– bulk, raised above the ground earthen structures intended for planting and growing herbaceous plants. Apply to garden plots under garden crops and for planting flowers.
Advantages and disadvantages
A raised plot of land has a number of advantages and disadvantages:
| pros | Minuses |
| No shedding of the side walls of the soil, with structures protected by partitions. | Through the side walls, made of “breathable” material, soil moisture leaves faster, as a result of which the frequency and volume of watering has to be increased. |
| Independent of the soil located on the site - you can use purchased chernozem. | Periodic costs are required to purchase black soil. |
| Creation favorable climate for plant growth, – elevation above general level soil significantly reduces the risk of cold damage during frost periods. In addition, the bed can be easily protected from external influences by covering it with a tarpaulin or covering material. | The limited interaction with the general mass of the earth forces an increase in the use mineral fertilizers. |
| More early period growing crops - in spring period The snow melts earlier and the soil warms up faster. | There is a risk of insects breeding that will harm the planted plants. |
| Possibility of creating a greenhouse or mini-greenhouse that can be dismantled with the onset of warm period of the year. | On initial stage creating high beds, you have to incur material costs and make additional physical efforts to create a land structure. |
| Good drainage to optimize watering and soil moisture. Thanks to this, there is no risk of soil swamping, moss growth, and plant rotting. | Limitation on plant assortment - not all plants tolerate an open, ventilated area. |
| Deep digging of the soil is carried out once every 3-4 calendar years. The rest of the time it is enough to carry out shallow loosening. | |
| Convenience when working with low-growing plants, this is especially important for older people or those with limited mobility. | |
| Obtaining a larger yield compared to traditional methods of growing plants. | |
| The high level of the ground allows you to reduce the physical effort required when cultivating the soil, caring for green spaces, harvesting - for example, you can use a folding chair. | |
| Optimal garden layout. | |
| Creating beds with unusual shape and design. |
From the above comparative data, it is clear that the idea of high beds has the right to life. Measures aimed at reducing negative factors will contribute to this.
How to eliminate the disadvantages?
Ways to reduce negative factors:
- Reducing the amount of mineral fertilizers applied to a raised plot of land is facilitated by the expanded use of organic fertilizers:
- bird droppings, manure from cattle, creating tinctures for liquid nutrition based on them;
- the use of ash from burning wood in stoves or fireplaces;
- creation of your own on the site compost pit for processing residues from plants and human food, which will reduce the amount of purchased black soil;
- using sludge from a septic tank.
- A “drip” mode device will help reduce dependence on irrigation: Such designs can be found in abundance on the Internet.
- Reducing the material costs required when creating high beds is facilitated by:
- use of materials left over from construction country house or arranging a fence, for example, or corrugated sheeting;
- the use of industrial substandard material, which is sold at significant discounts;
- remnants of construction products that appear during the demolition of dilapidated housing, or in other similar cases.
- Appearances harmful insects and weeds can be avoided by preliminary preparation soil:
- treatment with chemicals,
- removing roots.
Kinds
Raised beds differ from each other in several ways:
- geometric dimensions - length, width and height above the general level of the site;
- finishing of the side walls.
Wooden
Wooden raised beds
As side supporting walls wood material used:
- boards;
- plywood of moisture-resistant varieties, for example, OSB-3;
- log structure;
- materials with the presence of wood, for example, wood concrete sheets (wood concrete) - a mixture of cement and shavings;
- wicker rods.
Main advantage this material is its availability and ease of processing. But common deciduous (birch, aspen) and coniferous (pine) types of wood are susceptible to rotting and are worn down by bugs. Application resistant species, for example, larch, is associated with its more high cost and difficulty of processing. But this type of wood improves its properties over time (part of old Venice still rests on Siberian larch).
Plastic
For fencing, products made of dense plastics are used:
- plexiglass;
- , including cell phone;
- corrugated polymer sheeting;
- plastic pipes, for example, used for sewerage installations with a diameter of 100–200 mm;
- containers - plastic boxes with perforated walls.
