Do-it-yourself earth drill with a return mechanism. Garden hand drills: types and making your own Hand drill yourself

Well drilling - the best way water supply suburban area in the absence of a highway central water supply due to the low cost of work compared to well water supply and technological accessibility. These factors allow owners of individual plots to carry out drilling independently after they have made a simple and inexpensive drill for a well with their own hands.

There are various designs of drilling devices for individual drilling, their choice depends on the composition of the soil at the site, the depth of the water layer, pumping equipment, used for water intake in the future.

Studying the technology of individual drilling and methods for making drills with your own hands in the case of independently carrying out drilling work without the involvement of third-party specialists or commercial organizations will help homeowners save not only financial resources, but also earn money, if desired, by providing similar services to local residents.

Several types of wells are used to collect water in the areas; when drilling independently, the maximum deepening threshold does not exceed 35 m, so they drill shallow wells and wells in the sand with their own hands. In this case, the drilling device performs two tasks: it forms a shaft in the ground, into which the casing is then lowered, and removes the soil, softened after drilling, out. Almost all methods additionally use water, which facilitates the passage and extraction of rock accumulated in the mine to the top.

For self-drilling use various technologies and several types of drills, the main of which are:

Screw (spiral). Auger drilling is the main type of well creation using the industrial method; installations for its implementation occupy a leading position in terms of prevalence and are used by organizations professionally involved in drilling technologies. During excavation, the drill is lowered to a considerable depth by extending it with rods, and excess soil is extracted out hydraulically using water.

A factory-made manual auger drill for a water well can be purchased at trading network, to implement the screw method in living conditions They make a drill with their own hands using welding. With the dry method, they travel a distance of up to 10 m; with auger hydraulic drilling using water, the highest depths of about 35 m are achieved.

To facilitate the work being carried out, the rotation of the auger is often carried out using electrical construction tools - a hammer drill, a mixer, a gasoline saw, a gas cutter, a powerful grinder with special attachments. Many craftsmen assemble simple installations using electric motors with their own hands, which increase productivity and make drilling easier.

Needle-shaped. The needle method is based on impact technology, in which metal pipe with a sharp tip is driven into the ground. During the passage, the following pipe sections are connected to the driving pipe, as a result of which it is possible to achieve depths of about 15 m. For driving, a load with large mass, which is periodically lifted and thrown onto a frame rigidly fixed to the pipe shell. The work requires intense physical effort; to facilitate driving, electrical tools are used - construction hammers, jackhammers, and the load is lowered and lifted using a manual or electric winch.

With the needle method, the soil is not removed to the surface, but is compacted in the borehole channel, which limits the depth of immersion in the case of dense underground rock with a high clay content. In addition to the low depth, the disadvantages of needle technology include the small diameter of the passage channel due to the small overall dimensions of the needle, which becomes quite difficult to drive into the ground manually with a larger radius.

Spoon. The technology is designed for drilling in dry sandy soil of low density; its operating principle is to collect softened rock in a chamber like a glass and then extract it to the surface together with the drill. Since a cylindrical container in the form of a pipe section, a cylinder, has a capacious chamber for collecting soil, wide channels usually pass in this way into which standard casing columns can be installed.

The excavation technique using a glass is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming due to the fact that it is periodically removed outside to free it from the collected earth. If the depth of the water layer is high, the entire system with the assembled pipeline has to be dismantled to the top during each treatment, which significantly increases the time required for the work. Also, periodically removing heavy soil and interconnected metal rods from great depths manually is physically difficult, therefore this technique with maximum labor costs, it is designed to cover distances of up to 10 m, and the optimal depth of the passage channel is no more than 6 m.

Zhelonki. The principle of operation of the bailer used for cleaning wells is based on lowering a cylindrical container into the well channel, at the end of which a check valve system is installed. Water is poured into the shaft, as a result of which the soil turns into liquid mud; it enters the bailer through a check valve, which opens when immersed. When lifting, the valve closes as a result of the pressure on its surface from the mud mass, blocking the exit of the collected rock; after extraction, the liquid soil is poured out, and the process is repeated again.

Industrial technology has been developed using a bailer cable-percussion drilling, in which a massive structure with check valve, after collecting the liquid rock, it is removed. In domestic drilling using this technology, significant penetration depths of up to 30 m are achieved, however, it takes considerable time to cover such distances.

When drilling wells, they often combine various methods, for example, it is practical to use a bailer at great depths, so the initial section is passed with an auger drill, and then the pipe with the valve is thrown into the shaft from a greater height, which increases the efficiency of its use.

