Fill the heated floor in the house. Do-it-yourself warm floor in a private house. Preparation and insulation of the surface under a water-heated floor

In terms of efficiency they are inferior to new ones, services central heating are constantly becoming more expensive. Therefore, consumers are looking for an alternative to how to make heated floors in a private house with autonomous economical heating.

This technology is more economical in terms of fuel costs, it allows you to remove bulky radiators, freeing up space for other useful elements interior Pipes under the floor covering do not damage appearance environment and do not interfere with cleaning the premises.

On the environmental side, heated floors provide ideal heat distribution for a person’s comfort. The space warms up well at a level of 1-1.5 m above the floor; higher up there is cooler air. Therefore, many are studying techniques on how to make heated floors in a private home. The simplicity of proven technologies allows you to make a heated floor with your own hands.

Types of heated floors

Long-term practice of using “warm floor” technology has shown its effectiveness: uniform distribution of heat over the entire area of ​​​​the room and. There are some restrictions: heating the flooring to more than 30-40 °C is not recommended, this will create some discomfort when walking, and you can burn your bare feet.

If there are a large number of rooms, high ceilings, especially in regions where low temperatures persist for long periods of the year, you should not rely entirely on a floor heating circuit. You can make a heated floor in your house with your own hands and use it as an additional source in the general heating system.

It is difficult to make a competent calculation of the heating system taking into account heat loss on your own. This is done by highly qualified heating engineers, and many parameters are taken into account:

  • room volume;
  • thickness and type of building materials of walls and flooring;
  • climate zone;
  • average annual temperature, wind roses and much more.

Such calculations are not cheap; it is easier to install a heated floor in a private house with your own hands, using already accumulated statistics. Practice shows that in the north of Russia in brick buildings with thickness load-bearing walls 60 cm warm floor is used as additional heating. In the middle zone and southern regions These technologies can be used as the main heating system.

There are two main designs of heated floors:

  • water heated floor, where pipes are laid with liquid coolant circulating through them;
  • heating elements are installed under the floor coverings electrical cables or films.

The exact calculation and layout of the circuit or heating cables are made taking into account what type of underfloor heating is installed and on what site.

Water heated floor heating central system mounting is not recommended, it is illegal. This issue needs to be coordinated with utility services, which is very difficult, and it is not a fact that everything will subsequently function reliably. It is better to make heated floors in the house from an autonomous boiler using its own fuel.

The installation of a heated floor and the calculation of the amount of heat required for the floor in a private house in a certain room are made based on practical experience. Laying cables or pipes 3-5 meters long per 1 m 2 in increments of no more than 30 cm allows the release of heat of 60-80 kW/m 2. This is enough to heat a residential private house. The premises are provided with a temperature of up to 25 °C in the middle zone and in the south of Russia with well-insulated walls and windows.

Water heated floors

The technology of water heated floors is effective in operation from an economic point of view. Payment costs are 20-30% less compared to a classic radiator system. But installation of the system is labor-intensive; the design contains a large number of expensive elements and connection units.

Essential elements:

  • Heating boiler: models can be electric, gas, liquid and solid fuel, hybrid options. The choice is made based on the cost and availability of energy resources in a particular region.

Warm floors in the house are especially in demand gas models, this is explained by the autonomy of this type of boiler. Gas in many regions of Russia is the most accessible and inexpensive fuel. The heating system of these boilers does not depend on central heating and water supply. It allows you to independently regulate power consumption and fuel consumption depending on your needs.

  • Pipes. 3-5 m are consumed per 1 m 2 of heated surface; these standards are determined by many years of practical experience. Popular models of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, durable heat-resistant products with a material density of 60-80%. To achieve these qualities it is used different ways processing.

When irradiated with an electron flow in a magnetic field, a density of 60% is achieved, treatment with peroxide creates a crosslinking density of 75%, and with selanium gas – 65%. In any case, this density is sufficient for laying heated floors.

A good option - metal-plastic pipes, durable and heat-resistant, have three load-bearing layers and two adhesive layers.


The inner and outer layers are cross-linked polyethylene, the middle layer is aluminum foil 0.2-2.5 mm, hermetically welded along the entire length.

  • Collector. It distributes the coolant along the circuits; this is the main heat mixing unit; all individual circuits are connected in it. A manifold is installed with as many thermal valves as there are in the circuit system. The length of the circuits is different, so the amount of coolant in them is not the same, the cooling time of the liquid in the circuits does not coincide. To maintain the set temperature, temperature sensors are installed in each circuit; they promptly control the servos, distributing hot and cooled flows in given directions.
  • Thermovent. A three-way mechanical valve is often used to distribute the intensity of hot and cooled flows. For automatic control, electric drives are installed on the valve.

  • Circulation pump. It is recommended to install a pump with a wet rotor; its impeller rotates and is lubricated by coolant, the operation is very quiet.

  • Coolant. This could be water, antifreeze or antifreeze.

Costs will be required for waterproofing materials, thermal insulation, cement screed and flooring.

Laying sequence

On the floor basements a preliminary screed is made on the ground, the surface is covered with sand to a depth of 5-7 cm, then with crushed stone 3-5 mm to a thickness of 8-10 cm. For vapor barrier, everything is covered with plastic film, a layer of 8-10 cm is applied on top river sand with fraction screening from 0.05 to 0.1 cm.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the preliminary screed. This can be bitumen-rubber mastic; it is applied with a brush. It is easier to use adhesive rolls based on bitumen with polymer ingredients. The structure of the sheets is reinforced with fiberglass or polyester. An insulating layer – extruded polystyrene foam (foam plastic) – is laid on top. The thickness of the insulating layer in basements is 10 cm or more; on upper floors 5-10 cm is sufficient.

It is very effective to use thin elastic insulation with a reflective surface. The structure of the rolls is made up of a polymer filled with air bubbles, or mineral wool, layer thickness from 2 to 50 mm.

The reflective layer, 14-20 microns, comes in several structure options:

  • double-sided – foil on both sides of the roll;
  • one-sided;
  • self-adhesive, with an adhesive surface on one side and foil on the other.

Heat-resistant metal-plastic pipes in the shape of a snake or snail are laid on the reflective insulation. Pipes are attached to special metal or plastic strips; often a metal mesh is applied to reinforce the screed and evenly distribute the load on the pipes.

The pipes are fixed to the mesh with plastic bundles, the wire on the mesh is Ø 3-4 mm, the mesh size is 5-10 cm. The concrete screed is applied 7-8 centimeters thick, it is carefully leveled, and after drying the floor covering is laid.

For heated floors, it is recommended to use a ceramic coating; it accumulates and transfers heat in the best way. When installing pipes on concrete slabs no pre-screed elements are made. The process begins with cleaning, leveling the surface and waterproofing, the rest of the operations are the same.

Can't do concrete screed on wooden floors, they may not support the weight and collapse. In wooden houses, hydro- and thermal insulation is installed on the floor, logs are nailed, between which pipes are laid. Boards, plywood, chipboard are placed on the logs, after which facing coating, parquet, laminate or other materials are applied.

Electric heated floor

Less equipment is required for the installation of this structure, and installation is simpler. The absence of coolant fluid greatly simplifies the entire heating system. For heating, a heating cable or infrared film is used, in electrical circuits they are connected through thermostats.

Laying heating cable and plates

In the absence of liquid coolant, waterproofing on the slabs can be eliminated, since there will be no chance of leakage. When laying on the ground, it is recommended to leave the preliminary screed and waterproofing. Such a warm, waterproofed floor in a private house will prevent the penetration of moisture from the ground into the room. Otherwise, the materials for the screed and the sequence remain the same.

The cables are laid in a similar way, like a snake or snail. To warm well-insulated rooms to +18-25 ̊C, 150-200 W/1m2 is required, if you take 3-5 m of cable per 1m2, the laying step will be 10-30 cm. The temperature threshold for rooms is calculated based on their functional purpose , in the bathroom it’s warmer – up to +25 ̊С, in the hall – +20 ̊С. Manufacturers make different cables; when purchasing, you need to ask how much power 1 linear meter consumes.

Infrared plates are produced in rolls of width 800 mm, 500 mm and 1 meter, length 0.7-15 m. They are fixed to the thermal insulation coating with thermal tape, laid 20 cm from the walls and no closer than 6 mm from each other, connected in parallel to 220V network.


The power consumption of the plates is 45-65 W/m 2 *h, this is the amount of electricity consumed by 1 m 2 of film per hour, the melting temperature of the insulating film on the plates is 130 ̊C. There are ready-made mats, insulation with a reflective layer attached to them on infrared plates, the width of such products is 83 cm, length is 1-12 m.

It is imperative to take into account the installation locations of furniture and large items. household appliances(washing machine, refrigerator, cabinets) indoors. It is not recommended to lay cables and plates under them.


Laying of heating cables and plates should be planned on the free surface of the floor covering. This will reduce the load on heat sources, and the space in the room will be heated more efficiently.

Connecting electrical heating elements

There are different types of cables:

  • Single-wire - not divided into parts, produced at a certain power and length. After installation, they are connected to the network through a thermostat, with opposite ends;

  • Two-wire cables are closed at one end, which is hermetically sealed with a plastic cap. The other end with two wires is connected to the network through a thermostat; the cable is not cut into pieces.

  • Two-wire self-regulating cable - cut into pieces in certain places. A film matrix located along the entire length between the copper conductors works as a thermostat. Resistance changes with temperature environment. Current begins to flow between the wires in places where the temperature is below +5 ̊C. The lower the temperature around the cable, the greater the current and heating of the cable. Such models are expensive.

Thermostats

Manufacturers offer many different types:

  • Mechanical (analog) regulators are the simplest and most reliable.

  • Digital - with liquid crystal displays, which display several parameters: the temperature of the floor covering, the air in the room, and sometimes the current time.

  • Digital programmable thermostats - allow you to set a specific temperature at different time day (day - night) or by day of the week. In the absence of people, the temperature drops and rises before arrival, this makes the operating mode more economical.
  • Thermostats with remote control can be controlled by a remote control in the infrared range, like on TVs, via a radio channel. More expensive models work over the GSM network, over the Internet online, and are controlled from an iPhone, tablet or PC, from any place where there is a cellular connection or cable Internet.

Thermostats differ in their controls: in mechanical models, the wire resistance is changed by a moving contact on a plastic disk in the device body.

In digital regulators, the resistance is changed by a microcircuit, which includes an electronic switching relay. Control can be carried out by mechanical buttons or touch segments on the display, as on mobile iPhones or tablets.

Regardless of the thermostat model, the control units are connected according to a typical scheme to elements with the same functional purpose:

  • to 220V network;
  • to the heating cable;
  • to one or more temperature sensors;
  • through grounding.

For safety reasons everything electrical systems heating system in a private household is connected to the network in the control panel through a short circuit protection circuit breaker and an RCD (touch protection device).

Bottom line

Technologies for installing heated floors include many various options installation To determine the appropriate method and the best materials, one must proceed from financial capabilities, take into account climatic conditions location of the facility and functional purpose of the premises.

Agree that it is incredibly pleasant to wake up in the morning and stand barefoot on a warm floor. Especially when it was snowing outside the window at that time. You go brew yourself a cup aromatic coffee, sit in front of the window and look at the snow-white landscapes. Do you want too? Then read the article below and find out how to make a heated floor in your private home.

Type of heated floors

If you have already purchased an underfloor heating system, skip this section and move on to the next one. For the rest, the information written here will be useful. There are two main types of heated floors:

  • Water;
  • Electric

Both have quite their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell separately on each of them.

From the name you can guess that the floor is heated using water. Indeed, pipes are laid under the flooring through which hot water circulates. It is worth noting that for private homes, this system is a more popular electric analogue. However, let's look at why.

So, the advantages of a water floor over its electric counterpart and a conventional radiator are:

  1. Comfort. The water floor does not dry out the air at all, and the heat is distributed evenly from floor to ceiling.
  2. Partial independence from electricity. If there is a sudden power outage, the floor will continue to produce heat for another one to two days. Despite the fact that the water circulation stops and the heating elements are turned off, the liquid takes a very long time to cool down.
  3. Radiators are dangerous and can cause serious burns. With a heated floor system this is absolutely impossible.
  4. Freedom of space. All heating components are located under the floor covering. Accordingly, the radiator can be thrown into the trash (or into the closet, if you are too frugal) and free up additional space.
  5. Compatible with other heaters. Merzlyaks will especially like this item. You can use heated floors in conjunction with other heating methods. It is worth noting that this also applies to electric floors.

An impressive list, isn't it? However, like everything that surrounds us, water-heated floors have their drawbacks, which you should be aware of.

  1. It was already mentioned above that floors take a long time to cool down. However, there is also the other side of the coin. They also take a long time to heat up. It will take them at least a day to reach the optimal temperature. Accordingly, install the system in country house, in which no one lives permanently, there is no point.
  2. The next drawback is a little off topic. But if the article is read by apartment owners in multi-storey building, the following information will come in handy. So, installing a water floor in such housing is prohibited. This is due to the fact that the level of hydraulic resistance increases.
  3. Difficult installation compared to electronic analogues. More on this a little later.
  4. If a hole appears in heating pipe, it is unlikely that it will be possible to identify a specific place. Therefore, you will have to disassemble the entire floor covering.

After this, you can draw any conclusions. However final choice worth doing after describing electric floors.

In contrast to the system described above, there are 3 types of electric heated floors:

  1. Heating cable. Simple system, but requires a screed to be installed on top of it.
  2. Special mats. The same cable, only on a special grille. Costs more, but there is no need to carry out complete renovation and make a screed.
  3. Heating film (infrared heating). Installs directly under the floor covering and consumes less electricity. However, in rooms with a large area, such a system is less effective.

Now let's look at the main advantages of such floors:

  1. Such a heating system does not dry out the air and creates a favorable microclimate even for people with lung disease.
  2. The room begins to heat up within minutes after switching on.
  3. Maintaining and changing the temperature is quite easy. There is a special thermostat for this. In the case of water floors, it is also present, however, to change the temperature it will take a much longer period of time than here.

Now the disadvantages, or rather the disadvantage. Yes, there is only one, but for some it is very significant. It consists of increased energy consumption. For 1 sq.m. Approximately 110–150 W are consumed. However, with the help of temperature controllers this figure can be reduced to 70–100 W.

Perhaps that’s all of the real downsides. Of course, it can be noted that many people talk about harmful radiation from heating mats. However, in reality this is not supported by anything.

So, all the pros and cons of each system are revealed. Now you can make a choice, go to the store and read the following sections.

Have you chosen a water floor? Wonderful. However, it is worth remembering that for its installation you will need to make a concrete screed. Is it possible to do it in wooden house? Absolutely not. However, there is a way out and it will be described a little later.

Installation in a brick and concrete house
First, let's look at the classic installation option. So, before laying pipes, an additional series of measures should be taken.

  1. First, the main surface of the floor is leveled and cleared of debris. Next, the coating is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Thick polyethylene, the seams of which are glued with double-sided tape, is suitable for this.
  2. Probably everyone wants the system to have high heat transfer and be directed only upward, that is, to heat the room. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation is laid on polyethylene (foil side up). For more convenient installation, it is recommended to choose stiffer materials.
  3. Then damper tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. It will protect the future screed as much as possible from shrinking during drying.
  4. After this, you can start laying out the pipes. This should be done strictly according to the instructions so that unexpected troubles do not arise in the future.
  5. Then comes the connection to the distributor. Before pouring screed, the system must be checked for possible problems and holes in the pipes.
  6. And finally, the final stage. The floor is poured with concrete screed, carefully leveled and left to dry completely.

Installation in a wooden house
In principle, there are few differences. The main thing is that instead of screeds, special modular systems, on which the pipes are attached. And on top there is a thin protective layer and the floor covering is laid out.

Installation of this system is carried out after the final leveling of the floor base and its thorough cleaning of dust and debris. Everything else is quite similar to the previous version. The base is covered with a layer of heat and waterproofing. Foam plastic 5-10 cm thick with the addition of a heat-reflecting foil layer is ideal for thermal insulation.

After this, heating elements are installed. For each type, the installation features are slightly different; you can see them in the instructions included with the product. Do not forget that it is advisable to install the system only in those parts of the room where there will be no furniture.

Then a reinforced screed is laid out, followed by tile adhesive. Finally, the floor covering is installed. Do not forget that you need to run a thermostat from the cable to the wall. The cable heated floor is filled with cement screed and left for 30 days. Only after a month can you begin operating the system. However, you need to start with low temperatures, gradually raising it. If the film method of floor heating was chosen, we do without a screed. The finishing floor covering is installed directly on the heating elements.

There are several ways to heat the floor and the house as a whole. Which one to choose is up to you. Based on the stated pros and cons of each, you will surely do right choice. And based on the instructions for the product and this article, the floor will be installed correctly and will last for many years.

Video: heated floors - pros and cons

Today, water-heated floors are a very popular heating option for private homes. In addition to high efficiency, this design has many advantages, including the possibility of radically changing the interior by eliminating classic radiators. Despite the many advantages, hydraulic system heated floors have one significant drawback - the complexity of installation, which increases the estimated cost of water heating in a private house several times.

Make it cheaper this system heating (CO) is possible if all stages of creation are completed on your own. This publication will discuss issues related to preparatory work and creating a hydraulic heated floor with your own hands.

Preparing the base

Proper preparation of the surface for laying a heated floor coil provides half the success in implementing this type of heating system in a private home.

  • If the base is a floor slab, then preparatory work includes cleaning the surface, leveling with cement-sand or specialized mixtures. If the surface of the base is wooden, then the algorithm of work is as follows: cleaning from dirt and debris, stuffing sheets of plywood or chipboard for leveling. If you plan to lay the coil on the ground, then preliminary operations are carried out: creating a layer of sand and crushed stone, compacting with a vibrating plate, leveling. In some cases, it is recommended to create a rough reinforced base.
  • The second stage of preparing the base is waterproofing. Heating in the floor in a private house cannot be carried out without an appropriate waterproofing layer. The materials for its creation can be: mastics, bituminous materials, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 100 microns.

    Important! After laying the waterproofing along the entire perimeter of the room, a damper tape is attached, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the floor when heated.

    The third stage is insulation. This event is intended to ensure that the heat from the coil does not go deep into the floor.

    Advice: If you plan to organize this CO, only as an additional one, then it is enough to use a substrate under the heated water floor made of foamed polyethylene with a foil coating. If a warm floor is planned above a heated room, then 50 mm thick polystyrene foam sheets are used as insulation. If a water heated floor is created on the ground or above an unheated basement, then the insulation layer should be from 50 to 100 mm.

  • The fourth stage of preparing the base is reinforcement, which is necessary for attaching the pipeline and fixing the screed. The thickness of the screed for water heated floors varies depending on the design and materials. Optimal thickness“pies from 70 to 130 mm.

    Construction and constituent elements systems

    Let's consider the classic scheme of a water-heated floor with a connection to an autonomous heat generator. This design comprises:

    1. Boiler unit.

      Important! It should be understood that the temperature of the coolant in the central CO varies from 70 to 90°C. To avoid failure of the circuit, direct connection to the central heating pipe is not recommended. Even if the piping material and fittings can withstand high temperature, think about moving comfortably on floors with temperatures above 60°C!

    2. The expansion tank is a closed type.
    3. Pressure gauge.
    4. A pump that circulates coolant in the circuit. This device can be included in the design of a boiler installation.
  • Coil piping.
  • In addition, to independently create a water heated floor you will need: ball valves installed at the inlet of the heat generator; circulation pump (may be included in the boiler unit design); pipes and fittings for laying the route and connecting the coil to the collector, the number of which is calculated individually, based on the layout and design of the given CO.

    The heated floor circuit can be connected from an autonomous heat generator (gas electric or solid fuel). If the house is provided with heating from a central heating supply, then if you have permits, you can quite simply connect the heated floor from the heating with your own hands. Recently, boilers have become quite popular sources of thermal energy. indirect heating or instantaneous water heater.

    The main conditions for using a particular heat source are sufficient performance, efficiency and safety. The required power of the boiler unit can be calculated using the algorithm: to heat a 10 m 2 brick private house with double plastic windows, 1 kW of heat generator power is required.

    Advice: Not all houses are insulated according to European standards (heat loss no more than 40 W/m2). In addition, a lot depends on the region of residence. Based on this, for houses in the northern regions and poorly insulated buildings, experts recommend increasing the design power of the heating installation by 20-30%.

    Pipes

    The materials for creating a water heated floor for heating a private house are: metal-plastic, reinforced polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene. Recently, polyethylene pipes, which do not have high linear expansion values ​​when heated, have good tightness and thermal conductivity, have earned recognition from experts. The diameter of the pipe should be between 16-20 mm. In addition, the pipe for the water floor must have the following characteristics:

    • Thermal conductivity more than 0.43 W/m 0 C;
    • The expansion coefficient is not higher than 0.025 mm/m;
    • Working pressure – 10 Bar;
    • Operating temperature 95°C.

    You can calculate the required amount of pipe using the table below:

    Pump

    As already written above, today most modern heat generators are equipped with a circulation pump, and it is necessary to purchase it only if it is not included in the equipment.

    The main condition for choosing this device is performance. You can choose the right circulation pump using the table below:

    The manifold for heating and underfloor heating is a pipe with a number of outlets. This splitter is designed to connect several heating circuits (including underfloor heating) to the supply and return of the main line of an autonomous CO. This design uses two such devices: one for distributing hot coolant, the second for collecting cooled water from the kennel. The manifold also includes air vents, the necessary valves and taps designed to regulate the performance of this CO.

    When choosing of this device it is necessary to determine the number of outlets sufficient for all heating circuits. If you are willing to pay for full automation of the process of operating a heated floor as part of a heating system, then pay attention to models equipped with servo drives on valves and mixers. Do not neglect the collector box, the dimensions of which are selected in accordance with the dimensions of all equipment included in the collector group.

    For a clearer understanding of the manifold assembly process, we recommend watching the video

One of the options for heating a private home is to install heated floors. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living spaces from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The design of a heated floor cannot be called complex, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a heated floor in a private house with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out due to pipes located under the floor covering, through which heated coolant circulates, or through electric heating elements.

As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the home.

Among positive qualities warm floors, the following stand out most clearly:

  1. High level of comfort. A floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot without fear of any discomfort.
  2. Economical. Savings when using heated floors are achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from bottom to top and heats only the volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. There are no extra expenses.
  3. Ability to adjust temperature conditions. It is strongly recommended to equip a heated floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within user-specified limits.
  4. Easy to install. Installing heated floors is a fairly simple task, especially if we're talking about about the electrical version of the system. The water circuit is more difficult to lay out, but even if desired, it is quite possible to install it yourself.

There are also disadvantages:

  1. High cost. To install a heated floor, you will need a lot of materials, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce costs - to do all the heating installation yourself.
  2. Reducing the volume of the room. The thickness of a heated floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then this will not cause any special problems (unless you have to redo the thresholds).
  3. Demands on flooring. You can cover a heated floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed for use in combination with heated floors. An unsuitable coating will not allow the system to operate effectively, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their failure as a result of overheating.

The advantages of heated floors are significant, and the disadvantages are not critical, so such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.

Preparation of the base for all types and options of heated floors

One of essential elements is the basis for a heated floor in a private house, which must be prepared even before installing the heating system itself. There are a number of requirements for the base - it must be strong enough, even and not allow heat to pass through. Each requirement is important, but it is thermal insulation that requires special attention - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various pipe insulations are used, which must be selected for specific conditions.

The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following steps:

  1. Dismantling. The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports. All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
  2. Marking. Using a building level along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be leveled. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient to effectively retain heat.
  3. Bedding. The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The sand cushion must be compacted after backfilling.
  4. Waterproofing. A waterproofing material is laid on the compacted sand layer (polyethylene is the cheapest, but a waterproofing membrane is a more reliable option).
  5. Arrangement of beacons. Now you need to install the supports on which the beacon profiles will be located. The beacons need to be very accurately leveled.
  6. Laying thermal insulation. All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
  7. Filling the screed. Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can begin pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
  8. Alignment. When the screed has set a little, the beacons need to be removed and the resulting holes must be sealed. The seams are rubbed down, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely hardened.

In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:

  • Polystyrene boards, which are usually reinforced with reinforcing mesh and attached to the base with anchors to increase strength;
  • Rolled foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
  • Polymer mats designed specifically for laying water-heated floors, for which purpose the material has special protrusions between which pipes are laid.

Do-it-yourself water heated floor installation

Exist different variants heated floors in a private house, but the most popular type are water ones. Structurally, such heating is a pipeline system laid under the floor covering through which hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system or directly to a heat source.


Water heated floor includes the following elements:

  1. Pipes. For arranging heated floors, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. Both materials have good thermal conductivity and a low coefficient of thermal expansion.
  2. Collector. This element is necessary for the formation of proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate terminals. Inexpensive manifolds only have shut-off ball valves, while good devices are equipped with a valve that allows you to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
  3. Circulation pump. The pump ensures normal circulation of coolant in heated floors. If the heating equipment has a built-in circulation pump, then there is no need for a separate device.
  4. Damper tape. This tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from foamed polymers.
  5. Fasteners. If installation is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of pipe fastenings. In all other cases, special brackets equipped with locks and anchors will be required.

Laying pipes in a private house

In order for a water heated floor to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. There is no point in saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor areas, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.


Total pipe length for one room is calculated using the following formula:

  • D = S / M * k, where
  • D – total length of pipes,
  • S – room area,
  • M – laying step,
  • k – safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.

Usually for 1 sq.m. The room area requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.


An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:

  1. "Snake". Good option for small rooms. Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes remains virtually unchanged throughout the entire circuit.
  2. "Snail" and "double snake". These layout options are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Thanks to the close location of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
  3. Circuit including several circuits. For complete and efficient heating of large rooms, it is most advisable to equip several separate circuits that will provide good heat transfer and will be quite reliable.

Installation of water heated floor

Water heated floors in a private house are installed using the following technology:

  1. Collector installation. The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
  2. Installation of damper tape. The tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where the heating circuit will be located. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
  3. Reinforcement. You need to lay it on a layer of thermal insulation reinforcing mesh, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
  4. Pipe installation. The water circuit pipes unwind, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the selected scheme and fixed using brackets or clamps.
  5. Connection to the collector. All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with coolant. The water circuit must be left in working condition for two days to check for leaks.
  6. Filling the screed. A regular cement screed is poured over the water-filled system, which must be left until it hardens completely (usually this takes about a month). When the solution has completely dried, it will be possible to start the heating in operating mode. Starting the system prematurely is likely to damage the concrete layer.

Design and types of electric heated floors

If it is necessary to install heated floors in a separate room, then an electric heating system will be more relevant. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.


There are the following types of electric heated floors:

  1. Film. Most popular look heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon plates fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
  2. Cable. This type of heater is based on a cable with high resistance, due to which, when current passes, the product generates thermal energy. The laying step of cable heaters can be varied, thereby influencing the intensity of heating of the room.
  3. Rod. Main structural element are carbon rods connected by wires into a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type of electric heaters. Read also: "How to make an electric heated floor with your own hands - types of heated floors, installation rules."

Installation of film heated floors

Film heated floors are the most common system, which is largely due to the ease of installation.

An electric heated floor in a private house is installed from scratch using the following technology:

  1. Laying reflective material. It is strongly recommended to lay heat-reflecting foil material under the heated film floor, which will prevent heat from passing into the underground space.
  2. Open the films. It is advisable to cut the film as small as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. The film can be cut only along the cut lines drawn on it - this avoids damage to the internal elements of the material.
  3. Film laying. The prepared heating elements are laid out on the base and leveled. You can secure the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to secure the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
  4. Connecting strips. In areas where the conductive path is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
  5. Contact insulation. Each contact and area where the strips were cut must be carefully insulated. A good option insulation are butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the heated floor elements. With such plates the contacts are simply crimped.
  6. Connecting the thermostat. The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, following the instructions on its body or in the instructions. The system must be turned on and make sure that all bands are working.
  7. Flooring installation. If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.

Conclusion

It is very easy to install a heated floor - all types of heated floors in a private house can be easily assembled with your own hands. The finished system will ensure complete heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.


The owners of a private house provide installation of water heated floor. Whether it will be in one room or in the entire cottage at once depends on family budget and the wishes of the owners. But its advantages are difficult to overestimate - during operation, you can forget about warm socks and colds in children and adults. If all cash spent on construction, but the dream of a warm field does not leave the owners, they need to roll up their sleeves and get to work themselves. Installation will require a little time, minimal construction skills and useful information.

What is heated flooring in a private house?

Make a warm water floor with your own hands- is to create an artificial heating system that heats the air from below. In this case, the floor serves heating device, supporting a given temperature regime. It provides thermal comfort and meets all process requirements.

When installing floor heating in a private house, the following heating options are mainly considered:

  • Electric floor;
  • Electric water floor;
  • Classic water floor using pipes and a boiler.

The latter type of residential heating is used most often in construction. Its main advantage is cost-effectiveness during design, use and possible elimination problems. Let's consider the main advantages of a water floor:

  1. Safety. Hot pipes are insulated from humans by several layers building materials- the possibility of getting a skin burn is excluded.
  2. Saving. Electricity consumption is reduced by 25-30%. The cost of installing a warm water floor pays off within a year.
  3. Convenience and comfort. Using the regulator, owners can set the optimal temperature regime: at a level of 20-30 cm from the floor - 20-22°C, at a level of 1.5 m - 18-28°C.
  4. Durability. Right installed system heating system can function without repair and Maintenance 25-40 years.

The main disadvantage of a water floor is possibility of waterproofing failure for self-installation. What other disadvantages does the heating system have:

  • Inaccessibility. If a pipe burst occurs, the entire floor will have to be opened to eliminate the violation.
  • Installation of additional equipment. It will be necessary to purchase radiators when installing heated floors in only one room.

Three ways to install a warm water floor

Before you begin installing a heated floor yourself, you need to choose a method that will best suit the design of the house and the construction skills of its owner. There are three system options: polystyrene, wood, concrete.

During construction wooden system you can save a lot and use materials left over after building a house: boards, MDF boards, pieces of plywood.

Construction stages:

  1. Placed on a wooden floor base wooden blocks 15 cm long, leaving between them a distance corresponding to the diameter of the pipes;
  2. The next layer will be thermal distribution plates, which are secured with screws. The grooves of the plate should fit tightly into the space between wooden beams;
  3. A dense polyethylene film is laid on top of the structure;
  4. The final stage- fastening plasterboard sheets.

When choosing thermal distribution plates in a hardware store, you should pay attention to the presence of a latch. When using it, the contact of the surfaces of all structural elements will be as close as possible, and this will directly affect the volume of heat transfer.

The polystyrene system is most suitable for self-installation warm water floor. Polystyrene thermal insulation boards are equipped with special latches for reliable adhesion. By laying interlocking slabs on a wooden base, a solid structure with a flat surface is obtained.

Pipes are laid in the grooves of the slab. The use of fasteners is not required - the pipe is fixed with light pressure until it is completely inserted into the groove. All that remains is to lay the metal plates on top and everything is ready for installation of the floor covering.

The concrete system is most often used due to its relative cheapness, availability of materials and reliability.

Sequence of laying layers:

  1. Sand and cement screed;
  2. Waterproofing material;
  3. Thermal insulation material;
  4. Heating system pipes;
  5. Reinforcing mesh and (or) plastic fastenings;
  6. A mixture of concrete with plasticizers;
  7. Flooring.

This method is suitable for home owners who have previously worked with concrete and have necessary equipment for its manufacture.

List of required materials

Before you make a water heated floor with your own hands, you need to take a responsible approach to the choice of components. First, when purchasing materials, ask the seller to show certificates for the products. Secondly, before visiting the store, make a list of the necessary building materials, then you will not buy extra pipes or fasteners. Here's what you'll need when installing a heating system:

  • Damper tape. This is foamed polyethylene to compensate for thermal expansion. Placed between the edges of the screed and the wall. It has thermal insulation and noise insulation properties.
  • Thermal insulation materials . Now there is a huge selection of materials for thermal insulation in any price categories. When installing a water floor, you can use sheet polystyrene foam. Together with the damper tape, polystyrene foam will ensure optimal heat transfer from the heating system pipes.
  • Waterproofing materials. Thick polyethylene film prevents unwanted leakage. When styling, try to use whole piece material. If the room area is large, then the edges of the film must be secured with tape.
  • Fine mesh reinforcing mesh. The mesh size should be 150 square meters. mm, rod cross-section 4 mm. The material is used to give strength to the screed and fasten pipes.
  • Pipes. If a quality certificate guarantees integrity for 20 years or more, you can confidently make a purchase regardless of the material from which the product is made. For good heat transfer, pipes with a diameter of 2 cm are suitable.
  • Fastenings. Selecting fasteners is not difficult - hardware stores have plastic or metal ones of all shapes and sizes.

Materials for water heated floors must be selected depending on the installation method.

Before visiting a hardware store, check that all tools are in stock. When conducting installation work You can't do without a drill and a screwdriver.

Design and calculation of heated floor parameters

If you are not sure that you can independently design the structure of a warm water floor or calculate the number of pipes in meters, you can resort to the help of specialists or make calculations using computer programs. But there shouldn’t be any difficulties, here are some tips:

  • You cannot make one floor contour more than 100 m; excessive length will negatively affect its integrity.
  • The length of the circuit components should not differ by more than 10-12 m. It is better to use equal sections of pipes when installing the circuit.
  • The warmer the winter in your place of residence, the greater the distance between the pipes should be. If during the coldest period the thermometer does not fall below - 20°C, then optimal distance between pipes is 15 cm. In severe winter conditions, pipes should be spaced 10 cm apart.

When conducting correct calculations You should get the following parameters: with a distance between the pipes of 15 cm, one square meter 6.5 m of pipes will be consumed, and with a step of 10 cm - 9.9 m.

Installation of a water floor

How to make a water-heated floor yourself: all materials and tools are at hand - you can begin installation. Builders call the combination of layers of a water floor structure a “pie,” so we need to assemble it.

Preparation and insulation of the surface under a water-heated floor

How to install a water-heated floor: first of all, you need clean the surface from construction waste And make a concrete screed using a reinforcing wall. The quality of the screed is checked using a level - if the surface is defective, it is leveled with a trowel. Let's form the cake next:

  • Thermal insulation layer;
  • Waterproofing layer;
  • Another layer of reinforcing mesh.

All materials used, regardless of the chosen installation method, must be tightly fitted at the edges to each other. If gaps have formed at the joints, you can remove them using tape (when using film) or polyurethane foam.

Collector selection and installation

When selecting a collector, be guided by the size of the room where the heated floor will be located and the power of the unit. The collector must perform the following functions:

  • Maintain the required pressure;
  • Control air flow;
  • Provide control of water flow;
  • Ensure reliability of the entire system;
  • Control the heating - heated floors should not cool down.

It is best to purchase a collector from brass or of stainless steel , equipped with a shut-off valve and temperature sensor. When installing, first connect the water supply pipes to the unit, and only then the water outflow pipes. You can use special fittings or a clamp ring with sleeve and nut.

Selecting a heating boiler

When choosing a boiler, you need to focus on the following models:

  • Electric boilers. Most convenient option when installing a heated floor: even if there is no electricity, the boiler will not stop working.
  • Gas boilers . The cheapest model in terms of cost and fuel price. Disadvantage - the floors will be cold if the gas line runs out.
  • Boilers running on diesel fuel. Not suitable for home owners who care about the environment. In addition, you will need to constantly clean the filters.

You can make a heated water floor with your own hands in a private house using boilers that burn wood and coal. If there is a lot of such fuel in your area and it is inexpensive, then you can purchase such a unit.

Pipe installation

Using clamps (or aluminum wire), secure the pipes to the reinforcing mesh. When installing a water floor, the fastenings must not be tightened - under pressure hot water the pipes expand slightly and may vibrate. You need to start installing a water heated floor system with water supply pipes. Then the circuit segments are attached to each other, and lastly the collector is connected.

Before installation, it is necessary to calculate the number of outputs at the collector. This is exactly how many contours there should be on the surface of the screed.

Filling the screed

How to lay a water-heated floor under a screed - before pouring the screed, check the system. To do this, you will need to turn on the heating and supply water at a pressure of 2.7 bar. If the waterproofing is not damaged within several hours, everything is done correctly.

Left make a cement-sand screed. Fill the voids with concrete and level the surface using a building level. The installation of the water floor is completed.

  1. Please note that only owners of private houses have the right to install such a heating system. In many regions of our country there is a ban on the conversion of water supply systems in apartments. Incorrect installation water floor can lead to leakage: neighbors apartment building will remain in winter period no heating. At best, you can get away with a fine, at worst, you can pay major renovation damaged premises.
  2. When installing a water system, it is necessary to provide for the final floor covering: marble, granite, basalt have excellent thermal conductivity - the house will always be comfortable. But the wooden floors and carpets poorly distributes heat from heating element. In addition, the wood will dry out, and synthetic carpets can emit harmful substances into the surrounding space.
  3. The quality of the heated floor installation will be higher if you level its base as much as possible. The total number of irregularities on the surface should vary within 5 mm.