Construction and calculation of a cesspool in a private house, how to make it yourself. Construction and maintenance of a cesspool without pumping Sewage pits in a private house

cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which is selected in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is capable of collecting domestic waste without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that the construction of a pit is simpler than, for example, construction, there are certain nuances that directly affect the effectiveness of such sewer system and, accordingly, on the comfort of living.

The advantages of cesspools are determined simplicity of their design. Such a structure can be built quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - the most commonly used available materials, including used ones.

The disadvantage of a cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out wastewater. Depending on the circumstances (volume of the pit, number of people, availability of water-consuming household appliances) frequency may vary, but the services of a sewer truck will always be one of your expenses.

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise problems may arise with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to know about before making a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary “unreliability”, if we're talking about about its leaky version. It is necessary to very carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause it to get into the soil of the garden. harmful substances or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The design of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the country building is used. For not large quantity drains and periodic residence, you can choose a hole without a bottom, but if a family of several people constantly lives in the house, it is better to prefer a sealed storage tank. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of “well”, the walls of which prevent wastewater from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter is made of crushed stone or gravel. Passing through it, the wastewater is partially filtered, after which it enters the soil and, passing through it, is purified more efficiently. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call vacuum cleaners. You won’t be able to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

It is advisable wastewater separation and the installation of separate cesspools for the toilet. In this case, the toilet pit will fill more slowly (and, accordingly, require calling special equipment less often), and drainage from the shower, bathtub, kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely disappear through the filter into the soil.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private home has “contraindications”.

Close location groundwater eliminates the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when their level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the pit can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration noticeably decreases - wastewater does not pass through the soil, being purified, but goes directly into groundwater.
Clay soil has too low permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only storage units. The wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option also has its advantages:

sanitary safety and eliminating the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
Possibility of use in all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the design of which involves collecting wastewater from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material suitable for its characteristics.

Materials for cesspools

By considering the features of materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular facility, you can decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most effective and economical.

Finished goods

Usage finished products can significantly reduce lead time construction work, and in some cases – their complexity.

Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, secured with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing joints. In most cases, tire cesspools have no bottom. The advantages of this option are low cost, lightweight and quick installation.
A tire cesspool is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewerage
Concrete rings- another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used to construct both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on concrete foundation. Seal joints and treat the internal and external surfaces of concrete products with waterproofing compounds (one of the most available options– ordinary bitumen, although you can purchase special mastics if desired) is recommended regardless of the type of product.
Iron or plastic require minimal effort during installation, but they significant drawback is a small volume. As a storage facility, they are only suitable for a summer residence, and to install a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require the application of a waterproofing coating on the outside and inside for protection against corrosion.
Plastic storage models fixation to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating during floods. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the assembled structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to compression by soil.

Construction Materials

Usage building materials slightly increases the construction time. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and site planning. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if this option is more convenient to locate on the territory.

Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

Rules for choosing location and volume

The volume of the cesspool should be sanitary standards be no less than the three-day water consumption norm. The estimated number is considered to be 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. When visiting the dacha periodically, it is less, and water is not consumed every day.

In a house with permanent residence, a family of 3 people needs a pit of at least 1 cubic meter. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small ones than one spacious pit. The layout of a cesspool in a private house must take into account the required distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the fence site drinking water, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. In this case, storage models should be positioned so that a sewage disposal truck can easily drive up to it.

If your site has a low groundwater level and you decide that it is suitable for you, then we will help in its construction with our advice.

To pump out the cesspool yourself, you will need. You will learn about their choice in another article.

And the nuances of choice well pumps described in this material

Cleaning the cesspool

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum cleaners does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is only possible to pump out liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about in a private home, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
Among chemicals Preferred are nitrate oxidizers, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to people, pets and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will occur if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. Plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable for its installation.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private home will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant expense. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Video

In this subsection you can watch a video on the topic of our article, which shows the intricacies of installing a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use drain hole. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a conventional pit latrine. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has whole line advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– additional equipment – to simplify the process you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.

The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. On clay soil a sand and gravel cushion is made. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.

All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.

A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.

Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.

Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. The second is inserted ventilation tube with a diameter of 50 mm.

A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

There are still places that have been little touched by civilization. Built there small houses, but there is no sewerage. A cesspool is required to remove sewage. If it is not there, there can be no question of comfort in the house. It is quite possible to equip such a structure independently if you have the necessary minimum knowledge. So, we bring to your attention an overview of the types of cesspools for private houses, as well as detailed description technologies for their construction.

