Types of bathhouse structures in a summer cottage. Do-it-yourself country bathhouse. Photo: original baths

If you want to have a pleasant time at your dacha, then you definitely need a bathhouse. A small do-it-yourself bathhouse, built on the site, will save both money and square meters if you don’t have a lot of free space to build a bathhouse. In this article we will talk about how to design and how to build a small-sized bathhouse with your own hands.

Determining the size of a small bath

The size of the bathhouse should be determined depending on the number of people who will regularly visit it at one time. If your family consists of 2–4 people, then you can get by budget option this building. In this case, the length of the bath will be 6 m, the height will be 2 m, and the width will be 2.2 m. There should be four separate rooms inside. Each of them will perform its own function and have a certain size. For example, each room will have a certain size. The width of the bathhouse is 2.2 m, and the length is:

  • dressing room 1300 mm;
  • rest room –2100 mm;
  • shower –1000 mm;
  • steam room – 1600 mm.

For the steam room and shower room, it will be necessary to perform separate calculations for the area, because shelves must be placed in the steam room, and a tray must be placed in the shower room.

A small bathhouse should be built in the usual sequence. The construction rules for its construction are no different from those by which other buildings are erected.

Construction of the foundation

The construction of each building begins with the construction of a foundation. To determine which foundation to lay as the base of a bathhouse, first determine the quality of the soil on which it will be laid. If the soil is hard enough and dry, then you can build a simplified foundation. To do this, lay flat stones along the intended perimeter. Next, fill the inside of the foundation with similar stones. The cracks should be filled with clay and compacted. Lay a layer of wooden beams pre-treated with hot bitumen on top. You can, in fact, not use clay. To do this, you can make a waterproofing layer that will cover the laid stones.

As a rule, a columnar foundation is preferably chosen for a bathhouse. For these purposes, you can use stone, ready-made concrete pipes, bricks, or asbestos concrete pipes, the interior of which is filled with concrete.

Another option is to install the bathhouse on wooden, metal or concrete piles. However, in this situation, you will need to take care of the thermal insulation of the floor.

Strip foundation is the most common and reliable. To build it, you will need to dig a trench and make a cushion of crushed stone and wet compacted sand. Afterwards you should tie the reinforcement and pour concrete mortar. For the waterproofing layer, you can use roofing felt.

If the soil is dominated by sand and the groundwater is very high, then reinforced concrete block-type structures should be used to construct the base of the bathhouse. For a mini-sized bathhouse, it will be enough to use ten such blocks, the dimensions of which are 20x20x40 cm.

After the foundation is ready, install the frame of the bath house and build its walls, then the partitions dividing the dressing room. The rest room and shower should be insulated with a mixture of sawdust and expanded clay. The insulation should be covered with polystyrene sheets, after which the walls should be covered with clapboard. To prevent rodents from entering the bathhouse, you can add broken glass. Before laying the lining, it is necessary to carry out heat and vapor barrier, as well as insulate the walls with mineral wool. After that, cover them with clapboard.

Make the walls in the shower room from polystyrene or galvanized steel. These materials are more durable than wooden lining; they are better able to withstand changes in temperature and moisture.

Water supply and drainage. How to do it right?

If you are setting up a bathhouse for your summer cottage, but you do not have a pressure water supply system, you can organize a gravity supply of water. To do this, it is necessary to build a structure that will consist of:

  • two galvanized tanks (50 l);
  • hose

Tank with hot water in relation to the cold one you need to set it half a meter lower. Attach one end of the hose to the bottom of the cold water tank, and connect the other to the top of the hot water tank. Water circulation will be possible due to the temperature difference in the pipes. To organize the water supply to the shower, the tanks must be connected with a separate pipe. A mixer must be installed at the end of the pipe.

To organize the drainage of water, sewer pipes are installed, which will drain the wastewater into a drainage hole, previously dug and equipped. For rapid gravity drainage, pipes must be laid with a sufficient slope.

Heating system installation

The water in the bathhouse is heated by the stove, which is located in the steam room. In addition, a heating element can be used for this, which can be purchased at a specialized store.

If you decide to heat water with a stove, then install a U-shaped pipe at the hottest point of the stove and run it around the base of the chimney. The water supply should be on the body, and the outlet should be 5 cm above it.

If you decide to use a heating element to heat water, then install it under the cold water tank, connecting it to the system with stainless steel pipes and hoses.

Lighting and ventilation device

In a small bathhouse, ventilation is easy to arrange. To do this, on the wall opposite front door, make a hole that will be easy to open and close with a flap.

To organize lighting in small sauna It will be enough to install several halogen lamps with a heat-resistant housing. To reduce the voltage from 220 to 12 V, use a small transformer. Now yours small sauna ready!

Features of a single outdoor mini-bath

To assemble a bathhouse for one person, you will need to purchase lightweight insulated panels, which are a frame made of beams covered with thin boards. The standard frame size is 185x60 cm. To do this, you will need a beam whose cross-section is 1–1.5 cm and 3x6 cm. To insulate the bathhouse and provide a vapor barrier, fill the panels with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. WITH inside the material is sheathed with special aluminum foil and polyethylene film. As for the outside, it is covered with glassine or roofing felt. The panel can be covered with clapboard.

In one of the panels you should make a door measuring 160x60 cm. Install a small window in it, preferably with double glass. The bathhouse must be airtight; door locks at the bottom and top ensure this. At the bottom of one of the panels, on the side where the heater will be installed, make a ventilation hole with a plug.

To build a single bathhouse, you need to assemble the structure and, most importantly, ensure its heat and waterproofing.

To build a steam room with an area of ​​1.8x1.3 m, you will need 10 panels for the walls and 2 for the roof. Fill the seams with batting and cover them with wooden planks on both sides. To protect the ceiling from precipitation, cover it from the street with a triple layer of roofing felt. If you will use the bathhouse only during the warm season, then you should not insulate the floor. If you plan to use the bathhouse year-round, pour a strip foundation and insulate it. To heat the steam room up to 90°C you can use an electric stove closed type, having a power of 3 kW. Place a metal bucket with stones on the stove and turn it on for several hours. Then proceed to bath procedures.

Small indoor sauna

You can also set up a small steam room in your home, for example, in the bathroom. This can be achieved in two ways. In the first case, you will need to install a removable shelf on two bars. The height from the floor should be no more than one meter. The bars are secured to the wall with reliable anchors. Above the bathtub, the height of the shelf should be between 400–600 mm.

To climb onto the shelf, you will need to make several steps or a ladder using rubber bearings. Tie the ladder to the shelf with twine. The shelf width should be 600 mm. This steam room is heated by an electric stove. It can be installed on a special stand, for example, above a washbasin. As a heater, use a basin or metal bucket, which should be filled with stones and placed on the stove.

