Ventilation in the steam room of the bathhouse. Ventilation in the bathhouse: an overview of traditional schemes and arrangement nuances. Is ventilation needed in a bathhouse and what are its basic principles?

For our population, the Russian bathhouse is a unique historical heritage and national treasure. She played throughout the ages important role in the lives of all people. The bathhouse is still famous for its capabilities in strengthening human health, and bathing procedures are an excellent way to normalize metabolism and relieve stress.

That is why baths and saunas are growing on the plots of our homeowners and summer residents like mushrooms.

How to organize ventilation

But building a good Russian bathhouse is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. To create a healthy atmosphere in these buildings, it is very important issue is a ventilation device in the steam room of a bath.

How to set up this system correctly? To do this, it is necessary to understand the principle by which Fresh air enters the room, mixes and leaves. Good ventilation in a steam bath should carry out a complete exchange air environment in the steam room at least three times per hour.

To ensure that the parameters of the steam room comply with sanitary standards, we will think through the design of the ventilation system in detail.

It is necessary to carefully calculate the system that ensures the circulation of flows in the steam compartment. High-quality ventilation of the steam room will allow you to take procedures without fear of getting burned, even if the stove is located in the steam room.

There are several ways to ensure proper flow circulation. If you decide to do it yourself, then you need to study all these options and choose the most suitable one for you.

Scheme No. 1

Instructions for the location of ventilation holes:

We place the entry hole behind the stove at a height of approximately 50 cm from the clean floor;
we arrange the exit hole on the opposite wall, it is slightly lower, about 30 cm from the floor;
We install an exhaust fan at the exit.

Let's look at how the system works in this version:

cool flow enters through the inlet channel;
near the stove the air heats up and rises;
cooling, the flow goes down and exits through the hood.

With this arrangement of ventilation holes, the air in the steam room is heated evenly.

Important. The lower you place the outlet duct, the stronger the air circulation will be. You can adjust the flow using a fan.

Sometimes a variation of this scheme is used, where the output and input channels are located at the same level and only 20 cm from the floor. With this arrangement, the ventilation of the steam bath will function well only if there is a fan at the outlet.

Scheme No. 2

In this case, the air flow takes a different path:

cold streams enter the room through the inlet, which is located 30 cm from the floor on the wall opposite the stove;
they hit the stove, heat up and rise up;
the waste stream exits through the outlet channel, which is located above the input channel, at a distance of 30 cm from.

The disadvantage of this option is that cold currents follow the legs until they hit the stove and heat up.

Scheme No. 3

This option is used in steam rooms where there are technological gaps in the floors. Ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath according to this option is very effective for air exchange in the room and helps keep the wooden floor covering in perfect condition for a long time.

This scheme can also be organized in two variations. In both cases, the entrance is made behind the stove at a distance of 30 cm from the floor.

And the hoods are arranged as follows:

the exhaust hole is made under the floor, on the wall opposite from the stove, which rises outside the steam room to the roof of the structure;
the exhaust hole is made at the top, 30 cm below the ceiling, it also goes into the ventilation pipe.

Advice. Combining these two options will make it possible to control air flow in the steam room.
Just remember to equip the outlet channels with valves.

Scheme No. 4

Important. The use of this option is only possible with a constantly burning stove, since the vent itself serves as an exhaust hood.
And the blower is capable of absorbing air and removing it from the bathhouse only when the stove is running.

This scheme operates as follows:

the entrance channel is built 30 cm from the floor opposite the stove;
the role of the hood is performed by a firebox with a blower and a chimney;
the fresh stream heats up, rises to the ceiling, then cools and falls down, where it exits through the furnace.

Summary

Classic bath procedures have a beneficial effect on human health, especially if all necessary norms and rules were observed during the construction of the bath. The ventilation inside the steam room should be aimed at a constant outflow of used air and an influx of fresh air.

