Insulation of wooden houses from the outside. Subtleties of insulating wooden houses from the outside. Types of insulation for wooden structures

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Thermal insulation of houses is carried out not only to reduce heating costs and reduce heat loss. High-quality insulation wooden house outside allows you to keep the rooms comfortably cool in hot weather. This reduces the need for and, accordingly, energy consumption. It has been proven that external thermal insulation, is much more effective than internal.

Wooden houses also need insulation And

Insulation of a wooden structure can be done in two ways:

  • create a screen that can protect from the wind;
  • use an additional layer of insulation.

The use of the first option allows you to significantly reduce costs during the heating period. For this purpose, lining is often used, the connection of the elements of which creates a complete fabric. But such material is susceptible to cracking and deformation. In addition, it is difficult to install and is also quite expensive.

The most common option for thermal insulation of a house, protecting against cold and bad weather, is siding, equipped with an additional base for insulation.The effectiveness of the material will increase significantly if a layer of insulation is placed under it.


Review of high-quality insulation for the home: how to choose the right insulation

Modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of all kinds of materials that allow you to insulate external walls:

  • bulk insulation materials;
  • fiberglass wool;
  • basalt wool;
  • foam polymers such as polystyrene foam, penoizol, polystyrene foam.

Related article:

Bulk heat insulators for insulating a wooden house from the outside

They are environmentally friendly, as they are not capable of releasing toxic substances during operation and are made from natural materials:

  • vermiculite - formed during the processing of rocks, has the form of porous granules with air layers;
  • expanded clay – baked clay having a different grain fraction;
  • perlite crushed stone – porous granules of volcanic glass, with a density reaching 100 kg per cubic meter.

With the characteristics of these insulation materials wooden houses outside, can be found in the table below.

Table 1. Characteristics of materials for insulation of wooden houses

ImageType of insulationVapor permeability, Mg/(m*h*Pa)Thermal conductivity, W/(m*S)Loading density, kg/m3
0,28 0,16 251
0,28 0,13 200
0,22 0,22 801
0,4 0,09 101
0,28 0,13 200

As you can see, the thermal conductivity of bulk heat insulators is almost the same, the only difference between them is the price. All of them have excellent vapor conductivity, facilitating the free release of moisture from the walls. In addition to steam conductivity and high environmental friendliness, these materials have the following qualities:

  • resistance to high temperatures reaching 1100 degrees;
  • the durability of materials is equal to the service life of the building itself;
  • not attractive to rodents;
  • resistant to moisture;
  • do not cake over time.

Disadvantage bulk materials is weak thermal conductivity, which provides for the insulation of houses in regions with warm climates.

Mineral wool

The material is the result of processing metallurgical waste or rocks such as dolomite or basalt. It is different:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • durability of operation;
  • non-flammability;
  • high strength;
  • sound absorption;
  • elasticity;
  • ease of installation;
  • affordability.


For thermal insulation, roll material or basalt slabs are used. Such insulation is ideal for brick, gas and foam concrete, as well as wooden buildings.

You can work with the material at any temperature, which is very convenient for insulating external walls. The most common application is the insulation of wooden houses from the outside with mineral wool under siding.

For your information! Practice shows that finishing seams with mineral wool can provoke the formation of condensation due to the circulation of warm air.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)

It belongs to modern polymer insulation materials and is widely used in construction. This material is characterized by:

  • low thermal conductivity of no more than 0.051 W per m2;
  • weak water absorption;
  • high windproof and sound insulation performance;
  • durability, its operational period is more than 50 years;
  • environmental cleanliness.

It is also worth noting the low weight of the material, which reduces transportation costs and installation costs. Thanks to this quality, the walls do not experience loads, which eliminates the need to strengthen the foundation.

Another advantage of the material is its low cost, which makes it possible to insulate external walls. In this video, one person is insulating the outside of a house with polystyrene foam with his own hands due to the lightness of the material:

Extruded polystyrene foam

An innovative heat-insulating material, in the manufacture of which nanoparticles of graphite are used, which contribute to increased energy saving and durability of the product. The thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is 0.029-0.032 W per m2.

In addition, the material is resistant to chemicals and mold, has high sound insulation and is not afraid of rodents. These qualities make it possible to use penoplex for external insulation of a wooden house.

Note! When thermally insulating wooden houses with siding, it is necessary to use a material with air permeability. This eliminates additional protection of the seal from moisture.

Related article:

Penoplex: technical characteristics. By selecting slabs of suitable thickness, you can ensure a sufficient level of thermal insulation of walls, floors, and ceilings. Let's talk about this insulation in more detail in our review.

Polyurethane foam

The material has a cellular foam structure filled with air. This significantly reduces the thermal conductivity coefficient, amounting to a maximum of 0.042 W per m2.

Due to the high adhesion of the material to any surface, a sealed coating is formed, guaranteeing excellent water and vapor barriers. High elasticity, combined with seamless technology, make it indispensable for insulation. frame walls and blown-in thermal insulation, as well as for complex configurations. The insulation is applied at any temperature, and its durability reaches 30 years.

The disadvantages include too high price polyurethane foam, as well as the need to use special equipment.

