Unlike electric heated floors using liquid coolant, it requires more complex calculations for integration into the heating system. The service life and efficiency of the system directly depend on the correct choice of materials, fittings, installation and heating operation scheme.
Selection of pipes for floor heating
Contrary to popular belief, the choice of pipes for installing a heat exchanger in the floor is not so wide. There are two options: cross-linked polyethylene and copper. The most obvious advantages special materials - durability, resistance to deformation, low coefficient of linear expansion. But the main advantage is the oxygen barrier, which ultimately prevents the formation of sediment on the inner surface of the pipes.
The point of using copper is the high thermal conductivity of the tubes and resistance to corrosion. An obvious disadvantage is the complexity of installation and high risk failure in the presence of solid particles (sand) in the coolant. Despite the fact that for soldering you only need an inexpensive gas lamp and flux, bending the coil correctly is a difficult task. This is despite the fact that there can be several dozen turns of the copper tube and one mistake, resulting in a break, leads to the failure of the entire segment or the need for additional soldering.
Polymer (polyethylene) tubes have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion; in addition, they lose their strength properties when heated above operating temperatures, however, in heated floors, in principle, the coolant does not heat up above 40 °C. Ease of installation is an obvious plus. It bends easily and is laid in a spiral or coil. The pipe is supplied in coils of 200 m, allowing you to lay warm floors without a single connection throughout the entire volume of the future screed. Most branded polyethylene tubes involve the use special tool for crimping and welding.
Providing circulation
Water heating systems with underfloor heating do not operate on the gravitational principle and always remain energy dependent. Because of this, overheating occurs: failures in the circulation and recirculation system can reach 70-80ºС, so the savings on the use of polymer tubes should be at least partially spent on improving automation and auxiliary mechanisms.
The flow rate of the coolant in the tubes is strictly regulated by the manufacturer; assigning this task to the general circulation of the system means increasing the risk of operational failures. A device must be installed in front of the collector unit forced circulation, then each of the circuits is adjusted to adjust the required flow rate. This determines maximum length loops of each circuit and the temperature difference at its beginning and end.
To pump water through the system, circulation pumps designed for radiator heating systems are used. The diameter of the pipes is determined by the required throughput of the pipe through which the pump is connected to the collector. The lifting height (or discharge pressure) is determined by the total hydrodynamic resistance of the pipes, declared by their manufacturer for different loop configurations and bending radii. Each connection requires an increase in lifting height. Speed adjustment for underfloor heating pumps is not required, however, with accelerated circulation, more intensive pumping of the system is possible to quickly reach the operating mode.
Collector unit
When using more than one branch for floor heating, the presence of a collector unit (comb) is strictly necessary. Independent soldering of the collector, even for two loops, will not give the required result; it is almost impossible to balance the lines in the absence of uniform distribution and valve regulators.
The collector is selected both by the number of branches and by the total throughput. Essentially, this is a multi-channel flow regulator. The most preferred case materials are stainless steel and high-quality brass. For heated floors, two types of collectors can be used. If the difference in the length of the circuits is less than 20-30 meters, ordinary brass valves with ball valves are suitable. If there is a greater variation in hydrodynamic resistance, a specialized manifold with flow regulators at each outlet is needed.
Please note that it is not necessary to buy a dual (flow + return) manifold. You can install a high-quality mixer with flow meters on the supply line, and a cheaper one with valve (not ball) valves on the return line. Separately, it is worth paying attention to what type of pipes the collector unit is designed for. Most cheap products involve the connection of MP pipes, which are poorly suited for heated floors and therefore are used less and less. For polyethylene circuits, it is better to invest in reliable and proven REHAU manifolds, for systems with copper tubes - Valtec and APE. Connecting copper tubes to the manifold is recommended through a flare and/or threaded fitting; direct soldering is not recommended due to the low maintainability of such connections.
Temperature preparation unit
The branch comb itself is not the entire collector. The assembled mixing unit is equipped with special fittings that ensure adjustment of the water temperature before entering the system. Can be mixed as hot water, and cold, which fundamentally determines the specifics of the operation of the two types of mixing.
A simple scheme for turning on a heated floor. 1 - three-way valve; 2 — circulation pump; 3 - ball valve with thermometer; 4 — distribution manifold with flow meters; 5 — return manifold with control valves; 6 - heated floor contour. Temperature adjustment in the circuit is carried out manually and strongly depends on the temperature of the coolant at the inlet.
