Insulating the ceiling cannot be called a complex and time-consuming process. Thanks to this work, it is possible to significantly reduce heat loss through the ceiling. To make a room warmer, you can use various types of insulation, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Today we will talk about ways to insulate the ceiling, and also get acquainted with the recommendations of experts.

Peculiarities

Noticeable heat loss, as well as cold air emanating from the ceiling, are the result of an incorrectly installed or low high-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through such a ceiling can reach up to 20%, since warm air rises and barriers are needed that will not allow it to leave the room.

It is recommended to insulate the ceiling during the construction phase of the house.. However, there are cases when owners for some reason do not carry out such work within the specified period. In addition, situations are not uncommon when old thermal insulation becomes unusable in an already built home. And in such conditions it will be possible to install insulation, but the work will be more difficult. On this moment There are several methods for thermal insulation of ceilings.

Many consumers are wondering why it is necessary to insulate the ceiling and whether such work can be neglected. To find out the answer to these questions, you should familiarize yourself with the main functions that insulation performs in this case:

• High-quality insulation materials have excellent sound insulation properties. Thanks to such elements, silence will always remain in an apartment or private house, even if there is rain and wind outside the window.
• Thanks to the installed insulating layer, the room will be warm in winter, since the heated air, rising upward, will collide with an obstacle and go down again.
• Ceiling insulation will also be useful in hot seasons. It will prevent hot air from entering the room, so it will remain comfortably cool.

It is also worth identifying situations in which ceiling insulation is necessary:

• Thermal insulation of the ceiling should be done if you have just started building a house. At this point, the ceiling consists of ordinary wooden beams. Then you can lay insulation between them and “sew up” it.
• You can also begin this work if the owners have already begun to settle into the house and the ceiling has long been ready. This is necessary so that living rooms it was not cold in autumn and winter.
• Thermal insulation of the ceiling is simply necessary if no one lives on the top floor of the house. As a rule, such rooms are always cooler. In such situations, heated areas lose their heat to unheated ones.

You should not think that thermal insulation of the ceiling can only be done when arranging a private home. It is quite acceptable to carry out such work in apartment buildings.

In such dwellings, all actions can only be carried out inside, and residents are prohibited from repairing attics and roofs themselves.

Currently, various materials are used to insulate ceilings. Each of them has its own performance characteristics, based on which you should choose suitable option for certain conditions.

Insulation requirements

Ceiling insulation must meet a number of requirements:

• It must be environmentally friendly and safe. Otherwise, you risk harming the health of your household.
• The insulation must be fireproof.
• Due to the insulating layer, heat loss should be reduced, and not the circulation of steam occurring in the house/apartment.
• The insulation should not get wet.

Types of insulation: pros and cons

There are several types of insulation materials. Let’s take a closer look at them and consider what their pros and cons are.

Mineral wool

There are several types of mineral wool:

• Stone. This mineral wool is made from igneous rock melts.
• Slag. This insulating material is made from molten blast furnace slag.
• Glass. This mineral wool is created from molten glass.

Stone wool contains ingredients such as gabbro or diabase, as well as blast furnace slag and batch. The mineral ingredients in basalt insulation include clay, dolomite, and limestone. These components are necessary to make the material more fluid. Formaldehyde in small quantities (2-10%) acts as a binding element in this composition.

Slag wool is characterized by a fibrous structure. This insulation is produced from waste from the metallurgical industry during the smelting of cast iron in blast furnaces. Slag fibers are distinguished by their small thickness and length.

In the process of creating glass wool, elements such as sand, dolomite, soda, lime, borax and broken glass are used.

Mineral wool can have different markings:

• P-75. This type of cotton wool has a density of 75 kg/cubic meter. m. This material is used to insulate horizontal non-external planes. This could be the attic or the roof. In addition, P-75 mineral wool is used for insulation of pipelines of heating networks, as well as oil and gas pipelines.
• P-125. Mineral wool under this marking has a density of 125 kg / cubic meter. m. It is used for insulating non-external bases located in any position. Material marked P-125 is also used for insulating floors and ceilings.
• PZh-175. This type of wool is used to process reinforced concrete or corrugated sheet floors.
• PPZh-200. Cotton wool PPZH-200 is used in the same way as PZH-175, but is more fire resistant.

Mineral wool has many positive qualities:

• It is distinguished by low thermal conductivity. Because of this, mineral wool is an effective insulation material.
• This material is recognized as fireproof.
• She is not afraid of temperature changes. Under conditions of overheating and hypothermia, mineral wool does not deform or lose its shape.
• Mineral wool is characterized by chemical and biological stability.
• Such insulation is distinguished by high vapor permeability, so it is “breathable”.
• Installation of mineral wool is quite simple and quick. It's easy to deal with House master, who does not have extensive experience in such work.

Despite its popularity, mineral wool also has some disadvantages:

• This material requires treatment with special water-repellent agents to reduce water absorption. By absorbing moisture, mineral wool loses its heat-insulating properties.
• Such insulation cannot be called light. Because of this, the cost of its delivery increases significantly.

Ecowool

As a rule, ecowool is impregnated special compounds, such as fire retardants and antiseptics. These components are necessary so that the insulation is not afraid of insects and rodents.

Let's get acquainted with the advantages characteristic of ecowool:

• It is environmentally friendly and safe for health.
• Ecowool is a “breathable” material that allows air to pass through perfectly. A room insulated with such material is comfortable even in hot summers.
• Ecowool does not rot and does not become moldy. Of course, such insulation will not rot if it is not oversaturated with moisture. Otherwise, ecowool may be seriously damaged.
• This type of insulation is durable. Even after many years, it does not lose its beneficial qualities.
• Ecowool can be supplemented or compacted.
• It is not a flammable material and easily extinguishes in case of fire.
• This type of insulation is easy to use, especially if we're talking about about insulation of the horizontal plane.
• Many people choose ecowool insulation, as it is homogeneous - it has no seams or joints.

The main disadvantage of this insulation is that the dry backfill cakes and settles over time. Because of this, it must be laid on the bases in a thick layer.

Styrofoam

This kind warm insulating material used everywhere. It is inexpensive and quite easy to install. Its structure is a special foamed mass, in which the main volume is gas. Because of this feature, the density of the foam is quite low.