Advantages of do-it-yourself manual drilling

Manual drilling with self-made devices has the following advantages over automatic drilling methods using special drilling equipment by individuals and organizations:

Cheapness. Making a drill with your own hands from scrap materials and drilling a well without the involvement of third-party assistants, specialists, or organizations is the most profitable option from a financial point of view if other methods of employment in your free time do not bring monetary income.

Versatility. Independent manual drilling work is universal due to the following features:

Manual drilling in many situations is the only possible option for carrying out work, if entry into the site of special equipment is impossible or the well is located in a built room.
Manually laying narrow borehole channels without the use of casing strings standard diameter, which significantly reduces the cost of organizing and equipping water supply on an individual site.
Drilling is carried out manually to a depth of 5 to 35 m, which corresponds to the characteristics of an Abyssinian and sand well.
The drill made can be used for other economic purposes, if it is necessary to make holes in the ground - when constructing fences, planting garden plants, installing pile foundations and other household works. If it is no longer needed, the structure can always be disassembled and used on the farm at your own discretion.

Flexibility of application. Depending on the depth of the water layer, the quality of the soil and the dimensional parameters of the borehole channel, various drilling technologies, designs of drilling devices or combinations thereof are used. With individual manufacturing, there is always the opportunity, through experimentation, to independently make a drill for a well, the most convenient and effective for specific conditions.

Work can be carried out at any time convenient for the owner, without reference to the season, time of day, weather, hired specialists or organizations. If electricity is not supplied to the area being developed, manual mechanically you can drill wells without her presence.

Of course, for cheap manual method you will have to pay with the speed of work and intense physical labor, the latter to some extent useful in terms of improving health.

Methods for connecting drill pipes

To drill long distances, the drill is extended under water using hollow steel pipes of standard diameters 21.3, 26.8 and 33.5 mm with a length of 1500 to 2000 mm, which are connected to each other in the following ways:

Threaded. In this technology, for connection, an external thread is used, which is cut at one pipe end, and an internal thread on transition couplings, which are short cylindrical sections with a diameter corresponding to the lower point of the pipe thread notch. Cutting is carried out manually using dies using die holders according to the old Soviet method or more modern ones. convenient devices- in grains. After applying threads to the inner side of the transition couplings and the outer shell of the pipes at one end, a coupling is welded to their other edge, and extension is carried out by screwing subsequent pipes into the couplings of the previous ones.

Bolt and threaded coupling. At this method a bolt is welded to one end of the pipe large diameter, and to the other - a long nut in the form of a coupling with internal thread, corresponding to the outer one of the bolt, when connecting the pipe elements, screw them onto each other until they stop. The technology is reminiscent of joining factory-produced drill rods; factory connecting heads can be welded or screwed to threads instead of bolts and couplings.

Pin. Joining pipes using a pin is the most optimal method, ensuring high speed of connection and disassembly of extension rods. To implement it, an internal coupling is welded to one side of each pipe, the next pipe is put on it and holes are drilled in them at some distance from the edge. Then a pin is inserted into the through channel of the two joined pipes, preventing them from being separated.

The disadvantage of pin fastening is the possibility of falling out of the holes; the easiest way to eliminate this disadvantage is to use a threaded bolt with a nut for fastening. However, this solution is ineffective for fast connection Moreover, when used underground, the threads are constantly clogged with dirt, which significantly slows down the assembly and disassembly of the extension pipeline. It is more effective to use a pin with a latch, which is a rotating plate embedded in its end, similar to the design used for assembly scaffolding. But this system also has the disadvantage of using individual elements which may be lost, also when the extension rod pipes rotate in hard ground, there is a high probability of deformation and damage to the weakened pin ends with limiting plates.

Best method solving problems associated with the disadvantages of pin connections is the use of a special design, in which a U-shaped plate with an inserted pin is welded to the pipe opposite the through hole, and a restrictive pin is inserted into its body through a through radial channel. The limiter prevents the pin from being lost and falling out of the assembly, and is also an element with the help of which the pin is moved along the through hole, connecting and disconnecting the pipeline. Also, the outer U-shaped steel plate protects the pin and stop from damage when rotating in the ground.

If the above design seems too complicated to be manufactured at home, a good option is to purchase a factory-made pin for attaching soil drills, which is a bolt with smooth walls, in the head of which a hole is drilled and a rigid wire stop is inserted, which goes around the pipe and is put on on the other side to the end of a smooth-walled bolt.

Preparing for independent drilling

Before making a drill for, the following factors should be determined:

Estimated depth of the water basin. If the water layer is located at a depth of no more than 10 m, the well can be awakened by any of the 4 methods above. For water intake with a surface electric pump, a small channel cross-section is sufficient, so it is more rational and simpler to use driving technology using a needle drill or screw penetration with a small diameter drill. If you plan to use submersible pump in a column of standard casing pipes, a bailer or spoon-type structure is made. For drilling to great depths, as well as to shallow ones, there are no competitors to auger hydraulic drilling in terms of speed and efficiency; the use of the shock-rope method with a bailer or a spoon drill is significantly inferior in time to auger drilling using water and may turn out to be economically unprofitable due to high physical activity and significant loss of time.
Well diameter. For water intake from depths greater than 9 m from the surface level, you will need to use a submersible electric pump, which requires the use of a large diameter casing; in this case, drilling can be carried out using any of the above methods. An effective option for sinking clay structures is to use drilling in the casing, in which water is poured into it, and the soil in the form of liquid mud is extracted out with a bailer or spoon device.

Manufacturing of borehole drills

After determining the drilling method, they begin to independently manufacture a drilling device; for this you will need:

Domestic welding machine with electrodes on steel.
Angle grinder for cutting metal.
Cuttings of steel plates, pipes, used discs for stone, concrete, wood for making a drill.
Pipes 1500 - 2000 mm long for lowering the drill to a depth, a thread-cutting unit with dies, adapter couplings purchased or prepared for threading.
Strong steel cables, tripods, homemade winches for lowering and lifting loads, bailers, spoon devices into the borehole.
Power tools to speed up drilling operations - hammer drill, drill, jackhammer.

Auger or spiral drill

A factory-made auger drill is a piece of metal rod or pipe, around which a steel strip is welded in a spiral, and at the end there is a pointed tip. The spiral-shaped tape breaks off near the tip and has a different number of turns; during operation, soil falls into the space between the turns and when the auger is removed, it is thrown onto the surface of the area.

It is quite difficult to make such a device at home due to the great difficulties in bending a steel strip about 2 mm thick into a spiral with a small radius, so they use a simplified design of an auger drill, consisting of a small number of turns. Most best option- make a screw with your own hands homemade drill for a well from used metal discs for an angle grinder. To do this proceed as follows:

Take a piece of metal pipe with a standard outer diameter of 21.3 mm, attach a pre-prepared tip to its end, it can be a pointed steel plate cut in the shape of a triangle, the tip of a spear, or a ribbon spiral. The tip is fixed by welding, if a multifunctional design with a change of tip is intended to be used, it is inserted into the cut of a pipe or steel pin, then bolted through the through holes.

A standard disc for an angle grinder has a seat diameter of 22.2 mm; when used as a working surface for a drill, it is cut in the radial direction from the edge to the center and the edges are moved in different directions at an angle of 30 degrees so that a fragment of a spiral is obtained. In this case, the internal diameter of the disk when bending slightly decreases and ensures mating with the outer diameter of the pipe of 21.3 with a small gap sufficient to accommodate the metal from the electrode with an internal rod diameter of about 5 mm. As a spiral fragment (disc), used steel circles for cutting stone, concrete, and wood with a serrated edge with a standard outer diameter of 115 mm are used; sometimes 1 or 2 discs are additionally welded, providing a larger excavation.
At the end of the auger drill pipe, a thread is cut or a threaded coupling is welded to it for connection with subsequent pipes; due to its small diameter, a through hole for the handle is not drilled in the longitudinal direction, but this operation is carried out with sections of pipes that will lengthen the structure.

Note: A homemade spiral drill of small diameter is used for the fastest mechanical penetration of a borehole channel in hydraulic drilling, while water is supplied to the tip of the drill through a system of extension steel pipes, which are connected to each other with threads using couplings.

Needle

The needle drill is designed for forming narrow and shallow borehole channels; it is often left in the well, which determines the technology for its independent production. A needle borehole drill and penetration is done in the following way:

Take thick-walled steel pipe 1500 - 2000 mm long, a pointed metal tip of a tetrahedral, conical shape is welded at one end (you can use a peak from a hammer drill) and a series of holes are drilled in the walls for water access to a length of about 1500 - 2000 mm from the tip. On the other side, a pipe section of a smaller diameter (internal coupling) is inserted into the pipe to connect to the next pipe and secured by welding.
A rigid clamp is fixed on the surface of the first pipe, onto which a load is then periodically lowered and moved along the pipe surface - as a result, the needle is driven into the ground. After lowering the joint point near the surface of the earth, the pipes to be connected are welded from the outside, the clamp is moved higher along with the load onto the next pipe. Sometimes they use welded on the outside to casing pipe the metal plate on which the load is struck, after lowering to the required distance, the shock pipe is removed, replaced with a casing, and the process is repeated further.
Upon completion of the work, the pipeline is cut at the required distance from the ground, a thread is cut at the end and an electric pump is connected through adapter couplings, while the steel pipeline simultaneously serves as a casing column and a pressure hose supplying water.

