Country toilet design - choose wisely
The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater in the area. If the groundwater is deep (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water does not rise above two meters from the surface of the earth even during heavy rains, any of the above types of toilets is possible. When groundwater levels are high, this is exactly what we usually have in areas middle zone– the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with cesspool unacceptable.
When groundwater stands above 2.5 m, the preferred option is a powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, waste does not fall into groundwater and are safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.
| Toilet type | Description |
| Classic "country" toilet with pit cesspool (1) | This is a cesspool one and a half meters deep, on top of which there is a corresponding “house”. Everything that falls into the pit accumulates there, gradually decomposing. Such a toilet is not suitable for a large family, since it will fill up too quickly and the sewage will not have time to ferment. The situation is resolved in two ways: either the toilet is moved to another place by burying a filled pit, or the cesspool is cleaned - manually or using a cesspool truck. |
| Powder closet (2) | Suitable for areas with high groundwater levels. There is no cesspool here. Its role is played by a sealed container installed under the seat. After each trip to the toilet, a new portion of sewage should be covered with peat, ash or sawdust. When the container is full, its contents are taken out to compost pit, sprinkling with peat. |
| Backlash closet (3) | This type of toilet is suitable for being in the home. This is a structure equipped with a sealed cesspool (next to the outer wall). It is cleaned using a sewer machine. Thus, the pit itself is located outside the house, and all waste enters it through a pipe. The pit should slope away from the house. |
| Dry toilet | This is the same booth that stands on city streets with a container that contains active microorganisms that process waste. Buy such a toilet - there are any sizes on sale, dry closets suitable for home and outdoor use. |
| Chemical | Essentially the same dry closet, but with a different waste processing technology. Chemicals are used - the contents of the toilet (unlike the dry closet) become unsuitable for use as fertilizer in beds and flower beds. |
| Peat toilet (4) | This is the same powder closet, only of a more modern design. Suitable for home use. This is just a toilet, in the tank, instead of water, there is dry peat, and the role of sewer pipes is played by a container for waste. The design provides ventilation - it is taken to the open air. |
Construction of a toilet in the country: according to the law and in harmony with the neighbors
There are clear standards for the placement of country houses outdoor toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, to any source of water (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.
The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.
On a note
When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your area: unpleasant odors should not bother the neighbors.
When your summer cottage is located slightly downhill, the toilet should be lower than the source clean water- this way waste will not get into the water.
Regarding the country house and neighbors’ buildings
- The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, and basements.
- From the building of a bathhouse, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
- From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - no less than 4 m.
- From trees and bushes - no less than a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.
Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet
Building a classic “village” toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, we will focus on a device of a more modern design - a powder closet.
Pros of powder closet:
- This design does not include a cesspool, which simplifies its construction. No need to dig a pit.
- A powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
- Groundwater is not polluted.
The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have precisely calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. Thus, the minimum width of the building must be at least 1.5 m, depth - at least a meter, height - 2.2 m. The dimensions can be large, but making them smaller is not advisable. Now it’s time to decide building material. Most often, country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, cover the walls with metal profiles or slate.
Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet
The toilet is a lightweight building that does not require a strong, solid foundation. It is often poured under the country toilet strip foundation– the base is poured only around the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is brought above the zero mark and filled with cement mortar. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing felt. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken brick. Layers of coarse sand and gravel are poured into the trench; each layer should be compacted and watered. At ground level, the foundation is filled with cement mortar. The base is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing felt. WITH outside the foundation needs to be covered.
But it is much easier to make the simplest foundation for a wooden toilet: either bury supports (concrete pillars, timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out along the perimeter of the building.
Operating procedure
- The first stage is marking the site for future construction. We accurately mark the corners of the future building.
- We bury supports as a foundation. We need four asbestos cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. The outside should be coated with bitumen mastic.
- Some types of soils do not have the necessary characteristics for construction: strength, slight compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually compress under load, clay soils swell, and forest-like soils can settle under the weight of the building in spring and autumn. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a number of drainage measures or replacement of unsuitable soil for construction. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and look at the composition of the soil. Most the best option for construction - if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
- 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug in the corners of the future building. The pipes are buried into the ground to this depth. Although in general, the depth to which the pipes need to be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils it may be necessary to bury the pipes by 90-100 cm.
- Next, the pipes are filled with concrete mortar to a third of the height. The concrete is compacted to remove air bubbles. Support poles, most often wooden, are inserted inside the pipes and secured with concrete mortar.
- The pillars are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be level relative to the corners.
The simplest option for a toilet foundation
For light wooden construction, it is enough to simply install concrete blocks or bricks. The frame will be placed on them. This “foundation” is done like this: upper layer The soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and compacted tightly. A layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.
We are building a toilet frame
Frame country toilet made from wooden beams with a cross section of 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes they take thicker timber (100 * 100 mm) or even thicker, but this is not advisable. You will also need metal corners. The frame consists of 4 load-bearing supports installed vertically. We also need lining for the roof of our building.
Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude beyond the body by a distance of about 40 cm. A canopy is formed in front, and a ledge in the back for draining rainwater.
We're sitting well
The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, while a seat that is too low will cause discomfort for tall family members. It is necessary to take into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located - 40 cm upward is set aside from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be sheathing on top of the trim (about 20 mm wide).
It should be taken into account
- The screed is at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The beams of this harness are installed in space against the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the toilet floor should be 40-45 cm.
- For the strength of the frame, diagonal jibs are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door consists of 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.
On a note
Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. They are easier to work with, but it will be uncomfortable in such a toilet. Wooden walls allow air to pass through it, providing natural ventilation.
Toilet frame trim
The walls of the country toilet are covered with wooden boards, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are fitted tightly and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, with the top of the back wall and side wall sheathing boards carefully cut to match the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards the rear wall). There is usually a door in the back wall of the powder closet through which the waste container is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).
We cover the toilet roof with our own hands
The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either corrugated sheets, slate, or metal tiles. Wooden roof covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.
The roof of the toilet is made so that there is a hole in it for the ventilation pipe. The pipe should be sealed.