Types of cesspools

The drainage pit should be located on the site in such a way that it can be accessed easy access special equipment. In addition, if there is a well on the site, and the area does not allow placing a cesspool at a distance of more than 25 meters from it, it is necessary to use sealed plastic containers for sewerage. You should not build a septic tank in the lowest place of the site - in the spring it will flood, and sewage will spread throughout the entire territory. The distance from the house to the cesspool, according to SNiP, must be at least 5 meters. It is forbidden to dig a hole to the depth of groundwater in order to do not pollute the environment.

According to standards, it is believed that the volume of a cesspool is determined based on 0.5 m3 per person. But this is not always enough. From experience we can conclude that 2 m3 is required per person. It is best to ensure that the volume of the sump corresponds to the volume of the sewer truck.

Cesspools are classified depending on frequency of use and designs. If people live in the house irregularly, a cheap temporary septic tank of the simplest design is sufficient. At permanent residence permanent construction of one of three types is required:

absorbent (without bottom);
hermetic;

Absorbing settling tank - hole without bottom, in which the so-called earthen filter cleans the sewage. Most often, this design does not have a large volume. At the first stage of operation, water drains quickly (if the soil is not clayey). But with time sludge accumulates in the container, so more frequent cleaning is required. In addition, a pit without a bottom pollutes the environment, especially if a toilet drain is made into it.

Sealed drain pit(septic tank made of concrete rings, solid cast or brick) is safer for environment, but requires frequent pumping. A septic tank in which the wastewater is purified mechanically is more convenient. It can be single or multi-chamber.

Single chamber septic tank- a well whose bottom is lined broken brick or crushed stone. It is through this that the first stage of purification occurs. Second phase - soil cleaning. It’s even better if the septic tank is multi-chamber - the wastewater is purified to such an extent that it can be used for irrigation.

Permanent and temporary cesspools

Permanent structures - concrete and brick (block).

Concrete pit can be made from reinforced concrete rings or a solid screed. When using the first option, the bottom is filled with concrete mortar, then the rings are installed. Similar design you can build it yourself. The main disadvantage is the need for frequent cleaning.

One-piece construction more expensive in financially and requires more time to construct. First, the bottom is reinforced and filled with concrete. The further process is somewhat reminiscent of pouring a foundation - formwork is erected and filled with mortar. This sump tank is completely sealed and can last as long as a house. sewage does not enter the ground, and no soil gets into the pit, the volume practically does not decrease during operation. But such a drainage pit needs to be cleaned often, and it is expensive.

A little more efficient two-section concrete septic tank . The pit needs to be made larger, divided into two parts so that one part is twice as large as the other. Both compartments are connected by a duct. The waste flows into a large container, where it remains the largest portion of precipitation. The second part receives wastewater almost without sediment. If there is a drainage well in the second section, wastewater without insoluble sediment enters the ground.

Even more complex design - three-section concrete septic tank, but its installation requires expensive equipment: a compressor with a timer in the second compartment and a drain pump in the third section.

Most modern version - plastic containers. They are completely sealed, so wastewater does not enter the ground. But they need to be pumped out often.

You can make the walls of the sewage pit made of brick or cinder concrete. If you need a major sump, then you need to pour 15-20 cm of sand at the bottom, then fill it with concrete. After hardening, you can cover the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap between the brick or blocks. This option is preferable for unstable soil. At the dacha you can build a hole out of bricks without a bottom. In this case, nothing is placed on the bottom, and during laying a gap of about half a brick is left between the bricks.

Temporary sewage pits built from wood or used tires. If boards are used, they must first be treated with some kind of protective agent. The walls are made in the same way as for formwork. Such a sedimentation tank is inexpensive, can be constructed quickly and provides sufficient isolation of the soil from wastewater. But such a structure will not last longer than 10 years.

To build a cesspool you can use old tires. The hole must be completely filled. Such a sump is cheap, does not require any finishing, is cheap and can last up to 25 years, but has a great throughput, so the soil becomes contaminated.

Stages of constructing a cesspool

The whole process can be roughly divided into 5 main stages:

digging a hole;
arrangement;
sealing and insulation;
laying a pipeline from the house;
backfilling of the tank and pipeline.

After the required volume of the pit has been calculated, you need to mark it up, taking into account the size and type of material that will be used for the arrangement. For example, when using concrete rings the hole will be deep, but not very large in diameter. This work is enough heavy and labor-intensive, especially if you get by with just a shovel.

When the pit is ready, it must be arrange. If rings are used, then after concreting the bottom you just need to install them on top of each other. A solution is prepared from one part cement, four parts sand and six parts crushed stone. This mixture hardens in about a week. When installing the rings, you should lay rubber between them, for example, old inner tubes, and seal the joints with cement mortar.

To prevent the pit from freezing in winter, between the concrete and the soil to the freezing level you need lay down mineral wool and cover with earth. When making a hatch from mastic-treated boards, it is necessary to leave a ventilation hole in it with a diameter of at least 10 cm. But you can also use ready-made concrete plates with holes. Any cover must be located above ground level to prevent rainwater from flooding the sump.

Upon completion of work related to the arrangement of the settling tank, digging a trench under the sewer pipeline and pipes are installed. Be sure to remember two important conditions: sewer pipes are laid with a slope and insulated if the depth of the trench is above the freezing level. After laying the pipeline, you can fill both it and the cesspool. The pipe entering the pit should not be recorded- it can be damaged by ground movement.

If a ready-made polymer septic tank is used, then the sequence of work does not change:

a hole is being dug;
container is placed;
backfilling is carried out.

Such septic tanks are reliable and durable, but they also have certain disadvantages: high cost and fragility of the walls. In addition, sometimes the plastic is pushed to the surface, causing depressurization sewer pipeline. Therefore, it is best to concrete the plastic container and place a concrete floor on top.

Operation of cesspools

Regardless of the material used to construct the sump, it requires periodic pumping. To prevent sewage from flooding the area, it is necessary to constantly monitor the pit and call a sewage truck if the liquid level is 30 cm below the ground level. If the sump is filled to the brim, sewage will enter the area. To reduce the cost of cleaning containers, you can purchase biological products for cesspools that help decomposition of solid sediment and reducing bad smell. But they also cost money.

Therefore, it is worth thinking about costs before starting all the work. Financial expenses will decrease if at the bottom of the collection make some holes and insert plastic tubes into them, the upper ends of which protrude 70-80 cm above the bottom.

If during operation it turns out that the volume of the pit is insufficient, you should not start all the work again. Much easier dig a hole nearby and make another hole, connecting it to the first using pipes. A cesspool can degrade the appearance of the site. It can be disguised with a flower bed. Flowers in tubs placed around the perimeter of the hatch will also work. If you use your imagination, you can come up with other options.

Video review of the construction of a cesspool

When building a summer house or country cottage, arrangement of the sewerage system is a top priority. A cesspool in a private house is designed according to the standard standards described in SNiP and SanPin.

Cesspools are classified according to the material from which they are made, design and operating principle.

Based on the material, the following types can be distinguished:

By design, cesspools are classified as:

Closed. Completely sealed structures. They consist of a closed bottom and strong walls. Such containers are environmentally friendly and suitable for installation in small areas;
Open or leaking. According to the rules of Sanitary Control, such a device is allowed only if the total volume of wastewater per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. These pits have no bottom and some of the waste goes into the soil and groundwater. This allows for cesspool cleaning to be carried out less frequently than with closed tanks, but poses a threat to the environment.

According to the principle of operation, all cesspools are divided into single-chamber, multi-chamber and septic tanks. Single-chamber - standard structures consisting of one compartment. It is both a draft drain and a settling basin. This is the simplest option for installing a drain, but it requires regular cleaning. The wastewater is simply stored in it for a certain period of time until it is cleaned by the sewage system.

Multi-chamber – cesspools consisting of several compartments. Standard scheme is a connection of single-chamber tanks with pipes. Waste from home or other consumer points is dumped into one, and pre-treated waste flows into the second. The wastewater remains in the settling tank for several days, after which it is further purified and discharged outside the site.

Septic tanks are professional multi-chamber devices. They consist of tanks separated by pipes and filters, pumps pumping wastewater at a certain speed and treatment facilities (biological filters). The main advantage of using a septic tank for a cesspool is its efficiency. It is not just a liquid reservoir, but also a purifier. Many owners subsequently use settled water for technical needs.

Calculation of the required volume of the pit and its geometric dimensions

Volume and geometric dimensions cesspool in a private house depend on the number of consumers living and connected to the sewer. It is generally believed that 1 adult consumes 0.5 cubic meters of water per day. The child, accordingly, is half as much - 0.25.

The formula used for calculation is:

V*n=Vya, where V is the daily volume consumed by one person, n is the number of residents, and Vya is the required volume of the cesspool. For example, if there are three adults and 1 child living in a house, the formula will look like this:

0.5*3+0.25*1=1.75 m3. The resulting values are always rounded up. In our case, this is 2 cubic meters. From the obtained values, the required dimensions are determined.

Rules for choosing the depth and diameter of a pit:

The minimum drainage depth must be at least 2 meters. 1 meter is allocated for the release of gases and freezing of the soil;
2. Maximum depth – no more than 3.5 meters. Most vacuum cleaners are equipped with hoses that are 3 meters long. Exceeding this indicator will significantly complicate the processes of cleaning wastewater from silt and solid accumulations;
The width depends on the selected depth and standard sizes materials selected for the construction of the drain.

Location on the site

cesspool closed type It is more often used in a residential private house, because it can be placed much closer to the living space than an open one. All requirements for choosing a location are described in detail in “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements", Decree 360-92 (Ukraine) and SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 (Russia).

Primary requirements:

The distance from a residential building is at least 20 meters. From non-residential premises a deviation of 15 meters is allowed. It is separately indicated that if the basement exceeds the area of the house, then the countdown begins from the wall of the underground building;
You should retreat from a reservoir or well from 30 meters (closed pit) to 50 (open type reservoir);
A distance of 2–4 meters is maintained from the road and the fence;
According to the rules of good neighborliness, from neighboring plot the cesspool should be separated by at least 10 meters.

In some cases, it is also indicated that the waste tank must be at least 5 meters away from the garden or garden. It must be remembered that failure to comply with these requirements entails administrative liability.

Installation of a cesspool

The arrangement of a cesspool is carried out in several stages:

Preparing the pit;
Tank installation;
Connecting sewer pipes;
Backfilling the drain.

In the selected location of the site, a place for the future cesspool is planned. The pit is dug using special construction equipment or manually. Its diameter should slightly exceed the dimensions of the tank for arranging a cesspool. This will allow the container to be more thoroughly sealed and insulated.

Regardless of the type of pit construction chosen, the bottom of the pit must be strengthened with crushed stone and a sand cushion. The first layer of sifted river sand, after it - fine crushed stone and then - coarse stones. The walls of the pit are covered with waterproofing material. In cold regions, textiles or agrofibre are also installed on top of the waterproofing to protect against soil freezing.

A cesspool is a special depression in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drainage pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The construction of a cesspool begins with the choice suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to choose the optimal location:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
from the pit itself to the fence site the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
the distance to groundwater should be taken into account; it should be over 30 meters.

After this, they begin to calculate optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of wastewater volume;
taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily allow liquid to pass through make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to be increased higher calculated value;
it should be remembered that the soil layer must be at least 1 meter;
the optimal depth is about 3 meters.

Materials

Nowadays the most widely used types of materials used in constructing a cesspool are:

bricks;
reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do ;
tractor;
special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymer materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the diagram of a cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from falling apart, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. along the entire perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

Required condition is the presence of a ventilation hole equipped with a pipe to remove gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch, which will provide access to the pit for regular maintenance.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's consider the 3 most simple options pit constructions.

Made of brick

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit with brick lining:

to begin with, use thread and stakes to mark the selected area - on average, the dimensions of the hole are 1 by 1.5 meters;
to fill the hole at the end of the work, you will need about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil, the rest of the soil extracted during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
if you plan to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
at the bottom of the dug pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
sharp object by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
after the concrete pad has hardened, lay a sewer pipe (if provided);
after that, start laying facing walls placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using sand-cement mortar;
to increase the service life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
upon completion of the cladding work, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
make depressions in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
use corrugated sheeting to build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
strengthen the ceiling by using rods and reinforcement fastened together with wire;
evenly fill the formwork with concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
Carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

dig a pit, maintaining as much round shape cross section;
mark the areas where the pit will be located;
fill the bottom with a layer concrete mortar;
build metal carcass with the help of reinforcement rods, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
after the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the rings;
the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with concrete solution;
the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
After installing all the rings, they should be covered with a concrete cover, and the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using plastic containers:

dig a pit, taking into account that in this case it will be significantly larger in size than in the two previous cases;
make the bottom as smooth as possible;
pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom and compact it well;
carefully lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
connect the inlet pipe of the tank with drain pipe;
fill with soil or sand free space between the tank and the walls of the pit;
Fill in a small volume of water to see how the tank compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inwards, the tank is not installed correctly.
completely fill the pit with soil.

Necessary tool

The main tool for personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and for the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and rope for pulling out soil. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove soil from the pit. It is necessary to have a tape measure or other measuring device on hand. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that you will have to make a solution from cement, if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, you should allocate a separate container for preparing the required volume of solution.

Installation highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations taking into account specific needs. Then comes the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings It should be taken into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure when dropped. The option with bricks and a tank can be installed manually. It should also be taken into account that to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be compacted with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes that will carry wastewater, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

incorrect preliminary calculations of volume and location;
insufficient pit depth;
weak fortification the walls of the pit resulting in collapse
walls;
the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

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