Do you want to install a water supply system on your property by drilling a well yourself? Agree that the presence of water supply and sewerage significantly increases the level of comfort when living in a private house or country house. But calling specialists to install a well or borehole will not be cheap.

Have you decided to make a drill for a well with your own hands and are looking for a simple homemade option? We will help you in this matter - the article contains useful information about the process of making a homemade spiral drill and a spoon drill.

A list is provided necessary tools and materials, selected thematic photos and useful video recommendations for constructing a homemade drill.

Our detailed instructions, equipped step by step photos, will help even a beginner make a simple and uncomplicated drill.

The length of the string of rods attached to the drill will be increased gradually as the drill moves deeper.

There are several options for connecting rods into a long drill rod, these are:

Threaded coupling. To create such a connection, a thread is cut inside each section that will correspond to the dimensions of the connecting element. The threaded coupling is manufactured required length. All we have to do is exclude the possibility of spontaneous unscrewing of the connection. For these purposes, a cotter pin clamp is used. This method is simple and reliable.
Nut and bolt. They are welded to rods made of small diameter pipes. This is a fairly simple, but not reliable option. You will have to weld on a thin-walled pipe, on which such a connection is unlikely to be strong. Moreover, in order to record this threaded connection rods, you will have to put in extra effort.
Welded couplings. Cut from a pipe whose diameter is larger than that of the rod. Then tightly weld the coupling to the pipe at one end of the section. Insert the next section freely into the same coupling on the other side. Now you need to secure the sections so that they do not rotate. To do this, you can insert a bolt across the pipe and secure it with a nut on the other side.

To make a drill for a deep well with your own hands, several rods are connected. Moreover, it is better if their connection is extremely simple. After all, during the drilling process, the tool will rise to the surface so that it is freed from the ground.

Each rise of the drill is accompanied by its division into its component parts, and each subsequent descent is accompanied by new assembly and extension.

Good day. I want to tell you about how I made the drill.
I needed to install several posts of different diameters on the site. I was too lazy to dig, buying a ready-made drill was expensive, and my hands were itching. That's how the idea of making a drill myself came up. I found several interesting options on the Internet and, in fact, got down to business.

Since I had posts of different diameters, I decided to make a drill with interchangeable attachments for different diameters pits, 100 and 180 mm. Next I will describe the manufacture of a drill with a diameter of 100 mm.
So, to make a drill I needed:
1. Pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm, length 150-160 mm
2. Strip, 3-4 mm thick, 20 mm wide and about 80 mm long.
3. A cutter (or circular disk), from now on I will simply call it a disk, with a diameter of 100 mm and a thickness of at least 1.5-2 mm. (Fig. 1)
In this case, it is better to take a pipe with a diameter 2-5 mm smaller than the central hole of the disk.

A
B
IN

Figure 1. Drill components. A – cutter (disk); B – tube; B – stripe.

We will make the auger part of the drill from the disk. To do this, cut the disk into 2 equal halves, as shown in Figure 2

Figure 2 Cut disk.

Next, prepare the drill tip. It is necessary to give direction to drilling and ensure stability. Let's take a strip; it is desirable that the width of the strip be at least half the diameter of the pipe. In the example I described, the width of the strip is equal to the diameter of the pipe. (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Strip and pipe

From one edge of the strip we make a mark at a distance of approximately 12-16 mm (Fig. 1B). This section will remain straight. We clamp the strip in a vice, according to the mark, and twist it approximately 90 degrees (Fig. 4)

Figure 4. Twisting the strip.

The result will be a spiral strip (Fig. 5).

Figure 5 Spiral strip and tube with markings.

Figure 6. Marked strip

Figure 7. Tip after trimming.

We give it the shape of a feather on sandpaper (Fig. 8.) (in principle, this is not necessary, but it is more beautiful this way). The tip is ready, let's move on to the next element - the guide.

Figure 8. Finished tip

Let's make a guide to which the disk halves and the tip will be welded. On one edge of the tube we apply markings in the form of a crown with four peaks - teeth (Fig. 5). The height of the teeth is approximately 35-40 mm. After this, carefully cut out our “teeth” (Fig. 9) and bend them evenly inward (Fig. 10).

Figure 9 Cut guide

Figure 11 Guide.

Next, we make a slot in the tip at the junction of the two prongs, as shown in Figure 11 A. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the tip, and the depth is slightly deeper than the bend line of the prongs, 5-10 mm. If the width of the guide is less than the inner diameter of the pipe, it will be enough to make a slot such that the straight section of the tip passes inside the guide. We sharpen the two edges of the slot to fit the spiral (Fig. 11B), so that the tip fits into it to its full depth (ideally, after welding, the tip should smoothly move into the guide) (Fig. 11B).

A
B
IN

Figure 11 Slot in the guide.

Figure 12.

Well, the last step is to weld the disk halves. To do this, we draw 2 lines on the guide - the edges of the hole in the floor disks will be located on them (Fig. 13).

Figure 13

In principle, you don’t have to draw these lines, but with them it will be easier to symmetrically arrange the half-disks. We weld both halves one by one to the guide (Fig. 15), at an angle of 50-70 degrees to the axis of the guide.

Figure 14. Welding the disk halves.

The drill is almost ready, all that remains is to clean it and attach the handle.
A drill with a diameter of 180 mm was made in the same way. Both drills shown in Figure 15

Figure 15.

Figure 16 shows the drill assembly with handle. I think there is no need to describe the manufacture of the handle; in Figure 17 everything is clear.

A drill is a sharpened metal rod with blades attached around the perimeter. The tool is screwed into the ground like a self-tapping screw or a corkscrew, and is pulled out back with force, but without turning. The soil remaining on the blades rises along with the drill, and a hole with smooth edges is formed in the ground. Find out what manual and mechanical varieties exist, differing in blade designs and operating principles. Make a simple device with your own hands.

A drill is used instead of a shovel when it is necessary to dig a round hole of precise diameter. In dacha farming, an automatic or manual drill for earthworks useful if you are planning:

Mount columnar foundation for home.
Dig holes for planting trees and bushes.
Loosen the soil around already growing plants.
Drilling the ground to install a fence.
Dig compost pit or borehole, straight or inclined tunnel.

Electric model for excavation work

The design of a garden auger differs from industrial tools and depends on the purpose. Key parameters: number and diameter of blades, as well as rod length. The advantages of the garden version over the industrial one are lightness, ease of use, and the ability to make it yourself.

Drilling with sheet steel tools

Types of drilling devices - mechanical and manual

Mechanized earth drills operate independently, powered by a gasoline or electric engine, or paired with earth equipment, such as tractor rods. Manual models are compact and easy to manufacture.

Garden model

Classification by engine type

There are two types of drills based on engine type:

petrol;
electric.

A gasoline earth drill is used when planting trees, constructing fences and enclosing structures. It is powered by a gasoline engine and can be:

wheeled - high power, bulky and heavy;
manual - more compact, but less powerful.

Wheeled gas auger

How does a gasoline drill work:

After starting, the engine warms up for idle speed within three minutes.
Then, when you press a button, the auger is launched through a mechanical or hydraulic transmission - the “drill” of the tool.
After stopping the engine, the auger continues to rotate by inertia and stops smoothly.

Modern drilling tools have safety features and an emergency stop feature if the rod collides with impassable soil or a solid object.

An electric drill is used when it is necessary to dig a well on a site or loosen the soil. The principle of operation of the unit is the same as that of a gasoline unit, but the engine runs on electricity and does not require warming up.

Advantages of motor powered tools:

high drilling speed;
possibility of changing nozzles;
opportunity to work with different types soil and even ice.

Drilling tool with electric motor

Disadvantages of automatic devices:

for manual models – heavy weight;
for wheeled models - large dimensions;
the need for a power source or fuel to operate.

Differences in types of attachments and blades

The drill attachment can be auger or disk.

An auger is a rod with a screw blade attached along it. The tool is capable of digging deep hole small diameter. There are often situations in which owners country houses This particular drill is used for pillars or piles when it is necessary to dig deep into the foundations, as well as when landscaping the area.

Advantages of a unit with auger:

ease of screwing;
automatic removal of a layer of soil from the surface of the blade.

Auger blade

Flaws:

inability to drill a large diameter hole manually;
complexity of the design for making it yourself.

Disc blade

A disk drill is a rod with a sharp end and halves of a sharpened disk about 2 mm thick attached 20 cm from the end. The elements are welded or bolted opposite each other at an angle of 25 degrees. The angle is maintained so that the blades cut into the ground when screwing in the drill, and at the exit they extract excess soil. The blades are installed on the rod in one or more rows, depending on the density of the soil.

Hand-held industrial and garden drills

A garden hand auger can also be disk or auger. Its difference from an automatic one is that the rod with the blade is not connected to the motor, and the user sets the movement by rotating the handle.

