Even the highest quality and most beautiful material can be ruined by poor editing - this is the bitter truth of life. Although not everyone wants to pay almost the same price as for a replacement purchase to a construction team: is it really possible to install parquet board so complicated? Not at all - the main thing is to know important nuances and do everything step by step. And how exactly – we’ll figure it out now.
If after watching you still have questions, read on.
Laying technology: step by step
Let's say right away: laying parquet boards is not laying parquet or laying laminate. There really are some subtleties and nuances here.
Stage I. We purchase quality material
Today, more than a hundred types of wood are used to make parquet boards, and the initial quality is completely different. Therefore, we will give you valuable advice: purchase parquet boards only from those companies that themselves carry out such repair work. They will not order material from manufacturers that then does not fit together and creates a lot of problems. Such is the subtlety. As for the type of parquet board, the most popular today is three-layer. From the name you already guessed that it really has three layers: top, also called front, middle and bottom:
- The top working layer has a thickness from 1 mm to 6 mm (the thicker one will always withstand more grinding than the thinner one). This layer must be coated with varnish or special oil.
- The middle one usually consists of short plates of coniferous wood, or less often - of special moisture-resistant plywood. It is in the middle layer that all the connecting elements for adhesion of parquet boards are usually located.
- The bottom layer is already made of pine or spruce plywood 2 mm thick. The main task of the bottom layer is to prevent the parquet board from bending or deforming.
If you are going to lay a parquet board so that it resembles a massive one, then take a material with a solid face layer. The planks of such a parquet board can be glued in the form of “herringbones”, “braid”, “squares” or “deck”. But the most durable is considered to be the locking connection of the Swedish parquet board - the company Khars. The manufacturer claims that such a connection can withstand up to one and a half tons of tearing.
Stage II. Preparing the base for installation
The most important thing in this matter is to properly prepare the base for the board. Thus, according to unverified data, up to 90% of subsequent problems with the appearance of laid parquet are caused by the quality of the subfloor, and not by defects in the material itself. So, what is still permissible:
- 1-3 mm difference per linear meter
- humidity up to 2-3%. To check this value, use a modern moisture meter.
If the base is clearly not level and even has bulges, use special leveling compounds (only based on dry mixtures). Carefully inspect the old screed and work on peeling areas, defects and dirt. If the humidity value turns out to be more than permissible, then lay it on the floor with an overlap. vapor barrier film, then sealing the joints with construction tape, or apply a special primer.
Experts recommend laying parquet boards at a humidity of 40-60% and a temperature of 20-25°C. Note that parquet boards behave more stable compared to solid wood: less responsive to changes in temperature and humidity, more resistant to static and dynamic loads.
Stage III. We put a special backing
To lay parquet boards in this way, you definitely need a backing that will separate the boards unprotected by glue from the base. It will immediately perform several important functions:
- It will even out small unevenness and defects in the base.
- Will serve as additional waterproofing.
- It will make the parquet floor even warmer.
- It will become a useful shock-absorbing layer, valuable while walking.
And finally, the underlay performs another valuable function that is rarely mentioned: it prevents the parquet board from sliding along the base in case of temperature changes. After all, screed or plaster has its own expansion temperature, and it differs significantly from the same parameter for the coating. This is the danger of not having a backing on the screed: literally a year after such movements invisible to the eye, accumulated cement or gypsum dust begins to seep through the cracks.
As a substrate you can use foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, sheet cork or felt cardboard. This is made from materials that have been known for a long time. But today professional ones are already gaining popularity. Here is a master class on installation on just such a base:
Parquet boards are also often laid on. After all, this natural and environmentally friendly material also has excellent noise insulation. And the technology for gluing such a substrate is extremely simple - just like with wallpaper: polyurethane glue is applied to a clean, dust-free surface and the cork is rolled with a roller. After this, you can immediately lay the boards. However, during such work, do not overdo it with glue - otherwise the cork will warp and swell with bubbles.
Stage IV. Getting ready for installation
When laying a parquet board on an old wooden floor, be sure to measure its humidity - this material is hygroscopic. You can direct the parquet boards in any way you like, but more often they are oriented along the length of the room for the sake of the organicity of the entire interior design. Although designers themselves often use floor texture to visually expand or lengthen the space. If the room is perfectly square, lay it in the direction of the light. You can even do it diagonally - however, there will be a lot of waste later.
Advice: if in a box with parquet boards you find specimens with defects or uneven coloring, leave them for trimming.
Stage V. Learning to connect boards
Different manufacturers produce their own parquet boards and give preference to a certain type of fastening:
- By insertion method;
- Lock connection, also called “click”;
- Using fixing brackets or tightening straps.
The most convenient, of course, is a locking connection. The grooves and insert ridges are joined in this case without any other means - you just need to insert the ridge of the board at an angle into the groove of the other, and smoothly lower the first board to a horizontal position. After that, a couple of light blows are enough, and that's it. 
Here are the main advantages of this method:
- Quick installation;
- There is no need for additional equipment or facilities;
- Wood has room for thermal expansion.
If in some place in the room you cannot lift the board for joining, then simply use a hammer with a block. Yes, this will require considerable precision and accuracy. Tip: when joining the covering to the door frame, start laying with the board placed under the jamb.