Calculate the thickness of insulation

In order for the insulation of a wooden house from the outside to be effective, it is necessary not only to select a heat-insulating material, but also to correctly calculate the required thickness, which will depend on the ability to resist heat.

This is the exact opposite indicator of thermal conductivity, the coefficient of which is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. To calculate the heat transfer resistance coefficient, there is a formula:

R=d/k, Where

d– corresponds to the thickness of the material, and k– its thermal conductivity. The higher the value obtained, the higher the thermal insulation efficiency will be.

Insulation allows you to reduce heat energy loss through floors, walls, and roofing. Insufficient thickness of insulation can lead to a shift in the dew point inside the room, which leads to the formation of condensation, which provokes the appearance of fungi, as well as dampness. Too large a layer of material is not capable of leading to significant temperature changes, but it forces significant financial expenses, which is irrational. To save money by providing optimal conditions, it is necessary to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation.

There are often situations when the walls in a wooden house lose one of their tasks, such as retaining heat. In this case, they resort to insulating the walls of the house from the outside. The insulation becomes protection against cold air.

This solution to the problem also has several other advantages: the wall of the building gains additional protection from sun rays and dampness and will last longer.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

External insulation of a house has several advantages:

  1. The main thing among which, of course, is keeping warm. This type of insulation prevents sudden temperature drops. The wall, reinforced from the outside, maintains high thermal protection.
  2. Unlike internal insulation, with external insulation there are no zones in which there is no heat, the so-called “cold bridges” since with this type of insulation it is possible to install heat-insulating material in the places where the ceiling adjoins the external walls.
  3. External insulation also prevents moisture from penetrating the walls of the house.

Do not forget about the disadvantages of external insulation. This process of insulating wooden houses is quite complex and time-consuming.

Insulation methods

There are several types of insulation:

  1. The insulator is mounted on the wall using an adhesive solution.
  2. Facade ventilation. The wall is protected with waterproofing, insulation is attached to the top, a wind deflector is installed, and then sheathing with siding or other material is installed on the frame.
  3. Three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with mortar, the outer wall is mounted in one brick, while maintaining the air gap.

It is natural that Each type of material has its own subtleties in execution. It should not be excluded that there are combined insulating materials or materials for which you need to adhere to your own developed technology.

Which material is better?

There are several types of materials for thermal insulation, and before deciding which insulation would be best for you, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics. So, let’s figure out how to insulate the walls of a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

The most common material. It has a fibrous structure, which is formed as a result of spraying molten glass, rocks, and slag.

The advantages of mineral wool insulation include good throughput, heat resistance, high stability rate, guarantees noise protection, high service life.

But this type of insulation has significant drawback- mineral wool may release phenol, dangerous to humans.

Windproof boards Izoplat

Isoplat is a fibreboard made from coniferous tree fiber without the addition of chemical components and glue. Such boards are natural and effective like wood itself. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 12 mm slabs = 44 mm solid wood. The slabs are available in various thicknesses. In addition to excellent insulation properties, they provide additional sound insulation.

The advantage of Izoplat is that the material does not deform over time, does not wrinkle or tear. In addition, being a “breathable” material, Izoplat protects walls from fungus and mold.

Installation of the slabs is very easy - press them against the wall and nail them. On top there is a ventilated façade. Such insulation of a wooden house can be easily done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

Polyurethane foam

A type of plastic filled with gas. Has a cellular structure and is filled carbon dioxide, air or other gases.

The advantages of polyurethane foam are high thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, high waterproofing properties, high safety, and non-toxicity. The disadvantages include low fire resistance. Also the material is quite expensive and ages over time, which has a bad effect on its thermal insulation properties.

Basalt slabs

Manufacturing method: rock melt. Advantages - high vapor permeability, Availability water-repellent properties, chemical and biological resistance, sound insulation.

The big advantage is that it is harmless. This insulation is environmentally friendly. The only downside is that high price.

Expanded polystyrene

A material filled with gas, like polyurethane foam. It is obtained from polystyrene and its derivatives. This material is vapor-permeable, absorbs water well, biologically stable, long service life. These are definitely advantages.

The downside is that it is highly flammable, which makes it quite a dangerous material.

The most popular material for external insulation of wooden houses. It has a cellular structure because cells are insulated, polystyrene foam has good thermal insulation, which is definitely a plus.

Foam insulation also provides good sound insulation, no need for additional waterproofing, ease of installation and durability.

Like all materials, polystyrene foam also has its disadvantages: it is unsafe because... When burning, caustic substances are released, has low strength.

When choosing a thermal insulation material, you should pay attention to its service life and safety. You should approach the choice of material for insulation responsibly and study all the pros and cons. Preference should be given fireproof and environmentally friendly materials.

We insulate a wooden house with our own hands

Insulation technology begins with the installation of a frame on which the insulation will lie.

The bars are nailed to the wall being treated made of wood measuring 50x50 mm, keep in mind that the distance should be no more and no less than 580 mm. The material must be laid so that there are no gaps between the wall and the bars.

Next stage - providing vapor barrier. For this, aluminum foil, polyethylene film or vapor barrier film are used. There is no need for vapor barrier if the house is made of round timber.

