Let's take a step-by-step look at installing a steel bathtub. Let's securely fasten it to the legs, learn about installation tricks that increase the service life and performance of plumbing fixtures, and make a niche for the bathtub from moisture-resistant plasterboard and a Knauf metal profile.
Step 1: Installing the Legs
A steel rectangular bathtub from the Spanish company Roca of the Contesa series with dimensions of 1700x700x400 mm was chosen for installation. The bath volume is 185 l, and the steel thickness is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of a steel bath is its lightness. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person can easily install it. But installing a cast iron bathtub alone will not be easy. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. You will have to involve an assistant or even a team.
Installing a bathtub begins with attaching the legs. To avoid damaging the floor covering, place something soft under the bathtub. You don’t have to remove the factory cardboard for now; it’s a reliable backing against scratches. Turning the bath over. Self-adhesive structures, as in our case, which follow the contour of the bottom, are considered good legs for mounting. They have height adjustment, preventing distortions and unevenness of the floor. To install a bathtub with legs, first try on U-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, ensuring reliable adhesion. We attach the structures using double-sided tape. We fix the supports exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding distortion. Bolt-on legs are also available, but we do not recommend using them. They may not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage the enamel.
The legs are supplied with long adjusting pins. They must be inserted all the way into the plastic tips. We do this smoothly, making sure that it doesn’t break threaded connection. Adjust the stud using a rubber hammer.
Let's start installing the studs. First screw the nuts to the plastic ends and screw the pin into the designated hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bathtub in height and horizon.
Step 2: Collecting drain fittings
After installing the legs, turn the bathtub over. We install a drainage system. Let's unpack it and study the instructions. We start the assembly with the bottom drain.
We install the drain socket into the technological hole under the bottom of the bathtub. This element consists of two parts - a tube with a funnel-shaped expansion and a cup-shaped chrome detail, which prevents large debris from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additional silicone for a reliable seal.
Let's move on to connecting the overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in the upper hole under the side of the bathtub, and the second - to the lower drain, which leads to the sewer. When purchasing a kit, select a corrugated overflow tube. It is easy to install, has a larger outer diameter clearance than a rigid tube, which means the likelihood of water overflowing is minimal.
The modern market offers two drainage systems for bathtubs. A well-known set with a plug on a chain and an automatic stopper. In the second option, opening (closing) occurs using a mechanism that is mounted on the overflow, like ours. In this case, there is no need to bend down and pull out the plug; just turn the lever.
This is what the final installation of the drainage system looks like.
Step 3: Calculate the height of the bath and install the stop
We calculate the height at which the bath will be installed. Correct measurement will ensure not only a good fit with the facing tiles and plumbing supply, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. The likelihood of foreign odors leaking out in this case is minimal. An additional raising of the bathtub by just 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and debris in the siphon and metal mesh drain.
To strengthen the bathtub against the wall, install a stop, the main thing is that it is stable. We used a metal profile from Knauf.
We fasten the profile using dowel screws, choose the pitch yourself. It is advisable to install fasteners as often as possible.
This is what the metal stop looks like after attaching it to the dowel screws.
Step 4: Installing the Bathtub on Bricks
We return the bathtub and put it in place. Since the drain hole in the wall is high and the legs are not long enough, you will have to install the bathtub on bricks to level it out. In addition, the metal legs are not strong enough and heavy, and can easily become twisted under the weight of the body or water. Beauty is not the main thing here, since in the future you will cover the niche under the bathtub with plasterboard and tile it. When marking the brick, do not forget to leave enough space at the siphon so that you have easy access. We lay bricks on cement-sand mortar.
Draw a line against the wall and move the bathtub away. Apply silicone sealant to the screwed profile and below the marked line. After applying the silicone, we put the bathtub in its original place.
We level the bath evenly using the adjusting bolts.
We seal the joints between the bathtub and the wall with silicone sealant.
To firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen them with fragments of brick, and seal the joints with cement mortar. The legs should be sealed especially firmly when installing a heavy cast iron bathtub.
After we have pulled the back corner of the bathtub and securely attached it to the wall, we attach a file at the ends for rigidity and set it on tile adhesive.
Step 5: Connecting the siphon to the sewer and checking for leaks
When the silicone sealant and glue have dried, we proceed to connecting the siphon to the sewer drain.
The connection will be made using a rigid structure. To install the system, we use corners at 45°C. Unlike a corrugated tube, such a system is easier to operate and clean. If a blockage occurs, it is enough to open the shut-off valve and clean the drain.
This is what the system should look like after connecting the hard siphon to the sewer.
We install the bottom drain plug and the rotary lever to open and close the side drain.
To check the quality of the installation of the drainage system, open the tap and fill the bath with water. When the plug is closed, there is no leakage - the upper neck is assembled correctly.