Dignity– plastic is one of the “eternal” materials, it does not rot, does not decompose, and is resistant to water and exposure to bacteria and insects.
But in winter it becomes brittle, so during this period of the year it requires careful handling.
Easy to give in machining, easy to install. Plastic products have a varied color scheme, which helps to decorate the garden area.
Metal
To construct an earthen embankment, they are used finished goods and semi-finished products:
- galvanized a metal sheet, for example, going to the roof;
- corrugated sheets and other metal products.
Basic requirement for metal– absence of corrosion, therefore, in the absence of protection, it is necessary to take measures to cover the surface of the products with anti-corrosion compounds. Externally, the beds can be made in a classic rectangular shape or given designer look, – model an oval structure reminiscent of a large bathtub.
In addition to the above materials, slate sheets, bricks, concrete products, gabions and many other products that fall under the requirements for earthen embankment fencing are widely used.
Technology
Before considering the technology of constructing a high bed, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of rules.
Creation Rules
Requirements for beds are necessary for proper placement on the site; they must take into account local climatic conditions and the range of plants grown.
- Bed sizes. The length of the earthen embankment is limited by the size of the site and ease of passage. Hence: the optimal range is 2–5 m. Width is up to 1–1.2 m; a larger value will create inconvenience when processing the middle part. The height of the structure should not exceed 1 m, otherwise it will also create problems with plant maintenance and require significant costs when used purchased soil. The minimum level is 25–30 cm, determined by the climate and the size of the fence available “at hand”.
- The soil. The purpose of creating high beds is to increase fruiting and speed of harvest. Chernozem is one of the components. Therefore, saving on the quality of the land means wasting your efforts, time and finances in vain.
- Location. Abundance of sunlight is one of the keys normal height plants and their fruiting. It is advisable to place the beds in open, unshaded areas. But the overall layout of the site should be taken into account - not to the detriment of other plants and outbuildings.
- Fencing material. You should not chase ultra-modern products - boards left over from formwork, or old brick will fully perform the functions of enclosing walls. And money will be saved.
- Protection of green spaces. Most of the country is located in difficult climatic conditions, in which frosts are not uncommon at the beginning and end of summer. A pre-installed protection system, for example, a structure for a greenhouse, will help reduce the risk of plants being damaged by cold air.
Construction of an earth embankment
Stages of work:
Planting planning
It is advisable to set up high beds in late summer or early autumn - this will contribute to additional overheating of organic matter and the creation of your own local microflora. If it is necessary to create a planting site in spring or summer, if possible, the soil must be filled in at least 1 month before planting the plant material.
On raised soil plots you can grow most vegetables, berries and flower crops. Moreover, they can be successfully placed in one fenced area. For example, cold-resistant: radishes, green onions, lettuce, can be planted around heat-loving plants - in the summer all these plants will be comfortable, and the tomatoes will receive additional protection when the air temperature drops.
Berry and vegetable crops on such raised embankments in favorable conditions temperature conditions and timely watering, they ripen 1-2 weeks earlier, so it is necessary not to miss the harvest time, otherwise it will begin to rot and simply disappear.
You can evaluate the advantage of high beds even from one initial experience - just start with simple crops - onions, radishes, carrots and gradually expand the experience to other plants.
As you know, in spring or autumn, areas for planting should be dug up in order to break up dense clods of soil and enrich it with air. However, digging also has negative sides in the form of weathering the earth, destroying earthworms, destroying its organic structure and stimulating the growth of weeds. Therefore, it is possible to improve productivity and eliminate the need for annual digging by creating high beds in the garden. This is exactly what we will talk about, as well as how to make high beds and grow excellent vegetables on them.
Raised bed technology
Raised beds are a vegetable garden built above the ground. It is created by human hands, for which the soil is placed in specially made fences. Compost and mulch are placed in them in the form of several layers, and also periodically on top, so that the necessary organic substances will constantly flow into the ground. Digging as such is not required; working with a shovel is only needed when planting seeds or seedlings and digging up plants. High beds are also suitable for areas with rocky and infertile soil, for summer residents who find it difficult to dig up their gardens or do not have time for it. The use of bulk beds is also recommended in areas with cold climatic conditions, since the soil warms up faster and retains moisture and heat better - the main conditions for growing agriculture. The advantages of high beds include the minimum amount. In addition, high beds in the country can be installed almost anywhere, in accordance with the layout of the site.
Watch the video GROWING ZUCCHINS WITHOUT LAND! THE BEST WAY TO GROW ZUCCHIN SEEDLINGS! V good quality| Zucchini is a very healthy vegetable crop. Perhaps zucchini is the most popular crop among gardeners. Such variety delicious recipes like zucchini, there is no other vegetable crop. Zucchini is very easy to grow. There are many ways to grow it. There are traditional methods and there are non-traditional ones. I grow zucchini, as well as cucumbers, without soil. It is best to grow seedlings in roll-ups or snails without soil. In a few days, this way you can grow excellent seedlings without soil. The seedlings are sterile, they are not susceptible to blackleg. Such seedlings can be planted in the ground, or also planted in cups and grown to the required age. To get early harvest zucchini, they can be grown in a greenhouse in mobile beds. Today I will show you how to grow zucchini without soil. In rolling papers. This The best way growing zucchini seedlings. **************************************** ****************** - real earnings on YouTube. I recommend my affiliate program!
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At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I grow vegetables.
I work, so I can only go to my summer cottage on weekends. At the same time, you need to rest after a week of work, eat barbecue, take a steam bath, and do a little work on the ground. Currently, there are several problems in gardening: soil fertility is declining. The earth becomes dense, depleted and has grey colour. A drop in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops.
The use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human illness. Traditional agricultural technology used by most gardeners is very labor-intensive. And this reduces interest in gardening among young people.
However, all these problems can be solved quite easily if Natural farming is used instead of traditional farming. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is increased productivity garden crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and preserves human health. A number of gardening operations in natural agricultural technology used less often than with traditional ones. And some are completely absent from it. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating land and caring for plants.
In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil needs to be stuffed with fertilizers, tormented with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming is, first of all, gentle cultivation of the soil, protecting it from temperature changes, returning nutrients that the earth generously gave to plants.
Every year in the spring, when we arrive at our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. This is called the traditional way of planting vegetables in the garden. The plants in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and as a result they develop poorly; the vegetables are small and cannot be stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good food, and offspring can be laid near it. Weeding and cultivating such beds is a pain.
But in such a bed I saw one positive side. The outer plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are convenient to weed, thin out, etc.
I also thought about one more factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the leaves it sheds, and even then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as food for the tree. So how does this tree exist and where does it get its food? Behind last years Scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes its nutrition from the air. This is certainly interesting.
The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature changes, night and day, dry or rainy summer, excessive precipitation towards the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed my chosen long years trial and error techniques for growing vegetables. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another method that is less labor-intensive, but at the same time with the opportunity to obtain higher yields. I combined two technologies.
1. “Narrow ridges - unique technology vegetable growing for small areas."
2. “Agricultural technology of natural farming.”
I have become convinced that organics can unleash all the capabilities of plants, saving energy and time. Just on good compost you can see and evaluate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure that we cannot escape organics. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also set up permanent beds - once for many years.
Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mittleider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989.
But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best ones, will lead nowhere. It should be creativity and to an understanding of the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes occurring during its cultivation. Mitlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this, I instead mineral supplements I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I am a supporter of organic fertilizers). I am for a clean environmental product.
But you shouldn’t perceive mineral fertilizer as poison. The only thing is to follow the dose. It is better not to feed the plant than to overfeed it.
What I am especially grateful to J. Mittleider for is the development of narrow beds. Although Mittleider does not recommend placing the box on narrow beds, I still put together the boxes. Nature itself suggested this to me. In spring many summer cottages It floods, the water doesn’t have time to drain, there is water in the passages. We have the same problem at the end of August and beginning of September - it rains day and night. And in the middle of summer it can rain for 2-3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour.
Therefore, raising the bed 15-25 cm above the path solves this problem. The width of the bed is 60 - 100 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It just seems that the soil in the aisles is walking around uselessly. It’s the passages that work, and how!
The vegetable container is high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. I filled some passages with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.
Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Plant remains (grass, straw, leaves) are placed down, then compost or manure, or we spill herbal infusions and the like; The soil from the passages is placed in the top layer. This way the box is filled.
Each bed consists of 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between vegetables. This geometry hides a huge reserve of productivity, it has long been noticed: the outer plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide row spacing is necessary in order to give them light and space. A small area of organic matter produces more than big square soil. Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from good harvest, but also from the process of growing vegetables itself.
The beauty of the vegetable garden, which is more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.
I plant cabbage, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, etc. in two rows in a checkerboard pattern.
I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc. in four or three rows.
Disadvantages Requires material costs in the first year to build a bed. This tiny drawback makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents.
Such a bed works for several years, one might say forever (replenish it with waste, plant debris, leaves, etc.). After digging, sow green manure. When planting, you do not need to add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed is itself compost.
The humus is not washed away, since the bed is fenced. According to many agronomists, 60 - 80% of the plant gets its nutrition from the air, so large passages play a significant role in the biological process of the plant. The crop receives good lighting and sufficient air flow.
About 30% of the plant receives its nutrition from the ground. Naturally, a narrow bed uses 2 times less organic and mineral fertilizers compared to a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher harvest from a narrow bed. I've been testing this for several years and it shows in my photos.
Contains a large amount of nutrients and moisture reserves.
Convenient watering.
There is no stagnation of water.
Does not require hilling.
Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
Does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm.
Can be produced early boarding, since the beds warm up faster in the spring than usual.
Crop rotation is easy in narrow beds. Where you planted onions last year, you can plant carrots or cabbage this year. The beds are all the same width.
Productivity increases by 100% or more.
Tubers and root vegetables are clean without visible signs of disease.
Beautiful and easy to use.
Takes up minimal space and does not create dirt or clutter.
It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the bed and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the bed, you install the required number of arcs. Covering material or film can be used over the arches until the threat of frost has passed.
This system of narrow beds allows me to obtain consistently high yields, independent of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.
Isn't that great? And this is considering that Igor lives in the Khabarovsk Territory, in Komsomolsk-on-Amur!
And they tell us a zone of risky farming, a zone of risky farming :)) 
Creating a box bed.
At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I make a garden bed. A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of brick, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate. The beds stretch from north to south.
In the photo you will see that the bed is made of logs. The logs were left over after the houses were demolished; they were not taken into construction because the core had rotted, but they would be good for garden beds.
We prepare a flat area.
We lay the logs firmly in the ground, you can even deepen them a little. Width from 80 - 120 cm, it all depends on climatic conditions The hotter it is, the wider the bed.
The length is arbitrary.
We knock the logs together with nails or screws.
I put cardboard on the bottom to prevent perennial weeds from developing...
...as well as pests such as Khrushchev, wireworm, etc.
We place coarse plant residues of corn, sunflowers, etc.
Moreover, it needs to be painted or whitewashed. The paint is now on sale at water based for facades. This is so that the sun does not heat the earth and insects will gnaw less, and most importantly the beauty of the garden bed.
Then I lay down the plant remains of other crops: carrots, cabbage, potato tops, tomato tops, etc. Regardless of whether they are infected with diseases or not. Effective microorganisms will process all sores. You can't put down a perennial weed. I don't use Baikal or anything like that.