When the plane is smooth, slats are stuffed onto which a vapor barrier layer is mounted. It must be taken into account that Between the slats below and above there should be a stomata of 20 cm in diameter for ventilation. The places where the vapor barrier material is attached are sealed with adhesive tape to protect it from moisture.

After the vapor barrier stage comes the thermal insulation stage. The material must be installed so that there are no cracks or gaps between the frame boards. The material is laid in two layers of 50 mm each so that the joints of the first layer are aligned with the middle of the second.

For the secondary layer of thermal insulation the bars are nailed across walls, perpendicular to the main row of the frame.

Next is waterproofing. The waterproofing film should Easy to pass steam and retains water well. The waterproofing layer is applied to the heat insulating layer. It is nailed to the frame.

Next is the stage of installing the secondary layer of the frame. The first layer (on top of the waterproofing layer) is filled with slats 50 mm wide and 30 mm thick.

The subsequent layer of the frame is installed for free movement of air between the vapor barrier layer and the sheathing so that moisture that gets on the waterproofing layer is dried.

The space formed below must be covered tightly metal mesh from the penetration of rodents and insects.

At the last stage, the house is sheathed with appropriate material (siding, lining, façade panels and others). It should be taken into account that wall thickness will increase by 20-25 cm and accordingly, you need to think about protecting the insulation from the side of the window openings.

How to insulate the outside walls of a wooden house with your own hands and what is better?


How can you insulate wooden house outside? How to do it yourself correctly? Types of material.

Proper insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Before you insulate a wooden house from the outside, you need to correctly select all the materials. A wooden building has its own characteristics. The first thing to remember is why wood continues to be so popular. There are several reasons for this:

  • good thermal performance;
  • ensuring a comfortable microclimate in the building;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • safety;
  • ability to pass air (wood “breathes”).

The insulation of a wooden house from the outside should be chosen so that all materials do not reduce the beneficial properties of wood. But sometimes this can be difficult to do. To choose a good insulating material, you will need to spend your time and study basic information on the issue.

Pie wall

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the composition of the wall. After this you can start selecting all necessary materials. The technology for insulating a wooden house from the outside requires the following layers:

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to protect the material from moisture. Many types of thermal insulation are destroyed or cease to perform their function when exposed to water.

Choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? The most popular materials on the construction market are:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages that need to be considered before deciding how and with what to insulate your own home.

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands in this case will be the cheapest option. It can be bought almost everywhere. There are different types depending on the strength. Polystyrene foam has good thermal insulation properties, but the disadvantages include:

  • flammability;
  • low strength;
  • instability to mechanical damage.

Insulation for the walls of a wooden house of this type is not recommended for one reason: foam plastic practically does not allow air to pass through. This means that all the beneficial properties of wood, for which it is so valued as a material for building cottages, come to naught.

Insulating a wooden house with polystyrene foam is a rather pointless procedure. Yes, the room will be warm, but the temperature and humidity conditions will be disrupted due to lack of ventilation. Natural air exchange indoors is blocked, arrangement required forced ventilation or air conditioning systems. Both options involve additional (and not small) costs, both during the construction process and during the operation of the building.

Also, polystyrene foam needs careful protection from moisture. Manufacturers claim that insulating wooden walls with foam does not absorb water, but this is not true. The polystyrene balls themselves are resistant to moisture, but it can accumulate in the space between them. Freezing water expands. The well-known law of physics does not apply here: water is the only substance that increases in volume as the temperature rises.

As water expands inside the material, pressure increases. This will eventually cause the foam to disintegrate into individual balls in the first or second winter. To replace external insulation you will have to put in a lot of effort and spend money.

For all of the above reasons, insulating the walls outside of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is not recommended. But you can consider using it for other structures, for example, basement and attic floors. In this case Special attention worth paying attention to waterproofing. The reason for this recommendation has already been stated.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you can consider using Penoplex. It is the closest relative of polystyrene foam, but lacks most of its disadvantages.

First of all, insulating wooden houses with such material is more durable. Penoplex is resistant to stress and mechanical damage. The second positive property is moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture. This insulation for walls and ceilings can be used even without vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The advantages also include:

  • high energy efficiency;
  • ease of installation;
  • ease of processing;
  • safety and environmental friendliness.

But the disadvantage again is poor air permeability. Without additional ventilation, the greenhouse effect in the house is guaranteed. Read more about insulating a wooden house with Penoplex.

It is not recommended to use Penoplex for outside houses, but it will be an ideal option for floors. This material is not afraid of stress. It's enough to do it on top cement screed thickness 30-50 mm. Can be used both for the floor of the first floor and for attic floor. Also very often, polystyrene foam is purchased for insulating floors on the ground.

Penoplex floor insulation scheme

Thanks to its resistance to moisture, you can do without insulation. But for wet rooms (bathroom, toilet) it is recommended to install waterproofing. Such additional measures will protect the ceiling and insulation from water in case of various leaks. We recommend that you familiarize yourself in more detail with the principles of floor insulation with Penoplex.

Mineral wool

What insulation is best to protect the walls of a building? The answer here will be clear. Both for an old wooden house and for a new one the best option will become mineral wool. It not only allows you to preserve the beneficial properties of wood, but also smoothes out its shortcomings.

If you insulate the outside walls of a wooden house with mineral wool, you can prevent a fire. The bulk of materials from this group are non-flammable. This property distinguishes cotton wool from polystyrene foam and penoplex.

Insulating walls in a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool conducts air well. When using it, there is no need to resort to additional ventilation measures: with the right choice of finishing material, the walls will continue to “breathe”. But this very finishing needs to be given special attention, otherwise you can ruin everything at the last stage.

The main area of ​​application of the material in a wooden house is walls and roofing. It is strongly not recommended to place cotton wool in ceilings. It has fairly low strength and shrinks over time. This will lead to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics and damage to the floor structures. You can insulate the attic floor structure with mineral wool. It will also be very effective to insulate the roof with mineral wool.

You can insulate the walls of a wooden house using different types of material:

  • Stone (the most common option is basalt). Available in slabs and has the highest rigidity compared to other types. Working with this type of insulation is quite convenient. It is safe and easy to cut.

Stone wool

  • Glass. Available in rolls (mats). Its rigidity is not so high. The disadvantages include inconvenience during installation. Glass fibers can cause a lot of discomfort for workers: they penetrate the lungs and get on the skin, causing severe itching and irritation. Before insulating an old wooden house (or a new one) with such material, you need to prepare a set of protective clothing: a suit, a mask, gloves.

Glass wool

  • Slagova. The cheapest and least desirable option. This type of thermal insulation is made from industrial waste. Low-quality cotton wool or a fake will pose a real harm to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house, since it may contain hazardous substances. Such insulation for the external walls of a wooden house should only be purchased from trusted, responsible suppliers who are responsible for the quality of their products.

Slag

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? It is important to firmly remember one thing: the vapor barrier is installed from the side warm air, and waterproofing on the cold side. Both external and inner material can be produced in the form of films and membranes. For a wooden building, it is recommended to choose last option. The films practically do not allow air to pass through, while the membranes “breathe”.

Layout of steam, wind and moisture insulation layers

Before insulating the outside of an old wooden house, it is worth checking the condition of the walls, ceilings and roof, and, if necessary, strengthening them and protecting them from mold and mildew. A set of such measures will extend the service life of the building. Also, the insulated structure must be cleaned of dirt and dust.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside: not difficult and not expensive


Proper external thermal insulation of the walls of a new or old wooden house requires strict adherence to technology. We will talk about it in this article.

How to properly and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

KakPostroit.by > Exterior decoration > How to properly and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside?

The popularity of houses made of wood is only increasing every year. And for good reason. This is due to the ease and speed of construction work, as well as excellent thermal insulation properties material. However last fact does not at all exclude the advisability of insulation, especially in areas with harsh climates. How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what? Advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances Doing this kind of work with your own hands will be discussed further.

Insulation options

Insulating a wooden house from the outside has many advantages:

  • the dimensions of the internal rooms remain unchanged;
  • absence of debris and dust indoors;
  • there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any interior work;
  • additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
  • for old houses that have lost their attractiveness, insulation is an opportunity to refine and transform appearance buildings.

Note! Improper performance of work on insulating a wooden house from the outside can lead to mold, damage and rotting of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to business guarantees a high-quality, desired result.

Despite constant discoveries and developments in the field of construction and building materials technologies, 3 options for insulation materials have firmly established themselves on the market:

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own characteristics and disadvantages, which are extremely important to take into account. A detailed examination of each material will allow you to decide how best to insulate a wooden house.

Mineral wool, insulation features

Mineral wool is compressed particles artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for a log house, and is not subject to deformation. This material has proven itself in construction and is widely used for insulating the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool can confidently include:

  • ease of installation;
  • environmental friendliness of the material, its harmlessness;
  • guarantees additional protection against fire;
  • democracy, affordability;
  • durability;
  • the structure does not deteriorate and does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
  • the material has high temperature melting, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is better than many.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages, although they are few:

  • necessity additional funds protection (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
  • does not protect the surface of the log house from the development of fungus and mold;
  • It is hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier is required.

When choosing mineral wool as insulation, take into account the following tips:

  1. Before insulation, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
  2. Completely eliminate the possibility of moisture penetration into the mineral wool. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then insulation and a layer of waterproofing.
  3. The material must be mounted over half of the previous sheet of material; spaces between the elements are not allowed.
  4. Additionally, you can limit the movement of mineral wool using anchors.
  5. You can use not only mineral wool, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Polystyrene foam as insulation

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, you can insulate a wooden house with your own hands using polystyrene foam. Outwardly it looks like a cluster large quantity airy, foamed plastic balls. In terms of insulating qualities, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is in no way inferior to mineral wool.

The advantages of this material include:

  • simplicity and ease of installation;
  • lightness of the material;
  • dense surface that is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
  • increased soundproofing qualities;
  • resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
  • significant service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is its unnaturalness and low fire resistance.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam is no more difficult than with mineral wool. Quite the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transported and adjusted to the required dimensions by cutting. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

  1. The material must be laid end-to-end.
  2. To treat gaps at the joints of expanded polystyrene sheets, a diffusion membrane is used. It is attached to the surface using a stapler directly to the light.
  3. The diffusion membrane must be a minimum of 10 cm wide to ensure complete isolation of the foam joints.
  4. Use tape to connect the membrane pieces.
  5. Despite the resistance of polystyrene foam to moisture, a waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders are categorically against using polystyrene foam as a thermal insulator. Because when not proper organization work, it will accelerate the development of fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good gap between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Insulation with penoplex (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a brother of polystyrene foam. It also has a cellular, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but technical specifications exceeds its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to easily insulate a wooden house with your own hands. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

  • increased technical characteristics;
  • good surface strength;
  • does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
  • perfectly retains internal heat;
  • does not respond to changes in external temperatures;
  • ease of installation;
  • environmentally friendly material;
  • does not burn;
  • will please for a long time services.

The disadvantages of penoplex are as follows:

  1. The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
  2. The need for high-quality protection from ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
  3. Sensitive to solvents and other similar substances.
  4. Easily damaged by rodents.

As for the insulation process, it is identical to polystyrene foam.

Note! Required condition insulation with penoplex - the presence of a ventilation space between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

External log house insulation technology

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, step by step:

  1. Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them of dirt and treat them well with a special antiseptic solution or primer.
  2. Seal gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with foam. Once the foam has dried, cut off the remains with a sharp knife.
  3. Damp walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait until the surface is completely dry.
  4. To lay the vapor barrier layer, make a sheathing of wooden slats. The pitch between the slats should be 1 m. The lathing should ensure the presence of ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of drops of moisture on the wood with subsequent rotting and damage to the wall surface.
  5. Install vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or roofing felt. Attach the vapor barrier to the slats, and seal the fastening points with tape to seal the coating.
  6. Make a frame for the heat insulator, also using 40x100 mm wooden planks. Insulation will be installed in its grooves. Therefore, to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the slats should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden planks are installed only on the edge.
  7. Using a building level, ensure the evenness of the sheathing to avoid the appearance of bumps, gaps and other defects.
  8. Place insulation into the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
  9. The next stage of the “pie” is laying a layer of waterproof and windproof membrane. It must be secured with nails or a construction stapler to a wooden frame. Again, treat the joints with tape to seal them.
  10. The final stage is installation decorative finishing on the facade of the house. Use siding, lining, brick or other building materials for these purposes.

  • Insulating a wooden house from the outside: how to properly insulate it and what is the best way to insulate it


    Instructions for insulating a wooden house from the outside with various materials. How to make it correctly with your own hands, and the better.

How and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside - selection of materials and installation rules

It would seem that the question is quite simple - the methods have been worked out for a long time, and the choice of thermal insulation products is significant. But we are not talking about any building, but about a wooden house. Regarding its insulation, there are a number of nuances that cannot be neglected.

It's all about some of the features of this building material like wood. First of all, this is its susceptibility to rotting, its ability to “breathe” and retain heat well. The last two properties allow you to maintain comfortable indoor conditions, as a rule, without significant additional costs. For example, for the purchase (and professional installation) climate control equipment, due to increased consumption of energy resources (including fuel for the boiler). At least, the indicated devices are not used as intensively in wooden houses as in buildings made of brick or cellular concrete. So, let's consider in detail how and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house.

Helpful information

To make the technology of work clearer, it should be explained why insulating the outside of a wooden house is the only right solution. This method of reducing heat loss is the main one for any buildings, as it has a number of advantages. For example, it does not reduce usable area. This is precisely one of the disadvantages of arranging this protective layer from the inside. But for a log house something else is more relevant.

It's all about the so-called “dew point”. External installation of insulation takes it outside the perimeter of the house, and condensation forms in the ventilated space. Consequently, in cold weather the tree does not freeze, and in warm weather the process of rotting does not begin. If insulation is laid on the walls of rooms, then the “point” moves inward. As a result, the logs (beams) remain unprotected, and condensation settles in the thermal insulation material, which initiates the development of mold and mildew not only in it, but also in the rooms.

How to insulate a wooden house

If you look into it in detail, the choice of materials is not that big.

Expanded polystyrene boards

They are distinguished not only by their correct geometry, but also by their “rigidity”. Therefore, to fix them, the base must be carefully leveled. It is still acceptable for timber, especially if the walls were erected by professionals. What about logs? In addition, foam plastics do not allow moisture to pass through, but also air. Therefore, the main attractiveness of a wooden house - microclimate regulation - will be completely neutralized.

Sprayable compositions

Typically polyurethane. There are even more disadvantages, and you will also need special equipment. But the companies providing this service (for PU insulation) are silent about one more thing significant disadvantage– low maintainability of the layer. After all, it sticks to the surface on which it is applied. If you can literally “pick it out” from brick or reinforced concrete, then what about wood? After all, it is quite susceptible to mechanical stress, and damage to logs or beams in this case cannot be avoided.

There are other types of insulation for wooden buildings, which the authors of some articles recommend using. But all the listed materials (chipboard, flax fiber, etc.), taking into account the specifics of the log house and in terms of durability, are hardly worthy of attention.

Insulating a house from the outside - how to do it

Surface cleaning

This is where any repair or finishing work begins. For a wooden house, the initial inspection is especially important. It is necessary to identify all areas of wood damage, determine their nature, methods and means for eliminating defects.