When the bath is half full, open the plug and check all other connections for the possibility of leaks.
Everything is dry, you can use the bathroom. If leaks are observed, most likely you have not tightened the nuts tightly, a misalignment has occurred, or the adapters have not been fixed tightly enough. Tighten the nuts and point the structure in the desired direction.
Step 6: Foaming and covering the bathtub niche
Despite the advantages, a steel bathtub has two main disadvantages: the water in it cools quickly and it creates increased noise when drawing water. A budget option for eliminating these problems is to blow with polyurethane foam. Installation of acrylic and cast iron bathtubs does not require this procedure. These materials have good noise insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve their quality characteristics, no one forbids you to blow off such baths. It is better to apply polyurethane foam to a moistened surface than to a dry one, in small areas. Leave a small gap around the technological holes, about 2 cm. Excess foam can be easily removed using a sharp blade.
Let's start assembling the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you again use the Knauf profile. We start by marking the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and secure them with dowel nails. We install the profile on the sides, deepening it into the niche to the thickness of the drywall sheets and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22–24 mm, taking into account that the thickness of the plasterboard sheet is about 12–13 mm, and the tiles with glue are 10–11 mm. It is better to take the distance with reserve. If the niche is slightly recessed, it’s not a big deal. But the bulging of the slab will look ugly. We connect the side planks wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bathtub, foam the gaps. We fix the vertical profiles in the middle using self-tapping screws.
Let's start covering, use moisture resistant plasterboard Knauf. Standard size sheet – 3000×1200×12 mm. For a bathtub up to 170 cm long, no more than one such sheet will be required. For the inclined surface of the niche, measure a rectangle required length and width, cut and fasten. Sew up the rest of the niche. We close the resulting space between the inclined and straight parts with plasterboard triangles cut to size. We do not pay attention to small cracks; these errors will not be visible under the tiles. After covering, we make a window of the required size and install a plumbing hatch. The final stage is applying glue and tiling.
Step 7: Sealing the seams with silicone
The missing tiles between the bathroom and the wall have been laid, the seams have been grouted, now we proceed to the last stage of finishing - sealing the seams. We clean the seam between the bathtub and the wall and wipe everything dry. To seal, we will use white silicone, which will prevent water from leaking through the side of the bathtub.
To prevent silicone from covering the tiles and bathtub, we glue a barrier in the form of masking tape around the entire perimeter. It will prevent sealant from getting on the cladding and plumbing.
Fill the cleaned and prepared seam with white silicone sealant.
Make the seam even, smear it carefully with your finger, plastic spatula or spatula. Wipe off excess sealant with a wet rag.
When the silicone dries slightly, carefully remove the masking tape.
After the silicone has completely hardened, the bath is ready for use.
A steel bathtub is the cheapest option, with proper installation and additional processing according to your needs. performance qualities is in no way inferior to more expensive analogues. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs– heat is retained for a long time. But in order to heat cast iron, you need a lot hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. Moreover, during the adoption water procedures the water still cools down, the heat leaves through large area unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this shortcoming, if desired. performance characteristics An ordinary steel bathtub can be upgraded to high standards.
Important point right choice simplifies installation and increases comfort of use.
By what criteria are bathtubs classified?
| Parameter | Meaning and tips for choosing |
|---|---|
| 105x70, 120x70, 130x70, 140x70, 150x70, 160x70, 170x70, 170x75, 180x80. Choose the length and width of the bath taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to ensure that the product is adjacent to the opposite walls as closely as possible, this will greatly simplify the installation process. | |
| 110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. Volume directly depends on depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a large bathtub; it is difficult to get in and out of. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, than more water, the longer the comfortable temperature remains. | |
| On bolts or double-sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers; bolt-on mounting is more reliable and in most cases does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Legs on tape - a budget option, is not stable. The legs can help level the bathtub horizontally; to increase the reliability of fixation, installation on brick linings is recommended. | |
| All steel bathtubs are covered with enamel. But the quality of the coating is different. Domestic manufacturers cover the worst. Insufficient enamel thickness and poor quality of the composition in terms of physical strength reduce the service life. As a result, there is a need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replace it. |
Choose the size of the bath responsibly, taking into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.
- Run your hand over the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or " sea waves» indicate a violation of the annealing conditions. Such a coating will quickly get dirty and requires constant cleaning.
- Inspect the coating from different angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade of white changes.
- Pay attention to the area of the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not drain completely; a small amount will always remain near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, and over time it acquires a yellow tint.
Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive products; there is no need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will ultimately bring losses; purchase products only from well-known, time-tested manufacturers with numerous customers.
steel bath
Preparing the site
The location where the bathroom is installed should already have sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not 90°, then this disadvantage must be taken into account when installing the bathtub.