Another option is to create a sitz steam bath on your bathtub. It will be covered with removable wooden panels. The shelves will be used as a seat, and you can rest your feet on the durable panels. To make the room remind you of a bathhouse, cover the walls and ceiling above the bathtub with clapboard or install removable panels. They can be installed and removed without special effort. Heating is performed by an electric stove with a container of hot stones placed on it.

Choose your version of a small bathhouse, plan your actions and get started!

Video

Bath minimum dimensions built in life-size part 2 \ Small bathhouse

Photo

Since ancient times, the bathhouse has been glorified and was an integral part of Russian folklore. It is often called a place to cleanse the body and soul. It’s especially nice to have your own steam room summer cottage or in a private house, which is quite easy to build with your own hands without outside help.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse is a place with a special comfort and aura, which requires careful compliance with the conditions, rules and stages of construction. On modern market There is a wide variety of materials, thanks to which the construction of a steam room can be carried out very quickly and quite cheaply.

To build it yourself, you need to think through several points.

  • Place of the future bathhouse. Its location should not be chosen at random. There are a number of instructions and tips that will help you decide on the territory for future construction.
  • What will the foundation be laid from, what shape will it be.
  • Dimensions of the building. Masters advise calculating the area in such a way that each person has approximately 3–4 square meters. m. For this reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the approximate number of people who will visit the bathhouse.

  • Material, quantity, purchase.
  • Select the type of heating (electric boiler or traditionally - wood). A traditional Russian bath requires a real stove. Modern steam rooms are increasingly equipped with an electric heater, which quickly warms the room to a given temperature, and also does not require constant maintenance of the fire.
  • Finishing and accessories. It's always nice to be in a beautiful and clean room. This also applies to the bathhouse. Exterior decoration plays an important role. High-quality and skillful design will always contribute to complete physical relaxation and peace of mind. Don’t forget about bath accessories (buckets, brooms, hats and others). Of course, without them you can have a good steam and wash, but there are special occasions in life when “bath romance” is simply necessary.

You can start work only when the owner has decided on all the stages. Otherwise, this process may drag on for a long time without exact dates to the end.

Experienced masters in the construction of baths advise carefully thinking through all the details and not rushing during construction. Especially when you do it yourself. It takes a lot of effort to make this place truly a real bathhouse, and not just a room where you can wash yourself.

Where to place it?

The location of the bathhouse is one of the most important issues. The convenience and comfort of using it depends on this. It is also important where it is planned. Many people think that this could be any plot in a country house, the basement of a private house, the roof or basement of a high-rise building.

There is a large number of rules, which are primarily aimed at the safety of a person and his home (if it is near the future bathhouse).

  • It is advisable to make the bathhouse a separate building, since poorly done waterproofing can dampen adjacent rooms. If the area of ​​the plot allows, then it is best to place it 8–10 m from the main house. If this is not possible, then you can make it in the form of an extension to the house. Very convenient when it is in the backyard.
  • Special attention attention should be paid to drainage and water supply. The bathhouse should be located at least 25–30 m from the well or borehole. This is due to the fact that the steam room is a direct point of contamination of water, which should not flow along the ground, but into a specially designated drain.
  • It’s good when there is a body of water 30–40 m away. It is not worth placing closer, as a flood may occur and the structure will be flooded.

  • It is not recommended to locate this building next to a road. This regulation is more about ethics than safety. It's not always nice to be seen strangers in the nude.
  • The bathhouse should not border on nearby areas, so as not to cause discomfort to neighbors when the owners decide to have a good rest and take a steam bath.
  • It is advisable that the doors face south and the windows are located on the west side. These tips are related to weather conditions and human psychology. They say that the wind from the north is much colder, so there is a high chance of catching a bad cold. As for the windows, the rays of the setting sun will help you relax and get

A bathhouse is a room with a high temperature inside, then, unfortunately, cases of fire are not uncommon. In this regard, the choice of location for its location should depend on the material from which the foundation and load-bearing walls are made. According to the rules fire safety, if the building is made of non-combustible building materials, then it can be located 5–6 m from the living space (house). If this is a whole tree or part of the steam room has wooden base or finishing, then the distance increases to 8–12 m.

Don’t forget that there are neighboring houses and buildings in the neighboring territory. Their location must also be taken into account, since failure to comply with the standards can lead to unpleasant proceedings, and, as a result, the demolition of the installed bathhouse.

Projects

Not every person can boast of a big house and a huge land plot. But whether you have a modest or large property, you always want to have your own bathhouse or at least a mini-steam room.

If there is sufficient territory for development, you can create a standard bathhouse, which should have a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room (sometimes a swimming pool is made there) and a shower or washing room. There you can wash off the remnants of soap and shampoo, or prepare your body for the heat (people take a warming shower with warm water). Owners of a truly large area can equip the bathhouse with a room for a jacuzzi, massage, billiards and others.

But in a small area, you can easily combine several rooms for construction (dressing room and rest room, dressing room and shower). It is worth noting that this does not make the comfort and coziness in the bathhouse disappear.

Depending on the quadrature you can choose perfect solution. For example, if you can build a bathhouse measuring 3 square meters. m, then a small steam room (about 1.8 sq. m) and a dressing room (1.2 sq. m) can fit there. This space may be enough for one or two people to visit without much discomfort.

The construction area is 6.5 sq. m will fit the same number of rooms, but they will be more spacious. It is better to allocate 3.5 square meters for the steam room. m, and the rest of the space is for the dressing room. Some owners place a small shower in the corner.

If there are 9 or 10 sq. m, you can plan the territory in a more interesting way. It is better to allocate 5 square meters for the “hottest place”. m, which can comfortably accommodate 2-3 people. The rest of the room can be easily divided into a place for changing clothes and a small shower stall.

Bathhouse measuring 12–15 square meters. m is much easier to equip, since you don’t need to cut out every meter. Here you can already give more square footage to the steam room in order to go there with small company(3-4 people), or combine it with a washing room (1 sq. m) and make a large lounge with a table for drinking tea. It is also easy to divide the room into 3 separate rooms: steam room, shower room and dressing room.

When you have room to spread out, it's much easier to share space. It all depends on the preferences of the bathhouse owner. If he likes big companies, then of course it is better to focus on the size of the steam room, because you can relax in the house after all the procedures. But when privacy and bathhouse romance are more valued, then it’s worth considering a relaxation room. There a person can sit in a chair with hot tea, think about life, have a heart-to-heart conversation with a friend, or read a book.

Materials

It is best to do the selection and purchase of materials for building a bathhouse yourself, as you will be able to check its quality before installation. The market is crowded various options. Thanks to this, you can easily build a beautiful, high-quality and budget-friendly steam room with a waiting room. Most masters claim that the material from which the structure of the bathhouse is made (its foundation) does not in any way affect the bathing procedures. In this regard, more attention should be paid to the choice of the internal component, namely the material that will be inside the steam room.

In the minds of most people, a bathhouse can only be made of wood or stone. But it is not so. Materials are improved in their qualities and are also combined depending on the region of residence.

For the southern regions, it is not recommended to use timber or wood for the frame, as there are many pests there (bark beetle, borer beetle, longhorned beetle and others). High temperature and humidity cause mold and mildew to appear. Therefore, the service life is very short - 2–4 years. For the southern part of Russia, the use of stone or brick is recommended. Most often, wood concrete blocks, polycarbonate (for a summer bath), aerated concrete, and sandwich panels are used there.

For northern regions, wood is more preferable. Due to its natural features, it does not need to be treated with chemicals against pests. For this reason, the bathhouse will be more environmentally friendly.

If it was decided to make frame bath made of wood, then for the walls you will need directly wooden beams (the quantity is purchased based on the project) or wooden sleepers (a fairly cheap building material), insulation and sheathing material. These could be OSB boards. They are pressed sawdust with resin, wax and boric acid.

For the internal cladding, pre-prepared boards are taken, and for the external cladding, lining or eurolining is used. Sometimes (to save money) people use wooden pallets. Thanks to their shape, they can be used to build fairly strong walls. Of course, they will need to be insulated. This option is the most successful for a summer steam room. To build a frame and walls in a brick or stone bath you will need sand-lime brick, shell rock or quarry. Cinder blocks are being used more and more often. As for the external and internal decoration, the materials can be different.

Sometimes, when possible, skilled craftsmen make a base from a metal container. Construction is progressing very quickly. But there are some nuances here (it is necessary to cut holes for the door, make an additional partition for the steam room itself, and others). All walls are also carefully insulated and sheathed.

The interior decoration of the ceiling in the dressing room can be made of wood species such as alder, linden or pine. If we talk about the ceiling in the steam room, then experts recommend installing lining (it tolerates high temperatures better). It should be from a tree species that does not emit strong-smelling resins (spruce, pine, fir). The best option for this there will be linden, alder, cedar. Under no circumstances should chipboard or fibreboard be used. When heated, they release substances that harm the human body.

Wall insulation also requires special attention. As a rule, a bathhouse is insulated only on the inside, but they can also add an outer layer of this material (into the frame of the building itself). If the building is made of log wood, then the insulation is placed on a lattice frame (lathing). To do this, use mineral wool or other organic insulation materials. In the case of stone or brick bath the same one is taken mineral wool, but it is laid in a thicker layer (5–6 cm).

In the steam room itself, after the insulation layer, a vapor barrier must be laid. For these purposes, thick foil or a special self-adhesive three-layer film can be used. It consists of a polyvinyl chloride mesh with two layers of film with small holes for steam removal. For the floor in the steam room, the same wood that was used for covering the walls and ceiling is suitable, and tiles are usually laid in the dressing room. It is convenient to wash and disinfect against fungus and mold.

Important areas

A bathhouse is not just a steam room, but also a place for rest and relaxation. In order to fully restore strength and spiritually cleanse yourself, there must be such areas as a steam room, a change room (dressing room), and a shower. Of course, when the territory is small, there is not enough space for all sorts of extensions, but you can always find a way out. For example, combining functional areas in one room.

A bathhouse without a dressing room is uncomfortable to use, especially if the house is located 10–15 meters away. It is necessary so that a person can calmly undress and prepare for the procedure. This room also plays a big role in the thermal balance. The change house helps not to “lose” the heat from the steam room, and also blocks the path of cold air flows in the winter. On top of that, all bath accessories are stored here: buckets, ladles, various gels and shampoos, bathrobes, caps to protect hair from overheating, slippers and much more. Without this room, using the bathhouse will be uncomfortable and inconvenient. If the size is sufficient, you can put a small table there to drink herbal tea, dry and cool down before going outside.

If we talk about a shower, then according to doctors’ recommendations it must be there. Before entering a hot room, you need to prepare your body - take warm shower. It will be easier for the body to tolerate sudden changes in temperature, and the pores will open much faster for active sweating and further cleansing. This area does not have to be large (in the form of a shower stall or an installed “standing bath”). One square meter is enough, which can be hung with a curtain. If it is possible to make a large and full-fledged bathhouse, it can be equipped with a separate room for a sauna or a jacuzzi. It all depends on the preferences of the owner.

The most important thing when building a bathhouse with your own hands is to make it as comfortable as possible for your use.

Installation technology

The process of building a bathhouse itself is not difficult if you have a clear plan of action. To obtain high-quality and beautiful building, there are a number of steps that need to be followed step by step.

  • Prepare the area for future construction work. This includes clearing the ground of debris, digging out bushes (if any), removing stone boulders, and leveling the surface (it is necessary to remove earthen mounds or fill deep holes). They also make markings for pouring the future foundation.
  • Foundation. It can be different in its configuration and type of installation. Masters recommend columnar or pile.
  • Construction of walls and installation of roof. At this stage, walls are built, insulation is laid, holes are made for doors and windows, a roof is built (it is necessary to leave an opening for the chimney).

  • Interior decoration of the premises. It is done based on the chosen style. Doors are installed and windows are installed. The room is prepared to accommodate the necessary elements for the steam room and the bathhouse as a whole.
  • Installation of a stove and tiered benches in the steam room.
  • Arrangement of furniture and accessories.

By strictly adhering to the work plan, you will be able to build good bath. Experienced builders advise setting deadlines for each stage in advance so that construction does not drag on for many months or years.

Foundation

In the case where a small bathhouse is planned, it is more expedient and cheaper to make a regular strip foundation. The most important thing is to provide good thermal insulation, otherwise the floor will take heat from the room. As a result, condensation may form, and then a number of unpleasant consequences.

Creating a foundation includes several stages.

  • Before construction, the area must be cleared and marked. As a rule, 10–15 cm of soil is removed. The boundaries for development are marked with wooden stakes (15–20 cm). A fishing line or twine is stretched between the pegs. The evenness of the corners is checked (they should be exactly 90º).
  • Next, the soil is dug out along the marked trajectory to a depth of 60–70 cm (the soil can be thrown into the center, it will still be useful). A layer of sand 10–15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the resulting trench and compacted. Sometimes, for greater density, it is slightly moistened with water. After the sand, a layer of granite stone is poured or brick is laid in one layer. This will be the supporting frame for the sheathing, which is made from a thick metal rod and is also laid in one piece.

  • Formwork is made from wooden boards. It will serve as a form for pouring cement mortar. In this regard, the boards should be 40–50 cm above ground level.
  • The filling solution is prepared in certain proportions: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and 3 parts small crushed stone. The consistency should resemble sour cream. It must be filled immediately. It is advisable to initially calculate the required amount, otherwise you will end up with a foundation with poorly connected layers.
  • For further work You will need a construction vibrator, which you can rent. With its help, you need to “shake” the poured cement mortar so that all the air comes out and the voids disappear.
  • The next step is to level the top layer. After 5–6 days, you can remove the wooden sides. The foundation is left in this form until completely dry and bonded. Craftsmen recommend waiting 20–25 days before continuing construction. During this time, the foundation must be watered, otherwise cracks may form due to uneven drying.
  • Do not forget about special openings for communications (sewer pipes, electrical wiring). At the pouring stage, the pipes should already be in the planned location.

If you plan to build large bathhouse, and the site has a complex lumpy and uneven shape, it is better to install the foundation on piles. They come in several types: some are curled, while others are “screwed” into the ground. Both options are suitable for a bath.

Before its installation on the site, similar preparatory work, as with a strip foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the issue of ground freezing in winter. Usually this data is verified against SNiP. Based on the information received, a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 3–5 mm is purchased.

Its length should be the sum of the following quantities:

  • length of the freezing layer of earth;
  • 40–50 cm for “sinking” of piles;
  • 50 cm above ground level.

To make it easier to insert the pipe, it is sharpened. Each element is installed in the ground at a distance of 1 m from each other along the perimeter of the building area. It is very important that the piles stand level. To do this, each pipe is leveled using a level (ruler with liquid and scale).

A square “hat” (625 sq. cm) must be welded onto each pile. Holes are made at its ends for installing a reinforced concrete frame. All metal elements must be coated with a solution that prevents corrosion. After this, a layer of sand and gravel is laid and compacted and everything is filled with cement mortar using strip foundation technology. After installing the foundation, you can begin installing the walls.

Walls

According to their species diversity, walls are:

  • frame;
  • brick;
  • from foam block;
  • from a log of wood.

To install frame wooden walls, it is necessary to install the base on a grillage (there must be a waterproofing film under it). After this, racks are mounted at the corners of the future bathhouse. They are fastened with metal corners, and for greater strength, jibs (beams standing at an angle of 45º) are screwed to them.

A wooden beam is installed every half a meter along the entire perimeter with obligatory oblique struts. Do not forget about door and window openings that do not need to be blocked. Between themselves vertical beams fastened horizontally along one line. After the frame of the walls is ready, they can be sheathed. But before that, all the wood is covered with impregnation to prevent rot and mold (black mold is especially dangerous).

Next, insulation, hydrobarrier film and facing material are laid. If brick was chosen for the construction of walls, then it is better to take red. It has the most suitable properties - it does not “pull out” heat, as white brick does.

As a rule, the wall is made with two layers of brick. Work begins from the corners, since the level will be set from them. The layer of fastening cement should not exceed 2 cm. For ease of laying, craftsmen advise stretching the fishing line as a level. A reinforced concrete lintel is laid in place of the future window and door. Next, the walls are built up to the required height.

The construction of walls made of foam blocks is carried out in the same way as with bricks. The only difference is that every 4 rows you need to lay metal mesh. It will give greater rigidity and strength to the wall.

The most interesting, from a work point of view, will be the installation of walls made of logs. It is very important that all trunks have the same diameter (a small error of 1–3 cm is allowed). Before installation, each of them is inspected for defects (knots, bark remaining), and also treated with an antiseptic. Next, “holes” of 1 radius are made on each element. For the very first trunks that are placed at the base, one side is made straight so that they do not “roll.” The further timber is laid like a puzzle. The corners are bound with rope, starting from the floor itself, and all joints between the bars are laid with insulation in the form of a tape.

Roof

Following the instructions for building a bathhouse, the next step after installing the walls will be installing the roof. This process will not take much effort and time.

There are 3 large groups of roofs:

  • flat;
  • single-pitched;
  • gable.

The remaining species are a variety typical groups. Professionals advise installing pitched roof for small baths. If the building is of impressive size, then the functional side of the roof is already selected here (for example, the 2nd floor for a recreation area, made from an attic).

If the walls are built of brick, the first layer (before laying the beams) will be a layer of roofing material as waterproofing. Next is mounted wooden frame along the perimeter of the walls using anchors. It will serve as a support for all further structures that make up the “backbone” of the roof. A wooden sheathing of the chosen shape is made on top. Insulation is “inserted” into it and a vapor barrier sheet must be placed. After this work is completed, you can proceed to the external and internal cladding. Inside, it is better to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard or prepared boards.

Floor

The floors in the bathhouse must be given due attention, since people have direct and frequent contact with them.

Like walls, floors come in 3 types:

  • wooden;
  • brick;
  • concrete.

Concrete

Brick is undesirable as a floor due to its physical properties (low heat transfer). It gets very hot and can cause serious burns to your feet. The most commonly used, readily available and durable material is concrete. But you should understand that such a floor is very cold and requires an additional layer of insulation on top.

This option is very easy to install.

  • First, sand is poured onto the finished foundation (at least 15 cm). Next, crushed stone or gravel is laid in a uniform layer of 10 cm. Do not forget about the drain, under which you need to leave a place and remove the pipe, and it must go into the drain or septic tank.
  • After laying the “pillow”, a primary layer of concrete of 5–7 cm is poured. When it dries, you should begin laying insulation (mineral wool, perlite, foam) and waterproofing. A reinforced mesh is placed on top of them.
  • When the mesh is secured, the floor can be poured. Masters advise taking ready mixture, since it is difficult to do it yourself. It is recommended to start working from the corners towards the door. As soon as the floor is dry, you need to start laying flooring. This can be tile, laminate and other materials.

Tree

The most practical and comfortable floors for a bathhouse are wooden ones. They come in two types.

  • Those that pass water through themselves into the drain hole (lattice or leaking). This is the simplest and cheapest flooring option. No insulating material is needed for their installation. They are made in the same way as a regular floor, only they leave a gap between the boards being laid and the floor with a hole for drainage of 5–10 cm. For this, an additional frame is installed, on which it is mounted wood covering. The most important thing is to properly treat the wood to prevent rotting and dampness. As a rule, such a floor is made in the steam room itself.
  • Stationary floors (not leaking). Usually they are done in a dressing room or relaxation room, but they can also be done in a steam room. First, drainage is done so that there is a complete drainage of water. Next, identical preparation of the floor is done, as in the case with concrete. Then the insulation with waterproofing is laid, and a finished wooden floor is laid on top of it. It is very important to coat all cracks and joints with sealant.

Wiring

It is worth immediately noting that only a person who has knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering can do the wiring themselves. It will be very difficult for a beginner in this matter, even if he follows the step-by-step instructions.

Installation of electrical wiring must be carried out in a strict and clear sequence.

  • Grounding everyone metal structures, housings of electrical appliances or gaskets to protect yourself and people from electric shock.
  • Connecting the power cable. In rooms where there is no contact with water, it is laid in special plastic boxes. Where there is water or steam, it is laid in PVC pipes.
  • Cable distribution in rooms with no access to water. The wire is laid from the distribution box through the same plastic gutters. Next, a through hole is made in the wall, where the lamp will be in another room, and connected to it. It also connects to the switch. A metal sleeve must be inserted into the passage for the wire in the wall and filled with a non-flammable composition.

  • Supplying electricity to the steam room. It is worth noting that the presence of a distribution box and switches inside it is strictly prohibited. In this room it is recommended to use low voltage lighting. It is also necessary to reduce the voltage of the electricity flow; for this, step-down transformers are used. The cable that will be inserted into the steam room through a hole in the wall must be heat-resistant. The hole in the wall is processed in the same way as above. It is very important to mark all the cores in the distribution box, otherwise if the power supply breaks down it will be difficult to find the cause.
  • Installation of sockets. Their installation is carried out in a similar way. The most important thing is that any socket is at least 60 cm from the sink and shower stall. Also, each of them should have a protective plastic cover, which closes them from moisture.

When connecting electrical wiring to the bathhouse, you should select a cable In accordance with the equipment being installed, its power and electricity consumption must be taken into account. All work must be carried out in rubber shoes, in a dry room and in rubber gloves.

Finishing work

Today it is very profitable to do finishing work yourself. If you order this service from a company, you can end up with a fairly large sum. Finishing work is a set of construction activities aimed at the external and internal improvement of the building. The material is selected in advance. Its choice should be approached very seriously and responsibly, since under the influence of heat and water it can emit odors or change shape.

Experts advise doing the work in parallel, and not in parts (first the facade, then the steam room, and so on). But there must be a certain sequence. First the ceiling is finished, then the walls, and then the floor. At the time of finishing repairs, the windows and door should already be installed (at least in rough form).

Internal (as well as external) finishing is carried out in a number of stages that must be followed.

  • All purchased material must undergo acclimatization. For example, if a tree is chosen for work, then it needs to rest indoors for several days.
  • Installation of the frame on which the cladding will be applied.
  • Laying insulation.
  • Waterproofing.
  • Installation of panels (wood, lining and others).

Similar work is carried out on the outside.

Exterior design

The external decor of the bathhouse is as important as the internal one. It’s always nice when a house and a steam room built nearby are in harmony with each other, creating a unified style for the site.

How and what to make the outer lining of a bathhouse from depends on the following factors:

  • General style. The harmony and combination of buildings will always please the owner;
  • Sheathing must perform certain functions: protection from weather conditions, insulation internal heat, curbing cold air flows.

The walls of a classic Russian bathhouse are usually made according to old traditions - solid logs. This is truly one of the most cozy and pleasant designs. Such walls do not require additional finishing, but sometimes they are laid along the seams rope rope, which is soaked in resin.

Today there is a large selection of materials that can be used to beautifully and quickly decorate the facade of a bathhouse. This can be lining, siding (metal, plastic), fiber cement panels and others.

The most common type of cladding is panel siding. It is recommended to choose vinyl or wood. They best suit the theme of the bathhouse. They must be mounted on a specially installed timber sheathing with laid layers of insulation. Sometimes it is secured using a metal profile. Next, it is installed in a circle, joint to joint.

The second most popular material for exterior design is lining. It is convenient because it has slats of different widths (they can be selected to suit any structure), which can be made of plastic, MDF or wood. Last option are chosen most often. The most important thing is that all boards are well treated with a special solution that protects the material from dampness and rotting. Lining made of plastic (vinyl) will also last a long time, but it fades quite quickly due to direct sunlight. But its advantage is that it is not afraid of moisture and sudden temperature changes. The lining is installed in the same way as siding panels.

If the bathhouse is built of brick, but you want it to look like a wooden one, then in this case you can make the cladding from a block house. This is finishing lumber, which is similar to eurolining. It is made using a special technology - 4 boards are cut in a circle from a round tree trunk. The result is boards that are perfectly smooth and flat on one side, and convex semicircular on the other. With their help, it is easy to create an imitation of a house built from a log.

Interior Design

Since childhood, every person has had the image of a simple Russian bathhouse in their head. As a rule, the interior of this room is entirely made of natural wood (alder, linden), wooden chairs with forged legs at the same table, homemade new brooms made of birch or oak hang on the walls, and most importantly, there is the smell of tree resin, steamed leaves, and soap.

To preserve the atmosphere of a real traditional Russian bath, it is best to purchase furniture made of wood(table, chairs, benches). It is very beautiful when it has carved elements. Homemade knitted or wicker mats are sometimes placed on the seats. They are made with bright patterns to add coziness and joy to the room.

It is advisable not to lay a carpet on the floor in the dressing room. Fungus and mold will multiply in it due to high humidity. It is best to use regular tiles or wooden boards treated with a special solution. Shelves on the walls will not be superfluous. They are also made from wood. It will perfectly fit beer mugs, a kettle or beautiful figures brownie. It all depends on the owner’s imagination.

The steam room should also be cozy. Typically, lighting with a birch bark lampshade is placed in the corners, and forged hooks are placed on the walls to hold ladles and buckets. Buckets can also be in ethnic style. They have carved handles or a metal rim in the middle. A decorative panel made of wood is very often installed along the upper rim of the ceiling. Ethnic ornaments, animals, bathing processes, and so on are carved on it.

The dressing room or relaxation room is also filled with accessories. They are often made independently, or found at flea markets or folk fairs. There you can easily find wooden spoons, bast shoes, carved figurines of brownies, paintings on birch bark and other accessories. With their help it is easy to add comfort and warmth to a given room.

An integral part of the interior of a Russian bathhouse is the smell. Thanks to him, a person relaxes as much as possible and rests completely (soul and body). Each room has its own scent. In the steam room it is the aroma of steamed oak or birch brooms. It’s good to put an aroma lamp in the change house, and change it every time to suit your mood.

Style

In the 21st century there is a huge variety of baths. Their main difference lies in the temperature of exposure to the human body, as well as the quantity and quality of steam in the room itself (steam room).

  • Russian bath. Steam heating temperature is 40º–75º, humidity is about 60%. Thanks to such conditions, the human body warms up qualitatively and deeply, and the high level of humidity helps the pores to quickly open and sweating to begin. The result is high-quality skin cleansing.
  • Hamam (Turkish bath). Here the temperature is slightly lower – 35º–60º, and the humidity is about 85–100%. The conditions in this steam room are more gentle. Thanks to this, you can spend quite a long time here and do various types of cosmetic procedures (massage, peeling and other procedures). The body warms up gradually, and the skin is constantly moist. In this way, the deep layers of the skin are “opened” and steamed.

  • Finnish sauna. The difference between this steam room is that rather high temperatures are used here (120º–150º), and the humidity level is very low (10–15%). In this regard, going to such a bathhouse has a number of contraindications and conditions for staying in it. There are often cases when a person’s skin becomes very dry or gets burned. But at the same time, the body warms up and relaxes very well.
  • Japanese water bath. This type of steam room is very specific. A person sits in a barrel of water, which heats up to 60º. The skin warms up and steams well, but under water it does not breathe. Due to this, profuse sweating occurs, toxins and waste are removed from the skin.

How to choose a boiler?

The heart of any sauna or steam room is a heating boiler or stove. Without it, in principle, the functioning of this premises cannot be carried out. The most important thing is that the heating boiler can heat up to a sufficient temperature, and therefore have good thermal power. Additionally, it is necessary that a person can regulate the heating level with noticeable intervals in temperature. All these parameters depend on the material from which the boiler is made, as well as on the proper selection of power and size of the steam room.

Bath boilers are made of metal. As a rule, this is ordinary or specially treated steel. In more expensive models, its thickness can be 1–1.5 cm. During long-term operation of such furnaces, so-called “metal fatigue” may occur. This phenomenon manifests itself in slight deformation of the shape. Because of this, the door for loading fuel may begin to jam, or the welding seams may “crawl.” For this reason, experts recommend using cast iron boilers. They are much stronger and have a longer service life.

The main function of the boiler is to heat the room as quickly as possible to the required temperature. This ability in many ways elevates it above a conventional brick stove. In turn, metal stoves can be conventional or long-burning. It is better to choose the second option, since such a boiler cools much more slowly and retains heat for a long time, and will also save on fuel.

When choosing a stove for a steam room, it is necessary to take into account its design features and human convenience. Each boiler has a door where firewood or coal is placed. In some models it is located inside the steam room. On the one hand, this is convenient, since there is no need to leave the room to increase the temperature. But at the same time, it is always humid in the steam room, and this makes the wood or coal damp. It turns out that the fuel is first dried in the oven, and only then it reaches the desired temperature. Plus, firewood and coal will accumulate shavings and debris, which can injure your steamed, tender feet.

The boiler must have a heater. Medium-sized stones are placed there (this could be pebbles brought from the sea). Since they lie on hot metal, they also warm up. During the bathing procedure, water is poured into it, and steam is generated, which is so necessary in the steam room.

The heater can be on top of the boiler or located on the side. The side option is better, since the water only gets on the stones. This type of steam is considered softer and more correct. It is ideal when this design (reminiscent of a forged lattice bucket) does not touch the walls of the boiler. This is explained by the fact that the stone maintains its temperature for a long time, so it can deform the adjacent wall of the heater, thereby shortening the service life of the boiler.

Most models have a special container where the water is heated. It is scooped up with a ladle and poured onto the stones to add heat to the room. It can be located on any side of the boiler, but it is best if it is hung on a pipe (chimney). This way the water will not boil, but will always be warm. Plus, the risk of scalding part of the body is reduced.

Particular attention should be paid to the weight and dimensions of the boiler. If the steam room is large, then it must correspond to the size of the room. If you do not prepare the floor in advance, it may simply collapse under its weight. Typically, the future location for the boiler is filled with concrete during the construction of the foundation. When the stove is small, it can be installed directly on the floor, but it is better to lay a layer of brick, since wood dries and becomes deformed due to high temperatures.

Listed above are the main reasons why some of the heat is lost from the boiler. If you clearly know this data, the calculations will be more accurate and correct. All this information is then plugged into the formula. It itself is very large, and without knowledge of physics and mathematics it will be difficult to calculate the correct answer. It is best to come to a specialist with known data. Usually in any store specializing in boilers and heating systems, there is always such a person.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is not to focus on price, but on the quality and characteristics of the product. Expensive does not mean good. It is worth knowing that if almost any part in the boiler breaks down, you will have to replace it entirely.

Even an experienced master in the field of construction and repair will not be able to build a bathhouse absolutely correctly. As in any other business, there are nuances and subtleties of the work, and they can only be learned from a person who is professionally involved in this matter.

The first thing that the masters advise is that the construction of a bathhouse is best carried out in a dry and warm period of the year. This is due to the fact that all solutions, putties and impregnations must dry completely. Otherwise, there is a risk of installing poorly treated wood, which will last only half of its intended life.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to create a detailed design of the future bathhouse. It must indicate the exact dimensions, a diagram of the pipes for drainage and water supply. For electrical wiring, it is better to make a separate drawing. Based on the plan, it will be easier to calculate the amount of material needed, and a novice builder will immediately understand what work he cannot do without additional help from professionals. He will be able to budget for the costs of outside support work.

If you want to build a comfortable and spacious bathhouse, but there is not much space on the site, then it can be built as an extension to the house. This way you can save on the “4th wall” and space.

In order for the bathhouse to last for a long time, experts advise ventilating it as often as possible. Thanks to this, wooden and metal coatings will dry and will not be susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.

Beautiful examples

  • This example indicates that even a small bathhouse can be beautiful and comfortable. There is a small steam room, and take a dip in cold water If it's hot, you can go outside. IN summer time A table and chairs can easily be placed nearby, where it will be pleasant to sit and drink tea under the moon and stars.
  • Shown here is a spacious steam room, where a friendly company can easily fit. Due to this size, there is room for a person to lie down at full height and be steamed with a bath broom, while other vacationers can sit quietly and relax.

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

  • choose a suitable project;
  • get acquainted with the stages of construction;
  • purchase construction material;
  • build a bathhouse and install all communications;
  • do the interior finishing and only then worry about it.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also standards that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

  1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
  2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
  3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window of the country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
  4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

To avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of a building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose optimal place for a bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

Material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made

A distance that directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building

The same buildings using wooden elements

Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to a lawsuit with a neighbor and the demolition or relocation of the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

  1. Frame bath.
  2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
  3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
  4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

  • Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
  • The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike a frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built at the dacha does not need insulation.
  • Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
  • Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

  • Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
  • Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
  • Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often for external cladding buildings are used OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

  • Natural debarked wood.
  • Edged timber.
  • Profiled timber.
  • Glued laminated timber.
  • Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

  • Brick (ceramic or silicate).
  • Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
  • Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks of fairly high quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of producing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For ceiling cladding, it is preferable to use steam rooms wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It is unlikely that anyone will do such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. IN wooden bath you need to make a sheathing into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Decoration Materials

Because the we're talking about about a bathhouse in the country, let’s not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for exterior finishing, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

Marking

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Type of foundation

Where is marking used and how is it done?

Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.

Tape

A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.

Columnar

This type of foundation can also often be found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden buildings on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.

Screw

It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it long ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to perform excavation, so the area will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope.

The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

  1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
  2. Level groundwater quite low.
  3. IN winter period The frosts are not very severe.
  4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

  • We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
  • It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
  • For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

  • You need to remove the fertile top layer of soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
  • As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
  • The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
  • Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
  • The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
  • Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

  • In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
  • Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with knitting wire.
  • The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
  • If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them; sleeves will help with this, as was done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
  • Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
  • The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If you are making a foundation for a wooden house, then you need to fix the foundation bolts in the uncured concrete.
  • No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Video: building a foundation for a bathhouse

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is built using cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed various types finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50x100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

  • At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
  • On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
  • The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
  • The wall frame is assembled from 50x100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as thermal insulation material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay a floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. They stack on it wooden boards, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and safely go home.

It is clear that for frame and other buildings installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bathhouse

Roof construction

Above any bathhouse there should be reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.

  • So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
  • If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
  • For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bathhouse with clapboard is done almost the same way. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior finishing is done not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the outside of the bath, you can use the following materials:

  • Imitation of timber.
  • Siding.
  • Lining.
  • Block house.
  • Facade tiles.
  • Dye.

All you have to do is choose the appropriate material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also the opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to quickly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as in the diagram.

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the upper ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close the ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

You can make the canopy and all the furniture for a country bathhouse yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Scheme

Photo: original baths

Today, the bathhouse is increasingly gaining popularity among people rushing in the cycle of modern life.

The beneficial properties of bath procedures on the human body have long been proven by science, which is why many owners of personal plots strive to build this structure in their yard.

This article brings to your attention material with which you will become familiar with modern approaches used in construction for these premises.

For visual convincing, just look at the selection of photos that show ready-made solutions regarding the construction of the entire frame and interior decoration.

Types of bath projects

Any construction begins with a project that will allow you to imagine what the final appearance of this structure will be and how much necessary materials you will need for this.

In addition, the development of the project includes such parameters as the choice of location for construction, dimensions, as well as information about the decor and design used.

The most common types of bathhouse projects are:

  • Construction of a 3*3 m structure, consisting of a standard set of premises - a dressing room and a steam room;
  • Construction of a 3*5 m structure, here a recreation room with a small kitchen is added to the standard set of premises;

  • A plan with dimensions of 4 * 4 m implies the presence of a terrace in addition to the type described above;
  • The design of a bathhouse with dimensions 5 * 4 includes the entire complex of premises of a modern steam room, which may also have a separate toilet, game room, as well as a salt room.

Basically, the choice of project depends on the available space on personal plot and financial capabilities.

Choosing a foundation for a bath

Often, during the construction of this structure, one of three main types of foundation is used. It can be a strip, column or pile foundation.

Tape. It is the most common type of foundation for the construction of most structures, including a bathhouse.

The advantage of this foundation is that it can withstand heavy loads, therefore, if your future building will have relatively impressive dimensions made of brick, then this foundation option is ideal for construction.

Columnar. Has distinctive features associated with simple device of this foundation and small financial investments, it is mainly used for relatively light structures made of timber.

It is erected exclusively in places where heavy loads occur, which mainly occur at the corners of the building and at the intersection of load-bearing structures.

Pile. This type of foundation is necessary for those who are forced to build their bathhouse on “moving” soil.

This reliable look with a rather labor-intensive construction process, and is justified precisely in those regions in which it dominates this type soil.

Mistakes made when building a bathhouse

Despite the existence of a developed project and the seriousness of the attitude towards this matter, mistakes still occur that are characteristic of a person when building with his own hands.

It is necessary to pay attention to the following points during construction.

Proper sizing planning is required interior spaces. A bathhouse designed for 2-3 people should not be less than 10 m2;

An acceptable ceiling height for such a structure is considered to be 2-2.5 m. If the figure deviates downward from this figure, visitors will feel discomfort, and if it deviates upward, there will be an overconsumption of coolants;

It is recommended to choose materials used to build a bathhouse in a country house or garden that are lightweight and energy-saving.

Particular attention must be paid to the main bath equipment. It should not only look beautiful, but also meet all safety standards for such structures.

Photo of a bathhouse at a summer cottage

Sometimes you really want to leave the hustle and bustle of the city and go to the country. Silence, walks, doing your favorite things - what could be better! If comfort is provided at the dacha, you want to come again and again. One of the comfortable living conditions at the dacha is a bathhouse.

Construction can, of course, be entrusted to professional builders. However, it is quite possible to build and improve a bathhouse on a summer cottage on your own. This eliminates additional expenses and allows you to carry out finishing and landscaping in full accordance with your desires and preferences. Therefore, this task is not easy, but it is quite within the capabilities of a novice builder. A self-built bathhouse will delight the owners even more. So, how to build a bathhouse yourself?

Firstly, as with any construction, you first need to decide on the project and the materials from which the bathhouse will be built. The choice of the main material for construction depends on the geographical location and operating conditions, as well as on one’s own capabilities.

Bathhouses are made of brick, aerated concrete and other stone materials; some prefer frame bathhouses, however, many novice builders prefer to build a bathhouse from wood. This lightweight and durable material does not require a serious and expensive foundation, but has excellent characteristics. With proper care, operating the bathhouse will not cause much trouble.

And of course, preference should be given to timber - a bathhouse made of this material will retain all the advantages of a wooden structure and eliminate the problems and additional costs that may arise when building walls from logs. Building walls from timber is similar to working with a construction set - it can have different geometric dimensions and cross-sections (rectangle, square, semicircular), and also, in the case of profiled timber, there are grooves for fastening. Building from timber is easy and convenient - what could be better for a novice builder!

How to choose a place to build a bathhouse.

One of the most important points- choosing the location of the future building. The location must satisfy both existing legislation and ease of use. Basic recommendations that can help you make your choice:

  • if there is a body of water nearby, you should not place the bathhouse too close to it, as the building will be in danger of flooding;
  • it is necessary to decide how the bathhouse will be located relative to the house: a separate building or will it be attached to it, since each option has its own positive and negative sides;
  • it is believed that it is better to build a bathhouse in the backyard, in relative privacy;
  • It is necessary to provide for mandatory ventilation during construction, as well as to provide for wastewater disposal;
  • It is highly not recommended to determine the location next to a nearby road;
  • When placing a building, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal directions and wind direction: the best place— the southern part of the site, protected from the wind so that it does not disturb vacationers; it is better to have windows facing west;
  • It is desirable that the bathhouse be located at some distance from other buildings, and if it is an extension to the house, it is imperative that during construction it is necessary to comply with fire safety rules, as, indeed, when constructing a separate building;
  • when determining the location of the bath and its size, it is necessary to observe established by rules distances from the boundaries of the site so that neighbors do not experience discomfort in the future and do not make claims to the owner;
  • It is recommended to maintain a distance to the water intake (well or borehole) of no more than 20 meters.

At the beginning of construction, it is highly advisable to make a project that should, among other things, determine optimal area the buildings.


It is believed that the estimated area for 1 person should be approximately 5 sq.m. Thus, if the expected number of visitors to the bathhouse is 4 people, its total area should not be less than 20 sq.m.

The minimum composition of the premises is as follows: steam room, washing room, relaxation room and dressing room. It is important to determine the most convenient location these rooms relative to each other, as well as their geometric dimensions.

First you need to complete several diagrams and drawings:

— general plan of the building;
— drawings of each room separately;
— diagram of the foundation;
- roofing diagram;
- plan for fastening and laying out timber;
— plan for the installation of the floor and ceiling of the bathhouse;
— installation diagram of the furnace, taking into account its design features.

You can make all the necessary drawings yourself, and you can also find them in a variety of open sources. As a rule, bathhouses made of timber have similar designs and you can easily choose the most suitable one. If you wish and have the necessary budget, you can entrust the design to a professional architect or builder.

Selection of building materials.

Below is a list of materials that will be needed to build a bathhouse from timber:

a) timber 150x150 mm, although it is possible to use timber with a cross-section of 100 mm or 200 mm;


b) floorboard (edged board 150x50 mm 4 meters long is excellent);


c) hardwood boards for ceiling construction (usually lining with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 20 mm or more is used);


d) material for wall decoration (as a rule, the same lining is used);


e) material for vapor barrier ( excellent option a vapor barrier film will be used);


e) waterproofing (it is advisable to use penofol, although polyethylene film is suitable);


g) ceiling insulation (mineral wool materials are a good option);


h) sheet asbestos for insulating wooden structures from temperature influences, including for walls near the stove and elements located next to the chimney;


i) cement, sand and crushed stone for foundation construction (recommendation - cement should be purchased before starting construction);


j) roofing material for the roof, which can be selected based on personal preferences and the main thing is that it fits organically into the surrounding roofs of other buildings;




l) insulation for the inter-crown space (it is better to use jute, although moss or tow are perfect).

The best time to start construction is spring, since after completion of the main construction work it is necessary for the timber to dry and shrink. This requires at least 6 months.

Do-it-yourself sauna - step-by-step instructions.

Step I – preparing the area for construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clear the site - remove bushes, stumps, remove debris and everything that will interfere with the foundation work.



Step II - building the foundation.

It is best to build a bathhouse from timber on columnar foundation, which is inexpensive and excellent for the construction of small wooden and frame buildings.

When constructing it, you first need to dig the estimated number of holes for installing supports. Their number is calculated as follows: supports must be installed in the corners of the building and at the intersections of walls, as well as with a certain step along their perimeter.

The pitch is selected taking into account the type of soil and the estimated total weight of the structure. The depth of the holes should be 1-1.5 meters, although it may vary depending on the depth of soil freezing in a given area. To perform this type of foundation, in addition to the materials listed above, you will need asbestos-cement pipes and fittings.


At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour a mixture of sand and crushed stone 10-15 cm thick. Then install an asbestos-cement pipe of the required length into it, strictly vertically, and secure it. Several reinforcement bars should be placed inside the pipe.

After this, pour into the pipe and free space There is a concrete solution between the walls of the pit and the pipe.


After pouring the solution, you need to wait a few days, then lay a half-brick thick wall between the pillars.

Step III – erection of walls and arrangement of the roof.

The traditional material for the construction of bathhouse walls is timber measuring 150x150 mm. Before laying the first crown, it is imperative to put waterproofing on the foundation. Bottom part the crown must be treated with an antiseptic. Most often, the timber is laid out using the “paw” method.


The first crown must be carefully aligned geometric parameters- all angles must be exactly 90 degrees. After the first crown is erected, they begin laying the beams for the set of walls. When laying out the walls, you need to make openings for future doors and windows and be sure to insulate each row with the selected thermal insulation material.

To connect the crowns, dowels are used - metal or wooden pins.

After the walls are removed, the roofing is installed. Depending on the chosen roof shape, it is necessary to fix the rafters, which are attached to the upper crown with brackets.

When installing a single-pitched sloping roof, the rafters are secured either by two external or one external and one internal supports. When erecting a gable roof, it is necessary to securely support the rafters from below to the wall, and connect them together from above to form a roof ridge.



Sheathing boards are attached to the fixed rafters, then hydro- and vapor barriers and insulation are laid on them.

The roof installation is completed by installing the selected roofing material.

Step IV - interior finishing work.

Interior decoration must begin with the installation of communications - sewerage, water supply, electricity. You should worry about sewerage even when designing and constructing the foundation.

It is necessary to dig next to the future bathhouse drainage well, which includes a sewer pipe buried in the ground with a slope to remove wastewater from the washing compartment.

After the sewerage installation is completed, a finishing floor is made, which is made of wood or concrete. Concrete floors are more durable and are most often faced with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

If at interior decoration If a wooden floor is chosen, it is usually made to leak. To do this, to established lags floor boards are nailed with a small gap, or a small drain hole is installed in the floor, covered with a grate.

In this case, the floor must be made with a slight slope towards the drain. Then the water that gets into the drain will be through sewer pipe discharged into a drainage well.

After installing the sewer system, it is necessary to perform insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling using appropriate materials, install electricity and water supply.

After installing windows and doors, then perform finishing premises using, for example, lining.

After finishing is completed, you need to install the necessary electrical appliances.

Step V - installation of the stove and shelves.

There are a great many options for placing shelves; you just need to follow the recommended dimensions and the fact that they should be made of hardwood. The installation principle is simple - a stable frame is mounted, usually made of timber, and boards are attached to it.

The stove must be installed in full compliance with fire safety requirements. Wooden structures must be insulated from exposure high temperatures working stove and chimney. If the furnace is heavy, it must be installed on a specially equipped foundation. This is determined on a case-by-case basis depending on the oven selected.

The stove is selected depending on the preferences of the owner. This can be a traditional wood-burning heater, a metal wood-burning or electric stove; sometimes it is advisable to choose a gas stove for a sauna.

Step VI - choosing accessories

There are many accessories for a bath.

The main ones are:

— brooms (oak, birch and others);
- containers (buckets, basins);
- a wooden ladle for adding water;
— wooden gratings for the floor and much more.

Additional individuality can be added by the interior decoration of the premises, which remains at the discretion of the owner - here, depending on desires and financial capabilities, you can give free rein to your imagination.

It should be added that all of the listed accessories can be made independently. The bathhouse is a great place to spend time in a pleasant, friendly company or with your family. It will be much more pleasant to realize that all this was done with your own hands, including useful and necessary equipment: for example, hangers, lamps or ventilation grilles.

Enjoy Your Bath!

Video about building a bathhouse yourself.