The air compressed by a compressor often contains particles of moisture or oil that are undesirable to enter the system. To remove impurities from compressed air, a dehumidifier is installed for the compressor. In some cases, without this element, performing work using pneumatic tools becomes impossible.
For organization proper operation A very important indicator of a pneumatic tool is the cleanliness of the compressed air supplied to it. First of all, it must be cleaned of dust. Used to remove mechanical contaminants air filter, installed at the entrance to the unit. It is also necessary to remove moisture from the air masses, which, when compressed, condenses in the receiver and in the system itself. An air dryer is installed at the compressor outlet to remove moisture.. In addition to moisture, compressed air can have oil particles, which inevitably fall into it.
On a note! Mixing oil with air during its compression is typical for air piston and rotary (screw) compressors, since the operation of these units requires the presence of lubrication.
If the air is not cleared of moisture, the following happens:
- When moisture is mixed with oil, an emulsion is formed that can clog the pneumatic channels;
- at low temperatures moisture in the pneumatic channels freezes, which can cause blockage or damage;
- Rust accumulates in the air ducts, which over time can completely cut off the air supply;
- if moisture gets into the pneumatic tool, it parts begin to rust and quickly fail;
- the resulting air-oil mixture in its composition cannot meet the requirements for its use in the food, electronics, pharmaceutical and chemical industries;
- in the presence of moisture high-quality painting becomes impossible, for example, cars, since the paint will not lie tightly, with the formation of bubbles, which will cause it to peel off.
Design and principle of operation of the part
Design of a standard moisture separator vortex type for pneumatic systems is shown in the figure below.
This node consists of the following elements.
- Frame. It is attached to the pneumatic line and is the basis for the entire water separator.
- Cup. Forms an internal cavity in which the deflector (3), filter (4), damper (5), plug (7) and impeller (8) are located.
Working principle of the moisture separator simple enough. After compressed air enters the housing (1), it moves towards the impeller (8). Once on the impeller, which has guide blades, the air swirls. Under the influence of centrifugal force, all particles in the air move to the walls of the glass (2), where they condense and roll down. To separate the quiet zone in which contaminants are located (6), a damper (5) is provided. Next, the air flow enters the deflector (3) with installed filter(4), which traps small solid particles of contaminants. Accumulated contaminants are removed through a stopper (7) installed at the bottom of the glass.
Types of air purification systems
To clean compressed air, both for industrial and domestic purposes, several types of moisture separators are used: vortex, moisture-oil separators, adsorption and modular cleaning systems.
Vortex filters
A vortex-type moisture-oil separator has a cylindrical shape (the device was discussed above) and purifies the air by swirling it in a chamber (glass). The vortex oil separator is the most common device for cleaning compressed air from moisture and lubricant particles.
Adsorption moisture-oil separators
To remove oil and moisture from compressed air, substances with active absorbing properties are used, for example, silica gel, aluminum gel, calcium chloride etc. The following figure shows an adsorption type oil/moisture separator.
Modular cleaning systems
The best results in removing condensate, oil particles and dust from the air are provided by a modular cleaning system. It consists of several elements: a cyclone (vortex) separator, a fine filter and a carbon filter. The following figure shows a modular type oil water separator.
Important! Modular systems At the last level of purification, they ensure almost one hundred percent purity of technical air, which is supplied to blow guns, pneumatic tools, spray guns and respirators (without a carbon filter).
How to make a dehumidifier with your own hands
Since the design of the dehumidifier does not include high-tech elements, it is quite possible to make an air dryer for compressors with your own hands from scrap materials.
Cyclone (vortex) water separator
A cyclone-type moisture separator can be made from a liquefied gas cylinder, an unnecessary fire extinguisher or cuttings metal pipe suitable diameter. The length of the pipe can be arbitrary.
The device is made in the following order.
Advice! For proper operation of the device, it must be installed vertically.
Homemade adsorption dehumidifier
You can easily make a homemade dehumidifier using a water filter and silica gel cat litter.
You will also need a small tube made of metal or plastic and a glue gun.
The condensate air purification filter is made as follows.
Now you can connect a hose from the compressor to the inlet fitting of the moisture separator, and a hose leading to some pneumatic tool, for example, a spray gun, to the outlet.
Dryer for Airpol OP compressor - these dryers are in demand among manufacturers of PET containers. The reason lies in the use of Airpol ADP boosters on automatic and semi-automatic PET bottle blowing machines. That is, having chosen an Airpol booster compressor, the consumer usually buys the rest of the set of compressor equipment of this brand, including dryers for compressors.
The Airpol OP compressor dehumidifier is simple and reliable, and this is the key to trouble-free and long-term operation of your compressor equipment.
| Model dehumidifier | Prod., m 3 /min | Attached- languishing, inch | Installation Lenya power, kW | Dimensions m | Weight, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Airpol OP 05 | 0,60 | G3/4 | 0,17 | 0.4x0.5x0.5 | 20,0 |
| Airpol OP 10 | 0,90 | G3/4 | 0,19 | 0.4x0.5x0.5 | 21,0 |
| Airpol OP 20 | 1,20 | G3/4 | 0,23 | 0.4x0.5x0.5 | 26,0 |
| Airpol OP 30 | 1,80 | G3/4 | 0,30 | 0.4x0.5x0.5 | 28,0 |
| Airpol OP 40 | 2,40 | G1 | 0,62 | 0.4x0.5x0.8 | 45,0 |
| Airpol OP 50 | 3,0 | G1 | 0,68 | 0.4x0.5x0.8 | 47,0 |
| Airpol OP 60 | 3,60 | G1 1/4 | 0,80 | 0.5x0.6x0.8 | 54,0 |
| Airpol OP 65 | 4,10 | G1 1/4 | 0,88 | 0.5x0.6x0.8 | 61,0 |
| Airpol OP 70 | 5,20 | G1 1/4 | 1,13 | 0.5x0.6x0.8 | 66,0 |
| Airpol OP 80 | 6,50 | G1 1/4 | 1,20 | 0.6x0.6x0.9 | 81,0 |
| Airpol OP 90 | 7,70 | G1 1/4 | 1,45 | 0.6x0.6x0.9 | 85,0 |
| Airpol OP 100 | 9,90 | G2 1/2 | 1,88 | 0.8x1.0x1.0 | 161,0 |
| Airpol OP 110 | 12,0 | G2 1/2 | 1,95 | 0.8x1.0x1.0 | 166,0 |
| Airpol OP 120 | 13,9 | G2 1/2 | 2,35 | 0.8x1.0x1.0 | 171,0 |
| Airpol OP 130 | 20,0 | G3 | 3,80 | 1.0x1.3x1.3 | 304,0 |
| Airpol OP 140 | 24,0 | G3 | 4,30 | 1.0x1.3x1.3 | 306,0 |
| Airpol OP 150 | 30,0 | G 3 | 5,30 | 1.0x1.3x1.3 | 346,0 |
| Airpol OP 160 | 35,0 | G 3 | 5,90 | 1.0x1.3x1.3 | 349,0 |
The operating conditions of the compressor dryer must meet the following requirements:
- min. temperature: + 5°C (required),
- Max. temperature: +43°C (required),
- Max. inlet air temperature: +55°C,
- min. inlet air temperature: +10°C,
- Max. operating pressure OP 40 - OP 90: 13 bar.
- Max. operating pressure OP 100 - OP 130: 16 bar
- Max. operating pressure OP 140 - OP 160: 14.5 bar
The amount of heat generated by the dehumidifier during operation is approximately 11 W for every m3 of air pumped per hour.
Airpol compressor dryer maintenance instructions
1.1. general information
The dehumidifier for the Airpol OP compressor is referred to as a dehumidifier in the following text. The manufacturer and seller do not bear any responsibility in case of failure to comply with safety rules for maintenance, transportation, operation, Maintenance and repairs, also if this has not been described in detail in of this Instruction. Reliable operation and service life of the compressor dryer depend on proper maintenance and inspection schedules in accordance with this Service Manual.
1.2. Compressor Dryer Safety Guidelines
Safety notices that, if not followed, could result in injury to workers or damage to equipment are indicated by the following symbols (the illustrations below show the danger areas of the compressor dryer):
Fig.1 Designation of dangerous zones of the dryer for the compressor
Except general rules Occupational safety and health regulations and the provisions of the Technical Supervision Act regarding compressor dryers, their components and equipment, the following safety instructions must also be observed.
The compressor dryer may only be serviced by suitably qualified personnel. Improper servicing by unauthorized persons and/or modifications not approved by the manufacturer will release the manufacturer from liability for damage resulting from the above actions. Operating personnel are required to comply with safety regulations. The user is responsible for maintaining the compressor dryer in a state of operational reliability at all times. Compressor parts and dryers that are not suitable for safe operation should be replaced immediately. Installation, connection, operation, maintenance and repairs of compressor dryers must only be carried out by suitably qualified personnel.
The manufacturer is not responsible, now or in the future, for any injury, damage to objects or to the compressor dryer itself caused by user negligence or failure to comply with the installation, operation and maintenance instructions contained in this manual. The manufacturer is also not responsible for non-compliance with the mandatory safety regulations regarding the dryer for the compressor and operating personnel.
Before removing the housing for maintenance work, be sure to turn off the power and reduce the pressure inside the compressor dryer. Any intervention on electrical equipment must only be carried out by qualified electricians.
Dehumidifiers for compressors of this series can be installed outdoors.
Fig.2 Elements to improve the safety of a compressor dryer
The compressor dryer is equipped with the following elements to increase operational safety:
- cooling fan shield (Fig. 2 item 1),
- shield (Fig. 2, item 2),
- grounding (Fig. 2, item 3).
1.3. Disposal of compressor dryer
The compressor dryer is designed for continuous operation. The longevity of the main components of a compressor dryer depends on their maintenance. When disposing of compressor dryer, consideration should be given to the oil and refrigerant contained in the hermetic cooling system. Before dismantling, these working fluids must be removed and handed over to a specialized recycling facility.
2. Installation of compressor dryer
2.1. Transportation
The compressor dryer should be transported in its normal operating position.
2.2. Requirements regarding the installation location of the compressor dryer
The correct choice of room affects the operating conditions of the compressor dryer. The room should be spacious, dry, well ventilated and free from contamination. The floor must be level and suitable for industrial premises; The total weight of the compressor dryer is shown in the table. The total weight of the compressor dryer should always be taken into account.
2.3. Compressor dryer installation
After preparing the room and unpacking the compressor dryer, install it in its intended location and check the following points:
- make sure that there is enough space around the compressor dryer (Fig. 3),
- make sure that the entire device is clearly visible to the operator located at the control panel and is protected from interference by unauthorized persons.
Fig.3 Differential dryer fuse for compressor
Attention: Differential fuse Fig. 3. item 1 is not supplied with the compressor dryer and is not a piece of equipment.
2.4. Compressed air connection
The connection of the compressor dryer to the compressed air equipment must be made in accordance with the markings on its body (Fig. 4).
Fig.4 Connection of dryer for compressor
Before installing a compressor dryer, you should check the air ducts connected to it. They must be free from contamination (rust, welding spatter). A pre-filter must be installed in front of the compressor dryer.
A manual shut-off valve should also be installed between the compressor dryer and the compressed air network. This will make it possible to turn off the compressor dryer while it is running. service.
The condensate drain is routed to the outside of the compressor dryer and the condensate can be drained away using a transparent hose. Condensate cannot be discharged directly into sewer network; it must be disposed of in accordance with applicable waste disposal regulations.
2.5. Connecting the compressor dryer to the electrical network
Before connecting to electrical equipment you should:
- check whether the mains voltage corresponds to the value indicated on the dryer panel,
- check the condition of the power wires and the grounding condition,
- make sure there is a differential fuse that protects against excessive voltage, set to 30 mA (Fig. 3, item 1).
The compressor dryer must only be connected to the electrical network by qualified electricians. Before opening the electrical box, turn off the power. Obligatory safety standards and regulations must be strictly observed. The electrical circuit diagram is located inside the electrical box of the compressor dryer.
3 Description of compressor dryer
3.1. Manufacturer information
The manufacturer of this compressor dryer is Airpol.
3.2. Purpose of a compressor dryer
The compressor dryer is designed for drying compressed air in industrial plants. Dryers for compressors of this series must not be installed in an explosive environment. hazardous areas ah, and also in places where the air contains hazardous substances such as vapors from solvents, alcohols and other flammable substances.
It is prohibited to use these compressor dryers to prepare air that has direct contact with food products. This application is possible with the installation of a series of suitably selected compressed air filters. If you have any additional questions, please contact our service department.
Compressor dryers may only be used in accordance with their intended purpose. All other uses will be considered incorrect and not in accordance with safety regulations. The manufacturer is not responsible for damage resulting from incorrect or non-intended use.
3.3. Technical data of compressor dryer
| Type | Air flow, m3/h |
R 404a, kg |
Refrigeration compressor power, W |
Fan power, W |
Rated power W |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Airpol OP40 | 141 | 0,40 | 544 | 65 | 609 |
| Airpol OP50 | 180 | 0,40 | 608 | 65 | 673 |
| Airpol OP60 | 216 | 0,65 | 711 | 82 | 793 |
| Airpol OP70 | 312 | 0,65 | 996 | 126 | 1122 |
| Airpol OP80 | 390 | 1,35 | 1040 | 150 | 1190 |
| Airpol OP90 | 462 | 1,35 | 1296 | 150 | 1446 |
| Airpol OP100 | 594 | 1,90 | 1727 | 140 | 1867 |
| Airpol OP110 | 720 | 2,10 | 1800 | 140 | 1940 |
| Airpol OP120 | 853 | 2,00 | 2200 | 140 | 2340 |
| Airpol OP130 | 1200 | 3,50 | 3000 | 790 | 3790 |
| Airpol OP140 | 1440 | 3,30 | 3500 | 790 | 4290 |
| Airpol OP150 | 1800 | 5,00 | 4500 | 790 | 5290 |
| Airpol OP160 | 2100 | 4,80 | 5100 | 790 | 5890 |
Rated operating conditions of the compressor dryer:
- temperature environment+25°C,
- inlet air temperature +35°C,
- working pressure 7 bar,
- pressure dew point +3°C.
Acceptable operating conditions for the compressor dryer:
- maximum ambient temperature +45°C,
- minimum ambient temperature +5°C,
- maximum air inlet temperature +55°C,
- maximum operating pressure OP 40 – OP 90: 13 bar,
- maximum operating pressure OP 100 – OP 130: 16 bar.
- maximum operating pressure OP 140 – OP 160: 14.5 bar.
The valve (Fig. 5) is installed at the factory and does not require adjustment. The dew point value cannot be changed. Changing the valve setting will void your warranty rights.
Fig.5 Hot gas dryer valve for compressor
- cork
- adjusting screw
The following information signs are located on the compressor dryer:
- designation of pictograms (Fig. 6. item 1),
- compressed air inlet (Fig. 6. item 2),
- compressed air outlet (Fig. 7. item 3),
- shield (Fig. 7. item 4).
The signs are a safety feature and cannot be removed or damaged.
Fig. 6 Compressor dryer information signs
Fig.7 Dryer device for compressor
Dryer structure: 1 – refrigeration compressor, 2 – condenser, 3 – fan motor, 4 – evaporator, 5 – condensate separator, 6 – hot gas valve, 7 – refrigerant filter, 8 – capillary, 9 – safety valve pressure.
Fig. 8 Diagram of a dryer for a compressor
Dryer design diagram: 1A – air inlet, 2A – air outlet, 3A – condensate drain, 1 – refrigeration compressor, 2 – condenser, 3 – fan motor, 4 – evaporator, 5 – condensate separator, 6 – contaminant accumulator, 7 – capillary , 8 – refrigerant filter, 9 – hot gas bypass, 10 – air-to-air heat exchanger, 11 – dew point thermometer, 12 – fan switch, 13 – condensate drain valve.
The compressor (1) compresses the refrigerant (gas), which enters the condenser (2), where it is condensed. If necessary, the fan (3) is started to increase the efficiency of the refrigerant. The condensate passes through the dewatering filter (8), after which it expands in the expansion valve located in the capillary (7). After this, it enters the evaporator (4), where the cooling process occurs. The refrigerant expanded in the evaporator is sucked in and compressed again by the compressor. The system is equipped with a refrigerant bypass. This allows the amount of refrigerant in the system to be adjusted to the actual volume of compressed air passing through the this moment through the compressor dryer.
This happens by introducing hot gas through the control valve (9). Valve supports constant pressure refrigerant in the evaporator, so that the dew point never falls below 0°C, which prevents the refrigerant in the evaporator from freezing.
The compressor dryer operates in an automatic cycle. By default the dew point is set to +3°C.
3.7. Compressed air movement
The supplied compressed air in a saturated state enters the evaporator (4) (for compressor dryers from OP40 to OP80 in the main heat exchanger (10)), where it is cooled below the dew point temperature, after which it enters the condensate separator (5). The separator separates condensate from air. The cooled air is returned through the exhaust pipe to the equipment. The condensate is discharged outside through the condensate drain valve (13), equipped with a time relay.
3.8. Example of compressed air equipment - installing a dryer for the compressor behind the air collector
Fig. 9 Placement of the compressor dryer behind the air collector
Compressed air equipment with a compressor dryer installed behind the compressed air receiver; 3 – filters: coarse and fine, 4 – bypass and shut-off valves.
3.9. Example of compressed air equipment - installing a compressor dryer in front of the air collector
Fig. 10 Placement of the compressor dryer in front of the air collector
Compressed air equipment with a compressor dryer installed in front of the compressed air receiver; 3 – filters: coarse and fine, 4 – bypass and shut-off valves.
Bypass and shut-off valves (Fig. 9, 10. item 4) make it possible to service filters without interrupting the flow of compressed air. Before replacing filter elements, you should always check that the relevant valves are properly closed. The equipment shown in Fig. 9 is recommended in case of continuous operation of the compressor and continuous intake of compressed air. In this situation, constant loading of the dehumidifier is ensured.
The equipment shown in Fig. 10 is recommended when the air intake differs over time, and the one-time demand is significantly higher or significantly lower than the rated compressor capacity. The tank must be large enough to provide required amount dried air.
4. Compressor dryer operation
Before starting the compressor dryer, check:
- correct connections in the compressed air network: remember to remove all packaging elements,
- correct connection to the network,
- condensate drain system,
- correct connection to the electrical network,
- familiarize yourself with the control panel.
Fig. 11 First start of the compressor dryer
Control panel: 1 – Dew point temperature indicator, 2 – STOP OPERATION button.
Wait at least 6 hours after transport before turning on the compressor dryer.
4.2. Starting the compressor dryer
The compressor dryer is turned on using the STOP OPERATION button on the control panel (Fig. 11, item 2). After about 5 minutes the dehumidifier can be loaded, including the compressor. Only in this case condensation will not appear in the compressed air network. The dehumidifier must operate during the entire operating time of the compressors.
After turning off the compressor dryer, wait at least 5 minutes before restarting it to equalize the pressure in the cooling system.
5. Compressor dryer maintenance
The instructions for periodic maintenance when installing and starting up the compressor dryer must be strictly followed. Failure to follow instructions will result in loss of warranty rights. Before carrying out maintenance or repair work, the compressor dryer must be stopped completely and disconnected from the compressed air supply and the electrical network.
5.1. Periodic Inspection Schedule for Compressor Dryer
The specified periodic inspection periods are based on compressor dryers operating in optimal conditions working environment(rooms free from dust, well ventilated). In other cases, inspections should be done twice as often.
Weekly:
Draining condensate: Clean the dirt trap filter.
Monthly:
Condenser: Clean the cooling fins from dust.
5.1.1. Automatic condensate drain
Before carrying out any maintenance or repair work, the compressor dryer must be stopped and disconnected from the compressed air supply.
Cleaning the automatic condensate drain filter - procedure:
- close the valve (Fig. 12. item 1),
- reduce the pressure in the dryer by pressing the "TEST" button on the condensate drain time relay (Fig. 12. item 2),
- turn off the dryer by pressing the STOP button (Fig. 12, item 3),
- remove the plug (Fig. 12. item 6),
- remove the filter (Fig. 12. item 7),
- clean the filter by blowing a stream of compressed air from the middle outwards,
- install the filter and insert the plug,
- close the walls.
Fig. 12 Automatic drainage of condensate at the compressor dryer
5.1.2. Capacitor
Cleaning the condenser - procedure:
- turn off the compressor dryer by pressing the STOP button (Fig. 12, item 3),
- turn off the power button (Fig. 12. item 4),
- remove the walls of the dryer (Fig. 12, item 5),
- clean by blowing compressed air through the condenser fins. Do not use water or other solvents.
- close the walls.
5.2. Long breaks in work – a decrease in pressure.
If the compressor dryer will not be used for a long period of time, you should:
- close the valve
- reduce pressure,
- turn off the dehumidifier,
- turn off the power button.
In case of long interruptions in operation, the compressor dryer must be protected from negative influences. atmospheric factors, dust and moisture. Before restarting the compressor dryer after long downtime please contact PPS Airpol service.
6. Compressor dryer diagnostic table
Actions indicated by the # symbol must be performed by an authorized service.
1) Sign: No compressed air comes out of the compressor dryer.
1) Possible reason: Pipes inside the compressor dryer are frozen. The hot gas bypass is damaged or misregulated. The room temperature is too low and the evaporator tubes are frozen.
1) Remedy:# check the hot gas valve. Check the room temperature.
2) Sign: Condensation has appeared in the compressed air network.
2) Possible reason:
2A) The condenser separator is not working properly.
2B) The dryer is not correctly selected for the needs of the compressed air line.
2C) The compressor dryer operates in bad conditions condensation formation.
2) Remedy:
Clean the filter before solenoid valve, # check the outlet valve, # check the release time relay.
Check the amount of air passing through the compressor dryer. Check the room temperature. Check the air temperature entering the compressor dryer. Clean the condenser.
# Check the operation and installation of the pressure switch.
# Check fan operation.
3) Sign: The cooling compressor head is too hot (> 55°C).
3) Possible reason:
3A) There is no refrigerant in the cooling network.
3) Remedy:
# Check for refrigerant leaks.
# Replenish if necessary.
4) Sign: The motor shuts down when overloaded.
4) Possible reason:
5) Sign: The engine hums but does not turn on.
5) Possible reason:
5A) The mains voltage is too low. The compressor dryer is turned off and turned on after too short a period of time to equalize the pressure inside the unit.
5B) The engine switch is damaged.
5) Remedy:
Contact your electricity supplier.
Wait a few minutes before turning the dehumidifier back on.
# Check capacitor relay (if installed).
6) Sign: The dehumidifier stops but does not start automatically after a few minutes.
6) Possible reason:
6A) The temperature switch in the manual control position has disconnected the motor power supply See 2B – 2C – 3A.
6B) Engine damage.
7) Sign: The refrigeration compressor is too loud.
7) Possible reason: Internal parts or valves are damaged.
Do you constantly drain condensate from the pneumatic line?! Installing a compressor dryer is correct solution! But before you buy the model you like, consult with us, since the dryer for the compressor is selected not just according to the declared performance, but taking into account certain correction factors for pressure, temperature and compressed air consumption. An incorrect calculation will result in either freezing of the pneumatic line, or the dew point will be higher than +3°C.
We sell industrial dryers for compressors in Tyumen, Novokuznetsk, Irkutsk, Zelenogorsk, Ulan-Ude, Ishim, Magnitogorsk, Khanty-Mansiysk, Yakutsk, Yekaterinburg, Nakhodka, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Biysk, Blagoveshchensk, Surgut, Salekhard, Rubtsovsk, Leninsk- Kuznetsk, Lesosibirsk, Ust-Ilimsk, Belovo, Gorno-Altaisk, Kurgan, Achinsk, Norilsk, Nefteyugansk, Abakan, Chita, Tobolsk, Anzhero-Sudzhensk, Vladivostok, Komsomolsk-on-Amur, Khabarovsk, Ussuriysk, Krasnoyarsk, Bratsk, Kemerovo, Angarsk, Nizhnevartovsk, Tomsk, Omsk, Prokopyevsk, Novy Urengoy, Chelyabinsk, Zheleznogorsk, Kogalym, Kiselevsk, Barnaul, Vorkuta, Solikamsk, Kansk, Nizhny Tagil, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.
Air receiver 40 atm. On our website you can familiarize yourself with the current rules for the safe operation of air receivers and pressure vessels.
The KamAZ air dryer is a device that removes excess oil liquid and moisture from the surface of the compressor.
Drying device air flow includes elements such as:
- control type piston;
- release device;
- muffler;
- exhaust valve;
- moisture separator chamber;
- check valve;
- jet;
- ring filter element;
- pressure regulator and supply inlet;
- atmospheric output;
- fasteners for installation.
Air dehumidification is carried out by a compressor through which the air flow passes. The air then passes through a ring-type filter, where it is cleaned of carbon deposits and oil evaporation.
In the ring filter device, the air flow is cooled, due to which some of the moisture remains in the chamber of the drying device.
After the filters, the air passes through granular powder to a check valve. After it, it reaches the air receiver of the brake mechanism, passing through the outlets.
At the same time, filling occurs through the nozzle and outlet air receiver, which is used for regeneration. Airflow Cleaning and Initial Removal excess moisture in the ring filter element helps to increase the service life of the brake mechanisms.
How to install a dehumidifier
In order to install this device, you will need the following tools:
- wrench;
- welding machine;
- screwdriver;
- hammer.
Before installing an air dryer on a KamAZ truck, it is recommended to wear safety glasses and a mask to avoid injury.
Connection diagram and procedure during installation of the device:
- Set transport to inspection hole or a platform for carrying out repair work.
- Unscrew the fasteners and remove the vehicle bracket.
- Remove the radiator from the car body.
- Remove the O-rings and gasket.
- Using the mounting bolts, screw the dehumidifier to the support frame.
- Connect the pipe that comes from the compressor housing to the dryer.
- Conduct visual inspection membrane density.
- Check the check valve.
- Check the pressure level in the system and the degree of air compression.
- Check the functionality of the condensate drain valve.
- Install the O-rings on the filter device.
- Screw on the top cover.
- Reinstall the radiator and bracket.
Operating rules
In order for the air regeneration device to function without failures, it is necessary to carry out timely maintenance in accordance with the user manual. It is also recommended to inspect the device daily for damage and defects.
In order to check the safety valve of the equipment, you need to tighten the hollow screw of the regulator until it stops. If the mechanism is working properly, then at pressure “A” the outlet valve will open, which must be sealed during the switching interval.
The check valve is serviced using a pressure gauge. If the pressure level drops to 0 bar, it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism and check the integrity of the parts.
In order to diagnose the drying device, you should lower the pressure level and determine the switching interval “C”. If the readings exceed the norm, it is recommended to turn the screw to the left, and if the readings are below the norm, to the right. After all the lock nuts have been tightened, you need to check the adjustment of the adjusting device again.
When air flow is applied to the terminals, a leak of 10 cm per minute is allowed, and the minimum pressure level in the system can drop to 1 bar.
Malfunctions and repairs
In some cases, repairs may be required; malfunctions may be caused by leaks in the brake system. The device stops automatically removing moisture and condensation. In this case, the O-ring and springs may need to be replaced.
Household dehumidifier is a portable electrical device that is designed to reduce and maintain comfortable relative air humidity in the premises of a house or apartment.
For everyday use, air dehumidifiers are usually produced that operate on the principle of cooling air and condensing water from it using a built-in compressor with an evaporator, as in refrigerators. That's why they are called condensation. Such dehumidifiers have high performance and are able to quickly create and constantly maintain a relative air humidity in the room that is comfortable for humans, pets and property in the range of 40-60%.
Design and principle of operation
condensation dehumidifier
If you remove the food storage cabinet with freezer from the refrigerator body, and place everything else in a separate housing, you will get a condensation dehumidifier, which is shown in the photo.
Let's look at the design and principle of operation of an air dryer using the example of the German model "Kaut K20", the diagram of which is shown in the drawing.
Humid air from the room is sucked into the dehumidifier body through the grille on the front panel of the dehumidifier due to the rotation of the fan blades. Next, the air passes through a heat exchanger, in which water is removed from it, passes through a filter and returns back to the room already dry.
The heat exchanger consists of two zones - warm and cold. At first wet air enters the heated zone of the heat exchanger and is heated. It then passes through the cold zone of the heat exchanger and is cooled. Since the temperature difference between the heated air and the cold zone of the heat exchanger is large, water from the air is deposited on its ribs (condenses) and flows down the walls into the condensate tray.
Electrical circuit and operating principle
Air dehumidifier for electrical network alternating current 220 V is connected using an electrical plug type C6. To indicate the supply voltage to the circuit, an indicator made on a neon light bulb HL1 is installed on the front panel.
When the dehumidifier operates, water is removed from the air, which is collected in a 5.5 liter water collection tank. To prevent water overflow, a water level sensor S is installed, which, if the tank is full, turns off the dryer and turns on the neon tank-fill indicator HL2 installed on the front panel. Resistors R1 and R2 serve to limit the current flowing through neon bulbs. The water level sensor is made on a mechanical microswitch.
The required level of air humidity is set and maintained thanks to a gyrostat (H) type TW2001R-A, capable of regulating relative humidity in the range from 10% to 80%. The gyrostat is controlled using a knob located on the front panel of the dryer. When the relative humidity drops to a predetermined level, the gyrostat turns off the supply voltage to the fan and compressor.
To ensure air circulation through the heat exchanger, fan M is used, which has two speed modes. When switch I is closed, the supply voltage is supplied without limitation and the fan blades rotate at maximum speed. To reduce the noise level, for example, when the dehumidifier is operating at night, a current-limiting resistor R3 is installed, due to which, when switch I opens, the speed of the blades is reduced. It is worth noting that in this mode the performance of the dryer also decreases.
To prevent the formation of an ice coat on the heat exchanger, the circuit has a control unit, and a temperature sensor is built into the heat exchanger. If the temperature of the cooling section of the heat exchanger approaches 0°C, the control unit turns off the compressor until the temperature rises.
How does the compressor work in a dryer?
The compressor is a sealed cylindrical metal housing. It contains an electric motor with a system of valves, which, when the electric motor operates, creates an output high pressure. Freon gas or others with similar physical characteristics, such as R134a, are used as a refrigerant in compressors.
From the outlet of the compressor, freon is heated and takes on a liquid state from compression. copper tube, first passes through the air heating heat exchanger zone, where it gives off its heat. Leaving the heating zone, the tube narrows to an internal diameter of 0.6-0.8 mm, forming a capillary more than half a meter long. Next, the tube expands again to its previous diameter.
Coming out of the capillary tube, freon is directed to the cooling zone of the heat exchanger. Due to the large difference in tube diameters, a pressure drop occurs. As a result, freon boils and goes into a gaseous state, absorbing a large number of heat that is taken from the cooling zone of the heat exchanger. After this, the freon returns to the compressor, where the gas is again compressed and sent to the heat exchanger. As long as the compressor motor is turned on, freon will circulate continuously through the heat exchanger.
The compressor works on this principle in any home refrigerator; only the heating part of the heat exchanger is installed on back wall his closet, and the cooling (freezer) is inside it.
Attention! When repairing a dehumidifier or any other electrical appliance connected to the household network, care should be taken. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical network may result in injury. electric shock. Don't forget to remove the plug from the socket!
DIY dehumidifier repair
Having studied the principle of operation and the electrical circuit of the air dryer, you can begin to repair it yourself.
The first step is to make sure that the water collection tank is not overfilled. Next, use the gyrostat knob to set the required humidity level, for example, by setting the pointer to number 6 (relative humidity 60%). The fan speed switch button must be in the recessed position. Then insert the dehumidifier plug into the socket; the green power connection indicator HL1 should light up and the red tank overflow indicator HL2 should not light up. The fan blades should rotate and the compressor should start working.
If the dehumidifier is working properly, then after 5-10 minutes of operation, cold air should flow from its rear grille, and water should appear in the reservoir. Otherwise, the dehumidifier is faulty and requires repair.
Troubleshooting any electrical appliance always starts with the socket, plug and power cord. If the green indicator lights up, then everything is fine. Otherwise, you need to make sure that the socket, plug and power cord are in good working order. To check the socket, simply insert the plug of any electrical appliance into it, for example, a table lamp.
How to disassemble a dehumidifier
If the dryer does not work and the red indicator lights up, and there is no water in the tank, then the malfunction is associated with microswitch S. To check and repair it, the dryer must be disassembled.
In order to get to the parts and components, you need to remove the front and back panels, and the top cover. It is more convenient to start disassembling from the rear panel. To do this, you first need to unscrew the screw that holds the panel from the bottom.
Then unscrew four more screws located directly in the hidden holes of the panel and remove it. At the same time, it is worth checking the condition of the air filter.
Next, you need to unscrew the four screws in the hidden holes on the front panel and carefully remove it so as not to damage the wires coming from the controls. After this, all that remains is to push apart the lower edges of the U-shaped cover and remove it by sliding it up.
Now all components will be available for inspection and repair. The presented photograph contains inscriptions indicating the location of all the main components.
The first step is to carefully inspect all detachable connections. There should be no discoloration of coatings or blackening on them. Next, check that the connectors are securely seated on the terminals. To do this, you need to try to tug each of the connectors, holding it with your fingers; the connectors on the terminals should hold tightly. If the connector comes off easily, you need to tighten it with pliers.
Checking the tank water level indicator and sensor
First of all, you need to make sure that the water sensor pusher moves freely. To do this, you need to press your finger on the black key, which is located in the upper right corner of the water tank compartment.
When pressed and released, the key should easily retract and return to its original position. In this case, a characteristic click of the microswitch should be heard. The red indicator should go out when you press the key, and light up when you release it. If something is wrong, then you need to remove the sensor and find out why it is not working.
The water level sensor is installed on the fan side and is located to the right of its damping resistance. In order to get to the sensor, it is enough to unscrew a pair of screws and separate the two halves of the housing in which the microswitch is installed. The photo shows the switch in blue.
At the last stage of the test, you need to check, using a multimeter or tester turned on in resistance measurement mode, the serviceability of the internal contacts of the microswitch.
Checking the serviceability of the gyrostat
If the water level sensor and signal indicator are working properly, then the next element that controls the operation of the compressor is a gyrostat type TW2001R-A.
A gyrostat is a metal box containing a humidity sensor mechanically connected to electrical contacts. This is practically a programmable switch that closes or opens contacts when a specified humidity level is reached.
To check the gyrostat, just set it using the knob on the control panel low level humidity and turn on the dehumidifier. If the fan blades are spinning, then the gyrostat is working properly. If the fan does not work, then it may be faulty. To check the fan, you need to short-circuit the gyrostat terminals or apply supply voltage directly to the fan terminals, having previously disconnected them from the dryer circuit.
The dehumidifier will not work unless the water tank is installed (the red light will be on). To make the dehumidifier work without installed tank, you need to recess the water level sensor key and jam it using, for example, a piece of wire, as shown in the photo.
Checking the fan operation
If the fan blades rotate at insufficient speed or stop, the cooling heat exchanger will cool down to negative temperature. Then the control unit will turn off the compressor and the dryer will stop working.
The fan may not rotate well due to insufficient lubrication of the motor shaft bearings or faulty windings. To check the lubrication, just turn the blades by hand. The blades should continue to rotate for some time after the impact. If the blades rotate tightly and do not continue to rotate after exposure, then you need to lubricate the bearings through the holes provided for this in its body.
If this is not possible, then you will need to disassemble the engine, remove the old frozen lubricant using white alcohol and apply fresh one. If the windings are faulty, the motor will have to be replaced with a new one.
The fan may not work due to a malfunction of the button for switching its operating mode or the current-limiting resistor (resistance) shown in the photo. When you press the button for switching the speed of rotation of the fan blades, it should lock in the pressed state and the speed of rotation of the blades should increase.
If the fan operates when the button is pressed, but the blades do not rotate when the button is pressed, then the current-limiting resistor is faulty. If the button does not affect the speed, then it is faulty.
How to check compressor operation
If the check shows that the power cord, water level sensor, gyrostat and fan are working, then all that remains is to check the functionality of the control unit and compressor.
Of these two units, the easiest to check is the compressor, the label of which says that it operates on an alternating voltage of 220 V. To check, it is enough to apply a 220 V mains voltage to its input terminals using a separate cord with a plug.
To gain access to the terminals, you need to remove the protective plastic cover from the compressor, to do this, insert and press the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the hole located on top of it. The latch will release and the cover will be easily removed.
There are three wires connected to the compressor. The wire yellow - green color is grounding, and black And blue the wires are supplied with supply voltage. Therefore, you need to remove the connectors from these contacts and apply 220 V to them. If everything is in order with the compressor, it will start working and after a couple of minutes the cooling zone of the heat exchanger will become cold. If the compressor motor is running and the temperature of the heat exchanger does not change, it means there is a freon leak.
If the compressor is faulty, you will have to contact service. Repair the compressor yourself at home without special equipment home handyman I can't do it.
Checking and repairing the control unit
Applying supply voltage directly to the compressor showed its serviceability. Only the control unit remained unchecked and it is obvious that the dryer does not work due to its malfunction.
The photo shows the control unit of the Kaut K20 air dryer. It performs the function of turning off the compressor if the temperature of the cooling zone of the heat exchanger approaches zero. Thus, disruption of the operation of the dehumidifier due to the formation of a snow coat on the heat exchanger is eliminated.
To be able to maintain the set temperature of the cooling zone of the heat exchanger, a thermistor (thermal resistance) is installed between its fins, which is highlighted in blue in the photo. When the temperature changes, the value of its resistance changes. There are two wires coming from the thermistor, which are connected via a plug-in connection to the Control Unit.
The photo shows the reading of a multimeter when measuring the resistance of a thermistor at a temperature of 20°C. The thermal resistance in the air dryer being repaired turned out to be serviceable.
To check the serviceability of the thermistor, you need to disconnect the connector with the wires coming from it from the control unit and touch the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the removed connector and measure the resistance value. It should be about 10 kOhm. If the resistance is zero, then there is a short circuit in the wires. And if it is equal to infinity, then either the wires are broken or the thermistor is faulty.
Consequently, the Control Unit (CU) itself is faulty. To find the faulty element, it must be removed. First you need to disconnect all connectors with wires from the terminals of the control unit. Before disconnecting the connectors, do not forget to photograph or sketch the order in which they are connected.
The control unit is attached to the base using four plastic stands. To release it, you need to squeeze the protruding parts with tweezers. printed circuit board parts of the racks as shown in the photo.
External inspection of the quality of rations and appearance radioelements did not reveal any deviations from the norm. Testing the diode, rectifier bridge and resistances with a multimeter showed their serviceability.
Checking the resistors and semiconductor devices installed on the side of the printed conductors of the control unit also did not reveal any faulty parts. Only the capacitors and the microcircuit remained untested, since it is impossible to check them without soldering them.
To further troubleshoot the problem, the control unit decided to power it from a separate source. direct current, applying a supply voltage of 24 V to the plus and minus terminals of the rectifier bridge. The voltage value was selected based on the supply voltage of the relay, which is indicated on its body. Instead of a thermistor, a variable resistance of 15 kOhm was connected.
The current consumption was about 10 mA, which indicated the absence short circuit in the diagram. When the resistance value changed, the relay was activated, which indicated the operability of the voltage-fed electrical part of the control unit circuit.
It became obvious that the current-limiting capacitor with a capacity of 0.68 μF was broken. You see him in the photo.
The failed capacitor was soldered out, and instead of it, two serviceable ones with a capacity of 0.33 μF were soldered in parallel. At parallel connection capacitors, the resulting capacitance is equal to the sum of the capacitances of each of them. The result was a capacitance of 0.66 μF, which is quite enough to replace a failed capacitor.
The control unit was connected without fixing to electrical diagram. When I turned on the dehumidifier it started working. All that remains is to securely install the capacitors on the printed circuit board.
On printed circuit board there was no space to install an additional capacitor. Therefore, I had to unsolder the resistor connected in parallel to the capacitor and additionally drill two holes in it, into which the second capacitor was installed and sealed.
The soldered resistor was soldered directly to the terminals of one of the capacitors. This installation of elements guaranteed reliable operation.
The self-repaired air dryer control unit board was installed and secured on standard racks. A repeated check confirmed the proper operation of the air dryer; after ten minutes of operation, water appeared in the condensate collection tray.
Repairing the network connection indicator
Even when connecting the dehumidifier to the household network for the first time, it was discovered that the top indicator, which should light up when the plug is connected to the socket, did not light up, although voltage was supplied to it, since the fan blades were rotating.
The indicator was a non-separable plastic cylinder with two terminals. The indicator was attached to the front panel using latches.
In order to get to the light source of the indicator, I had to cut it around the circumference using a hacksaw and break it at the cut point.
It turned out that there was a neon light bulb inside, connected in series with a current-limiting resistor. Checking the resistor showed its serviceability. Consequently, the indicator did not work due to a faulty bulb.
A working green neon light bulb with a resistor was removed from the switch from the Pilot with a broken key. Such light bulbs are widely used as indicators in many household electrical appliances, for example, in an electric kettle and iron.
A working light bulb was soldered to the terminals of the indicator housing and tested. The broken plastic indicator tube was glued in place with Moment glue and additionally the plastic was melted using a soldering iron.
After installing the indicator in place and assembling the housing, the DIY air dryer repair was successfully completed.
StarKraft company offers a wide range of compressors and additional equipment, provides installation, configuration and maintenance services for operating units. Right now you can buy a compressor, take advantage of the qualified help of our consultants, or call a specialist to carry out commissioning or maintenance. Experienced employees of our company will also tell you how to properly install a dehumidifier on a compressor and what it is needed for.
The dehumidifier is an additional piece of equipment whose task is to improve the quality of the air flow at the outlet compressor unit. This is achieved simple method- removal of atmospheric moisture from it
Types and types of moisture separators
Before installing a dehumidifier on the compressor, you need to decide on its type and make sure it is compatible with the model of equipment you are using. The necessary information can be found in technical documentation. Most often, additional equipment can be installed both before and after the receiver. Be sure to make sure that the power of the dehumidifier will be sufficient for collaboration with a compressor of this model. At the end installation work it is necessary to check the serviceability of each element of the system and the reliability of all connections. How to properly install a moisture separator on a compressor is also described in the equipment instructions.
There are several types of dehumidifiers: 
- Cyclonic;
- Silica gel based;
- Refrigeration type.
Cyclone-type water separators operate according to the following principle. The air flow from the compressor, getting inside, swirls along the walls of the device. This helps separate moisture from the air. The condensate flows into a special compartment with a system that blocks the possibility of liquid getting back. Such systems provide the possibility of periodically draining accumulated condensate.
Another type of dehumidifier, based on silica gel, works on a different principle. It is based on the ability of this substance to absorb moisture. Before installing a dehumidifier on the compressor, make sure that this type of accessory can be used with this model of installation. To prepare the dehumidifier for operation, silica gel is poured into it. The greatest effect can be achieved when the design of the device assumes that air will pass through it, overcoming the entire layer of silica gel along the way.
Another type of dehumidifier that you can find on the market is based on the operating principle of a refrigerator. The compressed air is passed through a cooling unit, which dries it, freeing it from condensation. This is the most efficient system air purification, but also more expensive in comparison with others described above.
Based on their many years of experience, StarKraft specialists have prepared several general recommendations, how to properly install the dehumidifier. The compressor and additional equipment can be of any model, but there are a number general requirements and rules to follow.
- Connection and installation of equipment must be carried out so that the air entering the system is as low as possible. For example, in winter time, when supplying air from the street, you can achieve a multiple (4-5 times) reduction in its humidity.
- It is necessary to periodically check that the air in the receiver is at maximum pressure.
- When choosing a room for installing a compressor station, you should give preference to the coolest place. Also, the compressor room must have a powerful and reliable ventilation system.
- If we're talking about about the operation of a small mobile compressor, before turning it on (especially in winter period) it is advisable to take the installation outside in order to cool its body as much as possible.
- Where and how to install the dehumidifier on the compressor also matters. It is best to do this in a place where the air flow passes from minimum temperature and at maximum pressure.
- If, despite everything, you cannot reduce the temperature of the receiver, you can resort to a little trick. Connect a small receiver in series to the main station, installing it outdoors. This will help further reduce the temperature of the air that enters the main system.
- Measures for timely maintenance, checking the condition of filters, and replacing failed elements are extremely important.
To achieve maximum effect from the equipment in use and improve the quality of air flow, entrust the installation of the unit itself and additional elements professionals. StarKraft specialists will carry out all work with a guarantee, in a short time, with high quality and at affordable prices.
Prepared by: Elizaveta Semyonova