Installing balusters on a wooden staircase with your own hands: installing railings and balusters with a step-by-step process. Handrails for stairs with your own hands Attaching a fence to a metal staircase

Not a single private house with two or more floors can do without stairs. There are many requirements for such structures. And one of the key ones is safety in use, especially if there are small children living in the house. In order to make the staircase as comfortable and safe to use as possible, as well as to make it more aesthetically pleasing appearance, balusters are installed on it.

IN of this publication installation of balusters on wooden stairs with your own hands. Due to the fact that there are various ways installation of these elements, from the information presented below you can choose the most suitable option for a particular case.

What are these - balusters?

To begin with, perhaps in order to broaden your horizons, it makes sense to understand what balusters are and where they are used, except for framing staircases. Perhaps this information can be useful when decorating other areas of a private home.

So, balusters are small racks that can have different shapes and thickness. They are made from a variety of materials and used in different areas of the building, depending on the style of its design.

Interestingly, balusters have been used since the construction of the palaces of the Assyrian rulers and before today, almost in its original form. With change architectural styles, these elements changed shape, the masters used various materials for their manufacture. But at the same time, their purpose does not change, as well as their former demand in construction.

Thus, a row of balusters forms a balustrade, which has been widely used since ancient times. Moreover not only when fencing stairs, but also to support roof overhangs. In the latest versions, the balusters had very impressive sizes and were installed from the base of the facade to the roof. In addition, the balusters installed on the facades also performed decorative functions, setting the design style of the building’s exterior.

IN last years, with the return of such architectural styles as Russian classicism, baroque and empire, the elements that are integral to these directions are again returning to widespread use. And balusters are among them.

Variety of balusters based on material of manufacture

If previously similar architectural elements were made from stone, wood or clay, and later they began to be made from concrete, gypsum and metal, today polymers have been added to these materials (most often these are - polyurethane). And in order to understand how the racks differ from each other, and which of them can be used on a wooden staircase, it is necessary to consider them in more detail.

Plaster and concrete balusters

Balusters made of concrete and gypsum can be combined into one group, since they are made using the same technology. These types of figured posts are a classic option; today they are mainly used for various areas of the exterior design of a building - this can be the fencing of balconies, terraces, stairs, as well as the eaves lines of flat roofs.

The framework for balusters made of concrete or gypsum is a reinforcement cage. It is placed in a special mold, into which the solution is then poured. After removal from molds finished products, if necessary, they are sent for the grinding process.

When completed, the “classic” baluster takes the shape of an elongated flowerpot, intercepted in a narrow place by a ring. Creating this most common The shapes of the staircase posts are attributed to the famous Italian scientist, artist and architect Michelangelo.

If cast balusters are intended for use outdoors, they are impregnated with special compounds and, if necessary, painted.

Prices for balusters

baluster

Previously, similar elements of balustrades and stair railings were manufactured as separate products, from which the overall composition was built. Nowadays, quite often sections are poured out entirely, and the entire fencing structure is assembled from them. Moreover, sections can be straight, curved at different angles or semicircular, depending on the shape of the staircase or balcony landing that they should enclose. In order for the sections to be precisely adjusted to the area intended for them, they are most often made to order, with the necessary measurements taken.

The disadvantage of these designs is their quite high price, as well as a very considerable mass of products. Therefore, both single balusters of gypsum or concrete, and sections of them are almost never used to enclose wooden stairs.

Stone balusters

The most durable, but also the most expensive in price, are stone balusters. They can be made in two ways. The first is by turning products from solid or separate pieces of stone, from which a baluster is then assembled by hand. Another option is balusters made from artificial stone. They, by analogy with concrete ones, are produced by casting. To do this, a special solution is poured into prepared forms. The solution consists of stone chips, sand, cement, fine gravel, and dye. Recently, glass fiber has been most often used as a reinforcing agent.

Balusters made of natural or artificial stone are most often used for stairs or facades lined with the same material. They are ideal for such areas and add special respectability to the appearance of the building. Stone balusters are not installed on wooden stairs: firstly, because they are quite heavy, and secondly, because stone and wood still do not harmonize very well with each other.

Unlike concrete and gypsum, stone products can have a wider range of different shapes.

Metal balusters

Metal posts for fencing stairs and other areas of the building are produced by forging, casting or welding. They are usually made to order for specific place installations, according to a pre-drawn sketch and accurate calculations.

Metal balustrades, unlike other products, are used for fencing not only stairs and other areas of the house, but also for windows - as protective and decorative grilles. Moreover, products made by any of the three listed methods are suitable for this purpose.

Metal balusters can have various shapes, and be voluminous or flat. Last option can be found in multi-storey buildings, built in pre-revolutionary Russia.

Metal balusters made of thin elements can be used in combination with a wooden staircase. With the correct, not excessive combination and proportionality of parts, wood and metal are in perfect harmony with each other.

Prices for metal balusters

metal baluster

Polyurethane balusters

Polyurethane balusters are lightweight and can be given absolutely any shape. In addition, their price is much more affordable, unlike all the above options. The products are made from high-density polymer and are not afraid of mechanical stress.

Such balusters consist of a shell made of polyurethane and a supporting frame, which is a metal rod that gives the product a certain weight, making the product more stable. In addition, the rod, embedded in a polyurethane body, has holes or mounting pads in its end sides for attaching balusters to the base and railings. Due to the fact that this type of product is light in weight and can be decorated to match any material, it can be used for installation on both stone and wooden stairs.

It is also interesting that polyurethane products can very reliably imitate almost any of the above materials.

Find out how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.

Wooden balusters

Balusters made from natural wood, are traditional for Russian architectural styles. They can be made in the form of volumetric or flat relief elements. Volumetric products are turned from processed round timber, and flat balusters are cut from boards different thicknesses and width. That's why various options Such products may differ significantly in the method of installation and fastening.

On the facades of private houses built of wood, you can often see balustrades used as fencing for balconies, consisting of such figured columns. If you have a lathe in your personal workshop, you can easily make them yourself.

Flat balusters can also be cut out with your own hands from quality boards using, for example, an electric jigsaw. Well, then, with patience, you will have to process their edges until they are perfectly smooth.

Properly manufactured and treated wooden fences will probably last no less than stone or the other material mentioned above. Of course, balusters, also made of wood, are best suited for a wooden staircase. They are perfectly combined in weight, texture and possible design solutions, opening ample opportunities to express the imagination of the owners of the house.

Staircase design and methods of attaching balusters

Place of balusters in a staircase structure

It makes sense to consider the general one and become familiar with the names of the parts that make up it. In addition, it is necessary to choose the option of installing and securing the racks of the enclosing structure.

The main elements of a wooden interfloor staircase are shown in the illustration:

When drawing up a drawing for the construction of a staircase, as well as when studying the description installation work to arrange it, you can refer to this diagram, since it indicates the location and name of all the main parts of the structure.

So, balusters can be installed on the edges of the surfaces of steps or on a string.

The top picture shows a staircase in construction which balusters are installed on the steps. In this case, the width of the steps allows you to install two wooden decorative fencing posts on their edges. In this case, the upper edge of the balusters is cut at the same angle at which the flight of stairs is installed.

If the string of the staircase structure has a large width sufficient for the size of the base of the balusters, then they can be installed on it in order to maintain the width of the flight of stairs. However, this installation option can be called more complex, since not only the upper, but also the lower side of the balusters will have to be cut to the desired angle. It is clear that the lower edge will have to correspond to the inclination of the bowstring.

Prices for railings

This diagram shows the installation principle and fastening of balusters to a bowstring. If wooden balusters are selected, then they are cut at an angle of installation of the flight of stairs. If you choose a polyurethane or metal version of the racks, and they are supposed to be installed on a string, then you will have to arrange some kind of steps-stands on it for the balusters. The horizontal surface of such steps must be parallel to the floor of the room.

However, due to the fact that the most commonly used ones are balusters made from natural wood, options for their installation will be considered below.

Attaching balusters to steps or strings must be done using dowels, pins or self-tapping screws. It is not recommended to fix retaining elements with nails, since in this case, the reliability and safety of the structure is difficult to guarantee. Considering that the staircase is constantly experiencing mechanical and vibration loads, the nails will quickly expand the hole through which they are driven into wood, as a result which does not rule out the possibility that the staircase railing structure will quickly become loose and become very unreliable.

Options for attaching balusters to studs

Using pins, balusters can be attached to the surface in several ways. In this case, either smooth or threaded studs are used.

In order to fasten the balusters to smooth studs, markings are made at the end of the racks, since the hole must be drilled exactly in the center of the base of the product. Then, at the found point, a hole with a depth of no more than 80 mm and a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm is drilled.

The diameter of the hole is selected depending on the size of the end of the baluster and, of course, on the diameter of the pin. It should be about 1 millimeter larger. It must be drilled very carefully, otherwise the wooden product may crack. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to first drill a hole with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, and then expand it to the required size.

To ensure that the pin fits tightly into its seat, wood glue is poured into it, and the end of the pin for a length of 50÷60 mm is not only treated with an adhesive composition, but can also be sprinkled with small sawdust. After the pin is prepared, it is inserted into the hole in the end of the baluster using a screwing motion. A part of it 70÷80 mm long should remain outside. Excess glue that appears is immediately removed, otherwise, after hardening, it will interfere with the installation of the baluster on the step or string of the staircase structure.

Prices for steps for stairs

Another option for using studs as fastening is to screw them in. In this case, studs are selected that have threads at both ends: On the one side metric, with the second - by type of screw.

In order to screw such a pin into the end of the baluster, a hole with a diameter of 1–2 mm less than the thread of the fastening element is drilled in it. Before screwing in, the hole is also filled with glue, and the pin is screwed into it with its pointed end. For screwing on metric thread two or three nuts are screwed in and locked, and screwing in will be easy with a regular socket wrench

To ensure that the second end of the hairpin is securely held in the step or bowstring, you can do this. A hole of the same diameter is drilled in their surface as in the end of the baluster, and then top part expands to accept one or more nuts, which must be recessed flush with the main surface.

The balusters can be installed in place only after the glue around the nut has completely dried. Before screwing the baluster into place, the hole will need to be filled with glue.

Using a threaded rod and a nut, you can do it differently, but only if the baluster will be attached to a step that has a small thickness. In this option, a through hole is drilled in the step, into which a pin is inserted, glued into the baluster. Then, from the bottom side of the step, a washer of the appropriate size is put on the stud, after which a nut is screwed onto the thread, which will press the baluster to the step. In this option, it is recommended that before installing the baluster on the step, coat its entire end side around the installed pin with wood glue.

The next option for installing a baluster can be considered the use of a hairpin, the outer end of which, coming from the end, is also a kind of thick screw. Installation involves directly screwing the stud into the step board, pre-coating the end part of the baluster with wood glue.

Installation of balusters on wooden dowels

Now it’s worth considering securing wooden balusters to dowels. This method, by the way, is considered traditional for installing stairs. Dowels are easy to use, and in addition, they can be made independently. However, you can also buy it in a store furniture fittings They are not difficult, since their cost is very low.

Prices for wooden stairs

wooden staircase

For this process, you only need the dowels themselves of the required length and diameter, as well as wood glue. The diameter of the dowel can be from 8 to 12 mm, and the length is 100÷120 mm. To install the dowel, a hole is marked and drilled in the center of the end of the baluster larger size a dowel with a diameter of 1÷2 mm and a depth of approximately half the length of this fastening rod. Then, the hole is filled with glue and a dowel is inserted into it. Before continuing work, the glue must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Any excess that appears on the surface must be removed immediately after gluing the part. It is important to glue the dowel exactly vertically, otherwise the baluster will be installed crookedly on the stairs.

To secure a baluster to a string or step, their installation points are marked, which must be located along the same line. At the found points, holes for dowels are drilled. When the glue on the balusters has dried, their end is coated with a layer of the same glue, it is also poured into the hole on the step or string, and then the dowel is tightly inserted into the hole. After this, the baluster must be firmly fixed until the glue hardens. At the same time, the racks are aligned, which is controlled using a building level.

Fastening balusters with self-tapping screws

The simplest and most accessible way for any craftsman to fasten balusters, both on the string and on the steps, is to fix them with self-tapping screws 80÷100 mm long.

This type of fastening cannot be called traditional, however, it fully lives up to the expectations for a reliable and durable fastening. The self-tapping screw is screwed through the baluster into the string or step from the side, obliquely, into a pre-drilled hole for it of a smaller diameter than the fastening element itself. Since the head of the screw must be recessed into the wood, for it, the hole in the upper part is expanded (countersinked). After the self-tapping screw is screwed into the wood, the cap will disappear into the nest prepared for it; the holes will be masked with wood putty of a suitable color.

Balusters can also be fixed to the handrails with self-tapping screws. But for this purpose, fasteners of shorter length are usually chosen, since in no case should they pass through the railing. The head of the self-tapping screw is also buried in the countersunk socket in the same way, and then masked with putty.

The process of installing a wooden balustrade on the stairs - step by step

Now, having understood the methods of fastening balusters, we can move on to considering the stages of installation work on assembling the stair railing as a whole.

The instruction table below will present one of the options for assembling a staircase balustrade. However, it should be noted that this method is not the only one, since each master works according to his own template, developed over the years.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	So, after the steps of the stairs are mounted, their edge area is marked. The installation line of support pillars and balusters is determined. For marking, you will need a flat metal or wooden plank with a length equal to the length of the flight of stairs, a metal ruler, a pencil and construction square. By the way, you can use a galvanized profile, which is used for installing plasterboard structures. The profile or plank is laid along the edge of the steps, approximately at the same distance from the edge. Then, the exact distance from the edge to the plank is measured across the entire width of the step, and a line is drawn at the points found. Thus, all steps are marked. At the end of the process, all lines on the steps must coincide with the common bar.
	The next step is to determine the locations for fastening the support pillars, between which the balusters will be fastened. The pillars should have a cross-sectional size larger than the balusters, approximately twice as large. For example, if the balusters have a size of 50x50 mm, then the pillars should have a cross-section of at least 80x80, and preferably 100x100 mm. You can use a pin, screw or dowel to secure the support posts. If the pole is installed on a wooden surface, the length of the fastening element should be 100 mm and the diameter 8÷10 mm. In this case, these bolts with conical threads are used, like a screw.
	In the example shown, the upper platform on which the staircase rests is made of concrete. Therefore, calculating the action plan in advance, a so-called embed was built into the concrete at the edge of the site - this is a metal plate measuring 80×80 or 100×100 mm and a thickness of at least 4÷5 mm. On top of the plate, strictly vertically, the mentioned bolt-screw with a length of 100 mm and a diameter of 8 mm is welded.
	A hole corresponding to the diameter of the welded bolt is drilled in the lower end part of the support column. Then, the post is simply screwed onto a threaded pin welded to the mortgage. To ensure that the pole is pressed tightly to the floor surface, bottom part drilled hole can be expanded a little.
	If the support post is installed on a plank surface, then a hole for the fastener is drilled in it, just like in the end of the post, according to pre-made markings.
	The post can be fixed to a horizontal surface using the same bolt. To do this, you will have to drill a through hole in the wooden surface of the stairs, and then start fastener from below, having previously placed a wide metal washer on it. You can fix the post with a dowel, gluing it into the end of the post, and then into the hole of the step, or with a pin, screwing it first into the end of the post, and then into the step board. In a word, by any of the methods discussed above, whichever seems more convenient.
	Typically, the bottom support pillar in a flight of stairs is mounted on the last step and pressed against the riser of the previous step, which gives it some additional rigidity.
	Installing support pillars, it is necessary to ensure that they are not only perfectly vertical, but also on the same line, otherwise the staircase railings will be installed crookedly or will not be able to fit into their designated place at all.
	Having installed the support pillars, you can proceed to determining the mounting points for the balusters. For this procedure you will need a construction corner and a ruler. If the steps are wide enough, then it is best to attach two balusters to each of them. All elements of the balustrade must be located at the same distance from each other. Typically, when installing two balusters on each step, the distance between them is 70÷80 mm. The exact location is marked along a previously outlined general line.
	After the installation points for the balusters are determined, through holes are drilled through them, through which the racks will be fixed to the steps. If you choose the option of fastening using dowels or pins, then before gluing fasteners into the balusters, half of the racks will need to be shortened somewhat so that they are installed exactly under the handrail. Thus, the first baluster of the step remains at its original height, and the second, located closer to the bottom step, is shortened by approximately half the height of the step. In each specific case, the cut part will have its own size, depending on the width and height of the step.
	Balusters can be attached to the steps using any of the methods described above or, as in this case, using a bolt-screw screwed from below through a through hole in the step board into a hole drilled in the lower end of the baluster. A metal washer is put on the bolt, then it is inserted from the bottom of the step into the hole and screwed using a socket wrench-ratchet through the board into the hole drilled in the end of the baluster. A screw 80 mm long and 6 mm in diameter is suitable for this purpose.
	When all the balusters are secured to the steps, a straight guide bar is attached to them so that it passes through the upper corners of the balusters. The plank can be secured using clamps. After this, along the guide, on each of the balusters, a line for the future cut is drawn with a pencil. In addition, the vertical location of each of the racks is also marked on the guide. The balusters must be numbered so that there is no confusion during further assembly of the structure.
	After this, the balusters are carefully unscrewed and removed from the steps. Holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled in the center of their end upper part. Then, using a miter saw, cuts are made along the marked lines. The next step, according to the numbering, is to return the balusters to their original place and secure them to the guide along the pre-made marking lines.
	Now you can move on to working on the railings. The first thing that needs to be done is to determine the cut angle of the ends of this part, since they should be used to connect it to the support posts. For this purpose, you can use a tool such as a malka. Experienced carpenters advise simply not to change the angle set on the saw for cutting down the balusters. Before making cuts, it is necessary to accurately determine the length of the railing. To do this, they are laid on the edge of the steps, from the supporting upper to the lower pillar, and their exact length is marked with a pencil, taking into account the oblique cut. The width of the railing should be equal to the width of the support posts.
	After this, oblique cuts of the railing beams are made according to the markings. Further cut end sides must be thoroughly cleaned using sandpaper.
	Now on the railing beam, along its entire length, it is necessary to cut a groove, the width of which should be equal to the width of the balusters. The groove depth should be 7÷8 mm. The groove should be in the middle part of the beam, that is, it is made at a distance of 12–15 mm from the edges. To make such a groove, of course, there is no way to do without a manual or stationary milling machine.
	To securely fasten the railing, you will additionally need a wooden railing strip with a thickness of 8÷10 mm and a width equal to the width of the groove cut in the railing. The underrail is screwed with self-tapping screws to the upper ends of the balusters while they are fastened with a guide rail. The bar will replace the last one and fix the racks in the required position. Once it is secured, the temporary guide can be removed.
	Railings are laid on top of the planks and screwed to it from below using self-tapping screws.
	Additionally, the railings, wherever they are installed, are fixed with long self-tapping screws to the support posts. To do this with outside a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled into the column. First, the hole is widened so that the self-tapping screw goes deep into the wood, approximately 20 mm, passes through the post and is screwed into the end of the railing by 30–40 mm. The length of the screw is calculated depending on the size of the support post.

Additionally, it is necessary to recall that when installing balusters on their permanent place for any fastening, it is recommended to coat their end surfaces with wood glue. It is best to do the same when installing the railing strip, as well as the railing itself. The glue, when hardened, will strengthen the structure and make it more durable.

Not as easy as it might seem at first sight. To get a strong and reliable structure, you first need to carry out accurate calculations, taking into account the height of the rise, free space, which can be assigned to it, ergonomic criteria and even the height and weight of the inhabitants of the house. In these calculations, every parameter is important, from the thickness and width of the steps, to the cross-section and height of the balusters, as well as other structural details. Therefore, in order for the staircase structure to be safe and reliable in operation, it is best to entrust its calculation to specialists. And if you plan to build the staircase completely on your own, then you will need to strictly follow the drawn up drawing, observing all the dimensions indicated in it.

Video: The final stage of installation of a home interfloor wooden staircase - installation of support pillars, balusters and railings

The surface on which the product is installed must provide a tight fit to the mounting flange, and the foundation must be strong to ensure normal operation of the anchor. The presence of voids under the tiles/floor tiles is not allowed.
Balusters can be installed either one per step or two at a time.

Poor-quality mounting surface (low strength characteristics of load-bearing elements, leveling mortars, concrete, that is, less than C20/25, voids under tiles, etc.) can lead to low structural strength of stair railings and will manifest itself during work as violations of the mounting surface, for example , cracks, chips of tiles. All this can reduce the life of the railing. How is fencing installed?
Preparatory work

Diagram of fencing elements.

Mark the landings and flights of stairs for the installation of racks, which are installed every 900-1200 mm. The racks on flights of stairs are usually placed every two steps to the third, sometimes three to the fourth. It is advisable to install the end posts of flights of stairs opposite each other.
This will allow you to connect them together, which will significantly increase the strength of the fences.

It is necessary to check the compliance of the set obtained after marking and the ordered set of fencing. If they do not match, make adjustments to the markings or order the required set.
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Installation of fences: preparing racks

Railing installation diagram.

Racks are supplied in the form of pipe sections with holes for fastening holders (earrings) for filling the fence. According to the standards, the lengths of the manufactured racks are: 850, 1000, 1200 mm.
When equipped with a two-part earring and attached to the outer wall of the rack, in order to install the holders in the rack, it is necessary to install M5 threaded rivets. Place them. Fasten the earring support with ISO7380 screw (internal hexagon half-round head) 5*40 to the post. Put on the second part of the earring and secure them with 4*4 locking screws.

When equipped with an earring and fastenings through a stand, secure the earring to the stand using an ISO7380 6*35 screw.

Installation of the cranked tripod. It is installed complete with a plug. Degrease the seating part of the plug and the inside of the pipe. Use only alcohol or acetone for degreasing. To attach the plug, use two-component glue - loctite3450A&B glue, 50 ml. Apply glue, orient the tripod positions, install and place for polymerization.

Installing a horizontal straight tripod. Attach the tripod to the stand with an ISO7380 8*20 screw. Glue the stand cap.

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Installation of fences: installation of staircase posts

Sketch – diagram of fencing.

Anchor installation.

Drill a hole in the concrete at the marked points with a depth and diameter corresponding to the selected type of anchor.

Clean with a wire brush and blow through the hole with a pump. Repeat the operation twice.

Fill the hole approximately 2/3 full with injection mixture. The feed must be thoroughly mixed and uniform in color. It must be remembered that the first 10 cm will come out of the spout unmixed. Follow the fastener manufacturer's advice.

Mount the anchor with a rotating motion to the required depth.

Mount the rack mounting flange, first checking the strength of the connection between the pin and the flange ring. The flange must be tightly screwed together. Attach the rack mounting flange to the base by tightening the thread with an M14 nut. Tightening torque – 55n*m.

Place the racks “dry”. Mark the cutting height of the posts with a marker. In most cases, the racks are trimmed from below. Trim to the height of the post. Make sure that the height of the posts when assembled with the handrail corresponds to the required height. For this, use either a cutting machine or a band saw with a low belt speed. When working with a cutting machine, use 1 mm thick wheels. Remove tarnish (change in iron color due to temperature exposure) and remove burrs sandpaper and a file. When using a cutting machine, special attention must be paid to the evenness of the cutting line. To form a straight cut, wrap a strip of duct tape around the pipe and draw a radial line. It needs to be cut.

Installation of racks. It is necessary to degrease the bonded surfaces of the stand and flange. Apply glue. Rotate the stand onto the flange. Orient the stand relative to the flight of stairs. After turning into a dough-like mass, carefully remove excess glue. At this stage, it is convenient to cut off the glue with the blade of a “master” knife. You can use other techniques for working with glue. For example, when the glue is not simply removed with a solvent, but rubbed with a rag soaked in solvent into the connecting seam in order to mask a very uneven cut. When working with glue, follow the manufacturer's advice.

We recommend connecting the end posts of flights of stairs together with a 12 mm pipe and M6 thread. To do this, drill through holes in the racks with a diameter of slightly more than 6 mm. Cut the pipes to a size that is equal to the distance between the posts. After inserting the thread through the M12 pipe and the posts, tighten it on both sides with M6 cap nuts. Make two connection lines.

Next, you need to make sure that the racks are firmly in place. They do not wobble and have no backlash. The stand must be resilient to the load. If it is possible to swing the stand, this means that a certain operation was carried out with an error. Insufficient strength of the anchor (“the anchor is pulled out”), the surface (the tile is cracking), fastening to the stand flange (the adhesive connection is not made correctly). The assembly joint can be disassembled by heating up to 120°C using construction hair dryer. Try not to overheat the parts.

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Installation of stair railing handrails on an articulated stand

Scheme for measuring stair railings.

Attach the pipe to the tripods. Indicate the point where the pipe ends and where the tripod is attached to the pipe using a marker. It is not recommended to extend the handrail post beyond 100 mm.

With the pipe laid on a stable, horizontal surface, cut the pipe and drill holes at the 9.2mm mounting points. Mount a threaded rivet for mounting threaded rivets (or for cutting a 5.2 mm M6 thread).

Temporarily remove the top of the tripod and secure it to the handrail with a DIN 912 screw (internal hexagon, cylindrical head) 6*20.

Attach a handrail with tripods to the rack.

The handrail pipe for stainless steel fences is supplied in 6 linear units. m. However, to save pipes and reduce the price of railings, it is recommended to splice them. To splice the corners of the turn and the handrail, use the handrail connector.

You can use glue to mask an unsuccessful cut. Apply glue to the seam. Let it set a little and, rubbing with a rag soaked in solvent, ensure that the seam is evenly filled with glue.

Place a turn or cap at the end of the handrail. Adhesive connection of the plug to the pipe.

Once the staircase steps are ready, the stair railings can be installed. If you didn’t have any problems installing the steps, then you will probably have questions when attaching the balustrade.

After all, installing it yourself is much more difficult:

here you need to be especially precise;
provide a sufficient number of attachment points;
at the same time make everything invisible to the eye.

All parts must be pre-prepared: sanded, uneven areas filled with putty, and the surface varnished. All wall finishing work must already be completed, and if you plan to install a video camera on the staircase, a chandelier or other electrics, this must be done in advance.

Sanding can be done by hand or with a belt sander. Carved curved elements will need to be processed manually with sandpaper. Defects are repaired with a special wood putty. After it dries, you need to sand this area again.

Required Tools

To work you will need the following tools and materials:

Drill;
Drill guide;
Milling machine;
Hand grinder;
Emery;
Wood putty;
Paintwork;
Studs and spare parts bolts;
Square and pencil;
Next, you need to make even holes for fastenings in the balusters and posts, parallel to the direction of the parts. To make them even, you can gather homemade machine from a drill attached to a table. To center the drill, screw a block of oak or beech to the table and make a hole in it for the drill.
Then screw on the baluster guide. Now you can make a hole in the balusters exactly along their axis.

Drilling holes

To attach the handrails you need to cut out the bottom part milling machine grooves in the shape of an inverted letter “D”, as shown in the photo below. According to the size of this groove, you will need to cut a rail, which will then be screwed to the balusters. Another strip should be the size of the top part of the groove; it is better to make it from a beautiful material, as it will be visible.

To install posts and balusters, we screw special pins with a diameter of 8 mm (for posts it is better to use 10 mm) and a length of 10 cm into their lower part.

Note!
This fastening method is only suitable for hard wood.
To screw them in comfortably and not damage the threads, screw several nuts onto them, which you remove after screwing them in.

Then a 7 mm hole is made in the tread of the bottom step of the stairs and a pole is screwed into it. After this, the post is removed from the pin, and it remains in the step.
We fix the step to the floor on anchor bolt, which will then disappear into a column.

We make markings for the top post on the last step. You need to screw in the self-tapping screw exactly in the center and pull the thread between it and the pin. To ensure that all the supports stand in one row, use a square to mark a line on each step under the stretched thread.
We mark the center for the baluster on each step and drill a small thin recess. Next, we put a drill guide on the drill and use a 5 mm drill to make holes for installing balusters.

We screw the studs into the balusters and then screw them to the steps. Use a square to control the evenness and alignment of the installation. Before screwing them in, it is advisable to coat the installation surface on the tread with silicone in order to displace air and hold the parts together more tightly. Thus, we collect the entire march.

If the installation of staircase balusters is not on the steps, and you want to make the same distance between them, 15 cm will be enough for thin parts, about 20 cm for thicker parts. If you have small children, then their fastening should be done so that the child couldn't fall between them. The height of the columns is chosen at your discretion, depending on your height. They are usually sold in 50 or 60 cm lengths.

Handrail attachment

We cut the outer balusters at the required angle. We set them strictly vertically in level and glue an even strip onto the tape, which is needed to mark the rest. We make marks along the bottom line of the slats to cut all the balusters.
We cut them and screw the cut out rail to it.

We place the handrail on the rail and trim its edges at the desired angle for a tight fit with the posts. After this, we screw the handrail to the rail using self-tapping screws from below.

Advice!
To avoid chipping the ends of the pieces when cutting with a miter saw, wrap them with tape.

Attaching the handrail to the pole

One of the options for fastening handrails to the outer posts is to use spare bolts special for mounting stair railings, the price of which is 100-300 rubles per piece. Sometimes you can’t do without them, especially if you need to connect the railing to a turn, as the video in this article shows.

Another option, more complex, that we will use is fastening with Euro screws.

For this feather drill Several recesses are made in the handrail from the bottom side. To avoid accidentally drilling through holes, place a metal sheet underneath.

Use a chisel to remove the excess walls to create a rectangular recess with rounded corners. It should fit our Euro screw and hexagon.

The edge of the handrail is trimmed and a stencil is made for drilling the hole. Use it to mark the drilling point at the end of the handrail and thin drill make a hole from the end to our recess. Then you need to widen it with a thicker drill.
Attach the handrail to the post and trace its outline. Then apply the stencil and mark the position of the hole.
We drill a hole, screw a Euro screw into it and then immediately unscrew it.
We place the handrail on the rail and tighten it from below through the Euro hole made with a screw to the post.

The lower posts can simply be screwed onto self-tapping screws or Euro screws at an angle.

Balustrade

After this, a partition can be installed on the landing.

To do this, we screw in the post and additionally fix it to the wall with an anchor.
We cut out and lay a lining between the pillars so that it is not directly to the floor and it is more beautiful.
Intermediate balusters are screwed to this rail from the wrong side using Euro screws. The outer ones need to be attached to the floor through the lining with anchor bolts.
Then the support rail is screwed on, and as described above, the handrail is screwed onto the screws from below.

The final touch

All that remains is to hide the traces of fastening. To do this, you need to cover the bottom groove with a decorative cover. We cut it to size and “sit” it on the glue to the handrail.

Until the glue dries, you can place the slats on the tape. If traces of the tape remain later, they can be wiped off with acetone, alcohol or white spirit.

Now let's decide how to arrange the space under the stairs. We decided to do this using clapboard cladding coated with oak colored impregnation and protective varnish. So that the space under the stairs is not empty, we make a door there, it will turn out to be a small pantry.

The lining is fastened to a frame made of 3*4 cm wooden blocks, which in turn are fixed to metal profiles.

We make the final mess: cover the joints with a decorative corner to match the color of the wood. We decorate the joint with the wall with a strip of the same color.

Conclusion

These instructions will allow you to make a fairly strong, solid fence that will not wobble when walking. A special installation for testing stairs can help you make sure of this. And the video in this article will answer the remaining questions, watch it!

A mandatory element of houses and cottages that have a second floor is a staircase. Adherents of environmentally friendly materials prefer to build wooden structures in their premises. Installing balusters on a wooden staircase with your own hands requires preparation and careful execution of all stages of the work. This article describes several methods for installing additional protection elements for stairs.

Wooden staircase

To ensure the safety of movement on wooden stairs, construction standards require the installation of balusters and handrails. Balusters are rack-mounted fences that rest on steps or come to the same level at the top, where they are connected by railings.

There are several types of racks:

Flat.
Round or square without decorative elements.
Figured, cut on machines according to a template.
Carved. They are the most complex, since their central part is made of decorative cutting. Often such wooden balusters are produced as handmade products.

Each post has a rectangular base that rests on the stairs. It is often longer than the height of the fence requires, but thanks to this you can adjust the length of each element. If the balusters rest on, their base is cut at the angle at which the flight of stairs is located.

The central part is often made taking into account decorative design. This is the most beautiful part as it is decorated with simple or sculptured carved patterns.

Top part wooden baluster provides a support for railings. Since the railing is angled, the support is cut at the same angle as the entire staircase structure.

Arrangement of a flight of stairs

Material for making stands

There is a wide variety of materials from which balusters are made:

Concrete and gypsum. Such racks are used when decorating external stairs, as well as cornices. They are cast in molds using a reinforcement frame, and after removal they can be additionally polished and treated with special compounds.
Stone. They are the most durable. Artificial stone is made by casting; natural balusters are carved from stone.
Metal balusters. They are made by forging, welding or casting. There are direct and volumetric models. Installation of metal balusters will be in harmony with wooden flights of stairs if the color scheme is chosen correctly.
Polyurethane. Their price is lower than other options. They are lightweight, and their reliability is guaranteed by the presence of a metal rod.
Wooden balusters. Structures of both flat and volumetric shapes are made from natural wood.

Requirements for installing balusters and handrails

To ensure that using the stairs is not fraught with difficulties and those passing along them are not in danger, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements:

The height of the fence should be about one meter (or 90 cm). This is enough to ensure safe movement around the structure. Thanks to this height, it will be convenient to lean on the railing when going up the steps.
If flight of stairs adjacent to the wall, for ease of movement it is necessary to install railings at a distance of 5-7 cm from the wall surface.
The racks should be 10-20 cm apart from each other. If there are kids in the house, optimal value will be 10 cm. If, by placing one baluster per step, it is not possible to achieve the required distance, you need to install two racks.
The railings must withstand a lateral load of 100-120 kg.
If not only adults, but also children live in the house, you can install another railing in the middle of the fence, which will be easy for children to lean on.
The balusters should be fastened in two places: at the bottom to the steps and at the top to the handrails.
Handrails should be smooth. The possibility of introducing a splinter into a wooden product must be excluded.

Installation of balusters

Balusters in a flight of stairs

A row of balusters is located on one or two edges of the flight of stairs as protection, ensuring safety of movement along the steps. The racks can rest on steps, or they can rest on.

One or two balusters can be installed on the steps. This way the balusters will rest on a horizontal surface. The posts will not need to be cut at an angle, so the preparation process for installation will take less time. However, balusters installed on steps reduce the width of the staircase.

Balusters installed on steps

If you install wooden racks on, you can save the useful width of the steps, but in this case, each baluster will need to be trimmed both at the top and bottom. Both angles of inclination will be equal, since they correspond to the inclination of the flight of stairs. This method is used when the thickness is sufficient.

Installation of racks on studs

There is another method of installation using studs using nuts glued into or steps. Such studs are screwed into the rack in the same way as was written earlier. However, before installing the stand on the step, not only is a hole made for the stud, but the upper part is also expanded to the diameter of the nut. Depending on the depth of expansion, one or two nuts are recessed. They are placed flush with the wood and seated with glue. When it is completely dry and the nuts are securely seated in the step, the hole is filled with glue again and the pin is screwed into the baluster.

If the thickness of the step is small, you can drill a through hole in it and screw in a baluster with a pin, and screw a nut with a large washer on the back side.

Sometimes balusters for a flight of stairs are sold with pins already glued in, so the installation process is significantly speeded up.

On the dowels

Since the main load is carried out on the pedestals, dowels can be used to fasten the balusters. This method is the most commonly used for wood structures.

Dowels are small cylindrical wooden spikes. They can be purchased in stores, or you can make them yourself. The price of such products is low, so they are very affordable. To complete all work, it is necessary to prepare dowels and wood glue. The length of the dowels is about 10-12 cm, and the diameter is 0.8-1.2 cm.

Installing racks on steps involves the following sequence of actions:

Preparing all balusters. To do this, a hole is drilled from the bottom in the center of each step with a depth equal to half the length of the dowels and a diameter 0.5 mm larger than the fasteners.
The holes in the racks are filled with glue and dowels are inserted into them. Excess glue is removed immediately. It takes about 2-3 hours to dry, so during this time you can start marking the steps themselves.
When making markings, you should remember that all points for installing balusters must be on the same line. Otherwise, problems will arise when installing the railings. The distance from the edge of the flight of stairs to the place where the rack is attached should be sufficient to fit it on the step. However, it is worth remembering that making a large indentation significantly reduces effective area stairs.
In the places where the points are set on the steps, holes are drilled equal to half the length of the dowels and with a diameter 0.5 mm larger.
Glue is poured into these holes. It also lubricates the end of the rack. It is then inserted into the hole. To prevent the baluster from tilting while the glue dries, it is fixed and aligned to the building level. It also takes 2-3 hours for the glue to dry.

Installation of balusters on dowels

If the installation of racks is carried out on, the first stage of work should be trimming all balusters at the angle of the flight of stairs. To check the correctness of the cut, you need to place the stand against the bowstring and make sure that it is vertical and strictly level.

When installing the racks, it is possible to place them at a greater or lesser distance than the width of the steps. When drilling holes in the balusters and bowstrings themselves, it is worth remembering that they should not be made perpendicular to the cut, but strictly vertically. You also need to correctly calculate the depth of the holes.

After all the balusters are securely in place in the flight of stairs, you can begin preparing them for the installation of railings.

For self-tapping screws

The most in a simple way fastening is the use of self-tapping screws. This method can be done even by people who have no carpentry skills. In addition, there is no need to wait for the wood glue to dry before proceeding to the next stages of work. To install balusters, long self-tapping screws are used - 8-10 cm. It is desirable that they are made of stainless steel.

Installation of racks with self-tapping screws

Installation of balusters is carried out in the following way:

At the point where the self-tapping screw is screwed in, a slightly smaller hole is drilled in the baluster. This is necessary in order to avoid cracking of the wood at the installation site and thereby avoid weakening the strength of the fasteners.
In order for the self-tapping screw, driven into the material at an angle, to be completely recessed in the wood, a small recess of the diameter of the head and a small depth is made in place of the head.
Then self-tapping screws are screwed into all balusters at an angle of 45°. At first, they are not driven in completely, but only so that their tip barely protrudes outward at the bottom of the rack.
In order for all the balusters to be placed in one row, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, you can take a fishing line or a thin cord and stretch it along the flight of stairs.
Then comes the installation of balusters. To do this, each rack is placed in its place and the self-tapping screw is screwed in completely, firmly fixing it to the step. The head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood. It is very important at this moment to ensure that all balusters are installed level.
Choppers selected by color are inserted into the recesses formed in place of the screwed screws. Then they are sanded flush with the surface of the baluster and varnished along with the entire structure. Another option for filling the hole is to use wood putty or wax.
After placing all the balusters on the same line and level, they begin to install the railings.

Connection of balusters and railings

After installing all the racks, the final stage of working with a wooden staircase is installing a handrail or railing. These items can be installed in the following ways:

Dowels.
Threaded rods.
Self-tapping screws.

Balusters prepared for installation of railings

Dowels

The use of dowels is due to the fact that the main load is not placed on the railing; it falls on the supporting posts. To do this, a hole for dowels is drilled in each rack. The same work is done on the railings. So that later it can be securely fastened, holes are made according to well-done markings. The dowels are inserted into the holes filled with glue, after which the handrails are put on them. Then the entire structure should be left for several hours until the glue dries completely.

Threaded rods

When attaching the handrail in this way, it is necessary to accurately determine the center of the baluster and the center of the railing. First, holes are made for the studs in the racks. For additional secure fastening, glue is poured into the holes and then the fasteners are screwed into the racks.

After the glue has completely dried, you need to attach the railing to the posts so that the stud attachment points appear on the back of the railing. This way you can clearly identify the places where holes need to be made. Before attaching the railings to the posts, you need to coat all the holes with glue.

Self-tapping screws

Installation of handrails with self-tapping screws

When installing railings with self-tapping screws, it is very important to choose the correct fastening length. If you use excessively long self-tapping screws, when fully tightened, the tips may protrude onto the outer surface of the railing, which is a very bad indicator.

Making markings for cutting the top of the racks

Installation of a wooden balustrade

A balustrade is a fencing for stairs, balconies, terraces, and various elevations. It consists of figured columns, which in their upper part are connected by a handrail or railing. On stairs, such fences are located between floors, at the beginning or at the end of a flight of stairs. If we talk about balconies and terraces, then in such places this structure, starting from the cabinets and ending with all the racks, is located on the same line. This greatly simplifies the installation process, since there is no need to cut the top of the balusters at an angle.

The height of the balustrade, like the railing, should be about 90cm, the distance between the posts 10-20cm.

Balustrade

It is also important to determine the location of all the pedestals (support pillars) in the flight of stairs. They are approximately twice as thick as the posts (balusters). They can be mounted on studs or dowels. The length of the fastening element should be about 10 cm.

If the pillars rest not on a wooden surface, but on concrete, then it is necessary to make embedded parts into which a bolt-screw is subsequently welded. In order to place a cabinet on this bolt-screw, a hole of the appropriate diameter and length is drilled in it and then the pole is simply screwed onto the fastener.

If the floor surface is made of plank material, fastening the pillars is carried out in the same way as installing balusters on the wooden surface of steps. Often in wooden structures, the bottom post is placed on the last step and pressed against the riser.

Upon completion of the installation of the cabinets, you need to clearly mark the location of the racks. They should all be on the same line. You also need to correctly determine the cutting line of the railings so that they fit correctly with the cabinets.

One way to fit the handrail onto all the balusters is to make a groove along the entire length of the handrail to a depth of about 8 mm. The width of the sample corresponds to the width of the racks. This can be done using a machine.

To securely install the railings, you can fasten a thin strip on top of all the posts using self-tapping screws. Railings are laid on top of it and also fixed with self-tapping screws. It is worth remembering that their length should not be long so that they do not protrude through the railing. Additionally, the handrails must be secured to the support posts. Using glue it will be possible to further strengthen the entire structure.

Having completed all the work on installing a wooden balustrade, you can secure your stay at height and give a solid appearance to your staircase, terrace or balcony.

Definition
Types of fencing
Calculation of fences
Height
Width
Distances

Stair railings ensure safety of movement along the stairs when ascending and descending. Railings and balusters complete the design of the march and emphasize the style. Railings and fences can be ordered at finished form or make them yourself.

Definition

Railings are vertical structures installed along the edge of a flight of stairs. They ensure the safety of people when ascending and descending. The railing consists of several elements:

Handrail is the upper part on which a person’s hand rests when moving.
Balusters are vertical posts that support the handrail. The outermost stand is a cabinet. Handrails are attached to it at the bottom and top of the flight.
Horizontal slats (string) - fencing under the handrails - are located parallel to the movement of the march. Replace balusters.
Fastening system – elements for fixing the fence.

Basic functions of railings and balusters

Fences must be installed on flights of stairs longer than 4 steps. There may be no railings on the stairs on the wall side, but there must be railings on the free side.. The elements are securely fastened so that the structure can perform its main functions:

Support. Stair lifts have different angles of rise. People of varying physical fitness overcome these obstacles. Stair railings should help people get up of different ages, weight and physical ability to distribute the load on the legs when ascending and descending.
Safety. Properly designed ladders not only provide stability for the climber, but also prevent falls in the event of loss of balance.
Decor. Stair railings decorate the flight and emphasize the style. When choosing the design of wooden and metal handrails, it is important to combine them with the surrounding space.

Types of fencing

Stair railings can be made of different materials and have different shapes, so these structures are classified according to several criteria.

Fences can be:

metal;
wooden;
polymer;
glass;
concrete;
combined.

Metal railings and fencing posts are made from aluminum or forged steel. The former are distinguished by impeccable shine and smoothness, the latter have decorative properties, since they are made according to individual sketches.

Wooden railings are most often found in private homes: they are warm to the touch, smooth, fit into any interior, and are affordable.

Polymer fences are made of hard plastics that are installed on special fasteners. Compared to other materials, polymer is the cheapest.

Glass fencing is installed in public buildings: in shopping and office centers. They are made from tempered glass.

Concrete barriers are suitable for entrance buildings and on main staircases. Elements are cast from concrete in a factory, sometimes right on the construction site.

Combined fencing combines several materials. The most common option is to install wooden railings on forged or aluminum balusters.

Handrails also differ in the installation method:

A separate profile (tube, shaped profile, rectangular) is a product that is attached to the fence structure with special parts.
Balusters and railings are a classic option for arranging stair railings. They are attached to each other and fixed on the flight of stairs.
Modular ones consist of ready-made blocks (baluster or fence + handrail + fasteners). They are assembled in accordance with the march plan on the spot.

By location, metal, plastic and wooden railings can be:

external, they are installed on the street. The main requirement for materials for manufacturing is resistance to weather conditions;
Internal fences in premises can be made of any materials.

Calculation of fences

To make reliable railings, they must be calculated correctly

Height

The height of the wooden handrail is the main value that must be determined to ensure safety. According to regulatory construction documents, the height of the railing should be:

0.9 meters for public buildings and residential buildings;
in areas where a fall from a height of more than 5 meters is possible, it is necessary to fasten fences with a height of 110 cm;
stair railings in a house or building with special requirements can be located at a height of 0.7 meters;
in children's institutions, handrails are installed at a height of 0.5 meters.

For institutions where there is a flow of children (schools, kindergartens), double fences of 0.9 and 0.5 meters are usually installed parallel to each other at a distance of up to 10 cm. This ensures comfortable movement for children and adults.

The height of the railings in a private house may not correspond to the norm, but it is allowed individual definition this parameter. To calculate your ideal height, extend your arm forward as you descend a flight of stairs. Then measure the distance from your palm to the step. This is the ideal height for you.

Width

The width of the railing should be such that you can grab the handrail. According to the standard, they are produced in widths from 30 to 70 mm; larger sizes are also used for main staircases.

How to determine the width of the handrails that is comfortable for you: in case of a possible fall, the handrail should be comfortable to grab onto without the risk of injury.

Distances

The reliability and strength of the structure largely depend on the distance between the balusters.

The number of balusters and their parameters are determined by the size and weight of the handrail. When using flexible or heavy railings, balusters should be installed on the stairs so that the profile does not sag or excessive loading of the supports occurs. If spans of more than 15 cm are formed, it is necessary to install a protective string parallel to the railings.
Balusters in classic version on a wooden staircase they are installed at each step, sometimes several at once.

For children's institutions, it is necessary to install supports on each step every 15-20 cm to prevent children from falling.

Manufacturing of wooden fences

For a dacha or private home, you can design and manufacture fencing yourself. This will allow you to get custom railings that match the home owner’s design. The cost of a homemade product is significantly lower than that of a purchased product.

Step-by-step plan for making a structure with your own hands.

Step 1. Drawing up a diagram

If the house already has a finished staircase without a fence, the design should be done based on its plan. If construction is just beginning, and you already have an interesting idea for railings, then the flight of stairs can be adjusted to these wishes.

A plan is created that takes into account:

height of the staircase railing;
type and pitch of balusters;
railing width

Step 2. Select wood for making components

For the production of balusters and handrail profiles, different tree species are used:

The most durable wood is beech, ash and oak. It has a pleasant structure and an expressive cut.
Coniferous wood - spruce, pine, larch - is common and inexpensive.

It is undesirable to use soft deciduous wood to create fences - the products shrink greatly and become deformed when drying, becoming covered with cracks.

The normal moisture content of wood that can be used for making railings and balusters is 12–18%.

Step 3. How to make balusters

The method is determined by their shape.

They can be:

flat;
voluminous.

To make flat balusters you will need processed boards. Hand saws and with a carving tool a pattern is made on them. There are many examples, some ideas can be gleaned from the photographs presented.

To make a three-dimensional baluster you will need a lathe. On rotating equipment, the desired pattern is cut out using various chisels and knives. A milling machine will help you achieve a deeper, asymmetrical design that cannot be done on a lathe.

Step 4. Making handrails

To make a handrail, you will need a rectangular or round piece of different lengths:

corresponding to the span, if its length is small.
the span length can be divided into 2-3 parts for ease of manufacture and installation of the fence.

For spiral staircase the workpiece must be rounded by turning or the length divided into many elements in order to then connect them using the adhesive method. Only the end of the handrail can be rounded.

Processing of workpieces:

We grind square beams, round and smooth the corners. The width of the railing should be convenient for gripping with a brush, the average is 6 cm. The rectangular blank can be given a relief: carve grooves along the beam to make it easier to grip, decorate them with small details, but everything should be smooth, without sharp corners and burrs.
To obtain a round handrail, we grind the blank square section with cut edges lathe. You can add a slight relief, but it should be smooth.

There is another way to make handrails - gluing boards, if not suitable material. To do this, take boards of the same length, glue them together and, after the glue has completely dried, process the resulting semi-finished product using the methods listed above.

Step 5. Attaching the balusters to the steps

Installation of balusters on a wooden staircase can be done in two ways:

Self-tapping screws and bolts.
Glue method.

We will not consider the second option due to its dubious effectiveness; masters use it in special cases. You will definitely need glue if the railing was made from separate fragments that need to be joined.

Before proceeding with installation, markings are made on the steps where the balusters will go. The master tells more about this process in the video:

To attach the balusters to the handrails, you will need screws or self-tapping screws 80 mm long, 10 mm in diameter and washers.

For fastening you need:

Drill a hole for the screw in the step according to the markings.
Prepare the same hole in the baluster.
Place a washer on the screw and drive it from the bottom of the step.
Attach and secure the stand.

The upper and lower end posts are attached in the same way with a screw, but welded to the embedded part on the landing.

When the installation of the balusters is completed, the guide is attached to them with clamps at the level of the handrail. Appropriate marks are made on the posts with a pencil along which the cut will be made.

To avoid damaging the secured wood, wooden pads should be installed under the clamps.

Cuts according to marks can be made on a miter saw; other tools will not give an even cut at the desired angle.

This process can be clearly seen in the video:

After installing the balusters, we prepare the handrail. Using the previously installed guide, we measure the angle of contact between the handrail and the outer post, and cut it off on the prepared product. Then we make a groove for the mounting plate. We take its width as the diameter of the ends of the balusters, and its height as 5–10 mm. We attach the plank to the balusters fixed with clamps and a beam using self-tapping screws, recessing the head into the material of the plank.

Using a jigsaw, we cut out a recess in the handrail for the bar. It will have a depth of 5–10 mm and a width equal to the width of the slats attached to the balusters. How to do this, look at the video:

All that remains is to fix the handrail on the rail. To do this, we launch the fastening elements from the bottom of the rail, attracting the prepared product with a little force. Stair railing ready! We invite you to watch a short video summary.