The flooring must be horizontal.
Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bathtub will be installed level, but problems may arise with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathtub, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall and the leaks are insignificant, then fungus will certainly appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub, do a set of special measures and reinstall the bathtub. Minor leaks can appear for various reasons; their absence cannot be completely guaranteed. If water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the causes are promptly eliminated and the negative consequences are minimal.
Installation of siphon and overflow
These elements must be installed before installing the bathtub in place. In terms of their design and connection technology, all systems are the same, the only difference is in price and material of manufacture.
Step 1. Turn the bathtub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage when tipping over, place cardboard or soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process not only speeds up significantly, but also the quality of installation improves.
Step 2. Read the assembly instructions and check that the siphon is complete. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not mix up the gaskets; each must be installed in its place.
Step 3. Assemble the siphon and secure it in the drain hole. Do not use too much force to avoid damaging the seals and gaskets. To make assembly easier, it is recommended to use petroleum jelly or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.
Top part is mounted inside the bathtub, the lower one is under the bathtub drain hole
Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bathtub, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change your position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bathtub and the water will not be able to drain completely. The remaining part, after drying, forms yellow spots on the bottom; they will have to be removed frequently. All cleaning products contain compounds that have a negative effect on enamel. Even though their concentration is insignificant, with repeated use the thickness of the enamel decreases.
Step 4. Turn the bathtub on its side, install the gaskets one by one and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. It's much easier to do this together. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten them with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.
Check the connections for tightness. It is better to do this before installing the bathtub in place, this will make it easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.
Installation of legs
We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. In the first option, no problems should arise. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the inspection of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.
Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. It is impossible to give general recommendations; each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural parts to the bathtub.
Adjust the position of the bathtub using the threads on the legs; check horizontality in two directions with a level. When you find the desired position, be sure to secure the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not wobble, otherwise the slope of the bath will change over time. In addition, gaps will appear between the wall and the bathtub. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.
And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs; their factory tilted bottom does not ensure complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners advise immediately increasing the slope of the bathtub bottom towards the drain hole by a few millimeters. This will not be noticeable to the eye, but will guarantee the normal functioning of the drain.
Warming the bowl
A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important considering modern prices for public utilities. After insulating the bowl, the bathtub’s heat saving performance is significantly superior to all commercially available expensive analogues. In addition, it does not add weight and perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds when filling with water.
How is the bowl insulated?
Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing the siphon with overflow and legs. Buy two or three cans of polyurethane foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during hardening significantly increases in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume means more air bubbles, less heat losses. And the low price is explained by the low compression force; this parameter does not play any role in our case.
Step 2. Clean the outside of the tub. If there is grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health; ensure maximum ventilation of the room. Better to work for outdoors, and not indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.
Step 3. After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray bottle. Moisture increases the adhesion coefficient of foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water contributes to the optimal flow regime chemical reactions, the foam will harden much faster.
Step 4. Shake the foam container thoroughly, put on a special plastic straw. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if you apply it in sectors from bottom to top. The foam should lie in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. Wider rows are not a problem; after hardening, the gaps will correct themselves. If the surface dries out, re-wet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You won't get anything other than additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. You will have to scrape it off for a long time and tediously with a knife.
Step 5. Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, and blow out any gaps.
Practical advice. If the foam falls off from vertical surfaces, then turn the bathtub in different directions and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.
Step 6. Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath; it should not interfere with making the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of installation of the screen.
On this preparatory work installation completed. The bathtub has a siphon, legs and insulation.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
This installation completely eliminates the bathtub from swaying and tipping over; we strongly recommend using it.
Step 1. Place the clawfoot bathtub in the desired location, mark their location, and draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjustable in height and inclination using leg bolts.
Step 2. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to chop off the excess parts to the required height.
Step 3. Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, add about three parts of sand, water as needed.
Step 4. Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is supported. Place about two more centimeters of solution on top. The solution should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.
Step 5. Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, rock and press it until your legs touch the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. Once the feet (if any) touch the floor, the installation is complete. Give the solution time to harden (about a day) and continue installing the bathtub.
Bath screens
Using screens, communications are hidden; it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further cladding with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, plasterboard, OSB or in the form of an ordinary curtain made of thick fabric. We'll tell you how to do each option in turn.
The structures must provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic routine cleaning of the system. It is advisable to have an opening for the feet only if the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - country house for temporary residence. Put it in dear washing machine unprofitable and dangerous, summer residents, out of old habit, use the bathtub to wash clothes.
What types of frames are there for installing screens?
Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made from metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and labor-intensive, and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that there is no point in considering it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, a crooked structure will have to be redone.
How to make a frame from metal profiles?
Step 1. Count the number of profiles.
