Convenient outdoor toilet. A country toilet is the simplest option for constructing a structure. How to make insulation

We all love comfort in Everyday life, but it’s rare that we get it just like that, without making any effort. Some people pay “specialists” to repair their home, often getting sloppily done work, while others prefer to do everything with my own hands, which without the proper approach can also lead to problems.

Moreover, any path involves significant financial costs, and therefore the initially correctly chosen approach not only saves your nerves in the future, but also saves the family budget.

And if at the moment, most apartments are already equipped with all the necessary amenities, then summer cottages things are often somewhat worse; often people arriving from the city to their dacha experience a number of inconveniences, and one of the most noticeable is the lack of a toilet.

In this article I would like to tell you how, using relatively cheap materials, you can make a toilet in your country house with your own hands. Go deeper into the subtleties this process, explain all the nuances and difficulties, because a toilet in the country with your own hands, a photo of which you will see in the article, is not a luxury at all, but a necessity.

So, how to build a toilet in your country house with your own hands?

First of all, you need to know about this process that the construction of such a structure in our time requires greater costs than before, unfortunately, it is not even connected with fashion trends, but with new sanitary requirements, which strictly indicate the need to preserve an environmentally friendly environment.

At the same time, there is an urgent issue about the disposal of accumulated waste, because the need to regularly clean a simple toilet in a country house can turn anyone’s life into a nightmare. This problem will be solved modern technologies, which have now become much cheaper and more accessible, allowing most people to use them on their plots.

Finally, here again the desire to create the most comfortable conditions for existence intervenes; few people are now satisfied with a small rickety booth with a hole in the floor, which is understandable, because such structures do not at all improve a country holiday, and, moreover, spoil the appearance of the site as a whole.

In this regard, it becomes clear that the ideal toilet for a summer house should be safe for environment, convenient from the point of view of waste disposal, comfortable to use and fits beautifully on a summer cottage.

After defining the main task, it is necessary to solve a number of other important issues:

1. Based on the local conditions, determine how the wastewater will be drained, where it will be discharged, and how it will be disposed of.

2. Find a suitable place on your summer cottage to install a toilet.

3. Make a choice of the preferred design solution - this could be a booth or a cabin.

4. Find decorative design, which would be optimally matched in terms of construction complexity and appearance.

5. Determine the necessary expenses for all.

All these issues are largely interconnected, so they need to be solved in a comprehensive manner, thinking about how to make a toilet in the country with your own hands. At the same time, when building a booth, you can allow yourself more freedom, since only appearance and convenience depend on it, and the most complex and expensive element here is the base.

What to build a toilet in a country house from?

In most cases, it is best to build a wooden toilet for a summer residence; this is due to the low cost of this material; in addition, wood is very easy to process, it has good heat-resistant characteristics and, if done correctly, does not cause any harm to humans. Due to correct processing You can make it resistant to weather conditions and unsuitable for any bacteria or insects to grow on it.

In addition, a lightweight wooden structure allows you to save on a foundation, which in some cases may not be useful at all, because the size of a toilet in a country house with your own hands can be small, in which case its cabin can simply be placed on reinforced concrete monoliths or bricks.

To build a simple toilet in the country with your own hands, you need to decide on the types of materials.

For the construction of the frame, ordinary timber is often used; it is convenient to cover the floor and toilet seat with tongue-and-groove boards; cut or tongue-and-groove boards are suitable for external cladding, and cut and uncut boards are suitable for sheathing the roof.

In the construction of sheathing, boards made of waterproof plywood or OSB can be effective, which can also be used to create battens for sheathing. Good stuff can become a tongue and groove board, which, at a slightly higher price, surpasses most other materials in its properties.

For curved sections, it is optimal to use a marine boat plank, which, in addition to everything else, will last much longer in areas where there is frequent precipitation, however, compared to a tongue-and-groove plank, it holds back gusts of wind less well.

Without exception, all wooden elements must be treated first against rot, and then against dampness. It is this sequence that is the most correct, in which the boards will serve the longest time.

Those parts of the toilet that will face inward (towards the cesspool and the ground) must also be treated bitumen mastic or hot bitumen.

What kind of toilet should I build in my dacha?

Even if you decide to build a simple toilet in your country house with your own hands, you must not forget about the importance of its appearance. Exists whole line types of cabins, in the form of a house, hut, hut, birdhouse. Ultimately, you can always experiment with forms, do something completely unusual, however, in my article I will focus on basic options without going into the realm of complex design.

So what is the difference between listed species cabins:

1. When building a hut, you need to understand that it is strong, constructive, has good resistance to precipitation and wind, does not require large amounts of materials, at the same time, it requires a lot of space and suffers from a number of inconveniences, primarily from cramped conditions. If you try to make it larger, the benefit from saving materials disappears. The design itself is primitive, and may not suit some summer cottages.

2. In terms of complexity of construction, a birdhouse is even simpler than a hut; it does not require large amounts of materials and takes up minimal space. However, it has a weak design, does not hold temperatures well, and is prone to drafts. Despite the shortcomings, such a design can be optimal if an outdoor toilet is intended for a summer residence.

3. In the construction of a house, you can achieve greater heat resistance and strength than a birdhouse. It also requires a little land and materials, but it is more difficult to install a water tank on it. This design allows the use of a variety of finishes and design elements.

4. The complexity of constructing a hut exceeds other types of cabins, moreover, it requires more materials. At the same time, its faceted shape allows you to create very durable structures that are well protected from adverse climatic conditions. In terms of functionality and ergonomics, this is one of the best options. And the design possibilities are almost endless.

When the type is finally chosen, it is necessary to determine the size of the toilet in the country.

For a birdhouse with a house, the ideal dimensions of the floor and toilet seat are at least 1.2 meters in width and 1.5 meters in depth. In the case of a hut and a hut, the depth can be left at 1.5 meters, and the width taken around 0.9 meters.

It is important that there is at least 40 centimeters of distance from the head of the person entering to the walls. Wherein optimal height the ceiling can be called several meters. In general, when the question arises of how to build a toilet in a country house, it is important to remember that many of its parameters will depend on your preferences. In this regard, the size of the toilet can be adjusted depending on your own height, etc.

Almost all of the types of cabins listed above suffer from general lack, namely exposure to gusts of wind if the toilet door is not closed. To combat this, you simply need to install the door on barn hinges. For more durable hut-type structures, you can use hidden hinges.

Where to put the toilet in the country?

You cannot think about how to make a simple toilet in a country house without taking into account such important aspects as its location, especially if it involves the presence of a cesspool, the construction of which is prohibited if the groundwater is located above 2.5 meters.

The choice of location for construction should be based on a number of factors, such as the type of soil, the proposed foundation, distance from the house, etc. All these elements are closely interconnected and require a serious approach, because not only convenience, but also safety for you and the environment depends on it.

There are strict sanitary standards that prohibit the location of structures of this kind at a distance closer than 12 meters from the nearest housing, and the distance from a water source must be at least 20 meters. In addition, it is important to remember about the neighbors, who are unlikely to approve of the construction of a toilet right under their fence.

In order to build a toilet for your dacha yourself, you should first decide how far you are willing to walk; in some cases, the distance of the toilet from the house only has a positive effect on the atmosphere of the dacha, and the proximity of the house to the cesspool can be completely unpleasant, for example, due to possible odors. At the same time, the location of the toilet must be accessible to the access of a sewer truck, because the maximum length of its hose is approximately 7 meters.

It’s good if it is possible to install the toilet in an inconspicuous and secluded place, for example, in the garden, where trees cover it from view. general view. It is also important to remember that placing the toilet in a low area can lead to a faster filling of the cesspool, due to the fact that most of the precipitation will fall directly into it. And the location of such a structure at a height can make it susceptible to strong gusts of wind.

Once the location has been decided it is definitely necessary to decide what type of cesspool is suitable for it.

Types of cesspools for toilets in the country

To build a toilet in your country house step by step, it is important to choose the right type of cesspool. They differ mainly in the degree of penetration of waste into the ground, and are divided into sealed pits, as well as pits with a filter bottom.

Sealed pits require more money due to the more frequent need to clean them. Pits with a filter bottom are cheaper, but are fraught with environmental pollution, and their use is not permissible from the point of view of sanitary standards.

There are different types of walls for cesspools; they can be monolithic, brick, plastic, and also consist of concrete rings. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Brick cesspools cannot be called cheap, however, they are quite durable, they can be made quite deep, which reduces the need for frequent cleaning, and they have a fairly good seal. It is possible to create both a sealed version and a design with a filter bottom.

Plastic containers are quite inexpensive, however, due to their size, they will require more frequent cleaning. When creating a sealed structure, only the upper part of the container is cut off; when creating a filter, the lower part is also cut off, and the bottom is covered with a filter layer.

Structures made of concrete rings cannot be airtight because they move easily in the ground; their use is only permissible in places where groundwater is located at a significant depth. After filling the pit with rings, its bottom is either covered with a concrete screed or a filter layer.

Monolithic concrete cesspools have a good seal, but due to the nature of their construction, it can be difficult and expensive to make them too deep, which means they will have to be cleaned frequently.

Talking about cesspools, one might think that building this kind of structure is extremely difficult; below you will see how you can build a toilet in a country house, photos, instructions, description of the process.

Do-it-yourself toilet in the countryside step by step with photos

Approaching the question of how to make a toilet in a dacha yourself, let’s take a relatively simple and comfortable design, accompanying its construction with photographs, because to build a toilet in a dacha with your own hands, drawings are not necessary, it’s quite easy to do without them.

The foundation will be concrete pillars, for them we make holes of 130 millimeters by 0.8 meters. We insert pipes inside to the maximum possible depth (for example, old water pipes). After this, fill everything with solution using roofing material and sleeves.

The strapping will be a 100 by 100 beam, which we will screw to the corners.

We cover the floor and toilet seat with tongue and groove boards. The design for the toilet seat itself is standard, nothing special, you can make it removable.

We make the racks from 50/50 timber.

We make the roof from planed boards 25 by 120, add flat galvanized sheets to them, bending them along the edges at the back and front, and cover the sides with galvanized profiles.

For the walls and toilet seat we take 9 millimeters of OSB, varnish them on the inside to reduce the risk of splinters, and also varnish the toilet seat.

The outer sheathing is made from a 25 by 50 block, almost any will do, and we put siding on top of it.

In the lower part along the perimeter of the structure, you can put some scraps from corrugated board, this will help create the desired visual effect.

The threshold can be finished with galvanization.

Polycarbonate can be used for the window at the entrance; small gaps may be allowed to create ventilation.

The door is made from a sheet of OSB, boards 25 by 120 are placed on the bottom and top, with outside The board is also placed, leaving space for the siding; the boards can be fastened to the OSB sheet using simple self-tapping screws. The siding is also attached to the structure with small self-tapping screws.

I hope that the description of how to make a toilet for a dacha with your own hands, a step-by-step photo of this process, will inspire someone to new feats in improving life comfort, because it is on such little things that getting complete pleasure from a dacha holiday depends.

Now you know how to make a toilet in the country, what difficulties there may be with this and what you need to take into account.

Do-it-yourself toilet in the country. Video of the construction process.

What every self-respecting owner should have suburban area? Of course, first of all, the toilet. You can't go anywhere without him. A latrine is an important component of a comfortable stay in nature. And how to make it with your own hands and at the same time save money, this is what we will talk about.

Modern tendencies

We must remember that the latrines of today are significantly different from those of several decades ago. What is this connected with? First of all, with the change not in better side environmental situation, which is why the requirements for sanitary standards have become stricter.

Helpful information:

Innovations in the field of waste processing and disposal, which have become more accessible to the general public, also played an important role. Modernity dictates its own rules regarding the design and comfort of toilets, and this is reflected in preferences. The place where people relieve themselves should now be not only ergonomic, but also attractive.

Based on all of the above, you can slowly begin building a toilet on your summer cottage. We will touch upon the topic of capital structures made of brick and concrete lightly, but will pay more attention to the external design, which is also of great importance. Like, for example, in this photo:

As for the basis for the toilet, that is, the foundation, then, oddly enough, you can do without it. And that's why. The fact is that with seasonal shifts in the soil, deeper layers undergo greater changes, while the surface layers can move by 5 centimeters on average. This will not at all disturb the stability of the cabin, perhaps just a little, which will be completely unnoticeable. And piles, foundation strips and pillars, on the contrary, tend to be more skewed.

If it is decided to install the foundation, then this must be done before the cold weather to avoid the above-mentioned problems. The exception is foundations that are well buried in the soil; these can easily withstand winter and frost.

So how do you install a cabin without a base?

Everything is very simple. To do this, concrete posts for trellises are taken, and a booth is installed on top of them. You can also place the booth on ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths or bricks. But the first option (columns) will be better. In the southern regions, trellis posts are often used for vineyards, and where the climate is not so mild, they are used for climbing plants.

Trellis posts are produced in lengths from 1.2 to 6 meters, with dimensions from 10X12 to 20X30 centimeters. They have a trapezoidal cross-section. On the larger side there are wire rod rigging eyes ranging in size from 6 to 12 millimeters, on the smaller side there are rounded corners. To get the pins on which the booth will be attached to the base, you need to saw the eyes in the middle part with a grinder and straighten them.

If a cesspool is provided for the toilet in advance, then you don’t have to worry about the safety of the rear beam of the cabin, which serves as a support. In this case, the negative chemical environment is not dangerous for the tree.

If your summer cottage is located in an area where there are frequent winds, then the cabin still needs to be strengthened. Profiled pipes (40x40x2) or support posts made of timber (80x80) are well suited for this. Wherein metal base you need to concrete it about half a meter below the humus layer, and first treat the wooden one with hot bitumen, then with rough roofing felt with sprinkling, and then dig it to a depth of 30 centimeters.

Structures, cladding and materials

As a rule, 4 types of lumber are used for the cabin. This:

• edged and unedged boards (“twenty”) or roof slats measuring 50x20;
• for cladding on the outside - edged or tongue-and-groove boards with dimensions from 20 to 30 millimeters;
• For flooring and toilet seat - tongue and groove boards (40X (120-150));
• frame beam (80x80 or 60x60).

You can replace the sheathing board with OSB (8X20 thick) or waterproof plywood. By the way, you can cut laths from OSB for sheathing. A little more expensive, but in some respects even better, is a tongue and groove forty for cladding.

The best option for covering the cabin with tongue-and-groove boards is horizontal cladding with belts. In this case, the ridges of the tongues should be directed upwards, and the grooves downwards, which will protect the sheathing from the accumulation of unnecessary moisture in the tongues. The door is sheathed vertically.

If the design plan includes curved sections, then it is best to cladding it with boat boards according to the marine type, as shown in the figure. This will be especially good for areas where there is a lot of rainfall, but a little worse for windy areas where tongue and groove piling is best. By using electric jigsaw with a rotary shoe, you can make an edged one from a boat board. In this case, it is important to observe the angle of inclination of the visor of the board, which should be within 30 degrees. It should also be taken into account that the canopies of the boards should be directed downward along the slope, as shown in the figure.

It is important to know that after pruning, solid lumber must be treated with special preparations that prevent putrefactive processes -. Afterwards, it is necessary to impregnate it twice with a water-polymer emulsion. This product is affordable and can provide good protection against dampness for many years. You should definitely adhere to a strict impregnation sequence. Otherwise, PVA glue simply will not allow the biocide to cover the wood protective film. It is better to treat materials for covering the toilet seat and flooring (from the inside), which face the cesspool or the ground, with bitumen mastic or hot bitumen.

Appearance of a toilet for a summer residence

A wooden toilet in a suburban area is traditionally made in 4 architectural forms, which have funny names. See pictures.

• birdhouse;
• hut;
• house;
• hut.

In the photo you can see the types of wooden toilet stalls.

These models do not have significant differences, but there is a difference between them. Which? Let's consider this issue in more detail.

11 drawings of the country toilet “Birdhouse”

It is even simpler in design, and requires very little land for it. But the structure is considered not very durable, and the “birdhouse” is prone to blowing and does not hold heat well. By the way, these disadvantages apply to all buildings with a pitched roof type. The design of such a structure as a birdhouse toilet is kept to a minimum. But this model is perfect as a summer toilet, on the roof of which you can install a pressure water tank, where the water will be heated by the sun. In addition, such a “load” contributes to greater stability of the cabin. Also, a building of this type can be used as a premises for household needs.

3 drawings of the country toilet "Shalash"

The advantages of this model are: resistance to precipitation and winds, strength, simplicity of design, low material consumption. Disadvantages: it requires a considerable amount of land for construction, as well as the inconvenience that if you miscalculate the capacity a little, you can hit your head, and on both sides. Therefore, you need to take the height along the ridge at least 3 meters, but then you won’t be able to save materials.

8 drawings of the country toilet "House"

The type of toilet called "house" is the most popular. Its design is considered better than a “birdhouse” in terms of strength, and the same amount of land and materials will be needed for construction. “House” is more suitable for implementation designer fantasies, although the water tank will be more difficult to install.

6 drawings of the country toilet "Izbushka"

The “hut” is the most complex in design, however, it is very durable and can withstand any vagaries of weather. An interesting cut gives room for imagination; the “hut” can be decorated in any way you like. Well, functionality and ergonomics are generally at their best! Inside you can arrange a hanger, washbasin and shelf, and this will not take up extra space.

Dimensions of a toilet for a summer residence

The permissible dimensions of the “house” and “birdhouse” on the floor (taking into account the toilet seat) are from 1.5 meters deep and from 1.2 meters wide. The same 1.5 meters for depth are taken for a “hut” with a “hut”, while the traditional width is 0.9 meters. In a hut, this is calculated by shoulder level (within 1.6 meters from the floor for a person of average height with shoes on); in a hut, measurements are taken along the floor. It is noteworthy that in “Khrushchev” buildings, which are built using blocks, there are toilets measuring 0.7X1.1, but they are not designed for entering in outerwear and country shoes.

However, to build a toilet on a summer cottage, it is still permissible to reduce the width to 1 meter.

According to the rules, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a person in a standing position to the wall, this is especially important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. In this case, the height from floor to ceiling is optimally 2.1 meters, and above the toilet seat - 1.9 meters. The height of the side of the toilet seat from the floor should be within 50 cm, in contrast to the standard option adopted in apartments, which is 40 cm.

The models “birdhouse”, “hut” and “house” have one thing in common, but in a certain sense significant drawback: If you don’t lock the door, then within 10-20 minutes both the door and the booth will become loose. If this happens repeatedly, the toilet stall risks losing stability. To prevent this from happening, you just need to install the door on barn hinges (as shown in the figure), and then there will certainly be no cause for alarm. Because of its strength, the “hut” is not in danger of loosening, so its door can be safely attached to secret hinges.

Construction of a booth

The simplest is to install a “birdhouse”, and the installation process is carried out using 100 mm nails for 60 mm timber or 150 mm for 80X80 mm timber. The sheathing is nailed with 60-70 mm nails.

The entire process of building a birdhouse is shown in the pictures.

Algorithm for constructing a birdhouse model toilet:

1. Take roofing felt, then cover the corner slabs (columns) and the load-bearing belt with it. The roofing material should be simple, without sprinkling.
2. Then immediately assemble the lower support frame from the timber. Processing is required. Why right away? Because roofing material that is not adapted to ultraviolet rays can quickly deteriorate.
3. Then the floor is laid to the front edge of the toilet seat. The pieces of the remaining frame are filled with boards of the same thickness as for the floor. We also don’t forget about processing (especially on the inside).
4. We prepare the back and front frames, while the joints are cut into half the tree.
5. The backdrop and front frame are nailed to the bottom and reinforced with ties. The ties should be 1/4 embedded.
6. The frame for the toilet seat is made in the same way.
7. The toilet seat needs to be sheathed, then the seat window needs to be cut out, and then we can start covering the walls.
8. Assembling roof cladding.
9. The roof deck is made of any rigid roofing material. A figured window (the so-called “ace”) is cut out in the door leaf and above the door itself.
10. The door canopy is made and the corners are sheathed.

Now the room is quite suitable for use.

Of course, when constructing a waste site, other types of buildings are also used, which are shown in this video:

DIY country toilet: video

“Izbushka” is also a fairly popular model, but it is also more difficult to build. Therefore, below are projects that indicate accurate calculations material and cutting the boards. An example drawing is also provided. It should be noted that the door in the “hut” has high degree durability and can withstand any weather, even strong winds. Even if the owner forgetfully leaves the door open for some time, the wind, of course, will loosen it, but will not damage the door leaf and repairs will be kept to a minimum.

Design of a toilet cabin model “hut”: photo

Below are less detailed drawings of several more projects: “birdhouse” (second option), “house” and “hut”. However, for those who have already understood how to build a “hut”, it will be much easier to understand the above models.

Toilet in the garden

There are certain factors (which will be discussed at the end of the article) due to which it is better to install the “house” and “hut” models in the depths of the garden, that is, among the trees. But the construction of a latrine in the garden has a number of features. We won’t describe them in detail, it’s better to watch the video and you’ll understand everything yourself:

Construction of a toilet in the garden: video

Outbuildings

In suburban areas, it is traditional to combine a toilet, shower and outbuildings. Also sometimes rooms are attached to them summer kitchens and a place where you can hide from rain or wind (if there is no house on the site). This is all completely correct and justified. And that's why.

The fact is that in a summer cottage, the amount of “gray” water that ends up in the drain after using water in the shower or in the kitchen is significantly less than fecal water. And compared, for example, with residential building, the drainage volume is small. Therefore, it makes no sense to make this same drain separate. An acceptable and frequently used option for waste disposal in a utility room is a cesspool. Below are examples of how to make a utility block along with a shower and toilet in a summer cottage.

Plan of the utility block "Cheburashka": photo

This model of a utility room with a funny name was invented during the Khrushchev Thaw. Sets of parts for the Cheburashka can be purchased now, and, what’s most interesting, under the same names as before. The big advantage of this option is its reasonable price, functionality, simplicity and minimum footprint. In this case, the support pillars are concreted or dug directly into the ground (corrugated pipe 40x40x2, and timber 100x100). Sheathing is currently done using corrugated sheets, but previously it was customary to sheathe with slate.

The presented figure shows several plans for utility units, more complex in design:

Layout of utility blocks with a “change house”: photo

They consist of large rooms that include a barn or warehouse, a shelter from the weather, and a kitchen. Also, such a room requires the installation of a window in it. You can also arrange a mini-room with a sofa, table and chair. Entrance to the shower and toilet is from the street. So, a considerable area of ​​​​such a building is quite a winning option.

The figure below shows a utility room, which is optimally suited for its construction in the corner part of the site. This option involves installing a washbasin according to the summer type, that is, in the open air. The main difference of this type of structure is its maximum compactness and very small dimensions. It is noteworthy that the plan of the building is brick, but if it is made of wood, then the size of the premises in the plan can be reduced to 2x2 meters.

cesspool

And this picture shows a diagram of the construction of a utility block and a toilet in the yard. Special attention deserves reflector 1, which is
one of the main components of the toilet, because it is it that directs feces to the front part of the drainage pit. Then the entire mass gradually slides into the so-called pumping pocket. During this process, the shed masses are mixed with bacteria. It is thanks to the reflector that the correct biocenosis occurs. If you do not use it, then you will need a hole 2 times deeper and larger in volume. “Grey” waste can drain into a pit without a reflector and also end up in the front part. In order to avoid infiltration into the ground, it is imperative to use a blind concrete box 4 and a clay lock 3. An inspection and cleaning door 2 is also extremely necessary.

Country toilet in the house

It is quite possible to install a country toilet at home, however, you need to know important rules and solve a number of problems that may be encountered during the installation process. So:

cesspool

It must be remembered that draining wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground is almost impossible. Otherwise, you will have to adhere to certain distances that are prescribed in sanitary standards. This:

• from water supply sources, a distance of at least 30 meters is accepted, and with traditional geology (in the middle zone) - from 50 to 80 meters;
• the distance from plantings of food crops and stagnant bodies of water should also be 30 meters;
• the distance from flowing bodies of water (rivers and streams) is taken to be 15 meters;
• from road surfaces and buildings - 5 meters;
• from the border of the site, bushes and non-fruit trees - from 2 meters.

It must be taken into account that these rules apply not only to objects on your own site, but also on the sites of your neighbors. And, as they say, you can’t joke with this, because in case of violations on your part, the law will be on the side of your neighbors.

Therefore, it is very important to understand that a toilet in a summer cottage must be built with cesspool according to the deaf type, . Modern and improved products designed for cesspools can help with this. Sanitary barrels usually travel out of town once a season, and by making an agreement with your neighbors, you can divide the cost of the call among those who use the services.

Summer residents who are able to make something on their own plot on their own have not ignored the cesspool. The video below shows how to make a cesspool with your own hands.

DIY cesspool: video

Smell

Installing a toilet with a flush system and a siphon is not permitted even in areas that have a constant water supply. Why? The fact is that due to water there will be an excess accumulation of moisture, which can have a detrimental effect on the bacteria that we really need that live in the pit. As a result, an almost emergency situation may occur and you will have to call a special service and carry out serious cleaning.

However, installing a backlash closet does not exclude the possibility that unpleasant odors will not penetrate into the room. This can happen for rather trivial reasons: due to the blowing of the ventilation draft by the wind and its surges. But there is a solution to this problem. In order to avoid the above-mentioned misunderstandings, you need or breather. It is a ventilation with forced draft, due to which a pressure below atmospheric is formed in the pit.

You should not install a fan on the breather duct - this will do absolutely nothing. After all, ordinary household fan will not be able to function for a long time in an aggressive environment. There are special fans designed for such purposes. However, they are quite expensive. Such fans must be explosion-proof, and they will also need to be cleaned frequently.

In a house with heating, it will be quite easy to install a country closet. Options for boiler and furnace are shown in the pictures. How to do it? One of the most important links is the installation of a backlash channel with thermogradient draft under the breather. You also need to pay attention to the fact that the breather pipe must protrude at least 70 cm above the ridge of the roof and the mouth of the chimney. And in order for the hood to function well even in the warm season (when there is no heating), you need to take a metal pipe and paint it black, which, as you know, attracts heat on sunny days.

There are also toilet options for cottages without heating. Which? To begin with, let’s give an example: in the first “Khrushchev” buildings, fairly large toilets were installed, and the flush was so powerful that no brushes or other attributes were needed. This draining force was achieved due to the fact that the barrel was suspended almost from the ceiling, the height of which was 2.8 meters. On the side of the barrel there was a chain with a pear, with the help of which the draining process was carried out. Thus, the height of the flow of water falling down was about 2 meters.

The noise that arose as a result of the release of water was very loud. Subsequently, they came up with models of compact toilets, where the barrel was located on the back side of the seating area.

At first, the toilet bowls were shaped like sinks with a basin, but with low water pressure, the contents were almost impossible to flush away. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique flush, which was much more convenient. This type of toilet is shown in the figure.

Not so long ago, your humble servant also decided to improve the toilet in a suburban area. I wanted to buy something with a siphon so that there would be no unpleasant odor. A toilet with an oblique flush can flush even without good water pressure. But what if we make pressure, as in Khrushchev’s? This will save water, and the quality of the drainage will remain high.

At first I thought of buying an inexpensive compact toilet without a dispenser, in which water can be flushed as long as the button is pressed. Then it would be necessary to raise it higher. But then I thought that it would be inconvenient: to stretch high, water is given by the hour, so I additionally need to buy a pressure storage tank.

As a result, I took a “sink” with a direct downward outlet. For water, I took a 50-liter plastic barrel and hung it from the ceiling. I decided to supply the flushing water using two pieces of corrugated plastic through a ball valve with a handle so that it could be opened more sharply.

I was pleasantly pleased with the result, because it only took up to 3 liters of water to flush. And if you calculate the number of flushes per day from a tank with a capacity of 50 liters, then it turns out from 15 to 25 flushes per day. On top of that, the bacteria in the pit feel great in this situation!

It is noteworthy that the cabins described above can also support tanks with a volume of up to 200 liters. However, you should not install them, because frequent draining will oversaturate the pit with moisture, and its contents will begin to overflow and sour. I don't think anyone needs this.

Without cesspool

You can make a country closet without a cesspool in the form of a dry closet. But for any sewerage, natural or artificial bacteria are used, and it turns out that this is “bio”. Also, when purchasing a dry closet, you can buy something that is not “bio” at all. Therefore, we need to better understand this topic and figure out how to receive and process wastewater bypassing the sewer system. In other words, how to install an autonomous toilet on your property.

Public “autonomous” toilets can process waste in two types, biological and chemical. It happens that all this is combined, depending on the connected cartridge. “Chemists” process wastewater in two ways:

• strong oxidizing agents of inorganic origin;
• organic abiogenic reagents (for example, formaldehyde).

Also, “chemists” have a high absorption and throughput capacity and are expensive in price. The contents of the cartridge are toxic; its disposal and refilling is carried out by specially trained people using special equipment and protective equipment. Consequently, in normal household conditions, chemical toilets are practically not used.

In biotoilets, biocenosis is carried out thanks to specially grown crops. It turns out that the blind cesspool, in which the latest antiseptics are used, is also a dry closet. Below are options that do not require pumping and without the accumulation of liquefied wastewater.

It is interesting that a type of toilet was previously used, which has survived to this day and is successfully used today. This is the so-called. There is also a variety of it: powder-closet. They are slightly different from each other, but also have a lot in common. The most important thing is that they use natural bacteria from bogs saturated with peat. These microorganisms have important properties. What kind? They are inactive and process little wastewater (based on the net volume of the crop). However, their main advantage is their extraordinary vitality; these bacteria also tend to hibernate and wake up when favorable conditions occur.

It is customary for a composting or simple peat toilet to have a container with stone drainage of 40-200 liters. It will ensure the absorption of excess moisture, and then it will gradually be able to release it. A breather is also needed to absorb harmful gases. Both are very important for a peat toilet, since without these two components the emergence of a stable culture is impossible; it can dry out, fall asleep, sour, or even die.

The advantage of a peat dry closet is its ease of operation. After visiting it, you just need to pour peat chips into the funnel. The contents of the collection should be periodically shaken out onto the compost heap. After 2-3 years, the aged, disinfected and fermented compost is suitable as a fertilizer. However, a composting toilet cannot withstand overloads, like a powder closet, and does not eliminate unpleasant odors. If, for example, a party is expected at the dacha for several days, then after it it is guaranteed that the dry closet will need to be cleaned and refilled.

Self-contained microflora toilets use advanced bacteria high efficiency, which are obtained by genetic engineering. The most important thing is that they are completely harmless to people, they have been successfully used since the 80s of the last century and they have long been tested for “strength”. The process of changing a culture cartridge is very simple, it is no more complicated than changing a baby's diaper. But its contents must be recycled, as it is not suitable for fertilizer. If you spend 1-2 days a week at the dacha, then one cartridge cartridge is enough for the whole summer, and 2-3 replacements will be needed for the season. It must be said that there are quite a few varieties of cassettes and it is very important to be able to understand them so as not to purchase a fake.

For example, you should not buy an expensive cabin (as shown in Figure 1 below). Of course, it is comfortable, warm, has anti-vandal protection, and can take heavy loads. But the shelf life of any bacteria-based cartridge is still limited, regardless of the nature of use. At the same time, the crop can lose its properties before its absorption capacity is exhausted, and the price of the cassette is not small.

You should beware of purchasing cheap handicraft products (as shown in Figure 2). In this case, an “alternative” low-quality and inexpensive bio toilet is taken (as shown in the picture below) and a cubicle is built around it. As a result, rapid degradation occurs, an unpleasant odor appears, and the cartridge is replaced at your own expense. And if we’re going to take a full-fledged toilet for the dacha, then the dacha-household option (3) is better suited. Its price is reasonable, its drainage life is less, and it is designed for a family.

The same applies to bio-toilets. Public high-capacity ones, which can work both on chemistry and on microflora (item 4), are quite expensive in terms of money. Special bio-toilets for dachas (item 5) have been put on sale; they are cheaper and are suitable for a family. However, if only water is poured into their barrels, they will quickly deteriorate. The water is replaced with a special liquid, which is supplied for flushing in very small doses, literally drops. Therefore, it is important to ask in advance what the toilet is flushed with and the cost of this very flush.

Bucket toilets (item 6) are also used as a country option, which are designed for 2-5 days of use for 3 to 5 people. They are well suited for short-term use. There are also chemical options that are conditionally disposable; they are more often used on trips and in field conditions. These types of toilets are rented out, and after the expiration date of the absorbent or upon return, they are given for refilling.

Another good option for a summer house is a bio-toilet with a separate cartridge (item 7). Its main advantage is that it is much cheaper than a whole toilet. You can make a booth yourself or buy it. In general, you will get a fairly comfortable mini-room where you can relieve yourself (pos. 8). This is perfect for a suburban area, because the cost of a toilet and cartridges is much less than the price for a cesspool for a booth and a zero cycle.

The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater in the area. If the groundwater is deep (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water does not rise above two meters from the surface of the earth even during heavy rains, any of the above types of toilets is possible. When groundwater levels are high, this is exactly what we usually have in areas middle zone– the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with a cesspool is unacceptable.

When groundwater stands above 2.5 m, the preferred option is a powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, waste does not enter groundwater and is safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Toilet type	Description
Classic "country" toilet with pit cesspool (1)	This is a cesspool one and a half meters deep, on top of which there is a corresponding “house”. Everything that falls into the pit accumulates there, gradually decomposing. Such a toilet is not suitable for a large family, since it will fill up too quickly and the sewage will not have time to ferment. The situation is resolved in two ways: either the toilet is moved to another place by burying a filled pit, or the cesspool is cleaned - manually or using a cesspool truck.
Powder closet (2)	Suitable for areas with high groundwater levels. There is no cesspool here. Its role is played by a sealed container installed under the seat. After each trip to the toilet, a new portion of sewage should be covered with peat, ash or sawdust. When the container is full, its contents are taken out into the compost pit, sprinkled with peat.
Backlash closet (3)	This type of toilet is suitable for being in the home. This is a structure equipped with a sealed cesspool (next to the outer wall). It is cleaned using a sewer machine. Thus, the pit itself is located outside the house, and all waste enters it through a pipe. The pit should slope away from the house.
Dry toilet	This is the same booth that stands on city streets with a container that contains active microorganisms that process waste. Buy such a toilet - there are any sizes on sale, dry closets suitable for home and outdoor use.
Chemical	Essentially the same dry closet, but with a different waste processing technology. Chemicals are used - the contents of the toilet (unlike the dry closet) become unsuitable for use as fertilizer in beds and flower beds.
Peat toilet (4)	This is the same powder closet, only of a more modern design. Suitable for home use. This is just a toilet, in the tank, instead of water, there is dry peat, and the role of sewer pipes is played by a container for waste. The design provides ventilation - it is taken to the open air.

Construction of a toilet in the country: according to the law and in harmony with the neighbors

There are clear standards for the placement of a country street toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, to any source of water (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.

The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.

On a note

When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your area: unpleasant odors should not bother the neighbors.

When your summer cottage is located slightly downhill, the toilet should be lower than the source of clean water - this way waste will not get into the water.

Regarding the country house and neighbors’ buildings

• The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, and basements.
• From the building of a bathhouse, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
• From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - no less than 4 m.
• From trees and bushes - no less than a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.

Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet

Building a classic “village” toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, let's focus on the device more modern design- powder closet.

Pros of powder closet:

• This design does not include a cesspool, which simplifies its construction. No need to dig a pit.
• A powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
• Groundwater is not polluted.

The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have precisely calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. Thus, the minimum width of the building must be at least 1.5 m, depth - at least a meter, height - 2.2 m. The dimensions can be large, but making them smaller is not advisable. Now it’s time to decide building material. Most often, country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, cover the walls with metal profiles or slate.

Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet

The toilet is a lightweight building that does not require a strong, solid foundation. Often a strip foundation is poured under a country toilet - the foundation is poured only along the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is brought above the zero mark and filled with cement mortar. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing felt. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken brick. Layers of coarse sand and gravel are poured into the trench; each layer should be compacted and watered. The foundation is poured at ground level cement mortar. The base is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing felt. WITH outside the foundation needs to be covered.

But it is much easier to make the simplest foundation for a wooden toilet: either bury supports (concrete pillars, timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out along the perimeter of the building.

Operating procedure

1. The first stage is marking the site for future construction. We accurately mark the corners of the future building.
2. We bury supports as a foundation. We need four asbestos cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. The outside should be coated with bitumen mastic.
3. Some types of soils do not have the necessary characteristics for construction: strength, slight compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually compress when loaded, clay soils swell, and forest-like soils can settle under the weight of the building in spring and autumn. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a number of drainage measures or replacement of unsuitable soil for construction. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and look at the composition of the soil. The best option for construction is if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
4. 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug in the corners of the future building. The pipes are buried into the ground to this depth. Although in general, the depth to which the pipes need to be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils it may be necessary to bury the pipes by 90-100 cm.
5. Next, the pipes are filled to a third of the height concrete mortar. The concrete is compacted to remove air bubbles. Support poles, most often wooden, are inserted inside the pipes and secured with concrete mortar.
6. The pillars are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be level relative to the corners.

The simplest option for a toilet foundation

For a lightweight wooden structure, simply install concrete blocks or bricks. The frame will be placed on them. This “foundation” is done like this: upper layer The soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and compacted tightly. A layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.

We are building a toilet frame

The frame of a country toilet is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes they take thicker timber (100 * 100 mm) or even thicker, but this is not advisable. You will also need metal corners. The frame consists of 4 load-bearing supports installed vertically. We also need lining for the roof of our building.

Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude beyond the body by a distance of about 40 cm. A canopy is formed in front, and a ledge in the back for draining rainwater.

We're sitting well

The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, while a seat that is too low will cause discomfort for tall family members. It is necessary to take into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located - 40 cm upward is set aside from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be sheathing on top of the trim (about 20 mm wide).

It should be taken into account

• The screed is at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The beams of this harness are installed in space against the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the toilet floor should be 40-45 cm.
• For the strength of the frame, diagonal jibs are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door consists of 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.

On a note

Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. They are easier to work with, but it will be uncomfortable in such a toilet. Wooden walls allow air to pass through, providing natural ventilation.

Toilet frame trim

The walls of the country toilet are sheathed wooden planks, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are fitted tightly and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, while top part The sheathing boards of the rear wall and side walls are carefully cut taking into account the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards back wall). There is usually a door in the back wall of the powder closet through which the waste container is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).

We cover the toilet roof with our own hands

The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either corrugated sheets, slate, or metal tiles. Wooden roof covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

The toilet roof is made so that there is a hole in it for ventilation pipe. The pipe should be sealed.

Making a toilet door

The door is made of wood and hung on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. The door is also equipped with a latch, hook or latch on the outside and inside. Usually done above the door small window so that light can enter it. Thrifty owners usually glass the window.

If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.

Seat: the most important thing

What to make the seat and toilet seat of the powder toilet from? These can be boards, lining, moisture-resistant plywood. It is best to stick to the wooden lining of the toilet seat frame; the boards must be painted, a hole must be cut, and an appropriate container that can hold 20-40 liters must be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat hinged, securing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.

Toilet with a barrel

From wind and rain

The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the correspondence of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must

Since at the stage of roof construction the building is still weakly secured, when working at height, just a ladder is not enough; additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced stepladder.

be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up the back wall. Careful owners also hem overhangs.

The roof in this design is covered with boards. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special load-bearing load on a small roof.

The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing felt.

It is not advisable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a covering greatly increases the wind load on the building.

Final check

An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontalness of the floor are checked.

• If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
• The base of the toilet should be carefully secured; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
• Be sure to check your work for any through holes inside, on the back of the roof and walls. These sharp tips on nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.

And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting out a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (with a hand saw, circular saw, jigsaw, etc.). The upper part of the niche is hemmed with a 25 mm board. The niche should be exactly in the center, 200-250 mm from the back wall of the toilet, and its dimensions should be at least 450 x 450 mm.

Summer residents decorate the “house” at their own discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is quite fragile. The simplest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative platband.

Reliable protection

Wood impregnation is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnations today is very large.

• The tree should be impregnated with an antiseptic, this will protect wooden parts from mold, fungi, organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
• All wooden parts should be protected from rotting. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy a structure in just two to three years.
• Fire-resistant coating is very important. A cigarette carelessly thrown away in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
• And another function of impregnating and painting a toilet is decorative.

Hanging the toilet door

You can make the door yourself or reuse an existing one. In any case, it also needs the application of protective impregnations. The door is installed on hinges that are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (solid oil, for example), which will protect metal parts from the appearance of rust.

Toilet lighting

Before the final finishing of the interior decoration of our house, we should take care of lighting. When conducting electrical installation work It must be taken into account that the toilet is a building with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following standards:

If there are children in the family

Let's say we use LED lamps with a voltage of 12 or 36 Volts. A voltage converter is installed at the beginning of the power supply line, and the switch will be built into the design of the lamp. If there are children in the family, then such safe lamp Can be installed at low height.

• There should be no more than five meters from the power line support to the toilet.
• The power cable is installed using a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; in this case, the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
• Grounding installation is required.
• Cable routing inside the building is carried out open method, its cross-section must be at least 0.75 square meters. mm.
• The lamp power should not exceed 40 W. Safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the lamp itself must be intended for use in rooms with high humidity.
• The light switch should not be located inside the toilet. It is installed on a special panel at the beginning of the power supply line. This may be a distribution panel, or the switch can be installed inside a permanent building.

Mounting the seat

First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars measuring 30 * 60 mm, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.

The niche opposite the cesspool should remain free - this will allow the barrel to be cleaned in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.

The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is covered with a rectangle the right size. Secure it with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the podium - mark a strip of sheet material that will go around vertical racks wall frame. They cut out a rectangular part, and then mark the grooves, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.

On the top part we install a toilet seat, closed with a lid.

For aesthetics, so that the interior space of the podium is hidden from view, install a simple device inside - a plastic box without a bottom or lid.

Interior decoration of a country toilet

If you used to build a toilet quality materials, the inside of the toilet does not need to be painted. It is enough just to etch the boards with a protective coating.

The floor and podium are painted with weather-resistant dyes.

Building door and external walls However, it is better to protect it by painting. The surfaces are first cleaned of old paint, if any, and sanded.

DIY backlash closet

How to organize a sewer system

You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. This depends on the characteristics of each individual summer cottage. With pressure sewerage, waste is supplied using special fecal pumps; with gravity sewerage, it leaves by gravity.

When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to maintain the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.

On a note

Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, the liquid drains faster, solid waste are delayed and the pipes become clogged. Also, the flow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.

Pressure sewerage is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This could be when, for example, that By the way

Drainage slope

For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of slope adopted in the construction literature is unusual for them - these are decimal fractions of the form 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the height of descent to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm by 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give the total height of the slope along its entire length.

Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures and are easy to install) are assembled starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special inspection pipes are required. The joint between a polypropylene pipe and a cast iron pipe is made using a rubber cuff.

When installing pressure sewerage, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.

The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the soil freezing level. Pipes for external sewerage are made of cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if they are laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.

When installing a toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. The toilet outlet is placed on the cuff with a seal, and the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.

On a note

If necessary, it is better to place 2 elbows at 45° than one at 90°. This way the flow of drains will not slow down.

The toilet is located below ground level.

Here it is necessary fecal pump. Purchasing one is not a problem; summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.

The final chord: what to do with the “good” from the toilet

Dacha sewer system divided into two types

Hermetically sealed cesspool

Such a pit is reliably isolated, and it does not pose an environmental hazard. Sewage with a cesspool requires regular cleaning as the tank fills. This should be taken into account when choosing a place to place it: a sewage disposal truck should freely approach such a pit. A cesspool is undesirable if groundwater lies at a distance closer than 3.5 m from the surface. It should be located no closer than 30 m from the nearest well. And, preferably, no closer than 15 m from the country house. The walls of the cesspool should not allow water to pass through. To do this, it is concreted or filled with cement mortar. If the depth of the hole depends on the groundwater level, then the width is not limited.

Septic tank – wastewater treatment system

Such a system collects all waste from summer residents into a special tank called a sump. It provides mechanical cleaning. Modern devices are equipped with a biofilter. Purified water is discharged to a place remote from the dacha area. A septic tank is used to bring waste products to an environmentally safe state. There are two types of septic tank: storage and purification. A storage septic tank requires periodic cleaning. It is equipped with fill level sensors. A storage septic tank is purchased based on the volume required for the family. The volume is calculated from the daily water consumption at the dacha. One person consumes from 50 to 250 liters per day. It is better to purchase a storage septic tank “with a reserve”. You should also take into account the material of manufacture and the thickness of the walls, since the septic tank is buried in the ground. A cleaning septic tank consists of several chambers where waste is completely cleaned.

Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders

Even if in your life you have never built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and shower in your summer cottage.

STEP 1. cesspool

It is better to seal the walls of the cesspool by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.

1. First, we clear the construction site of roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
2. The earth should not crumble into the hole and clutter the construction area. We take the fertile layer on a garden wheelbarrow to the garden, and the clay away from our plot.
3. We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets of slate measuring 1 * 2 m and cut them with a grinder to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and secure them in the hole using reinforcement corners. For this purpose, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
4. The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed using reinforcement rods. We lay the rods in the cracks, then lay sheets of roofing felt for waterproofing, then fill in the cement mortar.
5. We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the hole: this way the earth will be sealed from impurities.
6. For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, and we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.

STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION

It is economical to combine a shower and toilet for a summer house in one building. The parameters of such a building are: width one and a half meters, length 3 meters, height 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will have an area of ​​1.5 by 1.5 m. However, for a family of three people, a building area of ​​1.2 for a shower and toilet is enough * 1.2 m.

On a note

It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden blocks before pouring the solution.

1. The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be columnar, light, and 80 cm deep.
2. We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the location of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also place pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
3. Check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spaces between the stakes, all angles should be 90°.
4. To drill holes, it is best to use a garden drill with an auger with a diameter of 13 cm. We make 16 holes. We equip each pit with wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using a building level, we level the formwork horizontally.
5. We insert three reinforcing rods into each hole, which are fastened together with wire - this way the foundation will be reliable. We place rolled up roofing material at the bottom of the hole so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
6. We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Fine crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1: 3: 5. We level the solution onto the formwork.
7. We place a metal pin with a diameter of about 10 mm in the center of each hole. We deepen the stud by 12 cm so that 8 cm remains above the cement level.
8. While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for constructing the frame.

STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME

We will need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it is time to remove the formwork and make the lower frame of the foundation.

1. Using a chainsaw, we cut off the beams along the length of the sides of the future building and connect them together in half a tree. That is, 5 cm of the thickness of the beam is cut out on each side, and so the beams are connected to each other according to the principle of a puzzle.
2. We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will go.
3. We lay the ceiling, securing it with a washer and nut with a spanner.
4. Don’t forget to lay roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
5. The lower frame is ready: the beams lie on the posts, fastened with studs and nuts. After this, the wooden beams of the strapping are coated with a protective compound against external influences.
6. Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat) two metal channels are laid for strength.
7. Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with planks and protected with moisture-proofing material. In the future, the drainage machine hose can be inserted by removing several boards.
8. We begin to install vertical pillars. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation at the building level.
9. We connect the vertical pillars of the frame with bottom trim using metal plates and corners for fastening. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long-length self-tapping screws.
10. We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door at a height of two meters we strengthen the spacer horizontally. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. We also secure these pillars using spacers secured with long self-tapping screws. When the pillars are installed, you need to make the top trim: the timber is also connected halfway across the tree.
11. The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent wood rotting.

It doesn’t matter the purpose - be it a summer house, garden or residential - no one has canceled natural needs. And the first thing that needs to be installed on it is a restroom, even if you are not supposed to live on the site. Of course, at first glance it may seem that this is quite simple work, but upon closer examination of the issue, one can understand that there are quite a lot of nuances in it that should be paid attention to. That’s why we’ll now figure out how to arrange a dacha with our own hands. Step-by-step instructions should help with this.

Read in the article

Basic rules on how to make a toilet in the country with your own hands, without turning to specialists for help

The first thing you need to do is decide what kind of restroom you want. This question does not relate to the choice of structure, but to the reservoir into which waste products will fall. This depends on many parameters.

For example, very important aspect is the depth of groundwater. After all, the site usually does not have a centralized one, which means that the much-needed liquid will be taken from the well. You can imagine what will happen if sewage gets into this water. Is this necessary? Naturally not. Indeed, in addition to health problems, there is also the danger of fines from sanitary and epidemiological supervision. This, of course, is not as life-threatening as drinking contaminated water, but it is at least unpleasant.

The same applies to soil containing shale. That is why it makes sense to clarify all such nuances in advance. And if it turns out that such a problem exists, then you will have to install a sealed box (usually made of sheet iron of at least 3 mm or plastic) in the cesspool. In this case, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of pumping out sewage.

As for the shape of the building itself, here it is garden toilets for a dacha can be completely varied - everything is limited only by the imagination and capabilities of the master.

What sanitary and epidemiological norms and rules do you need to know when installing a country toilet?

Particular attention should be paid to the already mentioned depth of groundwater. It is important that at the installation site it is more than 3.5 m, and during spring floods. Otherwise, only a sealed container will save you. Of course, there are some secrets for such cases, but their implementation will be more financially expensive. We'll talk about this a little later.

It is also worth paying attention to the location of the restroom. According to SanPiN, the distance to a neighboring house should be at least 12 m, and to a well, if there is one, more than 8 m. Moreover, it does not matter whether special solutions are used for disinfection. Even if it is a chemical toilet (why people call it a dry closet is unclear). This rule must be strictly followed. Otherwise, there is a risk of communicating with neighbors in court. After all, it usually happens that among the summer residents living nearby, there will definitely be a “guardian of the laws.”

Important tip! In order to avoid future problems associated with the location of the country toilet, it makes sense to coordinate it with the local sanitary and epidemiological supervision authorities and confirm the installation location on the map. This kind of paper can be very useful.

A restroom inside the house or attached to it - features of such an arrangement

If you plan to live on the property all year round, then it makes sense to make a toilet in the house. At the dacha, of course, this will not be a problem at all, but in the absence of it, work will increase a little. In this case, it is better to arrange the restroom not indoors, but in the form. With this arrangement, having previously insulated the toilet stall, visiting this “institution” in winter will be quite comfortable.

And yet, if you want to place a toilet inside the house, but there is no centralized sewage system, then with a little effort this can be brought to life. This option will be especially successful for owners of small plots. Let us examine in detail how the work will be carried out.

First, you need to dig a hole in the area in which you need to place a sealed steel or plastic tank. It is important to understand that the container for collecting sewage will have to be lined to prevent soil pressure on it. There should be 3 pipes coming out of the tank. One of them is at the end, located in the upper part - through it, sewage will flow from the home toilet into the box. The second, the length of which must be at least three meters, must come out from above - it will be natural ventilation. Well, the third is also output from above, but in the tank it comes almost from the very bottom. Through this pipeline, waste products will be pumped out using a special sewer truck. There is usually a hatch on top that must close tightly.

Well, when this work is completed, all that remains is to install a sewer pipe from the house to the reservoir. The main thing to remember is that the toilet installed in the toilet at home should be installed higher drain pipe on the container.

A toilet attached to a house is essentially built identically, with the only difference being that there is no need to install sewer pipes, because... it will be located at the edge of the cesspool. Although, if you want to move the sewage tank further from the house, you can use the option with a main line.

As you can understand, installing a country toilet inside a residential building, although labor-intensive, is a completely do-it-yourself process.

Related article:

The article talks about how to do it. The description of the construction requirements is supplemented by reviews of effective technologies and ready-made models with characteristics and prices. This information will help you implement the project quickly and at reasonable costs.

A regular cesspool or how to install a toilet for a summer house on the street with your own hands

If the depth at which the groundwater is located allows the device to be used conventionally, do not sealed pit for a toilet (i.e. more than 3.5 m), then the amount of work is significantly reduced. Many people strengthen the excavated recess with spacers in order to prevent the soil from collapsing, but usually a beam is simply laid on it, which serves as a support for the wooden cabin. This is the most convenient and easiest way to build an outdoor toilet with your own hands.

Standards for the location of the toilet on the site, established by the Center for Sanitary and Epidemiological Sanitation

You should not ignore the standards established by SanPiN, because they are based on research and are aimed only at maintaining public health. The best option to find out where to place the toilet on the site is not only to make your own calculations, but also to apply for a certificate from the sanitary and epidemiological service.

What depth should a cesspool for a toilet in a country house have - are there any restrictions?

There are no strict restrictions on depth. The main thing is that the pit for the country toilet, or rather its bottom, should be higher than the level at which groundwater is located during the spring flood. Otherwise, sewage effluents may end up in drinking water, which threatens severe food poisoning, even death.

How to make a toilet in the country comfortable and warm

Naturally, a person always strives for comfort. Therefore, a restroom located on the street must be properly insulated. A good solution for this could be polystyrene foam, or in other words. This is a lightweight material that retains heat very well, and if you cover the outside of the building with it correctly, a 100 W incandescent lamp will be sufficient for heating inside.

Before building a toilet in the country, you need to decide whether only the outer wall will be made, or whether there will be a layer of penoplex on the inside, which is preferable. With the second option, you need to consider a slightly larger structure, taking into account the thickness. Also, before building a country toilet, you should take care of the safe supply of electricity to it.

It is also important which one will lead to the restroom - after all, in any case, it is not very pleasant to walk through the mud at night to a latrine, which, according to the rules, is located in the distance. Of course, all of the above does not apply to toilets built in the house - naturally it will be both warm and clean. But covering a restroom attached to the house with thermal insulation is also worth doing. In general, at the dacha, the construction of a toilet is gaining momentum, which is not surprising. After all, it is simply impossible to do without it.

The importance of drawing up drawings for a country toilet with your own hands

Although the restroom on a summer cottage is a small building, it is very important to first draw up a drawing with all the dimensions, according to which the structure will subsequently be assembled.

Important tip! The plan should be drawn up as carefully as possible, taking into account the area, so that the use of the much-needed building is as comfortable as possible.

Firstly, you don’t need to make your own wooden country toilet low. Inside is an adult man standing in full height, should not touch the ceiling with your head. Agree, it’s not very convenient to go into the restroom bent over. This rule applies not only to the ceiling, but also to the front door. Typically, the ceiling height is about half a meter higher than the upper level of the door, which, in turn, is 1.7-1.8 m high. Someone will say that such an entrance will be somewhat high, but this is only at first glance. In general, it will be optimal (maybe a little narrower). Isn’t it convenient to walk through such an opening? The same should apply to the restroom.

Secondly, a wooden toilet for a dacha should be made strong - you should not save material on this construction. After all, even if the sewage is not pumped out with a special machine, and the cesspool is simply planned to be filled with earth and the toilet is moved to another place, it will be more convenient to move a strong building than to dismantle a flimsy one and mount it on another. In addition, its appearance should be aesthetic - after all, no one wants an unsightly building to spoil the appearance of the yard. This is especially true if you have a garden. It’s not very pleasant when, in the midst of the beauty of flowering trees and bushes, a sloppy, rickety latrine structure suddenly appears.

A wooden toilet for a dacha can have either a gable roof or a single-pitch roof - it’s whatever you like. It is during the construction of a restroom that you can practice the skills of a builder and designer. Of course, if the roof slope diverges in different directions, with a ridge in the middle, the building will look much more attractive. Shed roofs are well suited for restrooms that are attached to the house. In this case, it will look natural, forming a single whole with the house. The roof of the restroom can be covered with a profile sheet, ordinary tin, slate or tiles. The main thing you should not forget about is roof waterproofing. It's not very nice when it drips down your collar rainwater. It is also necessary to lay a layer of foam film between the ceiling wood and the roofing felt. After all, the main heat rises upward, and it is needed there more than anywhere else.

The size should be determined based on personal preferences and the functionality that the wooden toilet for the dacha will have. You can build a washbasin and place a sink in it with your own hands. In this case, the internal area of ​​the restroom needs to be made larger. Depending on the size of the pit, if it is large enough and has the ability to pump out sewage, you can even run a water supply for a washbasin into the toilet. The main thing when carrying out such work is to insulate the pipes to prevent the possibility of water freezing in them in winter. Fortunately, these days, such work does not require skills. welding work, and making plumbing using plastic is not difficult and does not require any special skills. Even an amateur can cope with it (with the right approach, of course).

In general, building a wooden toilet with your own hands requires a careful approach, accuracy and compliance with various rules and regulations. Although such work is difficult, it is more in the mental and creative plane than in the physical. If you think everything through correctly, then it will be much easier to bring this to life than to build a clumsy, ugly restroom on the site without any kind of drawings. That is why you should not waste time on preparatory work. Otherwise, you can lose much more of it at the construction stage.

Renting an odorless dry closet for a summer residence – myths and reality

If you don’t have the time or desire to install a proper toilet in your summer cottage, these days there are other opportunities to arrange your life. Now there are many companies that are engaged in removing waste products from cesspools. And most of them offer serviced toilet stalls for rent. What are they, these mobile restrooms? Let's try to figure it out.

In appearance it looks like a plastic telephone booth. At the base, under the floor, there is a reservoir for sewage. Inside there is some kind of toilet with a seat. Actually, if the toilet is planned to be used only in summer time, this is a good option that does not require effort during installation. In addition, when registering a lease, the company also enters into a service agreement at certain intervals. It consists in the fact that on days specified in the contract, company employees will arrive in a special car, pump out sewage and flush the tank. After this, a certain amount of a special chemical solution will be poured into it, which kills bacteria that multiply in waste products and also prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

dry closet

The main myth lies precisely in the name - because. the liquid is a chemical solution, the prefix “bio” does not fit in with such a toilet. Of course, there are also biological fillers for tanks, but their use by companies is unprofitable due to their high cost and a short period of validity of the “live” solution in the drainage pit.

The following latrine device can be called a dry toilet. Under the seat there is a bucket into which dry peat is periodically poured. When the bucket is full, the contents are dumped into a compost pit, where the sewage continues to break down into various substances for some time. In the end it turns out very good fertilizer for the garden or vegetable garden. Well, chemical liquid for toilets in the country does not have similar properties and requires specialized processing. That is why it would be more correct to call such latrines chemical toilets.

Liquid compositions can be divided into 3 categories:

1. Formaldehyde- very effective, but at the same time very toxic solutions. They clean and disinfect the tank perfectly, but the toxic substances released by such a liquid do not allow the use of chemical toilets in the stalls, because has a very harmful effect on the human body.
2. Ammonium based– such liquids are most suitable for such toilets. Their properties are closer to biological ones, i.e. do not decompose waste, but accelerate the processes of their natural decomposition, and also effectively disinfect the container.
3. Biological fluids– the principle of their operation is based on the work of living bacteria, which come into contact with the environment in sewage and decompose it into natural components. The main inconvenience in using such solutions is the short lifespan of bacteria. The fluid must be changed or topped up frequently.

It is precisely because of the toxic effect that formaldehyde liquid is not applicable for toilets in the country, and therefore it is best to opt for an ammonium solution.

Liquids and fillers for dry toilets

Related article:

An excellent alternative to sewerage is mobile toilets. In this article we will look at existing device models, average prices, reviews and some recommendations that will help you make the right choice.

An alternative do-it-yourself summer toilet made from corrugated sheets

In cases where there is no time to build a thorough toilet and, moreover, it is intended to be used only in the summer, the option of making a country toilet cubicle from corrugated sheets may well be suitable. In this case, it will only be necessary to assemble a frame from wooden beam or weld it from metal. You need to understand that the floor of such a restroom will still have to be done, because the walls and roof themselves are not a toilet stall. Therefore, it is necessary to decide what material it will be made of.

Important tip! The restroom floors must be ready before the wall paneling begins, because... otherwise, their installation will become quite problematic. Also, do not forget that the frame of a building is not only the wooden or metal edges of a rectangle. They also need to be connected with diagonal cross members to give the future restroom the required rigidity.

A country toilet made of corrugated sheets is the simplest and relatively inexpensive structure, and therefore a similar type is common in gardens and orchards where people do not live, but come periodically. For example, for planting seeds, weeding or harvesting.

How to properly build a toilet for a summer house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

In this chapter, we will try to summarize all the information received into one whole, so that installing a garden toilet with your own hands according to a drawing does not turn into a long-term construction project. There is also a need for a photo report of such work to more clearly explain the algorithm of actions. Of course, someone may say that this is completely useless and that everything is clear without a photo, but still, illustrated instructions on how to build a toilet with your own hands in a country house, in a garden or on a personal yard will certainly be more understandable.

But first, let’s summarize the material received on the norms and rules for installing a restroom on a personal plot.

Drawing up drawings with the dimensions of country toilets with your own hands

The most important thing in building a restroom on a personal plot is drawing up a detailed, dimensional drawing, which will take into account everything related to the structure. It is advisable to indicate in it the material of manufacture, the depth at which groundwater flows, and everything else that concerns the general design of the device (depth of the pit, its ventilation and pumping system). A separate drawing must indicate the structure itself with exact dimensions of width, length and height.

Of course, you can do all the work without such a diagram, but it should be taken into account that a drawing of a toilet in a country house with dimensions can be useful not only for the construction of the structure, but also for coordinating the location and other standards with the sanitary and epidemiological service. After their permission and approval of such a scheme, it can become proof that everything was done according to the rules and regulations of the law, even in court, if one of the neighbors does not like the toilet.

The size of a toilet in a dacha with your own hands can be different and depend only on the owner himself and his preferences. Inside you can place a washbasin, sink and even a shower, dividing the room with a wall. But this will require a major sealed container with the ability to pump out sewage, as well as the installation of a water supply system. Although, a metal or plastic barrel on the roof, which it is advisable to paint black, can also play its role. This way the water in it will heat up faster from the sun. For example, a 200 liter container on a sunny day heats up to a comfortable temperature in 3-4 hours.

How to properly dig a hole for a toilet in the country with your own hands - norms and rules

Before starting such work, you need to find out the depth of the so-called. water horizon. The basic rule is that the bottom of the toilet pit should not be at a level lower than the groundwater flow. This is fraught not only with fines from sanitary and epidemiological supervision, but also big problems with health. The width is usually made according to the dimensions of the building, of course, provided that we're talking about about an ordinary street toilet. If sewage is discharged through a sewer pipe, then there are no restrictions on this parameter. Well, what if in simple words, then everything should be in moderation. After all, it would be completely inappropriate to dig a hole for a toilet in the dacha that is as deep and wide as the floor of the garden.

Important tip! Having drawn up a detailed drawing, it is better to show it to the employees of the sanitary and epidemiological service before digging a hole for a toilet in the country. Otherwise, a situation may arise in which you will have to change the location of the toilet and do double work, again digging a hole under the sewage.

Photo report on how to build a country toilet step by step - stages of work

Let's try to explain what steps you need to perform to install a wooden toilet with your own hands step by step photo instructions.

Work stage	Description of required actions
Drawing up a detailed dimensional drawing	A drawing is drawn up, i.e. a detailed plan diagram indicating the location, depth and communications of the latrine pit, the dimensions of the toilet structure, etc. It is better to have the layout and depth diagram certified by the sanitary and epidemiological supervision authorities in order to avoid troubles in the future.
Digging a hole and installing a caisson (tank) and ventilation	Having marked the required area, a pit is dug for sewage. Such work can be either manual or mechanized, using special equipment
Frame for pit toilet floor and its installation

Wherever a person lives, he tries to make his habitat as comfortable as possible. Therefore, the first structure built on a summer cottage is a toilet. It is difficult to live even one day without this building outside the city. To build it, you can hire specialists or do the work yourself. But even if you decide to make a toilet in your country house with your own hands, you cannot do without theoretical knowledge. So we’ll find out what needs to be done to build this much-needed structure.

Where should the structure be located?

Before building a toilet, a location for its construction is determined. The distance of the toilet from other buildings depends on its design. More precisely, whether it will be a building with or without a cesspool.

Which type of toilet to choose is decided not only by preference, but also by the location of groundwater. If they are located above the 2.5 meter mark, the construction of a cesspool is prohibited. In such cases, a powder closet is built.

When choosing a place to build, do not forget that this is a place of solitude. Therefore, it is advisable to give him a corner away from buildings.

When constructing a toilet with a cesspool, follow sanitary standards for such structures. The toilet should be located no closer than 12 meters to residential buildings. The distance from it to the water source is at least 20 meters. To avoid misunderstandings with neighbors, we are building a toilet in the country, one and a half meters away from the fence.

When planning the construction of a country toilet with a cesspool, think about how a sewer truck will subsequently approach it. The length of the sewage pumping hose is only 7 meters. Moreover, 3 of them will be located in the pit.

Also consider the landscape of the site. a toilet built in a low-lying area will fill quickly during the rainy season and spring snowmelt. And the building on a hill is blown from all sides by the wind.

Types of cesspools

Depending on the penetration of sewage into the ground, cesspools are available: with a filter bottom and sealed. Construction and operation of a sealed structure will cost more. This is not only due to consumables, but also with more frequent cleaning and calling a sewer truck. Waste in a pit with a filter bottom is less noticeable, but there is a possibility of contamination of the surrounding area. In addition, such structures are prohibited by sanitary standards.

You can build the walls of a cesspool from different materials. Depending on this they are:

• brick;
• plastic;
• from concrete rings;
• monolithic.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Laying out a brick hole

Option #1 - sealed design

Having decided on the site of construction of the toilet, the marked area is cleared. Dig a rectangular pit according to the required dimensions. The larger it is, the less often you will need to clean the toilet from sewage. Then compact the soil at the bottom. Pour a layer of sand (10-15 cm) and make concrete base. It wouldn't hurt to use reinforcement and filler, or crushed stone. After the concrete has hardened, the walls of the structure are laid out and plastered. For better sealing, they are treated with bitumen mastic. The walls of the cesspool are ten centimeters above the surface of the earth.

After laying the brick for the cesspool, the walls of the structure must be plastered and covered with bitumen mastic

Option #2 - design with a filter bottom

For such a cesspool, the bottom is not sealed. To do this, pour a layer of pebbles or coarse crushed stone on top of the sand. Thanks to this filter, liquid waste seeps into the ground. This reduces the total mass of sewage, which increases the time before cleaning the pit.

It is advisable to make cesspools with a filter bottom only in those places where the soil waters lie very deep.

Using plastic containers

Plastic barrels or Eurocubes can be used as waste storage for cesspools. They are buried in a hole under the toilet. For a sealed design, only the upper part of the container is cut off, where the waste will flow. For a non-sealed hole, cut out and Bottom part. In this case, a filter layer is poured onto the bottom of the cesspool.

To prevent soil from displacing plastic containers, they must be secured using weighted anchors.

Concrete ring design option

Now let's figure out how to install a toilet in the country using concrete rings. Due to the fact that reinforced concrete products can move during use, it is difficult to make such a structure airtight. Therefore, it is advisable to use it only in places with deep groundwater. Construction of a cesspool from reinforced concrete products is a labor-intensive process. To make it easier, special equipment is used.

Due to the large weight of concrete rings, special equipment will be required for their installation.

After selecting and clearing the site for construction, dig a hole according to the size of the ring. They lower the first ring and begin to dig up the earth from under its base. Thus, the rings gradually lower under their own weight. When there is enough space, install the second ring on the first. Thus, they continue to dig and install the required number of rings. At the bottom of the pit, either a concrete screed or a filter layer is made.

The top of the last installed concrete ring should protrude ten centimeters above the ground.

You will find step-by-step instructions for installing a cesspool made of concrete rings in our next material: .

Monolithic concrete structure for a toilet

For a cesspool from monolithic concrete, after digging a pit, the bottom is covered with a layer of sand. It is reinforced by going onto the walls. This will give the structure strength. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete and left until completely hardened. Then the formwork for the walls is installed and they are filled with concrete. After it hardens, formwork is done and the ceiling is poured.

Defects in concrete after removing the formwork must be repaired with cement-sand mortar

Construction of a toilet house over a cesspool

After preparing the cesspool, they begin to build a house above it. We invite you to figure out with us how to build a country toilet from wood.

The length of the structure is 20 centimeters greater than the width. For example, the width is 1 meter and the length is 1.2. Let the height be 2.1 meters. Next to the cesspool, a foundation is made according to the appropriate dimensions.

Between the foundation and wooden frame lay roofing felt for insulation

Waterproofing made of roofing felt is laid on top of it. From wooden block assemble the frame and screw it to the foundation.

Floorboards are laid on top of the frame and secured with self-tapping screws. The floor must be quite strong, so the thickness of the board should be at least 3 cm.

The timber frame must be treated with an antiseptic

The front and back frames of the toilet house are made from the block.

The front frame should be 10 cm higher than the rear one

Then they are fixed to the base, leveling them using a level. Strengthen the structure with transverse bars.

The cross bars under the roof should protrude 0.3 m in front and 0.16 m in the back

Then the frame for the pedestal is installed. Its height is 0.45 meters.

The height of the pedestal is made taking into account convenience

At the next stage, the frame of the house is sheathed. Imitation of timber is perfect for this. It has a convenient tongue-and-groove fastening. Sheathing of the structure begins from the bottom; the boards are secured with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. A window is cut out at the top of the door.

When securing the imitation timber, make sure that the groove is on top and the tenon is on the bottom. This method prevents moisture from entering the groove.

After this, the frame for the pedestal is sheathed. A hole is cut in the middle. Its size depends on the container that will be installed inside. The bottom of the container is cut out before fastening.

The size of the hole cut in the pedestal depends on the container that will be used

Then they make the roof of the house. First, the boards are fastened parallel to the front of the building at a short distance from each other.

Cross boards for the roof are attached starting from the front of the building

Then they sew up the visor above the door from below. Attach boards around the perimeter of the roof base.

Boards fixed around the perimeter of the roof base should form right angles

Now all that remains is to cover it with slate. At the next stage, the door is assembled and hung on its hinges. Platbands are stuffed on top.

Platbands cover the cracks and prevent the door from opening into the room

Then the entire structure is covered with a special impregnation that protects against moisture and pests, and then with paint or varnish. Handles and a hook or latch are attached outside and inside the structure.

From our next article you will learn how to build a country toilet with a shower:.

Toilet for a dacha, powder-closet type

Where groundwater is located close to the surface, building a toilet in a country house with a cesspool is prohibited. In this case, a powder closet is built. Unlike the previous version, this design does not have an underground waste receptacle in the form of a pit.

Therefore, the container inserted into the hole in the pedestal must have a bottom. It’s even better if there are two containers: one is slightly smaller than the other. Moreover, the smaller one should have small holes for liquid leakage. And in the larger side, a drainage hose is inserted to drain excess liquid.

There is no need to dig a cesspool for a powder closet. The waste is sprinkled with peat and then taken to the compost heap

The foundation of the building must be concreted. Before using the container, filler is poured onto its bottom. This could be peat or sawdust. After each visit to the toilet, a new portion of filler is poured on top. As the container fills, its contents are transferred to the compost heap.

Such toilets are only suitable for temporary use. For houses with permanent residence it is better to equip a septic tank or build a local treatment system.