Today there are a huge variety of different roofing materials on the market, which differ in both price category, and in terms of quality of execution. However, most buyers prefer to choose a future roofing material that is of good quality, durability and affordability. And metal corrugated sheeting meets all these criteria. In our article we will look in detail installation of metal profiles on the roof.
1. Preparation of tools and roofing material.
2. Types of corrugated sheets.
3. Laying metal profile sheets.
4. Fastening metal profile sheets.
1. Preparing tools and material for installing metal profiles on the roof with your own hands
To do this, the following aspects must be taken into account. After measuring and purchasing corrugated sheeting, it must be transported carefully, it should be carried strictly vertically, and bending should absolutely not be allowed. It is imperative to lift all the corrugated sheets onto the roof, only one at a time, directly along the joists, which are best installed from the ground to the edge of the roof.
Installation tools:
- Electric scissors or you can use a hacksaw;
- Electric screwdriver;
- Special self-tapping screws;
2. Types of corrugated metal profiles
It all depends on the operating conditions and available finances.
There are only three markings of corrugated sheets on the market: NS, N and S.
Determining the angle of the roof
First of all, calculate the slope of the roof, which will determine the overlap of future sheets.
At an angle of inclination from 12 to 15 degrees, the overlap should be at least 20 cm.
At an angle of inclination from 16 to 30 degrees, the overlap is 15-20 cm.
When the angle of inclination is over 30 degrees, the overlap should be 10-15 cm.
3. Laying and installation of sheets.
First of all, a layer of waterproofing is laid, which will prevent moisture from entering the insulation material, rafters or sheathing. The hydrobarrier film is mounted on the rafters strictly horizontally, and it is necessary to start from the roof overhang. Fastening is carried out using special brackets with an overlap of 15 cm. For ventilation, it is better to make a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the hydrobarrier.
On the inside of the waterproofing, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation sheets, and then a vapor barrier. Then everything is secured with ventilation slats.
After this, we proceed to installing the corrugated sheet directly onto the sheathing, which will allow the structure to be strong and reliable. The necessary installation requirements are provided by the material manufacturer. By following which, you will protect your roof from condensation, heat loss or ventilation problems.
Having laid the waterproofing, we move on to the sheathing. It is best to take a block with a size of 5 x 5 cm, 3 x 10 cm or 3x7 cm. It is best to keep the rafter spacing from 90 to 120 cm.
Now we move on to installing a special end board directly above the sheathing. The height of the end board must correspond to the height of the profile. Next, we proceed to the installation of flooring from boards, which we make under the planks of the installed gutter. The overlap should be approximately 20 cm.
4. Fastening metal profile sheets to the roof.
Now we need to start installing our profile from the edge of the roof. The sheets must be attached to wooden blocks with an overlap and secured with self-tapping screws with protective rubber seals.
Every year, especially for furnishing private homes, more and more people choose metal profiles for the roof. This coating looks decent on residential or country house. Good characteristics profiled metal sheet provide greater load-bearing capacity of the material, and the absence of joints - reliable protection from rain and other atmospheric precipitation.
Main characteristics of the material
Products are produced with a given width of 900 or 1100 mm. The length varies depending on the wishes of the customer. The thickness of the sheets is 0.45−0.8 mm. Metal profiles for roofing are manufactured in accordance with GOST 380–71. The roof is covered with products with a corrugation height of 44 mm. In suburban construction, bent profiles with sealed joints made of galvanized steel 0.6−1.5 mm thick are common, with paint coating and 12.5 m long.
Other characteristics that are also advantages:
Sheets are marked in accordance with GOST 75–66: the sheet designation, quantity and length in the package are indicated. The weight of the package must be indicated on the label The package number and batch data are noted. The roof is covered with a profile marked “H” and a wave height of 35 mm.
Single- and gable roofs made of metal profiles
IN dacha construction metal roofing profile is used for covering pitched roofs. The ramp will last a long time, provided the correct calculation of the angle of inclination of the roof, which directly depends on the area of the building and the materials used in construction. The angle of inclination of the roof can be 5−60°. As it increases, the consumption of roofing material increases. A metal profile can be used if the slope angle does not exceed 25°. The installation of a 2-pitch roof begins after the roof slope has been established. The permissible value is 1:7.