For insulating the ceiling You can use foam boards of different densities. However, it is worth considering that not very dense materials require additional protective measures , since they cannot boast of sufficient strength characteristics. As a rule, loose materials are installed using a frame method.

Polystyrene foam is not an ideal insulation material; it has its drawbacks, which you should be aware of if you decide to use this material:

• This insulation has limited mechanical strength. After installation, it needs additional protection from external damage.
• Polystyrene foam is not a breathable material. It practically does not allow air to pass through it.
• This material quickly becomes unusable under the influence of nitro paints and other paint coatings with such a basis.

Penoplex

Insulating the ceiling with penoplex has its pros and cons. First, let's take a look at its strengths:

• Penoplex has low vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, this material does not absorb moisture.
• Penoplex is also characterized by low thermal conductivity.
• It can easily withstand significant loads, which indicates its compressive strength.
• Penoplex boasts for a long time service (up to 40 years).
• Installation of such insulation is simple and affordable.
• Penoplex is relatively inexpensive.

The disadvantages of penoplex include:

Penofol

Another popular insulation material is covered with foil. As a rule, it is used indoors and reflects heat.

Let's get acquainted with the advantages of penofol:

• It has a small thickness, but at the same time provides high-quality thermal insulation of the living space.
• Easy to install. For such work, special and expensive tools are not required.
• Penofol does not crumble or break.
• It is an environmentally friendly and safe material.
• Waterproof.
• Fireproof.
• It has excellent noise and waterproofing properties.
• It has an affordable price.

The main disadvantage of penofol is its soft structure. You can easily press on it, after which it will definitely bend. For this reason, finishing this layer with plaster or wallpaper will be impossible.

Perlite

Perlite or perlite sand is a popular material with best properties all effective insulation materials. It is very durable, inert and lightweight. Perlite raw materials differ in that they contain from 2% to 5% bound water. This material is inert, which is due to its chemical nature origin.

The main properties of perlite include:

• high thermal conductivity;
• sound absorption;
• water absorption.

Now it’s worth considering in more detail what advantages perlite sand has:

Sawdust

Sawdust is the cheapest and most accessible insulation material. They are used for both residential and commercial buildings.

Sawdust is the waste that remains when wood is processed. They are ordinary shavings or fine dust. Previously, such materials were widely used to insulate homes, but with the development of high technologies they faded into the background and began to be considered obsolete.

But do not think that sawdust is no longer used for insulating buildings; they are still used for these purposes. This is due to the effectiveness of sawdust, as well as its incomparable durability.

As for the disadvantages of sawdust, these include:

• easy flammability;
• sawdust may harbor insects or rodents.

In addition to sawdust itself, other materials that are produced on its basis can be used to insulate a home:

• wood concrete;
• sawdust concrete;
• sawdust pellets;
• blocks.

Expanded clay

You can insulate your home not only with cheap sawdust, but also with expanded clay. This material is enviably popular in our country, as it is inexpensive and has excellent performance characteristics.

Expanded clay consists of tiny granules with little mass. The granules contain pores, which make these elements as light as possible.

Let's get acquainted with positive qualities of this insulating material:

• Expanded clay is inexpensive and is available material– you won’t have to look for it for a long time in different retail outlets.
• A characteristic feature of expanded clay is its high thermal conductivity.
• This material is lightweight, so it is very easy to work with; it does not put any noticeable load on the base.
• An insulating layer consisting of expanded clay can serve without any problems for a long time(up to 50 years old).
• Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit hazardous substances.

This material also has its own disadvantages:

• Using expanded clay, it is very difficult to achieve complete soundproofing of a room. To do this, you will have to form a half-meter thermal insulation layer.
• Such insulation will require from the owners additional investments for protection against moisture.

Due to this drawback, using expanded clay for insulating old and damp buildings is strictly not recommended.

Clay

You can insulate the ceiling with clay. This material is inexpensive and environmentally friendly. It perfectly protects spaces from heat leakage. In addition, with such insulation the room will remain cool if the weather is hot outside.

Clay is easily diluted with water, and after drying it becomes very hard and retains heat well. Most often, this method of thermal insulation is used when treating large areas.

Let's figure out what advantages this environmentally friendly insulation has:

• It is inexpensive, and therefore has no competitors among analogues.
• It is a fireproof material - does not burn, does not support combustion.
• Insects or mice do not live in such insulation.
• The solution for ceiling insulation is diluted from fairly light fillers, which significantly reduces the load on the floors.
• Clay does not contain harmful impurities.
• This material is easy to work with. To do this, it is not at all necessary to hire professionals.
• The dried mixture can be used again. To do this you just need to wet it. Thanks to this feature, you can avoid large quantity waste after completion of all work.
• After adding water, the clay becomes very plastic and easily penetrates into any voids present in the base.
• After complete evaporation of moisture, the clay becomes hard. For this reason, there is no need to lay out flooring for walking on the attic floor.

However, at present, clay has been replaced by more modern thermal insulation materials.

There are several good reasons for this:

• Clay insulation is considered not the most effective. As a rule, this material is used only as an addition to the main insulation.
• To properly prepare a clay solution, you need to very carefully maintain all the required proportions. Otherwise, the heat-insulating layer may simply collapse or will not perform its main functions.
• Ready-made clay mixtures are heavy, so they should be laid only on stable floors that can withstand significant loads.

Installation methods

You can install the insulation yourself. This work is done in two ways. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

From inside the room

Experts do not recommend insulating the ceiling in the interior of the home. With such work, you will not only reduce its height, it can also lead to the insulation material itself and its fumes entering the room. In addition, in such cases, fungus and mold may appear on the insulating material.

If you have no choice, then you should consider some restrictions:

• do not use mineral wool to insulate the ceiling indoors;
• leave a small gap between the insulation and the finishing coating of the ceiling.

To insulate the ceiling in the interior of the room, penoplex or penofol are perfect.

According to experts, working with penoplex is quite easy. First you will need to nail the sheathing onto which the plasterboard sheet will then be attached. Pay attention to the height of the sheathing beam. It should be 2-3 centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation.

There should be a step between the slats equal to the width of the insulation (approximately 1-2 mm). After this, you need to lay an insulating coating between the sheathing. It should fit into the right places with slight effort. In order for the insulation to adhere well to the ceiling, it should be attached using dowels.

At the end of the work, sheets of plasterboard are attached to the sheathing. Thus, it turns out a kind of suspended ceiling. If you do not want to install regular drywall, you can also install a tensile structure.

To install penofol, it is also necessary to prepare the frame. Next, you will need to put insulation on it (with the foil side facing the inside of the room). Insulation material can be nailed to frame structure nails. Gaps should be left on both sides for ventilation, so you will need to install a second sheathing on top - sheets of drywall will be attached to it. In this case, you can also turn to a suspended ceiling.

Outside

Insulating the ceiling from the outside of the room involves laying insulation not from below, but from above the ceiling (or into voids, if any). In this case, the installation technology largely depends on the base material.

For example, for wooden floors It is better to use lightweight bulk options, and for concrete slabs more impressive insulation materials with greater weight are also suitable.

Let's take a closer look at how to properly install insulation on the outside using mineral wool as an example.

For wooden floors

For concrete

In this case, the base needs to be thoroughly processed and leveled, removing all bevels and potholes.

• Then you need to attach the vapor barrier film.
• The mineral wool will be hemmed on it.
• Next, the finishing material (cardboard, plywood, wood) is attached.

Choose insulation for cold roof follows several criteria:

• Room type. For different conditions fit different insulation materials. For example, for a loggia and balcony, mineral wool, penoplex, isolon or polystyrene are more suitable, and for an attic or attic - basalt insulation or polyurethane foam. For spaces with increased level humidity, it is worth choosing moisture-resistant insulation materials, otherwise they will quickly become unusable.
• Base material. For wooden floors, you should buy lighter insulation materials. For concrete foundations, you can purchase materials that can bear heavy loads.
• Environmental friendliness. Experts recommend purchasing only environmentally friendly and safe types of insulation.
• Fire safety. Select non-flammable insulation materials that do not support combustion.
• Manufacturer. Contact only well-known manufacturers, producing high-quality and durable products.

If you decide to install ceiling insulation in your home yourself, then you should listen to the advice of experts:

• Do not neglect the installation of waterproofing when laying insulating material. This will avoid the formation of condensation on the base, which can then reach the insulation.
• If you need to insulate the first floors of a low-rise private building, then you should use penoplex for this.
• It is possible to insulate the ceiling on the top floor only from the inside of the home, despite the fact that this method is not recommended by professionals.
• If you decide to use sawdust for insulation, then you will need to check whether they are dry or not. To do this, you should walk over them before installation. Dry material will bend and crunch.
• An attic that is insulated on all sides and also equipped with heating is not an attic, but an attic. Acceptable insulation materials for such areas are indicated above.
• If you are installing penofol, then you should not use fasteners that need to be nailed, this method can negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of this material. It is better to purchase insulation with an adhesive backing.

• After laying the insulating material (especially if it is tiled) on the base, you should always seal all the cracks and joints. Most often, polyurethane foam is used for this.
• If you work with mineral wool, then you definitely need to use protective equipment - gloves and a respirator. Once fixed, this material will be safe, but during the process of laying and cutting it, tiny particles may become airborne, which will irritate the mucous membranes and also cause itching on the skin.
• The insulation must be fixed as securely and efficiently as possible. To do this, use various fasteners, slats and twine.
• Insulation in the form of slabs can be attached to the ceiling using glue. To do this, it is permissible to use a reliable composition for cement based. Home craftsmen leave good feedback about this installation method, since it seems easier and faster to them.

Insulation of the ceiling surface is relevant not only for private houses, but also for apartments. This is especially true for premises located on the top floors. As warm air rises, heat loss through the ceiling and ceiling reaches up to 20 percent. Ceiling insulation allows you to solve the problem of low temperatures in an apartment in winter time and heat in summer. In addition, the thermal insulation materials used absorb sound waves, therefore increasing the comfort of living in the apartment and protecting from noise coming from above.

Principles of insulating the ceiling in an apartment

Before you properly insulate the ceiling, you need to decide on the material.

When choosing a heat insulator, pay attention to the following requirements:

1. The material should be light in weight so as not to unnecessarily load the floor.
2. Insulators must be environmentally friendly and harmless, that is, they must not release toxic substances into the air.
3. It is good if the product is not susceptible to mold and other microorganisms. This is especially important for apartments with frequently leaking roofs and for rooms with high humidity.
4. The heat insulator must be resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
5. For installation in damp places, it is better to choose moisture-resistant insulation.
6. Fire resistance is also important. The insulator should not emit caustic smoke and toxic compounds during a fire.
7. Consider the ease of processing and installation if you plan to do the work yourself.
8. Choose insulators that do not interfere natural air exchange ceiling surface and ceiling. This will protect structures from condensation accumulation and subsequent destruction, as well as a decrease in technical characteristics.

All thermal insulation materials used are divided according to their physical state into solid, sprayed and fibrous.

Basic methods

Insulation of the ceiling in an apartment can be done from inside and outside the room. Last option Suitable only for housing located on the top floors.

The first method has two disadvantages:

• after installing the insulation on the ceiling, the height of the room will decrease;
• internal insulation is not as effective as outdoor installation heat insulator (this is due to the collection of condensate on the concrete floor and its freezing).

However, if it is not possible to lay insulation on the outside of the concrete floor, then the only option left is to perform internal insulation.

Insulation from inside the room

Insulation concrete ceiling the inside is made using expanded polystyrene (foam plastic and its extruded variety), basalt wool and mineral wool. Depending on the density of the material, frame or frameless insulation technology is used. By frameless method basalt wool and expanded polystyrene are installed, and assembly of the sheathing is required if mineral wool is used.

Expanded polystyrene

The following types of foamed polystyrene are suitable for thermal insulation measures:

1. Pressless foam- the cheapest type of expanded polystyrene. Its structure contains granules and pores different sizes. This material has high water absorption and different densities. Its thermal insulation characteristics are not as high as those of subsequent varieties.
2. Pressed polystyrene foam It has closed pores, so it better protects against heat loss. The material is durable and dense.
3. Extruded variety of polystyrene also has small closed pores in its structure. This is a product with the lowest thermal conductivity.

Insulating the ceiling in an apartment with penoplex, that is, extruded polystyrene foam, provides the following advantages:

• high thermal insulation efficiency;
• ease and speed of installation;
• resistance to deformation;
• acceptable price;
• waterproof;
• due to the low weight, the floors are not overloaded;
• durability (will last up to 30 years);
• the surface is not affected by mold and rot;
• impact noise absorption.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are considered to be their easy flammability, although extruded products are self-extinguishing. In addition, polystyrenes are not chemically resistant, so when choosing an adhesive for gluing to the ceiling, you should not buy compounds with solvents that are aggressive to the foam. Foamed polystyrenes do not protect against airborne noise and have low air permeability.

Specifications:

• water absorption - from 0.4% to 4% (the highest for conventional foam);
• vapor permeability – from 0.019 to 0.015 (the best indicator for extruded polystyrene foam);
• strength – from 0.4 to 1 kg/cm³.

Mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. Only two types are suitable for insulating apartments:

1. Glass wool is considered budget option insulation. Since the material releases small glass fibers into the air, it is not installed indoors. But glass wool is suitable for external insulation of floors.
2. Stone wools have a higher density than the first type and are characterized by mechanical stability. Rocks, such as basalt, are used to make them. Basalt wool Due to their high strength and density, they can be mounted using frameless technology.

Important! Because the stone wool They are fire resistant and are allowed to be used in places with a high fire hazard.

The minimum thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.041, the density of the material is in the range of 20-220 kg/m³. The vapor permeability of the insulator is 0.48.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• waterproof (this only applies to basalt wool);
• low thermal conductivity;
• the material does not interfere with air circulation;
• the product is resistant to chemicals;
• high thermal insulation rates;
• fire resistance;
• durability;
• harmlessness and environmental friendliness.

Only non-stone mineral wools have disadvantages. So, the disadvantage of glass wool is its strong dusting. In addition, when these insulation materials get wet, their thermal insulation properties decrease.

External installation of thermal insulation

External insulation of an apartment is carried out if there is a higher technical floor or attic space. It is important that the communications laid in the technical floor do not interfere with the implementation of this insulation option. Otherwise, you will have to abandon external installation.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling from the outside is most often carried out using expanded clay, but the materials listed above are also suitable. Usually they are laid between rows of joists, the height of which is equal to the thickness of the insulation. Vapor and waterproofing must be used. The heat insulator is covered with a boardwalk on top so that when walking on the technical floor or attic the heat insulation layer is not damaged.

Expanded clay

This is a product of processing shale clay. The granules are exposed to heat, after which their surface is sintered, and the material becomes porous from the inside, which gives the product high thermal insulation characteristics. Typically, expanded clay of different fractions is used to insulate a concrete floor from the outside. Optimal size granules 10-20 mm.

Advantages of expanded clay insulation:

1. The material is not flammable and does not support combustion. No granules are released harmful substances in case of fire, do not melt or drip. Therefore, we can say that expanded clay has absolute fire safety.
2. Expanded clay is very light, so after installation there are no unnecessarily high loads on the floor.
3. The product is resistant to mold and other microorganisms. It is not damaged by insects and rodents. In combination with hardness and strength, this ensures long-term operation of the heat insulator.
4. The material is easily laid on the ceiling without the use of special devices, which allows you to install it yourself.
5. Reasonable price is one of the advantages of insulation.

Among the disadvantages of expanded clay, it is worth mentioning the dust that is observed during transportation and installation. The hygroscopicity of the granules is also considered a disadvantage. Because of this, after getting wet, they lose some of their thermal insulation qualities. Therefore, after laying expanded clay, a waterproofing layer must be laid out, which makes it possible to level out this shortcoming of the material.

Cost of insulation

Prices for ceiling insulation work vary and depend on the materials used and installation method. Since laying insulating material involves various preparatory and basic work,

/ How and with what to insulate the ceiling in an apartment from the inside?

How and with what to insulate the ceiling in an apartment from the inside?

Residents modern houses Often they are faced with the fact that the standard panels from which they are composed do not always withstand severe frosts. We have to insulate our apartments additionally. Residents of the upper floors are familiar with another problem - cold ceilings. It is more difficult to insulate them. Usually, doing this from the outside is problematic; you have to insulate the ceiling in the apartment from the inside. Let's look at how to do this in more detail.

Basic materials

Among all the materials that can be used in the case of insulating a concrete ceiling from the inside of an apartment, several of the most popular stand out. Each has its own characteristics.

Styrofoam. It retains heat well, but it also has a drawback - it is quite fragile, and you need to be careful when installing it. In addition, the foam structure may be too bulky for an apartment. However, insulating the ceiling with foam plastic from inside the apartment is quite popular.

Polystyrene. Also, like polystyrene foam, it can be fragile. It is much thinner and will take away less height from the walls. Installation can be one of the simplest - the slabs are simply glued to the concrete base. The same can be done with foam boards. The cost of both of these materials is quite low.

Mineral wool. In terms of cost, it can be even cheaper than polystyrene with foam. However, to achieve good performance heat conservation, a sufficiently thick layer is required. In addition, to install this insulation, you will need to assemble a frame, inside of which it will be laid.

. Oddly enough, even such a thin layer of decorative finishing material will help retain some heat. There will be two advantages here - the ceiling will become more beautiful, and the thermal insulation will improve. In terms of cost, these tiles are very affordable.

Work order and basic principles of insulation from the inside

Insulating the ceiling in an apartment is somewhat different from the same operation in a private house. Here, the height of the premises will, as a rule, be lower, and different materials must be used.

If the ceiling slab is fairly flat, you can do without constructing a special frame for the insulating layer. This solution is especially relevant when using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as insulation.

These materials are simply glued to the floor slab tile adhesive. Others can be used adhesive compositions. The main requirement for them is high joint strength and the possibility of use with foam plastic.

Additionally, slabs of such insulation are fixed with special dowels having a wide plastic cap.

To avoid condensation, it is necessary to carefully ensure that the seams and joints of these glued materials are filled with polyurethane foam.

After pasting, outer side The insulating layer is either plastered or hidden behind a suspended ceiling.

With mineral wool it will be much more difficult. Although some of its varieties can be glued to the ceiling, the outer layer of finishing needs to be attached to something, and it cannot be attached to cotton wool. It is necessary to construct a frame foundation.

With its construction, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the apartment with mineral wool begins. It’s worth talking about all the intricacies of this process separately. Moreover, the basic principles will be the same for the construction of frames for any type of insulation.

Insulation with mineral wool

As already said, it all starts with assembling the base. But, before you begin its installation, you need to mark and lay all communications. Doing this later will be problematic.

The marking starts from the lowest corner of the room. When such an angle is found, from ceiling slab the distance required for installation of the frame base is given off. Usually, at least ten centimeters are required. This is enough to place a sufficient layer of insulation.

The mark must be moved to all other corners of the room and connected with a straight horizontal line. It will serve as a guide for all subsequent operations. The easiest way to make a line is using a marking cord.

After this, we go to ceiling surface. On concrete base, it is necessary to mark all the places where the hangers are attached to which the remaining parts of the frame will be attached.

You can begin assembling the base. You should start with the parts that are located on the walls around the perimeter of the room. Next, hangers are attached to the ceiling slab.

You can insert longitudinal parts of the frame. They are located in suspensions so that they are all in the same plane. The easiest way to control their position is to use a thread stretched from corner to corner. If necessary, you can string several cords across the room.

The last to be mounted are the transverse parts of the structure. When the last one is fixed in place, you can fill it with insulation, but first you need to do something else.

Insulating a concrete ceiling from the inside of an apartment can lead to an increase in the humidity level in the room. Mineral wool can absorb moisture, which reduces its ability to retain heat. To avoid this, you will need to cover the insulation layer with a special film -. It is sold in construction stores.

Having covered the insulation, you can begin the final finishing.

The outer covering of such ceilings is usually either plasterboard or various types of panels that are attached to the same frame.

Conclusion

Almost anyone can insulate the ceiling of their apartment from the inside. There are no particular difficulties here, and minimal skills in handling tools are required.

After insulation, you still need to make an outer layer of finishing. To do this, you may need to invite a specialist. But, in most cases, you can handle everything on your own.

Large heat losses in the room and cold air blowing from the ceiling are a consequence of incorrect or poor-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through the ceiling can reach 20%, since the heated air rises, and if there is no obstacle on its way that can keep it indoors, it will be “blown out”, just like your budget. Ceiling insulation measures must be carried out during the construction of the house. But if for some reason this did not happen, or the old thermal insulation has become unusable, you will have to do everything again. What are the ways to insulate a ceiling, how best to implement them in this or that case, what materials to use - these are the main questions that arise for owners. At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly so that the insulation does not become damp, condensation does not accumulate on the surface, and mold or mildew does not appear. And for this it is necessary to understand the very essence of the work performed and the processes occurring in the insulation.

Why and how to insulate the ceiling

What is meant by ceiling insulation? If it blows from above, from the side of the ceiling, we say “we need to insulate the ceiling,” but what actions are meant by this? In fact, there are several technologies, and which one is suitable in each specific case depends on the starting conditions.

In a private house, the ceiling insulation is always done from the upper room: be it the attic, the next floor or the attic. Laying thermal insulation material on top of the ceiling or in the voids of the ceiling ensures heat retention inside the room. At the same time, the height of the insulated room does not decrease, additional finishing of the ceiling is not required, and there is no need to install thermal insulation directly above the head, because it is not so easy to fix, and particles will penetrate into the living room. But the most important thing is that the processes occurring in the ceiling and thermal insulation material ensure warmth and dryness of the room and materials, condensation does not form and the insulation does not get wet.

What is the principle of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. All modern thermal insulation materials are essentially air enclosed in one way or another in a form. But how can you use air for insulation without paying for it? Our ancestors acted very wisely when they built houses with a gable roof and an extremely cold attic, which had two windows in the gables. Our climate allows us to play this situation to our advantage. Gable roof It retains snow well, which is also insulation. A roof covered with snow retains heat so well that even if it is -25 °C outside, the temperature inside the attic is about 0 °C. The air trapped in the attic is an ideal insulator, the characteristics of which can be changed depending on the time of year or weather by opening and closing gable windows and ventilating the room. The attic floor was always insulated with bulk natural materials, together with the air, this made it possible to maintain the temperature inside the heated room at +20 - +25 °C. Another advantage of insulating the floor in the attic is that the material does not become damp and can be dried by ventilating the room.

Extremely important! In order for the attic to serve as a heat insulator, the roof slope cannot be insulated from the inside. This will cause the snow on the roof to melt and icicles to form on the eaves. In addition, the structure of a non-insulated roof is always open for inspection and repair.

Important! An attic that is insulated on all sides and has heating is no longer an attic. This is an attic, more suitable for the climate of warm countries Western Europe. The design and operation of the attic has its own rules.

In an apartment in a multi-story building, things are a little different. It is not possible to insulate the ceiling or floor of the upper floor. And the problem of a drafty ceiling most often occurs among residents of the top floor. What to do? The only option is to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room, although this is not recommended, there is no other choice.

When insulating the ceiling, it is important to remember this rule: each subsequent layer in the direction from the room must have greater vapor permeability.

Below we will look separately at ways to insulate an attic from the outside and inside.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (from the upper room)

Insulating the ceiling from the upper room involves laying heat-insulating material on top of the ceiling or in its voids, if any. As mentioned above, this is done in private houses and cottages. The type of insulation material and the technology for laying it depend on whether the floor is wooden or concrete. For flooring on beams, which is a wooden floor on joists, lightweight backfill materials or roll-type materials are suitable. But for insulation concrete slab- dense mats or slabs, as well as heavy backfill materials.

One of the most ancient and time-tested methods of ceiling insulation is insulating the attic with sawdust. In some regions, you can buy sawdust for next to nothing or even get it for free if there is a woodworking plant nearby. Quite often, the company itself does not know where to put the sawdust, so stop by and take it at least every year. It is better to pour sawdust on top of wooden floors.

The only drawback this method the fact that the sawdust burns. Therefore, several different methods of insulation with sawdust have appeared.

Method 1. All the cracks in wooden floor coat the attic with clay, a little liquid. Sprinkle sand on top. If the clay suddenly cracks somewhere, sand will immediately be poured into the crack, and the integrity will be preserved. To protect sawdust from mice, add a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbide. Next comes the main layer - sawdust. For different regions the thickness of this layer can be different, but the minimum is 150 - 200 mm, 250 - 300 mm is considered optimal. Since sawdust is a flammable material, a thin layer of waste slag is sprinkled on top of it, especially around hot communications - a chimney, for example. Nothing is laid on top. You can only lay out the boards for ease of walking in the attic.

Method 2. The floor surface must be protected from moisture. This can be done in two ways: the first is to lay a waterproofing film on the wooden floor that can allow steam to pass through from the side of the room, the second is to coat the entire floor with clay in the same way as in the first method. Then you need to mix sawdust with cement. To do this, take 10 parts of sawdust, approximately 1 - 2 parts of cement and 1.5 parts of water. First, sawdust is mixed with cement, then water is added. The sawdust must be slightly wet for the cement to adhere to it. The resulting mixture can be poured from above onto the attic floor or poured between the floor beams onto the subfloor. A layer of 200 mm will be enough. It is necessary to start doing all this work in the spring, so that the sawdust and cement have time to dry well over the summer (they take a long time to dry).

Important! It’s easy to check whether the sawdust has dried or not: just walk on it. Dried sawdust will not sag, but will slightly crunch.

Method 3. Similar to the second method. Only instead of cement, clay is used.

Method 4. Similar to the first method. There is no need to sprinkle slag on top. The sawdust can be spread on top with clay, only not very liquid, so that it does not spill deep inside.

Considering that expanded clay is a rather heavy material, it is not recommended to insulate wooden floors with it. There is too great a risk that wood flooring may fail. Ceilings with concrete floors are insulated with expanded clay.

First of all, the surface of the concrete floor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It should be laid with an overlap, and the joints should be taped. An overlap is made on the walls, approximately 40 - 50 cm. Wooden rafters and the chimney also need to be covered with a vapor barrier film.

Next, crumpled clay is placed on the film. And already on top - expanded clay. For better thermal insulation, use a mixture of large and small fractions of expanded clay. Then the fine grain will fill the voids, and the backfill will be more uniform. For cold climates, the expanded clay layer should be 50 cm. The 15 - 20 cm recommended in some sources will not save the situation. It is precisely because expanded clay needs to be covered in such a large layer for high-quality thermal insulation that it is rarely used.

A light cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is placed on top of the expanded clay. The solution should be thick enough so as not to spill deep into the backfill. This way, the attic will have a fairly strong floor, and it can be used for storing something or as a boiler room. A big plus is also the complete fire safety and environmental friendliness of this method.

Clay - ancient construction material, the scope of which is diverse and multifaceted. Clay itself is not used in insulation, since for effective thermal insulation its layer must be simply colossal - 50 - 80 cm. It cannot withstand such a weight wooden ceiling, and such a backfill thickness is simply impractical, it’s better to choose modern material.

Therefore, to insulate the ceiling, clay is used in a mixture with sawdust.

First, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier film that does not allow water to pass through. Next, you can prepare a clay-sawdust solution. Water is poured into a large barrel, to which 4 - 5 buckets of clay are added. The clay is then mixed in water until the water turns a dirty color and the clay almost dissolves. Next, part of the resulting mixture is poured into a concrete mixer and covered with sawdust. As mixing progresses, more water is added. As a result, the solution should be neither liquid nor thick.

An excellent option for insulating the ceiling in the attic of a wooden house is reed mats. Modern reed mats, tied with twine or wire, are simply laid staggered on top of the floors. It is better if there are 2 layers, the second of them will overlap the joints of the mats of the first layer, removing “cold bridges”. The disadvantage of this method is the fire hazard.

For those who want to insulate the ceiling with natural materials, seaweed is suitable. In coastal regions, this material can be bought for pennies, and if you really want, you can order delivery to another region. The advantage of seaweed ladders is that they do not harbor mice, they are hypoallergenic and even medicinal, as they are saturated with iodine and sea salt, the vapors of which are beneficial, and also do not support combustion and do not smoke. Insects and microorganisms do not grow in algae.

Seaweed is not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor. The ladders are laid directly on the ceiling or floor in a layer of 200 mm. You can install a floor on top or lay boards for ease of movement.

Ecowool or cellulose wadding- a modern material that is positioned as natural. To reduce flammability, it is treated with fire retardants or boric acid. Ecowool absorbs moisture, so there is no need to lay a vapor barrier film.

Ecowool is laid immediately on wooden or concrete floors. This requires a special blowing installation, thanks to which all the cracks are blown in, the insulation layer becomes monolithic and saturated with the air contained inside. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but in colder regions it is better to make 400 - 500 mm.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with ecowool sometimes includes spraying water. It is needed in order to speed up the process of lignin formation. Then after 1 - 3 weeks a crust appears on top of the ecowool. Due to the fact that this material tends to cake, it is always necessary to take a margin of 5 - 15%.

Penoplex is a representative of the family of extruded polystyrene foams. This material is stronger than polystyrene foam, which means it can be used to insulate concrete floors before pouring a concrete floor on top. A good option for insulating the ceilings of the first or second floor of a low-rise private house.

It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with Penoplex if the floors are wooden. The fact is that EPS is absolutely not a “breathable” material. As a result, moisture will accumulate in wooden structures, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Before laying Penoplex on a concrete floor, the latter must be checked for unevenness. First the surface is leveled, only then can it be laid vapor barrier material.

Then the Penoplex slabs are laid out. Be sure to take a running start. They are attached to the surface with special dowels with a mushroom cap. The joints between the plates are filled with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, a cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is poured on top. It will serve as a durable floor for the attic or second floor.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool (Ursa)

The most popular modern material for ceiling insulation is mineral wool. One of the manufacturers of thermal insulation materials based on minerals or fiberglass is the Ursa company, whose product range includes both rolled items and rigid slabs.

Ursa mineral wool in rolls is good for insulating wooden floors; it is convenient to lay it between beams. But rigid mineral wool slabs are used for thermal insulation of concrete floors, although it can also be used for wooden floors.

Ceiling insulation with Ursa is carried out as follows:

For wooden floors. A vapor barrier material is laid between the floor beams. Its installation is mandatory, since mineral wool is afraid of moisture. The film is spread with an overlap, and the joints are taped, an overlap of 15 - 25 cm is made on the walls. Next, rolls of Ursa mineral wool with a thickness of 100 to 250 mm are laid between the beams, depending on heat loss calculations. The material must enter the space with force. To do this, it must be cut with a small margin of 2 cm more than the distance between the beams. Then there are two ways: the first - you can leave the mineral wool open, but then it will be impossible to walk on the floor, the second - you can make a wooden floor on top, leaving a gap of 3 mm between the mineral wool and the floor boards. The advantage of mineral wool is its fire safety.

For concrete floors. The concrete surface is leveled and then covered with a vapor barrier film. Mineral wool slabs are laid on top, always spaced apart. Next, a wooden floor or flooring made of boards, plywood, etc. is installed. It is not recommended to screed over mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which means that the main rule of thermal insulation will not be observed.

Ceiling insulation with foam (polyurethane foam)

Polyurethane foam is a modern material that is advertised everywhere as the most ideal insulation for ceilings and attics. The advantages of this material are non-flammability, good adhesion, neutrality to microorganisms and insects, waterproofing and soundproofing properties, resistance to temperature fluctuations, and the absence of cold bridges. The disadvantage is complete vapor tightness; this has a bad effect on the microclimate of the room.

Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out only by an organization specializing in this. The material is sprayed under high pressure so that it is blown into all the cracks and envelops protruding elements - columns, etc. The layer is usually 10 - 12 cm.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

An extremely undesirable measure is to insulate the ceiling from inside the room. In addition to reducing the overall height of the room, there is an extremely high risk of heat-insulating material or its evaporation entering the room, as well as the likelihood of mold and mildew appearing in the insulation. But if there is no other way out, you will have to at least take into account a number of restrictions: do not use mineral wool and form ventilation gap between the insulation and the ceiling finish.

Ceiling insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)

EPPS is a good option for insulating a concrete ceiling. First, the sheathing is nailed onto which the drywall will later be attached. The height of the sheathing beam should be 2 - 3 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the slats should be equal to the width of Penoplex minus 1 - 2 mm. Next, the insulation is stuffed between the sheathing; it must fit in with force. For greater reliability, it must be secured to the ceiling with dowels. Then plasterboard is attached to the sheathing and a suspended ceiling is obtained. Instead of drywall, you can install a suspended ceiling.

Penofol is foamed polyethylene, one side of which is foil-coated. Its thermal insulation properties are not that great, but if the heat loss is not too great, it may be sufficient.

It is necessary to fill the ceiling with a lath, to which Penofol is attached, with the foil side facing the room. It can be nailed to the sheathing. It is necessary to create a ventilation gap on both sides of this material, so another sheathing is placed on top of it, to which drywall is attached. A stretch ceiling option is also possible.

The second way to insulate a ceiling with Penofol is to use it in combination with Penoplex.

In addition to the Penoplex insulation method described above, Penofol is applied to the sheathing, and only then plasterboard.

Insulation of the ceiling with heat-insulating plaster mixtures

For some unknown reason, the option of insulating the ceiling with special thermal insulation plaster mixtures is not popular. But in vain. This is an excellent material for insulating concrete ceilings. Plasters are absolutely environmentally friendly, decorative, do not suffer from moisture and steam, do not burn and are not afraid of fungus or mold. Among the materials from UMKA there are items that can be used indoors.

Insulating the ceiling with white agglomerate of cork tree bark is an environmentally friendly natural method of insulation. It is convenient to use cork when installing an Armstrong-type suspended ceiling, attaching it to the sheathing. The use of a vapor barrier is not necessary, since cork is not afraid of moisture.

The methods of ceiling insulation described above are the most common, but the general list does not end there. There are many other natural and synthetic materials that can be used to insulate the attic of a private home. When choosing this or that method and material, be sure to take into account the overall concept of your home. For example, insulating the ceiling of an environmentally friendly wooden house with Penoplex or Penofol is at least stupid. To keep the wood dry and give it the opportunity to “breathe,” you need to choose natural, vapor-permeable materials, such as seaweed, reeds, sawdust or ecowool. And for a house made of concrete, foam concrete or brick, EPS and polyurethane foam are perfect.

From the author: Hello, dear reader. Tired of being cold? Today we will tell you how to solve this problem in an effective way. We all know from our physics course that warm air always tends upward. Therefore, quite a lot of precious heat escapes through the ceiling. This is especially true for those living on the top floor and in private houses. Today we will look at how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment.

Before getting started, let's say a few words about the choice of material that can be used to insulate the ceiling from the inside or outside.

Material selection

The modern building materials market offers a great variety of insulation materials. It will be more convenient to present what you can find in construction stores in the form of a list:

• expanded polystyrene;
• polyplex;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• penoizol;
• Styrofoam;
• polyethylene foam;
• expanded clay

And this, by the way, is not yet full list. The choice of material depends on the budget, personal preferences of the homeowner and other factors that need to be briefly discussed. The fact is that insulation from the inside involves lowering the ceiling. In apartments where the ceilings are high, for example, in “Stalin” buildings, the understatement will not be felt. At least, not as significant as in a Khrushchev building or a standard nine-ten storey building.

In such houses, the ceilings are not particularly high, but the insulation will take a few more centimeters from this height. Whether this is critical for you or not is up to you to decide.

In general, the option in which saving height would be appropriate is the option in which a suspended ceiling is not used. It is logical that in this case you apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, after which you install a mesh that will, in the literal sense of the word, be pressed into the insulation. Then everything follows the standard, “classical” scheme: leveling, priming, painting.

If the deadlines, as they say, are “burning,” it is worth insulating with polystyrene foam. When working with this material, things will go as quickly as possible. But compared to alternative options, insulation with foam plastic is quite expensive. Now we’ll talk about various insulation materials, their properties, and also find out how to work with them.

Installation methods

Just first you need to say a few words about the methods of insulation on the top floor. There are only two of them. You can insulate yourself:

• from the inside;
• outside.

In apartment buildings, the first method is most often used - from the inside. Certainly, perfect option- lay insulation on the technical floor above the apartment, but often this solution is not possible. The fact is that there are communications laid on the technical floors, which must be accessed by an employee of the housing maintenance office. Therefore, communications cannot be touched - there are fire safety rules and all that.

In what cases can installation be done from the outside? - the residents of apartment buildings will ask. But homeowners living in the private sector have probably already guessed that the attic of their home is the most suitable place for this. In your house, you are the only owner, that’s why he belongs to you. By the way, one of the options for insulating the attic in your home is sawdust. It may not sound reputable, but do not underestimate this method.

We have successfully resolved this issue. Let's move on.

Choice of material. Insulation from the inside

The problem of choice for people of the 21st century is quite acute. This also applies to the choice of building materials. Now we've come to one of the the most important issues today's article. Now we will briefly familiarize ourselves with the materials offered by modern market and, most likely, this will help you make your choice. So, here we go:

Styrofoam

This is what is called a “classic of the genre.” As we have already noted, there are several ways to use this popular material. Its main features are low thermal conductivity (which is very useful for insulation), as well as low vapor permeability.

The material is non-toxic (unless, of course, you set it on fire) and is easy to install. To work with this material you will need: foil-coated isolon, polyurethane foam, a gun, a knife for cutting cardboard, a jigsaw/hacksaw, a drill, a hammer, dowels, glue, a screwdriver. Well, actually, polystyrene foam. The room temperature when installing insulation should be 5–30°C - special conditions not required.

Fix the isolon (NPE/PPE). In this case, the foil, “mirror” side should be directed inward. Now we install the foam. There are no recommendations on which corner of the room to start installation from. This is not laminate or parquet, so start where you like. The main thing is to cover the entire area.

Fastening is done using glue and subsequent fixation with dowels at five points on the sheet: four in the corners, the fifth in the middle. You can, of course, rely solely on glue, but for a more reliable fixation, you should use dowels.

Delatation gaps are not needed here. Again, polystyrene foam is not flooring. The gaps that remain between the sheets must be filled using polyurethane foam. Now we wait for the foam to dry, after which we cut off the excess that protrudes beyond the edges with a cardboard cutting knife - and you can begin finishing the ceiling.

When finishing, as a rule, they use decorative panels, which are attached to the slats. Where the ceiling comes into contact with the wall, a PVC skirting board is installed. Yes, this is a fairly common finishing method, but personally I know a better way.

The ceiling plinth is certainly a great invention of mankind, but it has one significant drawback: sooner or later there will be a need to wipe it. But it has such a structure that the more you wipe it, the dirtier it will become. In addition, it is quite easy to damage.

There is a worthy alternative to ceiling plinth - this floor plinth white. Simply mount it on the top in the same way as if you were installing it for its intended purpose - on the bottom. In addition to the fact that it will serve you significantly longer than ceiling plinth, it has cable channels where, if necessary, you can hide a wire that does not need to be visible.

Basalt/mineral wool

No less popular insulation. Sold in slab form or rolled into rolls. The cost will be slightly cheaper than the previous option, but be prepared for the fact that during installation the cotton wool will not be as convenient. Although I think it's obvious.

When purchasing the material, check with your sales consultant to see if the cotton wool requires special conditions when working with it. For example, is it necessary to provide a vapor barrier (usually it is necessary) or something else. If you have chosen mineral/basalt wool to insulate your home, you will need to do the following:

Make wooden frame, glue the cotton wool itself into the “interprofile” space. For this it is better to use glue for tiles. Electrical cables are laid along the surface of the material. On final stage Sheathing is done using plasterboard. To fix the sheets, I recommend choosing self-tapping screws made from hardened steel. Such fasteners have increased strength, so they are more reliable than conventional self-tapping screws.

There is another installation method that is applicable to hard types of mineral wool. For example, this includes cotton wool type PPZh-200. After fixing, the mesh is installed, then puttying/leveling is performed.

After the “rough” layer of putty has dried, you can apply the final layer of putty. Afterwards you need to sand and prime, and then start painting. As we can see, theoretically, nothing complicated, but this process itself is quite labor-intensive.

It would be appropriate to say a few words about what problems and misunderstandings, dear residents of the top floors, you may encounter when working with mineral wool.

In no case should mineral wool be pressed or wet (even by accident/even a little/even if you really want to, etc.) - because of this, the material loses its thermal insulation properties and becomes unsuitable for use.

If you plan to install spotlights in the ceiling, then, naturally, use energy-saving lamps and leave a gap between them and the mineral wool itself.

Insulation from outside

Now information useful for homeowners living in the private sector. Well, for avid summer residents too. The good thing about the option of insulating from the outside is that you can use literally any insulation - it does not require fixing to the ceiling. In the first half of the article, we briefly mentioned sawdust as insulation. So, this is from this series.

But those who have not heard of sawdust usually use the same “classic” materials: mineral/basalt wool, polystyrene foam, and expanded clay. Now we will look at how the installation process itself happens.

Styrofoam

• we take measurements;
• clean the surface of any debris;
• lay polystyrene. Be prepared for it to hit your pocket. In principle, they can do without it;
• we lay sheets on the floor of the attic and then fix them;
• fill the gaps with foam.

Ready. Now you can begin installing the attic floor, because it is not designed to be walked on. Lay down boards or OSB - then you can fully use the attic as a storage space. Or even arrange a recreation room or billiard room there. Lately, many homeowners have been converting the attics of their homes into living spaces.

Mineral/basalt wool

Everything here is similar to the method of insulating a room from the inside. Only even easier. There is no need to attach the cotton wool to the ceiling. Therefore, we build a frame and lay a vapor barrier layer. As a rule, glassine plays its role. Then we lay the mineral wool itself, after which we install the attic floor and implement our bold design solutions.

I would like to say a few words about preventive measures. Whatever material you use for insulation, be sure (!) to check everything bearing structures for the presence of rotten areas. The check should be carried out very carefully - using an awl with a long edge, since the board may be intact on the outside, but rotten on the inside. Pierce each joist along its entire length. If you find a rotten area, it must be replaced. Be sure to check the roof. If it leaks, fix the leak. We remember that mineral wool cannot be wet under any circumstances.

And further: wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic. Fungal colonies (mold) are not only harmful to health, but also gradually destroy your home. So .

Expanded clay

Also a good option. Expanded clay is based on low-melting clays. It has a porous structure and relatively light weight. Although, when compared with previous options, it is not so small. This is a universal and reliable insulation material that has been used in construction for a very long time.

So, let's get to work:

• . For this, regular film and/or roofing felt is suitable. If necessary to cover large area- more than 15 m², the material is laid overlapping - ±15 cm;
• We glue the joints of the roofing felt with rubber bitumen mastic. The film can be glued with ordinary tape;
• layer 15–20 cm;
• Fill the screed/install the wooden attic floor. You can, of course, do it without this, but for the full use of the attic space it’s worth trying.

That's all for today, dear reader. Good luck, see you again!