Do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a plastic barrel. How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands - visual instructions and drawings. Making a concrete mixer - step by step guide

Building something with your own hands is an activity that not only benefits, but also raises self-esteem. Such work can not do without concrete solutions. It can take quite a long time to prepare them, especially when it comes to filling paths or playgrounds. Buying a large mortar mixer for your needs in some cases does not make sense. But a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel would be a great solution. It will save money and allow you to rationally use the components that are on the farm. What are the ways of manufacturing such a device and assembly schemes will be discussed in this article.

Why concrete mixer

When thinking about a concrete mixer for mortar, perhaps the question arises as to why complicate your life and not use a drill or a mixer. This is a pretty reasonable remark. But it is worth considering for what purposes these tools were originally developed. Drills are used to mix a small amount of low viscosity solution. With prolonged use, the rotor or stator windings will easily fail. The drill is suitable for drilling holes in metal, wood, plastic and concrete. This is her primary task.

A construction mixer can really help in solving the problem of preparing a solution. Although this tool was developed for these purposes, it is more suitable for working with adhesives and cement-sand mixtures of small and medium volumes. If the task is to prepare concrete filled with crushed stone or other stone, then both the blades themselves and the engine can be damaged. All this indicates the need for a more powerful product that can easily cope with the stated tasks.

Operating principle

The most common is the rotary concrete mixer for mortar, but in fact, this is not the only type. In total there are three mixing principles that are used in concrete mixers:

• independent or gravitational;
• exposure to vibration waves;
• mechanical.

The first type of solution mixing is the simplest and is rarely used in industry. It is somewhat reminiscent of throwing a solution with a shovel. But this happens inside the container. The capacity of the concrete mixer for mortar rotates perpendicular to the ground. Under the action of gravity, the concrete falls from the walls and is mixed. It will not work to prepare a large amount of solution in this way, because this is a rather laborious task.

The second method of preparing the solution is the highest quality. It implies the presence of an engine that creates vibration waves in the solution. The container itself, in which the components of the solution are located, does not move. Although such a concrete mixer for mortar provides an excellent result, but a good amount will go to pay for electricity. This happens due to the need for a very powerful motor. The mechanical mixing method is exactly the one used in most concrete mixers available. It combines the gravity method with mixing paddles.

What can be used

A homemade concrete mixer for preparing a mortar makes it possible to use various components that have long been gathering dust in the attic or backyard. Metal pipes or a corner are suitable for the frame. Large wheels from an old wheelbarrow will also be used in a concrete mixer. With your own hands, it is easy to assemble a concrete mixer for mortar from a plastic or metal barrel. The latter can be bought at a service station, where they store large volumes of oil. According to the drawing, it is also easy to assemble a concrete mixer from an aluminum can that is leaky or simply no longer used. Several options will be discussed below. The instructions and drawings provided are not meant to be used as a step-by-step guide to finding exactly the right components. They can serve as the basis for your own project.

A homemade mortar mixer has some advantages compared to a factory one:

• repairability and parts availability;
• ease of storage;
• comparatively lower cost;
• easy to design what you need according to your needs.

If the design of the concrete mixer for the mortar is assembled from improvised means, then there will be no search for components if something fails. To repair a concrete mixer for mortar, you do not have to hire specialists. What you have collected, you can serve without outside help. You may have to buy a tiny percentage of spare parts for a concrete mixer, which means that the costs will be low compared to a factory concrete mixer. It is possible to select the parameters of the concrete mixer for mortar for a specific own object.

Concrete mixer without engine

This is the easiest and most affordable option that almost any craftsman can build at home. This concrete mixer for mortar is perfect for those cases when an average amount of mortar is required, and also there is no electricity on the site. To assemble such a concrete mixer you will need:

• welding machine;
• inch pipe;
• marking tool;
• metal rod for the axis;
• Bulgarian;
• can of 40 liters;
• bearings.

The first step is to build a base or frame for the future concrete mixer. For these purposes, with the help of a grinder, six parts with a length of 1 m are cut off. Two isosceles triangles are assembled from them using a welding machine. In the upper corner, two metal couplings are welded between the slats. They are selected in such a diameter that 2 bearings can easily be inserted into them. The lower corners of the two triangles are connected by jumpers; in addition, two more jumpers can be installed between the triangles. Thus, a monolithic structure will be obtained, which will ensure the stability of the rotating can.

So that the mortar mixer does not require titanic efforts during its rotation, it is necessary to balance the can. For these purposes, you can use it to place it with a side wall on a thin wall and try to find the center of gravity at which it will not be outweighed to one side or the other. This point must be noted. Two holes are drilled in the walls. They should be located opposite each other. Their diameter should be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the reinforcement, which is used as an axis. Flanges can be used to fix the metal rod in the aluminum can. They also assemble themselves.

They will need two small pieces of pipe. Its inner diameter should be slightly larger than the axle diameter. Two small pieces of sheet metal are also needed. Pipe segments are welded to round pieces in the center. A hole is drilled in the rounds so that the reinforcement can pass through. Holes with a diameter of 4.8 mm are drilled around the entire perimeter of the round circle. They are necessary to fix the flange to the can. The rounds need to be given a slight bend so that they fit snugly against the can.

The process of assembling a concrete mixer is simple. The frame is ready. The bearings are inserted into their place in the couplings. At the end of the armature for the axis, a bend is made for the handle. Flanges with bolts or metal rivets are fixed on the can. The handle is threaded through the first bearing, the can and the second bearing. The can is placed in the middle. Branch pipes of flanges are welded to axial armature. To prevent the axle from slipping, stoppers are made on both sides of the bearings. A schematic drawing of the finished mortar mixer is shown in the illustration below.

The preparation of a solution in such a design does not cause any difficulties. It is enough to throw all the components for the solution without water and twist them several times. After that, the required amount of water is added to the solution and finishing kneading is done. Additionally, such a structure for kneading the solution can be equipped with wheels from an old tricycle to make it easier to transport. The work of such a concrete mixer can be evaluated on the video:

A similar design can be concrete mixers for mortar can be built from a barrel. We'll have to slightly increase the dimensions of the frame. The rod to hold the barrel should run diagonally. Sufficient displacement of the solution will then be provided to mix the constituents.

To make it easier to visualize how such a concrete mixer should look like for preparing a mixture, a diagram is placed below. There are no sizes on it, because they are selected individually. All components are clearly labeled to assist with assembly. In the drawing, the frame for the concrete mixer is slightly different. It is made in the form of rectangles with an additional jumper. Thanks to this solution, the device for preparing the mixture is more stable.

Driven Concrete Mixer

The concrete mixer should automate the process of preparing the mortar as much as possible. That is why it is worth thinking about how to assemble a structure using an electric drive. It is easy to make a concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel with your own hands. For work you will need:

• pipe for frame inch;
• engine from a washing machine or an old pump;
• barrel of 200 liters;
• power button;
• V-belt;
• pulleys from the washing machine large and small;
• pair of gears from the starter.

To prevent the solution from falling out of the barrel, its top must be reduced in diameter. To do this, every 15 cm an incision is made with a depth of 20 cm in the form of a small triangle. After that, all the blades are bent to the middle and boiled.

A large gear from the starter is applied to the bottom and the necessary markings are made so that it can then be fixed.

A frame is assembled from a pipe or corner that will hold the barrel. You can make it according to the sample, which is shown in the photo below. Two pieces of pipe are simply bent at an angle of 90 degrees and reinforced with a small piece of sheet metal. An axle for wheels is mounted on the lower part. On the crossbar, which will hold the barrel, a pulley is welded, on which a large gear will subsequently be fixed.

The next step is to install a pipe with bearings, into which a second pulley with a smaller gear is installed. The distance must be calculated in such a way that the gears of the concrete mixer easily interact with each other. Wheels can be used from an old car or even from a Zhiguli. But then you will additionally need hubs, which can be found at disassembly.

At the bottom of the frame, under the gears, the engine from the washing machine is fixed. An electrical connection is also made. A conventional 6 amp starter can be used as a switch.

Lastly, a barrel is mounted in its place, which completes the entire structure. In order to prevent the pulley from bending under weight during the preparation of the mixture, it is necessary to make two safety wheels that can support the barrel in front. The illustration shows how they can be fixed.

There is another way to make a concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel. In the design of such a unit for preparing the mixture, the unit will differ, due to which the rotation is transferred from the engine to the tank. To assemble this option for preparing a solution, you will need an unnecessary car disk. The entire inner part is cut out so that only the outer two with sides remain. A hub is attached to them, which ties them together. After that, the resulting assembly is attached to the barrel of the concrete mixer through rubber gaskets.

The rotation will be transmitted from the motor to the smaller pulley via the belt. A wheel with a smaller diameter is attached to a smaller pulley, and from it, through a belt, rotation goes to a fixed disk.

This is what the design looks like from the back. You can see how the main components are fixed on the concrete mixer. The motor and pulleys must be adjusted so that the belts run straight without twisting, as they will simply fly off.

As a starter for a concrete mixer, you can use a conventional machine, but it is more interesting to use a block from an old washing machine. It has a timer. Having launched it, you can safely do other preparatory work. As soon as the concrete mixer has stopped, the mortar can be used. It is important to remember that the solution cannot be left for a long time, because the water from it can evaporate or the solution itself will settle and lose its viscosity.

Note! Excellent concrete mixers are obtained from barrels that are made of stainless steel. They are more hardy and neutral to the components of the solution. True, the weight of such a concrete mixer will be slightly higher.

Try in the drawing for assembling the mortar mixer to provide for the possibility of changing the angle of the barrel. To do this, the base on which the tank will be held will need to be fixed on two bearings and made movable. Another option would be to implement a stop in front of the concrete mixer. With such a mechanism, it will be much easier to pour the mortar out of the concrete mixer and it will be easy to do it directly at the place where the mortar is used. A video of the work of a concrete mixer, which was made from a barrel with your own hands, can be viewed below:

Advice! A do-it-yourself concrete mixer for mortar can be made not only from a metal barrel, but also from a plastic barrel. To do this, you will need to pick up a barrel with thick walls, as well as strengthen the upper part with a metal plate, which will be fixed with a ring. The amount of mortar that can be prepared at once is relatively less than in a metal concrete mixer, but the efficiency is not inferior.

Conclusion

As you can see, if you show a little ingenuity and see what is in the bins, you can assemble your own concrete mixer with virtually no cost. A properly assembled concrete mixer will not yield to the factory one in performance. In addition, it will not need to be sent for warranty repair, and everything can be fixed independently.

The concrete mixer is an indispensable device for various construction works. The time when mortar for building was kneaded by hand is long gone. Today, in every industry, people are trying to facilitate and automate manual labor as much as possible.

So in construction, in order to facilitate the work, they came up with a device that would help prepare homogeneous concrete mixtures. The mixing process in these mechanisms is carried out by mechanical mixing of all the ingredients of the solution. Usually it is cement, water and sand.

For the construction of large facilities, an industrial machine is the only choice. And in the conditions of a small construction site (for example, in a private house), the best choice is a concrete mixer, made with your own hands, taking into account all the requirements.

What is she like?

In most cases, this design is a drum in which the mixing process takes place directly. It receives rotational energy with the help of a mechanical drive and an electric motor. The electric motor in this case is the heart of the machine. These builder's assistants differ in power, drum volume, and also in type of execution.

But not all devices have such a standard design. There is a forced type device. It looks a little different. Here, the container for the solution is made without the possibility of movement. It has blades of a special shape. Due to their movement, all components are mixed. Such a system does not allow mixing particularly large particles. The machine is designed for liquid mixtures only. But a do-it-yourself concrete mixer made according to this principle can mix even large fractions of the solution.

How to make a high quality solution?

In the preparation of the correct and high-quality mortar, there are several basic principles. Each of them must be observed, otherwise there is a risk that the solution will be spoiled and will not have the proper qualities.

So, what are the requirements for the process of mixing the ingredients of the solution? Firstly, the cooking time should not exceed 3 minutes in duration. If the process lasts longer, this will cause a centrifugation effect, which will significantly degrade the quality of the solution.

Secondly, when the mixing process is completed, to unload the mixture, lower the neck of the concrete mixer container. You don't need to turn it off.

How to make a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands?

If you need to build a house or utility room in a country house or country estate, then first of all you need to acquire such a device. Making a solution with your own hands is inconvenient, long and hard.

The need for this useful machine is especially felt in the private sector. After all, sometimes there is a need for a small construction, constantly something needs to be reconstructed or rebuilt. Even to fill a garden path or make a foundation for a gazebo in a garden, you need a solution.

A do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a good way to save money, since the unit is rarely needed, and the price for factory and industrial models is quite high. And there is no point in buying it for a couple of times. In addition, doing something with your own hands is exciting and interesting.

Choosing a capacity

To build our car, first of all, you need to choose a container. In this case, the required volume must be taken into account. You can find an old metal or plastic barrel on the site, a 200-liter barrel is enough.

Base

This design has a fairly solid size, so you need to provide a sufficient base for it. The manufacture of this element must be approached thoroughly.

Wood is used to create the base. A beam with a cross section of 10-15 cm will do. We will connect the frame with a “thorn” connection. First you need to process all the joints with glue and self-tapping screws. Such a home-made concrete mixer, made with your own hands, will be able to withstand the load.

The base, made of metal, of course, has great reliability. But if the device will not be used frequently, it is not practical. And from this, the design will only weigh more. A channel or corner is suitable as materials for a metal frame. You can assemble by welding, bolting.

On the base, it should be possible to mount the drive, as well as a tilt system and a counterweight, with which the solution will be unloaded. Also, don't forget about the controls.

Motor selection

A do-it-yourself concrete mixer, in our case, will be powered by an electric motor. Any single-phase motor is perfect for this. The rotational speed should be no more than 40 revolutions.

There are people who successfully use engines from old washing machines for these purposes. The design of these motors allows them to work for a very long time, and there will be no risk of overheating, overloading or anything else. These units have good torque, so you need to provide a gearbox system. To do this, you can use a belt drive with pulleys of various diameters.

How to make a concrete mixer from a barrel with your own hands?

Since the design is based on an ordinary barrel, any metal barrel of 200 liters will do. Be sure to clean the barrel well after work. If the container is not cleaned, then sooner or later pieces of a dried solution will form inside. This will make it difficult to unload the finished solution from the barrel. So the device will not be able to serve for a long time.

Manual drive

How to make a manual concrete mixer with your own hands? In order for the solution to mix, it is necessary that our barrel can freely rotate around its axis.

For more convenient loading and unloading in the barrel, you need to equip the door. To do this, on the side of the container you need to make a cutout. The door can be fastened with hinges. You also need to provide a latch and a seal.

To organize a manual drive, you can make holes in the center of the barrel on both sides for a small diameter pipe. It will act as an engine. How to fix the pipe? Welding can be used, flanges and bolting can be used.

To improve the quality of mixing the ingredients, metal strips can be welded onto the walls from the inside of the barrel. This will turn out the blades that are in the design of industrial mixers.

bed

A do-it-yourself concrete mixer made from a barrel will have a lot of weight when loaded. The frame for it must be strong enough and stable. In addition, the barrel must rotate.

The material can be wood or metal. Everything will do: profile, corners, timber. This design provides 2 tripods on both sides. The tripods are fastened together longitudinally. The height of these supports should be such that it is convenient to work with the machine. It should be noted that such a structure will move around the site. To make it easier to work with it, suitable bearings can be pressed into the flanges.

forced agitator

We learned how to make a concrete mixer with our own hands. And now we will see how to assemble a forced-type agitator. Making a device is by no means as difficult as it seems.

Such a device has some design features. Here the whole barrel does not rotate, but a shaft with blades rotates inside it. There are designs with a horizontal shaft or vertical.

A self-constructed forced concrete mixer may be slightly inferior to industrial products, but it will cost much less.

First we need a barrel. For a horizontal design, a special trough may be needed. In the end part of the barrel you need to make a hole. Then a shaft is inserted into it, on which the bearing is pressed. The lower part of the barrel must have a door for unloading the solution.

The shaft can be made either from pipes or fittings. The blades can be welded to the shaft. They are easily made from sheet metal.

Many do-it-yourself concrete mixers, the drawings of which, if desired, are easy to find, are equipped with motors with a power of 2.2 kW or more as an electric motor. And in order to ensure that the shaft speed does not exceed 48, gearboxes are used. You can use a belt drive, you can chain from an old mountain bike.

Can you imagine a construction site without even a small concrete mixer? Without such a unit, the preparation of a good cement mortar becomes almost impossible. When it becomes necessary to build a small structure or just “pat up” something, concreting becomes a popular task. Here is just a short list of situations in which this tool cannot be dispensed with: pouring garden paths, arranging the foundation for a gazebo, installing a fence, and so on. In a word, concrete is needed everywhere - the difference is only in the scale of the event. For domestic needs, it is pointless to buy an industrial apparatus - the purchase will cost you prohibitively expensive. An alternative solution would be a do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer. Thanks to this article, you will learn how to make it yourself from improvised materials.

Four principles of concrete mixing

Homemade concrete mixer

In fact, you can prepare your own solution without special tools. Many even like to work “according to the old method”. But how much can you do this way? You can still create a dry mix for construction using a conventional drill or mixer. But when it comes to sand and cement, they are powerless.

The simplest and most common mixing principle is called forced mixing. All components are kneaded in a container that is stationary. For this, a mechanical drive is usually used. The working drum can be positioned vertically or horizontally.

Drawing of a horizontal concrete mixer

Despite the fact that even a small forced-action concrete mixer can be very effective, it also has its drawbacks:

• There are "dead zones" in the tank. This is especially true of the space near the walls.
• The complexity of the design. The pivot points must be hermetically sealed against the action of the solution, which can be aggressive.
• It is practically impossible to prepare a solution in such a unit, which includes medium and large filler.

The second principle is called gravitational. In this case, all components are mixed due to gravity. In industry, this method is rarely used, as it requires a lot of time and effort. Barrels that are made of metal are most often used as containers. How they are made, how to make a stand, will be described below.

Most modern concrete mixers use a combined principle that combines the first two methods. They have the following benefits:

• Strict sealing is not required. The drum is open at the top, there is no need for rotation nodes, since any contact with the solution is excluded.
• Parts wear out much less often.
• Simplicity and reliability of operation.
• There are no restrictions on the composition of the solution either - it can be gravel, expanded clay, gravel, and so on.

The fourth mixing principle is called vibrational. Recently, some craftsmen have been mixing the solution using vibration. If we talk about large-scale volumes, the results can be the most stunning. Usually, the vibratory mixing principle is used when it is necessary to produce an accurate reinforced concrete structure with good performance.

Under normal conditions, the gearbox and drive are replaced by the most powerful hammer drill (permissible minimum 1.3 kW). Its vibrational action must be independent. It is not necessary to press the cartridge.

Concrete mixer gearbox photo

In general, vibratory mixing allows you to create an almost perfect concrete mix. However, for the preparation of a "heavy" solution, it is also not optimal.

Concrete mixer from a milk can (flask)

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a milk can

It should be understood that not every suburban area has access to electricity. Therefore, it would be quite logical to make a hand-made type and a small volume. A do-it-yourself milk flask concrete mixer is a very simple and straightforward option. You will need the can itself, pipe cuttings, or any other similarly shaped scrap metal. It can be done in 2-3 hours, the main range of work falls on the cooking of the frame.

• Taking a round pipe, bend the handle as shown in the figure. Weld water couplings at the top. Their diameter inside must exceed the diameter of the pipe that is used for the handle.
• Pass the tube through the flask, making holes, and then weld it to the body.
• It is extremely important to find the center of gravity of the concrete mixer with your own hands in order to turn it easily. To simplify the design, you can do without the use of a coupling. Cut arcuate notches in the frame and lay the axle on them.

The unit, although simple, is not the most reliable. Therefore, for manufacturing it is better to use some other drawings.

big barrel

Concrete mixer from a large barrel 200 liters

A more practical option is a concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel. Why exactly two hundred liters? This volume is considered to be optimal for mixing concrete at a time. The plastic option is swept aside immediately - such barrels will not serve you for a long time.

A homemade concrete mixer from a barrel is made as follows:

• Preparing a barrel that has a lid and a bottom. If the cover is missing, it is welded separately. Didn't find a container? You can make it yourself. The homemade version is in no way inferior to the factory barrel. You will need dense sheets of metal with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm, rollers, an efficient welding apparatus and a wooden hammer.
• We attach flanges on which there are bearings to the lid and bottom. On the side we cut out the hatch, where the components of the solution will be backfilled. A little trick - for a concrete mixer from a barrel, such a hole should be made closer to the end, which will be lower during the scrolling process.
• Knowing how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands is half the battle. It is equally important to establish proper mixing of the solution. To do this, the blades must be welded to the walls inside (angle from 30 to 40 degrees). Such an angle is extremely important so that the contents are “pushed” out during the mixing process. In principle, you can also fix the blades on the shaft.

How do professionals make the base for a concrete mixer?

Naturally, a do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer must have a stable base. This is necessary so that the structure does not begin to roll over during mixing. With a small load of a skeleton from a wooden bar, it will be quite enough (section 10 by 10 or 15 by 15 cm). Optimal connection options: “in a thorn” or “in half a tree”. They are necessary so that the structure does not receive damage from vibration. When the assembly is completed, all joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Need a stronger, more durable unit? Then a frame made of a metal corner will definitely suit you. Not everyone has a welding machine, but you can fix it with rivets or bolts.

If necessary, wheels are screwed to the base. Such a device of a concrete mixer will allow you not only to turn it over, but also to move it.

As for engines, a do-it-yourself barrel concrete mixer can be equipped with a motor from a scooter or car. A concrete mixer from a washing machine would also be a good option. The advantage of this option is that it is designed for long-term operation and can last for several years.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands video

Below you can get acquainted with the photo drawings that allow you to do everything yourself:

Drawing of a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel

How fast should concrete be mixed?

We will not consider in detail the process of mixing concrete - this is the topic of a separate article. We only note the fact that the moment of torsion plays an important role.

That's why the "washer" gearbox is better than a conventional motor from a scooter or car. It can withstand almost any load and can operate at low speeds. 25 full cycles (revolutions) per minute is sufficient.

To provide such a quantity, the gearbox may have a different scheme. The simplest, typical option is when the gearbox is made of a belt and a pulley. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer with a motor from a moped is characterized by mobility. The gearbox is convenient and compact, it does not need electricity to operate. Even if you have a large territory, the made device moves through it without any worries and hassle.

The gearbox in this case must be chain, otherwise the design will not function well.

Instruction. We told you about what the manufacturing scheme should be. Follow it carefully to get the desired result. Any deviations in work can lead to the fact that even a home-made concrete mixer from an old washing machine will turn out to be of poor quality.

Frame. Don't even try to weld a metal frame to cast iron. You will significantly complicate your hard work.

Do not overload the structure with excess weight. If you plan to mix a small amount of concrete, you definitely do not need a 300-liter barrel.

Absolutely anyone can save a substantial amount of money if they know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands - photos and videos are attached to the instructions. You will need a minimum of building materials, tools, a little care and resourcefulness. And one last piece of advice. If there is such an opportunity, it is desirable to involve one more (and preferably two) people in the work. Some steps need to be done at the same time, and doing it alone is not very convenient.

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel video

It is difficult even to imagine any building without technological processes using cement mortars. And for the owners of their own country house, with their constant state of “permanent” repair and landscaping, concreting is generally a very popular operation - either you need to fill in the garden paths, or the foundation for the gazebo, or renew the blind area, or put up a fence ... In a word, literally on every step requires the manufacture of concrete - the difference is only in the scale of the event.

Many individual builders prefer not to bother with self-mixing of the mortar - this can be avoided if there is a concrete goods factory nearby or another company that provides services for the manufacture of concrete and its delivery to the place of work. But, firstly, it costs a lot of money. Secondly, not everywhere such an opportunity is present. And, thirdly, it does not always make sense to use such services for reasons of a small scale construction or repair task - it will be either simply ridiculous or extremely unprofitable. It’s easier to make the right amount of solution yourself. This, of course, can be done manually, but it is better to purchase (rent) a concrete mixer or show yourself a real owner: for the future, make yourself a concrete mixer with your own hands.

The article will discuss several homemade models concrete mixers - from the simplest to those that already differ little from the samples presented in stores.

Brief excursion - what are concrete mixers

By and large, you can cook without any equipment at all. Some masters even like to work in the “old fashioned way” mixing cement nt with sand and other components (if necessary), and then gradually adding the right amount of water. For this, large containers with low sides are used, factory-made or even home-made, knocked together from boards and sheathed with thin metal.

Mixing by hand - how much time do you have?

Some people prefer to do without containers altogether, by preparing the solution simply on a prepared flat area. However, in any case, the procedure of mixing with a shovel or hoe, first dry components, and then with water, is a very laborious process that takes a lot of effort even at the preliminary stage, before concreting. And if the work is planned on a fairly large scale, then this approach will not justify itself.

Prices for concrete mixers Whirlwind

concrete mixer Whirlwind

Construction mixers or drill attachments - they will go more for dry mortars or composite polymer materials. Sand with cement for them is already a rather difficult “test”, and if there is still a need to add gravel, gravel or expanded clay of a large fraction, then the mixer or drill can be safely put aside: not only can you not achieve a high-quality, homogeneous batch, but also and there is a high risk of overheating the gearbox or the electric drive of the device.

Concrete mixers (concrete mixers) cope with this task, which differ not only in size, capacity and drive power, but also in the principle of their operation.

Forced mixing principle

Forced principle - the mixing of the components of the solution is carried out in a fixed container. It is carried out due to circular movements of the shaft with blades connected to a mechanical drive. (Working with a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle can also be safely attributed to the forced kneading principle).

The layout of the installation may be different. So, the working drum can be a vertically located cylinder of small height, in which blades-blades rotate on a vertical axis (as in the figure above).

Another option is when the container itself is located horizontally, and the shaft with blades is also oriented in a horizontal plane. Below is a schematic diagram of such a concrete mixer - who knows, perhaps someone will use it as a prototype for self-production.

In the drawing, the numbers indicate:

1 – drum body, which solution is mixed.

2 - a frame on which all units of the unit are mounted.

3 - Electric drive. In this case, with such dimensions of the mixer, the power of the order of 5 ÷ 6 kW will be optimal.

4 – control and management elements: toggle switches, indicator lamps.

5 - Lower hatch (shutter) - for unloading the finished solution into a container substituted from below.

6 - lever to open the shutter.

7 - safety grill installed during kneading.

8 - a gearbox for transmitting rotation from an electric drive to a working shaft.

9 - Protective casing of the belt drive.

10 - safety clutch.

11 - a working shaft with blades installed on it for mixing the solution.

The unloading of the finished solution can also be organized according to a different principle - the working drum is mounted on the frame not rigidly, but pivotally. When mixing concrete, it is locked in working position. And in order to extract the finished solution, the container removed from the stopper, and with the help of a special lever it rotates in the suspension trunnions. The solution is unloaded into the substituted container through the top loading hatch.

Another scheme is somewhat simpler, with a lever for capsizing the container

Forced-action concrete mixers achieve very high levels of mortar homogeneity. They are actively used in industrial conditions, in construction, in private practice. However, they are not without significant drawbacks:

• In the working tank, it is often impossible to avoid the creation of "dead zones" - along the walls, especially in the corners. It is not easy to fit the blades with a minimum clearance to the inner walls of the cylinder, especially since under such conditions there is a constant increased wear of rubbing parts.
• Structural complexity - reliable hermetic protection of rotation units (bearing blocks) on the working shaft from the aggressive effects of cement mortar is necessary.
• It is almost impossible to prepare a solution with a filler of medium or large fraction in such a concrete mixer. But on the other hand, for plastering and finishing works, using ready-made building mixtures, this the most optimal option.

Gravity mixing

The gravitational principle of mixing - the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of their own gravity. A good example - put two different products in a glass jar, for example, two types of cereals, close the lid and start rotating - mixing will begin.

It is clear that such an approach in its "pure" form does not provide high-quality preparation of the solution, or it will take too much time to achieve an acceptable consistency. In industrial conditions, this method is not used, but for domestic needs, a small simple concrete mixer can be made.

The drawing shows a can - it is convenient in terms of tightly closing the lid. But, in principle, almost any container can be used, if the owner thinks well about the issue of its reliable closure while mixing the solution.

The axis of rotation can be fixed outside the container - in this case, it is not necessary to ensure the sealing of the assembly when it passes through the wall. But still, it is better to make it through - such an artificial obstacle during gravitational mixing of the solution will somewhat increase its quality.

On the Internet you can find many interesting solutions for the manufacture of such simple concrete mixers from improvised means. Very often old iron barrels are used. To make a stand - probably, not a single good home craftsman will have any special difficulties.

The most difficult thing, probably, again, is to think over the issue of a tightly fitting hatch, which, when open, will allow loading the components of the mixture and pouring water, and when closed, with stirring, will not allow the liquid solution to flow out. Approaches here can be different, but most often they use a door on welded hinges, the opening for which is sealed with rubber around the perimeter.

Some creative masters complicate the design somewhat in order to improve the quality of concrete mixing. So, for example, to increase the amplitude of differences in height, the barrel can be placed not along the “correct” axis of the cylinder, but diagonally.

Of course, it is somewhat more difficult to rotate such a concrete mixer, but on the other hand, the uniformity of mixing the solution will be achieved faster.

Combined principle

So, it was mentioned above that the gravitational principle of mixing in its “pure form” does not differ in productivity and high quality of the batch. Surely there will be objections - after all, it is believed, and many sources state that most of the usual concrete mixers with an angled rotating drum use the gravitational principle. One can agree with this, but only by making one very important remark.

In such mixing devices, the blades are necessarily rigidly fixed on the inner surface of the working drum. Their configuration and size are thought out by the designers. During rotation, these blades move relative to the solution tending downward under its own weight. Thus, in this case it would be more appropriate to talk about the combination of two principles - both gravitational and forced. And indeed, this is how the vast majority of cooking devices are arranged.

There are several advantages right away:

• No sealing is required, neither the drum itself (it is constantly open at the top), nor the rotation unit (since no contact with the solution is expected here).
• Part wear is much less.
• Such concrete mixers are simple and reliable in operation, easy to maintain.
• There are practically no restrictions on the component composition of the solution - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, etc. can be used.

The manufacture of a concrete mixer of this type will be discussed in more detail.

By the way, let's return for a minute again to those simple concrete mixer-barrels, which were mentioned above. If you show a little ingenuity, then they are also very easy to upgrade, dramatically improving both their productivity and the quality of the mixed solution. To do this, it is enough to triple the blades or some other artificial obstacles on their inner surface.

One of the options is shown in the diagram. In this case, a comb was used, which is easy to weld from a corner and trim a reinforcing bar. Two such combs will immediately transfer the concrete mixer from the category of gravity to the “family” of more advanced, combined ones.

Vibratory mixing of mortar components

Not so often, but still, some enthusiasts try to apply the principle of mixing the concrete solution using vibration. In industrial conditions, such installations give excellent results, they are used for the manufacture of highly precise reinforced concrete parts with the highest performance characteristics.

And at home, the craftsmen try to use a powerful one as a drive (the main thing is that its vibrational action is independent, it does not require pressing the cartridge against an obstacle).

It turns out something like this scheme:

1 - the body of the container in which the components of the solution are mixed. Preference is given to round, not too large in radius, but high tubs (barrels).

2 - a bracket is rigidly attached to the body, in which the vibro-impulse generator is located, in our case - a perforator (pos. 3).

The power of the perforator should be at least 1.3 - 1.5 kW. Even this will not give a guarantee of success, and with less drive force, it is not worth trying.

A long rod (pos. 4) is inserted into the perforator chuck, which is connected to a vibrator (pos. 6). This rod must be of such length that the disk vibrator is approximately in the center of the prepared solution layer height (pos. 5).

It seems that everything is simple, but far from always such a scheme shows good results. Mistakes, most often, lie in the neglect of seemingly small nuances:

• A flat vibrator simply will not work. A shape is needed that will propagate vibrations in a dense medium from a central point almost spherically to the periphery. It should be something spindle-shaped, like two plates connected together with the bottoms out. In principle, this is one of the solutions - two metal plates mounted on an axis.
• The vibrator diameter depends on the drive power. In calculations, one can proceed from their approximate proportions: 150 ÷ ​​200 mm per 1 kW of puncher power. So, if we take a 1.5 kW puncher, then we prepare "plates" from 225 to 300 mm in diameter.
• The diameter of the cylinder itself should be such that from the outer edge of the vibrator, placed exactly in the center, to the container wall there is a distance approximately equal to the radius of the plate.
• To create vibration waves that can cope with the mixing of the cement-sand mixture, the level of the solution above and below the vibrator must necessarily be approximately equal to the diameter of the "plates".

Vibratory kneading of concrete mixes gives excellent quality of a solution. The process is very easily monitored visually - from active stirring, movement, bubbling - to a flat, rippling surface (ready-made solution). But, you must admit that for this you need to observe a lot of specific “whims”. And yet - "heavy" solutions with gravel or gravel in this way are also problematic to prepare. So this method does not find wide application among private traders - it is easier to make a concrete mixer according to the "classical" scheme.

Independent production of a "classic" concrete mixer

It is necessary to immediately warn "hot heads" - not everyone can take on the manufacture of such a concrete mixer. Although in many articles there is a “bravura motive” that it is both easier and cheaper than buying a ready-made one, you should not believe it.

- Firstly, you should not start such work if the owner knows about the art of welding only by hearsay or does it in this field.

- Secondly, the work will be profitable if most of the components for the manufacture of concrete mixers can be found among unnecessary things in their own household, from neighbors or even in a landfill.

- Thirdly, the existing experience in design, production of plumbing, welding, electrical work and the available inexpensive or generally free materials should be multiplied by the expressed desire to make a concrete mixer on their own. There is a fairly large category of people who are eager to try to do everything with their own hands - this is a task just for them. If you start work without fulfilling such conditions, simply cherishing the ephemeral hope of saving something, then it’s better not to start. Time and materials will be wasted, and it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase a small and inexpensive concrete mixer - fortunately, the choice is quite large.

The general scheme of concrete mixers is approximately the same

If we consider almost any of these concrete mixers, then three main structural units are always clearly distinguished:

• The container itself (badya), in which the solution is mixed, with all the additional mixing devices in it.
• Frame (frame, frame), which serves to accommodate the mixing tub, electric or manual drive, controls and, if necessary, means of movement. The frame must provide a movable hinged fastening of the container, the degree of its freedom both around its own axis and relative to the horizon with different angles of inclination. The structure itself may be stationary, or it may be wheeled for movement around the construction site.
• The drive is a mechanism that ensures the rotation of the mixer tank around its axis. In most cases, an electric drive is used. For small concrete mixers, a manual drive may be sufficient. It is possible (infrequently) to meet options for installing internal combustion engines (gasoline or diesel) - then the concrete mixer will not be dependent on the power source. Any drive transmits torque with the number of revolutions necessary for the kneading technology through the gearbox (there are no restrictions - the craftsmen use any type of gear - gear, belt, worm, etc.).

Now consider the manufacture of all these nodes separately.

mixing tub

In the manufacture of a mixing tank, it is assumed that during operation it is usually filled to a maximum of 30 - 40% of its total volume. Usually these tubs are made with a volume of 100 to 200 liters. If these limits are exceeded, it will be difficult to independently create a reliable stable frame and supply a home-made concrete mixer with such a powerful drive. With small tank volumes, both assembly and operation of the concrete mixer often become simply unprofitable.

Prices for concrete mixers Enkor

concrete mixer Enkor

The easiest way, of course, is to find a ready-made container that is suitable in terms of volume and dimensions as the main mixer. Immediately asks for se the same metal barrel.

The easiest approach is again a metal barrel

This option is quite possible, however, for a good concrete mixer, the cylindrical shape of the tub is not optimal. A lot of unmixed solution may remain in the corners around the bottom, and splashing out of the solution from above during stirring is not ruled out.

Making a smooth transition to the walls is a very difficult task, but probably any master can give the barrel a pear-shaped shape. Triangular cutouts are made from above, and then the remaining “petals” are welded so that a uniform narrowing is obtained.

Improved barrel - made narrower in the upper part

An interesting solution was found by a craftsman who decided to adapt a plastic barrel. And why not? Smooth curves of the form - what is required for the capacity of the concrete mixer. It is quite possible to attach the blades to its inner surface, and from the outside below - an axis with a rotation transmission mechanism not by welding, but by screw connections. But what a huge gain in terms of the mass of the device itself!

The original approach - a plastic barrel

As a result, the designer of this model even managed not with a steel frame, but with a mobile wooden base - a cart on wheels.

The height of a standard barrel for use as a concrete mixer tank is still too big, complicating the alignment of the entire unit. Please note that in such cases, support rollers are usually used for stabilization - a high tub, as it were, rolls along them, resting on its upper part.

If there is no suitable container, but sheet metal with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm is available, then you can try your hand at making the container yourself, giving it all the necessary shapes.

In order not to be unfounded, for those ownerswho consider themselves a master in welding, you can offer an interesting drawing for the manufacture of a "classic" concrete mixer with a drop-shaped bucket.

The overall dimensions of the container, without the connection unit with the reducer - 400 ÷ 500 mm. It would seem - a little, compactly, but even only in the cylindrical part about 30 liters of mortar are placed - a completely acceptable indicator for a household concrete mixer.

1 - automotive wheel hub. You can make this part yourself, but it’s still easier to use the finished one.

2 - the bottom of the tub. It is cut from a steel sheet, preferably 5 mm thick. In the figure below, this position is shown separately in an enlarged view. Holes (8 PCS, with a diameter of 6.5 mm) must exactly match the holes on the hub (pos. 1 ).

3 - the cylindrical part of the tub (shell) is welded from a steel strip bent into a ring, 2 mm thick, 150 × 1580 mm in size. All welds during the assembly of the tub are made solid, sealed. It is advisable to reinforce the shell from above with a metal bandage ( tape).

4 - the conical part of the tub is welded from four identical parts. Their dimensions, including the radii of curvature in the upper and lower parts, are shown in the figure.

5 - along the upper edge, the edge of the tub flares outward, and on circle, a steel bar with a diameter of 10 mm is welded (well shown in the diagram - node BUT ).

6 - “blades” are welded inside the tub - solution dividers. In this case, the structure shown in the diagram, made of a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 16 mm, will be quite enough. Such dividers are made in 3 pairs and welded evenly around the circumference, through 120 °. By the way, they should give the tub additional strength. Each pair has one straight divider coming from the bottom in the neck, and one curved at a right angle.

bottom knot ( B), which includes, among other things, the already mentioned hub and bottom, is better shown in a separate, enlarged drawing.

7 - bolts connecting the hub to the bottom. The nuts are on the outside. Between the parts there is a rubber gasket at least 2 ÷ 3 mm (pos. 11).

8 – a screw with a washer that secures the hub to the gearbox output shaft (pos. 9 ). A key prevents the hub from turning on the shaft (pos. 10 ).

Lower connection block ( B) is prepared, tried on, but mounted only after the frame is assembled and the drive and gearbox are installed on it. In principle, this will be one of the final operations - on the node already mounted to the gearbox B will "sit down" on the screws of the concrete mixing tank.

All welds must be free of scale and carefully checked to ensure that full impermeability tubs.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a bucketwelded from a steel sheet

concrete mixer frame

In the manufacture of frames or carts for concrete mixers, the ingenuity of craftsmen is also quite welcome, who can adapt metal parts and wheels that are unnecessary in the household for this design.

Frames can be wheeled - that is, it will not be difficult to transport them to the right place. You can also make a stationary, fixed frame - it is easier to manufacture, and in a suburban area, usually any large movements of the concrete mixer are not planned.

The frames may also differ in the degree of freedom provided by the mixing tub. So, the container can be installed pivotally, with a change, as necessary, in the angle of inclination of its axis to the horizon - for solutions of varying degrees of "severity", for pouring ready-made concrete, for washing the container, etc.

A simpler option is when the bucket on the frame always occupies one position, and the entire concrete mixer leans forward to unload the solution - like a wheelbarrow (as shown in one of the figures above) or children's rocking chairs on arched skids.

Video: homemade concrete mixer with a swing frame

However, we will continue to consider the drawing of a concrete mixer, the manufacture of the mixing tub of which was described above. It is possible to go this route as well. Drawing, for ease of perception and for greater clarity in the dimensions and layout of parts, is presented in two projections.

Concrete mixer - front view

To assemble such a frame from ordinary and shaped pipes and sheet metal scraps - for an experienced locksmith - welder will not be something extremely difficult at all. Meanwhile, this design is well tested - it is not heavy, but it ensures reliable stability of the concrete mixer in the transport and working position, ensures maximum ease of operation.

She is a side view.

1 - this is the same tub that was described in the last section of the article.

2 - handle-lever for setting the bucket in the desired position and for tipping it when unloading. You can use ½ inch (½ʺ) steel pipe for the lever.

3 – a gusset cut out of 3 mm steel (s 3) ensures that the lever is securely fastened to the swivel subframe (pos. 18 ).

4 – metal wheels Ø 350 mm. Usually they are taken from decommissioned agricultural machinery.

5 – persistent legs with thrust bearings, for stable installation of the concrete mixer in the working position. They are made of ½ʺ pipe (pillars themselves) and s3 steel (thrust bearings).

6 - the cross beam of the frame of the concrete mixer. A profile pipe with a cross section of 60 × 20 mm is used.

8 - an inclined beam (pipe 60 × 20 mm), and for its rigidity - a brace (pos. 7 ) connected to the cross beam. For strut - pipe ½ ʺ.

9 – a panel to which the electric drive control elements will be attached. The panel is cut from s3 steel.

11 - wheel axle. It is made from a metal circle Ø16 mm - according to the size of the mounting hole available wheels.

12 - longitudinal beam of the bed of the concrete mixer. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

13 - vertical stand. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.

14 – an eye of hinged fastening of a rotary subframe. Two parts are made, from s5 steel.

15 - transmission gearbox. In this version - a ready-made assembly, worm type, with a gear ratio i = 17.

16 – safety clutch on the drive shaft.

17 – . Specifically, in this concrete mixer model, the developer used a three-phase drive (380 V), with a rated power of 1 kW, and a rotation speed of 950 rpm.

18 - a swinging subframe, on which both the electric drive with the gearbox and the mixing tub itself are mounted. It is made from the following parts: two spars from a ¾ʺ pipe, four crossbars from a corner 35 × 35 mm.

19 , 20 and 21 – electric drive controls: start button, capacitor box and power cord with a three-phase socket, respectively.

Now - a slightly larger node BUT, which ensures the installation and fixation of the mixing tub in the desired position.

On the stretcher (pos. 18 ) welded eyelet (pos. 22 ), and on an inclined rack (pos. 8 ) – sector (pos. 10 ). Both the eyelet and the sector can be made of s3 steel. The selected position is fixed with a pin (pos. 23 ), and so that it does not get lost, it is recommended to hang it on a chain.

The number of fixed positions in the sector may be different. However, it is usually sufficient t rex:

- at an angle of 50 ° to the horizon - for mixing heavy concrete mortars;

- at an angle of 30 ° - for the preparation of light mortars (for example, masonry);

- horizontally - for washing the tub.

After the frame is assembled, all welds are beaten off from slag, the parts must be cleaned of corrosion pockets. Then it is recommended to cover the structure with high-quality paint for metal. The rubbing components of the frame (subframe suspension in the frame lugs, wheel axles) are generously lubricated with ordinary hinged grease.

In the considered version, the drive and the gearbox unit are attached to the subframe (so that exact alignment is observed). After checking the performance (trial run), you can finally assemble the concrete mixer by putting it in place and fixing the mixing tub with bolts.

A few words about the drive

In the example under consideration, the electric motor and gearbox already recommended by the model developer were used. However, in the practice of self-manufacturing concrete mixers very widespread there is a situation when the master “on the go” selects a drive from what is available and comes up with a way to transfer torque to the mixing tank.

It is customary to calculate the required power of the electric drive, based on the ratio of 20 W per liter of solution for a scheme with an inclined bucket. (In a horizontal arrangement, for example, in models with a barrel on a horizontal axis, 15 W / l will be sufficient). You should not forget about this ratio so as not to overload the drive. For example, if the engine in our case has a power of 1 kW, then more than 50 liters of solution should not be mixed, regardless of the size of the tub itself.

Thus, often they begin to manufacture the tub itself, starting from the parameters of the drive, which is planned to be put on a concrete mixer.

The rotation speed of the mixer tub must also be within certain framework . So, it is considered optimal from 30 to 50 rpm. To make the speed less - to deliberately delay the process of making the solution. And if the speed is too high, then spraying of the solution will begin.

Finding a ready-made gearbox that would meet the requirements both in terms of dimensions and gear ratio is not always possible. Therefore, many craftsmen find their own, sometimes very original ways of transmitting torque while providing the desired angular velocity. In the variant that was considered, the mixer is planted directly on the driven axle of the gearbox. However, often the bucket is mounted on a free axle, and the torque laneeaten on it with a gear, belt, chain drive. For example, here are some original solutions:

Instead of pulleys - bicycle wheels

Homemade gearbox - drive from an old washing machine transmits the rotation of belt drives through the pulleys of their gears and old bicycle wheels.

The simplest frame with a homemade gearbox

Fixed frame for a concrete mixer with a homemade gearbox.

Homemade gearbox, which combines a belt and two chain drives. Again, not without bicycle parts.

A small-sized concrete mixer, the rotation of which is transmitted to the bucket directly through a belt drive. The pulley is structurally placed on the mixing tank itself.

Very often, car parts that are unnecessary in the garage are used. A popular solution is to use a flywheel with a ring gear. By the way, it is very easy to find a drive gear in a pair for it - from the bendix of a car starter, since they are " made for each other».

The flywheel can be fully assembled welded to the bottom of the tub.

Another option is when only the ring gear is used. Probably, it is not necessary to say that in this case, its very careful centering will be an extremely important point.

In a word, a thrifty owner can very often find parts for his own original solution to the issue of manufacturing the desired gearbox. Perhaps the options shown will be a good hint for someone.

Video: another design option for a concrete mixer

Prices for concrete mixers Stroymash

concrete mixer Stroymash

If everything worked out, then the owner can be congratulated on the successful acquisition of a good “assistant”. But in order for the concrete mixer to last longer and not cause any emergencies, you need to follow certain rules:

• Like any equipment associated with the consumption of electricity, a concrete mixer requires compliance with electrical safety rules. And in this case, this issue is even more acute, since operation is always carried out in conditions of high humidity and a high probability of water splashing. That is, all cables and contact connections must have the most reliable insulation, which completely excludes electric shock or short circuit.
• The operation of a concrete mixer is always associated with high levels of vibration. This leads to loosening of threaded connections, which means that they need to be checked and tightened regularly. At the same time, one should not forget to control the safety of other assemblies and parts, welds, etc.
• Before starting work, you need to make sure that the installation of the concrete mixer is reliable. It should rest firmly on all of its standard stands. If the structure is mobile, then wheel chocks (wedges) are placed under the wheels.
• Never, under no circumstances not Do not leave a working concrete mixer unattended. Curious people should not be allowed near it, and even more so - children.
• When working, it is better to use protective equipment for the skin and eyes - since the cement acts quite aggressively on tissues and mucous membranes.
• Checking the quality of the resulting solution with a shovel or stick while the concrete mixer is running is the height of imprudence! Very often, such actions end in a serious injury to the hands or face.

And in conclusion of the article - proof that there are no limits to creativity when creating home-made equipment.

Video: homemade concrete mixer based on an old T-16 tractor

As a rule, construction works rarely do without the use of concrete. It is rather difficult to knead the solution with one's own hands, using only a large container and a shovel, and with a significant scale of the forthcoming work, it is not at all advisable. It is much more convenient to mix concrete with a concrete mixer. Such a unit can be purchased at any specialized store, but still, many, trying to save money, try to make it on their own. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a great opportunity to acquire such a useful device at minimal financial cost. How it can be made, and will be discussed in today's article.

Popular do-it-yourself concrete mixer designs

Consider a few simple options that are most popular.

Option number 1. Mechanical

You can see the design of this simple mechanical mixing unit in the image below. The main advantage of such a concrete mixer is that it has an impressive volume. As for the drive, in this case it can be either manual or electric. To unload concrete, the bucket must be tilted to one side.

But there is also a minus inherent, in principle, to all units with a tub of cylindrical shape - this is poor-quality mixing in the corners. The mixture is also sprayed if the speed is more than 35 revolutions per minute. But the second problem can be dealt with if, upon completion of the assembly, that part of the barrel that was cut off is welded back into place and a hatch is made in it.

Note! Such a concrete mixer with its own hands kneads a simple solution for no more than 5 minutes, and a dry one - 1-12 minutes.

Video - Manual concrete mixer with a cylindrical bucket

Option number 2. Horizontal combined design, which is equipped with combs

This design, as well as the one described above, can also be both manual and electric. The advantages include high homogeneity of mixing, as well as high speed and quality of this procedure. Such a concrete mixer is made from an old barrel, but its quality is not much inferior to the best modern industrial models. Tellingly, the mixing speed is determined by the number of revolutions, and not by time (to prepare the solution, you need to rotate only three or four times).

Although there is a minus - it consists in the fact that the design is quite complicated. To make even a manual version, you will need several dozen different elements. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the unloading hatch - all seals, latches with hinges must be of exceptionally high quality and reliable. However, if you have a lot of work to do in record time in a place where there is no electrical power, then such a concrete mixer will come in very handy. Finally, we note that similar structures are also manufactured on an industrial scale.

Option number 3. Electrical design

This is perhaps the most common option, which in most cases is copied by home craftsmen. Therefore, there is no need to explain anything in particular. You can find the diagram in the image below. There are many varieties that have certain design differences, and finding detailed drawings is not difficult. In short, here are just a few explanations.

• The neck and bottom of the container must be reinforced with strips welded crosswise.
• The most suitable in this case is a frame mixer, which is welded to the axis.
• It is recommended that the container rotate with the axis - this way the frame design will be more complicated, but you will not have to seal the shaft in the bottom (the latter is one of the reasons for the short service life of the agitators).

Video - Concrete mixer assembly process

Option number 4. Vibrating unit

Quite often, people, having a 1-1.3 kilowatt hammer drill with a percussion mechanism that is forced on, tried to make a vibratory concrete mixer on their own, but in most cases they did not get the desired result.

Let's take a look at common mistakes.

1. First of all, this is the wrong choice of capacity. The latter should only be round, not too wide, but high.
2. The vibrator is not positioned correctly. It should be placed on the axis of the container, and the distance from it to the bottom should approximately correspond to its radius. Above the vibrator itself there should be a solution with a height not exceeding its (again) diameter.
3. A flat vibrator is used. The fact is that if it is made of a sheet of metal, it will not be able to excite the required system of waves in concrete. It is important that the profile of the element be at least approximately the same as shown in the image. The best option is a pair of saucers or plates (it is better to give preference to metal ones), which are stacked together.
4. And the last thing is the vibrator is too large. Its diameter should be 15-20 centimeters per kilowatt of power. Simply put, if the power of the perforator is the same 1.3 kilowatts, then the device will cope with plates with a diameter of 25 centimeters. If the diameter is large, then the concrete mixer with its own hands simply will not be able to "rock" the solution.

If you follow all these requirements, you can get concrete of excellent quality.

Video - Making the original concrete mixer

Making a concrete mixer - step by step guide

To make the design described below, you will need, first of all, patience, since you will have to work hard. The process consists of several successive stages, consider the features of each of them.

Stage one. Capacity

To make a mixing bowl (also known as a pear), prepare a ready-made tub or the materials from which you will make it. There are many possible options - a drum from a washing machine, an old can, a barrel. Although if you put forward special requirements for the future design, then it is preferable to make a pear with your own hands. Prepare sheet metal (not new) with a thickness of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Then get to work.

Make 3 or 4 components of the future container. A pair of truncated cones (this will be the bottom and top), the base (in other words, the lowest part), and also the fastening of the cones in the center (if such a thing is necessary at all).

After that, weld all the elements together to get a pear (it, in accordance with preliminary calculations, has a volume of about 200 liters). In addition, it is desirable that at each attachment point there is a double weld. It is worth noting that often craftsmen are advised to fix metal rivets between a pair of welds to increase reliability, although this moment is optional.

Stage two. Body and base

As for the case, it is often made of wood, but if you are serious about durability, then it is better to use a metal corner. Give preference to durable material with a minimum of rust (if scrap metal is used), also take care of the design of the most convenient base. The future body must withstand the planned weight with a margin of 20-50 percent, since during vibration and mixing, the load, respectively, will only increase. Moreover, keep in mind that in addition to the concrete weighing 100-200 kilograms, you also need to hold the container itself, and with the necessary additional accessories.

All fasteners are carried out by welding and auxiliary bolted connections. At the same time, it is recommended to take care of the practicality of the future unit in parallel. The concrete mixer can be piled on a frame with wheels for more convenient transportation of the “miracle of technology”. You can also take care of a convenient handle, with which the body will move around the construction site.

Stage three. Engine

This stage is rightfully considered the most difficult, since it is quite difficult to calculate what characteristics and parameters the future equipment should have. Therefore, the power should be determined based on the requirements for the volume and weight of the mixed concrete, as well as the ability to extract one or another engine. Some use a motor from a washing machine or scooter for these purposes, while others prefer less expensive equipment (for example, a motor from an electric drill or any similar tool).

We also note that both the power and the speed at which the concrete mixer will rotate with its own hands should be taken into account. It is important that it is not very high - say, about 15-20 revolutions per minute. There are several ways to adjust the speed - automatic, gears with shafts, a homemade fixture, and also the use of belts.

Stage four. Direct assembly of the concrete mixer

The assembly procedure itself is nothing complicated and includes several sequential steps. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step one. First you need to make sure that all connections - both pears and cases - are strong enough. Fasteners should be provided in advance, the same applies to the connection and installation of the motor.

step two. After that, you need to install the engine and gearbox on the frame, and then fix all the parts of the rotating mechanism with high quality.

Step Three. The next step is to install the container on the axle and base. This should be done so that the pear is located at an angle of 35 degrees.

Step Four. Now it remains only to check how the concrete mixer turns on / off, whether the fasteners are reliable, how well the rotation occurs. To adjust all parameters, gears or a belt are used.

Note! The procedure described above is more clearly demonstrated in the thematic video below. After looking at it, you will finally understand how to manufacture and run the device described in this article.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

It is worth noting that any of the designs described above can be a good alternative to expensive "shop" equipment. Although, of course, in the absence of the required consumables, the cost of such budget equipment can increase markedly; although the experience is in any case very interesting. In addition, the design of the concrete mixer can be reduced in cost, and the principle of its operation can be simplified. This can be done, for example, by replacing automatic rotation with manual rotation. In this case, instead of dozens of complex parts, you will need only bearings, a handle, a lever, as well as a “comb”, which will be located inside the pear.

Another option for making a concrete mixer

The construction presented below is very similar to that described in the previous section, and therefore some detailed explanations are not required here. The manufacturing procedure itself can be understood from the given step-by-step illustrations. We only note that in this example, a ready-made barrel of 200 liters, a 250-watt electric motor at 1430 revolutions, a motorcycle wheel, a pair of rings welded together are used. The finished pulley will be welded to the bottom of the tank. You will also need a pair of belts, a channel and pipes 59 for the frame.

Decision feasibility

So, we found out that cement mortar is required for almost all construction work. And if for pouring the foundation, for example, it is advisable to use a purchased ready-made mixture, then in the case of work involving the periodic use of relatively small portions of the mixture, it is advisable to rent / buy a concrete mixer (you can use a manual one, but better an electric one).

Of course, for kneading, you can use the same trough with a shovel, but this approach, in addition to labor costs, has other disadvantages. The quality of concrete in this case will not be high, the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous, which, in turn, will lead to excess consumption of dry cement and low strength characteristics of the finished concrete.

Note! The term "concrete mixer" refers to a number of special building mixers (manual / electric), that is, devices designed to obtain a homogeneous cement-containing mixture by mixing ingredients with heterogeneous fractions.

As a rule, dry cement is mixed with water, special additives and fillers (the latter can be: sand, expanded clay, screenings, gravel).

How is a concrete mixer built?

Standard design includes:

• frame (it can be both on the chassis and stationary);
• kneading working bodies;
• a container in which the mixing process takes place directly;
• unloading mechanism;
• transmission;
• driving unit (it can be, for example, gasoline or electric).

Let's get acquainted with each of the constructive components in more detail.

1. So, the bed is a structure made of profiles / pipes and is intended to connect all parts of the concrete mixer into one system. If the unit is small, then the frame can be equipped with two / four wheels to make it easier to transport.
2. Blades, augers and other parts that act directly on the ingredients of the concrete being kneaded can often be referred to mixing bodies.
3. A container is an element in which all these ingredients are mixed. Its volume and dimensions depend mainly on the performance of the concrete mixer.
4. Unloading mechanism - it, as the name suggests, is intended for the extraction of concrete for the purpose of further use in construction work. It can also be different.
5. Finally, a transmission with a driving unit is needed to convert this or that energy into the movement of a kneading body. As noted earlier, the engine is electric (used most often) or gasoline.

The main types of concrete mixers

There are several classifications of the unit described in the article, according to which it is divided according to one or another parameter. So, according to the principle of their action, there are five varieties of concrete mixers.

1. Gravitational. They differ in that the drum for mixing the solution rotates under the influence of gravity. The best option for the preparation of viscous and rigid concrete.
2. Forced. A more difficult to manufacture do-it-yourself concrete mixer, where the container does not move, and the blades inside it mix the components of the mixture. Such units are used in private construction infrequently.
3. Periodic. They are characterized by low power, and therefore need frequent stops. But for private construction, this is a completely acceptable option.
4. Gear (better known as crown).
5. Permanent. Such concrete mixers, judging by the name, operate continuously, and therefore are used mainly for large volumes of work.

In addition, according to the type of concrete produced, the equipment can be of two types

• mortar mixers;
• concrete mixers.

Let's consider each of these options in more detail.

Option number 1. Mortar mixers

Simple equipment, designed for private construction. Designed for mixing components, the size of the fractions of which is more than 2 centimeters. Also, the units can be industrial (if the volume does not exceed 1200 liters) and for private use (over 30 liters).

As a rule, all ingredients are mixed in mortar mixers in a forced way, for which a horizontal screw is used, which rotates in an immovable container. If the volume of the unit is more than 100 liters, then it must be equipped with dispensers. And if the volume of equipment exceeds 250 liters, then it, as a rule, will include the following elements:

• engine;
• mixing container;
• drive unit;
• rotating shaft having blades.

Note! Small mortar mixers with a volume not exceeding 65 liters are emptied by tilting the drum. If the volume is larger, then a hatch is used for this, which is located at the bottom of the device.

Option number 2. concrete mixers

They are designed for use with components with a fraction size of no more than 7 centimeters. All units of this type are classified in the same way as described in one of the previous sections of the article.

In addition, according to the features of the installation, they can be:

• mobile (this includes both concrete mixers with a chassis and units without it);
• stationary (often for industrial purposes, characterized by increased productivity);
• automotive.

We also note that, depending on the type of drive and energy source, all concrete mixers are divided into several more varieties.

• With manual drive. They are characterized by the fact that they are able to convert the muscular efforts of a person into the rotation of a kneading organ. The transmission is in most cases chain gear or belt. Such concrete mixers are not very common, since their volume is insignificant, and they do not facilitate labor very much.
• With motor drive. A concrete mixer (including a do-it-yourself one) of this kind operates on a diesel / gasoline engine.
• With pneumatic and hydraulic drive. The kneading organs in this case move due to the conversion of the energy of compressed air or liquid, which are supplied under high pressure. Such equipment is exclusively for industrial use, since it needs powerful additional devices.
• Electrical. The most popular types of concrete mixers today, not only for industrial, but also for domestic purposes. The range of such units is quite extensive, and their volume varies from 30 to several thousand liters.

Benefits of using

There are several of them, let's take a closer look at each of them.

• Manual-type units, in fact, are completely autonomous.
• But the crown mixer is quite easy to use and, if necessary, repair.
• Motor-driven equipment is also quite autonomous, as it only needs fuel.

Application Disadvantages

• For electrical appliances, this is the opening of the hatch some time after the interruption of the supply of electricity and, as a result, the discharge of concrete (otherwise it will harden).
• In addition, concrete mixers, in principle, are seasonal. For the most part, they (especially small units) cannot be used at sub-zero temperatures. As a result, in winter it is necessary to additionally use a steam generator.
• Separately, it is worth highlighting the disadvantages of motor-driven devices - this is the high cost of the fuel used, the high level of noise during operation, as well as the toxicity of exhaust gases.
• A simple mortar mixer capable of operating at a temperature not lower than +2 degrees does not have equipment that provides heating of the mixture.
• The performance of manual units is quite low, while the labor intensity of mixing, on the contrary, is high.

As a conclusion

As you can see, the independent manufacture of a concrete mixer is nothing complicated, you can deal with it. And the costs are fully justified, since the speed of any construction work with such equipment will increase significantly. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!