In this article we continue to select potted plants for forcing by March 8th. You have already learned how to grow primroses, cinerarias, violas and daisies. But there is another luxurious potted plant that is ideal for forcing in a cold greenhouse - this is calceolaria. Because of the original flowers they call it shoes, people immediately pay attention to it. Growing calceolaria is fun, it grows well, and it can be transplanted without any fuss. She is in demand on the market; everyone likes her delicate, bright, unusual shoes. If you have never grown calceolaria from seeds for sale on March 8, try it, you will definitely succeed!
To prevent calceolaria from causing much trouble, you need to follow a few simple rules.
1. Remember - this shade-loving flower, she can't stand straight lines at all sun rays, but loves a bright location.
2. You should not keep blooming calceolaria in a room where the temperature is above 15 degrees. She needs coolness high temperatures the plant quickly ages and is attacked by pests.
3. You need to make sure there is enough water. If you grow calceolaria in an apartment or on a balcony, take care of the humidity and the plant will not shed buds, which it usually does when in a dry room. Place the pots on damp pebbles or expanded clay.
4. Calceolaria loves abundant watering, but make sure that the water from the hose does not get on the leaves, otherwise this will lead to various spots. She also does not tolerate stagnant moisture in pots. In a greenhouse, it is better to place calceolaria on capillary mats or on a moisture-absorbing bedding.
Sowing
Before sowing, we check the quality of the peat substrate. To do this, be sure to carry out a pH test for acidity - with a meter or litmus strips. For good growth plants, it should have an indicator of 5.5 - 6.5. To avoid fungal diseases at the initial stage of cultivation and damage to seedlings by scaricides, the soil can be heated. Pour some substrate onto a baking sheet and put it in the oven. Stir occasionally and check the temperature with your palm. As soon as you feel that it is hot enough, take out the baking sheet and pour the soil into a bucket, which we cover with a lid, wrap it up and leave it until the contents cool. After this, the substrate must be sifted, poured into a container, compacted a little and moistened from a spray bottle with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water. The seeds of calceolaria are very small, actually dust, for this it is better to mix them with dry sand or talcum powder and scatter them evenly over the soil. If you purchased dragees, spread them out and do not sprinkle them. Moisten the seeds or pills with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water and place the container in an incubator or cover with glass and place under a lamp in a bright, warm room. You can wrap it in film. For calceolaria to germinate, a temperature of +20 C is required; ventilate the crops several times a day and, if necessary, moisten them with water from a spray bottle.
Seedling care
Tiny seedlings appear in about 10–15 days and require careful care. Sprouts are easily washed out of the ground, so you need to water them carefully with a fine sprayer, try not to dry them out, but also don’t overly moisten them. After a couple of days, open and take the container to a bright, cool room.
In order for the seedlings to take root without loss, spray them with a solution of Cultifort Raiz 3 ml per 1 liter of water. It is designed to stimulate the root system and protect tender seedlings from fungal diseases.
After three days, spray with a solution of Foliquino 2 ml + BVC 2021 2 ml per 10 liters of water. This will promote the friendly growth of green mass in case of insufficient lighting and negative stress factors.
Picking
Calceolaria grows quickly, as soon as a couple of main leaves appear, you can plant them in 6 x 6 x 6 cassettes. It is better to use the substrate of the same composition as when sowing. Before picking, we spill the soil with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water and the next morning we plant one sprout per cell. At the end of the process, pour 3 ml of Cultimar solution per 1 liter of water under the spine, to which you can add 2 ml of the anti-stress stimulant Cultifort-AM 11%.
Caring for seedlings after picking
We place the cassettes on racks covered with moisture-absorbing fabric or on capillary mats and, at first, keep the temperature at + 18 C, at night - up to + 15 C. While the calceolaria is taking root, water it carefully at the root, without getting it on the leaves. As soon as it takes root and the roots appear in the holes on the bottoms of the cells, we wet only the litter. It will absorb as much moisture as it needs.
We periodically apply foliar fertilizing using a fine sprayer. effective drugs.
10 days after picking, spray with Cultimar solution 5 ml per 1 liter of water. This will ensure rapid and friendly growth of the vegetative mass of plants. In a short period of time it will relieve stress and activate the full absorption of nutrients.
After a week, pour a solution of Microvital L 2 ml per 10 liters of water into the root, you can add it to a drop if you have had drip irrigation. The drug has a long-lasting effect, during which nutrients are used by plants according to their needs.
7 days after feeding Microvital L we repeat foliar treatment solution of Cultimar preparations 5 ml + S Progen Growth 5 g per 1 liter of water.
Transshipment
Approximately one and a half to two months after picking, we transfer the grown plants into pots No. 10 or No. 12. It is advisable to use the substrate of the same composition as when sowing and the first picking. After transferring, pour 3 ml of Cultimar solution per 1 liter of water into the root. It will renew and stimulate root system.
After 7-10 days, treat the leaf with a solution of S Progen Growth 5 g per 1 liter of water. During this period, S Progen Growth will continue the development of green mass and increase the plants' resistance to root rot.
As they grow, the pots with calceolaria need to be moved apart so that they do not stretch out and the leaves do not touch each other, and once a week they should be sprayed with Cultinet 5 ml per 1 liter of water, to which you can add any insecticide, for example Vertimek or Teppeki. Preventative treatment should be carried out regularly, since calceolaria is a tasty morsel for aphids and whiteflies. And, as you know, it’s better to prevent it than to not know where to run later.