Treatment with special/preparations

For a wooden house, both fire retardants and antiseptics are equally relevant. Features of their use and recipe are indicated on the packaging. It is clear that it is advisable to do this in positive weather and clear skies.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Its main purpose is to ensure the wood’s ability to self-regulate its microclimate and at the same time protect the material from direct contact with moisture. There are many types of films and membranes on sale. If the first option is chosen, then it is necessary to take into account that all samples differ in their design, and therefore in the specifics of use. The film is cheaper, but the usual modification made of polyethylene cannot be used for vapor barrier. It is sealed and does not allow air to pass through along with water. It is worth considering when choosing products.

Mounting on outside a wooden house is quite simple - using a construction stapler (staples). You just need to take into account that the strips must be installed with a slight overlap, and the joints must be covered with adhesive tape.

Construction of a supporting frame

It is also called sheathing. What is its peculiarity in relation to a wooden house? The coefficients of thermal expansion of the materials being held together should be taken into account. Metal slats are much more convenient to install, but since the house is made of wood, it is not practical to use them. Only wooden blocks appropriate length and section.

The dimensions of the seats (cells of the sheathing), as well as its design, are selected based on the geometry and design of the insulation. Mineral wool is sold in slabs or rolls, so it is not difficult to draw up a pattern for laying samples.

Another nuance concerns fasteners. Self-tapping screws should not be used for the sheathing fixing elements. They “tightly” grab the supporting structure, but this should not happen. The wooden house somewhat “plays” under the influence external factors(a feature of the material), so fastening the sheathing to it is done only with nails.

What to consider

The reliable position of the insulation is ensured by the fact that during the process of laying in place the samples are slightly compressed. Then, thanks to their elasticity, they straighten somewhat, which determines their reliable “coupling” with the slats of the supporting frame. When calculating its parameters, you need to select the cell sizes so that they are slightly smaller than the thermal insulation products. Then you won’t need any additional fastening on the outside of the house.

Laying insulation material

There is nothing complicated about this, especially if the scheme is drawn up correctly. Mineral wool can be cut well with a regular knife and bends, so no problems will arise.

  • In problem areas of the walls (complex configuration, slope, etc.), it is worth additionally fixing the thermal insulation with special nails - anchor nails.
  • The gaps in the places where the insulation meets the frame slats are sealed with the same construction tape.
  • Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the direction from bottom to top, in rows.
  • In regions with frosty winters, insulation (depending on the thickness of the samples) can be laid in 2 layers. In this case, the slabs for the second are cut so that after installation their joints in the rows do not coincide. That is, the mount is slightly offset.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation

Hydro-wind protection layer

Since we are talking about a wooden house and mineral wool, traditional waterproofing is clearly not enough. It is advisable to install a membrane (or a film of appropriate modification) on top of the insulation. The order of installation (which side is inward) depends on the design of the product and is indicated in the accompanying documentation.

Using regular P/E film will cause moisture to begin to accumulate in the insulation. There is nothing to comment here.

Counter-lattice

It is necessary to create a so-called ventilated space. In most cases, it alone is enough to ensure effective removal of liquid due to the natural circulation of air flows.

The counter-lattice parts are rigidly fixed to the slats of the supporting frame. Their elevation above the latter, as well as what exactly to use as these structural elements, depends on the finishing material of the wooden house. These can be either scraps of bars or metal profiles. In this case, thermal expansion is unimportant.

  • Insulating the outside walls of a house is only a partial solution to the problem of reducing heat loss. We must not forget about such parts as ground floor and the foundation (if it rises above the ground). This is where polystyrene foam comes in handy, and spraying can also be done, taking into account small area coverings, with your own hands. There are special devices, and they are not that expensive. And although in fact they are disposable (despite the fact that manufacturers claim otherwise), taking into account reasonable price You can also implement this option for insulating the outside of the lower part of a wooden house.
  • When choosing a variety of mineral wool, it is advisable to focus on products of the “eco” category. From all points of view, this is the best option for houses made of wood.

How and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside - from materials to installation


Do you have a wooden house? Do you want to figure out what and how best to insulate it from the outside? This article explains everything in detail, step by step and gives a number of useful recommendations. September 4, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Insulating a wooden house from the outside allows you not only to provide comfortable living conditions, but also to save on heating costs in winter time. However, this procedure must be carried out competently, since a violation of the technology can lead to the walls of the building becoming unusable very quickly. Therefore, below I will tell you in detail how external insulation is performed using two modern technologies.

Features of insulation

First of all, it should be noted that there are two technologies for external insulation of wooden houses:

  1. hinged (ventilated) facade– the principle of this technology is to install a frame on the walls, which is subsequently covered with siding, clapboard or other finishing material. The insulation is located in the space between the wall and the finishing material.
    This technology is the most preferable, since wet work is excluded. In addition, the facade is stronger and more durable;
  2. wet facade– in this case, the walls of the house are covered with insulation, after which they are plastered using a special technology.

Below I will tell you how to properly insulate a house in both cases.