Calculation of material quantity
The first step is to calculate the number of rows. If the total width of the sheet is 1.19 m, and the working width is 1.11 m, the calculation of the sheets is performed horizontally of the slope. The length of the horizontal slope is measured and divided by the working width of the sheet. The horizontal overlap of the rows is respectively: 1.19−1.11 = 0.08 m.
To form a row the total number of sheets is calculated. The length of the sheets is also calculated, for which the following formula is used: D=A+B+C, where:
- A is the length of the slope.
- B - cornice overhang (0.05 m).
- C - vertical overlap of sheets (0.15 m).
The volume of thermal insulation material is calculated by multiplying the roof area by its thickness, that is, by 0.2 m. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. The amount of waterproofing material is calculated by dividing the entire roof area by the area to be covered. The result will indicate the required number of rolls.
Tools and materials for installation
Before starting work, everything you need should be at hand and in proper form. Installation of sheets metal profile provides the following tools:
The following materials will be needed:
- hydro insulating material;
- boards;
- wooden bars.
Basic installation steps
Installation begins with laying a waterproofing layer that does not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation, onto the rafters and sheathing. For convenience of work and to prevent errors, a roof plan is drawn up in advance indicating the parameters of its main elements:
A superdiffuse membrane is used for the lining. The roof slope of 1:7 (8) is taken into account. Work on such a roof is carried out with extreme caution. Lining prevents condensation and provides protection thermal insulation material. The lining is laid from the overhang to the ridge. Fastening is carried out with 25 mm nails, with a pitch of 20 cm. A counter batten is used for fastening to the rafters. Edges folded inwards end board fastened with nails.
Installation begins from the bottom corner of the roof, the profiles are laid overlapping and attached to the sheathing beams with self-tapping screws with rubber seals.
When installing a double-slope roof, the profiled sheet begins to be attached from the right end. In the case of a hip roof, the profile begins to be attached from the highest point of the slope. Sometimes for hipped roofs aluminum profile is used.
First of all, the cornice strip is mounted with self-tapping screws. A profile-shaped seal is placed between the eaves strip and the sheet of roofing material. The cornice strip is extended 3-4 cm beyond the overhang. On one side of the profiled sheet there is a drainage groove, which should be located at the bottom.
If the slope of the slope is insignificant, compaction is made in the longitudinal seam or the sheets are laid overlapping, the size of two waves. In this case, the sheets are aligned along the overhang.
The profile is temporarily attached with self-tapping screws near the ridge and overhang, the edge is lowered approximately 4 cm beyond the edge of the roof. The next element is mounted, its edge at the overhang is aligned with the previous sheet and fixed in a similar way.
The sheet is connected to the previous screws at the crest of the wave. The direction is from the overhang to the ridge in increments of 50 cm.
After 3-4 sheets have been laid in the manner described above, they are aligned along the line at the roof overhang and are finally fixed.
The attachment to the sheathing is made at the bottom of the wave through one corrugation.
Further installation is carried out with an overlap of 20 cm and fastening to the sheathing using 4.8x35 mm roofing screws.
During installation, they move along the roof along already fixed sheets, placing their feet in the grooves of the sheet on the sheathing beams. Employees' shoes must have soft, non-slip soles. Facade cladding is made with a wall profile without a capillary groove.
When designing a residential building, there comes a time when it is necessary to decide on the choice of roofing covering. The decision-making is influenced by such factors as: cost of material, strength, reliability, complexity of installation and warranty period for aesthetic and specifications. The use of metal profiles as roofing is a kind of golden mean from the whole variety of materials offered. Low cost and excellent performance characteristics make metal profile roofing one of the most affordable and rational decisions. We will talk about how to cover a roof with a metal profile in this article.
Previously, metal profiles were used in the construction of fences and self-supporting structures, but the affordable cost and technical characteristics, similar to metal tiles, made it very good choice for the roof.
Characteristics of metal profiles
Key positive factors when using metal roofing:
- small specific gravity;
- increased safety due to fire resistance;
- corrosion resistance due to polymer and oxide coating;
- wide coverage color range;
- mechanical strength;
- range of sizes;
- affordable price.
Metal profiles are produced with a thickness of 0.4 to 1.0 mm from galvanized steel with or without polymer coating.
Three marking options are used depending on its purpose:
If the length of the roof slope requires the installation of sheets in several rows, then before attaching the metal profile to the roof, it is necessary to determine the overlap of the sheets.
The horizontal overlap is made on the sheathing and depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slope:
- with a roof slope angle of 12-15°, the minimum required overlap is 200 mm;
- with a tilt of 15-30°, the overlap limits are 150-200 mm;
- in the case where the slope of the roof slope is more than 30°, the overlap can be 100-150 mm;
- If the roof slope angle is less than 12°, the vertical and horizontal overlaps should be sealed using silicone or thiokol sealant.
The vertical overlap is made in half a wave for steeper roofs, one wave and two waves for flatter roofs (the recommended overlap must be checked with the manufacturer).
Preliminary work before installing the metal profile
Before attaching the metal profile to the sheathing, it is necessary to make all calculations according to required quantity material taking into account the length of the eaves overhang, which exceeds the length of the roof slope by 40 mm.
Cutting of the material is carried out using tin shears, mechanical cutting shears, a fine-toothed hacksaw, electric jigsaw and a carbide circular saw.
The use of an abrasive tool (for example, a grinder) is strictly prohibited! Tin shears are only suitable for longitudinal cutting of profiles. If you start cutting across the metal with them, its deformation and difficulties with further installation are inevitable!
Before covering the roof with a metal profile, you need to use a lining to take care of protection from moisture and thermal insulation. For this, a waterproofing film or membrane is used. The lining is attached to the rafters with brackets, with a slight sag of about 20 mm and a recommended overlap of 100-150 mm. It is also necessary to make a sufficient gap of 20-30 mm between the waterproofing and insulation. To fix the gasket, use a counter rail 40-50 mm wide.
Installing a roof on a roof
Before covering the roof with a metal profile, it is necessary to raise it using logs. It is necessary that three people participate in this process. The rise to the top is carried out one module at a time.
In windy weather installation work should be stopped due to the large “windage” of the profile!
Installation of metal profiles on the roof begins from the end of the roof. If a metal profile is being laid on a roof with a drainage groove, then it is necessary that the next profile sheet to be laid overlaps the groove of the previous one.
The profile sheets are mounted perpendicular to the cornice. The first sheet deserves special attention - the accuracy of the location of the entire roof as a whole depends on its correct installation.
On gable roofs installation begins from the right or left end, on hip roofs– laying is done from the middle of the hip. To control the horizontality of the roof slopes, a cord is pulled along the eaves, with the help of which the lower edges of the metal profile sheets are aligned.
Instructions for installing a metal profile may conditionally consist of the following operations:
Metal profile sheets at the ridge and overhang are attached to the sheathing through the bottom of the wave with 4.8x38 mm self-tapping screws in every second wave, at the end edges into each sheath along the bottom of the sheet. In the middle, fastening occurs in a checkerboard pattern at the rate of 4-8 screws per 1 square meter.
For long roof slopes, multi-row installation of modules is used. Fastening between the sheets occurs at each bottom of the profile along with simultaneous fixation to the sheathing. There are two versions:
Since the metal profile is fastened to the roof using self-tapping screws, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules, if followed, the roof will last for many years.
Among the variety of roofing materials, it is difficult to choose a high-quality and reliable material for your roof. Inexpensive roofing often turns out to be short-lived, difficult to repair and requires additional investment during restoration of tightness, aesthetic appearance. Although all these problems can be fundamentally eliminated if you use a metal profile for the roof. Despite their practical price, these products are distinguished by their durability, ease of installation and use, as well as excellent aesthetic quality that lasts for a long time.
In this article
In what cases are metal profiles used on the roof?
Metal profiles are perfect for buildings of any category. It can be laid on the roofs of simple country houses, without rafter system, on the roofs frame houses with lightweight walls and foundation. Light weight allows it to be used in buildings various types, and thanks to the modern assortment it is possible to choose convenient option, which is suitable for a house of any architectural complexity. This coating is suitable for both residential buildings and outbuildings, garages, gazebos.
What is a roofing material?
This roof covering is made from steel sheets good quality, covered with zinc layer and polymer compounds, giving the product significant security benefits. A metal profile with a protective special coating is better protected from corrosion, due to the elimination of contact metal surface with atmospheric humidity. This treatment prevents scratches and will also ensure long-term color stability. Therefore, such a roof is used in any climatic conditions.
Characteristics
Since the base material is made up of durable metal, the thickness of the product is about 1 mm - the main coating weighs relatively little, which makes it easier to transport and install.
in winter and in early spring there is a danger of large snow and ice falling off the roof of the house. This is due to the fairly smooth surface, but also, of course, the slope of your roof. When layers of ice and snow converge, they can cause considerable damage to: gutters, fences, nearby buildings, and cars. The main thing is that pets and members of your family may be harmed. To prevent this, there should be snow retainers on the eaves.
Making a metal roof with your own hands
There is no particular difficulty in how to attach a metal profile to the roof. When laying, the sheets are secured with self-tapping screws as much as possible in the lower part, which ensures tight alignment with the sheathing and the absence of deformation. During installation, the self-tapping screws are covered by the top row of corrugated sheeting, so the roof looks like a solid surface without the distracting elements of protruding fasteners.
But there are other subtleties of installation that can be learned with experience, so it’s better not to bother self-installation, but invite professional roofers. Especially if there are many complicated areas on the roof. A do-it-yourself metal profile roof will require some calculations:
- Measuring the roof slope. The amount of overlap will depend on this. A minimum overlap of 200 mm will be required.
- A slope angle of less than 12 degrees will definitely require additional sealing with sealants.
- Next, you will need to calculate the number of sheets used before covering the roof. Selecting desired length, it should be taken into account that the length of the flooring will be slightly longer than the length of the cornice.
- Before you can properly cover the roof, you will need to make high-quality hydro and sound insulation of the roof with your own hands.
- The final stage will be laying out the slats to achieve the effect of air circulation between the waterproofing and the metal profile. This greatly helps protect your structure from rot and mold.
Pros and cons of installation
Buying a metal profile for a roof is a promising solution, since the service life is designed to last more than 20 years of intensive use. Guaranteed to last for more than 50 years without requiring replacement.
But there are also disadvantages. Thus, poor-quality fastening of the metal profile on the roof reduces its sound insulation. To correct this error, use various building materials that meet the appropriate parameters. Rain and hail knock on the metal, producing characteristic, by no means quiet sounds. But this can be partially avoided by adding an additional layer of insulation and PVC film. But first you need to understand the reasons for the deterioration of sound insulation. And most often they are associated with poor-quality installation.
- Small roof inclination angle. At the same time, noise appears when precipitation falls in the form of rain or hail.
- The uneven design of the sheathing and the small number of fasteners contribute to the appearance of “voids” (areas of poor connection with the sheathing). In these places, the roofing metal profile begins to slap against the sheathing. And it is better to purchase self-tapping screws that are recommended by the manufacturer of roofing materials.
- Incorrect cutting of sheets and their overheating at the seams leads to significant deformation, which also affects poor fit to the sheathing. When installing sheathing under a metal profile, flaws in the rafter system must be eliminated so that the finished sheathing is perfectly flat, without bumps or depressions.
Elimination of noise defect
As mentioned above, sound insulation of the roof is carried out using special building materials, which must be selected competently and wisely. Insulating material is laid between the rafters. From above it is limited by the sheathing. It would seem that everything is simple, but there is one “but”. Sound insulation will not work 100% if the influence of the so-called “acoustic bridges” is not eliminated. The rafters are passing sound vibrations roofs to wall cladding. The result is a resonating surface, the vibration of which the insulating material is unable to reduce. Is being decided this problem by creating insulating pads, which can be made of polyethylene foam or ordinary felt. These gaskets are laid in two directions - along the rafters and on the drywall.
One of the most common ways to cover a roof with additional sound insulation is a single-layer or two-layer installation of insulating material.
The quality of the material largely depends on the manufacturer, so it is worth studying reviews of different companies. When choosing a coating, study its cut - it is better to choose one with a thick layer of metal. Check for strength. Also check with the manufacturer how the material is stored in the warehouse. It is necessary that there are special separators between the sheets of metal.
Profiled a metal sheet, or metal profiles, is one of the most popular and sought-after materials on the construction market. They line walls, arrange roofs, and even build small buildings. It’s all about the advantages of this material and the ease of its installation. Let's say even more: the appearance of profiled sheets on the market has significantly expanded construction prospects.
Now you can easily make roofs curved and fancy shapes, while maintaining their complete tightness. Do you want to understand everything in more detail? So, a new bright roof made of metal profiles - at a minimum cost!
As a roofing material, metal profiles are excellent. Quite light, strong, sealed and durable. Its rich range of colors and the ability to achieve almost any shape make it possible to turn any designer’s idea into reality.
But for all its rigidity and light weight, combined with an affordable price for many, the metal profile has a serious drawback - windage. This is an additional force that helps the wind tear the covering away from the roof frame. Why doesn't the same thing happen with regular tiles? Because it consists of many individual parts, but sheets of metal profiles are usually large in area and at the same time light. Like a parachute.
That is why, if you are covering the roof of a house with a metal profile in an area with high wind loads, use high-quality fasteners and think carefully in advance about what angle of inclination will be optimal.
The second minus is the noise of the rain. Although, in fairness, it is worth noting that most owners of such a roof consider the loud knocking of drops to be an insignificant minus. Yes and modern means Soundproofing can completely solve this problem.
But not every corrugated sheet is suitable for roofing, but only certain brands, which are listed in this table:
Find a good supplier, purchase quality material and read our instructions in detail.
How to bend sheets to install an arched roof?
Let's start with what kind of roof will you make? Simple geometry, arched or complex in design? After all, with such material everything is possible!
Arched metal profile is a sought-after flexible raw material, which is mainly used for the construction of round or irregular shape buildings. The main advantage of building such a roof is that solid sheets are installed, without any breaks or ridges. Moreover, even with a small thickness, a bent arched metal profile can withstand point loads of up to 20 kg.
It will not be possible to make such a roof using a regular wall profile sheet. The thinner and cheaper the profile, the less durable it is, not to mention its low resistance to atmospheric factors. But from the carrier - it’s as simple as shelling pears. But there is also a secret in this matter: the higher the corrugation of the sheets, the more difficult it will be to bend them. Therefore, purchase almost flat sheets for this purpose.
And now – about the metal profile bending technology itself. Do not try to bend the purchased metal profile with a regular hammer, as “experienced” builders sometimes advise. You will only damage the coating and make it uneven. What you end up with will be no better than a rumpled one. tin can- neither in appearance nor in practicality.
You can entrust this matter to local workshops, where there is a fairly large automatic line to give the profiled sheets the desired angle.
So, if you need to slightly bend a profiled sheet for a roof, follow these steps:
- Step 1. Arm yourself with a regular metal corner and a straight board.
- Step 2. Use a permanent marker to mark on the sheet exactly where the center of the bend will be.
- Step 3. Place the corner on a flat surface, and place the metal profile on top of it.
- Step 4. Lay the board along the drawn line, press it with your feet and press on the edge so that the material begins to give in.
- Step 5. In those places where the material begins to swell, tap the block with a hammer.
- Step 6. Now repeat the same with each individual section.
- Step 7. To ensure that the resulting angle is even, after bending, carefully roll it with a piece of pipe wrapped in electrical tape - so as not to further damage the coating.
Here is the second method, more complex:
- Step 1. Mark the line of the future bend on the sheet.
- Step 2. Place the sheet of paper in a line directly on the 40th corner.
- Step 3. Using a steel roller with a 45° bevel, roll along the line with pressure. For each pass (and you need to do everything 5-6 times), the sheet will bend by 10-20°.
The evenness of the rib at the exit will be much better, only the coating will be slightly damaged - just tint it.
Ready bent profile Easily attaches to wooden and tubular frames using a hand-held screwdriver:
How to cut sheets to the desired size?
Metal profiles can and should be cut to fit complex areas of the roof. But how? This is where there are many different subtleties and nuances. And the whole point is in the complex structure of the metal profile, which, unlike an ordinary sheet of metal, is a whole “ layered cake": metal base, protective and decorative layers. It is precisely the destruction of the latter that leads to corrosion and a significant reduction in the service life of the coating. That is why you need to cut the metal profile correctly, and we will now tell you in detail how.
Here are the traditional tools that are most often used for this purpose:
What is the biggest fear of such roofing material? Heating! And when cutting with abrasive wheels in a high-speed tool, this is exactly what happens, and all the layers at the cut site burn out. The width of the damaged area reaches 3-5 mm, which is quite noticeable, which is why the so-called “edge corrosion” occurs.
Why can't you cut with a grinder?
Most often, such material is cut with ordinary metal scissors, and it is not recommended to use a grinder, which also cuts unevenly. The second danger is sparks flying out from under the abrasive tool. Their heat(like fire) damages polymer coating even tens of centimeters from the incision site.
Therefore, if you really have to cut a metal profile with a grinder, then replace abrasive wheel on a cut-off, although this is not the most the best option. There will still be damage, just in lesser quantities.
But do not use a grinder with a diamond disk, which supposedly heats the metal profile less: this material will cause large burrs. All the advantages of working with this tool are its durability.
Working with hand scissors
And for adjusting profiled sheets of small thickness, ordinary ones are more suitable for you. hand scissors For sheet metal or special electric ones specifically for working with metal profiles. Modern market produces three types of them:
- Die-cut.
- Knife.
- Slotted, with a special head for precise cutting without deformation.
The so-called nibblers are also convenient for cutting metal profiles. Their trick is that they cut the metal profile along two parallel straight lines at once, and the sheet no longer bends. In addition, thanks to the rotation of the holder, you can cut the profile at right angles without burrs. But such a tool, of course, is not cheap.
Therefore, if you are working on your own project and there is no point in spending money on expensive roofing equipment, use the most common attachment on a cordless drill, which is good for fitting metal profiles in hard-to-reach places.
Using an electric saw
Many experienced builders They also prefer to use an electric saw in order to maximize the quality of the roofing material. In addition, this tool has more advantages:
- Twice the speed of cutting sheets due to the ease of working with the tool.
- The saw speed is almost two times lower. Thanks to this, the metal does not melt, but is cut out with fine sawdust.
It is only important to use the electric saw carefully, because... Small metal splinters can scratch your skin. That's why, if you are new to this business and only need to cut a couple of sheets, purchase a regular classic cutting tool. This hand saw for metal, easy to use and absolutely safe for humans.
Jigsaw for curved cuts
But if you need to make curved cuts of the desired shape, you will need a jigsaw. Typically, such work is necessary when installing coatings in places where smoke and ventilation pipes. In principle, there is nothing complicated, you just need to carefully and in advance make precise markings of the cutout on the sheet. The disadvantage of using a jigsaw is that it makes sense to use it only on those sheets whose profile height does not exceed 20 mm - otherwise the metal will simply tear.
Handling random damage
After cutting the sheets, immediately collect the resulting sawdust and throw it away. If left, these crumbs will begin to rust in the rain, infecting a high-quality roof with corrosion. A year or two, and appearance the roof of your house will be hopelessly damaged.
If scratches on the sheet cannot be avoided, you will have to deal with them. Perfect option- just tint it the same color. Therefore, even before the start roofing works get a can of paint of the same shade.
The market also offers a new high-precision roofing tool MP. It is made of high-quality steel, does not require frequent sharpening, is convenient, and accurately and quickly cuts the desired shape from a metal profile.
And finally. The profiled sheet weighs a lot, so adjust it directly on construction site. And remember the standards: the minimum sheet length should be 45 cm, and the maximum - 7 meters.
Installation of a metal profile roof: step by step
Well, the material has been purchased, cut, bent and ready for installation. Now carefully draw your roof, and mark the sketches of future sheets on it. This layout is simply necessary in order to use the available material as efficiently as possible.
Stage I. Preparation of sheets for installation
So, start installation from the ground. Place the sheets in separate piles for each slope. Wear protective gloves and hold the sheets by the edge of the stamping line when moving. If there is wind on such days, watch the leaves - they can easily be torn off even from the ground.
Stage II. Installation of sheathing and waterproofing
Next, we install the sheathing under the metal profile. The vertical pitch of the boards should be from 0.5 meters to 1 meter, and the horizontal pitch should be half as much, from 25 cm to 50 cm. And here there are some subtleties: what more boards will go to the sheathing, the higher the soundproofing qualities of the roof will be, since wood is capable of absorbing sounds.
And if the valley will be installed later, then before installing the metal profile, lay the strips with an internal corner.
Stage III. Purchase of self-tapping screws for metal profiles
Now let's look at the fastening. Self-tapping screws with a press washer are traditionally used for fastening metal profiles for the purpose of cladding facades or when internal works, but only those that have special seals made of artificial rubber are suitable for roofing installation. This modification allows you to maximally seal the places where the sheets are attached to the sheathing, and rainwater no longer falls under the roof.
The screws themselves for metal profiles are rods with a head and a sharp thread. They are made with a special EPDM gasket, which additionally seals the holes and prevents corrosion.
Also, special roofing screws for metal profiles are distinguished by the presence of a special drill tip, thanks to which for work it is enough to arm yourself with only a screwdriver. Minimum fastening operations, minimum labor costs – and at the same time high efficiency works:
All these screws are produced with a ready-made paint coating to make them invisible against the background of the entire roof. And don’t take the cheapest screws. The fact is that the requirements for these fasteners are serious!
Have you stocked up on the right number of screws? Then let's move on.
Stage IV. Installation of roofing sheets
Before starting installation of the metal profile, first install cornice strip, and fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.
Prepare everything you need for work, and lift the sheets onto the roof using guides from the boards. Next, start installing the metal roofing from the bottom left, gradually filling the rows and moving towards the ridge. Place each next sheet under the last wave of the previous one. Fix the sheets with self-tapping screws near the joints:
Secure the metal profile with roofing screws protective coating the same color. Standard dimensions are 4.8x28 mm. Screw them perpendicular to the laid sheathing until the EPDM gasket is slightly compressed. You can’t tighten it too much or squeeze it any harder. The lowest row of metal profiles should protrude beyond the roof eaves by 4 cm, and each top row should cover the bottom by 20 cm.
Screw the screws themselves only into concave waves in order to securely fix the roofing material:
Stage V. Installation of the ridge and additional elements
After the profile sheets have been laid, internal joints install the upper valley bar - this way you will cover the unevenness. Install the end strips on top of the wave of sheets and secure them with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.
When you begin installing the roof ridge, first place a protective pad under it and secure it with nails. The ridge strips need to be fastened through the wave of the sheet, and the overlap should be 10-20 cm. Attach ridge caps to the ends of the ridge so that moisture does not get under the ridge.
Now we are working with the chimney. It is traditionally used for making planks adjacent to roofing material, or buy ready-made ones, which usually come standard size(like the chimney itself).
Remove steel shavings and any remaining debris from such a roof with a soft-bristled brush to avoid damaging the coating with small scratches.
A couple of months after installation, check the strength of the screws. Did you find them loose? Attach them again, and the metal profile roof can be considered completely finished.