Growing garden roses: care technology. Caring for the queen of flowers - a rose

There are many fans of the rose, but few people decide to plant it in their garden, assuming that it needs special care. But the rose is not so whimsical as it is commonly believed. It is only necessary to follow the rules of its breeding.

Today, rose seedlings are sold in abundance. However, it is not a fact that the plant will take root and will be of the promised color and size, as we would like. Therefore, I would like to know how not to make a mistake and choose the right rose seedlings, based on the fact that not all roses winter well in the Moscow region and northern regions.

Roses successfully grow in one place up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation It is very important to choose the right landing site. Best suited sunny places, protected from the winds, with fertile, but not waterlogged soil with acidity close to neutral. You can plant in spring or autumn. Planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings, care must be taken that the grafting site is 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die when high level ground water. Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the plants are watered and spud.

After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper agricultural practices (excessive fertilizer, dryness or waterlogging, sudden temperature fluctuations). Agricultural practices and timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions. And the number of irrigations depends on the duration of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, soil structure (as far as it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered starting in spring, about once a week. Stop watering in autumn. Sprinkler irrigation is not recommended as it increases disease susceptibility.

Throughout the growing season, roses should be carefully cared for, spring pruning, forming bushes, loosening the soil around the bushes, watering, top dressing, weed control, mulching, pest control, preparation for winter and shelter ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for cuttings.

Pruning roses and shaping bushes

Every year, with the onset of spring, roses are pruned. Reasons why roses are pruned:

1. Correction of the shape of the bushes after the previous growing season. Last summer the branches of roses grew in an undesirable direction. To do this, pruning of those branches that have violated the shape of the bushes.

2. Pruning of bushes is carried out in such a way that, according to the plan of the gardener:
- bushes will produce large, single flowers on long stalks;
- bushes will produce many flowers on many shoots. In this case, the flowers will be smaller, but in large numbers.

3. Rejuvenate the bushes by cutting off old branches and forcing the bushes to produce new young shoots.

After the probability of frost disappears, and the buds have not yet blossomed, the most right time prune roses.

Look closely at the roses first. All branches that have grown inside the bushes must be removed. This will thin out the rose bushes and allow for better ventilation. Then it is necessary to remove branches to living wood that have been damaged or died off during the winter. On strongly tall bushes, all frail shoots are pruned. If the bush is weak, then such shoots are also left, but the branch is shortened by at least one bud. This stimulates growth and strengthens the plant itself. Pruning roses should be such that the existing roots can feed all the branches of the above-ground part of the bushes. This is an important pruning condition. In this case, the roses will normally grow shoots and bloom well.

How to Properly Prune Roses FOR GROWING LARGE FLOWERS

In addition to sanitary pruning roses with large flowers, they are pruned to grow large cut flowers. In this case, on each branch that you left, you need to cut off the shoot so as to leave 3-4 buds on it. This contributes to the development of powerful shoots from a small number of buds left. On such long shoots large flowers are formed.

Pruning roses for GROWING FLOWERS IN A FLOWER BED

If you want roses to bloom profusely in a flower bed, then pruning must be done so that 3-6 buds are left on the shoots left after preliminary pruning for growth. As a result of such pruning, many flowers will appear, smaller and on smaller pedicels.

Pruning roses type FLORIBUNDA OR HYBRIDS OF TEA ROSES for growing in a flower bed

If you want to create lush bush these species, then it is necessary to carry out forming pruning. Depending on how you imagine this bush in the future, prune in this dependence. First, make a sanitary pruning, and then proceed to the formation of a bush. It is difficult to say how many kidneys should be left at the same time. It can be 3 or 6. It all depends on the bush itself that you decide to form. If the flowering and growth of such bushes suddenly decrease, then later you will have to make a stronger pruning of roses.

Pruning MINIATURE ROSES

In general, miniature rose bushes are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea rose bushes. It is sanitary and shaping pruning. Leave 2-3 buds on the branches. The length of the branch is not more than 4″ (10cm). If you do not cut the plant, then it comes into flowering much later. In summer, faded flowers, dry twigs, wilted leaves are removed. This is done so that pests or diseases do not appear on them, as well as in order to improve the decorative effect of the bush.

CLIMBING ROSES Pruning

spring pruning climbing roses produced only at the ends of branches. If the plant is older than 4 years, then the old shoots are cut out completely to the base of the soil after flowering, the young shoots are not touched and are not pruned during the year, since it is at their ends that roses will bloom next year.

ROSE CUTTING TIPS

1. Early timely pruning stimulates the flowering of rose bushes. Pruning too early before the end of frost will slow down the flowering of roses.

2. Late pruning of roses slows down the beginning of the growing season.

3. Feed rose bushes after pruning.

4. In order for the dormant buds to start growing on climbing roses, it is necessary to tie up the young branch in a horizontal or inclined position.

5. All sections larger than 1 cm must be covered with garden pitch or Novikov's liquid.

6. After pruning, the plants should be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Groups of roses such as Spinosissima, Rugosa, Gallica and their hybrids, Moschata almost do not need pruning. Flowers are produced on lateral shoots of biennial and older branches. Pruning of roses is carried out in case of damage to the branches or natural death.

It is best to prune with a knife so as not to crush the branch. The knife for pruning roses must be sharp. Disinfect it before cutting.

Pruning is done at a height of 5-8 mm above the kidney so that the future shoot does not dry out. The cut should be made obliquely from the kidney.

Soil loosening and mulching

Roses need constant care, as well as loosening the soil around the plants (to a depth of 5-10 cm), especially during the hot period, after long rains, when a solid crust forms. As a result, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates the loosened soil, the earth warms up well, and loosening saves water. Deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since even slight damage to the roots harms the plant. Usually loosening begins in May, and ends in July-August in order to avoid encouraging the plant to further growth.

When caring for roses, mulching is used by sprinkling the surface of the earth with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such backfilling with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening, improves physical and Chemical properties soil, conditions of vital activity of soil microorganisms. Therefore, in the spring, immediately after spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils decorative look, later it will be possible to seal it into the soil by loosening.

Preparing roses for winter and shelter

An important quality roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, you need to take into account the characteristics of roses. Large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties should be especially protected, which should be spudded and covered with plastic wrap for the winter.

For the winter, rose bushes are carefully bent to the ground, covered with dry material (peat, spruce branches, leaves, sawdust), and an old oilcloth (cellophane film) is placed on top. Then the bushes will reliably cover the snow. In early spring, when it gets a little warmer, the winter cover is gradually removed. Roses are fully opened only after the soil has thawed. Cut off dead branches and, if necessary, shorten the shoots. The variety is chosen taking into account the place of planting - a bed in the garden, a flower bed, a balcony or a pot.

Roses belong to perennial crops which are grown in open field. With such cultivation, much attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants from diseases and pests. Great importance when cultivating roses, it has a selection of varieties that are characterized by increased resistance to diseases.

Fertilizers and dressings for roses

An important part of rose care is proper nutrition. It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients. To neutralize acidic soils, calcium is needed: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer are used.

Nitrogen promotes plant growth, roses need it after pruning (in early May), during the formation of new shoots, in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for nitrogen application is the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing, "Effekton - C", "Effekton - DC".

Phosphorus is necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate)

Potassium is needed during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.

Trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granular mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola - Rose", any complete fertilizer (always contains trace elements) and wood ash.

In the first year after planting, when filling the soil with fertilizers, there is no need for top dressing. In subsequent years, roses need regular nutrition. Mineral fertilizers, primarily nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, are applied in early spring after the removal of cover and pruning. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up to a depth of 10 cm. In the future, top dressing is timed to coincide with the phases of plant growth and development - the beginning of flowering, new growth of shoots.

A common mistake is to add fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil in spring to plant roses. For young seedlings, this is simply fatal. organic fertilizers It is better to give plants in liquid form.

1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted with 10 liters of water. Bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such unpleasantly smelling nutrients, you need to “powder” the soil from above. wood ash or chalk, then loosen to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses get good nutrition from mulching carried out late autumn, in the beginning of November. Usually put decomposed to the bushes cow dung or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus ... These organic substances are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms more intensively in spring root system, and if it is fed with nitrogen at this time (about 1 tablespoon of urea / urea), then the results will be excellent.

An approximate dose of fertilizers per 1 sq.m: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potassium salt 10 grams. In summer, liquid feeding with mullein is effective. Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is completed at the end of July. In August, for better ripening of shoots, potash and phosphate fertilizers. For the same purpose, watering is limited.

It is not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers, because it pleasantly pleases the eye with lush bright inflorescences. At the same time, it is quite demanding on growing conditions. Rose care includes not only growing flowers in the garden, but also at home. Indoor roses, like garden varieties, require attention: regular watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

In this article, you will learn how to properly care for different types roses in the garden and in a city apartment, and photos and videos will help you quickly master the necessary skills.

Indoor rose: home care

Indoor roses are considered quite whimsical crops, and all measures to care for them should be taken responsibly. First, they need regular feeding and watering. Secondly, they need good lighting, but without exposure to direct sunlight.

In addition, home culture care includes regular transplanting. Since this plant is developing quite actively, the flower needs to be transplanted into pots. bigger size as you grow.

Peculiarities

If you know how to properly care for room culture, and what features should be considered when growing, you can decorate your home with a lush and beautiful plant.

The main feature of indoor varieties is that they react negatively to sudden temperature fluctuations (Figure 1). In summer, the room should not be too hot, and in winter it is advisable to protect the plant from drafts. In addition, the plant will react negatively to cold water when watering.

Figure 1. Basic rules for the care of indoor varieties

After flowering, remove all dry flowers and buds. They have no decorative value, but they take away the juices necessary for growth from the plant. Great care must be taken when transplanting, as the roots of the plant are very sensitive and easily injured.

Basic Rules

If you bought an indoor rose, try to provide her good care at home. You do not need to immediately transplant it into new pot. The plant needs to adapt to a new home, so at first it is better for a flower to grow in an old pot.

Note: In order for the culture to quickly get used to a new place, it is better to put it on the south or southeast window sill.

Plants are responsive to spraying, so in the evening you can moisten the leaves of the plant boiled water room temperature. But in hot summer, such a procedure should be carried out with caution so as not to cause leaf burns.

Another obligatory step in care is top dressing. You can use a liquid solution of mullein for this purpose. During the flowering period, fertilizer is applied weekly, and at other times - once every two weeks.

Problems

The main problems in growing are related to the fact that this culture is quite demanding on the conditions of detention. For example, if a flower does not receive enough sunlight, it will stop growing and flowering. Therefore, you should try to put the pot in well-lit places, but exposure to direct sunlight should be moderate.

In addition, indoor roses are often exposed to diseases and pests. These flowers are often infected with powdery mildew. To combat the disease, spraying with a soda solution (two teaspoons of soda per liter of water) is carried out. Spraying should be carried out very carefully so that the solution does not get on the soil. During processing, it is better to cover the soil. Also, a spider mite often settles on them, to combat which they use special preparations - acaricides.

pruning

The flowering of indoor varieties largely depends on how regularly pruning will be done (Figure 2).

All diseased, dry or damaged branches and shoots are removed immediately. If they dry up due to disease, you can prevent the spread of the disease, and if the cause is improper care, the plant will receive more nutrients for normal development.

Figure 2. Features of pruning indoor roses

After flowering is completed, all wilted buds and inflorescences are also removed. They take the nutrients from the plant that are needed to recover from the active growing season.

Caring for roses in the spring in the country

For long flowering plants need proper care: regular pruning and top dressing, removal of wild growth from grafted plants, mulching and prevention against pests and diseases. One-year-old plants are especially carefully looked after, as this will later affect the quality of the flower.

Young seedlings must be formed so that in the future the bush is symmetrical. To do this, pinching is carried out after the appearance of the fourth sheet. In addition, in the first year after planting the bush, cut off all the buds as soon as they reach the size of a pea. This stimulates the formation of new stems and makes the bush symmetrical. In August, the formation is stopped and the bush is given the opportunity to bloom. Figure 3 shows the basic guidelines for pruning bushes.

Note: Without pinching the shoots and buds, the plant will bloom. This will weaken it and the bush will not grow well.

Pinching is not carried out on climbing, semi-climbing, ground cover and park varieties. However, this procedure is also necessary for adult cultures to limit growth. In order for the bush to bloom beautifully, young shoots must be cut off, drowning out the central part of the bush.

Figure 3. Recommendations for pruning rose bushes

Pruning is also an important step. Unlike wild, garden varieties, this procedure is carried out annually to stimulate growth and more. abundant flowering.

There are several types of pruning:

Spring (main) helps to properly form a bush, stimulates abundant flowering and the formation of young shoots.
Summer performs the function of regulating flowering. In varieties that produce buds several times, after the first flowering period, all inflorescences are removed along with top stem. The cut is made over the second or third leaf with a well-developed bud. This saves juices and stimulates the formation of new shoots and leaves. Summer pruning is not carried out only for those varieties that bloom once and form beautiful fruits, or for those from which it is planned to collect seeds. In summer, extra stems are also cut off, drowning out the central part of the bush. During the last flowering, wilted buds are not removed, as this may cause unwanted autumn growth.
autumn do just before shelter for the winter. Remove all leaves, fruits and buds, and cut out all weak and diseased shoots.

In addition, there is a weak, medium and strong pruning. Relevant examples are shown in Figure 4. After winter, the flowers are re-examined and all dead parts are removed. After that, the main pruning begins. For this:

Choose 4-5 strong and healthy shoots arranged symmetrically. All weak, subtle and muting are removed. The remaining branches are slightly shortened.
Plants with flower buds located at the top of the stems are not pruned.
For park species, only old and diseased stems are removed, and for climbing species, all shoots are removed, except for 5-6 annuals. But if there are too few of them, you can leave some of the old ones, shortening them by about half.
Tea-hybrid and polyanthus are pruned heavily, leaving only 3-4 buds at the bottom.

Those plants that have not tolerated wintering well also need strong pruning. In general, the intensity depends on the variety and the strength of the growth of the bush.

For pruning, use only sharp secateurs. If the tool is blunt, it will crush and tear the stems. An infection can get into an uneven cut and the flower will die. The cut should be at an angle so that water flows from it, since stagnant liquid can become a focus for the development of infection. Before pruning, the tools are disinfected in a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and the cut is treated with garden pitch.

Figure 4. The main types of pruning: a - weak, b - medium, c - strong, d - removal of wild shoots at the root level

In grafted plants, wild shoots sometimes appear below the grafting site. You can identify it by the thorns and smaller leaves. Such shoots must be removed, as they can lead to the death of the plant. To do this, dig a little earth around the bush and remove the shoots at the level of the buds in the ground. If this is not done and pruned at ground level, wild buds will throw out several young shoots at once. General recommendations cropping are shown in the video.

In the spring, regular watering of the bushes begins. Young only planted seedlings are watered every two days, and already established ones - as the soil dries out (about once a week).

Note: The intensity of watering adult plants depends on the variety, weather and the ability of the soil to retain moisture.

It is especially important to regularly water during flowering and bud formation. If there is not enough liquid, the flowers will be small or begin to crumble. Do not use cold water in hot weather. From this, the roots lose their ability to absorb moisture and the plant experiences prolonged water starvation.

Note: It is advisable to water with melt or rain water, as it contains less mineral salts. In addition, these flowers tolerate rare but plentiful watering better. Frequent application of liquid in small quantities provokes the formation of superficial roots, which are easily damaged when loosening and weaken the plant.

To properly water the culture, make a small hole around the bush and surround it with an earthen roller. Outwardly, the hole resembles a bowl and prevents water from flowing out during irrigation. For watering one bush, 10 liters of water will be enough. However, in the fall, the amount of water is gradually reduced, and then completely stopped. It is important to ensure that the liquid does not get on the flowers and leaves. In addition, it is better to water roses in the morning (Figure 5). You will learn more recommendations for watering from the video.

After each watering, the soil around the bush is loosened to a depth of 5 cm. This allows not only to remove weeds, but also to provide better access of air and water to the roots. The earth is loosened carefully so as not to accidentally damage the roots.

Upon completion of loosening and watering the soil, it is necessary to carry out mulching.

Figure 5 Proper watering rose bushes

During it, the soil around the cultivated bushes is covered with loose organic soil layer no more than 8 cm. This manipulation has such positive features(picture 6):

Allows you to save and prevent the loss of moisture in the soil during summer droughts;
The number of weeding and loosening is significantly reduced;
Protects plants from drying out and overheating during hot and windy weather;
Does not allow silting of the soil during heavy rains.

Shredded can be used as mulch. tree bark, straw, compost, peat or rotted manure. All these substances not only protect the soil, but also saturate it with useful elements.

Note: The use of grass or sawdust is not recommended, as they may contain weed seeds and pathogens.

As a rule, mulching is carried out in April or May, but sometimes the soil can be covered with mulch in the fall, but before the ground has cooled. Before mulching, be sure to remove all weeds. After the mulch has dried, it is mixed with top layer soil and mulch again.

Figure 6. Loosening and mulching horticultural crops

Roses respond very well to fertilizing. For example, you can use foliar fertilizers which are applied to the leaves by spraying. The positive effect is noticeable after a few hours. Thanks to the use of this fertilizer, the general appearance improves, and the flowers become larger.

In the first year after planting, there is no need for additional top dressing, provided that fertilizers were applied to the soil at planting. After pinching, it is desirable to add liquid organic fertilizers to the soil. In the future, they need to be fed annually. As a rule, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied alternately, 6-7 times a year.

Each element that is part of fertilizers has a positive effect:

Nitrogen accelerates the growth of leaves and stems;
Phosphorus accelerates flowering and strengthens the roots;
Potassium improves the quality of buds and flowers;
Magnesium, calcium and other trace elements improve general level health.

Full mineral fertilizer is applied already in the spring, when shelter is removed from the roses for the winter. In summer, both mineral and organic fertilizers are applied. This will have a positive effect on flowering. In late summer and early autumn, reduce the amount of nitrogen to slow down growth before winter period vegetative dormancy. Common types of fertilizers are shown in Figure 7.

Roses - gentle garden plants, which do not tolerate frost well and need shelter for the winter.

Note: Park species are considered the most winter-hardy. They can not be covered, but only spud with a layer of earth 20 cm high.

To increase winter hardiness, reduce the number of irrigations in the fall, and replace nitrogen fertilizers with phosphorus and potash fertilizers. In rainy weather around the bushes are pulled out drainage grooves for withdrawal excess fluid which can damage the roots.

Figure 7. Popular types of fertilizers (from left to right): liquid, organic and mineral

In order for roses to endure the winter well, with the onset of the first frosts, all young fragile shoots, buds and leaves are removed. If left alone, they will rot during the winter and become a source of disease. For additional prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture. Climbing and semi-climbing varieties are pinned to the ground, laying them on pine branches (Figure 8). Additionally, each bush is spudded to protect the roots from frost. Examples of shelters for roses are shown in Figure 9.

Note: Roses cover only after the onset of stable night frosts. Rare drops in temperature do not harm the bushes, but only increase their winter hardiness.

For high-quality shelter for the winter, an air-dry method is used:

Above each plant, a wire or wooden frame about half a meter high;
A layer of insulation (for example, roofing felt) is laid on top and on the side;
The top is covered with a layer of polyethylene film.

Figure 8. Shelters for climbing and semi-climbing varieties

In such a shelter, the plants will be reliably protected from the cold. The ends are left open and covered only after the temperature drops to minus 15 degrees.

It is possible to completely remove winter shelters only after the earth has completely warmed up and in the absence of night frosts. But it is impossible to open them too late, as the elevated temperature under the film can lead to the death of plants.

For better adaptation, the opening is carried out gradually:

First, snow is removed from the film and drainage grooves are broken around the bushes to drain melt water;
After that, they begin to make short-term ventilation, slightly opening the end parts in warm weather;
Next, you should make a hole in the upper part of the shelter;
When the earth is completely thawed, it is loosened.

Figure 9. Options for winter shelters for rose bushes

After warming up the soil by 15-20 cm, they begin to gradually remove the shelter, opening first the ends, then the top and sides. So that roses do not receive sunburn, removal of shelter is best done on cloudy days or in the late afternoon.

Open bushes must be shaded, and rooting is carried out only after the final warming up of the earth. After that, weak and diseased stems are removed, and they are also sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux liquid for prevention.

How to care for a room rose in a pot

Hybrid tea, remontant and polyanthus varieties are commonly used as indoor roses. In fact, these are the same garden varieties, but smaller.

As with growing in the garden, roses that are kept at home need proper care: good lighting, regular watering and top dressing. In addition, it is necessary to maintain an optimal temperature and humidity regime (Figure 10).

The soil

The soil in which an indoor rose is grown should be nutritious, but not heavy. It is important that air is constantly supplied to the roots of the plant, so the soil in the pot must be regularly loosened.

If you plan to transplant a flower into a new container, it is better to buy a special soil for indoor roses. Such a substrate is balanced in terms of the main components, and does not contain pest larvae or pathogens.

Lighting

Indoor roses are very fond of sunlight. Therefore, they can be safely put on a well-lit southern windowsill. However, it should be borne in mind that in hot weather during the day you can not spray the leaves of the plant, as this can cause burns to delicate tissues.

Figure 10. Caring for roses in a pot

In winter, the duration of daylight hours is artificially extended. To do this, fluorescent lamps are installed near the flower and left on so that the daylight hours are at least 12 hours.

Temperature

Despite the love of good lighting, indoor varieties very sensitive to temperature. They do not like extreme heat and cold, therefore, in the room where the rose pot is located, it is necessary to maintain a moderate temperature (no more than +20 degrees).

During the dormant period, which lasts from October to February, the indicators are reduced to + 5 + 8 degrees. This is necessary so that the rose gets stronger and does not wake up ahead of time.

Air humidity

Along with temperature regime and exactingness to the soil, indoor roses are very responsive to air humidity. To do this, the leaves are sprayed with boiled water at room temperature (up to two times a day).

Spraying is carried out in the morning and in the evening so that the water that gets on the leaves does not cause burns. With special care, spraying is carried out in hot weather.

Chinese rose: home care

Chinese rose, or hibiscus, is ornamental shrub With beautiful flowers different shades. Despite the fact that the inflorescences wither in just a few days, the bush constantly forms many new buds, so the shrub blooms almost continuously. However, this feature will only be relevant if the hibiscus has been provided with optimal care.

The value of hibiscus is that it is considered one of the most unpretentious crops for the home. The main stages of care include:

Regular watering: it is necessary to ensure that the earth ball is always moderately moist. In summer, watering should be more intense, and in winter its frequency is reduced.
Liquid should not stagnate near the roots, so a layer of drainage must be laid on the bottom of the pot.
Maintaining the optimal level of air humidity is ensured by regular spraying. But you need to make sure that water does not get on the flower petals, otherwise they will begin to fall off.
Top dressing is applied every ten days during the flowering period, and reduced at the end of summer.

An adult plant needs to regularly cut old branches so that new shoots form on the bush. Every autumn, the shoots are shortened by a third of the length so that the plant can better endure the winter.

Climbing roses: care and cultivation

Cultivation and proper care of climbing roses will help to get a strong and healthy plant, which will become a real decoration of the site.

Note: Thanks to flexible climbing stems and lush inflorescences, these varieties are often used to decorate fences, walls of buildings and arbors.

Care for climbing varieties includes a standard set of activities. Bushes need to be regularly watered and fed, as well as prevent diseases and pests. In addition, in the spring, all damaged and dry shoots are removed, and the bush is also slightly thinned out to provoke the growth of young shoots and the formation of flower buds.

Figure 11. Options for using climbing varieties for garden decoration

The main feature of growing and caring for climbing varieties is the installation of supports (Figure 11). You can use both special metal structures and any materials at hand. Climbing roses planted near old trees will look spectacular, which will gradually become covered with stems and buds.

Stem rose: planting, care and photo

The stock rose is the scientific name for the common mallow, which is often planted along fences or against house walls. This plant does not grow well in any soil, but some care, like other flower crops, still requires a stem rose (Figure 12).

Figure 12. Planting a stem rose on the site

During the flowering period, all wilted buds are removed from the stems, and the stems are shortened to a length of 30 cm. In addition, the stems must be tied to pegs, since when strong wind they may break. Watering mallow prefers moderate, but does not like acidic soils. If the soil on the site is fertile, fertilizing can be omitted. On poor soils, fertilizers are applied about a week before flowering. For the winter, the plant must be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches.

Floribunda rose: planting and care with a photo

Varieties of floribunda roses were bred by breeders. The plants are bushy, and the flowers are collected in large and medium-sized inflorescences.

Well-lit areas are most suitable for planting, but with light shade in the middle of the day. If the plant is intensively illuminated by the sun throughout the day, it will quickly fade. It is also not recommended to plant flowers in areas with strong drafts.

Flowers of this type are very sensitive to watering. The most intensive watering is carried out during the awakening of the kidneys and after the end of the first wave of flowering, when new shoots begin to form on the bushes. In spring, combined fertilizers are applied to the soil, which help the plant to wake up faster. In addition, the soil must be regularly loosened and freed from weeds. The earth circle around the bush can be covered with mulch, which will prevent the soil from drying out and stop the growth of weeds. Rejuvenating pruning is carried out annually to stimulate the growth of new shoots. Despite the resistance to cold weather, floribunda roses are recommended to cover for the winter.

Rose mini mix: home care

Mini mix roses are attractive because small sizes they are distinguished by long and abundant flowering, and the buds can be of a wide variety of shades (Figure 13).

Figure 12. Growing roses mini mix

Mini mix roses require fairly abundant watering, and the water should be separated and at room temperature. You can also spray the leaves with water at room temperature, and in winter you can completely replace watering with spraying.

In order for plants to bloom often and profusely, they need to provide good lighting. To do this, the flower is placed on the south or southeast window, and in winter the daylight hours are extended with fluorescent lamps.

Park roses: care and cultivation

Park times are most often grown on summer cottages. These are beautiful and relatively unpretentious flowers, which, however, require some care (Figure 14).

Note: It is necessary to plant park varieties at some distance from each other, so that the bushes can be conveniently maintained and sheltered for the winter.

Park varieties are watered quite intensively, especially in hot summers. However, care must be taken to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but is not too wet. In addition, during the awakening of the kidneys, the plants are fed, and for the winter the branches are shortened and the bushes are covered with dry leaves or coniferous branches.

Tea rose: home care

Tea roses are resistant to adverse factors environment. However, this condition only applies to varieties that are cultivated in the garden. Cultures that are grown at home are very finicky and require careful care.

Figure 14. Growing park roses

First, there must be enough light in the room and fresh air. For this, a room with windows facing southeast or southwest is best suited. If you put a flower on the south window, too intense lighting will lead to rapid drying and falling of the buds. Comfortable temperature is +20+25 degrees. It is also necessary to ensure regular watering: the ground should be moist, but not wet. Therefore, when planting such a crop in a pot, be sure to lay a layer of drainage on the bottom. In addition, indoor tea varieties are regularly sprayed with boiled water at room temperature, avoiding moisture on the flowers.

The rose is the acknowledged and undisputed "queen of the garden". Despite such a high title of this beautiful flower, care for him is not at all difficult. If you are just planning to organize a rose garden in your garden, but do not know exactly how to grow roses, then in this article you will find answers to many of your questions.

There are a lot of types and varieties of roses and many of them have their own characteristics agricultural techniques that must be taken into account when growing. The basic rules of care are about the same - moderate watering, pruning, fertilizing, disease control, pests and shelter for the winter.

Growing climbing roses

How to grow floribunda roses

Planting and caring for ground cover roses

Planting and growing park roses

Rules for growing home roses

Learning to grow roses from cuttings

How to properly cover roses for the winter

The best varieties of climbing roses

The best varieties of floribunda roses

The floribunda rose was developed by crossing musk, polyanthus and hybrid tea roses. Like polyanthus, it is quite resistant to diseases and winter-hardy. Compared to hybrid tea, it has a longer flowering period, although it may be inferior to them in elegance.

However, this is the best decoration of the garden: the peculiarity of this variety lies in the arrangement of flowers. They grow on the shoot not singly, but as a whole inflorescence (several dozen flowers each). It is easy to care for floribunda. Therefore, the floribunda rose is often grown to decorate parks and gardens, especially in group compositions.

The floribunda variety includes roses that have large inflorescences and an almost continuous flowering period. They are most similar to hybrid tea both in the shape of the flower and in the range of colors.

Roses successfully grow in one place up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation, it is very important to choose the right place for planting. Best suited sunny places, protected from the winds, with fertile, but not waterlogged soil with acidity close to neutral. You can plant in spring or autumn. Planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings, care must be taken that the grafting site is 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die at high groundwater levels. Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the plants are watered and spud.

After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper agricultural practices (excessive fertilizer, dryness or waterlogging, sudden temperature fluctuations). Agricultural practices and timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions. And the number of irrigations depends on the duration of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, soil structure (how much it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered starting in spring, about once a week. Stop watering in autumn. Sprinkler irrigation is not recommended as it increases disease susceptibility.

Throughout the growing season, roses are followed by careful care, spring pruning, shaping the bushes, loosening the soil around the bushes, watering, top dressing, weed control, mulching, pest control, winterization and shelter ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for cuttings ... - see "".

Pruning roses and shaping bushes

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but it requires knowledge of some rules. The main pruning is carried out in spring at a height of 20-25 cm, with the exception of curly and park species, in which only old shoots are removed.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45 degrees, to healthy wood, 5-6 cm above the developed bud. The cut surface should be smooth, without cracks and burrs, be sure to cover with garden pitch. Cut off on the kidney located on outside escape, so as not to obscure the center of the bush. Sometimes in strong rose plants, after pruning, 2-3 shoots grow from one bud. Leave one, the rest must be deleted. All weak, thin, crossing, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of the soil or healthy wood.

A number of shoots are left on the bush, at which air exchange and good illumination of the bush can be ensured. In this case, the development of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, black spot, rust and others that occur in stagnant air.

The formation of bushes requires special attention in the first summer after planting. All small growing inwards, shoots thickening the plant, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root neck (in own-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched. In June, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have matured, freeze slightly, often causing roses to be infested with diseases.

During the summer, for greater decorativeness and longer abundant flowering, it is necessary to remove faded flowers. In grafted roses, wild rosehip root shoots are promptly removed to the base, which is especially abundant in the first summer, and should be less in subsequent years.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual, too violently growing shoots, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the most important task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that this or that variety is capable of giving, it is necessary to correctly carry out summer pruning. You can’t just remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, that is, you tore off one flower and that’s it - this is a big mistake, because a new shoot with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and easily bendable. It is necessary to remove the flower even before the petals fall completely, as soon as the flower loses its attractiveness. You need to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will grow strong and will hold tight (when pruning, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye).

Soil loosening and mulching

When caring for roses, mulching is used by sprinkling the surface of the earth with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such backfilling with a layer of up to 10 cm reduces the amount of irrigation and loosening, improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, and the conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Therefore, in the spring, immediately after spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, it will later be possible to embed it into the soil by loosening.

Preparing roses for winter and shelter

An important quality of roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, you need to take into account the characteristics of roses. Large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties should be especially protected, which should be spudded and covered with plastic wrap for the winter.

Roses are perennial crops grown outdoors. With such cultivation, much attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants from diseases and pests. Of great importance in the cultivation of roses is the selection of varieties that are characterized by increased resistance to disease.

Fertilizers and dressings for roses

Proper nutrition is an important part of rose care. It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients. To neutralize acidic soils, calcium is needed: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer are used.

Phosphorus is necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate)

A common mistake is to add fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil in spring to plant roses. For young seedlings, this is simply fatal. Organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.

1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted with 10 liters of water. Bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such unpleasantly smelling nutrients, you need to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk from above, then loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses get good nutrition from mulching carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus are poured into the bushes ... These organic substances are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if it is fed with nitrogen at this time (about 1 tablespoon of urea / carbamide), then the results will be excellent.

An approximate dose of fertilizers per 1 sq.m: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potassium salt 10 grams. In summer, liquid feeding with mullein is effective. Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is completed at the end of July. In August, for better ripening of shoots, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. For the same purpose, watering is limited ...