Curtain facade

The installation process of a curtain façade includes several main stages:

Materials

First of all, let's look at how and how to insulate a wooden house from the outside using curtain façade technology. To do this you will need the following materials:

Materials Features and purpose
Insulation The optimal solution is mineral wool. I must say that people are often interested in whether it is possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam? In principle, the use of polystyrene foam is allowed, however, it should be taken into account that this material is quite flammable, and it does not allow steam to pass through, which will negatively affect the indoor microclimate.

Therefore, it is better to overpay a little, but still use mineral wool for these purposes.

Frame stands As a rule, beams or even boards are used. You can attach them to the wall using metal corners or brackets. It must be said that as an alternative to boards or timber, you can use a profile that is used for installing drywall.
Vapor barrier film Protects the insulation from getting wet.
Finishing material This can be lining, block house, siding or any other facade material.
Intercrown insulation Usually jute tow is used, however, you can fill the gaps with special foam or other suitable materials.
Antiseptic for wood Protects walls from the negative effects of moisture, rotting and other biological influences.

You can insulate the basement of your house with penoplex yourself. This material is quite durable, resistant to various negative influences, and also has the property of self-extinguishing in case of fire.

Facade preparation

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, do the following preparatory work:

  1. dismantle all hanging elements that may interfere with work - these are ebbs, canopies, window sills, antennas, etc.;
  2. after this, treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation;
  3. To complete the work, it is necessary to fill all inter-crown cracks with insulation, if any.

You can start insulating a wooden house no less than a year after its construction, so that the structure has time to shrink.

Installation of frame insulation

The next stage is installation. The instructions look like this:

  1. Begin the installation of the frame by arranging a ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards about two centimeters thick to the walls. They can be positioned both vertically and horizontally, the main thing is that you can subsequently attach racks to them;
  2. Then the vapor barrier film is attached to the boards with a stapler. It must be overlapped and stretched so that a space is formed between it and the wall. It is advisable to glue the joints of the film with tape.
    It must be said that the network offers many schemes for insulating walls without a ventilation gap, however, in this case, moisture can accumulate in the space between the wall and the insulation, which leads to negative consequences;
  3. After this, the racks are installed. You should start with the installation of two outer posts, between which ropes are stretched, serving as beacons for the intermediate slats.
    The outer racks are installed at the same distance from the wall, strictly vertically. If you use boards as racks, then secure them to the walls with metal corners and screws, as shown in the photo above. After this, install intermediate slats, which are located in increments of one or two centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

Then thermal insulation material should be laid in the space between the racks. The mats must fit tightly to each other and to the racks so that no gaps form in the insulation;

  1. then a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. As in the first case, it must be overlapped. You can fix the film using horizontal slats, which will additionally hold the insulation;

This completes the insulation of the facade with your own hands.

Frame covering

The final stage of work is covering the frame. As mentioned above, there are several finishing options. If you don’t know what material is best to cover the facade with, then focus primarily on cost, practicality, individual preferences, etc.

For example, lining is an environmentally friendly material, and it also allows you to maintain the attractive appearance of a wooden house. Vinyl siding is more practical, easy to clean and does not require maintenance.

So, if you decide to use siding for cladding, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Before attaching the panels to the wall, you need to install a starting profile, which is located horizontally along the perimeter of the house. In this case, you should leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about 10 cm;
  2. then corner profiles are installed at the corners of the house;
  3. after this, the first row of panels is installed. Bottom part the siding is inserted into the starting profile and attached to the sheathing on top with self-tapping screws;
  4. The whole house is sheathed according to this scheme;
  5. Before installing the last panel, the finishing profile should be secured;
  6. At the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

At this point, the siding of the façade is completed. It must be said that the lining is attached approximately according to the same principle, the only thing is that a profile is not used for its installation.

Wet facade

Installation process wet facade includes several main steps:

Preparation of materials

When choosing which insulation is best to insulate walls, in this case it is also better to give preference to mineral wool. Of course, in addition to insulation, you should purchase some other building materials:

  • glue for mineral wool;
  • umbrella dowels;
  • fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
  • perforated corners
  • decorative plaster;
  • primer;
  • facade paint.

After preparing all these materials, you can begin to work.

Wall insulation

As in the previous case, work begins with preparing the facade. This procedure is performed according to the scheme described above.

Then the walls are covered with mineral wool for plaster:

  1. First of all, you should prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package;
  2. then apply the glue to the mineral mats using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, the mortar should be applied with “blobs”, which will allow you to adjust the position of the slabs relative to the wall.

When gluing the mats, use a building level, and also stretch the beacons so that all the slabs in each row are located in the same plane;

  1. All walls of the house are covered using this principle;
  2. then the mineral wool is additionally fixed to the wall with umbrella dowels. To do this, drill holes in the wall directly through the insulation and hammer the dowels into them. Umbrella hats should be slightly recessed;

  1. After this, you need to cover the window openings with mineral wool. This procedure is reminiscent of installing slopes - cut the cotton wool into panels of the required size and cover the openings with them. Dowels are usually not installed on window slopes, but they must be installed on door slopes.
  2. then you need to check the quality of the work performed by applying the rule to different sections of the walls. If there are bumps on the wall, they can be removed using a special grater;
  3. then glue the perforated corners onto all the outer corners, using the same glue;
  4. To complete the work, coat all the dowel heads with glue so that the facade ends up with a smooth surface.

When working with mineral wool, use products personal protection, since when it gets on the skin it causes irritation.

Reinforcement

The next stage is reinforcement. Essentially, this is rough plastering. It is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Prepare the mesh by cutting it into sheets of the desired size. Please note that on the wall it should overlap by about 10 cm;
  2. then cut the canvas for the slopes;
  3. Next, glue the mesh to the slopes. To do this, the glue should be applied in an even layer a few millimeters thick on the surface of the mineral wool, and then immediately apply the mesh. To “drown” the mesh in the solution, run a spatula over it from above, as shown in the photo above;
  4. after reinforcing the slopes, the mesh is glued to the walls using the same principle;
  5. After the surface has dried, the glue is applied again in a uniform thin layer. In this case, use a wide spatula to eliminate all existing unevenness on the surface of the walls. This procedure is performed on the same principle as puttying.

People often ask on forums how best to insulate an old wooden house? If the structure has lost its geometry, then best choice There will be brick cladding. At the same time, between facing wall and mineral mats are laid on wooden walls.

Decorative plastering is much easier and faster than reinforcement. The main thing is to follow a certain sequence of actions:

  1. First of all, you need to treat the surface of the wall with a primer. To do this, pour the liquid into a tray and then apply it to the wall with a paint roller. To achieve maximum effect, the primer is applied in two layers;
  2. Next, prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package;
  3. then decorative plaster should be applied to the walls with a small or wide spatula. The layer should be as thin as possible;
  4. when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it should be rubbed with a trowel, making circular or reciprocating movements with your hand. This will create a specific pattern.

It must be said that the application decorative plaster Within one wall, it must be done in one go, otherwise the boundary along which you interrupted the work will not be visible on the wall.

Painting

Painting is also a simple and quick procedure:

  1. start work by preparing the paint - the composition should be stirred and, if necessary, tinted;
  2. then pour paint into the paint roller tray;
  3. after that, dip the roller in the paint, squeeze it lightly on a special platform in the bath, and treat the wall with it;
  4. Use a paint brush to touch up hard-to-reach areas;
  5. After the wall surface has dried, apply a second layer of paint.

Conclusion

Insulating a wooden house from the outside, as we found out, can be done in two ways. However, in any case, in order to achieve a high-quality result, you must strictly follow the instructions outlined above.

See the video in this article for more information. If you encounter any difficulties during the work, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Every person dreams of a warm home, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to stay indoors. Therefore, the first question that faces the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article we will provide instructions according to which thermal insulation of frame and timber houses outside. And for more clear example you can watch the video.

Types of insulation

There is a huge variety thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are widely used by consumers.

Stone wool in slabs. This material is easy to cut even with a regular knife. Due to their light weight, the slabs are easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation stone wool placed in the space between the frame posts and then insulated vapor barrier material inside and waterproofing outside.

Attention! When transporting or installing, do not compress or compact the mats under any circumstances.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly insulation material based on cellulose fibers. Available in slightly compressed packaging. There are two ways to insulate with this material:

  • dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and compacted into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, which will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
  • wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and adheres to the building frame, so the material does not settle.

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with polystyrene foam, you need to be as careful as possible, as it can crumble and break.

Attention! As insulation, you need to purchase unpressed sheets of polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, this material is similar to polyurethane foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation that completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has moisture-repellent properties.

Natural insulation. These include slabs made of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly and inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Flax fiber is also a natural insulation material. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, install, does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

The key to quality repairs is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or from the outside. Internal insulation rarely used, because because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the street side. Because of this, mold and mildew may appear inside the structure, and the wood itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy a material that will match the properties of wood. Flax fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulation is formed for the free escape of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, which is why steam escapes through ventilation gap. External method thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “marketable appearance” over time; after covering they will look like new. However, if you insulate the walls incorrectly, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under the layer of exterior finishing, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation frame house It starts with waterproofing. For this you can use glassine - cheap, but efficient material. It is cut into strips and stapled to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Glassine sheets are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house is covered with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. She doesn't call allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity; such slabs can be easily cut with a construction knife. The installation process is simple, first we measure the distances between the posts and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut out the sheets of the required size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use penophenol. It needs to be shot to the building frame using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid horizontally, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part facing out. After this, we cover the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with foam plastic

In order to secure the foam to the wall, we first install vertical canopies made of cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed to the wall. This is how all the insulation is laid. Next you need to seal the cracks with foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

The outside walls need to be plastered, and before that a reinforced mesh needs to be installed. The putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After drying, the surface can be applied finishing layer decorative plaster.

Insulating the walls of a timber house

External insulation of houses made of timber must be done slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be coated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. Then they attach it to basalt wool using self-tapping screws or umbrella dowels, 4-6 fasteners per 1 sq.m of insulation. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail 5 cm thick slats on top of the wooden frame, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the slats and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal installation with a level.

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And deciding whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how it will be done finishing external walls. Well, if you want to ensure that even the most severe frosts do not bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Insulating a house with mineral wool: video

Insulation of a wooden house: photo