The insertion method, of course, is inferior to the previous one: with this installation you constantly have to use a block and a hammer, and replacing damaged boards in the future will take a lot of time. But it is easier to place such boards near heating systems and door frames, and the grooves and insert ridges are less likely to be defective.
But laying parquet boards using staples or a belt fastening system is more used for parquet boards that have a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. The boards themselves still need to be glued together, and it will be difficult to disassemble the floor in the future.
Stage VI. Laying parquet boards
So, parquet boards are laid today mainly in two ways: glue and floating. Glue The adhesive method involves fixing the boards to the base by gluing. So they put it on cement-sand or concrete floor, onto gypsum screed and leveling compound. If you choose this method, be sure to pay attention to the recommendation of the board manufacturer himself - what requirements he puts forward. All this can be found in the attached instructions. Here's how to lay parquet boards using the glue method:
- Step 1. Prepare the base: check for evenness, completely remove dust and treat with a synthetic primer (water-based is undesirable). In total, you should need a little more than a kilogram per square meter (it all depends on the screed and the quality of the primer itself).
- Step 2. Lay out the parquet boards from the first two boxes in the order in which you will install them. Apply glue.
- Step 3. Place the first board. It must be longer than it is wide. We leave an expansion gap of 6-12 mm between the wall and the floor.
- Step 4. We tap the second board to the first - through a special block. The boards need to be glued within ten minutes.
- Step 5. When you cut the last board, immediately use the remaining part to start the next row.
- Step 6. Insert small wedges or spacers into the expansion gap between the wall and the floor (you can see them in the photo).
- Step 7. After gluing a few rows, carefully check to see if there are any gaps.
- Step 8. When all the work is completed, close the seams acrylic sealant or cork chips. As an option, you can also install a special metal threshold.
Tip: for convenience, use a square - only with it you can draw really straight lines.
The so-called “floating” method of laying parquet boards has many advantages. The most important thing is that important gaps remain for ventilation and invisible changes in the shape of the board when the temperature changes. As evidence: in winter when good heating you may notice small gaps between the boards - but in summer they are not visible. Moreover, the wider the board itself, the more noticeable. These are important processes! And, if you chose a parquet board with a high-quality lock, it will last much longer than a regular glued one. You can see the process in more detail in this photo instruction: 
A “floating” parquet floor is laid in two ways: using the same glue and “locking”. In the first method, the boards are glued not to the base, but to each other, and in the second method, they are connected without glue. Lock connections also have subtypes: “turn and click” or “blow and click”. Let's say the speed of such assembly is really impressive - just a couple of hours.
You can install everything yourself:
- Step 1. Start from the left corner of the room with the so-called “catch side” facing the wall.
- Step 2. Take the board with both hands and, holding it at an angle, place it on the edge of the board of the first row. The edge board that will be adjacent to the walls should not have grooves - cut them off with a plane.
- Step 3. Start the second row with the remainder of the first row. But, if it turns out to be less than 30 cm, cut the new board in half.
- Step 4. When you lay the parquet board at the threshold, constantly check whether the doors open as easily as before.
If necessary, simply trim the bottom. In addition, there should always be at least a centimeter of distance between the door threshold and the wall. Another important thing is to tightly connect the boards together, use a wooden or rubber hammer, only tapping it lightly. Don't use the regular one - you'll damage the floor.
For fairly large areas, this installation method is not very suitable - the integrity of the entire coating is compromised. The floor will creak and even bend. Therefore, in spacious rooms and halls, parquet boards can only be glued. That's all!
Complex installation - warm floors and logs
If you are going to lay a parquet board on a warm floor, first of all, find a material on sale that would be suitable for the future temperature regime. After all, not all species are sufficiently resistant to deformation, especially maple and beech. It is better to give preference to oak or walnut. But keep in mind that the maximum temperature for which any parquet board is designed is 26°C. And to understand whether the parquet board you have chosen is generally suitable for heated floors, look on its packaging for a special “suitable for heated floors” icon and instructions for such installation.
A salesperson or sales manager can help you find and consider all this. If there is nothing like this on the material, don’t take my word for it. If you have the opportunity to choose, then electric is better for such a coating - heating occurs evenly, and the wood expands more quietly. True, the floor level will have to be raised high.
If you still decide to install it, you will be pleased with the ease and speed of installation. You will place the cable on a heat-insulating material (preferably foil), and you can immediately attach a parquet board on top. Convenient to place under a parquet board. Also popular: minimal thickness, perfectly smooth coating and easy installation. But not many people like its radiation. In any case, laying a parquet board on such a base can only be done in a “floating” way - because the heat will cause the wood to slightly change its parameters. Below is the installation process in the photo.
If you are laying parquet boards on beams or joists, be sure to ensure that they are dry and as strong as possible. Miss this moment - over time, the floor will creak unpleasantly and even become deformed. It is also important that there is good ventilation under the joists and that water vapor does not accumulate. In general, these are all difficulties. The best way Laying parquet boards on joists is as follows:
- Step 1. Prepare the logs, check for moisture and integrity.
- Step 2. Lay a layer of durable plywood.
- Step 3. We lay the parquet board: using glue or on a cork, which will help to slightly relieve the static load on the logs themselves (prevention of squeaking).
Less commonly, but this method is also practiced: the parquet board is attached directly to the joists themselves using staples or nails. Then the logs should go in increments of 60 cm, and take the parquet board itself thick enough.
And finally, we’ll tell you about a newer technology for preparing the base for laying boards - this is. Minimum time and costs: special logs on plastic bases are simply used, which not only raise the floor a little, but also allow the necessary communications to be installed underneath it. Thermal insulation is, of course, much better than usual concrete base. Feel free to experiment!
The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often this modern materials, created using the achievements of the chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as “well forgotten old”. A striking example is parquet boards. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but laying parquet boards is simple and does not require highly qualified workers.
Parquet board, what is it
Parquet boards as a type of flooring appeared in the early 40s of the last century. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for expensive parquet that requires skilled craftsmen. These days it is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is absolute environmental safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.
Externally, the parquet board is similar to the usual laminate, but differs from it in its internal structure. If you look at it in section, you can see three layers of planks of different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.
Upper layer
The top (front) layer primarily creates the floor pattern. The lamellas from which it is assembled are selected according to pattern, shade and texture, and boards are selected without defects or damage. Some types of boards are covered with valuable wood veneer. In a sense, this is a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without any special investment.
In addition to its purely decorative function, the surface is resistant to abrasion and insusceptibility to constant pressure. That is why the top ball is made of hardwood, the layer thickness reaches 4 mm or more.
An additional advantage of the material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is polished and impregnated from the factory protective compounds and varnished. All that is required from the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and lay the covering correctly.
Middle layer
The job of the middle layer is to distribute the load evenly. The best material for this is coniferous wood. Longitudinal fibers give the material bending resistance, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.
The middle layer is assembled from planks about 7 mm thick. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the package is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the parquet board will be installed.
bottom layer
All layered cake rests on the substrate. These are one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid along the long side, which provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging under pressure.
Advantages and disadvantages
Can not be ideal material, parquet boards are no exception. When planning to lay this covering, it is worth familiarizing yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.
You need to start with the obvious advantages:
- absolute environmental cleanliness;
- a skillfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
- the board is much cheaper than parquet;
- easy to install, no experience or knowledge required;
- allows for the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
- does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, or varnishing;
- A wide range of textures and colors are on sale.
With good care, the service life of the coating is 20–30 years. This can be considered a disadvantage, because the same parquet will last much longer. True, the obvious advantages outweigh this conditional disadvantage. And besides everything, you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, but for parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.
Preparing the subfloor
Parquet boards are not too picky about the base material. It can be laid with equal success on a leveled screed, on a base made of wood or plywood, moreover, it can be used to renew an old ceramic tile floor. The only condition is that the base must be reliable and necessarily level.
In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to complete a series preparatory work. First, you should visually assess the quality of the floor using a simple building level. Reveal problem areas, take measures to level the surface. High spots are smoothed out, cracks are widened and sealed concrete mortar, they also fill the recesses.
Note! Such “pothole” repairs are only possible if the surface is close to ideal and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new subfloor.
The easiest way is to prepare the base for parquet boards using self-leveling compounds. They are easy to work with; just dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution in an even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.
You can also consider using wood-based sheet material. Multilayer plywood, chipboard or OSB sheets are excellent for this. Using this material, you can create a new floor on joists or patch up an old one that is quite durable, but with a large difference in height.
The concrete floor must be primed and allowed to dry. It is necessary to lay a backing between the base and the board. The best material For these purposes, a traffic jam appears. It will smooth out possible unevenness in the foundation, help conserve heat in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.
Preparing to lay the coating
The technology for laying parquet boards is not particularly complicated; even a novice master can handle this task, but in any case it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before getting down to business, it’s worth preparing the tool. You will need:
- hand or electric saw;
- hammer with rubber striker;
- level and plastic rule;
- spatulas (smooth and serrated);
- tape measure, square, pencil;
- screwdriver;
- bracket for tightening rows.
In addition to the tools, you need to prepare the room itself. It would be a good idea to go over the floor with a vacuum cleaner again. Special attention pay attention to the corners; a stray pebble can ruin the whole job.
Methods for installing parquet boards
Once the tool is assembled and the work front is prepared, you can proceed directly to installation. It’s worth mentioning here that there are three main installation methods:
- floating;
- glue fastening;
- using additional fasteners.
According to the installation method, a distinction is made between the longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving in the direction of the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler; there is not much waste left during the work, but the diagonal method looks more impressive.
Floating installation
The peculiarity of floating installation is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only through reliable locking connections. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:
- easy to install;
- it is easy to correct mistakes made during work;
- it’s easy to replace several damaged boards;
- it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
- the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
- saving on adhesive composition.
As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need to carefully level the subfloor, the limitation on surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. Also, you cannot lay the board in this way in a room where a high load on the floor is expected.
Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work are as follows.
- First, lay the board along the longest wall of the room, from left to right. The part of the castle that will face the wall is cut off from the board. A complete row is assembled, the end board is cut to fit.
- The coating should retreat from the walls by 10–15 mm; to achieve this, spacer wedges are used. Many people recommend completely assembling three rows before installing them, then placing wedges and using a bracket to pull the finished canvas, setting it in the desired position. The boards of each subsequent row are laid with a shift, selecting a pattern if necessary.
- The following rows are assembled sequentially; if necessary, the canvas is tapped with light blows of a rubber hammer. The hardest part to lay is the outermost row. Each board must be precisely adjusted in width, and it is important not to forget to leave a gap along the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.
Once the covering is completely laid, the wedges are removed, baseboards and door thresholds are installed. It is advisable to turn on the floor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board to sit in place.
Glue mounting
The essence this method reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more labor-intensive, but it also has a number of significant advantages:
- there are no restrictions on the area and purpose of the room;
- Can be used in conjunction with water heated floors.
But this is a labor-intensive installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made and replace the damaged area. The floor will cost more due to the need to purchase glue. You will have to wait until the glue hardens before you start using it.
It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific board chosen. In addition, you need to work extremely carefully to prevent glue from getting on the front side of the coating.
As in the first case, installation is carried out along the longest wall. Before applying glue, the board is laid out and the outermost one is cut off to create a full row.
A layer of glue 80–100 mm wider than the width of the board is applied to the prepared surface. The glue is evenly distributed over the area using a notched trowel.
Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. When laying the boards, they must be joined immediately using locking joints. Each laid plank is pressed for better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.
The operation is repeated. Apply glue and lay the next row with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you need to get rid of it immediately, move the row using wooden block and a hammer.
The finished coating is left for several days until the glue dries completely. After this, the baseboard and thresholds are installed. It would be a good idea to treat the floor with a special compound that will fill the joints and create a perfectly flat surface.
Installation using additional fasteners
The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. These could be logs, a base made of plywood or OSB, or old floorboards. A special feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using screws or staples.
The optimal floor created using this method seems to be a structure on joists. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-insulating materials can be laid in the space between the beams.
Parquet boards can be laid directly on the joists; in this case, you need to choose thick (at least 22 mm) material. The logs should lie at a short distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is fastened across the joists, the joints should be located in the middle of the joists.
There is another way to create a floor on joists; it will take more time, but will help save on material. An additional advantage is the fact that owners are not limited to simple longitudinal laying; they can lay the board diagonally, creating complex patterns, for example, a herringbone pattern. In this case, sheets of plywood with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and a parquet board is already attached to it. This significantly simplifies the installation work and removes the limitation on the thickness of the board.
Parquet boards are a good choice for a beautiful and practical floor covering. The board is perfect for a stylish apartment and country house. It is easy to work with, its installation does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. Parquet boards are not that expensive, and when laid with trowels, they are in no way inferior to noble parquet.
So that your floor serves long years and pleased with the appearance, it is necessary to correctly install the parquet board. To do this, you should be well aware of all the intricacies of the process: from preparing the base to laying the coating.
Preparing the subfloor
Before installing the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out work to prepare the subfloor. It must be strong, smooth, without depressions, cracks or other defects. The maximum permissible height difference is 2 mm per linear meter. It is also important to pay attention to the humidity level in the room.
For guard wooden planks from exposure to moisture and temperature changes between the base and the coating, it is necessary to organize a substrate of hydro- and heat-insulating material with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Laying parquet boards on a substrate will smooth out unevenness, muffle the sounds of footsteps, and maintain the integrity of the floor for many years.
There are many types of substrate. The most affordable is made from foamed propylene. This material provides excellent vapor barrier, increases sound and heat insulation, but is not durable: complete decay occurs after 7-10 years.
Cork underlay is often used when installing heated floors and parquet in children's rooms. It has high strength characteristics and elasticity, good shock-absorbing properties, and can swell with water.
Coniferous substrate is one of the most expensive varieties. It has high strength and wear resistance, environmental friendliness, and moisture resistance. You can install it yourself without any professional skills.
“Tuplex” backing – practical solution if the screed is not dry enough or condensation periodically forms on it due to irregular heating of the room. It consists of several layers: porous and polyethylene film, as well as a ventilated air layer filled with balls to maintain a constant height.
It's important to remember that wood floors expand and contract over time, depending on climate changes. Space for expansion is required - a gap of about 10 mm between the border of the floor covering and the wall. For areas with linear dimensions over 6 m the distance should be 1.5 mm for each meter of length. It is also recommended to leave gaps around pipes, poles, columns and other elements that come into contact with the floor covering.
Modern methods and features of laying wooden parquet boards
Floor installation work is quite simple; you can do it yourself, following a step-by-step procedure. Laying of parquet boards is carried out according to a technology chosen in advance, for example, on a concrete floor with a screed and fastening using locks on the edges or plywood using glue.
The dimensions of the panels allow the use of various methods and options for laying parquet boards:
- floating method;
- diagonally;
- non-threshold;
- deck (straight);
- "herringbone";
- squares;
- etc.
Floating laying of parquet boards is especially popular. This method is based on the use of glueless locking joints. It is distinguished by its simplicity, high structural stability and speed of operation, the ability to easily correct errors and replace damaged panels. Suitable for rooms up to 60 square meters. m.
The diagonal method is used to visually expand the space. It is great for small spaces. With this method, the panels are laid at an angle of 30-45 degrees towards the wall. Material consumption with the diagonal method increases significantly.
With the threshold-free method, the panels are laid without joints on the doors of the rooms. This requires professional skills, since the slightest mistake can lead to having to start the work all over again.
The most affordable type of laying parquet boards is straight. The boards are placed along one of the walls parallel to each other. With this method, the floor pattern resembles the deck of a ship.
If you want to get not only a durable floor, but also an independent decorative element, the coating should be laid:
- "herringbone";
- "checker";
- "braid";
- square;
- and etc.
The most common is the herringbone pattern, which gives the impression that the coating has different texture. Installation with this method is carried out along the walls or diagonally.
Another simple pattern is the “checker”. It consists of squares assembled from parquet staves. They are laid with a rotation of 90 degrees relative to each other.
The “braid” pattern is based on the interlacing of pairs and triplets of parquet floors. To implement the method, covering 2-3 rocks is required.
Rules for laying parquet boards step by step:
Open a package or two of the flooring to get a general idea of the floor's appearance. Wood – natural material, which may have deviations in texture and color.
Prepare the base. It is necessary to check it for evenness and absence of differences, remove dust and treat it with a synthetic primer.
Measure the length of the planks and calculate the total number of rows of flooring. If the last row turns out to be narrow, it is necessary to trim the boards, leaving a minimum width of 5 cm.
Lay the underlay over the base and secure the joints with tape. It is better to start installing the planks from the corner located along left hand, moving to the right. It is preferable to install boards along the length of the room.
The first board is placed with a gap from the wall, installing clamps. To avoid damaging the wall, insert a thick piece of paper.
The boards are mounted with their ends facing each other, having previously cut off the tenon. For a tighter fit, they are adjusted using a strip and a hammer.
Connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. Check the connections.
Mark the cutting line with a pencil with the required indentation. It must be at least 4 mm from the edge of the penultimate board to create a compensation gap.
To create a durable floor, the panels are laid staggered. In this case, the length of the first panel of the second row should be 2/3 of the standard one.
The planks of the second row are fixed to each other and moved towards the first row. Then the “ridge into the groove” is tightly connected.
To lay the third row, the plank is cut. Its length should be 1/3 of the standard one.
Measure the length of the first board of the fourth row. It should be standard. Connect the planks of the fourth row together.
The remaining rows should be laid in the same order as the first four. Finishing the planks on Right place performed with a hammer through a wide block of wood, last panel finish off through a clamp.
The floor assembly is carried out sequentially in the chosen direction, with the covering being laid from the longest wall and from left to right. The distance between the ends of the planks of adjacent rows should be at least 50 cm.
If the last plank cannot be laid due to lack of space, you can trim its ridge using a chisel. In this case, the part that rises above the upper side surface of the board is removed.
To secure the top side of the plank, apply a thin bead of glue and adjust the plank using a pull block. Insert spacers into the gap between the wall and the floor. After this, you can begin installing skirting boards and joint trims.
If the cover strip abuts the pipe, drill a hole 16 mm larger than its diameter to create an expansion gap. Adjust the board until it fits, then glue the cut piece in place. Cover the cut holes with decorative elements.
Even high-quality material can easily be ruined by unprofessional installation. Therefore, before starting work, it is important to learn how to lay parquet boards. Wood is quite demanding different conditions operation. High humidity and unfavorable temperatures negatively affect the material.
Parquet features
In a dry room, parquet loses its natural moisture and begins to dry out. The coating loses its shape, becomes deformed, and cracks form in it. . At high humidity, the coating absorbs excess, swells, and individual planks bend. So material reacts to various conditions operation. The optimal option is when the humidity in the room is 40-60% (at a temperature of +18-24ºС). In the same conditions, it is recommended to lay the parquet board yourself. In winter, installation should be carried out while heating systems are operating (it is better to use air humidifiers).
More than 100 types of wood are used in the production of parquet. Therefore, the initial quality of the products is completely different. It is recommended to purchase parquet exclusively from companies that themselves install floating parquet boards and use their own material for this. The most popular is the three-layer type of coating:
- the top (front) layer is 1-6 mm thick, which must be covered with varnish or special oil (the thicker one can withstand a greater number of sandings);
- the middle one is often formed from short slices of coniferous wood, and less often created from special moisture-resistant plywood; it usually contains all the elements with which the parquet strips are connected to each other;
- the lower one (its thickness is 2 mm) is made of pine or spruce plywood; it prevents bending and deformation of the material.
For example, it is planned to lay parquet boards so that the surface looks like a solid flooring. Then you should choose products with a solid top layer, where the planks are glued in the “herringbone”, “braid”, “square”, “deck” type.
Laying options
Before starting work, you should decide on the best way to lay the parquet board. The choice of method is based on the following factors:
- dimensions, proportions of the room, level of illumination;
- the material from which the parquet is made;
- color of the coating, presence of varnish on it;
- interior style.
There are the following styling options:
To create unique patterns on the floor, you can combine various options styling
Types of bases for parquet boards
When deciding how to properly lay parquet boards, you need to consider type of base material. The technology for installing the coating depends on this; the subfloor, screed, or joists are attached. To determine how to lay parquet, you can use the recommendations for certain types of buildings:
- in brick (panel) buildings with concrete (reinforced concrete) floors, a screed is first installed;
- in wooden (frame) buildings with wooden floors ( metal beams), subfloors are equipped (laid on joists);
- In cottages and other private homes, the choice of parquet installation method depends on the type of flooring material.
On video: choosing a parquet board based on the type of base.
Laying methods
Today, two methods of laying parquet are common:
- adhesive, which involves fixing elements using glue;
- floating.
The first method is to lay the boards on the following types of bases:
- cement-sand floor, concrete;
- plaster screed;
- ground level.
You should take into account the manufacturer's recommendations, which contain step-by-step instructions. Laying parquet boards with your own hands is done in stages:
- the base is prepared, the level is checked, cleaned of dust and treated with a synthetic primer;
- glue is applied to the area to glue the planks evenly within 10 minutes;
- the first two boxes of parquet boards are laid out;
- the first plank should be longer than wide;
- the second is tapped to the first (a special block is used);
- the cut part of the last board in a row should be used immediately when starting the next one;
- an expansion gap of 0.06-0.12 cm must be left to the wall, where small wedges or spacers should be inserted;
- When several rows are glued, you need to carefully check that there are no gaps left.
Floating parquet installation is divided into two types:
- using glue when the boards are glued together;
- “lock” (no glue is used), and work (“turn and click”, “blow and click”) is completed faster.
Before assembling the parquet using the second method, you should lay the underlay. It performs a number of important functions:
- separates material from the floor;
- evens out minor unevenness in the base, allowing the coating to float softly;
- serves as additional waterproofing and insulation;
- is a shock-absorbing layer;
- does not allow the material to slide along the base when the temperature changes.
You can easily install parquet boards on the substrate with your own hands:
- The process should begin from the left corner of the room, the “latch side” is located towards the wall;
- the next plank is laid at an angle on the edge of the previous one;
- if the edge board that is adjacent to the wall has a groove, then it must be cut off;
- the next row begins with the remainder of the previous one, if the cut part is less than 0.30 m, then the new board is cut in half;
- When assembling parquet at the threshold, you need to check whether the doors open easily; if necessary, they should be trimmed.
To tightly join the boards together, you need to use a wooden (rubber) hammer, which can only be lightly tapped. If this installation method is used, then it is enough to simply dismantle the parquet board. For fairly large areas, this laying method is rarely used. The overall integrity of the coating is compromised. Floating laid the floor may creak or bend. Therefore, parquet in halls can only be glued. 
Parquet on plywood
Laying parquet on plywood according to the technology requires the presence of the following layers:
- the base is a concrete floor;
- logs are installed on it;
- waterproof plywood is laid on top in two layers;
- parquet glue is applied;
- parquet is glued;
- The boards are coated with three layers (putty, primer, varnish).
High-quality parquet not only looks impressive, but also lasts longer.
How to lay parquet boards (3 videos)
Parquet boards have been popular at all times. And today's fashion does not ignore it. Moreover, if you install parquet boards yourself, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.
Rules and subtleties
The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. Small company from Sweden has set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to work hard.
The presented board consisted of two layers and was not widely used. The prototype of a modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.
Today, the dimensions of parquet boards differ depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum – 2.6 m. The width starts from 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The thickness is on average 14 mm.
A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.
The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be species of expensive or less valuable wood. These include oak, maple and alder. IN African countries Cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.
The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material does not deform.
The base can be tinted or bleached to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also performed.
The top layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally coat with alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and serves long term. The main thing is to install it correctly.
It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be level, solid, without chips or depressions. Only a minimal difference is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold up.
There is no need to tempt fate and lay parquet boards in rooms with high humidity– bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.
After transporting the building material, it is necessary to allow it to get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Typically, specialists wait about two days, after which they begin installation. In this case, the room temperature should be higher than or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.
Like laminate, parquet boards are laid lengthwise sun rays, thus concealing seams and minor defects is achieved. Don't forget about the backing. It acts as a noise-canceling material.
Tools and accessories
You should start laying parquet boards only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its indicators should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps take measurements.
A set of tools designed for installing parquet boards:
- Jigsaw. For household use A regular jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, the European Union or the United States of America will do. In a hardware store you can also find good examples of domestic manufacturers. The main thing is that the power of the device is at least 550 watts.
- Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool It was from a renowned manufacturer; for household needs, any that is on hand will do.
- Tape measure and square. Useful for measuring work.
- Pencil. You can use a construction one, or a regular one.
- Mounting block. Using this device, you can reduce the load on the locking joints and on the parquet board itself. In this case, cracks and chips are excluded.
- Wedges. They are used as stops between the wall, door and parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise the board may fail due to changes in temperature and humidity.
- Cutters and staples. Will be needed to secure the last row.
- Hacksaw. A wood saw may be needed when fitting the final boards.
- Hammer. With its help, holes are drilled for joining at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
- Miter box. Will an indispensable assistant when installing skirting boards.
- Sealant and a notched trowel.
Types and methods
The floating flooring method is the most popular throughout the world. The only limitation is the size of the room - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combination joint.
The second method of laying parquet boards is with polyurethane glue. With this, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently sanded.
The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, and the parquet board is tapped with a block to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations in advance.
In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among layers as mechanical.
The methods of fastening the board were discussed above, now it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.
The easiest way to lay parquet boards is either along or across the room. This method is often chosen, since installation does not require specific skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board lengthwise, the room will visually become longer, and if it is laid across, then, on the contrary, it will increase in width.
Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.
Diagonal masonry can only be done by professionals. It is less economical compared to laying along or across, since it produces a sufficient amount of trimmings. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best used in square rooms. You will need a miter saw to make the correct cut. The cutting angle should be 45 degrees in some places, 30 degrees in others.
Laying begins in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, you need to pull the thread or draw a felt-tip pen along the floor. The first row is the central one; you can continue laying from it in one direction or the other.
The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The installation principle is no different, the only difference is the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.
Deck masonry is slightly different from longitudinal method– the offset of the new row should be greater than half the parquet board of the previous one. This ensures good fixation, which means the life of the flooring increases.
Preparing the base
Before laying the parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a permanent foundation and never returning to it again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.
The subfloor has two types - dry and self-leveling. The first type is made on logs, and the second is done using concrete. Concrete expanded clay can also be used for wet floors. You only need to start from the availability in the hardware store and your financial situation.
Self-leveling subfloors are mainly made in panel city houses. This is due to the fact that the ceilings of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. IN country houses It is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.
Remember that you need to pour the concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. Plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable for this.
If waterproofing is not done, there is a high probability that liquid concrete will flow through the cracks to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be firmly attached, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.
The next layer of the “pie” is the thermal insulation material. Commonly used ones include polystyrene foam and penofol. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a new product on the construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but thanks to its unique features the material is gaining popularity.
It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.
Before pouring the floor with concrete screed, it is necessary to set up beacons. The screed will subsequently be leveled along them. For accuracy, you should use a building level; it must be of suitable dimensions and characteristics.
Concrete expanded clay has improved noise absorption and thermal insulation properties. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above the outdated concrete.
Mix the solution according to the instructions, then a short time pour it onto the prepared base. Alignment concrete screed carried out using a tool - rules, do not forget about beacons. Excess must be removed without sparing. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.
The subfloor made of wood is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.
In this case, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.
If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “tweak” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the layers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just correct this deficiency. The next stage begins after it has completely dried.
Subsequently, you need to put a waterproofing film on the screed. All cracks are thoroughly sealed with regular adhesive tape. For sound insulation, you can use natural material - balsa wood or the previously mentioned polyethylene foam. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise occurring when walking.
It is best to use high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions 25 x 100 mm. It is not advisable to save money in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. The logs are installed on a noise reduction layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using a building level. The joists are secured to the floor with corners.
The insulation is placed between the joists so that it is flush with them, there should be no protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with floorboards.
Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of human traffic. Thin plywood can also be negatively affected by massive furniture.
Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood by making an indentation from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.
If the house is wooden, then the subfloor can be installed on the load-bearing beams. In this case, the beams will play the role of a log, which means that thanks to this you can save significantly. But remember that p The distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to “build up” an additional base from the logs.
Selecting a substrate
If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane glue (or any other), then a backing must be laid between the product and the base. Recommendations for the underlying layer are also given by manufacturing plants. This layer comes in the form of non-woven rolls or ordinary mats.
The underlay ensures a tight seal between the parquet board and the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.
The backing layer protects the locking connection from premature failure. It retains heat well in the room and prevents damage to the parquet board due to moisture.
Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the thickness of the substrate does not exceed 3 mm. "Overdose", as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of parquet board locks.
The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a “non-breathable” substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, since if you use polyethylene, the wood may begin to rot under the influence of moisture.
The most affordable is an elastomer backing layer. It is available in three varieties. Ordinary can be called non-crosslinked polyethylene, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, but do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.
The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate even under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant drawback - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to squeaking.
Another synthetic material – foamed polystyrene – is used as a backing layer. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion; there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing properties, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its drawback - it is high cost.
An underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as pine mats. Coniferous underlayment is suitable for any subfloor. It has all the previously mentioned qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Among the disadvantages, experts note high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.
In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.
Construction paper was developed in the country that invented parquet boards. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the others. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes” and has noise-reducing properties. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another disadvantage is the cost.
Cork substrate is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. This is a natural building material obtained by pressing tree bark. The most commonly used bark is oak. It is glued together using various resins. Like any natural material, it is subject to colonization by fungal spores, so it is necessary to lay waterproofing.
There are varieties in the store that have two layers. The second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence or absence of a second layer, the thickness of the cork backing can be either 2 or 7 mm.
One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of double polyethylene film and filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The base layer is also suitable for underfloor heating systems. Adhesive tape is used to secure it.
A plywood underlay is only required when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then a substrate will not be needed.
You can choose a base layer at any hardware store, based only on your preferences and financial situation.
Lay it on concrete
As an example, we will consider the adhesive installation method. Before you begin installing the parquet board, you need to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer has covered the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.
In terms of its physical characteristics, the glue should not resemble liquid sour cream; it is better that it be denser. The adhesive is applied to the concrete base using any in a convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.
Without waiting for the glue to dry, a base layer in the form of plywood sheets is laid. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally level - the work is checked using a building level. Plywood can be laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to seal the seams with acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is checked again with a level, and if the installation was done efficiently, then it is necessary to consolidate the result - sand the surface.
A tape is suitable for this stage Grinder, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. Achieve the same result sandpaper will not work.
The second stage involves laying the parquet board; either polyurethane glue or acrylic glue is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is equal to 10 mm.
The glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To distribute the glue you will need a spatula with a serrated design.
If you cut the next row by a third, you can achieve beautiful drawing. In addition, the locking connection will hold better and will not collapse after some time. The leveling of the parquet board must be checked using a building level.
If the glue protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installing the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. The final finishing of the parquet is done after waiting five days.
If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue or screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the locking connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.
How to put it on a “warm floor”?
First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay parquet boards made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical characteristics, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short period of time, because their thermal conductivity is higher.
It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the “warm floor” effect will not be felt. The fact is that thick wood will not allow heat to escape. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.
The floor must be laid in a floating manner. With this method of laying, the wood does not deform under the influence of humidity and when the temperature changes. The floor heating system also plays an important role. Remember that wood is highly flammable, which means there is a risk of fire.
Warm floors come in infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric heated floors have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. For electric heating element are cables, but in a wooden box there is a risk of fire, and it is completely forbidden to lay water cables in city apartments, since you can flood the neighbors below.
Infrared film heated floors were invented in South Korea several years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a variety electrical systems heating. It is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.
Water floor – best option For country cottages, provided that the ceiling between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden blocks. He has significant disadvantages, among which:
- Wear plastic pipes. High probability of flooding basement and damage to parquet boards.
- Problematic temperature control.
- The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
- It is necessary to have your own boiler room.
There are also a number of rules when installing parquet boards on a heating system. Firstly, installation is carried out only using the floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees or higher. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.
You can lay a parquet board on a heated floor system yourself, but to do this you need to carefully study the work algorithm, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists.
Installation technology
Let's take infrared heated floors as an example, since this new product is easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.
The step-by-step instructions assume that installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base; it must be level, clean and dry. Differences should be checked with a building level; they should not exceed 2 mm.
For a concrete floor, grinding will have to be done, and for a wooden floor, sanding will have to be done. It is very important to clean the surface after completing work using a vacuum cleaner and broom.
Next, you need to protect the heating system from the actions of the concrete base; for this, a base layer is laid. Polyethylene acts as waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system and find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down and secured to each other using adhesive tape. Bitumen insulation protects products from the external environment.
After all connecting stages, the operation of the heated floor is checked. If heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on this that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.
Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with a locking connection, the combination units are easy to install and reliable in operation. It doesn’t matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.
How to dock?
Unfortunately, parquet boards do not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the boards and tiles or other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - in front front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.
In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and liquid stopper. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.
Remember that colorless sealant is universal and suitable in most cases. Unfortunately, a low-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. It is applied using a gun or syringe.
Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is a kind of glue. The glue holds two building materials together and does not deform or crumble. It is advisable to apply it after pre-treating the surface with oil. After the glue has dried, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or stationery knife.
As decorative material Wooden cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. A cork made of wood is installed in the joints before sanding. Main feature this material can be called that it acquires various geometric shapes, and this looks beautiful in most interiors. Another advantage is that the locking connection is not damaged during the operational period.
Metal and plastic profile lay only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. Metallic profile, as a rule, has additional holes; screws must be screwed into them.
Remember that you need to work with tiles with a special drill, otherwise they may lose their presentation.
Features of installation to the wall and ceiling
Attaching parquet to the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. In this way, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. Such a room is suitable for placing acoustic systems - a home theater, a music room and a projector room.
You need to attach the parquet board to a special frame; something similar was discussed in one of the sections - laying the floor on joists, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.
If the sheathing is fixed to the wall, and especially to the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, additional screws are screwed into each parquet board.
The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. Using a router, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in.” The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The finishing is completed with the ceiling.
Common mistakes
Often, the installation of parquet boards begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. Construction material gotta get used to it temperature conditions room, its humidity.
Remember that the temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.
The subfloor must be leveled; differences of only about 2 mm are permissible. It is best to use concrete expanded clay; it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions are performed only after one hundred percent drying.
The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without creaking, and if you skimp on them, the result will be the opposite.
It is very important to lay the parquet boards last, but if the room requires wallpapering the walls, then you need to start with them. Remember that after wallpapering, wallpaper releases moisture when it dries, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.
The wooden base of a parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity; its indicators must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.
Examples in the interior
- In a country house You can use a parquet board to decorate the top floor where the wall meets the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to milling grooves; it is only important not to forget about the screws when fastening. A conventional locking connection will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
- In studio apartments it is very important not to forget that parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity, and from this it follows that it is advisable to lay tiles or moisture-resistant parquet in the kitchen or hallway. In this case, docking can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, such a transition is most often made in the hallway, because if you constantly step on the parquet board with wet shoes, it will become unusable in a short time.
