The upper part of the cellar. Do-it-yourself cellar in a private house or country house. Cellar in the garage and under the house

All photos from the article

Country farming requires storage space for prepared foods, vegetables, fruits and pickles. Ideal place For such purposes there will be an earthen cellar, as it maintains optimal temperature and keeps food fresh.

We want to tell you how to build wooden cellar with your own hands.

Wooden cellar

Peculiarities

The tradition of constructing underground storage facilities has been known for a long time, since previously we did not have refrigerators at our disposal, and there was a need to keep food supplies fresh. One came to the rescue here interesting feature our soil.

The fact is that upper layer the soil freezes in winter or warms up in summer to a depth of no more than 1 - 1.5 meters for central Russia. IN northern regions this value increases for winter, in the south - for summer. Below this depth, an approximately constant temperature remains throughout the year at a level of 5–9 ˚С, which is comparable to the temperature in a modern refrigerator.

Important!
you can check temperature regime underground layers by measuring the temperature of spring water in winter and summer.
As a rule, it remains around +8 ˚С.

There are three main types of cellars according to the depth of immersion in the ground:

Ground. This type of design provides for a minimum depth of up to 25–30 cm, since such structures are installed in places with a very high groundwater level. In essence, this is an ordinary shed or storage shed for storing vegetables;
Semi-recessed. A depth of up to 60 cm is provided here; in this case, groundwater should be no higher than 1.5 - 2 meters from the soil level. Often the towering upper part of the structure is covered with a thick layer of earth and turf for better thermal insulation;
Recessed. Structures whose depth exceeds 1.5 meters are considered completely buried. As a rule, such cellars are completely buried underground to a depth of 2–3 meters.

Important!
The most effective option will be a completely recessed one.
It is guaranteed to protect your supplies from freezing in winter and overheating in summer.

Materials for construction can also be different.

The most commonly used are:

Rubble stone. Allows you to build strong and durable structures, but the work will be labor-intensive, and the price of the material and its delivery will be significantly high;
Brick. Better to use ceramic brick, since its moisture resistance is higher. A good material for a basement, but quite expensive and labor-intensive to work with;
Concrete plates. It is possible to construct the room from reinforced concrete blocks and slabs, but this will require the work of a crane. The design will be very strong and durable;
Monolithic concrete. You can install formwork in the pit and fill the walls with concrete. If it is possible to order ready-mixed concrete, then this option is well worth considering;
Wood. A traditional, time-tested option that is distinguished by an excellent microclimate, complete environmental safety and availability of materials.

When choosing wood as a building material for a cellar, you should remember its features, such as fear of moisture, rot and mold.

Important!
Wood is the best option in terms of microclimate and environmental safety inside the cellar, provided that all requirements for protecting the structure from moisture and mold are correctly met.

Selecting a location

After you have decided on the type of structure, its depth and the materials from which it will be constructed, you need to find appropriate place for the basement. There are two main options:

Cellar location	Features and Benefits
Under the house	Cellars are often located under residential building. This is beneficial from several points of view: the house protects the basement from surface moisture and frost, it is convenient to go down into it without going outside, and it is easier to install communications. However, if the cellar was not taken into account and dug during the construction of the house, subsequently it will be very difficult and inconvenient to work
On a plot separate from the house	This arrangement will require more serious protection from precipitation and frost. At the same time, you are not limited in choosing the size of the room, and the work will not be constrained by the foundation walls. Again, basement odors will not penetrate the house.

Usually, when building a house, the presence of a basement is provided for in the project, and it is dug out and strengthened at the stage of laying the foundation. Working in a built house will be much more difficult and costly.

Important!
If you want to have a basement inside your home, take this into account when designing.
Digging and arranging a basement inside a finished building is extremely inconvenient and difficult.

If you decide to place the cellar on a site separate from the house, then you should carefully study the landscape here. The best option is considered to be smooth open place, located on a small hill.

It is important to take into account the overall ensemble of buildings on the site. Cellars are not placed near compost pits, toilets, septic tanks, sewers, or enclosures with livestock. But about summer kitchen, home, utility shed, it will be quite appropriate.

It is advisable to provide a convenient and short path from your kitchen to the cellar, since you will have to walk along it quite often. It is better to turn on the lights twice: from the house and directly in the cellar.

Important!
Trees and plants with a powerful and developed root system should not be planted near the cellar, as this can destroy the waterproofing of walls and ceilings.

Construction of a wooden cellar

Construction starts from earthworks. If the groundwater level allows, then dig a pit 2.5 - 3 meters deep so that the room is completely underground and has a ceiling height that is normal for a person.

You can check the groundwater level at the gardening association, with your neighbors, or at the regional geodetic service. You can also measure the depth of the water surface in a nearby well.

As an example, we have compiled instructions for building a recessed wooden cellar:

We dig a pit 3 meters deep. The dimensions should be 50 - 60 cm larger than the room in each direction for ease of processing the walls;
The soil should be compacted at the bottom, and four holes 70 cm deep should be dug in the corners at a distance of at least 50 cm from any of the walls;
The bottom of the pits is covered with a 15 cm thick layer of sand and gravel, and then covered with polyethylene with a full wrap around the walls. 2.5-meter sections of 100x100 mm pine beams are installed in the pits and concreted. The part of the beam to be concreted must be covered with bitumen;
The floor is covered with a layer of crushed stone, which is spilled with melted bitumen or resin. You can leave the dirt floor if the soil inside is dry;
When the pillars gain strength, they are tied. To do this, a 100x100 mm beam is laid on the upper ends, connecting it into half a tree and nailing it to the ends of the pillars with two nails;
Walls with outside sew up with a strong board 40–50 mm thick or with a slab. For fastening, it is better to use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating. On one side it is necessary to make a doorway and dig a descent for the stairs opposite it;
The ceiling can be made of logs or timber. A durable 150x50 mm board or laminated wood board is also suitable. On top of the ceiling you should lay polystyrene foam in a layer of 100 mm or fill it with expanded clay, straw or sawdust;
Don’t forget to remove the ventilation pipes, one for exhaust, one for ventilation;
The outside walls should be coated, then the entire structure should be covered with a waterproofing membrane, polyethylene or roofing felt. It is desirable that the insulating carpet has a minimum of seams;
A staircase should be built opposite the doorway. It can be assembled from boards or made of concrete, brick or stone;
The pit should be filled with clay. It will create an additional barrier to moisture;
A canopy needs to be built over the entrance. Usually they make a classic basement entrance with a sloping roof or a gable canopy. Subsequently, a barn or summer kitchen can be placed above the cellar.

Important!
Everything wooden parts Before work, they must undergo deep impregnation with a complex antiseptic with antifungal action.

Conclusion

A wooden cellar is a good place to store any food, vegetables or preserves. You can do it yourself, provided you follow all the rules for preparing the material and waterproofing the structures. The video in this article will make our instructions clearer.

Any personal plot It’s quite difficult to imagine without this type of building as a cellar. It greatly helps in storing many food products, providing optimal temperature and humidity.

At the same time, not everyone knows how to properly build a cellar on a site so that it correctly performs all the functions assigned to it. It is not very difficult to erect this structure, if you take into account all the aspects and features of this process.

In order to dig a free-standing cellar, on the site or in the garden, it is best to use environmentally friendly, natural materials. They will not be toxic to those products that will be stored in the building.

If this is not a problem for preservation, then for vegetables and fruits in open boxes this factor can be very unfavorable. They are able to absorb certain odors, as well as some substances. Experts also do not recommend using metal when building a cellar. It can serve as a conductor of cold, which violates the optimal temperature for storing food during the winter season.

In order to build a cellar with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

To build walls you will need either bricks or foam blocks. If possible, concrete slabs can be used.
The floor is poured from cement mortar. For neg, cement itself, sand, water, crushed stone and reinforcement are used directly.
Either ready-made concrete slabs are used as the basis for the floors, or they are poured. It will require appropriate wooden formwork, reinforcement and concrete itself.
You can use either a geomembrane or roofing felt attached to the walls with mastic.
For the roof you will need both appropriate wood (bars and boards) and roofing felt.
The inside of the cellar can be arranged using two plastic pipes.
For openings in the form of hatches and doors, various types of lumber are most often used, or ready-made products are purchased.
For interior wall decoration, experts recommend using either plaster mixtures, or wooden boards. They can cover both the walls themselves and the ceiling.

The internal structure of the cellar is equipped with appropriate elements - shelves, racks, drawers, etc. Wood is most often used to make them. In certain cases, the structure is made of metal, after which it is sheathed with boards.

You should be prepared for the fact that everything wooden elements will need to be handled accordingly. For this, various antiseptics are used to protect the material from various microorganisms, mold, rot, etc.

Preparing the pit and pouring the foundation

The bottom of the pit itself should be compacted and strewn with sand and crushed stone. This is necessary so that the structure itself does not sag. The drainage pad should be about 30 centimeters thick. Sand takes up 20 centimeters, while gravel needs to be laid on top of it. This material should be compacted very firmly from above so that it penetrates deep inside. (About drainage on the site)

Reinforcement should be laid on top of the sand and gravel layer. It is best to use rods with a diameter of about 8 millimeters. They can be connected to each other, either with wire or connected using welding equipment. The resulting layer must be filled with concrete on top. To prepare it, it is not necessary to use any special formula - sand and cement should be diluted in a ratio of 3 to 1. This part of the cellar should harden for about one week, after which you can begin laying the walls.

Near the foundation you can dig several tens of centimeters in width of the structure. This space will make it easier to build a cellar. After completion of the work, it should be filled with soil.

Waterproofing device

In fact, simply digging a cellar is not enough, since it is also necessary to pay attention to other types of work. First of all, this concerns waterproofing and foundations. As for insulation from water that is in the ground or can penetrate into it, special materials are used for this purpose that do not allow the liquid to come into contact with both the floor and the walls of the structure.

The cheapest and most common waterproofing material used for arranging a cellar is rolled roofing felt. Glue it in several layers, going in opposite directions from each other. For good adhesion, a material such as tar is used. If this is done efficiently, the underground part of the cellar (or rather, its floor) will be well protected from water leakage.

Instead of roofing felt, you can use a modern waterproofing material - a geomembrane

Since the walls are also exposed to liquid, they, like the bottom of the cellar, should be covered with waterproofing. But it’s worth starting this work after the walls are built. It is worth remembering that in this case the roofing material must be slightly bent onto them. They cover the walls on top because these places are quite vulnerable, often being located directly at ground level.

Cellar wall construction

When building cellars, many people don’t know how to make walls correctly. This is due to the fact that a wide variety of materials are used for this part of the structure, which implies certain differences in the implementation of the entire process. Most often, either concrete, brick or foam blocks are used for walls.

For those who are interested in the question of how to build a concrete cellar, there is a fairly simple answer. First of all, it is worth building a reinforcement frame. It uses two vertical rows of 10 mm reinforcement, connected together with wire into a three-dimensional structure. It is necessary to build around it on both sides wooden formwork.

When it is created, you can begin to fill this limited volume with pre-prepared concrete. To ensure that no voids form in it, you need to use a special construction vibrator.

It is worth noting at what distance the wooden wall formwork elements should be from each other. A width of 10 centimeters is sufficient. This layer allows you to create a good microclimate in the food storage room itself.

Concrete walls should gain strength in about 2-3 weeks. Only after this can the wooden formwork be removed and proceed to further work.

If you build a cellar near a private house using bricks, then you should purchase M200 grade cement for the mortar. It is best to arrange two layers of walls. For them you only need to use solid brick. When the walls are built, do not forget about the waterproofing layer.

To do this, you can use a special substance that is coated with outer side from the foundation to the very top. Roofing felt should be glued on top of it. It's better to do just that, spending more money rather than having to redo the entire structure after just a couple of years due to leaks, mold and mildew.

The outer side of the walls can be additionally lined with clay. It is a fairly dense material that can retain liquid. Just a 10-centimeter layer protects the cellar well from the negative effects of groundwater.

Arrangement of the entrance

There are quite a few different entrances that can be used for a cellar. The simplest option is a regular hatch with a manhole. Most often they resort to this method of organizing the entrance in cases where there is limited space, or as a result of the fact that the depth of the structure is very large.

It is worth noting that from the hatch cover to the ceiling directly interior space must be at least 1 meter. Often two types of coverings are installed: one is external, the second is internal between the manhole and the cellar. To descend into basement use an ordinary staircase for basements.

A more complete entrance is equipped with a wide door opening onto the surface. Behind it there is a gentle staircase that allows you to gradually descend into the underground storage. Such an entrance to the cellar from the street can be suitably refined, making it quite attractive and interesting.

It is worth remembering that the door must also be lined with waterproofing material on the inside. It is best if there is a vestibule behind it - a room into which air at street temperature can enter without entering directly into the room where the food is stored. In this case, the underground part of the structure will be quite large, but more convenient and functional. In addition, in this case, you can make a full-fledged staircase from concrete or bricks with an inclination angle of about 45 degrees.

Roof installation

Before you make a cellar in a private house or on the street, you should think about what all its elements will look like. First of all, this concerns those parts of the structure that will be visible to all people, that is, the exterior itself. You can cover the cellar different ways, each of which has different advantages and disadvantages. It may look like a single slope or gable roof. It can be covered with turf or soil on top, thereby additionally creating thermal insulation for the room.

Setting up a roof for the foundation is quite easy. Initially, the beams should be laid, after which the floor itself in the form of boards should be placed directly on them. You need to put a rafter system on top of it. The roof needs to be secured to it. A waterproof material should be used for it. In this case, the cellar will look like small house. If you cover it with natural elements (soil, stones, landscape decorations), then it can quite easily dissolve in this environment.

It can be done without a visible roof. A croaker is used for this. It should be laid so that the flat side is at the bottom. It needs to be covered with plaster and then whitened with lime. The top of the structure is covered with roofing felt. A straw-clay mixture is laid on top of it, onto which soil is poured along with turf. It is best if you cover everything with grass on top.

Do not forget that there is space in the roof for two pipes. Their diameter should be 100 millimeters. One hole should go outside directly from the ceiling of the cellar. The other pipe should be placed so that it does not reach the floor by 30 centimeters.

An excavated cellar, separate from the building, is not only a functional room, but also a rather stylish and beautiful element of the yard, which should not only be properly equipped, but also quite nicely landscaped.

Video: Basic principles of laying a cellar

Conclusion

Before you make a cellar on the street (in a private house), you need to carefully prepare. This implies a purchase necessary materials, creation of an appropriate plan, approximate scheduling of work. In this case, you can be prepared for all the nuances of the construction itself, carrying it out as quickly and correctly as possible.

The constructed cellar, in full compliance with all the recommendations of experienced craftsmen, will function correctly for a long time, extending the shelf life of food in the garden.

Construction of a cellar involves not only the construction of walls and ceilings, but also proper ventilation, high-quality waterproofing and interior layout. If you make an entry incorrectly or save on usable area, using the cellar will be inconvenient, and it will be too difficult to remodel. Therefore, before you build a cellar with your own hands, you should think through everything down to the smallest detail.

A standard cellar is a rectangular room with low ceiling. For entry, a hatch with a movable ladder or concrete steps. The first option is cheaper, but not very convenient, since it is quite difficult to descend into the cellar along the crossbars and even with a load. Concrete or brick steps are much more reliable, and they are not at all difficult to make.

Already at the design stage, you should think about materials for ceilings. The width of the cellar directly depends on this. Some use ready-made concrete slabs as flooring, others pour and reinforce them themselves directly above the cellar, others use multi-layer floors made of timber, layers of waterproofing, boards and insulation.

Basic cellar parameters

The width of the pit should not exceed 4 m, taking into account the thickness of the masonry walls and the outer layer of waterproofing.
The length of the cellar depends on the needs of the owner, usually it is 4 m.
The height of the ceilings should be between 1.8-2 m. With good insulation, there is no need to dig deep; two meters is enough to ensure that the room does not freeze in winter and does not heat up in summer.

To save a little when arranging the stairs, when digging a pit you need to leave a 1 m wide area and remove the earth at a slope, forming steps with a shovel. But this option is only suitable for dense, hard soil, otherwise, under the weight of the brick, the soil will begin to settle and the stairs will collapse.

Another important point is wall cladding. Most often they are made of brick or concrete, pouring mortar between the walls of the pit and the formwork. Both methods are quite within the capabilities of a novice master, the main thing is to think through everything in advance. For brickwork you need brick and mortar; for a monolithic wall, you need to prepare material for formwork and spacers.

Video - Cellar. Theory and drawings

When all the details are thought out, the materials are prepared, you can start working. A layer of turf is removed from the selected area and markings are made using pegs, taking into account the additional space for waterproofing.

During the work you will need:

bayonet and picking shovel;
roulette;
building level;
crushed stone;
roofing felt;
bitumen mastic;
concrete mortar M 100;
tamper

Step 1. Digging a pit

According to the markings, they begin to dig a hole. At the location of the future staircase, steps are immediately formed, choosing soil at a slope. The steps should be 1.5 times wider than in the project, because the thickness of the riser is added to the tread. If the staircase to the cellar will be mounted separately, the pit is dug evenly around the entire perimeter. When the depth of the pit reaches 2 meters, the walls and base are leveled, lumps of soil are removed and construction of the base begins.

Step 2. Pouring the base

Fine crushed stone is poured into a 3 cm layer at the bottom of the pit, leveled, and the base is compacted using a tamper. Prepare a solution: take 3 parts sand to 4 parts crushed stone and add 1 part M400 cement. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 6 cm.

Step 3: Waterproof the floor

When the concrete dries, mark the walls of the cellar and lay 2 layers of roofing felt on the floor, coating them with bitumen mastic. The edges of the roofing material should extend beyond the perimeter of the marking by 10 cm; strips of material are laid overlapping, shifting the seams of the top layer by several centimeters.

Construction of brick walls

Step 1. Laying the first rows

To lay the walls of a cellar, you do not need to have the skills of a mason. All irregularities and defects in the masonry will be hidden under a layer of plaster. You can take used bricks, as long as they are red fired. White brick and cinder block is not recommended for these purposes.

The first row is laid out according to the markings on a sand-cement mortar. The second row is staggered with ligation of the seams. Excess mortar is immediately removed with a trowel, and every three rows are checked with a building level. A space of about 50 cm wide is left between the masonry and the walls of the pit.

Step 2. Installation of ventilation holes

You can lay out no more than 5 rows at a time, otherwise the solution will not withstand the load and the walls will “float”. It takes 8-10 hours to harden the masonry. In the 3rd or 4th row from the floor, a hole is made between the bricks for the ventilation pipe. The second hole should be left in the opposite corner of the cellar at a height of 1.6-1.7 m from the floor. The dimensions of the ventilation holes depend on the diameter of the pipe; usually these are square niches 25x25 cm.

Step 3. Installation of mortgages for fastening shelves

To fasten the shelves, metal corners or profile pipes with thick walls. They must go out outer wall by about 10-15 cm, and with inside match the width of the shelves. The distance between the corners is about 70 cm horizontally and about the same vertically. This method is quite convenient and reliable, and also saves money on the manufacture of individual racks.

Step 4. External waterproofing

When the walls are completely laid out, ventilation pipes are inserted and secured into the holes, brought to the top and temporarily fixed with wire to the top row. The outside walls are coated with liquid bitumen and roofing felt is fixed. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, the joints are covered with bitumen and pressed firmly. After this, the space between the walls of the pit and the masonry is filled with clay and compacted every half meter, not reaching the top by about 40 cm.

Concrete walls

Metal rods are driven into the walls of the pit along the entire perimeter, leaving 15 cm on the outside. Shields are knocked down from boards, chipboard or plywood to the size of the walls, covered with polyethylene and installed flush against the reinforcement. The formwork is reinforced with wooden beams and concrete is poured. It is advisable to fill the entire wall at once, then the surface will be the most durable. After a day, the formwork is removed and the wall is allowed to dry thoroughly.

Floor installation

If used for floors reinforced concrete slabs, the installation method is quite simple. The trench along the perimeter of the cellar is filled with stone, reinforced with a lattice of rods and filled with concrete. The slabs are laid after the concrete has hardened; they must completely cover the pit and foundation around the cellar. The joints between the slabs are sealed with a thick mortar.

If there are no slabs, you can do monolithic ceiling differently, using beams, steel channels, beams or pipes.

Step 1. Laying beams

In the last two rows of masonry, on opposite walls, holes are left for floor beams, the length of which should be 1 m greater than the width of the cellar. Wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm are impregnated with waste machine oil and dried. Then they are wrapped in roofing felt, which is secured with staplers.

Pipes or channels do not need such treatment. The prepared beams are laid on the walls, leaving an opening for the entrance, and then the trench and the edges of the beams are poured with concrete. Protruding edges ventilation pipes cover so that the solution does not get inside.

Step 2. Overlap device

The bottom of the beams is sheathed with boards 25 mm thick, and the top is covered with roofing felt. Expanded clay is poured between the beams or 2-3 layers of mineral wool are laid, everything is covered with plastic film, then again with roofing felt, and the joints are coated with mastic. Soil or clay is poured on top.

If the beams are metal, you can attach a chain-link mesh with small cells between them, lay reinforcement and metal scraps on it, and install a removable board made of plywood or chipboard covered with film underneath. The shield is supported by a 100x100 mm beam in several places so that the structure can withstand the weight of the concrete solution. They fill everything with concrete and let it sit for several days, then remove the shield, remove the excess mortar that has leaked around the edges, and let the slab sit well.

Video - Building a cellar yourself

Interior work

The next stage is installing the stairs. If a base of soil was left, a brick is laid on top, placing it on the edge vertically and flat on the tread. The side walls are also lined with brick, all gaps and joints are rubbed with mortar. You can replace the brick with a reinforcement frame and pour the steps out of concrete; you can also install a light metal staircase.

Next, the walls, floor and ceiling are tidied up. If the wall masonry is smooth and neat, it is enough to cover the surface with two layers of lime. Uneven masonry is pre-plastered with cement-sand mortar and then treated with lime. No additional wall covering is required, although various finishes are possible. The ceiling is checked for the absence of cracks and gaps, if necessary, the joints along the walls are sealed and also whitewashed.

The floor is covered with roofing felt cement screed 3-4 cm thick. In some cases, plank floors are installed on top of the screed or covered with linoleum, but this is completely optional. Finally, shelves are attached or racks made of boards treated with an antiseptic are installed. The shelving should accommodate everything you need so that nothing stands on the floor. This will ensure good preservation of vegetables and make cleaning the room easier. Do not block the space in front of the ventilation openings with racks and drawers, otherwise the air exchange will be disrupted and condensation will appear in the cellar.

The door to the cellar is made of durable boards 3 cm thick and is additionally insulated from the inside. In cold regions where frosts reach 30 degrees, it is recommended to install another door at the bottom of the stairs. The top floors must also be carefully insulated with a layer of soil, sawdust, clay and other available materials. Ventilation pipes should be covered with special caps with a protective insect net.

Video - How to build a cellar with your own hands

The cellar is an important element of any suburban area, it is indispensable for storing vegetables, fruits and canning. The article contains information on how to build a cellar at your dacha with your own hands: step by step description will help to take into account a lot of nuances, starting from the right choice places and ending with the installation of waterproofing and. The external arrangement of the building also has great importance, and the construction of shelving and drawers will help to use the space efficiently.

Do not confuse the cellar and the basement. Building a cellar at your dacha with your own hands can come down to simply digging a hole and minimally arranging it. The choice of the type of structure depends on many parameters, for example, on its intended purpose, on climatic conditions region, financial capabilities, etc. Also, when choosing the type and materials for building a cellar in a country house with your own hands, you need to take into account its location.

It is easier to build a separate building than, for example, to build a cellar under the house, but this option will require more materials, and therefore more finance. Make storage under a residential building or outbuilding will cost less, but this option is limited in space.

One of the most popular options is an ice cellar. It copes well with the function of long-term storage of food even in the hot season and is especially in demand in the southern regions. It is quite difficult and expensive to build this type of cellar in a private house with your own hands, but the result is characterized by high performance characteristics, durability and reliability.

Another a good option This building is a storage facility of two sections. As a rule, this type is used when it is necessary to avoid mixing the odors of various vegetables and fruits that are simultaneously stored in the cellar. To build such a storage facility you need less materials than for a glacier.

A separate type of cellar is a wine cellar. It is used for storing wine products and has its own design features and nuances that must be taken into account in order to properly build the cellar. As a rule, in such storage you can store not only wine, but also various preserves.

The nuances of arranging a cellar with your own hands at a high groundwater level

When choosing a location for storage, it is very important to take into account factors such as total soil moisture and groundwater level. The lower it is, the easier it will be to build the structure, and the less often repairs will be needed. If we're talking about about a free-standing structure, then you should choose the highest place on your site. It is best to determine the groundwater level when it is at its maximum, that is, in spring or autumn. If there is a well or borehole on the site, then you can determine the maximum elevation using them, otherwise you will have to drill a well separately.

It will be somewhat more difficult to build a cellar if groundwater is close. How to do this as efficiently as possible? First of all, it is necessary to pay great attention to the waterproofing of the structure. Also, with high soil moisture, it is worth using for better waterproofing of the cellar from groundwater. Construction Materials, characterized by increased resistance to water. In this case, you should not use wood or plywood, but rather give preference to concrete and brick.

Helpful advice! You can also check the groundwater level using folk signs. To do this, you need to leave a piece of wool and a chicken egg at the construction site, and cover them on top clay pot. If in the morning there is dew on both the wool and the egg, then groundwater is close, but if there is only dew on the wool, it is far away.

Recommendations for building a cellar with your own hands: how to do it as efficiently as possible

Regardless of what type of construction you choose or what materials you plan to use, there are a number of general recommendations, which should be followed when step by step construction DIY cellars:

if you are going to use wooden elements, they must be pre-treated with a special impregnation to protect them from the harmful effects of moisture;
It is best to start building a cellar in the summer, when the groundwater level is at the lower level. In this case, the soil will be the driest, and the risk of flooding of the structure will be minimal;
To ensure efficient storage of products, it is very important to consider a ventilation system;
if you want the structure to support desired temperature, then it is recommended when building a cellar with your own hands to make two doors separated by a vestibule;

special attention should also be paid to thermal insulation, then it will be ensured optimal temperature in the cellar at any time of the year;
The choice of tools and materials for construction is very important, so it is worth familiarizing yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of the different types in advance. The construction itself must be carried out in a clearly recommended order.

Features of using various materials

Most often, materials such as brick or concrete blocks. They tolerate it best high humidity and low temperatures, and are also characterized by durability, reliability and relatively low cost. When building a brick cellar with your own hands, you should take into account the operational characteristics of each type of this material:

cinder block or foam brick is characterized by increased fragility, so these varieties are not recommended for use in the construction of underground storage;
sand-lime brick is more durable, but reacts very poorly to high humidity. This means that a building made from it cannot boast of a long service life;

red brick is an ideal option for a cellar in a private house. How to make a building from this material as efficient as possible can be learned from numerous step-by-step instructions from specialists.

If you decide to use concrete blocks in construction, then you will definitely need specialized construction equipment, since they are characterized by heavy weight. A cellar made from them will last a long time and maintain the temperature well.

Also, when building a cellar in a house with your own hands, you can use bricks that have already been used, if its condition allows it. And in the event that you are just going to sheathe earthen pit wooden boards, they must be thoroughly treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting.

Note! Usage concrete slabs, reinforced with metal, is also possible. But in this case, it will be quite difficult to maintain the desired temperature, so this material should not be used for the building in which you are going to store food.

Do-it-yourself cellar at the dacha: step-by-step construction guide

Strict adherence to the sequence of actions is the key proper cellar. How to make the construction as efficient as possible, spending a minimum of time and effort on it? For this installation work must be done in a certain order.

Arrangement of the pit

The turf is removed from the selected area, after which the ground is leveled and markings are made. Many photos of a do-it-yourself cellar show that specialized construction equipment is often used to build a pit, but if this is not possible, then you can use shovels and spades. The advantage of working with hand tools is that it allows you to maintain the structure of the soil. If the soil in the selected area is loose, then the walls of the pit should be sloped to avoid crumbling.

The dimensions of the cellar depend solely on your needs, but remember that the size of the pit should be 0.5 m larger than the size of the structure itself. In the process of building a cellar with your own hands, the excavated fertile soil can be distributed throughout the summer cottage. After finishing the work, the evenness of the bottom should be measured with a level and corrected if necessary.

Construction of the foundation

Although you can do without this stage (by simply filling the bottom of the pit with crushed stone or filling it with bitumen), the arrangement of the foundation will increase the level of waterproofing of the cellar from groundwater. How to make the foundation as efficient as possible, but not too expensive? To do this, you can use a reinforcing frame, on top of which you pour concrete mixture. The recommended foundation height is about 40 cm. Installation of the foundation is prerequisite when building a cellar in a country house with your own hands, if groundwater is close. Thematic videos on the Internet will tell you how to make the foundation correctly.

Walling

If you use brick to build a cellar under your house with your own hands, then you will need a number of specialized tools. These include a trowel, mortar line, mason's hammer, mortar level and mortar bucket. For greater work efficiency, you should use the help of another person.

A mixture of clay and sand or cement can be used as a mortar connecting the bricks. During the construction of underground or above ground cellar With your own hands, laying should begin from the corners, and the first row is laid without using mortar in order to more accurately plan the position of the wall. The bricks of the next rows must be sunk into the mortar until the seam thickness is approximately 12 mm.

Helpful advice! Be sure to use a building level and plumb line when laying walls. Using the first, you check how evenly the brick is laid, and using the second, the correctness of the angles.

DIY cellar floor installation

When constructing a ceiling, it is best to use wooden boards. If the structure is being built under a house, then beams can be used as a ceiling, and the ceiling of an above-ground cellar at the dacha is made with your own hands step by step from PKZh slabs or slate. In this case, the surface can be flat or gable.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is done according to the same principle as the thermal insulation of a conventional roof - the gap between wooden beams And roofing material filled with a layer of thermal insulation.

Types and features of floor installation in the cellar

There are many various options when arranging the floor in the cellar, which one is better depends on your preferences, the purpose of the building, the characteristics of the soil and other factors. You should also familiarize yourself with the specifics of each method in advance; this will help you quickly and efficiently build a cellar with your own hands. Both video and photo instructions can greatly facilitate the installation process.

Dirt floor- the simplest and cheapest option. There is a misconception that the correct floor in the cellar should only be earthen, but this is not so. Even well-compacted soil will not protect the room from dampness and mold.

If you nevertheless decide to make a dirt floor in the cellar, then the base must be carefully leveled and compacted, after which a layer of gravel about 10 cm thick is poured. The advantage of this option is zero installation cost, but there are many more disadvantages. These include high risk flooding of the room and a high probability that metal elements will rust and wooden elements will rot.

Concrete floor– a good option to protect the room from high groundwater. Concrete screed can act not only as a floor covering, but also as a base for the installation of other materials.

To build a concrete floor, it is very important to level the surface, after which a cushion of crushed stone and sand 15-20 cm thick is installed. The sand must be thoroughly moistened and compacted, and bitumen must be poured on top. In order for the concrete base to be as strong as possible, a metal grate can be installed on top of the bitumen layer. After this, you can begin pouring concrete.

You can install the waterproofing layer either on a sand cushion or on top of concrete. In the second case, it is necessary to pour another concrete layer on top.

Clay floor- a reliable, but very labor-intensive option in terms of installation. Requires large quantity high-quality material, so it is used quite rarely. Clay is considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It is laid on a base of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick, which can be impregnated with bitumen. Under the clay, it is worth installing a layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt or other material, and cracks that may form after drying are sealed with a clay-lime mixture.

Brick covering– strong, durable and attractive appearance. In addition, the material is quite cheap and easy to install. The brick floor is laid on a bed of fine crushed stone or gravel, and a clay mortar is poured on top. The bricks are slightly sunk into the mortar close to each other. You can also hammer cement mortar into the seams between the bricks using a stiff brush.

Wooden floor– used in above-ground cellars or where groundwater is very deep. Before installation, wood must be treated with special impregnations to extend its service life. Wooden boards are mounted on top of timber logs, which, in turn, are laid on a base of crushed stone and clay. It is best to fasten the boards using self-tapping screws, but you can simply nail them.

Note! For each of the materials you will need a separate set of tools, which it is better to purchase in advance.

Design and installation of a ventilation system

If you are building a ground structure, then the flow of air into the cellar can be carried out naturally through small holes. For underground structures, ventilation must be supply and exhaust. Exit exhaust pipe should be located near the ceiling, and the suction unit should be located near the floor. Many do-it-yourself photos of a cellar in a country house show that the ventilation outlets are equipped with special curtains, this allows you to more accurately control the temperature in the room.

Installation of stairs and doors

If the cellar is being built under the house or if you need to save space, you should make an almost vertical staircase to the cellar with your own hands. How to make it as safe as possible for descent? It is recommended to use handrails. Photos of a do-it-yourself cellar staircase show that it can be built from wooden planks fixed directly into the ground, as well as from brick or other materials.

Doors are mounted in ground-based design options; in other cases, a hatch is used. Making a cellar hatch with your own hands is quite simple.

Making a hatch

If the cellar is located under a house or outbuilding, then a hatch is used as an entrance partition. You can buy a cellar hatch, or you can make it yourself. The second option will allow you to get a design that exactly suits your needs. Self-installation includes the following steps:

a location for the future entrance is selected. It is very important that access to it is as simple as possible and not cluttered with shelves, drawers and other objects;
The dimensions of the hatch are determined. It all depends on your needs, but its parameters should not be less than 75x75 cm. In order for the room to be airtight, the side edges of the hatch must be sheathed with a sealant;
a cellar hatch cover is being made. How to make it light and durable? For this, it is best to use wooden boards impregnated with drying oil. They are connected to each other with slats, and a sheet of plywood is nailed to one side of the lid. If we are talking about a cellar in a residential building, then the top of the hatch cover can be sheathed with the same floor covering, as the floor around her. It is worth considering that if you plan to install a cellar hatch under tiles, its design must be made of sufficiently durable materials that can withstand all the ceramics. If you prefer to use steel, then for the lid you will need a sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, which is welded onto a metal frame;

a handle is attached. The best option would be a special hidden or folding design. If the cellar is located in a non-residential premises or there is a need to save money, then you can use a regular door handle;
the hinges are screwed on. These can be regular door hinges or car hinges with springs. Last option will make it easier to open the lid and fix it in any position.

There are many answers to the question of how to make a cellar hatch with your own hands, so you should choose the option that is most suitable in your particular case.

Wiring and lighting

Due to the fact that the design of the cellar provides for high humidity, the wiring in it must be reliably insulated. The best option for wiring is copper wires with double layer of insulation. Light bulbs should be placed in the driest places and additionally equipped with protective caps. It is strictly forbidden to make sockets when building a cellar. How to properly make wiring as safe as possible can be seen in training videos from specialists.

Installation of waterproofing in the cellar

As already mentioned, insulation from moisture is very important point when building a cellar at the dacha with your own hands. How to make waterproofing most effective - there are many options, and the choice of the optimal one depends on the level of soil moisture and design features the buildings.

Waterproofing can be external or internal. The external one is done during the construction stage, while the external walls are sheathed with insulating materials, and gutters, drainage wells and other structures are installed. Internal insulation is done after the cellar is built. In this case, before using insulating materials, groundwater must be drained, otherwise the work will be ineffective.

Types of materials used for internal waterproofing

If you made a cellar in your country house with your own hands from waterproof concrete, then you are unlikely to need additional cladding with insulating material. But for a brick structure you can use the following waterproofing options:

mastic or bitumen - used in cases where the groundwater level is below floor level. The solution is heated and applied in a thin layer to the walls, resulting in the formation of a reliable waterproof film;

– the most expensive, but also the most effective option. It is good because it increases not only the level of resistance of walls to moisture, but also their frost resistance. Also, penetrating waterproofing reliably seals all cracks and micropores, is characterized by a long service life and is quickly installed;
Cement-based polymer mortar is one of the most reliable and easy-to-apply waterproofing materials. It fits tightly to the walls and reliably protects them from mechanical damage;
membrane-type moisture insulation - consists of various polymers, among which liquid rubber based on bitumen is very popular.

Note! Availability is very important effective ventilation for reliable waterproofing of the cellar at the dacha with your own hands. How to build a ventilation system so that there is no condensation in the storage excess moisture? The installation of a supply and exhaust system is best suited for this.

Procedure for installing waterproofing

Numerous photos of a cellar in a private house show that waterproofing can be hidden under decorative wall panels. This is not a prerequisite, but only affects the appearance of the walls. The nuances of installing a waterproofing layer depend on the type of material chosen.

Waterproofing using bitumen or mastic for the walls of a cellar under a house, as a rule, is not easy to do with your own hands. special labor. To do this, the walls must first be plastered, and the waterproofing itself is best applied in two layers. Before the coating dries completely, it is recommended to sprinkle it with fine dry sand.

Before installing penetrating moisture insulation, the surface of the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and then moistened with water. After applying the insulation layer for several days, it also needs to be constantly moistened. Concrete walls Before installing penetrating waterproofing, they are treated with a wire brush.

For application liquid rubber, the walls must be leveled and cleaned. After this, the surface is primed and a waterproofing material is applied to it using a brush, spatula or roller. Decoration Materials can be mounted directly on a layer of liquid rubber after it has dried. Photos of wine cellars, for example, show that the walls are lined with wood panels.

The cement-polymer mixture is applied to well-moistened walls using a notched trowel or brush. It is best to do this in several layers.

DIY installation of shelves in the cellar: photos and instructions

Shelves and racks are integral elements of any cellar and basement. There are several types of cellar racks, which can be bought in specialized stores, but it is much easier and more economical to make them yourself. The most popular options are the following:

Wooden shelving is one of the most common answers to the question of what to make a shelf from in the cellar. The material is environmentally friendly and easy to use, and for shelving it is best to use timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm and boards 3-4 cm thick. The installation scheme is very simple - racks are made from timber, in which sockets are cut to secure the shelves. In order for wooden shelves to last longer, they are impregnated with special compounds;

Concrete shelving is a good option if you want to know how to make your cellar shelves as durable and moisture-resistant as possible. To create concrete shelves, you can use reinforced concrete slabs or niches in the walls that are filled with concrete screed;
shelves made of steel angle – used in rooms with low level humidity, otherwise the structures can very quickly begin to rust. In order to make a shelf in the cellar for cans, as a rule, it is used welding machine, but you can get by with simple self-tapping screws. First, frames are made from metal slats, then shelves are attached to them;
plastic shelving is one of the most economical and simple options, which is distinguished by its attractive appearance and resistance to moisture. However, plastic does not tolerate well low temperature, therefore cannot boast of durability.

Helpful advice! When wondering how to make a shelf in the cellar with your own hands, and what material to choose for this, consider the level of humidity in the room, as well as the average weight of the cans and boxes that will be stored on the racks. Concrete can easily withstand even very heavy loads, but plastic cannot boast of this.

From the same materials you can make boxes for potatoes in the cellar. As a rule, they are equipped with removable covers, which are installed if necessary. Regardless of what material you choose, in the warm season it is recommended to take shelves and drawers outside to dry. This will prevent the occurrence of mold and the proliferation of pathogens.

When the construction and interior arrangement of the cellar is completed, you can think about exterior decoration ground structure. Its option depends solely on your preferences - you can simply pour an earthen hill, or you can decorate it with turf or ornamental grass, turning it into an element landscape design. During the process of building a cellar with your own hands, use video and photo instructions that will help you take into account all the nuances and arrange a practical and functional room.

Currently, almost every family has a plot of land in the form of small dacha, where city residents plant vegetables and take care of their fruit trees, grow flower crops.

However, in the fall, many owners begin to think about where to store all the vegetables and fruits collected from the garden.

The ideal option for this is a cellar, in which all year round The optimum temperature for storing preparations and vegetables is maintained.

In this article we will talk about how to build a cellar without extra costs what requirements and recommendations must be observed during construction.

The structure of the cellar and its differences from the basement

Between the cellar and the basement there are serious differences.

Materials required for building a cellar

For the construction of a cellar, materials such as concrete, cinder blocks and bricks.

Porous materials, such as polystyrene foam, will easily allow air and moisture into the room, so additional costs may be spent on waterproofing and ventilation.

To build a cellar with your own hands, we will be needed:

crushed stone and gravel;
river sand;
clay;
roofing felt;
cement;
bricks;
ceiling boards.

The main stages of constructing a buried cellar

Preparing a pit and a solid foundation for the cellar

Having chosen a place to build a cellar, and having decided on the size of the structure, it is necessary clear the soil surface of vegetation, stones and sticks.

In order for the cellar to be durable and serve you for many years, it is important to properly dig the pit and prepare the foundation for pouring the floor and installing the walls:

First you need dig a hole of a certain depth, depending on what type of cellar you have chosen. In our case, the height of the structure will be about 2.5 meters. In addition, it should be taken into account that part of the space will be occupied by an entrance space or a hatch, stairs and shelving, so the pit should be dug with a margin, which will depend on your preferences

Helpful advice! Before digging a pit, you should check the meteorological forecast for the coming week, since the presence of precipitation can significantly complicate the construction process.

After preparing the pit, it is necessary to treat the base of the cellar, level and compact the top layers of soil. The floor in the cellar must be stable and level. To get rid of excess moisture, we need to fill the bottom of the cellar with a layer of crushed stone or gravel up to up to 30 cm.

Pouring the floor with clay and concrete

To build a floor in the cellar, you need mix clay solution with little content quartz sand(no more than 10% of the total amount of clay) with water.

You should have the consistency of thick sour cream. Using the resulting mass, pour gravel into an even layer to a height of about 3 cm.

In order for the building to serve you for many years, a clay floor will not be enough, so many people strengthen it and poured concrete. To do this, place on a dried layer of clay reinforced mesh to strengthen the floor covering.

On top of it it is necessary to pour a layer of concrete mortar to a height of approximately 5 cm.

To prepare a concrete solution, you need to take five parts of river sand and one part of high-quality cement. For example, on 1 kg we should take some cement 5 kg sand

Most often, cement packages indicate the proportions of the required materials, so it is better to follow these recommendations. Filling the base of the cellar with a solution 5 cm, you need to level it and give it a couple of weeks to dry completely.

Construction of walls in the cellar

An important stage in the construction of a cellar is walling. Let's look at the rules for building brick walls step by step:

Before you build walls, you need to level with a shovel or trowel, so that the brick laying is as even as possible
A prerequisite for laying bricks is foundation cleared of earth and pieces of clay, on which the first layer will lie. The foundation is necessary for the stability of brick walls. For its construction, the remaining concrete solution that was used to fill the floor is used. The width and height of the foundation depends on the load that will be placed on it in the future. Typically the width of the walls is made from 1 brick, so we fill the foundation so that it protrudes above the floor level by 15 cm and let it dry
The beginning of the masonry must begin from the corner of the wall where the doorway will be. The laying must be carried out in a checkerboard pattern, that is, starting with a whole brick, the second layer will begin with half a brick, the third with a whole brick, and so on
When laying a brick on the foundation, it is necessary each time tap with the handle of a trowel for better bonding and to allow excess solution to come out. In order for the walls to be smooth and strong, it is necessary to check each erected row using a building level
Cement mortar for fastening bricks is prepared in the ratio 4 parts sand to 1 part cement powder
At the same time as cement, experts recommend preparing a thick clay solution by mixing clay and water in the ratio 2×1, which needs to be filled free space between the earthen wall and the brickwork. This will serve as an additional layer of waterproofing.

After building the walls, you need to let the mortar harden for about for a week, after which you can design the ceiling with a ventilation system and waterproofing.

Waterproofing

Availability waterproofing layer is a necessary requirement when building a cellar.

The most popular materials for wall insulation are roofing felt or hydrostekloizol. In addition, experts advise treating walls and floors with a special waterproof compound.

So, after we processed the brick water repellents, it is necessary to waterproof the walls using roofing felt and cement.

Mounted on walls 2 – 3 layers of roofing material using heated bitumen, after which they must be plastered cement mortar.

Hot bitumen is a molten bitumen mastic made from hydrocarbons and their derivatives. It is a fastening material that has water-repellent properties.

Construction of floors

Ceiling in the cellar must be as durable and reliable as possible.

To build the ceiling in our cellar we use metal channels, representing metal constructions U-shaped.

Due to the fact that the weight of the ceiling is very large, you should build it yourself supports, supporting the ceiling. First, a base is made of four boards fastened together, and wooden supports are installed on them.

This entire structure is installed on the base of the floor and supports concrete ceiling until it dries completely.

To build the ceiling, we place it on the top layer of brickwork reinforced mesh, fill it with cement mortar and wait for it to dry.

After which you can begin laying the channels at a distance of about half a meter from each other. In this case, it is necessary that the channels go perpendicular entrance opening.

When making ceilings in the cellar, you need to leave holes for ventilation pipes, each of which is approximately 15 cm in diameter.

Ventilation in the cellar

Ventilation in the cellar is an important point when designing a cellar in the country.

If the room does not receive enough fresh air, then this can cause serious harm to human health.

The most popular type of ventilation is supply and exhaust. To organize it, you need to take two plastic pipes and place them in the openings of the ceilings.

One pipe is placed at a height half a meter from the floor. Fresh, clean air will flow through it into the room.

Another pipe is needed to remove musty and harmful air outward, it should be located above the ceiling, protruding downwards 10 – 15 cm.

Installed on pipes plugs and protective caps, protecting against excess moisture.

Design of shelves and racks in the cellar

The design and decoration of the premises should be done after all construction work is completed.

Many owners prefer to build an entire wall wooden racks with shelves of different sizes.

Some people attach metal to the walls hanging shelves that can withstand the heavy weight of stored products. Metal corners attached to the wall by welding in selected places.

When choosing certain designs for the cellar, you should proceed from what products will be stored there.

The most popular option among summer residents is prefabricated shelving, which are simply attached to the entire wall. The advantage of such shelves is their mobility, that is, in dry sunny weather they can be taken out to dry.

Attention! It is advisable to cover all wooden elements in the cellar special means against eating by insects, which will protect the building from cockroaches and beetles.

So build a cellar on our own Every owner can, the main thing is to follow the advice of experts and not skimp on building materials.

You can watch detailed information about building a cellar at your dacha with your own hands in this video.