From the author: We are glad to welcome readers who are thinking about how to make their home beautiful and original. Simple and in an accessible way change the design of the room is installation suspended ceiling with your own hands. In addition, this will help improve the soundproofing of the room and add coziness to it. Modern views plasterboard ceilings allow you to choose a design option that best suits your taste. Want to know more about this? Then read on!
The secret of the popularity of drywall
Drywall - finishing material, which is very popular due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and low time investment in creating any decorative detail with its help. In addition to the listed properties, plasterboard sheets They are also fire resistant and not afraid of moisture. Level the surface of walls, create arches or niches in a room, hide wires or other communications, create any form of structure - a lot is possible with the help of this building material.
Plasterboard sheets also have disadvantages, which include their fragility and inability to withstand heavy weights. Therefore, builders do not recommend attaching anything heavy to surfaces finished with this building material. You should carry out the transportation and installation of gypsum boards very carefully so that they do not crack or become deformed.
Drywall has breathable properties, since the G-4 gypsum used for its manufacture is able to absorb excess moisture and, conversely, release it in dry air. The gypsum core is covered with cardboard for cladding, for better bonding These materials use special adhesive additives.
Certain substances are added to the plasterboard sheets obtained in this way, enhancing certain of their properties (fire resistance, moisture resistance). Choose gypsum boards in accordance with the characteristics of the room in which you will install the suspended ceiling.
Varieties of design options
You determine what the finished suspended ceiling should look like, based on the size of the room, its purpose, and operating features. There are several main varieties with which you can realize your ideas. Let's take a closer look at each type.
Single-level
Such ceilings can act as either ready-made interior elements or the basis for the subsequent installation of a multi-level structure. To create a single-level ceiling, basic construction skills are sufficient; the main thing here is to firmly attach the metal or wooden frame closer to the base.
In any construction work Technology is always important; it is this that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the repair result. But, often, builders make technological mistakes, some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's look at the main mistakes using the example of working with a metal profile.
1. Violations of frame installation technology
Failure to follow the technology with metal profiles or the profiles not matching their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for profiles for curved ceiling surfaces.
By to this photo it is clear that the master, unfortunately, in principle does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers; the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the sheets of drywall are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this design will be flimsy, and the fastening of the drywall will be unreliable, which will lead to the appearance of a crack after repair.
2. Errors when cutting profiles
For uniform cutting of profiles for installation purposes curved structures Under no circumstances should you use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, and in addition, the galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which in the future this place will be susceptible to corrosion. The work of cutting metal profiles should be performed only with special metal scissors (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.
3. Wrong selection of profile
A common mistake among builders of various qualifications is when the structure of the box for partitions is made from ceiling profile, instead of rack-mount (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).
The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately comes into question.
Using a ceiling profile to frame partitions is a complete divergence from technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.
4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame
When building a suspended ceiling, builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what should the frame be secured to? In the best case, it is concrete, but if it is wood or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise, as in the photo. In this case, builders in some places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.
As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the supporting profile without a two-level connector. The supporting profile itself is pressed to the boards, also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that, over time, cracks will inevitably form along the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The scheme is also broken frame, - step profiles are chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. If the technology is followed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be mounted on special perforated or spring hangers. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).
5. Bending the profile walls
A striking example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers the profile was simply bent.
And here, the supporting crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also turned horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.
This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is compromised, as the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.
6. Fixing the gypsum board sheet with the wrong side
Some builders consider the question of which side to fix the drywall to be unimportant - the front or the back? The photograph shows how, when covering a wall with gypsum board sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side facing out. The peculiarity of this plasterboard is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet in wet rooms, as well as the formation of fungus.
7. Error in attaching drywall sheets
Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is its improper fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in staggered order that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is low quality cladding. Sheets must be taken to the maximum bigger size, and do not join small pieces over an area of 1 sq/m.
Even experienced craftsmen It’s worth improving your knowledge, for example, at the KNAUF Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems made of gypsum plasterboard and profiles is associated with adherence to technology!
Most builders note that when renovating an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling from plaster or any other material.
Interfering fast execution work and the unevenness of various tiled floors, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details. It is quite difficult to hide all these shortcomings today. And it’s not so much difficult as it is expensive.
This article will discuss step-by-step instruction for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has great amount advantages ranging from ease of installation to reasonable prices.
What tools will you need?
If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quickly installing the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.
To install yourself two-level ceiling from plasterboard you will need:
- A water-type level in order to accurately mark the place where the guide level will be installed.
- For quick drilling various holes any hammer drill.
- Scissors that can be used to cut metal.
- "Bulgarian".
- Screwdriver for fastening gypsum boards, as well as profiles.
- Roll
Frame installation
The first thing to do is to choose a place for future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Marks should be applied after the water in all containers is at the same level.
Exactly how many centimeters to retreat from the construction ceiling is up to you, but most builders suggest looking at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.
After completing the first stage of work, that is, after markings have been made on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for dowels. A hammer drill is used for this.
After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure, you need to make marks right along the perimeter with an average interval of approximately 60 cm.
If you want to do enough simple design, consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to mark only on two opposite sides.
After this, you can proceed to attaching the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct hangers, you can proceed to installing the ceiling profile and then covering the ceiling with sheets.
Ceiling decoration
Today we offer a huge number of the most in various ways ceiling decoration. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry, you can find many different decorative materials which will allow you to decorate the ceiling.
Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Some people prefer plaster modeling, while others are delighted with foam moldings.
You should not pay attention to various fashion trends, since they quickly pass, but you will definitely have to live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.
It is important that the ceiling gives you exceptional joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of comfort in the room.
Once you have decided what your ideal ceiling looks like after renovation, it is important to evaluate whether you can afford it. financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the store building materials and choose what will quickly make your dreams come true perfect ceiling into reality.
There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using plasterboard.
You just need to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even for five years.
Note!
Photo of a plasterboard ceiling
Note!
Economical and easy to install, LED strip is widely used for lighting decoration of ceilings. And in most cases, such decor involves constructing a niche made of plasterboard under LED backlight– a special ledge on which the lighting elements will be placed.
In our article we will describe the technology for manufacturing such suspended ceiling parts, and also tell you in just a few words about the features of connecting LED lighting.
Materials and tools
A plasterboard niche for LED lighting is a specially shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the elements of a multi-level ceiling.
Examples of such design solutions you can see in the photo in this article.
It is also possible to manufacture recesses in the wall with decorative lamps. True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used; spotlights are more often used.
To build such a structure we will need:
- Drywall (regular or moisture resistant).
- Profile (starting and main).
- Ceiling direct suspensions.
- Fastening elements (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for profiles and plasterboard).
Among the tools with which we will create a design for plasterboard lighting, we will need:
- Hammer or hammer drill with a pobedit drill.
- Screwdriver.
- Screwdriver attachment for working with plasterboard.
- Metal scissors.
- Pliers.
- Assembly knife.
- Screwdrivers.
- Set of tools for putty and finishing GKL.
All these tools should be at hand - only then can we start working.
Installation of a cornice for LED strip
Frame assembly
Cornice made of gypsum plasterboards for installation LED strip mounted on a special frame. To make the frame we use galvanized metal profiles, used to assemble the lathing of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.
Note! The structure can be mounted either on a permanent ceiling or on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.
We assemble the lathing according to the following scheme:
- Using a level, draw a horizontal baseline on the walls. The line distance from the ceiling should be 7–10 cm.
- Along the perimeter of the room along the base line we attach the starting profile for the gypsum board.
- Having retreated 150-200 mm from the wall, we attach the same starting profile to the ceiling, forming an internal perimeter.
- We attach sections of the main profile to the starting profile on the ceiling every 40-50 cm. The length of the segments should be equal to the distance from the ceiling base to the base line.
- We connect the wall starting profile with hangers from the main profile using 300 mm long panel sections. The projections are 150 mm and will be the main one for the load-bearing cornice.
- Frames of large dimensions can be further strengthened with panels of the main profile, securing them to the bottom side.
Note! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring to connect electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to vertical posts using clamps.
Profile covering
When the frame is assembled, you can begin covering it with gypsum board sheets.
You are most likely already familiar with the technology of sheathing from numerous videos on our website, so here are only general instructions:
- We cut a narrow strip from a sheet of plasterboard and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
- If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, we roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
- We sew a gypsum board strip on bottom part, forming the foundation of our structure.
Exist different types plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.
With an open one, you can immediately install electrical appliances on the ledge, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:
- Closed niches made of plasterboard with lighting are equipped with a special side that directs the light to the ceiling (see also the article about).
- To form it, we attach a starting profile to the edge of the gypsum board protrusion and fix a strip of gypsum board up to 50 mm high to it.
- On outside corner we glue a special plastic or metal overlay, which should protect the plasterboard sheathing from damage.
After the frame is formed and sheathed with gypsum board, it can be puttyed and finished (painted, plastered, wallpapered). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - installing the LED strip with our own hands.
Connecting the backlight
Before installing LEDs in a plasterboard niche, the tape must be prepared:
- From the coil of tape we cut off a fragment of the length we need. You only need to cut the tape in places that have special markings.
- If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also simply solder the contacts using a soldering iron.
Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.
- We connect the LED lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% greater than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
Of course, the price of such a power supply will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.
- To connect color lighting we use a special RGB controller.
- Checking functionality assembled system. If everything lights up the way we want, we can stick the tape on the cornice.
- We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the sheathing.
Summarizing
A properly equipped plasterboard niche for lighting can radically transform appearance premises. So if you are interested in lighting decor, we hope this article will be useful to you!
Photo gallery
Under the influence of trends familiar to everyone " Housing issue“built a ledge from plasterboard and columns from stone.
The project was drawn like this. After the arches, this project seemed like child's play :)
In fact, it turned out to be such a protrusion.
I made a groove from the switch box to the ceiling. A wire was laid into this groove to connect the backlight.
I marked the axis of the entire structure and, on both sides of the axis, drew with a pencil the outline of the protrusion on the wall and ceiling. I built a frame from metal profiles and sheathed it.
The profiles were placed taking into account the holes for the lamps. Those. profiles are located between the holes for the lamps.
I puttyed and sanded with fine sandpaper 3 times. I did not glue the flexible corner onto the corner of the protrusion.
I chose the following arrangement of lamps: a large lamp in the center of the ledge and two small lamps located on both sides of the large lamp. A total of 5 spotlights were used to illuminate the ledge.
We mark the contours of the columns on the wall and attach the artificial stone with stripes in a checkerboard pattern using tile adhesive.
This is how the column turns out. I ordered three square meters of stone. Little remained after the construction of the structure.
Part central column did not fill with artificial stone. This is where the TV mount will be located. I made sockets for power at the bottom.
I had to pull the “zero” from the socket into the protrusion to connect the transformer. Again, he additionally scored. I had to tinker with the lighting.
Selecting wallpaper to match the stone was not such an easy task...
This is what happened as a result.