They need three vertical baths in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in the width of the bath. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers; you need to make a separate small frame for the door. Three jumpers in length are enough; in width you can do without them. Knowing the dimensions of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.
Step 2. Make the markings.
This is a very important stage, don’t rush, check the measurements several times. To increase accuracy, use a plumb line; the level does not indicate vertical planes accurately.
How to make markup?
- Apply the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bathtub, wait until it calms down. Make a mark of the upper and lower position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bathtub; there can be two or three of them depending on the size of the bathtub and the room. This way the junction of the screen with the walls is indicated.
- At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing materials: plasterboard, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
- Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again to avoid mistakes.
Further work depends on the material used to make the frame. The best option– metal profile, but you can also work with wooden slats.
Metal profile frame
Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size; we have already described how to determine them. Don’t work on jumpers yet; make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.
Step 2. Lay the long profile on the floor, one side should be exactly adjacent to the marked line. Carefully use a marker to mark the locations for drilling holes for the dowels. It's not good to work with a pencil, use a marker.
Step 3. Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels; the strips have perforated holes, with the help of which the element can be slightly moved in different directions and achieved an exact position.
Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If you plan to use a heavy OSB board for cladding, then vertical and horizontal profiles At the corners they are connected to each other with hardware.
Step 5. Attach the profiles along the length and width close to the top side of the bathroom, you should have a strong frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can have a vertical or horizontal position.
Step 6. Decide on the size of the door for the siphon inspection, make a small frame for it in the right place. Constantly check the position of all frame elements with a level. The door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.
The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is wobbly - add jumpers in problem areas, achieve high stability.
Frame made of wooden blocks
In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to metal profiles. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. If there are any concerns, soak it with antiseptics.
For the frame you can use slats of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finishing sheathing. A universal option You can consider the dimensions of the slats to be five by five centimeters. Make markings on the floor and wall as always. One feature - take into account the width of the slats; they should fit under the side shelves of the bathtub and not interfere with the finishing. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels; the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the slats. This will make it possible to adjust the position of the frame without fear. Plus it's easy to fix possible mistakes while drilling holes for dowels.
Step 1. Place a long block on the floor and estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.
Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It’s not scary that it will be screwed to the block off-center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.
Step 2. Drill holes, secure the corners with dowels and a block to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. Install the short block in the same way.
Step 3. Measure the height vertical elements. Make a gap of approximately 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the bathtub. Using corners, fasten the segments into a single structure with the bottom one.
Step 4. Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing in the upper part of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the side; these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more one close to the side. It’s much easier to do this, and the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure increases.
Step 5. Make a frame for the door in the right places; if heavy materials are used, then install several jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers in the corners.
The frame is ready, you can begin the finishing cladding, fastening is carried out with wood screws.
Brick screens
In terms of time, they do not take much time, and in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The quantity is calculated in this way.
- Calculate the side and end area of the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
- Divide the resulting amount by the area of one brick or block. Round the quantity to a whole number. For reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.
One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface should be finished with ceramic tiles, step by step design We'll give it in the next section.
Step 1. Place the first row of bricks on the edge, constantly checking its position with a level. You need to know that masonry on an edge has its own characteristics; if they are not followed, the wall may “float”. First feature. The solution should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side edge of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray bottle. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined practically. Second feature. After three rows you need to give the solution time to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.
The bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are covered with whole bricks of the upper one.
Step 2. Continue working until the entire space is covered. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is advisable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the bathtub installation. Use any small means at hand for these purposes; such work cannot be done with a trowel.
Important. Don't forget to leave a hole for siphon inspection. Check the structure, remove any remaining mortar that has emerged. Give it time to harden at least 24 hours.
Ceramic tile finishing
If the wall already has tiles, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated. The fact is that you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to lay a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can straighten jambs down to a centimeter, but appearance Of course, it will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints; their cuts fit tightly to surfaces without gaps.
Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles as a spare; you won’t need any more, the surface area to be finished is very small. You need to buy about 10 kg of glue.
Step 2. Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or a level lath, and check several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.
Step 3. The tile is placed on uneven surface, it is impossible to use a comb. Apply the glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved left and right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is made with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile; the cross will constantly move the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross; you will have to pick out each one with a knife.
Step 4. No experience - use plastic elements in corners and joints, they make the work much easier.
Step 5. After about two hours you can start. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry; dry material is difficult to clean.
Finishing with OSB boards or plasterboard
Finishing with slabs is much simpler than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?
Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame and mark the slab. As a rule, the length of the bathtub exceeds the length of the slab; it will have to be joined. This possibility must be foreseen during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand must be installed at the joining point.
Cut off all the blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife; for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or jigsaw.
Step 2. Fix the elements one by one with self-tapping screws, and work carefully with the drywall. When the self-tapping screws are tightened with great force, their heads fall inside the plaster, and new ones have to be screwed in.
Step 3. Screw small hinges where the door is installed. Check the functionality of the door.
Step 4. Proceed with finishing surfaces. You can use ceramic tiles - it takes a long time and is expensive. There is a simpler option - cover the surfaces with self-adhesive decorative film; today there is a huge selection on sale - cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film also has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.
Practical advice. Do not try to immediately glue the film without air pockets, it is almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove the air by smoothing the pocket.
Plastic lining
The option is not the best. It is recommended to use if the bathroom walls are lined with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from OSB from plasterboard and not wasting time on lining.
How to make sliding doors
A very simple and functional screen option. For manufacturing you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, MDF is glued to them with special glue.
Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile; we have described the algorithm for making such structures. Check the position of all elements.
Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters; the racks must be strictly vertical.
Step 2. Attach the guides to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.
Step 3. Measure the exact distance between the guides; the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, the doors will jam when opening/closing.
Step 4. Cut from MDF boards doors of the required sizes. For overlap, 2–3 cm is enough. You can cut the slab with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, place emphasis on the bottom - this will reduce the hairiness of the cut.
Step 5. Bevel the cut. Use sandpaper or a cylindrical sander. Install handles.
There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most labor-intensive. It is advisable to use it before covering the walls; if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.
Step 1. Remove the row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bathtub rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make a pattern around the bathtub, this will only improve the appearance.
Step 2. On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the side of the bathtub, at a distance of about 2 cm, draw another line. It indicates the position of the protruding side part of the side.
Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along lines approximately 1 cm deep.
Step 4. Apply sealant to the ends of the rim and place the bathtub in place. The edges should fit slightly into the groove; remove excess sealant.
The tiles were laid, decorative ceramic plinth was used to match the tiles
This method completely guarantees the tightness of the junction; water will never get behind the bathtub.
Use any method that does not present difficulties for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the junction of the bathtub with the wall will be sufficient.
Video - Installing a steel bathtub
When arranging their home, every person wants to create unique comfort, beauty and coziness in the interior of their living space. Home improvement involves special attention and take care of every stage of the design of the bathroom, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the operation of which must be absolutely correct, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, property damage will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements and installation rules described in the instructions, especially if you are renovating the premises yourself. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.
The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and what size, shape and color it is affects not only the mood, but also the performance characteristics. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, what about hydromassage? That’s right, they also have a place, but they belong to the “elite” class, which is why the installation of such bathtubs is most often entrusted to specialists.
One of the most popular models on the plumbing equipment market are bathtubs made of steel and acrylic. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, they can be easily installed even by one. Cast iron structures are very heavy, but they are durable, strong, and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.
Before installing the bathtub in a specific place, you need to think through everything carefully. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.
After purchasing a new bathtub, you should get rid of the old one. A cast iron drain is usually cut out, but a plastic one can be broken. Next, the legs are broken, knocked out from under the bathtub, tilted on its side and taken out. Afterwards, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and sealed with sealant at the joints to completely seal the corrugation.
For a cast iron bathtub, it would be ideal to use a cast iron cuff installed inside the drain hole.
How to install a cast iron bathtub on legs
Installing a clawfoot bathtub in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern baths usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on concrete screed or on the floor, if a bath screen is not intended. At the same time, it is important to understand that installed structure It won’t wobble to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be set strictly horizontally – level.
If you decide to change the location of the bathtub, this will require additional measurements, purchasing hoses and pipes so that the installation of the bathtub can be carried out as correctly as possible and without further unpleasant surprises.
Important! Do not gently remove the protection from the bathtub during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.
Installing a steel/acrylic bathtub
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic one is carried out in the same way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. Three sides of the bathtub should rest against the walls, which promotes better fixation. Well, installing a bathtub under the tiles, of course, is carried out before laying the tiles themselves, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathtub and the walls.
To attach the supports to the bathtub, you need to turn it upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to opposite side. In the places where the supports are attached, everything is first degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. If there are bolt stands, then before tightening the nuts, you should install engraving washers under the bolts.
If the supports were installed on a bathtub in the hallway, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the designated place, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set horizontally, and the structure itself, after installation on the legs, should be carefully checked so that it does not wobble.
After this, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, treating all joints and cracks with sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been completed, you can safely proceed to tiling.
Installing a steel bathtub in the bathroom
Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, you need to check the legs again, tightening them until they stop.
Sometimes a problem may arise that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewerage system may be installed incorrectly. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands requires additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on wooden blocks or even bricks. Some threaded pins are replaced with elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at construction stores or markets.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks
The acrylic construction is quite light, so it can be placed on legs without any problems.
Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will not completely go into the sewer. The bathtub itself may also crack due to the legs, so it would be better to install the bathtub on bricks yourself.
You will need:
- 20 pcs. red bricks;
- cement mortar;
- metal profile;
- hammer and trowel;
- tape sealant, silicone and level;
- solution container;
- grinder, self-tapping screws and hammer drill.
The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out the bricks must correspond to it.
Important! The height of the bath should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.
When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily drain into the drain. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and in the front – 17 cm; a distance of 50-60 cm will be maintained between the racks.
How to install a clawfoot and brick bathtub
- on bricks;
- on legs and bricks (combined installation).
Combined installation involves screwing the legs first and only then pave the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to make markings, according to which the brickwork is then made.
Important! Do not install the bathtub on a damp surface under any circumstances. cement screed. She needs to be given a day, or even more, to dry out.
Mounting sealing foam is applied on top of the dried masonry. After this, the bath is installed. The correct installation of the structure is checked using a level.
For better shrinkage of the mounting foam, water is poured into the bath. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.
You can also make a solid brick base.
Installing a cast iron bath
Cast iron bathtubs are high quality, heavy models, characteristic feature which serve for long-term heat retention. Before you install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in its intended place with its bottom against the wall so that the outlet hole is in a certain direction.
Installation metal bath involves fixing the supports with a coupling bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly fixed. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs
Afterwards, the bathtub is turned upside down to install the side supports. Use a level and an adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue so that they do not slip on the surface, or, as an option, put plastic plugs on them.
After installing the bathtub on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all the gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end a faucet with a shower is installed.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks
As mentioned above, a cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and cannot be handled alone. Therefore, experts suggest using a combined installation option: on legs and bricks.
After installing the bathtub on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.
Important! A siphon for cast iron bathtubs must be purchased immediately of high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.
As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast iron bathtub can also be supported by racks, vertical posts installed around the perimeter of the structure. Installation on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid water spilling onto the floor.
How to install a bathtub on bricks
About how to install steel bath on bricks, we will not tell you, since the process is identical to that described above. Due to the fact that steel structures have the ability to sag; support, of course, is best placed along the entire bottom.
There is another method of installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on supports. Such baths require grounding. If the wiring suddenly becomes faulty, grounding can save lives.
Finishing
As for the decor, this process is carried out after all work on the bathroom is completed, when it is already fully installed and secured. The bathtub can be lined using tiles, plasterboard, or a special protective screen made of plastic, depending on your desire and capabilities. But when sewing up the bathtub, you should provide a window for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.
The question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about having information that many masters hide - ignorance of the subtleties is precisely the very stumbling block that makes most people give up self-installation this plumbing fixture and seek the help of professionals. In this article, together with the website, we will talk about correct sequence installing a bathtub and the subtleties that are inherent in installing a bathtub depending on the material from which it is made.
DIY bathtub installation photo
How to install a bathtub with your own hands: sequence of work
To understand general principle installation for all types of bathtubs, first we will consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both with cast iron and even acrylic ones. We will leave the subtleties of the work relating to each individual type of bathtub for last.
- Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I won’t go into the intricacies of installing a bathtub siphon, I’ll just say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. There is no need to perform any additional sealing of the joints - this will at least lead to damage to the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually supplied by the manufacturers of these products.
- Installation of supports on the bathtub. Here, too, not everything is clear - there are quite a lot of designs for supporting elements. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen completely abandon factory legs and give preference to the so-called ones. In some respects they are right - for example, it is better to install steel bathtubs this way. We'll talk a little further about how to install a bathtub on bricks.
How to install a bathtub with your own hands photo
- Insulation and soundproofing of the bathtub. This step of the work applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already quite warm and do not produce excessive noise during the process of filling them. Sound and heat insulation of the bathtub is carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the bathtub, you may need from 4 to 5 large cylinders of polyurethane foam.
- Positioning the bath relative to the horizon. The bathtub, prepared and installed in the required place, must be aligned relative to the horizon level. There is no need to lay down any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and incorporated into the design of the bathtub. Positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for these purposes adjusting screws. By unscrewing and tightening them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bathtub is installed relative to the horizon level, and then the short one. The progress of this process is controlled by a rack level.
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands photo
- Bathtub fixing. This nuance applies exclusively to steel or acrylic bathtub- such a step does not provide for, since its weight is quite enough not to sag or move under the weight of water and a person. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls using metal hooks, which are often used to install water heating tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bathtub itself during operation.
- Sealing. This is the final stage of solving the question of how to install a bathtub correctly? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - self-adhesive border tape, and in still others it can even be used tile. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bathtub (this happens when the bathtub is installed before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.