Making a toilet door
The door is made of wood and hung on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. The door is also equipped with a latch, hook or latch on the outside and inside. Usually done above the door small window so that light can enter it. Thrifty owners usually glass the window.
If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.
Seat: the most important thing
What to make the seat and toilet seat of the powder toilet from? These can be boards, lining, moisture-resistant plywood. It's best to stop at wood paneling frame of the toilet seat, the boards must be painted, a hole must be cut and an appropriate container containing 20-40 liters must be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat hinged, securing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.
Toilet with a barrel
From wind and rain
The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the correspondence of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must
Since at the stage of roof construction the building is still weakly secured, when working at height, just a ladder is not enough; additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced stepladder.
be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up back wall. Careful owners also hem overhangs.
The roof in this design is covered with boards. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special load-bearing load on a small roof.
The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing felt.
It is not advisable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a covering greatly increases the wind load on the building.
Final check
An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontalness of the floor are checked.
- If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
- The base of the toilet should be carefully secured; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
- Be sure to check your work for any through holes inside, on the back of the roof and walls. These sharp tips on nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.
And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting out a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (with a hand saw, circular saw, jigsaw, etc.). Upper part niches are hemmed with 25 mm boards. The niche should be exactly in the center, 200-250 mm from the back wall of the toilet, and its dimensions should be at least 450 x 450 mm.
Summer residents decorate the “house” at their own discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is quite fragile. The simplest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative platband.
Reliable protection
Wood impregnation is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnations today is very large.
- The wood should be impregnated with an antiseptic; this will protect the wooden parts from mold, fungi, and organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
- All wooden parts should be protected from rotting. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy a structure in just two to three years.
- Fire-resistant coating is very important. A cigarette carelessly thrown away in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
- And another function of impregnating and painting a toilet is decorative.
Hanging the toilet door
You can make the door yourself or reuse an existing one. In any case, it also needs the application of protective impregnations. The door is installed on hinges that are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (solid oil, for example), which will protect metal parts from the appearance of rust.
Toilet lighting
Before final finishing interior decoration our house, you should take care of the lighting. When carrying out electrical installation work, it must be taken into account that the toilet is a building with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following standards:
If there are children in the family
Let's say we use LED lamps with a voltage of 12 or 36 Volts. A voltage converter is installed at the beginning of the power supply line, and the switch will be built into the design of the lamp. If there are children in the family, then such safe lamp Can be installed at low height.
- There should be no more than five meters from the power line support to the toilet.
- The power cable is installed using a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; in this case, the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
- Grounding installation is required.
- Inside the building, the cable is laid in an open way; its cross-section must be at least 0.75 square meters. mm.
- The lamp power should not exceed 40 W. Safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the lamp itself must be intended for use in rooms with high humidity.
- The light switch should not be located inside the toilet. It is installed on a special panel at the beginning of the power supply line. This may be a distribution panel, or the switch can be installed inside a permanent building.
Mounting the seat
First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars measuring 30 * 60 mm, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.
The niche opposite the cesspool should remain free - this will allow the barrel to be cleaned in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.
The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is closed using a rectangle of the required size. Secure it with self-tapping screws.
The upper part of the podium - mark a strip of sheet material that will go around the vertical posts of the wall frame. They cut out a rectangular part, and then mark the grooves, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.
On the top part we install a toilet seat, closed with a lid.
For aesthetics, so that the interior space of the podium is hidden from view, install a simple device inside - a plastic box without a bottom or lid.
Interior decoration of a country toilet
If high-quality materials were used to build the toilet, the inside of the toilet does not need to be painted. It is enough just to etch the boards with a protective coating.
The floor and podium are painted with weather-resistant dyes.
Building door and external walls However, it is better to protect it by painting. The surfaces are first cleaned of old paint, if any, and sanded.
DIY backlash closet
How to organize a sewer system
You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. This depends on the characteristics of each individual summer cottage. With pressure sewerage, waste is supplied using special fecal pumps; with gravity sewerage, it leaves by gravity.
When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to maintain the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.
On a note
Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, liquid leaks out faster, solid waste is retained, and the pipes become clogged. Also, the flow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.
Pressure sewerage is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This could be when, for example, that By the way
Drainage slope
For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of slope adopted in the construction literature is unusual for them - these are decimal fractions of the form 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the height of descent to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm by 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give the total height of the slope along its entire length.
Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures ah and easy to install) are assembled starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special inspection pipes are required. The joint between a polypropylene pipe and a cast iron pipe is made using a rubber cuff.
When installing pressure sewerage, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.
The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the soil freezing level. Pipes for external sewerage are made of cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if they are laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.
When installing a toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. The toilet outlet is placed on the cuff with a seal, and the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.
On a note
If necessary, it is better to place 2 elbows at 45° than one at 90°. This way the flow of drains will not slow down.
The toilet is located below ground level.
Here it is necessary fecal pump. Purchasing one is not a problem; summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.
The final chord: what to do with the “good” from the toilet
The country sewer system is divided into two types
| Hermetically sealed cesspool | Such a pit is reliably isolated, and it does not pose an environmental hazard. Sewage with a cesspool requires regular cleaning as the tank fills. This should be taken into account when choosing a place to place it: a sewage disposal truck should freely approach such a pit. A cesspool is undesirable if groundwater lies at a distance closer than 3.5 m from the surface. It should be located no closer than 30 m from the nearest well. And, preferably, no closer than 15 m from the country house. The walls of the cesspool should not allow water to pass through. To do this, it is concreted or filled with cement mortar. If the depth of the hole depends on the groundwater level, then the width is not limited. |
| Septic tank – wastewater treatment system | Such a system collects all waste from summer residents into a special tank called a sump. It provides mechanical cleaning. Modern devices are equipped with a biofilter. Purified water is discharged to a place remote from the dacha area. A septic tank is used to bring waste products to an environmentally safe state. There are two types of septic tank: storage and purification. A storage septic tank requires periodic cleaning. It is equipped with fill level sensors. A storage septic tank is purchased based on the volume required for the family. The volume is calculated from the daily water consumption per summer cottage. One person consumes from 50 to 250 liters per day. It is better to purchase a storage septic tank “with a reserve”. You should also take into account the material of manufacture and the thickness of the walls, since the septic tank is buried in the ground. A cleaning septic tank consists of several chambers where waste is completely cleaned. |
Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders
Even if in your life you have never built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and shower in your summer cottage.