Stimulation
To lay many buds and to maintain a compact appearance, we carry out the first stimulation with a solution of the drug Floron 0.5 ml per 1 liter of water. We do this at night. After 7 days we repeat the treatment. This drug is a kind delicious compote for flowering plants, provoke and stimulate quality continuous flowering, stimulates the formation of flower buds. With its help, you can force any capricious plant to bloom, and at the same time it will expel buds throughout its entire life, and not for a certain period of time. 7 days after the second treatment with the Floron stimulator, spray the calceolaria with a solution of Cultifort-AM 11% 3 ml + Cultinet 3 ml per 1 liter of water. This will relieve stress after treatment with stimulants and at the same time protect your plants from pests.
Bloom
As soon as the buds appear, foliar feeding with a solution of Enermax 0.5 g per 1 liter of water is recommended. In three days we will foliar feeding solution of drugs S Progen Size 2 g + Brentax KCa 20 g per 1 liter of water. The first drug promotes luxurious and uniform flowering, the second prolongs flowering. In order for calceolaria to bloom profusely and for a long time, we reduce the temperature in the room to +14 C. We do not allow the substrate to dry out, but we also do not allow moisture to stagnate in the pots.
When sown in early September, calceolaria will bloom in early February (if sown in early September). The flowers bloom unevenly, starting from the crown and gradually covering the entire bush in tiers. At this stage, for full and abundant flowering, plants require many useful microelements, so once every 7 days we fertilize with a solution of S Progen Size 2 g + Brentax KCa 20 g per 1 liter of water, carefully spraying over the leaves, avoiding contact with the flowers .
All fertilizers, stimulants, calceolaria seeds for cultivation by March 8, you can purchase from us in the online store www.site
If you have any questions, ask! We will be happy to answer them for you! Good luck!
Forcing flowering perennials into room conditions
Indoor flowers: Forcing flowering perennials indoors
In well-lit rooms located on the south and south-west side of the house, you can admire blooming lilies of the valley, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, lilacs, etc.
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Calla lilies. Forcing calla lilies
To get high-quality calla lilies in a greenhouse in winter, you need to plant them in early August. Callas grow well in well-amended soils organic fertilizers(sheep, cow manure). Two weeks before planting, organic fertilizer is scattered evenly and the soil is dug to a depth of 30-35cm. Calla lilies rhizomes are planted on ridges, the distance between plants in a row is 25 cm, between rows up to 70 cm.
Planting is carried out during the dormant period of plants, when the roots and leaves die off (in summer, when watering stops), or during the growing season with a developed root system and leaves. The daughter plants are separated from the mother plant (nest) (preserving the maximum number of roots) and planted, leaving the apical leaves (the lateral leaves are cut off), into moist soil and watered.
Early boarding, careful care allows you to get flowers as early as November and December.
Calla lilies flowers are usually pulled out by a sharp movement by the peduncle. To avoid damaging well-rooted plants, you should press the bush to the ground with one hand and pull out the flowers with the other.
Calla lilies flowers must be cut at the stage when the wrapper begins to unfold (when it turns white). At this time, calla lilies are at their most beautiful and stay fresh longer.
If callas grow without transplantation for the 2nd year, then for them normal development, in August, the bases of the bushes should be opened from the soil to 10 cm. In addition, young daughter rhizomes are separated from large nests, leaving one central one and up to three young ones. All sprouted and unsprouted plants on the remaining plants are removed and up to 1 kg of fertilizer is applied to each bush, then covered with soil.
Gerbera. Forcing gerbera.
Gerbera flowers are distinguished by an unusual range of colors and elegant structure. Gerbera is propagated by seeds, as well as by separating young shoots and then rooting them. Gerbera grows well in an acidic substrate. In alkaline soils, for its normal development, regular acidification with hydrochloric or sulfuric acid and a full range of mineral fertilizers is necessary.
The soil is prepared from 50% peat, 35% humus and 15% coarse sand. Gerberas are grown in the ground, on shelves, or in greenhouse pots. Abundant flowering from March to May.
Freesia. Freesia forcing.
An unpretentious bulbous plant grown for flowers from January to March. Plant 10-15 bulbs in small bowls and pots. In indoor conditions they are grown on bright balconies, in greenhouses: in the ground or on shelves. The planting period is the entire month of October. Planting depth 5-6cm; per 1 square meter of area from 150 to 250 pieces (depending on the size of the bulbs). Grows well in soils rich in organic fertilizers. Freesia is usually propagated by seedlings, formed several times per bulb, and by seeds.
When planting small children, freesia blooms later. The color of the flowers is white, yellow, orange, purple. Freesia flowers pleasant aroma. Flower shape is bell, small size(up to 5 cm in diameter), 5-9 pieces per peduncle.
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Lilies of the valley and hyacinths blooming on December 31 or tulips and crocuses blooming by March 8 are not a fairy tale, but the most real reality. A similar miracle can be achieved if you resort to forcing plants - a simple way to obtain flowering crops at an inappropriate time for them. To do this, flowers or shrubs need to create conditions close to spring in order to speed up vegetative processes.
Forcing flowers at home: terms and rules
When there is a blizzard outside and the temperature is minus twenty, I really want to speed up the arrival of spring. But this is quite within the capabilities of any gardener, even in an ordinary city apartment. It's about about forcing. Transformation of an onion into beautiful flower every time it is perceived as a miracle, as a challenge to nature. In those days when natural plants are still very far away, fragrant hyacinths or exquisite daffodils, bright tulips, delicate crocuses or original bulbous irises may appear in our home.
Modern methods of forcing bulbous plants make it possible to obtain flowering crops starting in December. Lilacs lend themselves well to forcing from shrubs; you can even make branches bloom in nutrient solution. Lilies of the valley are also often grown in winter.
According to the timing, forcing is divided into:
- very early (end of December - January 1);
- early (January);
- middle (February - March 8);
- late (end of March);
- very late (after April 1).
Beginners can be advised to do middle and late forcing at home - it is much easier and will allow you to acquire certain skills.
When forcing bulbous crops, you must follow three basic rules:
- Digging of bulbs from open ground is carried out earlier than usual, before the leaves turn yellow and dry out.
- First, the bulbs are kept at elevated temperatures.
- All bulbs then require a cooling period.
If forcing flowers at home is carried out by March 8 and later, then the first two conditions are not necessary.
IN major cities Now you can buy imported bulbs (usually from Holland), which are specially prepared for earlier flowering - the packaging is marked “For forcing.” They are more expensive than regular ones, and they need to be planted as soon as possible after purchase.
Technology for forcing plants at home
If you are planning to prepare the bulbs for forcing yourself, this must be done in advance. Large, dense bulbs with a small even bottom, intended for forcing on next year, planted in a separate bed. In tulips and daffodils, after coloring the buds, decapitation is carried out, that is, the heads are cut off; Hyacinth inflorescences are sniffed after the first flower opens. This creates favorable conditions for the development of bulbs.
In order for all the rules of forcing technology to be strictly followed, after digging, the largest, healthiest bulbs are selected.
From daffodils, it is better to take one or two-vertex bulbs with a diameter of at least 4.5 cm, which produce 1-2 peduncles. Three-peaked plants can throw out a third peduncle, but the flower will be smaller and bloom later. It must be remembered that size is not always the criterion for the readiness of bulbs for forcing. Some varieties of daffodils (for example, small-crowned) and tulips (Triumph) have small bulbs.
However, decisive importance in preparing bulbous flowers for forcing is temperature regime. When bulbs are dug up ahead of schedule, they do not have time to complete the processes of forming a flower bud. Therefore, they must be exposed to elevated temperatures. The bulbs are kept for 7 days at 34 °C in a thermostat, a converted incubator, or a germination cabinet. Then the bulbs are stored at a temperature approximately corresponding to the natural one at this time of year: until August at 23-25 °C, in August at 20 °C, from September until planting - at 16-17 °C.
To force bulbous plants at home, the bulbs are usually planted in the first half of October in a neutral, moisture-intensive, breathable substrate - a light garden soil, sand, peat, perlite or a mixture of these components. There is also a method of forcing using hydroponics. Hyacinths can also bloom in ordinary water, but if you want to save the bulbs for later use in landscaping, you need to plant them in pots with a fertilized earthen mixture. Bulbs planted in the substrate must be cooled at a temperature of 8-9 °C. For daffodils and tulips the cooling period is 16-22 weeks, for hyacinths it is shorter - 10-16 weeks. During this period of artificially simulated winter, the growth hormone gibberellin is synthesized and accumulated in the bulbs, rooting occurs and the growth of the peduncle and leaves begins.
Before forcing, you need to prepare pots or other containers. In pots with a diameter of 9 cm, one large onion is placed, 13 cm - 3 onions, 16 cm in diameter - 5. The largest ones are planted almost closely, and gaps of up to 1 cm are left between the smaller ones.
They also use standard plastic boxes (60 x 40 x 18 cm) with support legs, where you can place 50-60 large hyacinth bulbs, 60-80 daffodil bulbs or 80 tulips. Plant the bulbs closely, but in such a way that they do not touch each other or the walls of the container. Then water abundantly: after watering, the tops of the bulbs should peek out from the substrate. Tulips are watered with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate, since their bulbs are poor in calcium. This feeding prevents the formation of blind buds and drooping of future flowers.
Then the boxes are installed in a dark, cold room with an air temperature of 8-9 ° C and a relative humidity of more than 95%. Pots can be stored in the bottom section of a household refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap to maintain high level humidity. The substrate is watered weekly. During rooting, humidity is increased to almost 100%, ventilation is reduced. After rooting, air humidity is reduced to 70% with constant ventilation, avoiding drafts. Boxes or pots can be buried in the garden; when cold weather sets in, they are covered with leaves and foam rubber so that the temperature in the area where the bulbs are located does not fall below 0 °C. If the flowers are “in a hurry” or “late” to the scheduled date, correction is carried out by increasing or decreasing the temperature.
To determine the time when it is necessary to start cooling the bulbs (for example, daffodils), add another 2.5 weeks to 16-18 weeks for the development of peduncles and leaves in the light and the resulting result (18-20.5 weeks) is counted from the desired flowering date. For example, for forcing by March 8, cooling must begin in the first ten days of October. In hyacinths, the development of flower stalks takes up to two weeks, in tulips - up to three or four. If you want to get a cut at the end of March - beginning of April, you need to start planting and cooling in the middle - end of October and keep the daffodils at 5-8 ° C. At this temperature, the peduncles and leaves will still continue to grow, and by the time of planting, that is, transferring the planted bulbs to a bright, warm room, they can stretch up to 20 cm, which will lead to their lodging. To avoid this, in mid-December the temperature is reduced to 2 °C for March forcing and to 0.5 °C for later forcing.
Photos “Forcing bulbous plants at home” will help you better understand the technology of the process:
Flower forcing schemes for March 8 and New Year
Forcing using nine-degree technology by February 23 - March 8 is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The bulbs are dug up at the usual time.
- From July 15 to October 1, the bulbs are stored in storage at a temperature of 17-20 °C.
- Planting in the substrate in batches from October 1 to October 10.
- Store in the refrigerator at 9 °C until December 1, then at a temperature of 2-3 °C.
- After January 25, they are transferred to a greenhouse where the temperature is maintained at 16-18 °C.
- Flowering occurs 3.5-4 weeks after planting.
Forcing for the New Year using five-degree technology is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The bulbs are dug up no later than June 20, before the leaves dry out.
- Dry for 1 day.
- Warm up for 1 week at a temperature of 34 ° C, air humidity 70%.
- Then it is kept for 2-3 weeks at a temperature of 20 °C.
- The bulbs are placed in the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of 5 ° C and air humidity of 70%.
- Planted in the substrate on October 25 and installed in a bright room.
- For the first 2 weeks, the soil temperature is maintained at 10-11 °C, air temperature at 11-13 °C, then at 16 and 16-18 °C, respectively.
- Tulips bloom in 6-8 weeks.
Forcing flowers by March 8 using five-degree technology is carried out according to the following scheme:
- From mid-July to mid-October, the bulbs are stored in storage at a temperature of 20 °C.
- Refrigerate at 5°C for 12 weeks.
- Planting in the substrate on January 10-20.
- The first two weeks maintain soil temperatures of 10-11 °C, air temperatures of 11-13 °C, then 16 and 16-18 °C, respectively.
- Flowering occurs in 6-8 weeks.
Very often, flower growers make the mistake of trying to speed up flowering by increasing the temperature at the last stage of forcing. The air temperature in the greenhouse in December, January and February should not be higher than 18 °C, and the soil temperature - 16 °C. At higher temperatures, many cutting qualities deteriorate, blind buds appear, flowers overturn, plants are damaged by fusarium and ethylene toxicosis. Larger flowers are formed at 15 °C, but the growing season is extended by an average of 5 days.
How to force hyacinth bulbs for the New Year at home (with video)
Hyacinths obtained by forcing are superior in decorativeness even to open ground plants: they have a large, dense inflorescence with a much larger (sometimes 2 times) number of flowers and a higher peduncle.
How to force hyacinths for the New Year and Christmas? Not all varieties are suitable for early forcing, but only those that require a short cooling period. The bulbs are dug out of the ground a week earlier than usual. To force hyacinths for the New Year and Christmas, bulbs weighing 60-80 g, with a diameter of at least 4 cm are selected, dried and stored for 2 weeks at 30 ° C. For the next 3 weeks, maintain the temperature at 25 °C. Then the bulbs are stored for a month at 22-23 °C and then until planting at a temperature of 16-17 °C. Hyacinth bulbs are planted for forcing into the substrate from October 1 to October 5. Containers with bulbs are transferred to the basement, where the temperature is maintained at 8-9 ° C and the relative humidity is more than 95%. Small pots can be placed at the bottom of the refrigerator, wrapped in a plastic bag. Optimal timing cooling 10-14 weeks. The suspension of forcing hyacinths at home is carried out 14-20 days before the scheduled flowering date. The room temperature should be 23-25 °C. For the first 3-4 days, hyacinths are shaded with black film or paper so that the flower stalks stretch out. When the flowers begin to open, the temperature is reduced to 16-18 ° C, which will prolong flowering. Water daily in the morning. Cut after all the flowers in the inflorescence have opened.
Preparing hyacinths for flowering in late February - early March. Bulbs are dug out of the ground at the usual time. Until September 1, store at a temperature of 20-25 °C, then maintain 17 °C for a month. Plant no later than October 5th. Until December 15, cooling is carried out at 8-9 ° C. Then, to slow down the growing season, the temperature is reduced to 1-2 °C. Plants are brought into the light 3-4 weeks before the planned flowering date.
Suitable varieties for November forcing are “Anna-Marie” - pink, “Bismarck” - light purple, “General Köhler” - blue (double), “La Victoire” - pink-red, “Ostara” - blue, “ Rosalia" - pink, "Tubergen Scarlet" - red.
For flowering in December-January, it is better to use “Blue Magic” - blue, “Violet Pearl” - lilac, “Delft Blue” - blue, “Innosance” - , “Lord Bal-four” - dark lilac, “Marconi” - pink , “Pink Pearl” - pink, “Eros” - pink, “Jan Bos” - red.
For February forcing, they recommend “Amethyst” - lilac, “Amsterdam” - pink-red, “Ben Nevis” - white (terry), “Blue Jacket” - blue, “Trootvorst” - light lilac (terry), “Gypsy Queen” - orange, "Yellow Hammer" - yellow, "Carnegie" - white, "Lady Derby" - pink, "Menelik" - black and purple, "Pearl Diamond" - blue.
Almost all varieties are suitable for late forcing, but the following are more often used: Indigo King - black and blue, "King Codro" - blue (double), "Sunflower" - pale cream (double), "City of Harlem" -, "Hollyhock" " - raspberry (terry), "Horkey" - cream (terry), "Chesnut Flower" - pink (terry), "Cyclops" - red.
When forcing hyacinths, like other bulbous plants, problems may arise:
- Yellow leaves. Most often, drafts lead to yellowing of leaves; insufficient lighting or improper lighting can also contribute to this.
- The buds do not open. If watered irregularly, the buds may dry out without opening. In addition, the buds may not open when water gets on them due to careless watering.
- Uneven flowering. The main reason for this is planting bulbs of different sizes in the same pot.
- Long withered leaves. This defect appears when a pot of plants is kept in the dark for too long. Another reason may be insufficient lighting during flowering.
- Slow growth. Pots with plants were moved too early to a bright room, without waiting for the sprouts to reach a height of 3-5 cm. Another reason could be insufficient watering plants during forcing.
- Lack of flowering. Plants will not bloom if too much is used for forcing. small bulbs or the cooling period has not been maintained.
- Flower rotting. This is caused by waterlogging of the substrate. It is necessary to plant the bulbs in pots with drainage holes. Excess water when watering is drained by slightly tilting the pot.
Watch the video “Forcing hyacinths” to avoid all of the above problems:
Forcing daffodils in winter at home
The simplest scheme for forcing daffodils in winter is by March 8th. The bulbs are dug up at the usual time, the largest ones are selected, weighing 80-90 g, preferably double-topped. Before planting, store in the shade at normal air temperatures, but not more than 25 ° C. At the beginning of October, the bulbs are planted in standard boxes in fertile soil. Contained in unheated room at a temperature of 5-9 °C. They are transferred to light in February and kept for the first 3-5 days at a temperature of 10-13 °C, then at 16 °C. Flowering occurs in 25-30 days.
The choice of varieties for forcing daffodils at home is limited only for early dates. Typically used are Barrett Browning, Flower Record, and Golden Harvist.
For later forcing, you can take any daffodils, except for the most late-flowering ones; “Ice Follies” and “Mount Hood” are traditionally used. For potted culture, low or even miniature varieties like “Tete-a-Tete” are better suited.
Technology on how to force tulips by March 8 (with video)
And now about how to force tulips by March 8 according to the five-degree scheme. To obtain cuttings for Women's Day, bulbs weighing at least 25 g are suitable, and for forcing for the New Year, bulbs must be larger, weighing at least 30-35 g.
As you can see in the photo of forcing tulips, the fuller the bulbs, the larger and best quality there will be flowers:
IN last years The five-degree forcing method has become widespread, in which the bulbs are cooled before planting in the substrate. They are kept in the refrigerator at 5 °C in gauze bags. The optimal cooling time for bulbs for forcing tulips at home is 12 weeks for the Darwin hybrid class and 9-10 weeks for varieties of other classes.
According to the technology of forcing tulips, 6-7 weeks before the expected flowering date, cooled bulbs are planted in a substrate and exposed to light, the air temperature is maintained at 16-18 ° C. Thus, the process of active root growth coincides with the growth of leaves and peduncle. In this way, five-degree forcing differs from nine-degree forcing, when the bulbs take root during the cooling period.
After forcing, tulip bulbs are usually destroyed. However, rare varieties can be grown in open ground; their restoration takes 1-2 seasons.
Now watch the video “Forcing tulips by March 8” and try to get flowering plants for Women's Day on your own:
The best varieties of tulips for forcing at home
The best varieties of tulips for forcing at home are:
From Darwin's hybrids- varieties “Oxford Elite”, “Eric Hofsue”, “Forgotten Dreams”, “Scarborough”, “Ad Rem”, “Vivex”, “Königin Wilhelmina” (red different shades with yellow or orange border), “Ivory Floradale” (cream white), “Gordon Cooper” (pink).
From the Triumph class- varieties “Alberio” (red with a white border), “Kis Nelis” (dark red with an orange border), “Blizzard” (pure white).
For beginners, we can recommend the varieties of Darwin hybrids: “Diplomat” (dark red with a strong waxy coating) and “Oxford”, or rather its clone (flowers of an elongated shape, orange-red, with a slightly greenish bottom). They are quite decorative, easier to force than others, and the bulbs are relatively cheap.
For forcing in pots, simple early varieties are usually used, for example, “Christmas Marvel”.
But it is better to give preference to short ones, with bright and large flowers hybrids of tulips "Foster" and "Greig": "Toronto" (pink), "Dano" (white-pink), "Grand Prix" (red with yellow border), "Princess", "Grand Prestige", "Princess Charmant" "(red, the last one with a strong pleasant smell).
The clone of the Excellent tulip “Fusi” (orange, multi-flowered) is also good for these purposes.
The range of varieties for five-degree technology is somewhat smaller than for nine-degree technology, but still quite wide.
The most commonly used Darwin hybrids with red coloring are “Oxford”, “Parade”, “London”.
Much more spectacular are flowers with a yellow, orange or white border along the edges of the petals: “Forgotten Dreams”, “Eric Hofsue”, “Gordon Cooper”.
The pure pink “Pink Impression” is very good.
Lower-growing Triumph class tulips are also used: “Kis Nelis”, “Lustige Vitve”, “Apricot Beauty”.
Planting crocuses and bulbous irises for forcing at home
Crocuses and bulbous irises are used much less frequently for forcing, but you cannot deny yourself the pleasure of receiving touching buds of delicate flowers in the middle of winter.
Of the irises for forcing at home, the most commonly used species are reticulate and Denford.
The bulbs are dug up in early June, the largest ones are selected, stored at 20 ° C until mid-August and then at 9 ° C until planting. They are planted in the substrate in early October so that the distance between the bulbs is 1 cm, sprinkled with a 1 cm layer of soil on top. When forcing bulbous irises, boxes or pots with planted bulbs are kept for 14-16 weeks at a temperature of 9 ° C. Then they are transferred to a bright room, where the temperature is maintained at 16 - 18 °C. Plants bloom in 2 weeks, flowering lasts 7-9 days. Watering is moderate.
All types and their numerous hybrids are suitable for forcing crocuses at home, blooming in spring: spring crocus, golden-flowered crocus, beautiful crocus.
Among the varietal crocuses most often used for forcing are Flower Record, Purple Sensation, Pickwick, Grand Yellow, Joan of Arc, and Remembrance.
For forcing in February-March, large bulbs after harvesting are stored at a temperature of 20 ° C until September, then at 17 ° C until planting. Planting of crocuses for forcing into the substrate is carried out from early October to mid-November, depending on the period of forcing. The bulbs are lightly pressed into the ground almost close to each other. Can be distilled in glass flasks with water. Cooling period: 5 weeks at 9°C, then 10 weeks at 5°C. If it is necessary to delay flowering, the temperature is temporarily reduced to 1-2 °C. Next, the containers with rooted and sprouted bulbs are transferred to a bright room and kept at a temperature of 15-17 ° C 2-3 weeks before the expected flowering date. For the first time after transferring them to light, it is advisable to cover the plants with paper caps so that the flower stalks stretch out a little.
Technology for forcing lilies of the valley at home
Another spring Flower can please us in the cold season - lily of the valley. Garden forms May lily of the valley can be successfully forced. In autumn, flower and vegetative buds are clearly visible on the rhizomes. The first ones are larger, blunt-ended and directed vertically upward. To force lilies of the valley, cut pieces of rhizomes with flower buds and roots are taken. Harvesting of sprouts is carried out after the above-ground part of the plant dies off - from late September to mid-October. They are placed in bunches in a box and covered with damp moss or covered with sawdust to protect them from drying out. The boxes are buried in the garden. With the onset of frost (-5-6 °C) it is kept at outdoors within another week. Then, around the first half of November, they are transferred to the basement.
It will take 25-30 days to get flowering plants for the New Year. Before forcing lilies of the valley at home, the rhizomes are kept for 10 hours in warm water (30-35 ° C), preventing the temperature from dropping.
Then they are placed in small containers filled with damp moss or leafy soil, shaded with black paper and installed in a room at 25-30 ° C (next to the radiators or directly on them). The substrate is kept moist, the plants are sprayed with warm water every day. When the peduncle reaches a height of 8-10 cm and buds are formed, the paper is removed and the containers are transferred to the windowsill, where the air temperature should be 12-15 °C. You can decorate with blooming lilies of the valley festive table, but at night they should be moved closer to the window, otherwise they will quickly fade.
Shrub forcing technology
Shrubs can be forced quite successfully. And it is not at all necessary to dig up a whole bush; cut branches are quite enough. Suitable for this method early varieties lilac. In winter, powerful, preferably central, shoots weighing at least 200 g are cut off. They are immediately brought into the room and immersed entirely in a bath with water for 12 hours. cold water. Then the ends of the branches are cut off under water and placed in a special solution in the light.
For forcing shrub plants For 10 liters of soft (snow, rain or twice boiled) water take:
- 8 g of potassium alum;
- 4 g potassium chloride;
- 3 g sodium chloride;
- 300 g sugar.
The solution is changed once a week. The room temperature should first be 20 °C, then 15 °C. The branches must be sprayed with water, and it is advisable to spray the first week sugar syrup. Flowering occurs in 22-27 days.
For the New Year, simple white varieties of lilacs work best, since purple varieties turn out pale due to lack of light. Terry lilac blooms 3-4 days later and in general it is more suitable for late forcing.
This method can be used to drive out branches and other shrubs and. At the same time, forsythia blooms after 10-12 days, chestnut - 30, wild apple and pear trees - 21, bird cherry - after 15-16 days.
Calla plant (lat. Calla), or Zantedeschia (lat. Zantedeschia)- genus perennial plants family Araceae, or Aronicaceae. Calla flower grows in damp places South America and in Africa, from Nigeria to Tanzania. It is a relative of such a plant as calla lily, or marsh calla, the only representative of its genus, whose range is located in the Northern Hemisphere. Zantedeschia is sometimes called Ethiopian calla lily, or Richardia. The flower received the name “zantedeschia” from the German botanist Kurt Sprengel, who named it in honor of his friend the Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi, but most often zantedeschia is still simply called calla lily. The attractiveness of this plant for gardeners is not only in its very large, showy leaves and unusual shape flower, but also that calla lilies can be grown both in the garden and at home, in a pot.
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Planting and caring for callas (in brief)
- Landing: tubers are planted in early May.
- Bloom: from June to early October.
- Excavation: in September.
- Storage: in an earthen coma in a dry room at a temperature of 5-7 ˚C.
- Lighting: since morning bright light, afternoon – light partial shade.
- The soil: well drained, fertile, pH slightly acidic to acidic.
- Watering: moderate, but regular, abundant in dry seasons.
- Feeding: Fertilizers are applied to the soil only during planting.
- Reproduction: vegetative, depending on the type - tubers or dividing the bush. Seed propagation is ineffective and unreliable.
- Pests: aphids, thrips, mole crickets, beetles and wireworms.
- Diseases: rhizoctonia, root rot, penicillosis, pythium, Erwinia group of bacteria.
- Properties: the plant contains poisonous alkaloids. The juice, if it comes into contact with the skin, causes irritation, and if it enters the body, it causes vomiting, numbness and convulsions.
Read more about growing calla lilies below.
Calla flowers - features
Growing calla lilies, like any other plant, requires following the rules of agricultural technology, but the main feature of these flowers is that they are grown and how garden callas- in courtyards, and in apartments, in pots, like indoor callas. But general rules Growing and caring for callas, no matter where they grow, there are still:
- callas require shallow planting, that is, the rhizomes are barely covered with soil to avoid rotting;
- What laymen call a calla flower is actually the covering leaf or spathe that wraps the spadix of the inflorescence. In fact, calla flowers are small and inconspicuous, although very fragrant;
- after planting, calla lilies do not sprout until they have formed their root system, so do not be nervous if there are no sprouts for a month;
- When digging up tubers, be careful: they are easily damaged;
- calla is a living barometer: droplets of water appear on its cover and the tips of its leaves before the rain, like tears;
- a pot for calla lilies, especially Ethiopian, is preferably porous so that it can evaporate excess moisture. In addition, Ethiopian calla loves privacy and does not tolerate neighbors in its own pot;
- each calla flower blooms for about a month;
- occasionally upper layer calla lilies in a pot should be carefully removed, trying not to damage the roots, and replaced with fresh nutrient substrate.
Growing garden calla lilies
Callas decorate the garden so much with their majestic flowers that many gardeners are happy to grow them on their farms. The clearings where calla lilies grow look like an Arabic ornamental painting: the rhizomes annually produce young shoots of leaves, and elegant arrow-peduncles rise among them...
In the photo: Purple callas
Callas prefer open, spacious areas and fertile soils, but it is advisable to shade them during the hottest hours of the day: in the scorching sun, the leaves wither, burn and dry out, so it is important that bushes or trees grow nearby, which will provide the callas with saving shade in the afternoon. The soil must be acidic or at least slightly acidic, it is required good drainage, because stagnation of water in the roots is detrimental to the plant.
The optimal composition of soil for calla lilies: earth, sand, peat and leaf humus in equal proportions.
Planting callas and caring for the garden
Planting calla lilies in spring
Garden callas are planted in early May. Previously planting material soak for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate, then carefully examine and, if necessary, cut out the rotten areas to healthy tissue, and lubricate the wounds with brilliant green. A complex mixture is added to the soil on the site. mineral fertilizer at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m², the area is dug up. Then the tubers are immersed in prepared holes to a depth of 5-10 cm at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other (depending on the size of the bulb), buried, and the planting site is well watered.
Fertilize calla lilies with a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as Kemira-Lux. Apply fertilizer to the soil along with water every fifth watering of the plant.
In the photo: Pink calla
Calla lily propagation
Calla lilies are propagated by seeds (this method is unreliable, and you will have to wait a very long time for results), tubers and dividing the bush. Calla lilies are propagated by dividing the bush as follows: In the fall, when digging, the calla lily shoot with part of the rhizome is separated and transplanted into a pot with earth mixture, and in the spring they are transplanted into open ground. If only the Ethiopian calla and its varieties are propagated by dividing the bush, then the remaining callas are propagated by tubers: in the fall the tubers are dug up, stored for the whole winter, and in the spring they are planted in open ground.
In the photo: growing calla lilies at home
Callas after flowering
There are differences in caring for tuberous callas and rhizomatous callas. For Ethiopian calla, rhizomatous, the dormant period begins in the very heat - at this time growth slows down, then stops, the calla turns yellow... At this time, watering should be reduced, and the plant should be taken to the balcony or garden in a well-lit place where it is not drops of rain will come out. In the first half of July, the plant is taken out of the pot, all old leaves and shoots are removed and transplanted into a pot with a new nutrient mixture, placed in a bright place and they begin to water and feed the calla, preparing it for the next flowering. This is the cycle of rhizomatous potted calla lilies.
Garden calla lilies remain on the site until autumn; in September, the rhizomes are dug up and stored with a ball of earth in a cool, dry room with moderate, infrequent watering.
In the photo: Calla in a pot
After flowering, tuberous calla lilies gradually turn green and droop, the leaves turn yellow and dry. Garden tuberous callas are carefully dug up in the third decade of September, trying not to damage the tubers, freed from the soil, washed and kept for a couple of weeks at a temperature of 5-10 ºC, waiting for the beneficial nutrients to pass from the leaves to the tubers. After this, dead leaves are easily removed.
In our latitudes, callas are not left in the ground for the winter. When the leaves die, they are removed, the tubers are washed well, kept for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, washed again and placed in a dark, dry place to dry, then the tubers are stored, packed in paper bags, at a temperature of 5-7 ºC: in a city apartment for this Vegetable drawers in the refrigerator are suitable.
In the photo: calla tubers
Rhizomes Ethiopian calla lilies, if you do not have the opportunity to keep it in a cool room after digging, dry it slightly and, after cutting off the leaves, store it in the same way as tubers.
Don’t forget to check weekly how the tubers and rhizomes of calla lilies are feeling: whether they have begun to dry out and wrinkle from too much warm temperature or, conversely, rot from high humidity.
If you grew calla lilies in a pot, then during the dormant period you can not remove them from the pot, but simply take them out onto a cool veranda or loggia. If you, without giving your beauty a couple of months to rest, continue to water and in every possible way provoke further growth, you can deplete the calla and it will not bloom.
Types and varieties of calla lilies
There are only eight species of calla lilies in the genus, but only three are grown in culture, and they also served as material for breeders to develop different varieties:
These are tall white callas (peduncles up to a meter or more in height), the underground part is a rhizome, and not a bulb, like other species. Ethiopian kala is moisture-loving; it does not shed its large, shiny green leaves even during the dormant period. The most popular varieties:
- Nicholas– the length of the peduncle is up to one and a half meters, the leaves are dark green, arrow-shaped, the petioles are long. The blanket is green below and outside, diameter 8-12 cm;
- Pearl – low-growing variety, height up to half a meter, suitable for growing in pots;
- Schone Zweibrückerin– the length of the peduncle is up to 1 m, the leaves are heart-shaped, light, the bottom of the spathe is dark green, the diameter of the upper part is 10-15 cm;
- Green goddess– majestic green callas of rare beauty, reaching a height of 90cm.
In the photo: Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica)
Calla rehmannii
This is a low calla lily (up to 70 cm in height) with a veil Pink colour(lilac-burgundy or red-pink) and narrow green leaves. The underground part of the plant is a tuber, similar to that of begonia or gloxinia. In autumn it loses its leaves and requires rest in winter time. Popular varieties.
I wonder if it is possible to find a man in our country who grows tulips for his beloved with his own hands? We are not talking about flowers in the beds that the husband planted several years ago when his wife instructed him to do so. This question about tulips in pots on the window, grown specially for March 8th. We hope that after carefully reading this article, many men will try to conduct a flower experiment. If they strictly follow the advice, then their loved ones will receive the most unusual and beautiful gift for the holiday in the form of luxurious tulips.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - selection of planting material
If you have a summer house, then when digging tulips from the ground, choose the largest and strongest bulbs. Their size should be at least 3.5 cm. Dig up tulips in July, when the leaves of the plants are completely dry. Dry the selected bulbs under a canopy and then transfer them to dark room with a temperature of 18-20 degrees.
You can replace digging and drying home tulips by purchasing seed material from a specialized store. Ask the seller to tell you which varieties are best for indoor growing. You can also order bulbs through the online store. Pay attention to the varieties of tulips: Abu Hassan (red-brown), Hibernia (white), Parade - Record (bright red), Aristocoat (bluish with a white border along the edges of the leaves), Maya (yellow). These flowers are considered the best for early spring forcing and are resistant to diseases.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - cooling the bulbs
At the beginning of September, move the bulbs to a place where the humidity and temperature are kept at this level: 85-90% and +5 degrees. An excellent solution in this case would be to place the bulbs on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Keep the planting material here for 30 to 35 days. Thin nylon socks or cut pieces of tights are suitable for storing in the refrigerator - the bulbs will “breathe” in them.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - planting bulbs
At the beginning of October, plant the bulbs in the ground.
- Select pots or containers. Keep in mind that the bulbs will need to be planted 1-2cm apart.
- Place 1 cm of drainage (small pebbles) at the bottom of the pot, and 3 cm of soil on it, which you prepare from a mixture of peat and coarse river sand(take equal amounts of sand and peat).
- Place the bulbs on the prepared cushion and lightly press them into the soil. Make sure that the bulbs do not touch each other.
- Lightly water the bulbs with water at room temperature. Its approximate consumption is 50 ml per onion.
- Cover the moistened bulbs completely with coarse sand.
- Make a solution of 1 liter of water and 1 g of calcium nitrate (sold in garden stores). With this solution, thoroughly pour the sand with the bulbs inside.
- Move pots or containers to a dark, cool, damp place. A basement with a temperature of +5 degrees and a humidity of 85% is suitable. If you don't have a basement, place the pots on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
- Check the soil periodically for dryness. If the sand is too loose, lightly moisten it plain water, but do not overfill. At large quantities Bulbs may rot in water.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - forcing flower stalks
Sometime in early January you will see tender, pale green sprouts in the pot. At this time, keep the tulips in the refrigerator and water them periodically. Within a month, the sprouts should grow to 3-4 cm. Do not be alarmed by their pallor - this is due to the lack of adequate lighting.
On February 4-7, remove containers or pots with sprouts from the basement or refrigerator and place them in a bright (eastern) window. Keep the temperature in the room at 17-18 degrees. Monitor soil moisture and active sun. Water once a week and with a very small amount of water. Protect plants from the sun using a protective screen made of thick white paper.
If the window on which you placed the tulips faces north or west, then additionally illuminate the plants with a special phytolamp.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - some useful tips
To make your first experience of growing tulips on a window successful, remember the following:
- Do not feed tulips with any additional fertilizer. It is enough for them that they received their portion of calcium nitrate when planting the bulbs.
- Be sure to keep the bulbs in the cold for at least one month (see point 2). If you shorten this time, the flower stalks will grow very low and the buds will become small.
- Always protect plants from direct sunlight. At the stage of leaf growth, the sun can damage the plant by producing a lot of leaves, but the bud will not grow. At the stage of bud development, the sun will harm the tulip because it will bloom very early, i.e. The heat will cause the flower to bloom prematurely.
If you follow all the rules, beautiful and strong tulips will bloom for Women's Day. In the same way as tulips, you can grow other bulbous plants. These are hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops.