To work in the garden and vegetable garden, a variety of equipment is used, designed to make the process of cultivating the soil and caring for plants as easy as possible. By choosing suitable, easy-to-use tools and devices for working on the site, you can significantly preserve your strength and health. Careful care of gardening equipment and proper storage will ensure long term his service.
Types of gardening equipment
Since ancient times, gardening tools have traditionally been used to care for plants; many of the devices are very familiar to us. In recent decades, according to modern demands, its range has expanded significantly, and a significant number of new tools and useful devices have appeared. With their help, you can simplify your daily work in the garden as much as possible. The use of properly selected tools will significantly reduce labor costs on site, avoid physical strain, scratched hands and other inconveniences.
The following types of gardening equipment are distinguished:
- for cultivation and manual tillage - loosening light soil and digging up heavy soil, as well as laying out beds and flower beds, planting plants, hilling, digging up root crops, unloading various bulk materials(sand, fertilizers, coal, earth). This type includes shovels, rippers, rakes, cultivators, pitchforks, as well as hoes, choppers, etc.;
- auxiliary tools- For gardening work in the form of grafting, pruning branches, forming crowns and hedges (secateurs, loppers, brush cutters, garden hacksaws);
- accompanying equipment in the form of wheelbarrows, buckets, planters, containers and scoops for seedlings, fruit collectors, a folding chair, a stepladder;
- mechanized – electric and petrol ( chain saws, seeders, mowers, cultivators, pumps);
- equipment for watering plants - watering cans, sprayers and sprinklers, garden hoses.
How to choose gardening tools
In specialized stores you can buy various gardening tools for working on the site. From the offered assortment you need to choose quality tools, allowing you to optimize certain types gardening work and at the same time minimize the associated load on the back, legs and shoulders. After reviewing the offered assortment, consider how often and for what purposes you will use this type of equipment, carefully read the characteristics of the product, as well as the instructions for its use from the manufacturer.
When selecting gardening equipment, it is necessary to take into account its compliance with the following requirements:
- ergonomic design, which subsequently manifests itself in ease of use. The selection criterion will primarily be your individual sensations when using the equipment - pick it up, try to evaluate how comfortable and easy it will be for you to use it, check the quality of the fastenings. Make sure that the tool handles are comfortable, of suitable length and thickness;
- reliability and durability - properly selected gardening tools made from wear-resistant materials will last for years. Pay attention to the quality of the metal of the cutting parts of the tool - ease of use and pressure during operation, obtaining even cuts, and the likelihood of rust appearing over time depend on it. Tool handles made of dense, high-quality wood are practically unbreakable and will not cause splinters on your hands. It is convenient to use tools with polypropylene-coated handles, as such handles do not slip and are easy to clean. Cuttings made of varnished wood, as well as plastic ones, can slip in the hands, significantly slowing down work on the site;
- safety of use - check the reliability of the handles with screws and rivets, the serviceability of the mechanisms;
- ratio of quality and price - over cheap equipment that breaks at the first significant load, you should prefer higher quality tools that will last for more than one season.
The choice of material from which the functional parts of hand tools that are in direct contact with the cultivated soil and plants are made depends on its purpose.
How to choose shovels
Several types of shovels are made (heavy, bayonet, universal garden, and also shovel).
Depending on the purpose, you can purchase the following types of shovels:
- for digging up a vegetable garden, a shovel with a blade made of high-quality steel is perfect - such a tool is inexpensive, but will last for several years, is not subject to corrosion, and can be sharpened well;
- the most durable and lightest, as well as the most expensive, are instruments with titanium blades;
- To remove snow on the site, shovels made of aluminum, plywood or plastic are used - these materials are much softer than steel. This type of equipment is not suitable for use during excavation work.
The optimal handle for a shovel is up to chest level; however, the wooden handle can later be adjusted in length by sawing off the excess.
How to choose a rake
On garden plot this tool used for the following purposes:
- for loosening the soil - a metal rake of small width, with hard, almost straight teeth, with a total length up to the gardener’s chest, is suitable. When choosing a suitable rake in the store, check whether the comb bends up or down when pressed with your hand - in this case, you should look for another model;
- for collecting large debris and weeds after weeding - in this case, you should give preference to a rake with long teeth and a comb with reinforced fastening. It is recommended to choose a model with a human height;
- suitable for collecting small debris and leaves fan rake made of steel or plastic with soft teeth. The height of this product may exceed the height of the gardener. Such products are used, among other things, for raking up mown grass and cleaning lawns from small debris.
How to choose choppers and hoes
These types of gardening tools are used to loosen the soil, remove weeds, and also hill up plants. In this case, hoes are convenient to use for loosening the soil between rows. As with shovels, the most durable are products made from titanium and alloys.
The optimal thickness of the hoe blade is 2-3 mm. For hilling and loosening, it is recommended to choose products that are as long as the gardener’s chest.
How to choose scythes and pitchforks
When choosing a scythe, pay attention to the quality of its blade - when struck with your hand, high-quality metal will produce a clear, ringing sound. Modern models with an ergonomic handle are comfortably curved and are also equipped with a length-adjustable stop handle.
Forks are used to cultivate the soil, load hay and compost materials, and dig up root crops. The following varieties are produced:
- for loosening the soil and removing weeds, models with fairly powerful teeth are used. Such forks are equipped with a durable thick handle of short length;
- To transfer grass, hay or compost, products with long teeth and a handle are used.
When purchasing, make sure that the teeth of the product are the same length and thickness, located at equal intervals. There should be no defects in the form of chips and cracks in the places where the teeth are welded.
How to choose buckets and watering cans
It is convenient to carry out manual watering on the site using a watering can with different nozzles. For transferring fertilizers, harvested, as well as for others economic needs use buckets. Typically, several varieties are used in the garden plot. similar products from various materials.
Please note that plastic buckets and watering cans are not recommended to be stored in direct sun rays. Galvanized products should not be left in contact with water and wet soil for a long time, as moisture deteriorates the zinc coating and causes rust.
How to choose pruners and loppers
When choosing pruners, pay special attention to the quality of the metal from which the cutting parts of the tool are made. Garden shears made of hardened steel are considered to be of the highest quality. famous manufacturers gardening tools(eg German, Finnish and Swedish). For removing dry branches from bushes, models with short handles and blades equipped with teeth are suitable. It is convenient to trim thick branches with pruners with long handles.
The lopper is a large scissor with long handles. This type of gardening tool is used for trimming small dry branches, as well as decorating the crowns of trees and shrubs. Choosing suitable model, take into account the quality of the material, as well as the diameter of the trimmed branches and knots.
How to choose garden knives and limb saws
They make saws for branches of various shapes and sizes, including small compact models. Lop saws equipped with telescopic handles, are useful for removing unnecessary branches in hard to reach places.
A garden knife is useful for grafting (it is convenient for making long and straight cuts), pruning branches and shoots, preparing cuttings. The ease of use of this tool, first of all, depends on the blade - it must be durable and sharp, made of high-quality metal.
Equipment care
So that garden tools last long years, it must be carefully looked after. Don’t forget about proper storage, because tools need care - periodic cleaning, sharpening and lubrication. Make it a rule after each use to thoroughly clean gardening tools from clods of earth and plant debris (bark, grass, manure and weeds) and dry them, and then place them in a dry, shaded place. Otherwise, the instrument will quickly deteriorate due to adhering contaminants, plant sap and soil moisture and will not last long.
Any light rust deposits that have appeared should be removed from the tool using a wire brush; a more resistant layer will need to be treated with special means to remove rust. After each use, the cutting parts of garden shears, knives and saws should be wiped with a cloth moistened with a disinfectant (for example, alcohol), blotted with a clean rag and dried thoroughly. Tool blades can be sharpened using whetstones or a whetstone.
To prevent corrosion from eating through the metal parts of the equipment, it must be periodically lubricated (using grease, lithol, vegetable or machine oil, as well as special lubricants that can be purchased in stores). Linseed oil is suitable for treating unvarnished metal parts of handles.
How to store gardening tools
Do not leave tools on the floor after work. outdoors. To place gardening and gardening equipment on the site, it is necessary to create certain conditions. It is necessary to allocate a dry and ventilated place for everyday storage of garden tools. Thus, it will be possible to protect it from the appearance of fungus and corrosion under the influence of moisture, as well as from overdrying of parts made of wood under the influence of sunlight and high temperature air. Proper storage of gardening equipment helps to maintain its working condition for many years.
Often shovels, hoes and rakes, as well as other equipment, are placed in a barn or garage, where some free space is allocated for these purposes. It should be noted that this is not enough for effective storage. Having cleaned and lubricated the equipment, it must be placed in a compartment specially equipped for these purposes (container, wooden box), where the above conditions may be met.
Storing equipment in winter
At the end of the gardening season, it is necessary to take care of where and how the relevant equipment will be stored until it is needed again next year.
How to prepare gardening tools for winter storage:
- All equipment used on the site must be thoroughly cleaned of soil and plant residues, and then wiped or washed and dried. Leave it for several hours in the sun or in a well-ventilated place until it dries completely - you need to get rid of moisture in various cracks and joints of the equipment;
- wooden handles and handles must be cleaned and sanded. To increase durability, it is recommended to coat them with varnish;
- then you need to apply lubricant to the metal parts. To store equipment, select a suitable well-ventilated and dry place; the tools must be placed there vertically, or hung on the wall on a special rack above the floor level - so as to protect them from moisture and subsequent corrosion. Do not place tools vertically on the edge, otherwise it will quickly become dull;
- sharp objects- various secateurs, garden shears, saws and hacksaws are placed in cases, wrapped in newspapers or parchment paper and stored closed. If there is no special cover, the saw teeth can be covered by putting a piece of garden hose on them with a pre-made longitudinal slot, and stored, wrapped in rags or in the sleeve of an old jacket. It is recommended to store garden shears in an open state, thanks to which the spring in them will remain tight longer.
Garden equipment (electric, gasoline and battery-powered equipment - cultivators, seeders, chain saws, etc.) should be stored after carefully reading the manufacturer's instructions in a dry and ventilated, securely locked area.
Equipment care in spring
With the onset of the new gardening season, all that remains is to get the equipment prepared in the fall out of the shed. During the winter, the wooden parts of the instruments may dry out a little, as a result of which the fastenings at the junctions with the wood weaken, and the instruments may become loose during operation.
You can achieve tight fastening of the cuttings of gardening tools as follows - place the tools in water for a day or two. Under the influence of moisture, the wooden parts will swell a little, as a result of which the play will go away. The same procedure can be done with carpentry tools that fly off the handles.
Work in the garden requires enormous physical effort, but it is not always possible to do it efficiently if you use the wrong tool.
Every gardener and gardener needs to know why exactly this or that tool is needed, and for
what kind of work it is intended for. Without knowing the gardening tools, you can mistakenly cause harm, so you need to become more familiar with the tools.
What are there gardening Tools Everyone who works on the land must know.
Now offered by stores great amount inventory. To figure it out
what exactly is necessary for full-fledged work, you should get acquainted with
necessary tools.
Gardening tools that no gardener or gardener can do without,
even an experienced one has several names.
Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to such a tool as a hand gardener.
- pruner
- garden knife
- garden scissors
- trimmer
- hedge trimmer or lopper
These are the most necessary equipment for working with plants. Without using them
high-quality plant care is simply impossible even in the most small area.
To understand what each tool is designed for, you need to learn more about its functions.
Saw
An indispensable tool for working with fruit and berry bushes and. It can be used to trim bush branches with a diameter of 3 cm or more.
There are 2 types of saws:
- saw - hacksaw - used to remove branches without causing damage
tree trunk and crown - bow saw - it is used to remove branches with a diameter of more than 8 cm.
Secateurs
It is used for cutting not too thick branches or woody shoots.
In addition, pruning shears can be used when harvesting with.
This is a convenient method and completely safe for the plant.
Secateurs are:
- Universal pruners - for trimming branches of bushes and trees.
- Shrub pruners - for removing bush branches.
- Each gardener chooses how to choose garden pruners at his own discretion.
Garden knife
Used when working with the barrel. They can delete everything that does not have its own
values in plant life
The knife happens:
- simple garden - it is used to remove unnecessary growth and tree branches
- grafting - cleans the wounds of the tree trunk.
Garden shears are used to trim bushes and remove unnecessary or
damaged branches on them. They can also be used for cutting grass,
hard-to-reach places where a trimmer cannot handle.
For example, under the bushes themselves, in such places it is convenient to trim the grass
scissors so as not to damage the crown of the bushes with another tool.
Scissors may vary in size and shape, but they have a variety of uses.
same.
Trimmer
Most necessary tool from all electrical equipment. He can handle it
jobs where a lawn mower can't handle. In addition, with its help, the infield
the site will always have an attractive and well-groomed appearance.
Loppers are used for pruning trees. There are 4 types of loppers:
- medium – tools are additionally equipped with a power drive,
for trimming excess branches - large – loppers are equipped with a drive for cutting very large branches
- flat – small loppers for trimming small branches
- contact with power drive - used for cutting any branches of medium
and small thickness, except for the largest
If you choose the right tool, you won’t have to remove branches from trees and bushes.
causing them no harm.
How to choose tools
The main task of gardening tools is to speed up work in the garden. Each personal plot is individual.
Therefore, different tools are needed. Based on the characteristics of the plantings, you need to select equipment. If there are more shrubs and trees in the garden, tools
it is necessary to select for working specifically with these crops. But we must not forget,
that all equipment in work should be convenient, this is of no small importance.
And in order for the garden tool to serve for a long time and faithfully personal plot,
It is necessary to purchase only high-quality tools.
Where to store garden tools
Storage of garden tools implies a room where they will be
keep all the tools until the next planting season.
The most optimal place– this is a closed ventilated outbuilding, with low temperature. But if there is no such building on the site yet, you can build it yourself
protective awning.
To make an awning yourself, it is best to use
synthetic material. It helps protect against precipitation and repels rodents in
cold period of time.
It is not recommended to store equipment in a room with high humidity. In this case
they may rust or be completely damaged. Moreover, after latest works
on site, all tools must be prepared for winter period. That is
clean off soil residues, sort out power tools, drain oil and gasoline.
Every gardener and gardener wants to improve and decorate his
the site was admired. This requires a lot of effort. But if it's right
choosing high-quality gardening tools, the work can only seem like a joy.
The most necessary gardening tools and equipment are on video:
When to trim fruit trees and how is that…
The dacha area is that separate world that often pushes us to inventions. And it’s understandable, because there is a huge amount of work that needs to be done quickly, efficiently, and without much investment. Therefore, today we are studying a cunning garden tool created with our own hands.
Our sheds are full of special country tools - shovels and pruning shears, scissors and brush cutters, hoes and axes, hacksaws and pitchforks, and what about the Fokina flat cutter... but there are also more abstruse and modern tools - an angle grinder, a drill, a chainsaw. But all this is definitely not enough to do everything necessary work. No, everything is real, but who wants to spend a lot of time clearing the garden of young growth, removing weeds from spring garden or do another, even more mundane job, if it is possible to quickly complete the task? Today we will give you something to think about, because making smart and modernized garden tools with your own hands is not difficult, but very useful. So, let's go in order and look at all the new products and older inventions, which, by the way, half of us have never heard of!
Convenient DIY gardening tools
This list was partly presented to us by summer residents we know, partly by you, the readers of the site, and a small part is our personal. Therefore, the site recommends taking a few minutes useful article, because it will really help save time and effort in the future.
Removing root growth
This can be done with a modernized shovel, which you see in the picture below. You can make a tool from scratch if you have a workbench, a vice, a grinder and sheet metal, but it is better to remake a ready-made shovel. Having received such a product - narrow and well sharpened at an angle, you just need to choose a strong handle, and you can safely go into the garden. The device easily cuts young growth even at a depth of several centimeters.
Cleaning and digging the garden
Most often, such equipment is needed if you are clearing old garden and are planning to make a garden bed in its place. The same thing can happen in place of a forest belt on the edge of a vegetable garden, which was removed to expand the fertile territory.
But in a garden or forest belt, trees are not completely removed, and many roots remain in the ground. Searching for them is very long and difficult, especially when it comes time to cultivate the land. At this time, you can use a toothed shovel, which you can also make yourself. Below you see what it is - an ordinary shovel, which is cut so that it working part It had several sharp teeth, the roots of which were cut very easily.
Working in the garden with a new hoe
Do you want to get a new hoe that will now make it very easy not only to remove weeds and make furrows in the soil for planting seeds, but also to loosen the soil? Then notice how easy it is to make something like this with just a piece of sheet metal, a piece of pipe, a grinder, a hammer and welding. Of course, this is the lot of real men who are capable of creating something like this, but women also have every right to take a look, because in the future they will definitely try to work with such a tool.
The blade, slightly curved inward, spherical and also slightly curved along the radius, is capable of overcoming many difficulties in the garden, and believe me, this is a much better helper than a standard chopper.
Homemade hoe for loosening the soil
When planting seeds in a flowerbed or in a garden, when working in a garden with young crops, or simply when loosening the soil around adult plants, we need a high-quality and convenient tool. It must meet many requirements, but at the same time be easy to use and small enough not to damage the roots or above-ground parts of the crops being grown. That's why experienced summer residents and a little thing was invented that many people have today.
This is a compact hoe made from improvised means, which is created from a small piece of board and a few nails. You only need to cut out a conveniently shaped handle from wood, and also drive 5-7 nails 6-10 cm long through it. Not perfect, but still an interesting piece of equipment that will be convenient in small flower beds.
Repairing a broken pruner
Intensive work in the garden sometimes leads to breakdowns of your favorite tool. And we are trying to do everything, just not to throw away the equipment we are used to and have long loved. Today our pruning shears broke while we were pruning trees, and therefore we are urgently repairing it, since we have neither the time nor the desire to go to the store for a new one.
We sharpen the pruning shears on a stone or machine, if available, and in place of a broken or simply torn spring, which represents the most frequent breakdowns pruning shears, install a piece of thick rubber. You can take thinner rubber, but fold it enough times to create a spring effect. We tape the rubber to the handles with wire, but always with the knots facing inward, so as not to get hurt or cause calluses. You can also use duct tape to prevent injury.
Device for cutting branches at high heights
This activity is not considered a problem for people with high stepladders or special professional pruners. But if there are none, let’s come to our senses and again invent a cunning garden tool that will make work easier and faster!
In front of you is an ordinary hacksaw, which is used to work with your hands. But today we will attach a long handle to it so that we can move the hacksaw as far away from ourselves as possible. You shouldn’t take a very long cutting, as it will be too hard to work, keeping the weight at a great distance, but a cutting of 1-1.5 m is just right. Believe me, this is quite enough to reach those branches that you cannot reach for cutting.
As shown in the picture, tie or wrap the hacksaw to the handle, more firmly, and start working. Do not rush, otherwise you may break the instrument.
Garden knife for removing tendrils and stems
How long do we have to suffer with tendrils and young stems, which are very difficult to cope with? The secateurs chew them up, and it is generally unrealistic to work with a large knife in conditions of dense growth. In general, it is necessary special tool, which will help in the beds and flower beds. And this can be a homemade knife for removing tendrils and stems.
Again, we invite you to pay attention to the graphics below, where we show you a similar knife. This is an ordinary piece of steel, which is installed in a wooden handle. The shape of the blade is oval and slightly pointed, and a hook-shaped cavity is carved on one side. It is here, inside, that all surfaces are sharpened. You just need to take a tendril, root or young stem of a plant with your left hand, and run a knife along it with your right. And even if there is no immediate effect, once in an acute cavity, any unnecessary material will be cut off.
Ring cutter for gardening
It’s difficult to call the next device a tool, because it’s just a ring with a small blade for working in the garden. But, although the ring is very small, it brings enough benefits. As you can see, this is a metal ring with a small sharp solder on it, bent inward. It is the inner part that is sharpened for cutting thin wire or rope.
When tying up plants in the garden, doing seedlings or vertical gardening, you often need to cut small pieces of rope or wire, but picking up a knife every time is not particularly convenient, and in the presence of numerous branches and leaves nearby, it is also dangerous. Then you can simply take the rope in your left hand, make a loop and throw it over the curved tip of the ring, and with your right hand make a movement to the side. Everything is quick and simple, and in your hands you already have a piece of rope of the required length.
Each of the tools we present or simply modernized items is an excellent device for working in a summer cottage. You can use such equipment in almost any conditions, and you can make it yourself.
Convenient tool for the garden (video)
7 country miracle helpers!
Unusual hand gardening tools (photos, videos, drawings)
The flat cutter is a great achievement of the agricultural mind. This is the first truly universal garden tool. Not just for cultivating the soil, but a tool for comprehensive cohabitation with the cultural plant community and soil.
Fokina flat cutter "Swift"
2. Ripper Miracle shovel "Plowman"
Ripper Miracle shovel "Plowman" drawings:
A shovel that can be classified as a ripper-cultivator - “Plowman”. The mechanism of the Plowman ripper is simple and quite effective. Raising the earth is carried out by the operation of a simple lever. The main load falls on the legs, which press the working forks into the ground. The lifting of the soil comes from the force of the hands, which relieves the back and is therefore attractive to the elderly and gardeners suffering from lower back pain. Two opposing forks, passing one through the other, loosen the soil without turning it around, providing a loosening depth of 15-20 cm.
Advantages of the design of a shovel or soil ripper or potato digger
1.Deep tillage without soil turnover.
2.High labor productivity.
3. Significant physical effort is not required when processing the formation.
4.Available in production.
Mode of application:
A special feature of cultivating the soil with a miracle shovel is that the garden is dug lengthwise rather than across. With both outstretched hands, we take the miracle shovel by the edges of the top bar, step on the platform (footboard) and it easily goes into the ground. With a slight movement (can be combined with light shaking), taking two steps back, we move the shovel from a vertical position to an almost horizontal one. After this, we take a step forward, pull the shovel back 30 cm, give the shovel a vertical position, drive it into the ground and repeat the cycles until the row ends. Then we proceed to processing the next row.
Materials: half-inch labor, round timber (or hexagon) with a diameter of 15 mm.
For ease of transportation, a collapsible design can be made.
Miracle shovel Prokopenko drawings:
Miracle forks allow you to dig up the ground without putting any strain on your back due to the unique rotary working method. Miracle Forks do not require bending or squatting. Efforts are applied only to the “steering wheel”. At the same time, digging productivity increases 3-4 times.
Miracle forks are adjustable in height over a wide range, which allows you to ideally adjust the tool to your height.
Miracle forks rotating photos:
Miracle shovel of the monk - Father Gennady photo and drawings:
The Miracle Cleaver is a tool for easily and safely chopping wood. You will be able to chop three times more firewood, spending the same time and the same effort as when working with a regular splitter. At the same time, even women and children will be able to chop wood, because the main work consists only of raising and lowering a weight weighing 3.3 kg.
One Miracle Cleaver replaces four tools: a cleaver, an axe, a hammer and a chisel. If you follow the instructions for use, the tool is absolutely safe.
The miracle cleaver allows you to chop even very thick logs. However, it does not require any special skills and is very easy to use.
Miracle cleaver photo:
6. Miracle potato hiller
The miracle hiller is designed for loosening the soil on potato beds and hilling up the sprouted potatoes.
Thanks to its optimally calculated design, the new invention contributes to high-quality processing soil (loosening and hilling) and proper formation of potato ridge
With the beginning spring season from the owners garden plots there are a lot of worries. The time has come to prepare the place for. Then, to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.
For all these processes, certain tools are used, which can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual and are the fruits of a creative approach experienced gardeners to difficult work on the ground. This publication will discuss how you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land.
Where to begin?
As you know, almost all gardening tools are made of metal, so the work will require a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them. If there are no problems with this issue, all that remains is to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey in self-production metal products, it makes sense to present a list of the minimum required:
- Usually, every business owner of a private house has this device, since there is always a lot of work on the site for which it is needed.
- Before starting welding of metal parts, it is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work, remove slag residues. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be hand-held or in the form of attachments to a drill or grinder.
- A slag hammer will be needed to remove slag deposits from the seam.
- Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used for branding seams and cutting out defective areas, as well as removing frozen metal splashes.
- Templates, ruler, square, scriber, tape measure, and others measuring instruments used in assembly operations, when preparing parts of a future structure for welding.
- A grinder with metal wheels will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
- Personal protection kit. This is a welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothing made of dense natural fabric can be used.
- Metal table or trestles for welding work.
Welding operations require some experience
Purchasing a machine does not make its owner a welder. You have to get your hands dirty, starting with the simplest seams. And you have to be prepared for the fact that things won’t work out right away; it requires patience, diligence, and perseverance. – read in a special publication on our portal.
If these tools are available and experience in welding work Enough, it’s time to choose a product to manufacture. You can find or develop a drawing of a future device yourself, to the best of your abilities.
Several useful ideas will be offered below. You can take them as a basis and, if desired, improve them according to your own understanding.
Non-standard garden tools available for self-production
Today, manufacturers of gardening tools, taking into account the hard work of cultivating the soil, have developed and offer consumers a considerable amount various devices, which not only dig up, but also loosen the ground, while simultaneously removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing beds and protect your back from excessive stress.
Some of these “small mechanization” tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.
Miracle shovel
This tool has appeared in commercials of garden tool manufacturers relatively recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for many years, having made it themselves. And, I must say, only praising its effectiveness and convenience.
They call this invention a “miracle pitchfork” and a ripper-cultivator. But no matter what name is assigned to it, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the gardener’s work.
There are several varieties of “miracle shovels”, differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems simpler to implement and convenient to use.
The first version of the “miracle shovel”
This is the most popular version of this tool. It can be found in finished form in specialized stores or at gardening equipment fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.
The shovel consists of the following parts:
- Working forks.
- Front stop.
- Back stop.
- Front support forks.
- Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
- Cutting.
- Lever mechanism.
The “Operation Manual” of this tool can be represented as follows:
- The ripper shovel is taken by the handle and placed on the soil on the front stop.
- Next, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back stop touches the ground.
- Then the handle of the shovel lowers down with a little force applied to itself. Thanks to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, lifting layers of soil.
- The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. In this case, the soil layer will not have to be turned over, so the fertile layer will not be disturbed.
- After this, the shovel is moved to the next area, and the operations are repeated.
This version of the shovel is designed to dig up soil to a maximum depth equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the length of the working fork teeth is 250 mm and their width is 430 mm.
This figure shows the “miracle shovel” in disassembled form, and the arrows also show the process of its assembly. This visual instructions will help you assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.
In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:
- To make working forks you will need:
— a piece of steel angle 20×20×4 mm or profile pipe 20×20 mm, length 460 mm;
- a piece of round pipe ½ inch, 220÷250 mm long - for making a tulika;
— two metal plates measuring 100×40×4 mm - for securing the torso to the frame of the front stop;
- six pieces of round steel (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better, a square rod with a cross-section of 8 × 8 mm, length 240 mm.
- To make a stop frame with front forks, you will need to prepare the following parts:
— for support so-called skis, you will need two pieces of round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm;
— the crossbar on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of profile pipe with a length of 460 mm and a cross-sectional size of 20×20 mm;
— the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;
— a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter to connect the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;
- for the supporting part you will need a corner with dimensions of 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;
- six pieces of round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.
- reliable wooden handle.
Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to mark and cut the parts for the shovel design using a grinder. It is best to prepare the elements of the working forks first, and then the support frame. Next, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work. |
 | First of all, the support frame and front forks are manufactured. In order to make forks, pipes are marked for holes, which should be located in increments of 65 mm. Blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks. |
 | Next, the “skis”, that is, the side parts of the support frame, are prepared for welding. One edge of these runners should have a slight bend for better sliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to maintain its given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, 100 mm away from one of the edges, thanks to which the pipe is given the necessary curvature. Then the cut is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a cut by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender. |
 | The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the “ears” - these are two metal plates measuring 300x20x4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinge connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, you can use steel angles with holes of the required size. |
 | The distance between the “ears” should be 100 mm. |
 | The next step is to weld a back stop, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner, to the profile pipe, on its other side, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees. |
 | Now that all the parts of the support frame are ready, they are assembled into general design welding It is very important to set the cross members of the frame at right angles to it, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough. |
 | Next, a tulle for the working forks is made; it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be attached. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as the master did in this case, or the diameter can be left the same along the entire length. Stepping back 50 mm from the top edge of the torso, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a hinge connection with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the angle later, after the fastening has been adjusted. |
 | When the vest is ready, it is tried on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwed onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end. |
 | If everything works as it should, all that remains is to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are located between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm. |
 | But before welding the teeth onto the angle, they need to be prepared, since they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. You can sharpen the ends of square rods in two ways - by forging or by carefully trimming and stripping. To forge, the metal will have to be heated red-hot, and then on an anvil, the ends will have to be shaped into the desired shape using a hammer. This is quite a skillful job; besides, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, all that remains is to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can contact a turner who will perform the work on a lathe. |
 | You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done using a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth onto the angle. The forks can also be bent with a hammer, placing their teeth on the template. |
 | As a result of the operations performed, a convenient, relatively light design is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away to the place of work upon completion. The rest of the time you won’t have to lift it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “skis” runners. |
The manufacturer of this “miracle shovel” honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up wet soil, and nothing worked. It turned out that the earth got stuck between the teeth, and the runners moved heavily along the wet ground.
Therefore, given its errors, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. This tool digs up dry soil perfectly, even if it is already “indecently” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, and the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug up bed, you still have to bend down.
Prices for miracle shovels
Miracle shovel
Second option
In addition to this model, there are other models of “miracle shovels”. For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.
This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle, which allows you to work without bending over. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking the teeth into the ground.
The disadvantage of this version of the “miracle shovel” is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, you additionally have to break up the clods and grind them using a rake.
Third option
Another design that can rather be called an improved fork for digging up soil. But it will also make the work easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the soil, the pedal helps to apply the correct force of the leg. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for applying force through a lever-handle pivotally connected to it. This makes it much easier to lift the soil being dug up.
A similar version of the tool can be purchased ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal, pivotally connected to a clamp attached to the handle.
The illustration above not only clearly shows the design of the pedal, but also gives the dimensions of all the parts needed to make the instrument.
Cultivator "Tornado"
The Tornado cultivator has become very popular among gardeners. It is actively advertised in television and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this instrument. That’s why it’s worth trying your hand at making it.
The “Tornado” design is simpler than the “miracle shovel” and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal handle-bar.
If you decide to make a cultivator yourself, in order to simplify the task, you can use industrially produced forks as a basis, which have a very affordable price. The main thing is to choose a high-quality version when purchasing this tool. Today there are many products on the market, the metal of which will not withstand alteration manipulations - steel does not stand up to any criticism.
“Tornado” can be made immediately to suit your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There can be many options here. For example, a collet clamp with a threaded coupling (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the retractable part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.
The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to manufacture this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you will need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.
As you can see in the drawings and photos, the “crab” teeth have arched bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in the finished product they form an oval or round internal space.
The teeth are welded so that they form a kind of square around the stand. That is, each of them is fixed not pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. To begin with, you can weld a square steel plate 5÷6 mm thick to the lower end of the post pipe, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” can withstand high loads during tool operation.
The “crab” teeth are narrowed, making them easy to drive into the soil and not deformed. But there is no special need to sharpen them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the “crab” can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.
“Tornado” is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.
The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the “crab” perpendicularly to the soil surface, then rotate the tool 60 degrees while simultaneously pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, since it should work as a convenient and effective lever.
Prices for the Tornado cultivator
Other tools for tillage Tornado
Models with different handle shapes are available, so even when making your own, you can choose best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend toward itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the handlebar from an old bicycle as a handle.
In a word, a skilled craftsman is quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for himself.
Fokina flat cutter
Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.
This simple tool can do the following:
- Effective removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact size and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between crop plants without causing damage to them.
- Loosening the beds can be done to different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
- Hilling up plants is also possible with this small tool.
- Forming beds and maintaining their shape throughout the season, and much more.
Find out about available options arrangement, from our new article on our portal.
To make a flat cutter, you will need a metal strip 3 mm thick, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of irregularities and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to secure the attachment to the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, using a blowtorch.
To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order in which they are performed is shown in the illustration below.
After the metal has cooled, the edges of the working area of the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.
After this, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be purchased quite inexpensively at a hardware store. The block must be well planed, chamfered, cleared of burrs, and sanded sandpaper. After this, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screw-type. Many owners limit themselves to fixing the flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.
The tool is very light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of any age.
Prices for Fokina flat cutter
Fokina flat cutter
Using a flat cutter is also easy. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the ground to a depth of 40 mm and installed parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin to loosen or trim the root system of weeds.
At correct production and operation, the plate of the flat cutter, sharpened on both sides, is capable of self-sharpening. If the tool does become dull, you can periodically sharpen it with a grinder or file.
Devices for planting potatoes
To facilitate planting of the most popular root crop, craftsmen invented special devices, so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized landing devices are also manufactured, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden and will greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.
The simplest marker device for quickly planting potatoes
Markers are intended for creating depressions in dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.
The presence of two or three conical heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So to plant enough large area gardening will require the joint actions of just two people. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws into them potato tubers and covers it with earth on top. The depressions themselves turn out to be small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.
The device itself has a very simple design that can easily be made at home. To do this, you will need a frame with a comfortable handle onto which conical markers are welded.
As a handle, you can use parts of the back of an old metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand pads on it.
For the lower horizontal crossbar, to which the cones will be attached by welding, it is suitable profile pipe, for example, 10x20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a reinforcement rod - it acts only as a guide in maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.
A more complex version of the planter
Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves simultaneously digging a hole and planting a tuber.
How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | To make this model of planter, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150÷200 mm. It is necessary to immediately mark the holes on both sides of the pipe. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled along them. |
 | To make drilling a pipe easier, it is laid on convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly serves as not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before you start drilling, the holes are marked using a core, which will also make drilling in a semicircular surface easier. The holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size. |
 | To make the conical split part of the planter, you will need a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick. On the sheet, markings are made of two triangles with a cut off top. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base should be 180 mm long and its cut should be 20 mm. The outlined parts must be carefully cut out using a grinder. |
 | The result is two triangles with a cut off top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be stationary, and the other will be able to move in a hinged mount. To make the stationary part, a smaller part is used. |
 | To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on an anvil, but if there is none, a piece of rail again comes to the rescue. Giving the required shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, which is used to knock out one or the other side of the part. |
 | While giving the parts the required bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe. |
 | The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will result in a cone half converging towards the center. In order to achieve this installation of the part, you will have to trim the edges at the bottom of it. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined. |
 | The part is cut along the marking lines using a grinder. |
 | This is the position the stationary part of the planter cone should be in, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible. |
 | Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is tried on and adjusted. |
 | However, more precise adjustments can be made only after the fixed part of the cone is attached to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe. |
 | The illustration clearly shows that the angles of the moving side of the cone fit onto the pipe. It is these that need to be gotten rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter. |
 | Before removing them, it is necessary to mark and then cut off the excess parts using a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the pipe wall, then the moving part should go around it, slightly facing it from the outside, since it will open. |
 | As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration. |
 | The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with the help of which the moving part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - “ears”, made of metal 2.5 ÷ 3 mm thick. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the walls of the pipe. |
 | To screw the “ears” to the pipe, bolts 8÷10 mm in diameter and 10÷15 mm in length are used. It is better to sharpen their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and a hole drilled in the “eye,” and are tightened on top of it with washers and nuts. |
 | The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving the mm shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded exactly on them. |
 | Now the upper side of the “ears” can be secured with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When securing them, you may have to adjust the closure of the two halves. |
 | Next comes the manufacturing and welding of the planter handles. This will require a ½ inch diameter pipe and the length should be comfortable to work with. One edge of the pipe is cut at an angle, since it will be attached to the planter body. You can also choose the tilt yourself, but in this case the position of the handle relative to the body is at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. |
 | The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it will be attracted to the pipe and open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35–40 degrees. |
 | If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite comfortable, its position can be adjusted. |
 | To do this, a cut is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and pulled closer to the planter body. Then the handle is boiled along the fold. |
 | The product is now being tested again. In this case, the technician discovered that the planter opened too wide, so it was necessary to include a limit bolt in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, so that the planted tuber or cup of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground. |
 | To do this, a nut is welded to the handle fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiting bolt is screwed. |
 | Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing this limiter in and out, you can adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth. |
 | A plate is welded to the back side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transmitting the force of the leg. Since the pedal will bear a fairly high load, the plate must be strengthened by welding a jib to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body. |
This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for similar devices, but they all work on the same principle.
Devices for manual harvesting of root crops
There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also “mechanisms” for its convenient and quick cleaning. Thus, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device grabs the soil not from one, but from both sides at once, easily bringing the tubers to the surface.
Digger has not too complex design, which you can easily assemble yourself. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary forks. In addition to them, to form the handles you will need two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm, a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720÷950 mm. And also - a metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for making the crossbar.
- Fork teeth.
- Crossbar.
- “Ears” welded to the forks.
- Bolt M10.
- Potato digger handles.
The production of the tool is carried out in the following order:
- Wooden cuttings are extracted from the pitchforks.
- Under the crowns, in the middle part of the forks, two “ears” with a diameter of 11÷12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that the crossbar fits freely between them.
- On the underside of the crossbar, along its short edges, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded. A hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass through them and the “ears” attached to the forks.
- Next, the tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put pieces of hose on the bent ends. This will prevent your hands from slipping while working.
- And finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork crowns.
That's it, the design is ready for work. The digging forks are moved to the open position and placed above the potato bush. Next, stepping on the crossbar, drive the forks into the ground. After this, the handles are moved apart, that is, the forks are brought closer to each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents upward. In this case, the teeth engage root system and bush tubers. The digger, along with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, the loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging up potatoes with such a homemade digger, the tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not shift.
It is not recommended to dig up potatoes using a digger (as well as a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticking soil.
* * * * * * *
As can be seen from what has been said, if the owner wishes and has the tools, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves quite a lot of money. And especially if the master’s “stash” contains many of the materials necessary for the work.
Examples shown of diversity homemade remedies“Small mechanization” of gardening work is certainly not limited. If desired, you can find other useful devices, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if anyone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.
In conclusion, here is an interesting video about another useful tool - a cultivator. Fire will be an excellent assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.
Video: Homemade manual cultivator for quick and effective weeding