Air can enter the steam room through vents, half-open doors, or through special vents. It is better to organize the outflow forcibly. Price exhaust fans not very high, and the costs will be justified by the fact that the organization of air exchange in the steam room will be at the highest level.

Using the correct air circulation pattern will help you make the atmosphere in the steam room healthy, and washing in the bathhouse a desirable procedure for your family. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

In the process of arranging a bathhouse Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the issue of organizing high-quality ventilation. Without proper air exchange, it will simply be impossible to use the steam room normally. If desired, all work on installing the necessary systems can be done with your own hands. You just need to understand the order of installation and connection of the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Ventilation in the bathhouse is very important. To avoid lengthy and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything using a specific example.

The bathhouse visitor is in a room filled with a large amount of hot steam. A person inhales this vapor. It is known that people breathe oxygen, but exhale carbon dioxide. In the absence of sufficient air exchange, after some time a person will simply burn out.

That is why ventilation in the bathhouse should be as efficient as possible and made in full accordance with technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Study the features of each option and choose the method that is most suitable for your case.

Ventilation systems are installed to solve two main problems, namely:

ensuring the flow of clean air into the bathhouse;
removal of exhaust air from the steam room.

Additionally, ventilation ensures faster and better drying of the steam room. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and understand the order of their installation in order to obtain the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.

It is important that during operation of the ventilation system the characteristic characteristics of a bathhouse are not disturbed. temperature regime. Air exchange must be organized in such a way that there are no disturbances in the distribution of temperature flows in the bathhouse. Cool air in the steam room can only be located near the floor. And the higher you go to the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.

Ventilation should not take away from the bathhouse fresh air. A properly equipped system supplies fresh air to the room and removes exhaust air. Errors during installation of the system will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences for both the bathhouse and its visitors.

Main types of ventilation systems

There are several types of air exchange systems suitable for use in a bathhouse, namely:

Exhaust air is removed from the bathhouse through a special ventilation duct. The air exchange installation technology requires that the box be installed diagonally to the supply opening through which fresh air enters the bathhouse.

Take care of ventilation in all areas of the bathhouse, and not just in the steam room. The dressing room, rest room and other areas of the bath should also be well ventilated.

What you need to know about floor ventilation?

Quite often, bathhouse owners forget that the floor of the steam room must also be well ventilated. Such forgetfulness leads to very rapid deterioration of floor structural elements and a general deterioration in the characteristics of the bathhouse.

Floors are constantly in contact with water. Without properly organized air exchange, the floor will collapse very quickly, and the floor covering will have to be replaced after 2-3 years.

You need to think about floor ventilation at the bathhouse construction stage, because... In a ready-made room, it will be much more difficult to create high-quality air exchange.

First stage. Make small vents in the opposite walls of the basement. It is best to provide these vents at the construction stage concrete base baths Creating any holes in an already finished structure will lead to some reduction in the strength of the building.

Second phase. Make one ventilation hole in opposite walls of the room being served. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. The holes must be through. It is recommended to close the finished channels with special ventilation grilles. Such protection will not allow all kinds of rodents and other pests to enter the bathhouse.

Third stage. When building a stove, make sure that its vent is slightly below the level of the finished floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will also start working in exhaust mode.

Fourth stage. Lay it down floor boards. When laying them, you need to leave gaps about 7-10 mm wide. Water can flow down through these gaps. If the liquid lingers on the floor every time, the boards will rot very quickly.

Quite often, floor ventilation is arranged “according to Bast”. According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and waste oxygen is removed through an opening under the ceiling.

According to requirements fire safety near sauna stove must lie a metal sheet. It is near this sheet that a hole is created to supply fresh air to the bathhouse.

To provide such air exchange, a special exhaust duct is required. You can buy a ready-made box or assemble it yourself from boards. The inner surface of the exhaust duct must be covered with foil. The size of the box should be approximately 15-20% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

Ventilation “according to Bast” is the best option for those cases when the stove is located directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation ducts can even be installed directly in the brick podium.

Pay attention to the installation location of the sauna stove. If the stove is located directly in the steam room, it means that natural air exchange is present initially. You just don’t need to rely solely on it - such ventilation only works when the stove is running.

Most best option installation of ventilation - arrangement of air exchange channels on opposite walls of the bathhouse. They should be at different heights.

It is not recommended to place ventilation holes too high. Although in most other cases it is recommended to make an exhaust hole directly under the ceiling, slightly different rules apply in bathhouses. If you place the hood directly under the ceiling, hot air will leave the room very quickly.

For baths optimal height The placement of ventilation holes is at a level of 1-1.5 m.

Installation guide for ventilation in a bathhouse

There are several simple ways organizing effective air exchange in the bathhouse. Study each of them and choose the best one for your steam room.

First way. Create a hole to supply fresh air. It should be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. Make a hole for exhaust air exhaust on the side opposite to the inlet hole, at a height of approximately 30 cm from the floor level. Install the fan into the outlet.

The lower you place the exhaust ventilation duct, the more intense the air exchange will be.

However, there is no need to be too zealous either. Try to make holes at the recommended height, because... such values are the most optimal. It is recommended to close the holes with ventilation grilles.

Second way. With this air exchange, both ventilation holes will be on the same wall. Work will be carried out with a wall located parallel to the stove. The exhaust duct is created at a level of about 30 cm from the floor, the exhaust duct is created at the same distance from the ceiling of the bathhouse. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Third way. Make a hole behind the sauna stove for air intake. Place the suction duct at a level of about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust duct is made at approximately the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Fourth way. This air exchange option is perfect for baths, the flooring of which is laid with slots for water drainage. Make an inlet hole behind the stove unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. In the case of such ventilation, an exhaust hole is not made - the exhaust air will leave the bathhouse through the cracks flooring, and then vented to the street through a common ventilation pipe.

Fifth way. This ventilation is ideal for baths with a constantly running stove unit. Install the inlet channel opposite the stove, about 30 cm away from the floor. The hood function will be performed by the oven.

Thus, the procedure for arranging ventilation is practically the same in all the considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes; only the location and height of their placement change.

You can also make the holes yourself. Brick walls can be easily penetrated with a hammer drill, and log walls with any suitable tool, for example, a wood drill. It is recommended to insert into the finished holes plastic pipes. Don't forget about protective ventilation grilles. You won't be happy in the future uninvited guests in the form of rodents.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathhouse

The positive effects of regular bath procedures on the body are invaluable. At the same time, a bathhouse is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits are easily outweighed by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bathhouse.

Importance of the system

Even in ancient times, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in a bathhouse could quickly cause the appearance of dampness, mold, and fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why, even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they helped improve air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Nowadays, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, since after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constant high humidity, and if the bathhouse is built according to frame technology, then its service life will be even shorter. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable when the stove is lit. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Efficient ventilation in the bathhouse must necessarily comply with the basic requirements and safety principles:

Correct redistribution of air masses. As you know from a school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush upward, while cold ones, on the contrary, descend. Therefore, the flow should be directed so that the feet do not freeze and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
Maintaining a given heating level in the steam room. Ventilation under no circumstances should interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, cooling the air is unacceptable.
Use of water-resistant materials. To arrange steam rooms and organize ventilation in them, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to humidity and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating effective system air exchange is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot humid air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is necessary to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from falling, therefore modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from streets. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas ovens, since such circuits require a large volume of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional zones, as well as walls, floors, the attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roofing and the materials used to make it. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally installed, which allows for ventilation between the layer of thermal insulation material and the other layers of the roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensation in the bathhouse.

But for the best drying of floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is installed. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, lay a subfloor and pour concrete at an angle, then lay the boards in such a way that there are small gaps between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all rooms of the bathhouse need ventilation: steam room, sink, relaxation room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, you should select in advance a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bathhouse and its operating conditions.

Experienced builders They do not advise carrying out complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods, which may be suitable for each individual case. Here the statement is 100% true that the simpler the better, and in terms of cost this option will be much cheaper.

The operating principle of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the entry of fresh street air, and the second allows the overheated and humid air to escape outside. How these windows are located in relation to each other largely determines which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the firebox will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths, instead of a single outlet, two are cut out, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

The dimensions of the windows are also of fundamental importance, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the lumen. To do this, special valves are attached to them, allowing you to cover any open cracks.

It is very important to produce correct calculations windows taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, the steam room simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature and more electricity will have to be spent. And if the windows turn out to be too small, then the intensity of the flow will be reduced and the air may become completely oversaturated with water vapor.

The size and location of ventilation windows primarily affects the entry and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from an overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room to 50 years and even more. The ventilation system option is selected individually in each case and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All ventilation options developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and combined.

Natural ventilation assumes that air change is carried out due to the unhindered entry of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of paired rooms and the removal of waste through special openings.

Forced The system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed for exhaust and much less often - for supply. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

Combined option as the name suggests, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, the most widespread is “bastu”. It involves the formation of a small hole with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind the stove or under it.

As additional elements Vents are installed above the stove, which are controlled using a valve and valve - it is through them that outside air enters through vents from the underground. Typically, the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, but as soon as there is a need to reduce the humidity level in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is not suitable in every case, so in some situations, installing an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this purpose, bottom part the box holds the fan. If you install it in the supply opening behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist, superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. WITH outside buildings, such openings are connected to each other by a special ventilation duct. Less commonly, an exhaust hood is installed in bathhouses, in which there is only one channel for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are installed at the same height from the floor level: one is located behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation forced ventilation.

The most unsuccessful method involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, bumps into the feet of those steaming. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such arrangement also occurs quite often when it is not technically possible to make holes on different sides of the room.

Materials

The choice of ventilation system for a bathhouse is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bathhouse is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bathhouse has common wall With living rooms, then ventilation must be treated especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must include a fan, which will help effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bathhouse can be connected to elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are installed directly in the walls, and later they are brought to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of buildings using the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of thermal insulation layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create supply and exhaust system ventilation. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with flaps.

In bathhouses built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to individual characteristics materials are installed in galvanized air ducts. To do this, they buy ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, having previously given them the necessary configuration and reliably sealed the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a Russian classic log bathhouse. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all rooms of the bathhouse, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem of creating optimal proportions between the air coming from outside and the air going out into the street often arises. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not “heat the street”, experts recommend additionally well insulating the bathhouse and equipping it inside thermal insulation material small holes with special valves that serve for flow in and out.

In wooden buildings, a burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately understand how many steamers will take bath procedures. If a bathhouse is being built for a small family, then you can simply design a small supply vent near the stove and an exhaust vent under the ceiling, but if the structure is aimed at a large company, then preference should be given to forced options.

How to make it yourself?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. You can carry it out in a bathhouse either on your own or with the assistance of specialists. To do this, you will need a work project, materials and tools, as well as a little effort and time.

What will you need?

To install ventilation ducts in a bathhouse, preparation is required. The following components will be needed for this work:

several ventilation valves;
valve;
metal grill;
mosquito net;
ventilation box;
corrugated air duct;
hygrometer;
fan;

thermometer;
metallized tape;
clamp;
polyurethane foam;
sealant;
fasteners;
decorative overlays for lining inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in the most various colors and textures, so purchasing the best option will not be a problem. Ventilation valves are installed on exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Valves are used to quickly open or close holes. They are made from the most various materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and strength of fixation they are in no way inferior to store-bought options.

Grille with mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier against insects and rodents, whose presence is extremely undesirable either at home or in the bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached to the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some people make the box themselves using corrugated pipes. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for paired rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform when exposed to high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used both for the supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially manufactured for Finnish saunas and baths. A thermometer and a hygrometer are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its operating indicators, open the supply valve or start the hood.

Layout for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some nuances installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bathhouse; it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the work has been completed. decorative finishing complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, but if the goal is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust opening with a diameter lower than that of the supply opening is strictly prohibited, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

The system must certainly have dampers and valves, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow the openings to be closed with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable dampers are also important because air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the time of year. In winter, when outside the window prevail negative temperatures, cold air masses penetrate more intensively into the bathhouse, which is why in autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross-section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conventionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are carried out with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too ventilated or vice versa.

Even at the bathhouse design stage, you should remember that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case warm masses air will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required heating areas. The hood openings should be located slightly below the ceiling level. This is due to the fact that warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed outside, and if the holes are located low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the overall microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since constant contact with water wooden surfaces after 3-5 years they lose their performance characteristics, therefore There are important requirements for a ventilated floor:

to create the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter between the boards;
the finishing floor must be laid above the level of the blower, which helps the stove begin to work as an additional hood;
after taking bath procedures you should leave front door completely open until the floor is dry.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to arrange ventilation here, since in such a room there is no direct contact with water. As a rule, a combined or natural way ventilation, when cool air enters inside through the supply channel and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the influence of a fan.

In addition, installation of ventilators is allowed here, which may require a network connection electric current and exit to the street.. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air exchange takes place here using an electric motor.

We organize an exhaust hood in an already built bathhouse

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation that was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bathhouse was heated - black or white - it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct steaming, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid out at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip a hood in an already constructed building.

To do this, you should punch holes directly in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is made in the area of the furnace vent, and the second - near the ceiling on opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bathhouse is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then creating openings and installing an exhaust hood will be much more problematic, since in the process of such work the integrity of the walls can be damaged in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bathhouse as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not do your own ventilation in bathhouses that are already in use. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles of creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bathhouse and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be met regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for the influx, the second for the removal of air masses. If you plan the exhaust in advance in a bathhouse under construction, you can avoid serious problems during the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam zone.

It is absolutely unacceptable for installed ventilation to create the following problems:

Properly organized ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath will ensure the maintenance optimal microclimate and a comfortable stay indoors, as well as more long term service of structural units (floor, ceiling, walls, shelves). There are several basic schemes for the ventilation of a steam room, but there are a number of mandatory points when implementing any of them. Before starting construction of the steam room, you need to carefully study different kinds air circulation systems and everything connected with them.

Do you need ventilation in a steam room?

Installing ventilation in a steam room means preventing many negative aspects:

carbon monoxide or smoke poisoning due to backdraft in the furnace
appearance of musty air
temperature drop in the steam room below the comfort level
gradual proliferation of harmful microorganisms
rapid rotting of wood structures

Types of ventilation

When designing ventilation for a steam room in a Russian bath, you have the opportunity to choose which type of system is suitable for your structure and its cost in terms of time and money. Based on the following factors:

proportions of the steam room and dimensions of the entire bath
availability of the ability to mark ventilation shafts as standard as possible
frequency of steam room use (rarely, regularly)
properties of the material used to construct the structure

you can decide which of the types of ventilation systems described below is suitable in each specific case.

Natural ventilation

Based only on the difference in pressure and temperature, without the use of any additional devices. She has following conditions and indicators:

economical
suitable for wood steam rooms
suitable for small structures
enhanced by the presence of cracks, with direct drainage in the floor or additional gaps in the walls (between logs or beams)
requires good insulation of the entire structure

The natural ventilation device is based on the general installation diagram of the air circulation system in the steam room.

Mechanical ventilation

It is distinguished by the presence of additional parts (built-in fan, valve at the air inlet, deflector on the outside of the pipe). Mounted if one of the following factors is present:

The main material used in construction will be: natural stone, foam blocks, brick
the steam room must be built with a volume of more than 18 cubic meters. m
it is not possible to comply with the standard for the location of natural ventilation
powerful, difficult to adjust oven

Combined ventilation

Contains both natural and mechanical ventilation systems. It is installed if natural ventilation in an already built steam room cannot cope and it is necessary to increase air circulation or control over air exchange.

In a steam bath, thermometers and hygrometers are used to control temperature and humidity levels. Based on their readings, regulation of the damper (in natural ventilation) and additional devices (in mechanical or combined ventilation systems) allows you to create comfortable conditions for staying in the steam room. In a mechanical and combined system, the main ventilation element will be a built-in fan. Creating forced ventilation requires careful familiarization with the types and models of fans and options for installation schemes of the system itself.

Fan for forced air exchange system

In the steam room, the air temperature can reach 130°C and the usual duct fan it will just melt. Therefore, it is necessary to use a device made exclusively from glass-filled polyamide. It will withstand both high temperature and high humidity.

The specific fan model is selected depending on the technical characteristics, hole diameter and mounting method. If financial capabilities allow, then it makes sense to install a fully automated system for ensuring the inflow and outflow of air in the steam room.

Ventilation schemes in the steam room

The bathhouse and, accordingly, the steam room itself are built taking into account the needs of the person who is going to use them. The size, location, and specific design of ventilation ducts must correspond to the volume, architectural design and building material used.

The operating principle of built-in ventilation in a steam room is based on simple laws of physics. Cold air, entering the steam room through the supply hatch, quickly heats up and rises to the ceiling, pushing the already exhausted hot air into the exhaust ventilation duct.

The basic layout of the air supply and intake channels in the steam room:

The inlet for air intake from the outside is installed above the floor level, preferably next to the stove.
The channel for the exit of used, contaminated air should be 10-12 cm below the ceiling.
For complete circulation of the air mass, it is advisable to place the ventilation ducts on opposite walls.
The dimensions of ventilation inlets and ducts must be the same and depend on the volume of the room.
Fire and sanitary safety standards require a complete change of air in the steam room after four hours.
The ventilation device in the steam room includes blinds at the inlet and outlet openings (to regulate the level of circulation).

There are many ways to construct ventilation in a steam room in a bathhouse. Let's look at the most popular schemes:

Option 1

the inlet is located immediately behind the stove, half a meter from the floor, with natural ventilation and a damper;
the hood is located in the wall opposite, no higher than 20-30 cm from the floor, with a built-in fan.

This scheme allows you to regulate uniform heating of the air and constant circulation.

Option 2

air enters the steam room through a ventilation duct with an outlet behind the heater (small distance from the floor, no higher than 20 cm, with natural ventilation and a damper)
outflow occurs through a hatch in the wall opposite (20 cm lower from the ceiling, with a built-in fan)

The principle of operation is very simple, since the air quickly heats up and is drawn by a fan through the entire space of the steam room. The disadvantage of this scheme is the weak internal air circulation.

Option 3

the air supply pipe is located in the wall opposite the stove (at a height of 30 cm relative to the floor, with natural ventilation and a damper)
a hood for air outflow is placed on the same wall with a supply hatch (30 cm below the ceiling level, with a built-in fan)

The scheme is suitable for those who do not have the opportunity to place exits on opposite walls of the steam room. This is the most unfavorable option for ventilation in a steam room and should be avoided.

Option 4

the air inlet is located on the wall opposite the stove (no higher than 20 cm above the floor, with natural ventilation and a damper)
a stove pipe is used for air outflow (the air is drawn out through the flood and the stove vent)

If the stove in the bathhouse is heated constantly, then such a scheme will be acceptable and will save on installing ventilation in the steam room.

Option 5

air comes from the hole behind the stove - heater (at a height of 20 cm above the floor, with natural ventilation and a damper)
air is drawn out through holes in the floor (you need a drain under the floor with access to the street and a vertical exhaust pipe connected to it, ending just above the ridge of the bathhouse)

This scheme is only suitable for steam rooms with direct flow of water from the steam room outside the bathhouse, but, like the previous one, it allows you to quickly install ventilation.

Option 6

the channel for air flow is located under the stove, with natural ventilation and a damper
air outflow occurs through a box located on the opposite wall from the heater. The channel starts 30 cm from the floor and ends with access to the street under the ceiling, with natural ventilation and a damper

The scheme has a separate name - Bastu, since it is a ventilation system for a Swedish steam room with an electric stove, which also functions perfectly in the steam room of a Russian bath. Bastu ventilation allows you to achieve uniform heating of the air and does not cause unpleasant odors rise, stretching them at floor level. This option is suitable provided that the air comes from the same place where it will go. Box exhaust ventilation must be fenced with wood to prevent the possibility of burns.

Signs of ventilation system problems and troubleshooting

When taking a steam bath, you must remember to monitor the proper functioning of the ventilation in the steam room.

Signs of proper operation of steam room ventilation in a bathhouse:

You can breathe easily in the steam room, despite the high temperature and humidity
the whole body warms up evenly and the air does not burn it

Signs of a faulty air supply and exhaust system in a steam room:

difficult to warm up, stabilize and hold desired temperature
condensation on the walls
cold air blows across the floor
the air is heated unevenly
mold or mildew formation
unpleasant, musty smell
breathing problems and headaches after visiting the steam room

Even the presence of several signs means a ventilation malfunction. To restore the necessary microclimate in the steam room, you will need to find the reason for the poor operation of the ventilation ducts.

Possible causes of the malfunction and their elimination:

Ventilation pipes are clogged - need to be thoroughly cleaned
The ventilation system is installed incorrectly - if possible, adjust the faulty system or remake it according to one of the above proposed schemes
Incorrect fan power selected - check specifications according to the volume of the steam room

With well-functioning ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath, the steaming process will truly become the key to good health and longevity.

State standards for room ventilation are regulated by SNiP 41–01–2003; the document establishes the minimum rate of air exchange in rooms depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

For a bathhouse, ventilation tasks become more complicated; it must additionally remove wet air(quick drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before small children, the elderly or large people undergo procedures. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bathhouse cools down on its own. By ventilating a room, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits the entire time people are in it.

Ventilation valve prices

ventilation valves

What types of ventilation are there and how to calculate them

Ventilation can only exist in cases where there is an influx of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often come across the concepts of “supply” or “exhaust” ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts; there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs naturally.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data takes into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions according to air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other harmful to health chemical compounds. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air changes per hour; it can vary from 1÷2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary air intake and removal, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then use coercive systems, supplying/extracting air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation; let’s look at them in more detail.

Prices for supply and exhaust ventilation

air handling unit

General rules for ventilation in a bathhouse

The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then through these same slots water can also be supplied. supply air, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bathhouse; when opened, they “turn” into exhaust vents. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the frequency of air changes.

Photo - stove firebox and open door for room ventilation

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is this kind of bathhouse that we will focus on in our article. Why do you need ventilation in the bathhouse?

For better air mixing throughout the entire volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature in height; the difference in values under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of acceptance water procedures.
To bring in fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the stay time does not exceed 20–30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in a steam room for a long time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they abandon ventilation altogether or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have Negative consequences, there is no need to neglect ventilation, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, temperature requirements in the steam room, materials for making walls and cladding.

In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, increase in carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, and warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of contracting colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors

The flow of fresh air into the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many diagrams of air movement on the Internet, most of them were made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Fulfill only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts diagonally in the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is just speculation; it can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, making it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One right under the ceiling, used only for complete ventilation of the bath after finishing the water procedures. The third is made 30÷40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse; they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts serve to connect several various rooms to the general ventilation system, it does not matter which one - natural or forced. This is completely justified from both technological and economic points of view.

What other rooms can be connected? ventilation ducts to the steam room? Weird question. Then, why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grilles with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation; we will not lay any ducts anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both “budget” and expensive exclusive doubles.

Prices for air vents

PVC air vent

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety and quite effective. Specific places The location of the ventilation openings should be taken into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. General rule– the openings should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the external walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the façade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger rather than smaller. In case of too rapid exchange of air, leading to a decrease in temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve appearance it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently.

We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We'll tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.

Somewhat complicates ventilation system, installation required electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There heat and air humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection housing from moisture, during connection you should strictly follow the recommendations of the PUE. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

Forced ventilation - elements

The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated and the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, and in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same effectiveness in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to calculate forced ventilation in a bathhouse and what type of ventilation it is? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article “. There is also a detailed step-by-step instruction on installation of ventilation and advice from professionals.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bathhouse do not provide for the flow of air through floor cracks, doors, windows or the furnace firebox. It is necessary to make holes for both air inlet and outlet. There is no internal or external wall cladding; the bathhouse is built from sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet channel is diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, the incoming air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an outlet hole in the ceiling. We are against such a solution; humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make your own grilles and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of the external and internal walls, think about how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances; only they can ensure smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - the holes on the outside of the bath should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, preventing moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.

Step 3. Make holes in the walls.

The most labor-intensive operation will have to be done manually. You need to pre-drill holes around the perimeter in the marked places. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to hollow out the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the beams remaining between the holes. The holes for ventilation should be made 1-2 cm larger around the perimeter than the pipe being inserted. The fact is that this pipe then needs to be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - you will have to cut the timber across the grain, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bathhouse, and the other half from the outside. if you have great experience using a gasoline saw, you can cut out the hole. But we immediately warn you that working with a gasoline saw in such conditions is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the tire while gripping the tree bottom the chain will pull the saw out of your hands. This method of using a saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to separate the inlet hole in the wall and in the bathhouse, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, and rectangular, they take up less space under the lining of the internal walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints between the elbow and the pipe with silicone and wrap it with tape for reliability.

Metallized adhesive tape

Step 4. Place foil or plastic film around the perimeter of the holes and mineral wool, the layer of cotton wool should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even; be careful that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should fit in with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to use foam around the perimeter of the hole and pipe. Polyurethane foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. As the foam expands, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will be automatically closed.

The exhaust pipe may not be insulated; warm air escapes through it. But we advise you to do all the operations for her, just in case. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will provide additional and reliable protection against the penetration of atmospheric moisture into wooden structures.

Once both holes are prepared, you can begin covering the walls and installing decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. When installing steam room ventilation, we strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil. The work is carried out according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Ventilation should be either constantly closed (during water procedures) or constantly open (during ventilating the bath). Using foil as a vapor barrier for walls has many benefits positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the sheathing and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Prices for hoods for baths

heat-resistant fan

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house using a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to the heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are sufficient.

Step 1. Select a bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling location.

Step 2. To ease the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill bit. Insert the crown into the shallow hole and begin drilling the beam.

Step 4. Drill as far as the crown height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool and do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the beam.

Step 5. The crown no longer works - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It can be removed quickly, start gradually chipping away the holes in the corners. Do not cut the log across the grain with a chisel; chop it only along the grain, this makes it much easier to do the job.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot get through one side of it, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You'll have to find the center yourself. To do this, install it in a drill thin drill along the tree, insert it into the existing hole from the centering drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more accurately you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Prices for annular drill for wood

hole drill bit for wood

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Heated sauna ventilation

Quite an original way of arranging ventilation; not only does fresh air flow into the bathhouse, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter; it not only improves the comfort of your stay, but also speeds up the heating of the premises and saves firewood.

Air is taken from the bottom of the bath and, with the help of electric fans, is supplied to the air intake duct.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, and air from the air duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heat the air coming from the air duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can improve the design a little. Place a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take in both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanded.