In this article we will talk about a homemade spinning tube.
Why homemade? Yes, because if you find the one you need on sale, it’s usually either expensive, large in diameter, what’s also interesting is that they are all heavy.
It always amused me that some people say that 50mm doesn’t fit, I took 65mm, or even 100mm. Tube for spinning rod
For example, I can hardly imagine how to carry it with me when fishing. It’s good if the tube is in the car, but what if it’s not? Moreover, it is not safe to carry, for example, a UL-class spinning rod or another expensive one, not only because of the price, but also because it is an expensive working tool.
Moreover, sometimes even after getting out of the vehicle, you have to make your way to the reservoir through such jungle... And it would be interesting to see how, with a backpack and a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 1.5 m, someone would burst through the impassable jungle.
I will write how I make a spinning tube .
Material for tube the most simple thing you can't eat PVC pipe 2m long. and diameter 50mm.
I’ll say right away that the tube is made only for a specific spinning rod. So that there are no extra centimeters.
What do we need for this:
1 pvc pipe 200*50
2 hacksaw, or similar with fine teeth
3 thin black marker
4 line
5 material for covering the tube
6 leather, rivets, and related accessories
7 piece of foam rubber
These are the main necessary things - the dimensions of the material depend on the design and size of the tube.
We take the longest leg of the spinning rod (some saw the handle, and it turns out that the tip is longer than the butt), measure its length to a whole number, and preferably add another 4 cm. This is necessary so that under the spinning rod there is foam rubber 2 cm thick, and 1 or 1.5 cm is spent on the lid, and so that there is a little free space left, 0.5 or 1 cm in total.
I'll write it using my own example.
The length of the elbow is 110 cm, the length of the pipe is 113 cm, we measure and saw off, preferably straight away, since there will be no second chance - that’s why it is advisable to leave at least 4 cm. Because then, if suddenly, we’ll cut off 1 cm for alignment.
The side that was sawed off will be the bottom, since the top is needed even for the lid.
Then we insert the butt into the pipe and see how far it does not fit.
Then we make the pipe oval (bend it), and now we see that the first ring of the butt runs freely along the entire length of the future spinning tube
When we bend, we try to bend one edge so that the resulting profile resembles an egg. You also need to strictly ensure that the fold seam goes strictly in a straight line and does not resemble
At the bottom of the tube we make two holes from the edge with an awl, opposite each other in order to sew on the foam rubber. We cut it from a sponge for washing dishes, or whatever is at hand. The only thing is that it should not be hard. This means they inserted it into the tube, having previously cut out the outline of the tube. And they grabbed it with a couple of stitches. This completes the work with the pipe.
Next, we take the material for covering. The bottom is sewn in a straight line, and the longitudinal seam line should make an angle of 90 degrees. with a bottom seam. So that the resulting ears will then be threaded inside, and they will not interfere (mostly for aesthetics). The length of the fabric must be a minimum of 10 cm.
Since the diameter of the pipe is 50mm, we sew the cover up to 45mm.. It also depends on the fabric - some stretch, others are like tarpaulin, rigid and do not stretch. tube for spinning rod
The diameter of the cover is smaller so that the tube does not dangle in it, but is strictly covered with fabric (the fabric should not move from the punched holes from the needle), which will not toss and turn on it. Also keep in mind that there should be no more than 1cm from the edge of the seam. and at least 1 cm. The final seam must be stitched with very strong threads at least twice, and twice three seams at a width of 1 cm. Also keep in mind that when you pull it onto the pipe, there will be a seam inside, which takes away more diameter from what was left. When we have turned it out and pulled it out (straightened), we begin the long and tedious work of pulling it onto the pipe. This process is long and you need to be patient and watch the seam. It needs to be laid on one plane, and you need to make sure that it doesn’t twist, again aesthetics
When this is finished, we measure the remaining centimeters and leave about 5 cm, this is not critical, less is undesirable. Since if the seam comes loose, you will have to remove it and sew it up, which I think no one will want to go through this again
We left 5 cm and singe the edge (again depending on the fabric) with a match, the edge becomes harder and the fabric does not unravel. And we bend it inward. No need to glue it, it just doesn't make sense
I make it from leather, I take hard leather with a thickness of 4-5 mm, if you find something thicker, that’s fine. We cut out the top trim according to the profile of the tube, but by 3 mm. more on all sides. This is necessary so that the lid does not fall inside. Then we cut out two or three layers of leather according to the profile, but there was 1 or 1.5 mm more on all sides. The total depth of the cap that goes into the tube must be at least 1.5 cm.. Or better yet, 2 cm..
We rivet all the layers of leather, remembering to fold them into an egg shape. Before this, I put a small loop - it’s convenient to open, and it doesn’t get lost, since it’s tied.
Now the whole cover sharp knife we adjust it so that it fits into the tube, but so that it does not require much effort.
It is sewn by hand, and the diameter is slightly smaller than a covered tube. These straps do not stretch, and if the diameter is too small, it will not be possible to wear it. The width of the tape is 35-45 mm. It will be more convenient.
The handle and strap are made from the same tape. The belt is also sewn by hand and is adjustable in length, which is very convenient whether you want it under a backpack or to put it on a backpack comfortably.
This tube weighs 400 grams without a spinning rod (dry, so if it rains, the fabric will get wet and will be larger.)
Then, having measured everything and getting the remaining free space for the spinning rod, I achieved a length of 112.5 cm
At 5mm. free space for spinning.
If we have a heavy-class spinning rod, then we make this design. I think there is no need to describe it, everything is clear from the photo. Only those who fish in winter should use a plastic lock.
Some photos show the dimensions of the butt ring and the form itself.
In any case, even for a 3-meter spinning rod the weight finished product did not exceed 500 g
And for UL everything is 300 g
Also, the weight of the pipe is also different. I came across one pipe that was very heavy, and in the end I had to go through about 10 pieces until I came across a light one.
And it’s important that the spinning rod must be folded into the tube with the tulip facing the handle. And so that the rings lie in one line.
As a result, it is inexpensive, very practical, since the pipe does not even bend if you step on it (but this is not advisable), but in a crowded transport, or getting pinched in the doors of an elevator or bus, your favorite spinning rod is not in any danger.
For cartoon spins there are no problems at all; there is no need to adjust by millimeters.
For jerk spins, the handle is separate from the whip, the handle is in the backpack, and the whip is in a tube that is made under it.
The tube is of this type, short, and does not interfere with fishing at all.
Tube It is also adjustable with a strap, in height over the shoulder - when, for example, we stand in swamps, the end of the tube does not fall into the water.
The idea of a folding tube is also being finalized (I’m lazy) so as not to carry 1.5 (1.7 m.) m. pipe, with you - if the spin is 3-3.30 m long... And fold it in half - 80 cm. And either in a backpack, or over the shoulder. Moreover, if we stand for a long time at one point, we put it along with our things, and no problems.
The main requirement was the ability to not bend at the joint under load, which was achieved, but it turned out to be a little awkward to fold, but this is the basic option.
We fold it and put it in a drawstring case with fastenings for a strap.
I’ll also say a few words about the spinning rod cover itself. IN spinning tube fits in a case - the knees do not rattle and do not hit each other.
But some cases are hard, I don't use them. They are either too big, and the valve is healthy with all sorts of strings or Velcro - there is no point in it.
I sew the covers myself, from fabric that is thin, velvety, rolls over your fingers - and very beautiful.
A cover without a valve - the back is in a tube, but the cover is 3 cm longer than the back - this serves as an intermediate link between the lid.
And putting spinning in a tube in the soft case we can clearly feel how it fits in there. Easy or hard. And in a hard case we can break our UL and won’t even feel anything - we also need to pay attention to this.
And for those who ride bicycles, you can carry 2 or 3 pieces - tied to the frame, easy to remove, no need to untie - open the lid and take it out.
I was an eyewitness to an incident when in winter the happy owner of a new spinning rod, leaving the store, took a very steep turn down the steps, when he recovered from the shock, he took it to the workshop (it broke in 4 places).
So I I go shopping for a new spinning rod with a tube - guarantee of safety, especially in winter.
I think that the article will be useful to someone
It is convenient to store spinning and other fishing rods in a tube. Rod tube You can buy it, or you can make it yourself. may even be preferable, because an angler can make it specifically for his gear, taking into account a number of technical details that will not be available in standard store-bought tubes. Moreover, do DIY spinning tube– will not be difficult. I will now tell you how this is done.
There are many options for making a tube, but the most common is to use plastic sewer pipes or air ducts. A rod tube made from such pipes is durable, rigid, and quite light. The pipes themselves and their fittings and plugs, meanwhile, are very technologically advanced.
So, based on the number of rods and their dimensions, we select a pipe: length and diameter. The length of the pipe should be 5-10cm longer than the length of the rods. The diameter of the tube for the tube should be ± 5 mm larger than the maximum size of the rod (in the place of the first, largest ring).
In addition to the pipe itself, we will need: plugs for sewer pipes of suitable diameter, flat rope (sling), thin polymer foam, fittings, and universal glue.
When we have cut off the length of pipe we need, we cut off two more rings 3-4 cm wide.
And we make a cut in these rings.
In one of the covers we make two slits for the sling. This will be our removable cover.
Take the whole lid. We glue a circle of foam rubber seal into it. We put this lid on glue. This is a non-removable bottom of the tube.
Rings with slots will serve us to fasten the strap from the sling. There may be options here. The rings are glued to the pipe so that there is a gap where the sling can be passed.
It is best to close the lid and secure the sling through a fastener, such as on backpacks.
A simpler method can also be used. Make a loop at the end of the sling. Do not glue one edge of the ring and put this sling ring on it. The length of the strap can be changed using special fittings.
There is another option, more convenient and advanced - a tube with fabric covering.
Cut a strip of fabric from denim or other suitable thick fabric.
We sew handles from the same sling onto the fabric. You can also make a handle for carrying in your hand and sew on a strap for carrying the tube over your shoulder.
I think the idea of making a fishing tube with your own hands has occurred to, if not every second person, then certainly two out of three fishing enthusiasts. It looks simple: I bought a pipe, closed the bottom and covered it with fabric. Still, making a good thing with your own hands is priceless; for everything else there is Mastercard. In reality, everything turned out to be a little more complicated.
However, making a simple version of a tube for carrying fishing rods while fishing is really elementary and takes no more than one evening. The tube will perfectly fulfill its direct duties and will cost less than a pack of cigarettes.
But if you do it in such a way that not only the fishing rods get to the fishing spot safely, but also the eyes are happy, you will have to put a lot of effort into it. I even involved my wife in some of the work. Most of the tube cover was made by her. So if you don't know which way to approach sewing machine, limit yourself to the first option or contact my wife (just kidding).
But first things first. To make a simple version of a fishing tube, you need a polypropylene sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 millimeters, two plugs and a coupling. We cut off the beads from sealing rubber bands from pipe and coupling (photo 2). For work I used a Dremel with two attachments (photo 3).
Next, we glue plugs from one end of the coupling and from the wide end of the pipe. (photos 4 and 5). We shorten the structure to the right size, and that’s it – the tube is ready. The coupling is used as a cover (photo 6, A). Here's a simple option. Cheap and cheerful.
To cover a fishing tube with fabric, you need it to have a constant diameter along its entire length, that is, have the shape of a cylinder (photo 6, B). A simple plug will do as a cover. (photo 7), but you will have to tinker with the bottom of the tube. The whole process is schematically depicted in photo 8.
I cut off the walls of the plug, taped it to a piece of pipe, which I also covered with tape from the inside. In the resulting container, I covered the walls at the bottom with a small layer of epoxy-soaked bandages (you can use fiberglass). After the resin had dried, I cut the pipe that acted as a cliche, and glued the resulting plug with walls made of bandages into the bottom of the tube (photo 9). She stood up like a glove. The protruding base was cut off with a Dremel.
There's just a little bit left to do: just sew a cover for the tube. Since the diameter of the pipe is 110 millimeters, multiplying it by the number π, that is, 3.14, we get the width of the piece of fabric 345.5 millimeters (I took 346 millimeters taking into account the thickness of the seam - it turned out perfect). We leave a margin of 1-2 centimeters for the longitudinal seam and, of course, a margin along the length. Blanks for the ends are made with a diameter the size of the plug plus 1 centimeter for the seam. A piece of fabric 150x50 centimeters was enough for me.
I cut out a circle of foam rubber on the bottom and lid of the tube so that the rods would not hit the hard polypropylene when immersed in the tube and during transport for fishing.
First, two slings with semicircular rings are sewn transversely onto the main workpiece for subsequent fastening of the belt (photo 10). All parts are basted with white threads so that they do not unravel when stitching, then the threads are removed. After the slings, the bottom is sewn in, then a zipper 30 centimeters long (photo 11). After this, a longitudinal seam is made along the entire length of the fabric and an end element is sewn in at the lid.
All this happened with control fittings on the tube (photo 12), the cover fit very hard, but in the end it sat down just like it was there. The final touch- sling belt (photo 13).
The result is a really beautiful and reliable fishing tube, which can easily accommodate three two-parters. A neighbor, a fishing enthusiast, has already asked him to make the same one. But I think this homemade fishing tube will be the last, I don’t want to strain my wife again. Next time I'll better buy store bought. Perhaps my experience will be useful to someone. Thank you for your attention!
Today, many fishermen are trying to make a spinning rod tube with their own hands at home. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy it in a fishing store, and it is not always possible to choose the right size. In addition, factory versions often have quite an impressive weight, which makes finding a good fishing spot a challenge.
In this article we will look in detail budget options production of tubes, we will give useful recommendations for beginner fishermen.
What elements does it consist of?
Tube - convenient and compact storage of fishing gear. Performs protective function during their transportation.
Consists of the following parts:
- The body is in the form of a cylinder. Often they are served by a lightweight but durable plastic pipe. Diameter varies. Depends on how many forms the tube is designed for.
- Shell. Made from strong fabric. Gently covers the entire surface of the product. In expensive purchased models The shell material is waterproof. Has a wide range of colors.
- Bottom. Lower part of the body. Equipped with soft material (full) for additional protection of gear during transportation.
- Lid. Its diameter is the same as the body. In other words, a stub. Sewn to the shell or inserted tightly into the cylinder for closure. For convenience, it is equipped with a lock and a snake.
- Short handle, long strap. Designed for carrying a tube.
- Additional compartments. These are sewn-on pockets that will be needed for separate storage of reels and fishing lures.
To prevent the tube from being too hard, its inner surface is lined with soft material, which prevents scratches on the gear during friction against the walls.
Purchased types of products
There are a lot of models of such fishing accessories. They all differ in length, number of additional compartments, diameter and external design. Based on these factors, the price of these goods is formed.
Products with a small diameter are used to transport one spinning rod or 2-3 fly fishing rods. Large diameter It is worth choosing in the case when several feeders and spinning rods will be transported simultaneously.
The length of the magazine tube can vary from 1.1 m to 1.8 m. In this regard, they are divided into 3 types:
- short (1.1–1.2 m) – for small spinning rods and fishing rods;
- medium (1.2–1.3 m) are suitable for Bolognese rods and pickers;
- long ones (from 1.45 m and above) are used for transporting carp fishing rods and three-part feeders.
According to hardness they are divided into 3 classes:
- hard;
- semi-rigid;
- soft.
But, despite the variety of purchasing options, choosing a good tube according to affordable price pretty hard. It is much easier and more practical to make it yourself. This will not require much expense. The manufacturing process is not complicated. So, even a beginner can cope here.
How to create a tube for a spinning rod yourself
Plus self-assembly The point is that the fisherman can add a section for a reel, additional gear of any size, and secure the handle in the place where he wants. Considering the fact that spinners are accustomed to transporting gear separately from reels, the tube will be assembled without pockets, and the reels will already be folded separately.
The photo clearly shows the ordinary assembly of a simple tube. Moreover, the diameters are selected differently so that one or more spinning rods can be placed there.
Don't rush to buy materials. It’s better to first conduct a thorough inspection of the garage or utility room. Many unnecessary improvised means can become an indispensable part of a future product.
Preparation of materials and tools
We will need:
- sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, 50 mm;
- reduction from 100 to 50;
- 2 blanks for a tube cap (peel, a piece of thick leather);
- thin flexible insulation (a heat reflector for batteries is suitable);
- a belt from an old bag, backpack or thick fabric in the form of a ribbon;
- construction tape;
- material for decoration;
- grinder with a metal disc (an alternative is a hacksaw);
- marker;
- pencil;
- polyurethane foam, epoxy resin (optional);
- screws.
The size of all spinning rods is measured to find the longest composite half. On top of that size, it is better to take another reserve of 5 - 10 cm. The resulting figure is the length of the future tube.
Assembly
The size of all spinning rods is measured to find the longest composite half. On top of that size, it is better to take another reserve of 5 - 10 cm. The resulting figure is the length of the future tube.
The sequence of work is as follows:
A pipe 1.5 m or 2 m long is taken and measured with a tape measure. The required size is marked with a marker.
- The pipe is cut in a circle with a grinder.
- Now you need to outside make a pipe edge on the side where there was a cut in a circle. To do this, you need to walk along it with the smooth side of the grinder disk and slowly scroll the pipe.
- After cutting the pipe on one side, the cover sits on polyurethane foam or with epoxy glue. This is the bottom.
- It is important that the tube caps are inside soft. To do this, place a sponge, foam rubber, or piece of foam plastic (optional) on the glue.
- On the other hand, the lid is removable. Since the factory seal on the pipe is very thick, you can make a homemade one.
- Place electrical tape or adhesive tape inside the pipe in a circle to tightly close the lid but allow it to be easily removed.
Fastening the belt
To position the belt, use a marker to mark two symmetrical, parallel points on the pipe.
There are several mounting methods:
- Screw the screws through the belt and seat them on epoxy resin for longer service.
- Fix the belt with superglue in the places marked with a marker for ease of use. Then a thread or rope no thicker than 0.6 mm is wound around the pipe with a belt grip. Impregnated with superglue or epoxy (which is available).
- The third method is even simpler. The belt itself is wrapped around the tube. They are fastened together, you can use rivets or make a seam. The main thing is that the belt is very tight, otherwise it will ride on the tube.
The photo clearly shows how to fix the belt on the tube using the third method.
- paint;
- cover with a fabric cover;
- insert soft insulation inside not only along the cylinder, but also under the bottom, on top of the two covers;
- make stripes from bright threads.
This is a budget-friendly way to create convenient storage for spinning rods and their transportation.
Exactly the same tube can be assembled from a ventilation square pipe, from the cover of a roll of expensive wallpaper that was left over after renovation. Last option will cost the least, but it will have to be waterproofed.
Sew a fabric cover
It is better that the cover is 2-3 mm less than the length of the tube - this way the fabric will fit well and stretch along the entire length of the tube.
After taking measurements, a pattern for the future cover is prepared. Marked on the fabric with chalk the right places cuts, stitches.
First stitched Bottom part with compacted threads along the marked straight line. After which a side seam is applied - it goes at a right angle to the bottom.
If desired, the finished case is equipped with pockets for bait. They are sewn on top or made removable and secured with Velcro. To close, a snake and buttons (optional) are sewn in.
The difference between a tube for feeder and regular fishing rods with reels and spinning rods
It consists in the fact that it has an insert for reels and floats, so that it is convenient for the angler not to remove it from the rod every time. This means, without wasting time, just insert or put down the entire equipment.
Let's take a closer look at how to cut an insert in a tube, make closed part coils.
We make an additional compartment for floats and reels
For simple rods with a reel from 1000 to 2000 according to classification, if a compartment is needed, it is small. But a reel feeder for 2500 kl-diva or shimano needs a lot of space for the so-called meat grinders.
We carry out the work in this order:
- We cut out the groove in the tube.
- Here the assembly goes the other way around. Soft foam is fixed on the lid on the side where the tip of the spinning rod rests. The same cover is firmly fixed to the mounting foam.
- And from the side of the opening lid, a strip is cut out of the pipe, previously marked with a marker, in size from the beginning of the butt to the end of the reel holder. Thus, the coil remains open beyond the tube.
There are two ways to close the coil:
- Using rivets of special fittings, close the coil with a part of the pipe, separately cut in advance. Its pieces are cut in half, which will be like a lid on top of the coil.
- The second option is to put a fabric cover on top of the reel, which covers it from dust, dirt, scratches, but does not protect it from impacts. For ease of use, it can be equipped with a snake.
The first method is more labor-intensive and expensive, but in this case the coil is reliably protected. She is not afraid of falls or blows.
Making a tube for winter fishing with your own hands
Winter tackle is small, unlike summer fishing rods. Therefore, the tube for them is made in the same ways as listed earlier, but in reduced sizes.
In addition, there is a simpler method for creating a tube for winter gear.
The work order is as follows:
- Take two bottles. Suitable for volumes of 1,2,3 liters. It all depends on the size of the fishing rods.
- We make marks with a marker in a circle at a suitable distance from the bottom of the bottle. Let's cut it off.
- Next, two cuts are made on one of the bottles from the edge along the bottle, 5 cm each. This is enough so that at the entrance one side opposite the other narrows, forming a tube for winter fishing rods.
Advantage plastic material lies in its lightness, resistance to moisture, ease of use and transportation.
The low cost of raw materials allows you to create such fishing rod cases in unlimited quantities without any financial investments.
Assembling a tube at home is very easy and does not take much time or labor. Therefore, all the fisherman needs to know is the design of the future product, have suitable tool, materials and imagination.
I was always afraid of breaking the spinning rods when loading the car for the next trip.
I had to put them on top of all the luggage in the trunk. But their length is 150 cm even when folded and in the case.
As a result, you can’t put them in the car lengthwise (they don’t fit), but across them they stick out in the passenger compartment and get in the way.
We need a tube... Hard... And so that it can be mounted under the roof of the car on the handles above the passenger seats
With opposite side from the driver's seat.
The ready-made ones (available for sale) were not satisfactory in terms of design and price (expensive), so I decided to do it myself...
First I bought 2 linear meters Oxford fabrics, linden, slings...
A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 is only suitable for one spinning rod.
Diameter 110 is too big for me (there are only two spins available so far), they will dangle in it.
I need a diameter of 70-75, but it turns out that such a sewer pipe is difficult to purchase in Russia.
I searched for a long time and thought about what to use???
But... Once, while stopping at a service station to visit a friend who tinted car windows, I saw a pipe...
Or rather, a reel from a roll of film for tinting. I measured the diameter - HE: exactly 70 mm.
Took it... And before at this moment a friend threw these pipes away after using the film.
Now you have all the materials and you can start designing...
First of all, I cut out a soft plug to the size of the pipe for the end of the tube.
Inserted and glued...
And here is the solution - the bottom is off plastic bottle from under kefir the diameter fits perfectly...
I also inserted a soft pad there.
Now you need to decide on the size of the fabric cut for the cover.
I took the dimensions from the pipe with a tape measure:
Laying out the fabric on the floor, I noted the required dimensions:
I cut according to the marks.
I placed the zipper in place and began to sew... The result was a “stocking”, which was later turned inside out:
Now we need to make fabric plugs for the ends of the tube...
We mark circles on the fabric, applying a tube plus 2-3 cm..
Cut it out.
Then we glue it to the ends with superglue.
The tube itself for the spinning rod is ready...
But you need fasteners and carrying straps.
Using a machine we sew grips from linden onto a sling tube and a shoulder strap.
The result was:
Great for on-the-go carrying...
And also for mounting in a car:
Passengers are not disturbed, and gear is safe...
P.S. The article participates in the “homemade” competition.
After reading the article about making a “hard” spinning rod tube with your own hands,
if it is interesting and useful to you, do not forget to vote for the article...