The first type uses a closed circulation cycle, mixing hot water with a three-way valve as needed. The disadvantage of the system is that if there are malfunctions in the automation or the use of solid fuel boilers, it can be supplied at once a large number of hot water, which negatively affects the polymers, as well as the flooring and microclimate in the room. Therefore, hot water pumping is practiced mainly in systems with copper tubes.
Ready-made mixing unit for heated floors. Temperature adjustment and the degree of mixing of the coolant is performed fully automatically
For polyethylene circuits, more expensive collectors that mix cold water from the return to reduce the incoming temperature. The complexity of such mixing units due to the presence of an additional recirculation pump. Adjustment can be made either by an adjustable two-way valve or by an electronic thermostat that controls the speed of the pump motor. The latter is an example of the struggle for accuracy and reduction of system inertia, which, by the way, is very successful. However, such systems are energy dependent.
Whether to take the collector assembled is a controversial issue. Of course, having a warranty is an obvious plus, but it is not always possible to find a model with the required wiring and number of outlets; in such cases, you will have to assemble the device yourself.
Insulation and accumulating layer
The pie of a water heated floor is as follows: polymer foam insulation, heating tubes and heat-accumulating screed in order from bottom to top. The thickness and materials used of the base layers must be selected in accordance with the operating parameters of the system.
The insulation is selected taking into account the planned heating temperature, or more precisely, the temperature difference between the warm and subfloor. They mainly use EPPS or PPU boards with joining edges. This material is practically incompressible under distributed load, and its heat transfer resistance is one of the highest. The approximate thickness of the polymer insulation is 35 mm for a temperature difference of 30 ºС and then 3 mm for every 5 ºС.
Methods for installing heated floors in a private home. Three options for attaching and distributing pipes are proposed: A - Using special mounting mats for heated floors. B — Installation on a reinforcing mesh in 10cm increments using plastic ties. C - Laying pipes in prepared gutters in insulation using reflective screens. Design of heated floor: 1 — concrete base subfloor; 2 - insulation; 3 - damper tape; 4 - concrete screed; 5 - floor covering; 6 - reinforcing mesh.
In addition to protecting the tubes from damage, the screed regulates the inertia of the heating system and smoothes out the temperature difference between the floor areas directly above the tubes and between them. If the boiler operates in cyclic mode, the heated concrete will give off heat even if there is temporarily no hot water supply. In case of accidental overheating, the heat-intensive screed will ensure the removal of temperature, eliminating damage to the pipes. The average thickness of the screed is 1/10-1/15 of the distance between adjacent tubes. By increasing the thickness, you can get rid of the thermal zebra effect when pipes are laid infrequently. Naturally, the consumption of materials, as well as the inertia and time it takes for the system to reach the operating mode will increase.
When installing heated floors on the ground, it is necessary to pour a 15-20 cm incompressible layer of ASG. For additional thermal insulation, crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay. On insulated frame floors, the heated floor can be laid immediately on top of the waterproofing material that covers the subfloor to prevent laitance from escaping from the screed. In the best case, a thermal cut-off layer of 20-25 mm is installed under the tubes from PPU or EPS. Even such a thin layer is enough to eliminate the cold bridges presented by load-bearing structure floor, and also distribute the load from the screed.
Installation nuances
Installation of a water heated floor should take place according to a pre-designed scheme. The collector requires a place equipped for installation; this can be either a boiler room or a compartment hidden in the wall. The rationality of installing intermediate collectors depends on whether savings are ensured compared to laying pipes from a central distribution node, and also whether such an increase in the length of the largest loop is permissible. It is recommended to supply pipes to heating zones in rooms that do not require targeted floor heating: storerooms, corridors and the like.
Heated floor tubes should only be attached to a special installation system. Perforated tape or mesh provides precise adjustment of the installation pitch, reliable fixation while the mixture hardens and the gaps necessary for temperature control.
The installation system is fixed to the floor through the insulation without significant pressure. You need to fasten it into the holes formed after bending the petals to crimp the tubes. Thus, the attachment points are located closest to the heating elements, which eliminates their floating, displacement or lifting of the entire system when pouring the concrete mixture.
Agree that it is incredibly pleasant to wake up in the morning and stand barefoot on a warm floor. Especially when it was snowing outside the window at that time. You go make yourself a cup of aromatic coffee, sit in front of the window and look at the snow-white landscapes. Do you want too? Then read the article below and find out how to make a heated floor in your private home.
Type of heated floors
If you have already purchased an underfloor heating system, skip this section and move on to the next one. For the rest, the information written here will be useful. There are two main types of heated floors:
- Water;
- Electric
Both have quite their own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell separately on each of them.
From the name you can guess that the floor is heated using water. Indeed, pipes are laid under the flooring through which hot water circulates. It is worth noting that for private homes, this system is a more popular electric analogue. However, let's look at why.
So, the advantages of a water floor over its electric counterpart and a conventional radiator are:
- Comfort. The water floor does not dry out the air at all, and the heat is distributed evenly from floor to ceiling.
- Partial independence from electricity. If there is a sudden power outage, the floor will continue to produce heat for another one to two days. Despite the fact that the water circulation stops and the heating elements are turned off, the liquid takes a very long time to cool down.
- Radiators are dangerous and can cause serious burns. With a heated floor system this is absolutely impossible.
- Freedom of space. All heating components are located under the floor covering. Accordingly, the radiator can be thrown into the trash (or into the closet, if you are too frugal) and free up additional space.
- Compatible with other heaters. Merzlyaks will especially like this item. You can use heated floors in conjunction with other heating methods. It is worth noting that this also applies to electric floors.
An impressive list, isn't it? However, like everything that surrounds us, water-heated floors have their drawbacks, which you should be aware of.
- It was already mentioned above that floors take a long time to cool down. However, there is also the other side of the coin. They also take a long time to heat up. To dial optimal temperature, they will need at least a day. Accordingly, install the system in country house, in which no one lives permanently, there is no point.
- The next drawback is a little off topic. But if the article is read by apartment owners in multi-storey building, the following information will come in handy. So, installing a water floor in such housing is prohibited. This is due to the fact that the level of hydraulic resistance increases.
- Difficult installation compared to electronic analogues. More on this a little later.
- If a hole appears in heating pipe, identify specific place It's unlikely to succeed. Therefore, you will have to disassemble the entire floor covering.
After this, you can draw any conclusions. However final choice worth doing after describing electric floors.
In contrast to the system described above, there are 3 types of electric heated floors:
- Heating cable. Simple system, but requires a screed to be installed on top of it.
- Special mats. The same cable, only on a special grille. It costs more, but there is no need to carry out a complete repair and make a screed.
- Heating film (infrared heating). Installs directly under the floor covering and consumes less electricity. However, in rooms with a large area, such a system is less effective.
Now let's look at the main advantages of such floors:
- Such a heating system does not dry out the air and creates a favorable microclimate even for people with lung disease.
- The room begins to heat up within minutes after switching on.
- Maintaining and changing the temperature is quite easy. There is a special thermostat for this. In the case of water floors, it is also present, however, to change the temperature it will take a much longer period of time than here.
Now the disadvantages, or rather the disadvantage. Yes, there is only one, but for some it is very significant. It consists of increased energy consumption. For 1 sq.m. Approximately 110–150 W are consumed. However, with the help of temperature controllers this figure can be reduced to 70–100 W.
Perhaps that’s all of the real downsides. Of course, it can be noted that many people talk about harmful radiation from heating mats. However, in reality this is not supported by anything.
So, all the pros and cons of each system are revealed. Now you can make a choice, go to the store and read the following sections.
Have you chosen a water floor? Wonderful. However, it is worth remembering that to install it you will need to do concrete screed. Is it possible to do it in wooden house? Absolutely not. However, there is a way out and it will be described a little later.
Installation in a brick and concrete house
First, let's look at classic version installation So, before laying pipes, an additional series of measures should be taken.
- First, the main surface of the floor is leveled and cleared of debris. Next, the coating is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Thick polyethylene, the seams of which are glued with double-sided tape, is suitable for this.
- Probably everyone wants the system to have high heat transfer and be directed only upward, that is, to heat the room. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation is laid on polyethylene (foil side up). For more convenient installation, it is recommended to choose stiffer materials.
- Then damper tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. It will protect the future screed as much as possible from shrinking during drying.
- After this, you can start laying out the pipes. This should be done strictly according to the instructions so that unexpected troubles do not arise in the future.
- Then comes the connection to the distributor. Before pouring screed, the system must be checked for possible problems and holes in the pipes.
- And finally, The final stage. The floor is poured with concrete screed, carefully leveled and left to dry completely.
Installation in a wooden house
In principle, there are few differences. The main thing is that instead of screeds, special modular systems are used on which the pipes are attached. And on top there is a thin protective layer and the floor covering is laid out.
Installation of this system is carried out after the final leveling of the floor base and its thorough cleaning of dust and debris. Everything else is quite similar to the previous version. The base is covered with a layer of heat and waterproofing. Foam plastic 5-10 cm thick with the addition of a heat-reflecting foil layer is ideal for thermal insulation.
After this, heating elements are installed. For each type, the installation features are slightly different; you can see them in the instructions included with the product. Do not forget that it is advisable to install the system only in those parts of the room where there will be no furniture.
Then a reinforced screed is laid out, followed by tile adhesive. Finally, the floor covering is installed. Do not forget that you need to run a thermostat from the cable to the wall. The cable heated floor is filled with cement screed and left for 30 days. Only after a month can you begin operating the system. However, you need to start with low temperatures, gradually raising it. If the film method of floor heating was chosen, we do without a screed. The finishing floor covering is installed directly on the heating elements.
There are several ways to heat the floor and the house as a whole. Which one to choose is up to you. Based on the stated pros and cons of each, you will surely do right choice. And based on the instructions for the product and this article, the floor will be installed correctly and will last for many years.
Video: heated floors - pros and cons
Sometimes it is the only solution to ensure a comfortable and cozy stay in a private home, especially in the northern regions. In autumn-spring and winter periods the base under your feet can cool down quite quickly, and you have to walk in warm socks, otherwise your feet will get very cold. It can also be considered a plus in some way additional heating of the building itself from the inside. In individual residential construction projects, water-heated floors are often installed. Wiring diagrams in a private house they can be very different, but the essence is the same - such a heating system was and remains the most often installed in the house. Let's see what the features of water floors are and how you can make them yourself.
Warm floors are no longer an innovation. For several decades they have been used to create comfort and coziness in the home and are especially popular in private homes where there are no neighbors below, but only a basement or foundation. And, of course, in the cold seasons of the year the floor under your feet will be cool, if not icy (a lot depends on how well the floors themselves were insulated).
Water-based warm floors are often recommended for use in underfloor heating in any private home, although there are also electric ones. The latter are often installed in apartments, since they do not pose a risk of flooding, and are also easier to install - in particular, they do not require the construction of a cement screed. But water floors are, perhaps, perfect option for a private home, especially if it has a heating boiler.
On a note! Water system heating cannot be regarded as the only heating system in the house. It can only act as an additional one together with heating radiators and other heaters. But making life in the house comfortable is precisely her task.
It is easy to understand that, unlike electrical system, in the water type, the role of the heater is played by water, which enters the pipes laid and filled with screed. The coolant is supplied through a special manifold, which is connected to the heating system (central, heating boiler, etc.). Heat comes from the heated water circulating through the pipes to the concrete screed, heats it, and it, in turn, releases heat into the room and warms up the floor covering. Therefore, walking on such a floor will be pleasant.
Attention! Water systems are used, as a rule, in private homes. The apartment rarely has the ability to connect the system to central heating, and there is also a possibility of flooding the neighbors living below if the system breaks down.
Advantages
A water-based heating system has many advantages. These include:
- achieving the desired level of comfort, since the floors will always be warm, and the air in the room will be heated evenly;
- safety, but only in a private house. Such floors will not cause electric shock, and the worst thing that can happen is a leak. But in a private house it is not as critical as in an apartment building. Moreover, even if a leak occurs, at most the owner’s property will suffer, but not the owner himself, since there is a risk of getting burned hot water simply no;
- savings– is also one of the advantages. Water floors will save a lot of natural and financial resources, since the same water will be used as a coolant. You can also warm up the room faster using water floors if the ceiling height is very high;
- compatible with all floor coverings- also a plus. Indeed, it is only in rare cases that certain coatings cannot be laid over the heating system. And then, if everything is done correctly, then any coating can be laid on top of the water system;
- the cost of a water system is low which will save you some money Money during installation.