STEP 1. cesspool
It is better to seal the walls of the cesspool by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.
- First, we clear the construction site of roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
- The earth should not crumble into the hole and clutter the construction area. Fertile layer on garden wheelbarrow we take it to the garden, the clay away from our plot.
- We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets of slate measuring 1 * 2 m and cut them with a grinder to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and secure them in the hole using reinforcement corners. For this purpose, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
- The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed using reinforcement rods. We lay the rods in the cracks, then lay sheets of roofing felt for waterproofing, then fill in the cement mortar.
- We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the hole: this way the earth will be sealed from impurities.
- For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, and we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.
STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION
It is economical to combine a shower and toilet for a summer house in one building. The parameters of such a building are: width one and a half meters, length 3 meters, height 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will have an area of 1.5 by 1.5 m. However, for a family of three people, a building area of 1.2 for a shower and toilet is enough * 1.2 m.
On a note
It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden blocks before pouring the solution.
- The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be columnar, light, and 80 cm deep.
- We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the location of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also place pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
- Check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spaces between the stakes, all angles should be 90°.
- To drill holes, it is best to use a garden drill with an auger with a diameter of 13 cm. We make 16 holes. We equip each pit with wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using a building level, we level the formwork horizontally.
- We insert three reinforcing rods into each hole, which are fastened together with wire - this way the foundation will be reliable. We place rolled up roofing material at the bottom of the hole so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
- We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Fine crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1: 3: 5. We level the solution onto the formwork.
- Place in the center of each hole metal pin about 10 mm in diameter. We deepen the stud by 12 cm so that 8 cm remains above the cement level.
- While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for constructing the frame.
STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME
We will need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it is time to remove the formwork and make the lower frame of the foundation.
- Using a chainsaw, we cut off the beams along the length of the sides of the future building and connect them together in half a tree. That is, 5 cm of the thickness of the beam is cut out on each side, and so the beams are connected to each other according to the principle of a puzzle.
- We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will go.
- We lay the ceiling, securing it with a washer and nut with a spanner.
- Don’t forget to lay roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
- The lower frame is ready: the beams lie on the posts, fastened with studs and nuts. After that wooden beams harnesses cover protective composition from external influences.
- Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat) two metal channels are laid for strength.
- Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with planks and protected with moisture-proofing material. In the future, the drainage machine hose can be inserted by removing several boards.
- We begin to install vertical pillars. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation at the building level.
- We connect the vertical pillars of the frame to the lower frame using metal plates and corners for fastening. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long-length self-tapping screws.
- We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door at a height of two meters we strengthen the horizontal spacer. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. We also secure these pillars using spacers secured with long self-tapping screws. When the pillars are installed, you need to make the top trim: the timber is also connected halfway across the tree.
- The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent wood rotting.
Country toilet
Characteristics of a bathroom using a container
One of the most successful design schemes for a cesspool for a toilet in a country house is one where a container without a bottom is installed in the pit. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to pump out the accumulated liquid, since it is absorbed into the soil. Due to the small amount of waste, they have time to penetrate into the ground. Moreover, their volume should not exceed 1 m 3 per day. If you neglect this recommendation, waste will accumulate in the cesspool from the container. This will lead to the formation of an unpleasant odor in the area.
This option for arranging a cesspool is not suitable for dachas where the groundwater level is high. In this case, all sewage will penetrate into the soil, where it will contaminate the drinking source.
That's why the best way out The solution to the current situation is to install a volumetric sealed barrel. It will act as a septic tank.
In this case, it is necessary to regularly pump out the liquid using special equipment. To avoid doing this too often, you need to install a large capacity container.
To reduce the size of the septic tank, in this case it is recommended to install a complex structure.
It involves installing two or even three containers where waste will accumulate. Moreover, the last of them can be made without a bottom.
In this case, it is necessary to additionally use aerobic or anaerobic strains of microorganisms. They are added to the first container, where they break down biological waste. As a result, solid particles settle to the bottom. The already purified liquid is transferred to the next container. It, passing through an additional filtration layer of sand, enters the soil without polluting it.
Also, when choosing a scheme for arranging a cesspool, you need to choose the right material from which the barrel will be made. It is best to use metal or plastic containers. Each of these types of materials has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account before the installation process.
Metal containers - advantages and disadvantages
Metal containers that you can install yourself have a number of significant disadvantages that directly affect the durability of the constructed structure. These include:
- low corrosion resistance of the material. After 3-4 years, such a container becomes unsuitable for use, since it is impossible to repair it;
- in most cases, this option for arranging a cesspool can be expensive. Metal containers are quite expensive;
- complexity of installation. If you use a large container with massive walls, it is quite difficult to install it without the help of special equipment;
- You can only use containers whose wall thickness reaches 15-16 mm. They are often very difficult to find.
The advantages of this material include their resistance to frequent temperature changes. It is not afraid of severe frosts when deep layers of soil freeze. Also, such a container is heavy, which will more securely fix it in the ground.
Plastic containers
When constructing a cesspool with your own hands, plastic is considered a better material than metal.
It has many advantages:
- long service life. Plastic can be used for arranging a cesspool for a toilet in a country house for 40 years;
- due to their light weight, these containers are very easy to install without the help of outsiders or special equipment;
- plastic is resistant to the harmful effects of biological fluids or special chemical compounds, which are used for waste processing;
- prevents wastewater from penetrating through the walls of the container into the soil;
- the cost of such a container is quite low;
- The plastic is very durable and will not collapse under pressure from soil or runoff.
The disadvantages of this material include its instability to low temperatures. To fix this, the plastic walls of the container must be insulated with a layer of mineral wool. Also, a plastic barrel can float due to its light weight.
To prevent this, its walls must be securely fixed in the ground.
How to choose the right place to install a bathroom?
When choosing a place to install a toilet with your own hands in the country, you must adhere to the following rules:
The first stage is the arrangement of a cesspool from a container
When constructing an outdoor toilet with your own hands from plastic barrel You must first dig a pit of suitable size. In this case, the use of a galvanized metal container is also allowed. But you need to take into account that it has a much shorter service life.
