Types of fencing for the terrace - technology for manufacturing wooden fencing and stairs to the terrace. Stair railings - the finishing touch to the design Choosing the type of design

The assembly of the staircase railings is completed by installing the handrail. Not everyone knows how to fasten a handrail, how to do it correctly, reliably and discreetly. We will describe some common methods for wooden and metal stairs here.

Attaching a handrail to the balusters of a wooden staircase

It turns out that wooden railings are the most difficult to make. This is because there are many different ways and techniques for working with wood and almost no ready-made solutions, since each staircase is individual and has its own characteristics. For example, fastening a handrail to balusters can be done using dowels, screws, nails, bolts, special couplers(zipbolt), glue. In addition, you can “mount” the railing directly on the balusters and posts, but there are options with an additional strip, which is sometimes called a “rail rail.” And all of these are the “correct” ways to connect the posts to the handrail. We will talk about how to do this in this section.

First of all, cut off a piece of the handrail required length. This can be a fragment from one support pillar to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper/lower pillar until the moment of turning. It all depends on the design of the staircase. If there are joints between two fragments, they must be processed well, achieving a perfect match. Then the handrails for the street must be coated with protective impregnations, and then painted/varnished. Afterwards you can deal with the issues of attaching the handrail to the stairs.

How to trim balusters for installing handrails

After installing the balusters on the steps, their tops are on different levels, and you can’t install a handrail on them without trimming them - it doesn’t fit like that. To install the support handrail on the stairs, it is necessary to cut the upper part of the racks at a certain angle. This angle is determined by the steepness of the flight of stairs and does not need to be calculated. It is determined “on the spot”.

To find the cutting angle of the balusters, you can use the tension between support pillars thread. We tie it at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where, according to the plan, the lower border of the handrail will pass. With this taut thread Use a pencil to draw a line to the tops of the posts. You can use a thread instead of a thread, or you can also temporarily secure a guide (any flat strip).

This is how it should turn out - the staircase railings are ready for installing handrails

We got the line, now we saw off the tops of the columns on the stairs strictly along it. Next, you can continue attaching the handrail to balusters or posts.

Allow me one piece of advice: if for the subsequent installation of the railing you need to drill holes for dowels or studs, it is better to do this before trimming. This makes it easier to find the center, easier to hold the drill perpendicular. After the holes are made, you can take a saw/jigsaw and file along the intended markings of the rack.

Connecting balusters and railings with dowels and threaded rods

Let's consider one of traditional ways: fastening the handrail using dowels or pins. For this type of connection, it is necessary to make matching holes in the handrail and staircase railing posts. If you install studs, you can screw them into the holes made in the center of the balusters and install the handrail in the position in which it should stand. After checking that everything is in place correctly, walk along the handrail, tapping each baluster with your fist. protruding ends metal studs will leave a mark on the back of the handrail. Remove the handrail and mark the resulting marks with a marker/pencil for reliability. Now you can drill the holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its “fitting” into place.

The second option for marking the handrail for installing pins and dowels is carried out before they are installed in the balusters. First of all, we put the cut piece of the handrail in place. Then, with a pencil, mark on both sides where the balusters are installed. Before making marks, check the distance between adjacent posts below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, we put marks; if not, we adjust the position of the rack and only then make marks. Adjustments are needed to ensure that all the staircase supports are vertical. This will make the railing more secure.

After all the balusters are marked, remove the handrail. On the reverse side are the marks we made. We draw diagonals between the pairs of lines that outline the baluster. We put a mark at the place where they intersect. Here you will need to drill a hole for a dowel or pin. We find the centers on the balusters in the same way (if there are no holes in them yet). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railing, problems can arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit into the post. The good news is that the baluster can be moved within certain limits. As long as it is not fixed, there is a certain freedom, and this can be used when installing the railing. Just move it so that the tenon fits into the groove. In general, you know how to attach handrails to dowels.

To make the installation of the railing more reliable, in addition to dowels or studs, you can coat the connection with glue. This will make the structure more rigid and extend its service life without backlash.

With an auxiliary bar - support rail

Agree that the most easy installation handrails on balusters - through screws or nails. What stops you from making such a decision? An overly unsightly result in the form of fastener caps that spoil the whole look. But there is a very similar method that guarantees a good appearance of the stair railings. An auxiliary bar is used, which is also called a bolster.

The auxiliary strip is cut with a tenon, which in mirror image repeats the shape of the groove in the lower part of the handrail. The flat side is placed on sawn balusters and fastened through (screws or nails - your choice). Don't forget to check the distances between adjacent posts.

Then the upper part of the support is coated with glue and the handrail is “planted”. All. There are no traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding together. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the height of the handrail turns out to be slightly larger, since the thickness of the auxiliary plank is added (if the plank is wooden, this is at least 2-3 cm).

There is another way to attach the handrail to the support rail - with small nails or self-tapping screws from below, at an angle. But with this fastening, the caps are visible. They can be disguised using one of the known methods, but it will take a long time...

The easiest way is to screw it with self-tapping screws

As you know, over time, wooden railings become “loose” due to the fact that under load they wobble, the wood fibers become crushed, and play appears. To reduce the possibility of play, when fastening through a plank, two or more screws/nails can be used for each baluster. This will make the handrail mount more rigid.

Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Any thin metal will do. Be it steel or aluminum. But then it will be necessary to either cut the bar to fit the size of the recess in the handrail, or modify the groove so that the handrail fits well on the structure. And one more thing: if the plank is metal, you need to find a universal glue that glues wood and metal well. This handrail mount for stairs is simple, beautiful, and reliable. Suitable for those who decided to make a stair railing with their own hands for the first time.

For spikes of different shapes

It is possible to install a wooden handrail without metal fasteners: with spikes and glue. Spikes are cut at the top of the balusters. Under them, recesses of the same shape are formed in the handrail. Tenon/groove shape - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, an oval. The main thing is that the tenon and groove match perfectly. This can be achieved by making a template and repeating it exactly on each fragment. The minimum tenon height is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.

After a tenon is formed on each baluster and a groove is cut in the corresponding place on the handrail, they are glued. When installing the handrail on the balusters, they can be shifted slightly to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after the glue has dried (the time is on the package).

Connection between handrail and support post

Often the handrail does not go on top of the post, but is connected to its side edge. How to connect the handrail and the post in this case? The easiest way is to, after cutting the handrail at the desired angle, secure it with screws or nails driven in at an angle. The disadvantages are obvious - the fastener heads are visible.

There is another way - to use a zip bolt, which consists of two movably connected studs and a gearbox. For its installation, a technological hole is required, which is made in the lower part of the handrail. It is then covered with a plug to match the wood and it becomes almost invisible. The second advantage of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent) if suddenly a backlash appears.

You also need to drill holes for the studs under the zipbolt - one in the post and one in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made in the handrail. It is positioned so that it is possible to tighten the thread under the gearbox (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is the size of the studs (from the joint to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the stud.

IN drilled holes studs are installed. It is screwed into the post and simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole, in which there is a hole for a hex key (6 mm). We rotate the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turn the key and tighten the thread, pulling the handrail to the post. This must be done after the balusters are connected to the handrail. By attaching the handrail to the post, you can assume that the railing is installed.

Installing handrails on prefabricated metal fencing

In general, assembling handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated) pipes is similar to a construction set. There are pipes different diameters, decorative elements for them, and a whole set various fastenings. The railings are assembled from all these parts. That’s why they are called “prefabricated”. When deciding how to attach handrails to metal balusters/posts/racks, your task is to choose those elements that suit your task better than others or that you like more than others.

To connect metal posts/balusters to the handrail, there are special ends that are attached to a round/square/rectangular pipe on one side and to the handrail on the other. There are different types of models. You just need to find the most suitable one, choose the one you need: according to the size of the racks and the type of handrail.

In metal prefabricated fences, handrails can be different:

round metal pipe;

profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;

plastic handrail (round, oval or original shape);

wooden of any profile.

Under each of these handrails there is a fastening, and usually more than one. Choose what you like. Fastening them is simple: clamping bolts. But, for reliability, and if the thickness of the metal allows, all connections of two metal parts weld. - it’s not an easy thing, but if you know how to handle a welding machine, nothing is impossible. Welding takes more time, but such fastening of the handrail will be very reliable.

When connecting elements metal stairs with plastic or wood, you must use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturers. Additionally, you can glue the joints universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, there is no particular point in this: the adhesion will be very low. But still…

Attaching a handrail to a welded or forged stair railing

A wooden handrail is usually placed on a forged or welded fence. In its lower part, a cut is made according to the dimensions of the upper lintel of the finished fence. The seating depth of the handrail is about 2 cm. More or less is possible - it depends on your desire. The railings are connected to the handrail with self-tapping screws, which are screwed through the holes in the upper lintel. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be slightly (at least 5 mm) less than the height of the handrail so that the screw does not stick out on the surface.

In this case, installing a handrail on the stairs is simple:

There is also the possibility of gluing a wooden handrail to welded or forged metal railings. When choosing a glue, you need to make sure that it can connect wood and metal. For external stairs (on, for example), you must also pay attention to the range of operating temperatures. Otherwise there are no difficulties:

apply glue according to instructions;

press the parts, secure with clamps;

leave until the glue dries;

remove the clamps.

To securely attach the handrail to steel staircase, you can use both of these methods. One does not interfere with the other.

Methods for attaching a stair handrail to a wall

A handrail is attached to the wall if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made of the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but it is attached to the wall.

For mounting the handrail on the wall there is whole line fastenings - brackets - for different profiles (round, oval, figured). On one side of the fastener there is a round or square fragment with a flat surface and holes made in it. We install this part on the wall. We select fasteners depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls made of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to lightweight concrete.

The number and size of fasteners for installing a stair handrail on a wall are selected based on reliability considerations. Manufacturers make at least four holes on each bracket. Here are four self-tapping screws/dowels/nails for each and we install them. When choosing a length, it is better to proceed from the considerations “the longer, the better.” Still, the wall handrail can bear a significant load, so it’s better to be safe than to fly down...

Second part for wall mount stair railings - where the handrail itself is attached - can be different. There may be a ring of a certain diameter for round pipes; there is usually a flat platform for rectangular or square handrails. This part of the stair handrail bracket also has holes so that the railing can be secured. And in this case, the number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (for the same reasons).

There are brackets for wall mounting of handrails with different angles tilt They are chosen based on their own ideas about convenience and the planned height of the support. There are also telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and/or the angle of inclination. There are also end wall brackets, which, while fixing the edges of the handrail, also decorate them.

The number of brackets depends on the length of the handrail. Usually one element is placed at the edges, and a calculated number between them, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The lower the load-bearing capacity of the wall, the more often we install wall holders for railings.

Today we will look at the issue of fastening balusters and railings when installing wooden stairs. Even a person who is not experienced in the intricacies of carpentry understands how rich and noble appearance wooden stairs are, how difficult they are to manufacture and install.

Calculation and production of parts

The railing of a wooden staircase consists of three key elements:

Railings are horizontal or inclined elements that can be grasped by hand.
Balusters - vertical supports between steps and railings.
Pillars or pedestals are vertical posts into which the ends of the railing rest. Typically, pillars have turned or carved heads.

The parts of each group are manufactured individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Posts and balusters are made primarily by turning, and railings by milling.

You need to start calculating the fence with the railings, which include straight and curved segments. In general, the configuration of the railing is determined by the shape of the staircase in plan. The outer edges of the steps are taken as the base for calculations; the railings are located with some indentation from them towards the center of the flight of stairs. The offset is necessary so that the support point of the pillars and balusters is not located at the very edge. The amount of indentation is determined by the cross-section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by aesthetic considerations. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of spans in plan, achieving a symmetrical setback on adjacent flights and at the same time maintaining the width of the passage as much as possible.

In space, individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the stairs. Calculation of the length and dimensions of the horizontal segments can be done by displaying a sketch of the railings on the staircase plan drawing. Inclined elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the flight of stairs is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.

When calculating pillars and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, stair railings must rise above the plane of the steps by at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public buildings and on street flights of stairs. The axial profile of pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the plane of support must be at least 10% of their height, balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal to the height of the fence + 7-10%, while in the base part a uniform profile (preferably faceted) should be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. Pillars are made in quantities of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or twice the number of steps.

The width of the railing in plan should be approximately 30-50 mm less than the thickness of the pillars in the abutment area and 15-20 mm greater than the thickness of the balusters. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but the preferred option is a rounded top with two longitudinal necks for a more secure hand grip. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm in both directions for cutting and fitting.

Pre-assembly and preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to first assemble the straight segments of the railing using adhesive joints. The spatial arrangement of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points of the vertical fencing elements. Since the railings are precisely machined and have a flat bottom edge, they are convenient to use as a straight rail for further marking.

Sometimes, at corners and turns of staircases, the distance between flights forces the installation of short handrail inserts between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the staircase, these sections are assembled either from one or several radius segments, or from linear segments. The railing elements are prepared and glued in advance; the connection is made using hidden domino-type tenons or 2-3 cylindrical dowels.

Also, before starting work, the required quantity of wooden dowels for attaching balusters and posts should be stocked. It is also advisable to cut the pillars themselves to size: if this could not be done in the workshop, then due to the large cross-section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to apply markings along the perimeter of the base part under the square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. Trimming is done along this line with a hand-held saw with a fine tooth; it is advisable to alternately go deeper into each face by 3-5 mm. For greater confidence, you can secure the limit rail with clamps.

Marking and fastening of pillars

The pillars are the basis for positioning the entire stair railing. They are located on each top and bottom step of each flight of stairs. If there are intermediate platforms, including rotary ones, this rule must also be observed. At the same time, the uppermost post can be common to the railing and balustrade.

Factory posts come in two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued together from strips of thick plywood or wood panels. It is very important that each post has a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in the case of joining with a round support, factory trimming of the edges of the handrail is required, which significantly complicates the installation process.

Hollow pillars are attached through a boss - a 150-200 mm piece of timber, the outer dimensions of which correspond as closely as possible to the cavity of the pillar. The boss is attached through a through axial hole using a pin screwed into the step or platform. This method of fastening allows for rotation of the post around its axis and a slight lateral play for its precise positioning. The hollow post is glued using thick glue; the lower end is first lubricated with a small amount of sealant; this perimeter band will prevent excess glue from squeezing out.

A - box-shaped post with fastening through a boss. B - solid post with dowel fastening. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - plinth; 4 - pin or anchor; 5 - dowel

Monolithic poles are fastened to one large (20-30 mm) dowel or to several small ones evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of fastening, it is desirable that the junction of the post to the site be framed by a plinth, which helps to hide the adhesive seam and increase the support plane. If you have a baseboard, you can also use the fastening method with ties for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will ultimately be hidden anyway.

The alignment of pillars is better with parallel pairs, that is, on intermediate platforms where flights of stairs converge. The distance between the pillars should provide a sufficiently large gap between the lower handrail and the steps of the upper flight. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight slats laid on the edges of the steps of converging marches. The plane laid across the line of intersection of the slats is the ideal position for installing the posts. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railings will overlap. When paired pillars are positioned on landings and turns, the end ones are also marked using the same principle; it is important here that the connection with the railing is carried out at the same height.

Trimming, installing balusters

Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of attaching the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the posts may be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. First, all balusters must be trimmed and their attachment points must be marked.

It is best to fasten the bottom of the balusters on dowels with zero tolerance, drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes you need to shoot laser level a vertical plane parallel to the end of the steps. If balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to use a square to find its middle, based on the riser. When installing balusters in pairs, you need to achieve their uniform spacing, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten off with a square, and the remaining “net” width is divided so that the centers of the balusters are spaced from the edges by 1/4 of the resulting segment.

When installing balusters, it is important to keep their heads strictly on the same line

Balusters with a figured profile must be aligned in length relative to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, aligning the profiles along their widest part. Next, a line is drawn under the long straight rail, which serves as a marking for trimming at right angles.

The bevel cut of the top of the balusters is made on a miter saw or in a precision miter box. Balusters are trimmed in groups for each flight of stairs. First you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs by placing a strip on the edges of the steps and marking the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. Using this marking, a template is made using a small tool, according to which fine tuning is carried out turntable saws.

Before oblique trimming, centering holes are made at the ends of the balusters; their depth should be sufficient to deepen the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters to length. This is quite simple to do: first, dry and strictly vertically install the two outer balusters of each span, which are temporarily fastened together with a regular strip with a straight edge, aligned with the upper edge of the oblique cut. Next, one by one, put the balusters in their place, use a caliper to determine the excess length and trim the lower end, if necessary, deepening the center hole and always numbering the parts.

Attaching handrails

The handrail can be attached to the posts using different methods, among which the most popular are fixation with spikes or self-tapping screws with through holes being made. The first method is more labor-intensive and often tenon fastening cannot be done without a groove router with precise adjustment of the inclination of the sole. In the second case, installation is simpler, but there are mounting holes on the backs of the posts that need to be closed with decorative plugs.

Railing with railing

Attaching the railings to the balusters is done in two ways. Simple - using a rail and a little more complex - using wooden dowels. The choice of fastening method depends entirely on the profile of the handrail: when fixing to an intermediate rail, a rectangular groove to the appropriate depth must be selected in the lower edge of the product. The handrails for fastening to dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the base part of the balusters, but it is intended solely for masking the fastening points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.

The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in different sequences. When attaching to a railing rail, balusters are first glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is installed, and then the handrails are cut and secured with self-tapping screws from below. When installing balusters on dowels and attaching handrails to posts with self-tapping screws, first glue all the railings, and drilling into them must be carried out with tolerance: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are attached to dowels, and the pillars to the handrails are fastened with a tenon connection, the pedestals are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all elements of the staircase in a short time for the glue to set.

Final processing of the railings

As a rule, wooden stair railings are assembled from parts that have already been primed and painted. In such cases, all that remains is to disguise the places where the railings join together, where they join the posts and where the balusters join the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. To fill the cracks, you can use acrylic sealant or wood paste based on natural wax.

If wooden parts do not have a protective coating at the time of assembly, the cracks in them are sealed with wood putty, and then the entire fence along with the stairs is primed and painted. It is recommended to apply two layers of transparent water-soluble primer followed by fine sanding to remove raised lint. Next, the steps are covered with stain or glaze in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to choose two layers of transparent polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.

Perhaps any staircase is impossible without a reliable, functional and beautiful fence. Thanks to its presence, ordinary steps acquire an attractive aesthetic appearance and fit harmoniously into any interior.

To such important details, like stair railings and railings, there are almost more requirements than for the stairs themselves. After all, here a thoughtful design must be combined with strength and reliability. But let's talk about everything in order.

Helpful information

It is believed that stair railings are mandatory if the structure has more than three steps. This is necessary for comfortable movement and safety. If the staircase is built close to the wall, then you can use so-called wall handrails.

Please note! Wall handrails should be located 5-7 cm from the wall for free movement of the hand.

Important rules for installing railings according to SNiP
We will not consider all the currently existing rules regulated by SNiP, but will present only the most basic of them.
So here you go brief instructions which must be observed when constructing stairs and:
According to standards, any stair railing must withstand a minimum load 0.3 kN/m.

If the width of the staircase exceeds 1200 cm, then the presence of railings on both sides is mandatory. And if the width of the structure is over 2500 cm, then additional dividing railings must be installed in the center.

It is better to make handrails continuous, without protrusions or gaps. The beginning and end of the handrail should preferably be rounded, protruding 30 cm beyond the steps.

The height of the staircase railings according to SNiP for different categories of people varies from 700 to 900 cm. But for children, the railings should be no more than 50 cm in height.

What does the stair railing consist of?
Such structures, regardless of the material from which they are made, have the following basic components:
frame racks;

filling (balusters), performing protective and decorative functions;

handrails necessary to provide hand support.

For each type of staircase structure, you need to carefully and rationally select railings and stair railings. Therefore, let's look at the currently popular types of stairs and railings for them.
Types of stairs
Traditional marching. In this case, stair railings and railings consist primarily of straight structural sections corresponding to the length of one flight. Marching buildings are usually made where there is enough free space.

With curved marches. It should be noted that the fashion for such stairs is growing and growing every year, thanks to their exclusive characteristics. True, the complexity of manufacturing and, accordingly, the high price prevents their widespread distribution.

Screw. They allow you to significantly save space, and at the same time become an original component. general interior. The main burden here falls on the special central pillar and railings.

Attention! The manufacture of railings for screw structures is associated with certain technological difficulties. And truly high-quality railings can only be made in a specialized workshop or a well-equipped workshop.

Types of stair railings
According to the cross-section, stair railings and fences are:
round;

rectangular;

square.

And if we talk about the materials used for manufacturing, then there is much more types and their features:
Without any doubt, the leading position is occupied by stainless steel. It has excellent performance and aesthetic characteristics:

With all the visual lightness and elegance, stainless steel stair railings are very strong and durable (their average term service life is 30 years - all these years they will retain their original appearance and functionality).

The high strength of steel railings is achieved due to a unique alloy: its composition includes iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum and nitrogen. Thanks to this combination, steel products acquire amazing resistance to time, temperature changes, precipitation and mechanical damage.

Steel railings do not need to be periodically cleaned or painted. It is enough just to wipe them occasionally with a damp cloth.

In addition, the surface of stainless steel fences is covered with a special film, which gives it anti-corrosion properties.

In case of fire, explosion or attempts to break it, the steel fence will continue to stand firmly in place.

The cost of these designs is low and will appeal to even the most economical people.

Steel fencing opens up wide scope for the implementation of design ideas! With their help, you can create absolutely any style both outside and inside the building. They blend in perfectly with everyone building materials, from wood to granite, and with any decorative elements.

The areas of application of these products are limitless: entrance and internal stairs, swimming pools, ramps, balconies, terraces...

Glass fencing can rightfully be considered one of the most beautiful options staircase design! There are two interesting solutions here:

Order a stair railing with a metal frame and decorative glass inserts.

Or make a choice in favor of a self-supporting glass fencing made of solid, tempered glass increased strength, without balusters. It is mounted using stainless steel point fasteners into the end of a concrete or wooden floor.

Advice! Experts recommend choosing a self-supporting glass fence 17 mm thick, which consists of two tempered triplex glasses (each 8 mm thick), glued together with a polymer plastic mass or film.

Wooden stair railings. Wood itself is a noble material. And therefore, products from it always come out as if “alive”! Especially if it's handmade(that is, the master cut and processed every detail with his own hands). True, such beauty is quite expensive.

Wooden railings are most often used for stairs inside buildings, since this natural material in poor conditions, it quickly loses its strength and decorative properties. However, for interior design premises, wood is one of the most suitable, reliable and durable materials.
To create stair railings, coniferous species (larch, pine, cedar), as well as walnut, cherry, oak, and mahogany are most often used. Palette wood materials very extensive and striking with its natural shades.
Fascinating forged fences– an excellent solution for buildings decorated in an aristocratic style classic style! And, it should be noted, this is not only a tribute to fashion and aesthetics, but also reliability, proven over centuries. Protective covering from corrosion and special forge paint will protect the forged fence from its only enemy - moisture.

Forged products go well with stairs made of concrete, wood, marble, on a metal frame, as well as with any other structures finished with modern materials.
Among the assortment of forged railings you can find: budget models from standard sections, as well as exclusive hand-forged models. But no matter what your choice falls on, you will in any case receive a product of excellent quality that will last you a very, very long time!
Combined stair railings. If you don’t like standard products made from any one material (steel, wood, glass, forging) or don’t suit your interior, then there is always the opportunity to order custom fencing. In this case, you can combine several materials in one product (for example, glass with metal, or forging with wood) and achieve the desired effect.

For your information! Today you can find whatever your heart desires in stores. In particular, railings for stairs with lighting. LED elements built into the railings are very stylish and unusual.

about the features of roof fencing).

Definition
Types of fencing
Calculation of fences
Height
Width
Distances

Stair railings ensure safety of movement along the stairs when ascending and descending. Railings and balusters complete the design of the march and emphasize the style. Railings and fences can be ordered from finished form or make them yourself.

Definition

Railings are vertical structures installed along the edge of a flight of stairs. They ensure the safety of people when ascending and descending. The railing consists of several elements:

Handrail – top part, on which a person’s hand rests when moving.
Balusters are vertical posts that support the handrail. The outermost stand is a cabinet. Handrails are attached to it at the bottom and top of the flight.
Horizontal slats (string) - fencing under the handrails - are located parallel to the movement of the march. Replace balusters.
Fastening system – elements for fixing the fence.

Basic functions of railings and balusters

Fences must be installed on flights of stairs longer than 4 steps. There may be no railings on the stairs on the wall side, but there must be railings on the free side.. The elements are securely fastened so that the structure can perform its main functions:

Support. Stair lifts have different angles of rise. People of varying physical fitness overcome these obstacles. Stair railings should help people get up of different ages, weight and physical ability to distribute the load on the legs when ascending and descending.
Safety. Properly designed ladders not only provide stability for the climber, but also prevent falls in the event of loss of balance.
Decor. Stair railings decorate the flight and emphasize the style. When choosing the design of wooden and metal handrails, it is important to combine them with the surrounding space.

Types of fencing

Stair railing can be made from different materials and have different shape, therefore, these structures are classified according to several criteria.

Fences can be:

metal;
wooden;
polymer;
glass;
concrete;
combined.

Metal railings and fencing posts are made of aluminum or forged steel. The former are distinguished by impeccable shine and smoothness, the latter have decorative properties, since they are made according to individual sketches.

Wooden railings are most often found in private homes: they are warm to the touch, smooth, fit into any interior, and are affordable.

Polymer fences are made of hard plastics that are installed on special fasteners. Compared to other materials, polymer is the cheapest.

Glass fencing is installed in public buildings: in shopping and office centers. They are made from tempered glass.

Concrete barriers are suitable for entrance buildings and on main staircases. Elements are cast from concrete in a factory, sometimes right on the construction site.

Combined fencing combines several materials. The most common option is to install wooden railings on forged or aluminum balusters.

Handrails also differ in the installation method:

A separate profile (tube, shaped profile, rectangular) is a product that is attached to the fence structure with special parts.
Balusters and railings are a classic option for arranging stair railings. They are attached to each other and fixed on the flight of stairs.
Modular ones consist of ready-made blocks (baluster or fence + handrail + fasteners). They are assembled in accordance with the march plan on the spot.

By location, metal, plastic and wooden railings can be:

external, they are installed on the street. The main requirement for materials for manufacturing is resistance to weather conditions;
Internal fences in premises can be made of any materials.

Calculation of fences

To make reliable railings, they must be calculated correctly

Height

The height of the wooden handrail is the main value that must be determined to ensure safety. According to regulatory construction documents, the height of the railing should be:

0.9 meters for public buildings and residential buildings;
in areas where a fall from a height of more than 5 meters is possible, it is necessary to fasten fences with a height of 110 cm;
stair railings in a house or building with special requirements can be located at a height of 0.7 meters;
in children's institutions, handrails are installed at a height of 0.5 meters.

For institutions where there is a flow of children (schools, kindergartens), double fences of 0.9 and 0.5 meters are usually installed parallel to each other at a distance of up to 10 cm. This ensures comfortable movement for children and adults.

The height of the railings in a private house may not correspond to the norm, but it is allowed individual definition this parameter. To calculate the ideal height, stretch your arm forward when descending a flight of stairs. Then measure the distance from your palm to the step. This is the ideal height for you.

Width

The width of the railing should be such that you can grab the handrail. According to the standard, they are produced in widths from 30 to 70 mm; larger sizes are also used for main staircases.

How to determine the width of the handrails that is comfortable for you: in case of a possible fall, the handrail should be comfortable to grab onto without the risk of injury.

Distances

The reliability and strength of the structure largely depend on the distance between the balusters.

The number of balusters and their parameters are determined by the size and weight of the handrail. When using flexible or heavy railings, balusters should be installed on the stairs so that the profile does not sag or excessive loading of the supports occurs. If spans of more than 15 cm are formed, it is necessary to install a protective string parallel to the railings.
Balusters in the classic version on wooden stairs installed at each stage, sometimes several at once.

For children's institutions, it is necessary to install supports on each step every 15-20 cm to prevent children from falling.

Manufacturing of wooden fences

For a dacha or private home, you can design and manufacture fencing yourself. This will allow you to get custom railings that match the home owner’s design. The cost of a homemade product is significantly lower than that of a purchased product.

Step-by-step plan for making a structure with your own hands.

Step 1. Drawing up a diagram

If the house already has a finished staircase without a fence, the design should be done based on its plan. If construction is just beginning, and you already have an interesting idea for railings, then the flight of stairs can be adjusted to these wishes.

A plan is created that takes into account:

height of the stair railing;
type and pitch of balusters;
railing width

Step 2. Select wood for making components

For the production of balusters and handrail profiles, different tree species are used:

The most durable wood is beech, ash and oak. It has a pleasant structure and an expressive cut.
Wood is common and inexpensive coniferous species– spruce, pine, larch.

It is undesirable to use soft deciduous wood to create fences - the products shrink greatly and become deformed when drying, becoming covered with cracks.

The normal moisture content of wood that can be used for making railings and balusters is 12–18%.

Step 3. How to make balusters

The method is determined by their shape.

They can be:

flat;
voluminous.

To make flat balusters you will need processed boards. Hand saws and with a carving tool a pattern is made on them. There are many examples, some ideas can be gleaned from the photographs presented.

To make a three-dimensional baluster you will need a lathe. On rotating equipment, the desired pattern is cut out using various chisels and knives. A milling machine will help you achieve a deeper, asymmetrical design that cannot be done on a lathe.

Step 4. Making handrails

To make a handrail, you will need a rectangular or round piece of different lengths:

corresponding to the span, if its length is small.
the span length can be divided into 2-3 parts for ease of manufacture and installation of the fence.

For spiral staircase the workpiece must be rounded by turning or the length divided into many elements in order to then connect them using the adhesive method. Only the end of the handrail can be rounded.

Processing of workpieces:

We grind square beams, round and smooth the corners. The width of the railing should be convenient for gripping with a brush, the average is 6 cm. The rectangular blank can be given a relief: carve grooves along the beam to make it easier to grip, decorate them with small details, but everything should be smooth, without sharp corners and burrs.
To obtain a round handrail, we turn a square-section blank with cut edges on a lathe. You can add a slight relief, but it should be smooth.

There is another way to make handrails - gluing boards, if not suitable material. To do this, take boards of the same length, glue them together and, after the glue has completely dried, process the resulting semi-finished product using the methods listed above.

Step 5. Attaching the balusters to the steps

Installation of balusters on a wooden staircase can be done in two ways:

Self-tapping screws and bolts.
Glue method.

We will not consider the second option due to its dubious effectiveness; masters use it in special cases. You will definitely need glue if the railing was made from separate fragments that need to be joined.

Before proceeding with installation, markings are made on the steps where the balusters will go. The master tells more about this process in the video:

To attach the balusters to the handrails, you will need screws or self-tapping screws 80 mm long, 10 mm in diameter and washers.

For fastening you need:

Drill a hole for the screw in the step according to the markings.
Prepare the same hole in the baluster.
Place a washer on the screw and drive it from the bottom of the step.
Attach and secure the stand.

The upper and lower end posts are attached in the same way with a screw, but welded to the embedded part on the landing.

When the installation of the balusters is completed, the guide is attached to them with clamps at the level of the handrail. Appropriate marks are made on the posts with a pencil along which the cut will be made.

To avoid damaging the secured wood, wooden pads should be installed under the clamps.

Cuts according to the marks can be made on a miter saw; other tools will not give an even cut at the desired angle.

This process can be clearly seen in the video:

After installing the balusters, we prepare the handrail. Using the previously installed guide, we measure the angle of contact between the handrail and the outer post, and cut it off on the prepared product. Then we make a groove under mounting strip. We take its width as the diameter of the ends of the balusters, and its height as 5–10 mm. We attach the plank to the balusters fixed with clamps and a beam using self-tapping screws, recessing the head into the material of the plank.

Using a jigsaw, we cut out a recess in the handrail for the bar. It will have a depth of 5–10 mm and a width equal to the width of the slats attached to the balusters. How to do this, look at the video:

All that remains is to fix the handrail on the rail. To do this, we launch the fastening elements from the bottom of the rail, attracting the prepared product with a little force. The stair railing is ready! We invite you to watch a short video summary.

Relatively recently, new options for garden fences made of polycarbonate have appeared. The well-proven material is now used in the production of fencing. This fence has a very simple installation and a number of advantageous advantages compared to standard fences.

Example of a polycarbonate fence

Thanks to its excellent operational characteristics the use of such a fence is quite relevant both for urban development conditions and as a country fence.
There are two types of polycarbonate: cellular and monolithic. Each of them has its own strength characteristics:

Cellular is characterized by its relatively light weight and special structure, which allows the use of polycarbonate for the manufacture of lightweight fences;
Monolithic, in turn, has greater thickness and, accordingly, has a heavier weight. However, this type can withstand high wind loads well, which makes it preferable in regions with difficult weather conditions.

Like the construction of any other fence, the installation of a polycarbonate fence with your own hands begins with the installation of supports.

Installation diagram for fence posts

As a rule, concrete or metal profile pipes are chosen, which are installed in pre-drilled wells.

If manufactured concrete pillar, a special formwork is made for it or an asbestos or plastic pipe acts as this, which is carefully removed after the concrete has set;
Metal supports must be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion solution, and a crushed stone cushion is poured into the wells.

The next step should be the manufacture of a frame, which is impossible to do without. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the sheets will move or simply be torn off by gusts of wind.

The fact is that polycarbonate does not have sufficient rigidity, which is why additional reinforcement with a metal profile or corner is required.

Polycarbonate fence option

As a rule, the design is made in the form of three guides, the distance between which should be about 0.5–1.0 m. In some cases metallic profile run on the sides of each polycarbonate sheet. This not only gives extra strength to the fence, but also provides a more attractive appearance.

The polycarbonate itself is already mounted on the frame, and there are some installation nuances that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Features of installation and fastening

Even a beginner in construction can install a polycarbonate fence with his own hands, however, during installation it is necessary to take into account some factors due to the characteristics of the material.

The last stage of working with polycarbonate is removing protective film and material design additional elements. For these purposes, you can use decorative elements made of stone or install additional lighting. Looks particularly advantageous.

Types of polycarbonate fences

Polycarbonate goes well with almost any type of material, with the possible exception of wood. This is due to the peculiarity of the characteristics: both are distinguished by their ability to expand under the influence environment.

Therefore, such a combination can lead to bending of the polycarbonate and loss appearance the entire fence. However, there are many other poles that are quite suitable for installation.

Which option to choose directly depends on the size of your budget, since the cost of materials varies quite a lot. Most budget options pillars are made of metal and concrete, brick and stone will cost a little more.

Example of metal fence posts

Why choose polycarbonate for fencing?

It’s worth mentioning right away that a polycarbonate fence is not shock-resistant enough, but the quality is quite acceptable.

If such a fence is installed in compliance with the technology and heavy stones are not deliberately thrown at it, then it will stand for quite a long time.

Polycarbonate is available in transparent and translucent versions, which makes this material extremely convenient for use in the country.

The material allows sunlight to pass through unhindered, while filtering out ultraviolet radiation that is harmful to plants;
Transparent polycarbonate is used if plants need a lot of light, translucent - to create partial shade;
Another use case transparent material- when a good overview of the area behind the fence is required, for example, when fencing car parks;
A translucent fence, on the contrary, will hide your area from prying eyes.

The following advantage of polycarbonate is especially relevant for summer cottages: this material absorbs sound waves due to its cellular structure, providing reliable sound insulation of the area behind the fence. No less effectively, such a fence protects the area from dust.
In accordance with its manufacturing technology, polycarbonate is produced in various color scheme and does not require additional processing. In addition, plastic plugs, corners and other elements produced for this fence also have a wide variety of colors.

Such a variety of tinted solutions allows us to produce original fence, which will carry not only a functional load, but will also become decorative element surrounding landscape. In addition, there is a significant saving of both money and time, since the material does not require additional painting.

Example of a polycarbonate fence with forged elements

Polycarbonate is practically not exposed to the environment, the material is not afraid of moisture, does not mold and does not corrode.

Tolerates temperature changes well (at correct installation), excellent resistance to wind loads and long-term exposure to sunlight.

In addition, the material is absolutely not susceptible to the negative effects of insects. These properties of polycarbonate distinguish it from other types of fencing.

Polycarbonate is also quite flexible and can bend in the desired direction, which allows you to install fences of various shapes. For example, if the fence is planned to be made in the form of a semicircle, it is not at all difficult to make the necessary structure from polycarbonate.