But such a system also has disadvantages. So, for example, during installation you cannot do without, and this is quite hard work that requires certain skills. Plus, the screed will have to be dried before use, and this will add 28 days to the duration of the repair. And during this period nothing can be done in the room being repaired. Another disadvantage is the difficulty of repairing the system itself if necessary. So it’s important to do everything efficiently from the beginning in order to avoid troubles over a long period of time.
Types of water floors and device features
The main element of such a floor heating system is the pipes through which the coolant, water, circulates. They can be either metal or made of polymer materials. The former are distinguished by their high price and complexity of connections, while the latter are much easier to install and are cheaper. In addition to pipes, other elements of this system will be needed. This is a base in the form of a concrete slab or polystyrene, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, a concrete screed. The finishing coating is placed directly on top of this cake. In general, the thickness of the entire structure will be about 7-15 cm.
Depending on how heated floors are installed, there are several main types of construction.
Table. Types of water floors.
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Heavy | This is the most common option and is highly reliable. Here it is important to carefully prepare the rough surface (subfloor or ceilings), then lay heat- and waterproofing layers, and then a layer of reinforcing mesh, to which the heating circuit itself from pipes will be attached with clamps. After this, all that remains is to fill it with screed, dry it, and the heated floor is ready for use. Heavy water floors are also called concrete or wet floors. The latter is due to the fact that it is necessary to carry out work on filling the screed. It is important to understand that the screed layer above the pipes themselves should not be less than 3 cm. |
| Lungs | In this case, a special polystyrene foam board. It is sold in ready-made version. During installation, it must be laid on the subfloor and routed along it in accordance with the heating floor pipe diagram. They will not require additional fixation, since the plate itself has special protrusions that allow the pipes to be securely fixed. Then special heat-distributing plates are placed on top, on top of which the finishing coating is installed. This is a good option for arranging a water floor when it is impossible to install it according to standard scheme due to the heavy weight of the standard screed. |
There is also another option for arranging a heated floor system - according to wooden slats. That is, wood will be used as the basis for such a floor, to which the pipes are attached, and covered on top with gypsum fiber and a finishing coating. This option is used extremely rarely and is not reliable.
Wiring diagrams
It was already mentioned above that the layout of heated floors can be different. Depending on the design and compliance with the installation rules, the distribution of thermal energy in the room will occur. There are three main pipe layout schemes, but what they all have in common is that pipes must be installed from the walls towards the central part.
Table. Water floor installation diagrams.
| Circuit type | Characteristic |
|---|---|
| In this case, the pipes are laid in a spiral from the wall to the center, and then return to the starting point. Moreover, the structure gradually narrows towards the center of the room. When calculating the circuit and laying it out, you must remember to leave free space between the pipes so that you can “lead” them back to the power source. It is noted that such a scheme will allow achieving the most uniform heating of the floors, and thanks to it, hydraulic resistance can be reduced. The number of pipes is also used less than in other cases. The main disadvantage is difficult installation. |
| In this case, the pipes are laid along the walls with loops in one direction and then in the opposite direction. When looking at such a diagram, you can notice the waviness of the final pattern. It’s easy to lay pipes this way, but due to the frequent steps of pipe laying, it’s unlikely to achieve uniform heating of the floors without temperature surges. |
| In this case, both pipe laying schemes are combined. This option is used if the walls in the room are cold enough. The pipes are laid so that in some places they lie in the form of loops, and in others at right angles. |
Installation features
Before we talk directly about the process of installing a water floor, it is worth talking about some of the features of this process. So, it is important to take into account that in many respects the thermal load of any room will directly depend on what materials the walls are made of, how everything is insulated, how large the window openings are, as well as on a number of other factors. We'll have to try to calculate the heat transfer. If it is more than 100 W/m2, then water floors cannot be used as the main heating system, but only as floor heating directly.
The length of the pipes also cannot be any. It will depend on the size of the room and the installation scheme. Perhaps in one big room you will have to lay two or even more circuits. This applies primarily to rooms larger than 30 m2. And each circuit will heat up independently of the other, although all circuits can be connected to the same manifold. However, the diameter of the pipes, the laying pitch between them and the length must be the same if the mains are connected to the same system. And the length and pitch of the circuit, in turn, depend on the diameter of the pipes. The larger it is, the longer the contour can be.
Advice! If the room has built-in furniture, then the floor area under it does not need to be taken into account when calculating. There will still be no use for a warm floor there, and there is no need to lay pipes there.
You need to make a small indentation from each wall (about 10-15 cm from the outside and up to 30 cm for interior walls). The pitch between the pipes can vary between 20-30 cm if they are used as an additional option for heating the room.
A water floor is an ideal heating option for large rooms with an area of more than 20 m2. But in a small room it is better to choose some other option, since laying water lines will be very inconvenient. It is also worth choosing a heavy version of the heated floor if possible, that is, installing it using a concrete screed. This is the most reliable, although the longest, option, but it is ideal for a private home. By the way, the screed itself very well protects the circuit pipes from the risk of damage and itself is capable of retaining heat for a long time, which means it will help save money.
One of the options for heating a private home is to install heated floors. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living spaces from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The design of a heated floor cannot be called complex, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a heated floor in a private house with your own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages
Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out due to pipes located under the floor covering, through which heated coolant circulates, or through electric heating elements.
As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the home.
Among the positive qualities of a heated floor, the following stand out most clearly:
- High level of comfort. A floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot without fear of any discomfort.
- Economical. Savings when using heated floors are achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from bottom to top and heats only the volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. extra expenses are missing.
- Ability to adjust temperature conditions. It is strongly recommended to equip a heated floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within user-specified limits.
- Easy to install. Installing heated floors is a fairly simple task, especially if we're talking about about the electrical version of the system. The water circuit is more difficult to lay out, but even if desired, it is quite possible to install it yourself.
There are also disadvantages:
- High cost. To install a heated floor, you will need a lot of materials, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce costs - to do all the heating installation yourself.
- Reducing the volume of the room. The thickness of a heated floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then this will not cause any special problems (unless you have to redo the thresholds).
- Demands on flooring. You can cover a heated floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed for use in combination with heated floors. An unsuitable coating will not allow the system to operate effectively, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their failure as a result of overheating.
The advantages of heated floors are significant, and the disadvantages are not critical, so such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.
Preparation of the base for all types and options of heated floors
One of essential elements is the basis for a heated floor in a private house, which must be prepared even before installing the heating system itself. There are a number of requirements for the base - it must be strong enough, even and not allow heat to pass through. Each requirement is important, but special attention It is thermal insulation that is required - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various pipe insulations are used, which must be selected for specific conditions.
The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following steps:
- Dismantling. The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports. All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
- Marking. Using a building level along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be leveled. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient to effectively retain heat.
- Bedding. The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The sand cushion must be compacted after backfilling.
- Waterproofing. A waterproofing material is laid on the compacted sand layer (polyethylene is the cheapest, but a waterproofing membrane is a more reliable option).
- Arrangement of beacons. Now you need to install the supports on which the beacon profiles will be located. The beacons need to be very accurately leveled.
- Laying thermal insulation. All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
- Filling the screed. Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can begin pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
- Alignment. When the screed has set a little, the beacons need to be removed and the resulting holes must be sealed. The seams are rubbed down, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely hardened.
In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:
- Polystyrene boards, which are usually reinforced with reinforcing mesh and attached to the base with anchors to increase strength;
- Rolled foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
- Polymer mats designed specifically for laying water-heated floors, for which purpose the material has special protrusions between which pipes are laid.
Do-it-yourself water heated floor installation
Exist different variants heated floors in a private house, but the most popular type are water ones. Structurally, such heating is a pipeline system laid under the floor covering through which hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system or directly to a heat source.
Water heated floor includes the following elements:
- Pipes. For arranging heated floors, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. Both materials have good thermal conductivity and a low coefficient of thermal expansion.
- Collector. This element is necessary for the formation of proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate terminals. Inexpensive manifolds only have shut-off valves. Ball Valves, while good devices are equipped with a valve that allows you to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
- Circulation pump. The pump ensures normal coolant circulation in warm floors. If the heating equipment has a built-in circulation pump, then there is no need for a separate device.
- Damper tape. This tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from foamed polymers.
- Fasteners. If installation is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of pipe fastenings. In all other cases, special brackets equipped with locks and anchors will be required.
Laying pipes in a private house
In order for a water heated floor to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. There is no point in saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor areas, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.
The total length of pipes for one room is calculated using the following formula:
- D = S / M * k, where
- D – total length of pipes,
- S – room area,
- M – laying step,
- k – safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.
Usually for 1 sq.m. The room area requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.
An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:
- "Snake". A good option for small spaces. Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes remains virtually unchanged throughout the entire circuit.
- "Snail" and "double snake". These layout options are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Thanks to the close location of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
- Circuit including several circuits. For complete and efficient heating of large rooms, it is most advisable to equip several separate circuits that will provide good heat transfer and will be quite reliable.
Installation of water heated floor
Water heated floors in a private house are installed using the following technology:
- Collector installation. The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
- Installation of damper tape. The tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where the heating circuit will be located. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
- Reinforcement. You need to lay it on a layer of thermal insulation reinforcing mesh, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
- Pipe installation. The water circuit pipes unwind, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the selected scheme and fixed using brackets or clamps.
- Connection to the collector. All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with coolant. The water circuit must be left in working condition for two days to check for leaks.
- Filling the screed. A regular one is poured on top of the water-filled system. cement strainer, which must be left until completely hardened (usually this takes about a month). When the solution has completely dried, it will be possible to start the heating in operating mode. Starting the system prematurely is likely to damage the concrete layer.
Design and types of electric heated floors
If it is necessary to lay heated floors in a separate room, then electric will be more relevant. heating system. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.
There are the following types of electric heated floors:
- Film. Most popular look heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon plates fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
- Cable. This type of heater is based on a cable with high resistance, due to which, when current passes, the product generates thermal energy. The laying step of cable heaters can be varied, thereby influencing the intensity of heating of the room.
- Rod. Main structural element are carbon rods connected by wires into a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type of electric heaters. Read also: "How to make an electric heated floor with your own hands - types of heated floors, installation rules."
Installation of film heated floors
Film heated floors are the most common system, which is largely due to the ease of installation.
An electric heated floor in a private house is installed from scratch using the following technology:
- Laying reflective material. It is strongly recommended to lay heat-reflecting foil material under the heated film floor, which will prevent heat from passing into the underground space.
- Open the films. It is advisable to cut the film as small as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. The film can be cut only along the cut lines drawn on it - this avoids damage to the internal elements of the material.
- Film laying. The prepared heating elements are laid out on the base and leveled. You can secure the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to secure the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
- Connecting strips. In areas where the conductive path is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
- Contact insulation. Each contact and area where the strips were cut must be carefully insulated. A good option insulation are butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the heated floor elements. With such plates the contacts are simply crimped.
- Connecting the thermostat. The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, following the instructions on its body or in the instructions. The system must be turned on and make sure that all bands are working.
- Installation flooring . If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.
Conclusion
It is very easy to install a heated floor - all types of heated floors in a private house can be easily assembled with your own hands. The finished system will ensure complete heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.
Warm floors are an ideal way to heat a private home. It is much more practical, environmentally friendly and economical than a standard radiator system, but it requires more effort during installation. A warm floor creates ideal convection in the house - heated air from the entire surface of the floor rises up, without being drained by radiators and without heating the walls and ceiling. And also walk around warm surface very comfortable and pleasant - you will never freeze, and your baby can safely play on the floor even in the harshest winter!
Warm floors in a private house can be of two types:
- electric;
- water.
As a rule, electric heated floors are rarely used in cottages due to their disadvantages: high power consumption, small heated area, and a high probability of failure. Typically, such a system is used in apartments or small rooms: restroom, bathroom, hallway. The advantage of an electric floor is that it is very easy to install - just spread the sheets on a flat surface, lay linoleum or laminate on top, connect and use.
Warm floors in a private house are the best solution!
A water heated floor is much more difficult to install - it requires the creation high-quality insulation, filling the screed and connecting the collector. At the same time, it is designed for long-term operation (if properly installed, the system lasts more than 30 years), has low inertia (a well-heated floor retains heat well and does not require constant supply of new portions of hot water).
Note: It is advisable to install warm floors in rooms whose area is more than 15 square meters. In this case, there is no need to lay out the pipes over the entire base - subtract the area of furniture and decorative elements.
Water floor
Using this system, you can eliminate pipes and radiators along the walls and under the ceiling. A water heated floor is the only way to install “French windows” (from the floor). You can also save a lot of money by using them. The fact is that one circuit is allocated for each room - if you do not use any rooms, you can turn them off altogether or set the minimum value for warm water flow.
Methods for constructing a water system
There are three ways to install the system:
- on the ground;
- on a concrete slab (base);
- on a wooden floor.
Laying on a wooden floor is used less often. Usually they tear it down, pour a screed underneath it and then create a system. But there are also less expensive options, when the insulation and pipes are located directly along finished floor, and the top is filled with self-leveling mixtures or screed. The main disadvantage of this solution is a significant thickening of the flooring and a reduction in the useful volume of the floor.
Laying pipes in special shapes on a wooden floor
Most often, the installation of heated floors in a private house occurs on the ground. Removed first upper layer, then a cushion of clean sand (up to 10 centimeters) is poured onto it, compacted with crushed stone (7-10 cm of fine fraction), and a waterproofing material (roofing material or a special membrane) is spread. A rough screed is installed on top, on which insulation and pipes are placed.
If there is concrete plates or the screed is flooded, the process is greatly facilitated - you just have to level the base and seal all large cracks with a sand-cement mixture.
Creation principle
After you have prepared the base, you need to:
- Create high-quality waterproofing of the screed. Roll out roofing material or other insulating materials. Be sure to overlap the roll by at least 10 centimeters and glue them together (resin, tape, special glue for membranes, high temperature).
- Create a thermal insulation layer. It is needed so that the cold from below does not penetrate into the room, and the heat from the pipes does not escape to depth. High-density foam or extruded polystyrene foam is usually used as insulation. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on many factors: the location of the house, the power of the system, the thermal insulation coefficient, etc. Usually they try to make this layer at least 5 centimeters thick.
- Make a high-quality vapor barrier. It is necessary to prevent condensation from forming on top of the insulation. For this, either ordinary polyethylene film or a special membrane is used. It is also necessary to lay these materials overlapping each other and insulating the seams.
- Create a reinforcement mesh. Typically, a road mesh with cells measuring 100 by 100 mm or 150 by 150 mm is used for this.
- Lay the pipes. Typically, classic ones are used to create a heated floor. metal-plastic pipes. It is necessary to lay them on the surface so that there are no joints in the future screed. The length of the pipe should not exceed 75-80 meters (with a longer length, the coolant has time to cool down and the floor warms up unevenly). If you are missing a piece of 870 meters, then create two branches. Pipes can be secured to fittings with clamps.
- Fill the pipes with screed or self-leveling mixtures. Wait until it dries completely - and your system will be completely ready!
Filling pipes with cement-sand screed
Note: you can fill the screed only after you have filled the system with water and created a operating pressure. If there are no drips anywhere, do not drain the water or release the pressure until the screed hardens. This will prevent the pipe from deforming.
The last stage of installing a water heated floor in a private house is laying the finishing coating. It can be linoleum, laminate, parquet boards, carpet, ceramic tile etc.
Small tricks
- Don't forget to use damper tape - it will allow this “multi-layer cake” to expand and contract freely due to temperature expansion. It is glued along the entire perimeter of the room at the stage of arranging the first screed
- The pipes brought out are connected to the collector (comb). Don't skimp on it, because it is the comb that controls your entire system. Using the valves on it, you can adjust the flow (temperature) of water passing through the branch.
- The thickness of the final screed should not be more than 60 mm. Add a special plasticizer for heated floors to it - it will give it elasticity, strength and resistance to temperature changes.
- The top of the screed can be covered with plastic film. This will protect the surface from drying out. If there is no film, then regularly moisten the surface with water (at least once a day).
- You can start the system no earlier than in 4-5 days (during this time cement-sand mixture will harden). It is not recommended to overheat the floor to prevent cracks from appearing on it.
The manifold is the junction of all pipes
Collector balancing
Warm floors in a private house rarely have equal contour lengths in different rooms. To equalize water pressure, collectors (combs) are used, which allow you to adjust the temperature in different branches. To adjust temperature regime you need to remove the protective caps and use the valves to equalize the pressure of the flow. If necessary, you can completely block some circuits if you are not using the premises.