Shock-rope installation for wells

Other types of hand-held drilling devices:

Shock-rope installation. Because of large sizes it is used only in construction and for drilling wells. On summer cottages do not use. The drill is a pipe mounted in a tripod on a rafter system. With the help of an impact rod, the pipe is set in motion and hits the ground, loosening the soil and penetrating deeper.
Coronal instrument. Pipe with a toothed crown made of durable metal. Requires additional drilling tools and is not used in household.
Chisel bit. Used for drilling dry and hard soils - drilling is carried out using the impact method while simultaneously rotating the tool by 10 degrees.
A hand-held spoon drill with a metal cylinder attached to a rod. The cylinder is cut vertically along the top and spirally at the bottom. The parts of the cylinder are offset from each other, the lower edges are sharply ground. When screwed into the ground, the tool is filled with soil, and then it is taken out and cleaned. Only suitable for wet and clay soil, which gets stuck inside the “spoon”. It is good to use a spoon hand drill for posts under the chain-link - the holes are narrow and deep. The optimal length of the rod is 70-80 cm.

Spoon model

A hand-held earth drill can be made with your own hands with minimal skills of a mechanic and welder. The main thing is to make a comfortable handle and calculate the design of the blade.

How to make a drilling tool at home

To make your own hand-held earth auger, select the design of the tool and the type of blade. Usually a T-shaped profile is made from two metal rods, and cutting elements are attached to the vertical one.

The disk drilling device is the easiest to manufacture. You will need a grinder with cutting wheels, a welding machine, a hammer, sandpaper and pliers.

Diagram of a drill with a disc blade

Necessary materials:

a metal pipe or fittings 1.5 m long for the rod - the vertical part of the drill;
fittings 40 cm long for the handle;
disk circular saw 2-3 mm thick for blades;
drill with a diameter of 15 mm for a pointed tip.

Disc blade drawing

How to make a disk type drill:

Take a circular saw blade and use a grinder to cut it in half. Select the diameter of the disc depending on the desired size of the hole - on average, 15 cm. Grind the blades to zero so as not to cut yourself during work.
Weld two pieces of reinforcement - a handle and a rod, so that you get a T-shaped profile. Weld a drill to the end of the rod, and weld the blades 5 cm above. Make sure that the angle between them is 25 degrees.
Sharpen the blades with an grinder's abrasive wheel. You can carefully “walk” along the drill.

Circular saw - basis

You can make a disc tool with removable blades if necessary. To do this, instead of the blades themselves, weld metal pads to the rod at the desired angle, and secure the cutting elements with bolts. When necessary, you can replace them with blades of a different diameter.

Auger for narrow holes

A screw tool is more difficult to use than a disk tool due to the larger number of turns that create significant resistance. But narrow holes can be dug manually only with its help. To make an auger drill with your own hands, prepare the materials:

fittings for the rod - 1.5 m long (can be adjusted according to height);
profile pipe for a handle 40-50 cm long;
several metal disks of the same thickness (about 2 mm) and diameter - the number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the screw.

Discs welded together

How to make a homemade drill for poles:

In the center of each disk, cut a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the rod.
Take the first disk and cut out a small sector from the resulting circle. Repeat on all disks.
Weld the disks together to form a spiral spring - an auger. Weld rings to the ends of the auger.
Place the rod rod inside the central hole of the “spring” and use the rings to stretch it lengthwise.
Weld the top and bottom edges of the auger to the rod.
Boil the auger along its entire length.
Attach the handle to the rod by welding or bolting.
Sharpen the lower part of the reinforcement with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 25 degrees.

Auger stretched around a rod

Garden spade drill

If you plan to loosen soft and loose soil, make a drill from an ordinary shovel. Sequencing:

Take a high-quality steel shovel and make markings on the canvas in accordance with the drawing.
Cut the bottom of the blade according to the markings and bend the edges in different directions: one forward and the other backward.
Bend the petals of the fabric remaining below upward - also in different directions.

Marking drawing on a shovel

The drilling device is ready, it can be used for planting plants in the garden or on garden beds.

If you want to make a garden drill with your own hands, drawings and photos can give interesting idea. The materials are often what’s lying around in the barn or garage. Study several models and choose the one that is easier to manufacture or most suitable for the task.

If your own experience is not enough, you can always show the drawing to a more experienced neighbor and get to work together.

How to Modify a Handheld Drilling Tool

A homemade drill can be modified to work more efficiently. Possible improvements:

Replaceable cutters or blades. To drill holes of different diameters with one tool, make a base with mounting pads welded to the rod at an angle of 25 degrees. Drill two holes in them for the bolts with which you will attach the blades. Install the bolts with the threads facing up so that they do not interfere with drilling.
A pointed tip of a drill. Cut a plate measuring 10x2 cm from a sheet of metal. On one side, grind it to a cone-shaped state with a grinder and weld it to the end of the rod instead of a drill.
Small blades between the tip of the drill and the large ones. Add them by welding 8x3cm metal plates immediately after the tip.
A curved circular saw blade instead of halves. Take one disk and cut it radially to the middle. Bend the metal in different directions and weld it like a screw.

Result manual drilling

How to care for drilling equipment

Make handheld device for drilling at home is not difficult, but for it to serve long years, maintenance required. Rules for keeping a drill on the farm:

Immediately after purchase or manufacture, coat the blade and stem with an anti-corrosion compound to prevent rust from forming. The second option is to paint the product with metal paint.
Before work, check the sharpness of the blade and, if necessary, sharpen it with a block or sandpaper.
Before drilling, loosen the top layer of soil with a shovel.
Having screwed the tool in until the last turn, carefully pull it out - do not allow the blades to bend due to an excess of earth.
After work, clean the blades and stem from adhering soil.
Repair any damage promptly.

Video: Tool for digging holes

When working with any type of drilling rig, make sure that the soil around the edges of the hole does not crumble. If necessary, pour water inside and continue the process. A properly made drill in combination with a proven application technique is the key to success when developing a site.

To ensure the proper level of comfort at the dacha, you need to worry about the presence of a water supply system, be it. It is necessary to prepare the appropriate equipment. Let's look at what types exist and how to build them correctly with your own hands.

You need to take into account the nature of the soil in your area. The simplest design is auger. It consists of a spiral, which is a drilling element, and a handle.

The design must have:

Cutting element.
Barbell.
Handle.

Depending on the design, its configuration may vary slightly.

Split Drill Pipe

This is a structure that can lengthen as the drill goes deeper. Consists of separate detachable sections. One part can be up to one meter long. The number of sections should be equal to the expected depth of the future water well. This element is connected in several ways:

Threaded connection with coupling. An external thread should be cut on each pipe. It is important to select the coupling of the required length and prevent it from turning on its own. For this purpose, a cotter pin clamp is used.
Nut and bolt connection. A nut/bolt is welded to the rod. The method is simple, but not reliable. A thin-walled pipe may not withstand the load and will simply burst in the area near the weld.
Clutch fastening. It is welded to a pipe of the appropriate diameter. The fixation should completely eliminate the possibility of turning.

One section is used first. As it sinks into the soil, the next element is added using a special compound. And drilling continues according to this pattern.

Types of soil drills

The three most common:

Spiral.
Lozhkovy.
Shock.

Each of them has its own characteristics. First, let's look at them, and then find out the manufacturing technology.

Spiral

A homemade spiral product is mainly used in dense loose loam. It may also include fine gravel. The drilling principle comes down to rotational movements. At the bottom of the drilling tool there is a knife.

As the rod rotates, the spiral knives cut into the soil. After this, the structure is raised and freed from the ground. As you go deeper, the bar can be extended.

In manufacturing, you can use halves of disks that are welded against each other. Existing cutting blades must be well sharpened and hardened. When rotated manually, a pipe handle is welded perpendicular to the rod.

Advantages:

You can do it yourself when making small wells of several meters.
Possibility to drill a mine in a few hours. Provided that the soil layer is soft.
If it is equipped with an electric motor, the drilling process will resemble drilling.

Flaws:

Not effective on boulders or hard rock.

Spoon

Used in conditions of wet clayey, low-flowing rock. It is made from a steel cylinder; steel sheets can be used. At the bottom there is a special compartment that has a spiral or longitudinal shape. The main working element is a spoon. During the rotation process, the cutting and vertical edges pick up soil. Thus, the earth fills the entire internal space of the cylinder.

Advantages:

It’s quite possible to make it yourself.
Unlike a spiral drill, a spoon drill will drill a hole in the ground much faster.
It is possible to automate the process when lifting a structure from the soil.

Flaws:

Need an assistant.
Serious labor costs.

Shock

It is suitable for different types of soil:

Soft.
Viscous.
Solid.
With boulders.

Depending on the type of soil, different impact tools are used. When drilling in soft soil - a wedge-shaped bit, in viscous soil - an I-beam bit, in hard soil - a cross bit, etc. The operating principle is the same as for cable drilling. The only difference is that the structure itself is located in the ground and its weight ranges from 0.5 to 2.5 tons. The blows are carried out with a special block. After a passage of half a meter, the bit is removed from the soil and cleared of soil.

Advantages:

Used for soil of different composition.
It is possible to drill through the Abyssinian spring in a short period of time.

Flaws:

The process of drilling a well is labor-intensive and requires additional equipment.
A drilling system (tripod) is required.
There is no way to do it without help.

Tools and materials

Depending on the type of manufacture of the homemade drilling structure, you may need the following:

Steel rod.
Metal pipe. The diameter is selected individually.
Coupling to connect the rod.
Circular saw for making cutters.
Thick strip of steel to form a screw.
Cable.
Metal sheet and so on.

Tools:

Bulgarian.
Welding machine.
Vise.
Hammer.
Hammer.
Drill.
Protective mask.
Metal circle and more.

How to make it yourself

We offer you several manufacturing instructions:

Spiral.
Lozhkovy.
Shock.

Spiral

You need to take a thick pipe. There will be a cutting element in its lower part. It is made from hard alloy. You will also need a metal strip to weld along the entire structure. It should have a spiral shape, so that the soil will be pushed out. Prepare:

A pipe of a given length with a thick wall.
A metal blade, suitable for a carpenter's saw. It would be good if its size immediately corresponded to the diameter of the future water well.

The build process looks like this:

The lower part of the pipe must be sharpened.
Apply a pointed tip to it and weld it.
Take the saw blade and cut it in half.
Weld both halves to the rod at an angle. From its end they should be at a distance of about 12.5 cm.
A coupling is welded on top and connected to the next rod.

Spoon

You should prepare:

A pipe with thick walls.
Welding machine.

When manufacturing, you can’t do without a diagram or drawing. According to it, a corresponding cut is made in the pipe. Next, you need to make a section, for example, with a powerful hammer or sledgehammer. The bottom of the pipe is well sharpened, along with the side edges. A drill with a diameter of up to 36 mm is welded along the longitudinal axis from below. A rod is attached to the top.

Advice! Before starting to make a homemade product, it is recommended to first harden the cutting edge.

Shock

First, you should study the project in the photo in this article and how to install the tripod. The height of the structure is up to three meters. A rope block must be attached to the top. Considering that the weight of the drill is serious, a winch is built. It is attached to a tripod.

A downhole drill uses a thick-walled pipe of considerable weight so that it can penetrate rock. The end definitely sharpens. There is a hole on top for attaching the rope.

Important! It is better to harden the lower part. This is significant, since it is subjected to serious loads. In addition to hardening, sharpening is performed to form teeth.

A radial hole is also made at the top of the pipe. This will allow you to remove the soil without much difficulty.

Before you start making a hand drill for a well, you need to ask yourself the following questions:

How deep will it be?
What is the nature of the soil: limestone, clay, crushed stone, rock, or other?
Is a mechanical unit necessary or will a simple manual one be used?
Are there roots in the soil?

These factors will determine what kind of home drilling system you make. If you don’t have time to make your own, you can purchase a small garden auger.

If you decide to drill, experts advise using to make digging easier. With its help, raising soil to the surface will be much easier. To increase the volume of soil lifted, a lever is built on a hill from a log/barrel. The drilling process is greatly simplified and accelerated several times.

Advice! A homemade drill will be useful on the farm all the time. They can be used to make small holes, for example, for the foundation of a fence, installation of a bench, a table on the street, etc. Therefore, it can be called universal.

How to make a homemade earth drill with a motor

If you are interested in a drill that works automatically with minimal human effort, then there are several ideas, for example from a chainsaw. In this case, you should do everything correctly so as not to harm yourself.

First of all, the engine power is calculated. The motor on the chainsaw has a large number of rpm If the drill rotates at such a speed, then it will be extremely difficult to control such a machine. Moreover, there is a serious load on the motor.

Advice! The optimal choice would be the Ural and Druzhba chainsaws. Their engines have low speeds, but they are quite powerful.

You can learn about all the details of this development by watching the prepared video. Here we talk in detail about how to make a chainsaw-based motor drill:

Plus, there are craftsmen who use a hammer drill motor when drilling small wells. In this case, it is important to make the correct nozzle and calculate the size of the drilling rig. Here you can also see the details of this miracle:

Should you make the design yourself or contact a company?

Of course, the use of homemade inventions has positive sides. For example, you can save a lot of money by making your own source. There are also many simple drawings and diagrams on how to make a drilling tool. However, all this has an obvious disadvantage - it is impossible to dig the source to great depth.

Therefore, if the water in the area is deep, it is better to contact a specialized company. Perhaps it will use hydraulic installations. In this case, you will need to think through everything down to the smallest detail:

Find the exact place with water.
Immediately determine the place for testing.
Discuss the cost of the work.
Set work deadlines, etc.

In any of the options, our material should help you in this difficult task.

Useful video

Manual hydraulic drill: