Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases

This representative of the flora received this name in honor of the princess named Hortensia. She was the sister of a prince of the Roman Empire. But botanists often call the plant hydrangia. And with Greek word can be translated as “a vessel of water.” And this name was given to the plant very aptly, because it loves moisture very much. Most hydrangeas grow in the form of bushes, the height of which is from 90 cm to three meters. But there are species that grow like small trees or vines. Deciduous shrubs are most often cultivated, but in nature there are also evergreen representatives of the hydrangea family. And the big advantage of hydrangeas is that they bloom for a long time - from May until late autumn. Inflorescences - spherical, paniculate or similar to “shields” or “umbrellas”, are formed at the ends of the stems. In some species, in the inflorescence closer to the middle there are small flowers, from which fruitlets are then formed, and larger, more spectacular ones, located closer to the edge, they are sterile. There are also species in which the “head” has flowers of the same size, and they are all capable of bearing fruit. Here are the most common types of hydrangeas:

• tree-like;
• Himalayan;
• large-leaved;
• oakleaf;
• paniculata;
• petiolate (climbing vine).

Usually the color of the flowers is white. But in grandiflora hydrangea (also called garden hydrangea), the color of the flowers can be pink, red, blue, indigo, or lilac. Often the color depends on the pH value (the level of reaction of the soil environment) and the presence of aluminum in the soil. The petals are white or pale beige when the soil is neutral. If the reaction in the soil is acidic, then the flowers are bluish, blue. The inflorescences are lilac or pinkish if the soil is alkaline. These are the nuances of growing large-leaved hydrangea that will be discussed further in our article.

Description of large-leaved hydrangea

In natural natural conditions(in the subtropics) this shrub can reach three or four meters in height. Cultivated hydrangeas typically range in height from one to two meters. Indoor forms usually grow up to 60 centimeters. The leaves are ovate or oval with a pointed tip. Their color is dark green. From June to October, the plant is decorated with inflorescences - white, bluish, pink, greenish, lilac, cream or variegated. The first specimens of heat-loving hydrangia, capable of producing armfuls of flowers, were brought to Europe from Japan. In Russia, at first they were kept only at home. Gradually they learned to grow this beauty in conditions open ground, but with cover on winter time. If last year's shoots overwinter successfully, flowers will appear on them in the summer. Now, thanks to breeding work, it has become possible to purchase relatively winter-hardy and remontant varieties of this beautiful plant.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea

Experienced gardeners have long learned to successfully grow such interesting varieties of hydrangia:

1. "Avantgarde" - this bush has very large, dense inflorescences, the diameter of which reaches 30 centimeters. These “caps” also surprise with the variety of shades of the petals: white, pinkish, green, lilac, bluish.
2. “Blushing Bride Endless Summer” - first white buds appear on the bush, then they turn into snow-white semi-double flowers. Gradually the petals turn pink. Therefore, people gave the variety a different name - “Blush Bride”.
3. Blaumaise - from July onwards compact bush(its height is about 120 centimeters) there are lacy inflorescences, the average diameter of which is 15 centimeters. The marginal flowers are larger than those in the middle of the inflorescence. The petals can be blue, and when the acidity of the soil under the bush changes, they gradually turn iridescent lilac, and then pink color. Experience shows that this variety of hydrangea is resistant to disease, but it definitely needs good shelter before the arrival of winter. It blooms directly on last year's shoots, so it is important to preserve the flower buds laid on them.

After 2003, new hydrangeas began to appear in the gardens of Russians, fans of hydrangeas, thanks to the efforts of breeders. We list only a few varieties that are more winter-hardy large leaf hydrangeas:

• series “Endless Summer” (translated as “Endless Summer”);
• “Early Sensation” (can be translated as “Early Sensation”) - this series has several representatives;
• "Red Sensation" (translated as "Red Sensation");
• Forever series;
• terry series “U-and-Mi” (“Symphony”, “Romance”, “Tugese”, “Expression”);
• "Expression" (deep pink double flowers);
• “Hovaria Hanabi Rose” (double flowers, their color is light pink, but when the soil pH changes, it can change to bluish);
• “You & Me Love” (beautiful pink petals can also change color);
• "Peppermint" ( pink flowers with a white border).

Nowadays in nurseries and many gardeners you can see remontant varieties on their plots, for example - “Bloom Star”, “Mini Penny”, “Hobergin”, “White Ball”, “Coco Blanc”, “Firewax White”, “David Ramsay”, "Ripple."

In such bushes, buds first appear (in May or in the first weeks of June) on those shoots that have overwintered. And a little later, the buds on the grown shoots of this year open.

Large-leaved blue hydrangea is obtained in a slightly acidic soil environment from the varieties “Nikko Blue”, “Mini Penny”, “Jomari”, “Hopcorn Blue”, “Freepon”.

If you want multi-colored hydrangeas, then look for the varieties “Freedom”, “Compeito”, “Ramars”, “Expression”, “Magic Sunfields”, “Shloss Wackerbarth”, “Sweet Fantasy”.

White flowers that do not have pigment are formed on varieties - “Schniebol”, “Koria”.

Let's start planting large-leaved hydrangeas

The best time to plant this plant is spring (when the rays of the warm sun warm the soil), but it is also allowed to do this in the first two weeks of September. It would be great if the area that you set aside for hydrangea has light partial shade, which is somehow protected from the currents of the prankish wind. It’s very good if they hit the bush Sun rays for six hours a day (preferably in the morning and evening hours). Under tall trees It is better not to place hydrangia, otherwise such large neighbors will take all the water from the soil, depriving the moisture-loving modest neighbor. The depth, width and length of the planting pit should be approximately 50 centimeters each. Prepare the mixture with which you will fill the hole in advance, for example, from the following components:

• light garden soil (two parts);
• high peat (two parts);
• humus (one part);
• fallen needles (one part).

If your soil is clay, then be sure to place drainage, for example, small pebbles or expanded clay, at the bottom of the dug hole.

Hydrangeas develop well in soils where the environment is acidic. If you expect blue, dark blue and lilac flowers, then aluminum sulfate should also be sent to the pit. If you plant varieties whose flower color is stated to be pink or red (for example, varieties “Alpengluchen”, “Red Baron”, Early Sensation”, “Red Sensation”), then such forms need an alkaline environment.

First, the roots of the seedling need to be kept in a bucket of water for some time, and only then can you start planting. Place your seedling in the prepared hole, straighten its roots and then sprinkle them with the mixture that you prepared earlier. The root collar of the plant can be buried only a little, because the lower buds are located on it, capable of producing young shoots. Water the soil compacted under the plant generously so that it can soak well. To retain moisture longer, sprinkle the soil near the bush with a layer of mulch, using crushed bark or peat needles that have fallen from conifers. It is this mulch that will also help ensure that the reaction of the environment is acidic. If you have several seedlings, then there should be a distance of at least a meter between them.

Let us recall once again that for good development Hydrangea bushes need a lot of moisture to bloom. Therefore, you will have to make sure that the soil around them is moist and water them in a timely manner. For a safe winter, it is important that large-leaved hydrangea receives a lot of moisture in the fall. Best taken for watering rainwater from a barrel standing in the sun. If you don’t have such water, then put it in a barrel in advance tap water so that it warms up during the day. Before watering, add a little to hard water. citric acid(or diluted 9% vinegar).

Be prepared for the fact that a young bush will not immediately give you armfuls of flowers. First he will develop root system, and only then with each next year there will be more and more flowers. To avoid root rot, in the first season, pour a few crystals of potassium permanganate into the watering bucket so that the solution turns pink. For the first three seasons, the hydrangea bush is not pruned. Only dried branches can be removed. Then every spring you will need to prune. Cutting is done to the first living bud, cutting off the old inflorescences left on the bush for the winter. If you prune a branch in the spring remontant variety, then a little later (in the same season) several peduncles will form on the same branch from the lateral buds. In this way, the number of inflorescences in remontant hydrangea varieties is increased. If you trim the branches of an ordinary hydrangea using this method, you will see new inflorescences on these branches only in the next season.

In spring, large-leaved hydrangea needs feeding. For it, it is better to use special mineral complexes intended for hydrangeas. Apply the second feeding at the moment when buds appear on the plant. The third feeding is done in the fall (September), shortly before the end of flowering. You can also add humus under the plants. One of the feedings can be done by adding diluted fermented manure to the water for irrigation.

And now a little about the diseases that sometimes develop on hydrangeas:

1. Chlorosis - it can be suspected if the leaves on a hydrangea bush suddenly begin to turn yellow, while their veins remain green. The disease develops if the soil has an alkaline environment. To eliminate the symptoms, it is necessary to acidify the soil by fertilizing with iron sulfate and a solution with the addition of potassium nitrate.
2. False powdery mildew- it is evidenced by those that appeared on sheet plates oily spots that turn yellow over time. Gradually these spots grow in size and darken. In this case, spray your bushes with fungicidal preparations.

If some of the leaves on the hydrangea begin to dry out and fall off, then carefully examine the leaves from the underside. If there is a cobweb, then these are signs of spider mites appearing on the bush. Actellik or other insecticidal preparations will help to cope with them.

How to propagate large-leaved hydrangea?

There are three ways to easily propagate your favorite hydrangea:

1. Dividing the bush in spring. Prepare several holes to accommodate the “new settlers”. Dig up your overgrown bush. Divide it into several parts so that growth buds are present, which will then produce young shoots. You can slightly trim the long roots and shorten the shoots.
2. By bending the layering in early May. Bend several flexible branches from an adult bush and secure them in the hole with a bracket. The depth of the hole should be approximately 15 centimeters. Where the branch comes into contact with the soil, tear off the leaves. At this point, scrape the bark with a knife to “start” the process of root formation. And only then fill the hole with earth. The top of such a branch can be tied to a small peg so that it stands vertically. Visit your cuttings and constantly moisten the soil around them. By autumn the branches will take root. You can cut them off from the bush. Plant these young independent plants next spring.
3. Cuttings - it is carried out in June. In the morning, cut 10-centimeter-long pieces from annual shoots. Make the bottom cut obliquely. Tear off the lower leaves and cut the upper ones to the middle. Place them at home in a glass with “Kornevin”, it will stimulate the formation of roots. In a day bottom part Place each cutting in a moist substrate. If possible, carry out cuttings in mini greenhouses or cuttings. If they are not available, then you can use a shaded bed. Then cover the cuttings with a cap, cutting plastic bottle in half. Periodically remove the caps, moisten the substrate, and lightly spray the cuttings. In about a month you will see young leaves begin to grow. This means that the roots have already grown in the ground.

Is it possible to change the color of large-leaved hydrangea flowers?

There are varieties of hydrangeas that can change their color from red or bright pink to lilac, blue, and dark blue. The color will change if the soil under the bush is acidic. To achieve this result throughout the entire season, once a week you need to add aluminum sulfate to the water for irrigation (two tablespoons of this are measured per two liters of water). chemical compound). Such hydrangeas should be fed only with fertilizers that contain little phosphorus, otherwise an excess of this element will bind the aluminum present in the soil, which will interfere with the change in color of the flowers.

Another way to change the color of the petals is to water the plants twice a month with water in which iron salts or potassium alum (ammonium-potassium) alum are mixed (5 grams of alum should be placed in two liters of water). Now in garden stores There are special blue dyes and a soil acidifying agent called “Acid Plus” on sale.

If you want the hydrangea to continue to produce bright pink or red inflorescences, then maintain the alkaline reaction of the environment by adding ash under the bush or watering it with water in which dolomite flour is mixed. And these bushes, accordingly, need fertilizers with a high phosphorus content.

How does large-leaved hydrangea overwinter?

If winters in your region are warm, then there will be no hassle with hydrangea. But in regions where winters are cold, a number of measures will be required.

Heat-loving bushes of this type of hydrangea must be reliably prepared for winter so that frosts of more than 18 degrees do not damage their shoots. First, before the arrival of persistent frosts, spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture to prevent them from damping off. Next, choose one of the winter shelter methods:

1. Add a good mound of peat to the bush. Place spruce branches on this elevation. If the shoots are short, bend them to the surface of the soil. Secure them with a wire frame. Throw non-woven material (for example, Lutrasil) on top and cover with spruce branches or compost soil. Next, put roofing felt to protect it from precipitation.
2. If the branches of your bush are already tall, rigid, and cannot be bent to the soil, then tie them together using improvised means, placing them with large spruce branches. Next, wrap them with several layers of agrofibre (Agrospan). Pack everything on top under thick film.
3. An original idea for a flat dry shelter. In October, arrange your garden hydrangea bush like a “sun”. To do this, tilt all the shoots and place them according to their diameter (as the rays of the sun are drawn in the picture). When the parts of the bush have been laid, pour a bucket of peat into the center. If it is not available, then empty the bucket garden soil. This way you will protect the roots of your hydrangia from the cold. Next, cover the spread hydrangea with Lutrasil. Throw dry leaves on top, and last layer there will be a thick film. Secure its edges with bricks or boards. In the spring, when the sun begins to actively heat up, after you have completely removed all layers of shelter, the shoots will gradually rise on their own.

In the spring, gradually remove the layers of cover from the hydrangea, because sometimes significant nighttime drops in temperature occur.

Tim Bebel is a hydrangea specialist who works in one of the American gardening centers, selling seedlings of this plant, and also growing them in his own garden. Many hydrangea admirers often complained to him that they diligently care for their hydrangeas, but they grew green mass and did not produce flowers. What can you do to ensure that hydrangeas bloom steadily and luxuriantly? In his book, Tim Bebel gives the following recommendations to those gardeners who grow large-leaved hydrangeas in cold climates:

1. In early July, cut off one third of the non-flowering branches on the hydrangia bush so that their height from the ground becomes from five to twenty centimeters, leaving one of the lowest buds on the shoot.
2. In the fall, before the arrival of frost, shorten the highest branches of your bush so that you can then mulch them. Carry out mulching with drying leaves and those branches that were cut.
3. Around mid-October, mulch the hydrangea bush well using peat and crushed bark. You can then put large spruce branches on the “hill”.
4. At the end of April or early May (depend on the weather), after all the spring frosts, carefully rake away the mulch. Be careful not to damage the fragile buds on the branches. In the first week of June, you can trim off those parts of the branches that look dry.
5. From May to mid-August, once a week when watering, add a fertilizer containing a lot of microelements and nitrogen, for example Miracid, to the water you are going to use to moisten the soil under the hydrangea.

Method for growing large-leaved hydrangeas in containers

If you purchased it from a nursery or flower shop A wonderful variety of hydrangea, but if you are afraid whether it will overwinter in your dacha, you can try growing it in a container or large pot. First, place small pebbles at the bottom of the container, creating drainage layer. Then fill it with substrate and move the purchased seedling there. The substrate must certainly be loose. To do this, mix taken in equal parts:

• garden soil;
• needles from coniferous trees, brought from the forest and half-rotten;
• high peat

From May to the end of September, place these containers in the garden, placing them near the house, gazebo, on the veranda, in the recreation area. In September, trim off the bloomed inflorescences. After the foliage on the bush withers and begins to leave the bushes, carefully tie up all the shoots and move them to a basement or other room where the temperature will be about plus five degrees. In March, these hydrangeas can be moved from the cellar to a warmer room, watered with warm water, and fertilizer applied. Then you can add pine litter to the containers, which will help acidify the soil and maintain soil moisture for a longer time. Every five years, it is advisable to transplant such bushes into a new substrate in the spring. You can put them in the garden in early May. But if weather forecasters warn about the arrival of frost, then you will have to throw Spunbond on the hydrangea.

With diligent care and attention, large-leaved hydrangea bushes will delight you every year all summer with their delightful blooms.

Large-leaved hydrangea, photo