Igor Lyadov uses 4 types of feeding tinctures
1. I believe that every farmer can independently prepare microbial preparations for himself, almost as diverse in composition as the sold EO crops, but from his own local microbes adapted to the climate and soils, which will be more environmentally intelligent and practical.
We offer practical, simple and cheap way restoring soil fertility and increasing plant productivity. Considering that the main component of EO is yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are already abundant in the soil and around us, we suggest using ordinary sugar-yeast mash as a starter for organic infusions.
An infusion is being prepared. The following is placed in a 200-liter container (barrel):
- a shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure or droppings;
- a bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;
- a shovel of humus, compost or just garden soil;
- a shovel of sand;
- a liter of whey or yogurt;
- 3 liters of mash!
The mash is prepared as follows: for 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, take 5 tbsp. spoons of sugar and a pinch of yeast. It ferments for 2-3 days, then it is added to the general tank. Before use, you need to store the mash in the refrigerator - it is valuable until it sours.
In a common tank, all the fresh water is infused for a week. Sometimes it should be stirred. When used, the infusion is diluted at least twice. (Yu.I. Slashchinin)
2. At 200 liter barrel I add 2/3 of a barrel of weed grass. (you can add 2 shovels of ash). I fill it with water and cover it with film on top. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 10.
3. I put fresh manure in a 200 liter barrel, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 10.
4. I put chicken manure in a 200 liter barrel, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 20.
Growing potatoes the Dutch way is a technique in which every little detail is taken into account. When planting using this technology, up to 250-300 kg of tubers are collected per hundred square meters.
Dutch technology provides potatoes with:
- sufficient warmth;
- supply of oxygen to the roots;
- fertilizers
How many potato growing technologies are there?
In addition to growing in the traditional method and in the Dutch way, there are other new methods: Chinese; technology developed by Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Jacob Mittleider from the USA; the method of Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima, who spent her childhood in a working-class village in the Southern Urals.
Which varieties are suitable
Varieties from Holland are immune to diseases, they are high-yielding, but they are not not suitable for planting in northern Russia. There it is better to plant domestic zoned varieties adapted for home conditions.
It is necessary to plant both early and late potatoes in the country.
Suitable Dutch potato varieties:
- Anosta- early. The tubers are yellow and smooth. The pulp is creamy. Potatoes are immune to nematodes.
- Red Scarlett- early. The tubers are scarlet in color, the flesh is snow-white, and does not change color when cooked.
- - early variety. It is planted in the Central regions of Russia and in the Siberian Federal District. It takes 50 days from germination to harvest.
- Jarla- early. It is unpretentious in care and can be planted even in depleted lands.
- Prior- early. He is immune to viral diseases, nematode, late blight.
- - mid-early. The tubers are pinkish, the flesh is snow-white. Immune to late blight.
- Monalisa- mid-early. Has immunity to all diseases.
- - mid-season. The tubers are yellow, the flesh is creamy. Resistant to mechanical damage.
- Eba- mid-late. Immune to viral diseases. The tubers are yellowish in color.
Domestic varieties:
- - mid-early variety. Immune to nematode, cancer, scab, mosaic and other diseases. But its disadvantage is that tubers are stored at a temperature of about 0 degrees, otherwise they will germinate.
- . Has immunity to diseases. It tastes great, but the tubers have very little starch, so they don't cook well. You can harvest 600 kg of potatoes per hundred square meters.
- - early variety. Has immunity to all diseases. The tubers are yellowish, the flesh is snow-white.
- Zdabytak - late variety. Immune to diseases. In tubers a large number of starch.
Is this method suitable for growing potatoes in the country?
Potatoes are grown in the fields, using machinery, and in dachas, doing all the operations manually.
Technology in detail
What is the Dutch way?
- To grow tuber crops, varieties from Holland are taken that are immune to diseases and produce a large number of tubers. And in northern regions In Russia, domestic zoned varieties are planted. Selecting required only healthy tubers. Change the varieties planted.
- Tubers are selected that are 3-5 cm in diameter, with 100% germination.
- According to the planting scheme, they plant per 1 m² 6-8 tubers. It seems to the Russian gardener that with such planting the land is empty in vain, but with this technology the bushes grow spreading, they have powerful roots, and the harvest is larger than with the traditional planting method.
- The Dutch also feed potatoes, taking into account the needs of this variety.
- It requires hilling and pour ridges 10 cm high.
- The harvest must be collected on time. If you need seed material, potatoes are dug up a month earlier than tubers intended for consumption.
Selection and preparation of seed material
Select smooth, healthy tubers for planting diameter 3-5 cm, best varietal.
Potatoes that are smaller in size should not be chosen, as the grown bushes will be very weak. Potato bigger size Plant only if the harvest comes from your own seeds. Each selected tuber has 5 eyes.
A month before planting, potatoes are germinated. Potatoes are planted when the sprouts at the eyes are 0.5 cm, but this is for mechanized planting.
It is necessary to choose the right time for planting so that the sprouts do not die from return frosts. The tubers are carefully placed in polyethylene bags with handles when the sprouts are 0.5 cm high. This makes it convenient to transport the potatoes to the planting site. To plant manually, wait until the sprouts, placed in plastic bags, grow to 2.5-3 cm.
Tilling the land before planting
Potatoes will be less sick and affected by pests if they are planted in one place once every 3 years. You need to give the soil a rest and not plant anything at all for 1 year, but mow the weeds. If you do not have such an opportunity, then plant tubers in the place where beans, peas, oats, and rye previously grew.
In the fall, phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen are scattered on level ground and the soil is dug to a depth of 22-27 cm.
If you have a slope, then in the fall do not dig up the soil and do not apply fertilizing, since in the spring everything will be flooded. useful material will wash away.
Care
- In the spring the soil is dug up, make holes 6-8 cm deep. The distance between rows is kept at 75 cm, and between holes - 30 cm. But such a large distance has its advantages:
- The soil for hilling is poured from the row spacing, because of this the tubers are located above the row spacing. The ridges are well illuminated by the sun's rays, and oxygen is supplied to the root system.
- The cross-sectional area of the ridge is 1200-1500 cm².
- During heavy rains, water does not stagnate under the bushes, as it is located between the rows;
- When it is hot and there is no rain, there is enough moisture in the ridge so that the potatoes do not die from drought before rain or watering.
- Rotted manure or humus is first placed in the hole.
- Then add 100 g of ash and a handful of crushed egg shells, as well as a little onion peel, which will repel wireworms and slugs.
- Tubers placed in the holes with the sprouts facing up and sprinkle with soil.
- If you see weeds growing, pull them out.
- When the sprouts grow, hill them up so that the ridges are 10 cm high.
- If there is a threat of frost, then young shoots are sprinkled with soil, and tall shoots are bent down and covered with soil. When warm weather comes again, the bushes are lifted and watered with water from a watering can.
- 14 days after planting, the weeds are pulled out and the soil is removed from the rows add to sprouts so that the ridges become approximately 25 cm high, the width of the ridges at the base is 75 cm, and at the top - 30 cm.
- When attacked Colorado potato beetles bushes are sprayed with insecticides.
- If there is a drought, then the bushes are watered 1-3 times per season (1-2 times before the buds open, 1 time when the flowers open).
When and how to harvest
First, mow the tops, and after 10 days, dig up the bushes.
Then the peel will be strong, and the potatoes will be able to sit for a longer period of time without spoiling.
That is, growing potatoes in the Dutch way means planting tubers at a distance of 30 cm, maintaining a distance between rows of 70 cm. This also means pouring high ridges and taking into account the need of potatoes for fertilizers.