The pit for a toilet that you build yourself should have a depth that is 25-30 cm greater than the height of the container. This is necessary to create a filtration field, which will help clean the waste, and clean liquid without harmful impurities will be absorbed into the soil. Also, this pit should be 10-20 cm wider than the tank. This gap is needed to fix the tank inside the pit.
When the hole is dug, fill its bottom with a layer of fine crushed stone 20 cm thick. Lay sand on top by another 10-15 cm. In this case, each layer must be carefully compacted so that no voids form. After this, you need to install a barrel without a bottom so that its upper edge rises 7-8 cm above the ground surface. In the future, this will greatly facilitate dismantling the container. You need to fill the sides of the walls with crushed stone. It should reach 2/3 of the height of the container. Place a layer of clay on top to the ground level. When the hole is completely filled, cover the surface of the soil with fine gravel. Also, add an additional layer of sand on top, reaching the level of the top edge of the container.
Pouring the foundation
In parallel with installing a container without a bottom with your own hands, or after that, you need to start building a foundation for the future toilet. This construction phase consists of the following processes:
Construction of the above-ground part of the street toilet
After constructing the foundation for the outdoor toilet with your own hands and installing the container, you need to start building the booth. This process consists of the following steps:
- You need to lay a piece of roofing felt on the surface of the foundation.
- A wooden beam measuring 100x100 mm should be used for bottom trim bases under the floor. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution.
- To build solid foundation, install the bars around the perimeter of the structure and in the middle of the long side of the structure, attach them with nuts, having previously placed them on metal pins.
- Using 40 mm thick boards, build the floor of the future toilet. In this case, it is necessary to leave a hole under the toilet where the container is located.
- Attach 4 wooden columns to the corners of the base. Two of them should have a height of 2 m, and the other two should have a height of 2.2 m. Choose bars with a cross section of 100x50 mm. They need to be attached using metal corners and wooden spacers. Before final installation of the frame, check the verticality of the posts.
- On the front wall under the doors, install additional columns of the same section. The width of the opening should be 0.7 m and the height 1.97.
- Fasten the racks on the other side with a vertical jumper at a level of 1.77 m, which will also serve as the base for the roof.
- Along the structure, leaning on the installed jumpers, attach two rafter legs.
- As roof sheathing, use 40 mm thick boards, which must be attached to the rafters using regular nails.
- Install to the grid covering using screws OSB sheet, which will act as a base for the roofing material.
- Use soft bitumen shingles or roofing felt as a covering. It is necessary to choose materials that will not create additional load on the structure.
- For wall cladding, use a tongue-and-groove or half-tongue board 2-4 cm thick.
- To prevent the inside of the building from being hot in summer and cold in winter, you need to make thermal insulation with your own hands. To do this, install foam sheets in the inner plane of the frame. After this, you need to additionally sew up the walls with another layer of board.
- Apply a special impregnation to all wooden elements, which will protect their surface from the harmful effects of moisture and other negative environmental factors. You can also additionally use fire retardants.
- Install doors on the curtains. You can equip them with a small window to illuminate the interior space during the daytime.
Interior design of an outdoor bathroom
Before interior work Inside the room you need to lay a cable for the lighting device. You can do this yourself by entering the electrical wiring through a mast, which should be attached to the back wall of the bathroom. At the same time, its height is 2.5 m. Cable routing should be done in an open way. The wire cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm 2. For lighting, use a lamp with a power of 40 W or less.
To construct the seat, use bars with a cross-section of 30x60 cm. Build a frame 400 mm high from them, and attach them using self-tapping screws. The finished structure must be sheathed with plywood or OSB board. In this case, you must remember to leave a hole in the place where the plastic container is installed. The final step is to attach the seat with lid, which is used for a regular toilet. When everything is ready, paint the interior and exterior of the bathroom with paint or varnish, which will extend its life and help keep the wood in its original condition.
So in a simple way You can build an outdoor toilet yourself using a regular container made of plastic or metal.
Video: Septic tank: types, principle of operation and installation
Reading time ≈ 11 minutes
One of the most important buildings on a country site is the toilet. The street option is not always convenient, but this arrangement also has its advantages. Next, we will tell you how to build a toilet in your dacha with your own hands step by step, and we will provide clear instructions with drawings, dimensions, photos and videos.
Beautiful, neat outdoor toilet in the country.
Features and nuances
Building a simple country toilet is not a difficult task, but it is worth considering a number of nuances to make the construction easy to use. It is important to pay attention to planning and design - you need to think through everything, from the location of the toilet to its type (according to the principle of operation) and the appearance of the house itself.
The location should be chosen in such a way that it is convenient for the family and does not cause discomfort to residents in the neighborhood. It is also necessary to immediately decide whether there will be a toilet with a cesspool or not - if it is available, it is necessary to consider free access to the construction of the sewer truck.
Toilet on site.
Safety standards
When choosing a place for a closet, you need to start not only from your personal wishes for convenience, but also take into account sanitary standards, which regulate the location of such structures on the site.
- The distance from the water source is at least 30 m. A distance of 30 m must be maintained to the reservoir.
- Distance from hygiene buildings (outdoor shower, bathhouse, etc.) – 8 m.
- The distance from outbuildings intended for keeping animals is 4 m.
- The distance from trees and bushes is 4 and 1 m, respectively.
- The distance from residential buildings is at least 5 m, but it is better to make a greater distance.
- A distance of 1 m must be maintained from neighboring buildings.
From depth groundwater It will depend on what type of closet to build - if the water is at a level above 2 m, you can build structures without a cesspool. If the depth is 2.5 m or more, it is allowed to build toilets with a cesspool, including backlash closets.
In addition to those listed, there are additional criteria to choose a place for the restroom. So, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the winds - this way you can avoid the spread of smell in the yard.
Important! If you plan to build a toilet with a cesspool, the project must first be agreed upon with the sanitary-epidemiological station. The conditions for installing the structure may differ in regions, but in any case, dumping waste into the ground will be regarded as a violation of the law.
Location of the toilet on the site.
Varieties
Before we tell you how to build a country toilet step by step with your own hands using photos and drawings, it’s worth understanding the varieties.
In general, all village toilets can be divided into two groups: with and without cesspool. In the first case, waste disposal is carried out by a sewer truck. In the second case, waste disposal is accomplished in other ways. Let's take a detailed look at the photo characteristics of a toilet in a country house without a cesspool and with a cesspool, which you can build with your own hands.
With cesspool
This is the most widely used type of outdoor toilet. The design of this toilet is simple - a depression is made in the ground, usually up to 2 m, above which a small house is installed on top. The waste can either ferment and decompose in the pit on its own, or be pumped out using a special machine.
Installation of a toilet with a cesspool.
A variation is the backlash closet - it also has a cesspool. The difference is that backlash closets are usually installed inside a heated room; their cesspool is located outside the foundation of the home and has a hatch for cleaning. They are also equipped with a ventilation pipe.
Important! A backlash closet is a capital structure, the location of which does not change. Therefore, it is necessary to make access to it for a cleaning machine.
Backlash closet device.
Powder closets
As the name suggests, waste in this type of toilet is sprinkled with a cleaning agent, as if “powdered.” This design does not provide for a cesspool, therefore it can be installed in areas with high level occurrence of water when other types of toilets are not possible.
Various fillers can be used as powder:
- peat;
- ash;
- dry leaves;
- dry soil;
- sawdust;
- a mixture of different types.
Another name for such toilets is dry toilets. They are also called compost, because waste mixed with filler is collected in compost heaps, where this entire mixture is processed and forms valuable fertilizers.
Important! Sprinkling with filler is necessary after every visit to the restroom!
Powder-closet device.
Peat
This type of toilet is often classified as powder closets and dry closets. Externally they look like a toilet, at the bottom of which (immediately under the seat) there is a storage capacity for waste, and in the rear part of the body there is a container for peat. Such a toilet is compact, convenient, and can be installed both in a separate house on the street and in a designated room in a private house.
Every time after going to the toilet you need to use peat powder. When the tank is full, it must be emptied - dump the waste into the compost pit. In two years, when the decomposition cycle ends, you will get an excellent fertilizer.
In the case of this type of closet, it is impossible to do without ventilation - for this it is necessary to install pipes of various diameters, depending on the number of people using the toilet.
Peat toilet device and appearance.
Bio and with chemical filler
Manufacturing
When a site for the toilet has been selected, you have decided on the type of waste disposal system, and have also figured out what the above-ground structure of the toilet will be - you can begin the process. Next, we will tell you and show you in photos and videos how to build a toilet with a cesspool in your dacha in stages with your own hands, using drawings with dimensions.
In general, the process can be divided into the following steps:
- We dig a cesspool.
- Laying the foundation.
- We are building a house.
For work we will use the following drawing (you can change the parameters to suit your needs):
cesspool
The following tools may be required for work:
- shovels;
- level and tape measure;
- hand drill;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- sander;
- crowbar/drill;
- jigsaw
The materials we will use are:
- sand;
- cement;
- crushed stone;
- reinforcement and metal mesh;
- dense polyethylene film.
Instructions for arranging a pit:
- Determine the shape of the cesspool in accordance with the toilet design. Usually it is round or square, but can be rectangular.
- When using a storage tank, determine its location correctly - the inlet should be located in the place of the toilet seat, the second should extend beyond the building. In this case, the cesspool is dug according to the shape of the container, adding 30 cm on each side.
- A thick drainage layer from large stones and bricks.
- We strengthen the walls of the cesspool. For this purpose, we attach a chain-link mesh and a reinforcing grid to them. You can use metal pins to secure them.
- We concrete the walls with a layer of 5-10 cm and wait for complete drying. Afterwards we plaster.
- We install a floor slab on top - it will also serve as the foundation.
- We place wooden beams, pre-impregnated with a protective solution, on top of the pit. You can use them instead concrete pillars. These structures need to be deepened to ground level.
- The surface is covered with polyethylene, holes are left under the hatch and seat and treated with formwork.
- We lay a lattice frame on top of the film, fill everything with concrete and wait for it to dry. Done, all that remains is to build the house.
Pit construction.
If you plan to build a simple, cheap toilet for rare use, the pit can be equipped with tires. The step-by-step algorithm of actions is simple:
- Dig a hole in the shape of the tires, adding 20 cm in diameter.
- Cover the bottom with crushed stone, a layer of 20 cm.
- Place the tires one on top of the other in the center, the top one should be level with the soil.
- Fill the space on the sides with sand and gravel, carefully compacting the layers.
- We are building the foundation. We dig a 0.5 m hole around the perimeter. Fill it with 10 cm of sand and crushed stone.
- Cover with plastic wrap.
- We create a frame. To do this, we use bricks filled with cement, or reinforcement with cement.
- After the concrete has dried, it needs to be plastered, covered with roofing felt and the house erected.
Tire pit.
If the cesspool is equipped with a barrel, the algorithm of actions is identical.
Scooped out of a barrel.
House
Now let's get to the rather creative part - building the house. We will tell you and show you step by step in photos with drawings the process of making a country toilet with your own hands.
Advice: try to make the structure as light as possible so that the soil does not sag for as long as possible.
The design of the house can be very different - “teremok”, “hut”, “mill”, “house”.
Types of toilet houses.
The photo below shows the outline of a simple tower structure.
Drawing of a toilet house.
To build a “hut”, use the following drawing:
Drawing of a hut type structure.
For a simple cabin (“birdhouse”), use this drawing:
Rectangular toilet cubicle.
Manufacturing is as simple as possible. According to the scheme, it is necessary to make a frame from beams and cover it with boards. Next, lay the roofing material, install windows and doors. Finally, you need to do the interior decoration by covering the walls with wallpaper or painting them.
Tip: the toilet seat itself must be purchased from plastic with a straight hole. It is impossible to install ordinary ceramic urban models due to their heavy weight, as well as the internal slope for flushing.
Wooden toilet inside.
Thus, you have learned how to build an outdoor toilet in your country house with your own hands, using drawings with dimensions, photos and videos. As you can see, this process is not complicated, but the arrangement should be approached responsibly, because the construction is on for a long time will determine the comfort of staying in a suburban area.
Video: do-it-yourself country toilet.
Often the first thing a person thinks about after purchasing a plot of land is: how to make a simple outdoor toilet in a dacha with your own hands and ready-made drawings will come in handy here, as well as detailed description all stages of construction, tips and nuances.
One of the most important and vital buildings in a country house or garden plot is the toilet. The need for a simple structure arises within a few hours of arrival. And even if the owners already have a bathroom in a cozy house, outdoor amenities will never be superfluous.
It’s easy to build a toilet in your summer cottage with your own hands
The simplicity of the design allows even a person without much construction experience to equip a toilet for their dacha with their own hands. And if you use your imagination, then a house for thinking about
will fit perfectly into the design of the site and, perhaps, even become its decoration.
What kind of toilet to build: types and features
Actually, there are only two options here: with or without a cesspool.
- A toilet with a cesspool is a simple structure, proven by experience and time, which consists of an equipped cesspool and a toilet house above it. As the pit is filled with sewage, it is cleaned out manually or a sewer truck is ordered.
And sometimes they simply move the house to another place. The old pit is buried, and after 6-7 years its contents will finally rot and you can put the toilet back again.
- A backlash closet is a type of outdoor toilet with a pit for sewage, but with the difference that it must be sealed. Such a toilet has to be built if it is located close to a house, a water source, or when the groundwater is high.
Diagram: how the backlash closet works
- A toilet without a cesspool or a powder closet is installed if the groundwater is very high or if the toilet is rarely used. In this case, the container for collecting sewage can be anything except a hole (bucket, barrel, plastic tank). The required volume determines the intensity of use of the bathroom.
After each trip to such a toilet, sewage is sprinkled with dry peat, sometimes sawdust or ash is used, so the house should have a box for “masking powder”. After filling, the container is removed manually and the contents are evacuated to the compost pit. If the sewage has been sprinkled with peat, then after a while it becomes a wonderful fertilizer.
Toilet without a cesspool (powder closet)
Important! If groundwater lies below 2.5 meters, any type of toilet can be built, but if it is located higher, then a cesspool will have to be abandoned.
Where to build a toilet
For toilets with a cesspool, there are a number of sanitary and hygienic standards and restrictions, which determine their location on the site.
Minimum distances from the toilet to other objects:
- To water sources (wells, boreholes, lakes, rivers) – 25 m;
- To houses, cellars - 12 m;
- Before summer shower or baths - 8 m;
- To the nearest tree – 4 m, and to the bushes – 1 m;
- To fences - at least 1 m.
Scheme: correct location toilet relative to other buildings on the dacha plot
Important! When choosing a construction site, it is worth considering not only the objects located on your own site, but also those located on the neighboring one.
So that summer evenings on the terrace are not spoiled by the amber, the place is chosen taking into account the wind rose. If the site is located on a slope, it is better to install the toilet at the lowest point.
Construction of a cesspool
After selecting and preparing the site, they begin to dig a cesspool. As a rule, it is square in shape and at least 2 meters deep.
There are two types of cesspool:
- Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted, reinforced before pouring, and to prevent the reinforcement from sinking in the concrete, it is placed on pegs. The walls are also sealed, puttied with mortar or the seams covered with bitumen.
Sealed pit latrine
- Absorbing. It is better to dig such a hole down to the sand, then the liquid fraction of sewage will quickly sink into the ground. The bottom is covered with a layer of coarse crushed stone or pebbles.
Absorption cesspool design
There are several ways to strengthen the walls of a cesspool:
- Brickwork;
- Concrete structure;
- Ready iron concrete rings;
- Plastic tank.
The pit is covered from above, with beams, slate or concrete, leaving only the area under the toilet seat open, and they begin to assemble the toilet house.
Construction of a toilet house
The optimal dimensions of a country toilet are 1×1.5 m, height – 2.2-2.5 m. Otherwise, it will simply be inconvenient, especially for people with large figures. It is not necessary to make toilet drawings yourself, if there are no special requirements and you can use ready-made ideas.
First of all, the scheme is convenient in that it allows you to correctly calculate the amount of building materials and the preliminary cost of a yard bathroom.
Construction of a toilet over a cesspool (proper placement diagram)
Frame base
It is recommended to move the toilet house 2/3 forward above the cesspool, thus providing access for cleaning behind the rear wall of the structure.
The stability of the building can be ensured by a shallow foundation. Between it and the frame, waterproofing is laid, 1-2 layers of roofing material. But for light construction made of wood it is not at all necessary. It is enough to install the base on concrete blocks.
You can also put four supporting pillars. To do this, four holes about 60 cm deep are dug in the corners of the future structure, in soft soils up to 1 meter, and asbestos pipes are lowered into them. The hole is filled one third with cement mortar. After this, a support beam is installed in the pipe, and the hole is completely filled with concrete.
Installing the toilet base on concrete blocks
Frame assembly
To build a frame, beams with a cross section of 50×50 or 80×80 mm will be sufficient; it is not advisable to take larger material.
- First, assemble a rectangular support with a jumper from which the front wall of the toilet seat will rise, and screw it to the foundation or support posts. A board is laid on top. Thickness floor board must be at least 3 cm.
Construction wooden frame for the toilet
- The frame of the front, rear and side walls is assembled from timber. In this case, the front wall should be at least 10 cm higher than the back wall, this will ensure the necessary roof slope.
- For greater structural strength, it is recommended to make diagonal jibs on the side and rear walls.
- On the front wall, be sure to make a reinforcement for the door of the appropriate size and make a hole for the window.
- The frames of the walls are secured to the base with metal corners, and a strapping is made on top and at the level of the toilet seat.
Strengthening the toilet frame with metal corners
- The next step will be assembling the frame of the toilet seat and covering it, if not provided alternative options, for example, a floor-mounted toilet.
Frame covering
The frame is covered with wooden boards. The vertical arrangement allows you to significantly save material, and the horizontal one imitates a log house and looks more interesting. The boards are tightly fitted to each other and attached to the base. Instead of wood, corrugated sheets, slate or any other material that matches the construction budget are also used.
Toilet frame trim
Advice! It is advisable to treat all wooden structural elements with a special antibacterial impregnation, which will protect the material from moisture and pests, and then coat it with varnish or paint.
Roof
The roof should not protrude beyond the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins by securing parallel boards at a short distance. After this, the visor is sewn up from below, and boards are attached to the outside around the perimeter. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared base, usually roofing felt, after which the structure is covered with any roofing material (slate, metal profile, bitumen shingles).
For a toilet, erecting a simple flat roof is enough
Summer residents, whom standard scheme not satisfied with the house, they can find drawings for more interesting options, make it yourself or purchase ready-made toilet houses, they are assembled like a designer, and for convenience they are necessarily accompanied by instructions and all the accompanying drawings.
Exhaust ventilation
Exhaust ventilation in a country toilet is a pipe that removes odors from the cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the hole, and the upper edge should rise above the roof by at least 20 cm.
Ventilation of a country toilet
Suitable for arranging ventilation plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters. It is pulled to the rear wall from the inside or outside of the building and fixed with iron clamps. To increase traction, a deflector attachment is installed on the head.
Installing a toilet door
Doors are installed using ordinary wooden, ready-made plastic or home-made ones, from the material with which the frame was sheathed. Hang the door on 2 hinges. In principle, the closing method can be any, traditionally it is a latch, latch or hook, outside and inside. It is better to avoid more sophisticated locking systems, for example, with latches, since their mechanism will be exposed to moisture and will quickly rust.
Two hinges are enough to install the door
Lighting
For more comfortable operation of amenities, it is better to take care of their lighting in advance. This could be a wall lantern that is battery powered. As an option, you can install electrical wiring and connect a small lighting fixture.
Lighting options for a country toilet
During the day, a small window will illuminate the interior space. It is usually cut out above the doors or at the top of the door, but there are actually more options, from figured windows on the walls and up to the transparent roof.
Advice! A cesspool will last longer if you don’t throw it in toilet paper and other hygienic or household accessories, so there must be a bucket in the toilet. If the size allows, it is convenient to install a regular washbasin with a hanging spout here, especially since the rowing pit is already ready.
Powder closet: construction features
The absence of a cesspool is the main difference in construction. But there are some differences in the design of the house. You will have to think about a way to remove the container in which the sewage is collected.
Scheme: powder closet device
The door is usually equipped on the back wall of the house or the front wall of the toilet seat. Inside the cabin there is a special box for peat (ash, sawdust). It’s also impossible to do without ventilation here, only the pipe is not lowered into the hole, but directly under the toilet seat.
Not a single summer cottage can do without this structure. You can completely build it yourself, and our tips and recommendations will help you.
Some owners suburban areas they refuse to build a toilet according to all the rules and the issue of waste disposal is always on the agenda, so it is better to spend time building a toilet once and close this issue for many years. A interesting design a toilet can fit very organically into the landscape of the site and even decorate it. Or you can place the toilet in the far corner of the site and make it almost invisible - it’s up to you. The main thing is that when building a toilet, construction and sanitary and epidemiological standards are observed.
The most time-consuming step in building a toilet is digging a hole, but for a real owner this is not a problem, after all, you can find an assistant or use paid services. Further work does not amount to special labor, the main thing is to follow some rules.
Selecting a location
As a rule, the toilet is installed in the far corner of the site due to the presence of minor odors. If you visit the dacha all year round, then the toilet can be located closer to the house or directly in the house, removing sewer pipe V drain hole. Usually last option used if the house has running water.
Basic rules and regulations when choosing a location for a drainage pit (toilet):
– the pit must be located at a distance of no less than 30 m from water sources;
– the depth of the pit should not reach the groundwater level;
– when installing a septic tank, it must be located at a distance no closer than 15m from the house;
– when using an insulated container, it is fashionable to place the drainage hole anywhere, since waste will not flow into the ground; an insulated container is also used if the groundwater lies too close;
– if you plan to pump out a drainage pit with a sewer truck, then you need to take into account the possibility of such a machine approaching and the distance from the entrance to the pit should not be too large.
As a rule, the size of a cesspool in a summer cottage is 1x1 m or a diameter of 1 m with a depth of 1.5...2 m.
Choosing a toilet design
Wooden blocks, boards, and corrugated sheets can be recommended as materials for a toilet booth. Then the toilet will be light and no foundation will be required. If you choose brick or logs as the material for the toilet, you will need to build a foundation. When building a toilet, the device brick building does not make sense, since such a room will not be warmer than a light building, and a building made of corrugated sheets or boards can be easily insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool, mineral wool or other types of insulation. By upholstering the toilet with thermal insulation materials, it will not only become warmer during the cold season, but also cooler on hot summer days.
You can decide on the size of the toilet yourself; usually the toilet has dimensions LxWxH 1.5x1x2.3 m, but these dimensions can vary at your discretion.
You can also purchase ready-made toilet booths in the store; they can be plastic, wooden or metal. They are easy to transport and assemble.
Necessary materials
Depending on the selected model of toilet booth, the necessary materials are purchased.
– Wooden blocks and boards
– Fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, nuts, screws)
– Metal corners for the frame
– Handles, hook or latch
– Roofing material(corrugated sheeting, slate, roofing felt, etc.)
– Insulation material, if necessary (foam plastic, glass wool, etc.) and material for internal wall cladding (plywood, thin boards, chipboard, etc.).
– A toilet seat with a lid (you can purchase a ready-made one or make it yourself from boards).
For cesspool necessary:
– crushed stone;
– cement;
– chain-link mesh with metal brackets;
Instead of a chain-link mesh plastered with concrete, you can use brick or concrete rings with holes, old tires large diameter or metal barrels.
The most environmentally friendly container is a septic tank. Plastic containers of different sizes are available for sale, you just need to choose right size, depending on the length of stay and the number of summer residents.
Required Tools
– hand drill;
– shovels (scoop and bayonet);
- hammer;
– screwdriver;
- Sander;
– jigsaw;
– marking tools (tape measure, level, square).
Construction of a concrete cesspool or a pit lined with brick
1. Mark the location of the future hole on the site; the shape of the hole can be either round or rectangular.
2. Dig a hole, observing safety measures (the area where the work will take place must be fenced off and strangers, especially children, must not be allowed into it; the soil removed from the hole must be removed to a safe distance).
3. After the hole is dug, drainage needs to be arranged at the bottom. Stones, large crushed stone, and broken bricks can be used as drainage.
4. After this, the walls of the pit need to be covered with a mesh - chain-link (cell size 5x5 cm). Secure the mesh with steel brackets or pins, driving them into the ground. To strengthen the walls, you can additionally reinforce them with a metal lattice with 10x10 cm cells. After this, the pit must be concreted, thrown onto the walls concrete mortar several layers. The total thickness of the concrete should be 5...8 cm, then the pit should be left until completely dry.
Alternatively, you can line the drainage hole with bricks
Or you can use ready-made concrete rings
5. The finished pit is covered with a finished one reinforced concrete slab, which will be the foundation for the toilet. If you don’t have a ready-made slab, you can make it yourself. To do this, boards are laid on the pit, the size of which should be 50 cm larger on each side than the size of the pit. The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and recessed to ground level. You need to leave two holes on the surface: for the toilet seat and a cesspool. Install formwork around the holes. A dense polyethylene film is laid on the surface of the boards, on which a reinforcement grid is laid and enclosed in formwork around the perimeter. Then the prepared surface must be poured with concrete and left until completely dry. To increase strength and durability, you need to “ironize” - treat the wet surface after the mortar has set with dry cement.
6. Install a cover or hatch on the sump hole.
7. Install a toilet booth on the finished site.
Construction of a cesspool for a septic tank
If you use a plastic septic tank, then dig a hole so that the inlet pipe is in the toilet, and the neck of the second chamber remains outside toilet room for pumping out fecal matter. Containers come in different volumes and shapes, depending on this, the shape and depth of the pit will be appropriate. It must be remembered that the size of the pit should be 20...30 cm larger than the selected container, the soil around the plastic septic tank must be well compacted.
Construction of a cesspool with car tires
– To construct the walls of the pit you can use car tires. The advantage of this option is minimal labor costs, but the disadvantage is its small volume and shorter service life compared to a concrete pit. You need to start by digging a hole, the diameter of which should be 15...20 cm larger than the diameter of the tires. Place a drainage layer 20 cm thick at the bottom. Place tires in the middle of the hole to the level of the ground surface. As it is laid, crushed stone and sand are poured and compacted between the walls of the pit and the tires.
After laying the tires, you need to build a strip foundation around the pit. To do this, you need to dig a trench 50 cm deep around the perimeter of the toilet, the bottom of the trench must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone (5...7 cm each), compacting thoroughly. Then lay waterproofing made of dense polyethylene.
After this you need to arrange foundation one of the suggested methods:
1. Weld and install the grille from the reinforcement and install it in wooden formwork so that the formwork is 10...15 cm above ground level. Pour concrete mortar into the formwork. After hardening, remove the formwork.
2. Post brick foundation, then plaster it with cement, leveling the walls and top.
You need to lay roofing felt on the foundation and install a ready-made toilet or one you built yourself.
Construction of a cesspool from a metal (plastic) barrel
This is the least labor-intensive option, but it has significant drawback: under influence aggressive environment both outside and inside the barrel, the metal quickly deteriorates and such a pit can only be used as a temporary one.
To construct such a hole, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter larger than the diameter of the barrel. Barrels with a cut bottom are placed one on top of the other, the space between the barrels and the pit is filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand and compacted thoroughly.
Instead of a metal barrel, a plastic barrel can be used as a drainage hole, which can be purchased in a store or use a suitable one by drilling drainage holes in the walls. Such a barrel will not be destroyed by corrosion and will last quite a long time. If the farm has a plastic barrel
Building a toilet house
The toilet room can have a variety of designs. Typically its dimensions are: width 1 m, length 1.5 m, height 2.5 m. You can build an inconspicuous structure, hiding it out of sight, or you can give it an interesting design that will decorate your site.
Below is a diagram of a toilet made from boards and logs, looking like a fairy-tale house.
On the foundation, waterproofed with roofing felt, attach a frame, which is made of powerful wooden blocks.
Then the frame of the house is knocked down and then the walls are upholstered and the roof is upholstered with the removed material. The walls can be covered with logs or boards, and the roof with slate, metal tiles, bitumen shingles or any other roofing material.
Such a house can be installed on a drainage pit, or can be used as a room for a dry closet.
In the video you can see an example of the construction of a bathroom. node on a summer cottage
Dry toilet
An alternative to the capital construction of a toilet is a dry toilet, which is a toilet that does not require a separate permanent room and drainage pit.
The dry closet consists of two chambers, where the upper one is a toilet, and the lower one is used for biological treatment of waste products. It contains active substances that decompose waste, turning it into a homogeneous, odorless mass. Typically, the action of the bioactive liquid lasts for 10 days, after which the chamber must be cleaned by removing the contents into the sewer or soil, depending on what kind of biologically active substances are used.
Active substances
there are three types:
– composting
– chemical
– microorganic.
The choice of the type of active substances depends on the type of dry closet.
– for composting, peat is used as an active substance. It has a very high absorption capacity (1 kg of peat can absorb 10 liters of liquid). The resulting compost is odorless and can be used as fertilizer for garden beds. Such a dry closet can be equipped with pipes to remove unpleasant odors.
– in the toilet, used as active chemical substances, an indicator is installed indicating the need to clean the container. This waste is discharged into the sewer. This type can be equipped with substances that have anti-freezing properties.
– in a biological toilet, microorganisms are used as active substances, which, as a result of their vital activity, turn waste into compost. The resulting compost is odorless, environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to the soil and animals.
Bioactive substances for toilets
Biologically active substances for drainage pits are similar to those used in dry closets. They include peat, chemical or bacterial concentrates, which gradually process waste products and rid the toilet of unpleasant odors. Available in the form of tablets, powders or liquids.
Before use, you should read the instructions for use, which indicate the dosage and method of application. The following active substances are produced, one package of which is enough for a whole year of use for a cesspool volume of up to 4 tons.