How to install a bathtub to the wall photo
This is what the solution to the question of how to install a bathtub against a wall looks like? All that remains is to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bathtub depending on the material from which it is made. That's what we'll do next.
Subtleties of installing a steel bathtub: two important points
In addition to the above, you can add only two points - the height of the installation of the bathroom and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.
You can watch the nuances of installing a steel bathtub in the video below.
Features of installing an acrylic bathtub: four decisive factors
This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the following nuances.
The nuances of installing a cast iron bathtub: what you need to know during installation
There are practically no nuances to installing this product. Or rather, they exist, but they are all described above. This bathtub does not need to be secured to the walls. All that is necessary is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust it to the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general, cast iron bathtubs are used extremely rarely in modern renovations - they are expensive and do not differ in the variety of shapes. The only obstacle to installing a cast iron bathtub is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bathtub, then enlist the help of an assistant.
Well, in conclusion to the question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. There is no need to be afraid of them - they are installed almost exactly the same way as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner baths They are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points on the long side and at one point on the short side.
Here's what you'll need for installation:
- bath;
- legs;
- installation kit;
- drain fittings;
- dowels;
- screws;
- silicone sealant;
- metal profiles;
- polyurethane foam;
- White Spirit;
- wooden blocks;
- bricks;
- cement;
- spanners;
- roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- drill;
- drill;
- hacksaw.
2. Install the legs
The first step is to attach the legs, which are usually included in the kit. To do this, turn it upside down without removing the packaging from the sides, and assemble the brackets according to the instructions. Depending on the material of the bathtub, the legs and their fastenings differ.
Such bathtubs have a special reinforcement insert made of plywood in the lower part, onto which the mounting plates are attached with screws, and the threaded rods of the legs are screwed to them.
You need to mark the mounting points in accordance with the instructions, then drill holes for the screws to the specified depth and tighten them with a screwdriver. To avoid making holes in the bathtub, use only the supplied self-tapping screws that have the calculated length.
Steel analogues are equipped with a pair of supports, which are glued with double-sided tape and pressed down with the weight of the bathtub. Another fastening option is four separate legs, fixed with special hooks on the bottom.
In the first case, it is necessary to degrease the surface with white spirit or another solvent and stick the supports. In the second, put the legs on the hooks and tighten them together with studs and nuts.
YouTube channel Craftstroy Cast iron bowls also have four separate legs, which are attached to specially cast protrusions on the bottom with holes for bolts.
To install, you need to align the legs with the protrusions, secure them with bolts and nuts and tighten them with a wrench.
The siphon and overflow system have the same design, regardless. As a rule, fittings are supplied with it. Otherwise, you need to immediately purchase the missing product in the store.
YouTube channel "Alexander Cherepitsa" Study the assembly diagram specified in the instructions. Put the pipes in place and tighten the union nuts, having previously installed O-rings on all connections. Next, a rubber gasket is put on the siphon and the entire structure is pressed to the drain hole with a screw through the protective grill.
YouTube channel “Ruslan Viktorovich” In the same way, the upper pipe is attached to the overflow hole on the bathtub. If the siphon has a drain valve rather than a regular plug on a chain, then a rotary handle is installed on the overflow grid according to the assembly instructions.
YouTube channel Cersanit Romania After installing the drain fittings, the bath is ready for installation. But before you finally fix it, you need to level the product and mark the border of the side on the wall for subsequent fastening.
To do this, move the bathtub into its place and, adjusting the height of the legs, check the horizontal position using a level. There is no need to make any slopes towards the drain: they are already provided by the manufacturer.
The height of the bathtub is selected according to location. As a rule, the distance from the top of the side to the finished floor is approximately 60 cm. The main thing is that the siphon is 3–5 cm higher than the sewer socket, otherwise the drain will be fast.
YouTube channel Cersanit Romania After preliminary alignment along the sides of the wall, you need to draw a line with a pencil. This mark is useful for mounting wall brackets and stops.
5. Mount the wall mount
Massive cast iron bathtubs stand confidently on legs and do not require additional fixation. But light steel and especially acrylic ones are also attached to the wall for reliability.
YouTube channel Cersanit Romania Such bathtubs are most often fixed with brackets in the form of hooks on which the bowl is hung. Homemade metal profile stops for drywall are also used, which perform the same function.
YouTube channel "Alexander Cherepitsa" In both cases, the fastenings are installed on dowels, for which holes are drilled. Using the line of the top of the bathtub, mark the holes for the stops so that they are strictly under the edge of the sides and evenly distribute the load.
Products made of cast iron weigh from 80 to 200 kg, so they stand reliably and do not require additional fastening.
If the bathtub comes with a factory-installed screen, then the design already includes all the necessary fasteners. If not, you will have to install mortgages into the front side, to which the screen frame is then attached.
YouTube channel “Ruslan Viktorovich” To do this you need to cut off a piece wooden block and glue it with inside sides with silicone sealant or polyurethane foam. If the bowl is adjacent not to three walls, but to only two, another block should be secured to one of the free sides.
Some acrylic bathtubs already have ready-made embeds in the form of pieces of timber along the perimeter of the sides. If you see such pieces of wood, it means you can do without additional inserts.
Acrylic and cast iron bathtubs retain heat well and do not require a layer of thermal insulation. Steel ones, on the contrary, cool quickly and are also very noisy when drawing water. Therefore, before installation, polyurethane foam, spray insulation or automotive sound insulation is applied to the bottom and walls of such bathtubs.
YouTube channel “Ruslan Viktorovich” To do this, turn the bathtub over, wipe it with a damp cloth and cover it with foam, moving like a snake from bottom to top. The average consumption per bowl is 2–3 cylinders. The foam hardening time is 3–4 hours. After this, you can install the bath.
YouTube channel Valiev Andrey DIY Sometimes, before applying insulation, the bathtub is pre-pasted with automotive sound insulation. The surface is degreased with a solvent, then removed from the adhesive base of the sheets protective film. After warming up construction hairdryer sound insulation is glued to the bottom and walls of the bathtub, and then rolled with a roller.
Now you can finally install the bathtub in the prepared place and fix it using the selected fastener option, as well as seal the joint with the wall.
To do this, silicone sealant is applied to the wall just below the previously marked side line with a snake. Then the bathtub is carefully pushed into place. The sides adjacent to the walls are placed on installed brackets or profile stops. The bowl is pressed for a tight fit so that the sealant is slightly squeezed out.
YouTube channel “Repair in detail” After installing the bathtub, the siphon is connected to the socket using a corrugated pipe or a rigid pipe with corner fittings. The latter option is preferable: dirt accumulates much less on smooth pipes.
The rubber seals of the fittings are treated with a special lubricant or ordinary detergent, and then simply connected to each other. If there are doubts about their quality, the joints can be coated with silicone sealant to be sure. But keep in mind that disassembling them in case of replacement will not be easy.
Do not forget about the slope necessary for good drainage! The siphon should be 3–5 cm higher than the sewer entrance. With a smaller drop, the water will drain, but due to blockages the drain will have to be cleaned more often.
Cast iron bathtubs have sufficient rigidity, while lightweight acrylic and steel ones can bend slightly under heavy weight. And although manufacturers allow installation exclusively on legs, for greater reliability, many craftsmen install a support cushion made of brick or gas blocks under the base of such bowls.
YouTube channel "Pavel Sidorik" To do this, take a full bath of water. Then the floor is slightly wetted, bricks or gas blocks are laid under the bottom. They are attached to the floor and to each other using cement mortar. There should be about 5–7 mm from the top of the pillow to the bathtub - this space is filled with polyurethane foam. If the layer is larger, then over time it may sag and the support will stop working.
Complete hardening of the polyurethane foam takes about a day. All this time, the bath must be filled with water, otherwise the foam, as it expands, may raise the bowl.
YouTube channel "Pavel Sidorik" While the space under the bathtub is not covered with a screen, you need to check all connections for leaks and eliminate possible leaks. To do this, you should place a newspaper under the siphon, open the drain and, while the water is draining, make sure that everything is dry. If any of the connections leak, you just need to tighten it.
After the work is completed, the space under the bathroom is covered with a screen. This can be a ready-made complete decorative panel, a purchased universal screen, PVC panels, as well as tiles on plasterboard mounted on a frame.
YouTube channel Cersanit Romania The factory screen is attached to the walls and sides with latches, like a bathtub: holes for fasteners are marked according to the diagram in the instructions and fixed with dowels. The screen is then placed on the hooks and held in place.
For homemade versions, a frame is pre-built from wooden beam or metal profiles. The upper part of the frame is attached to wooden embedded sides, the lower part is attached to dowels or silicone sealant to the floor. Next, racks are installed between them in increments of 40–50 cm.
YouTube channel "Alexander Cherepitsa" When laying tiles, the frame is pre-sheathed with sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard. A screen made of PVC panels and other linear materials is attached directly to the frame.
If the screen is not removable, it must be installed in the siphon area inspection hatch for service. It is important to position the window so that access to it is not blocked, for example, by a washbasin cabinet.
YouTube channel Cersanit Romania The final touch to installing a bathtub is sealing the joints using silicone sealant. It is better to choose a white composition to match the color of the bath. Transparent will not look very neat.
Apply a layer of sealant along the contour of the bathtub, and then lubricate soap solution sides and the wall so that the silicone does not smear when leveling. The excess is removed with a special spatula or a plastic card with a cut corner.