Nowadays it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, however, not everyone is able to purchase ready material due to its high cost. It is quite possible to make this finishing material on one's own. In addition, it is possible to make tiles in accordance with your personal requests and needs.
Making paving slabs with your own hands has many advantages, since the finished product: has original design, can be of absolutely any color, quite durable and hardy. The production of sidewalk tiles is considered a rather complex and labor-intensive process, especially considering the lack of experience in its production. In addition to preparing forms and tools, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution for pouring.
There are only two types of manufacturing of these products, namely, by vibration pressing and vibration casting.
The production of tiles using the vibration pressing method involves the use of thick cement mixture with the addition of a small amount of water. Making tiles by vibrocompression involves preparing the mixture in a vibropress. For homemade For tiles, the vibration casting method is most suitable. To produce tiles using this method, you will need a concrete mixer, vibrating table and casting molds.
Paving slabs is considered simple ideal option for arranging a summer house and country house. Its affordable cost and ease of installation make this material ideal for creating beautiful and comfortable walking paths. This coating has long been considered one of the most beautiful and durable. However, due to the high cost of finished tiles, not many people decide to purchase them. To improve your summer cottage or country house, you can make tiles yourself. To make tiles yourself, you first need to prepare the mixture, observing all the required proportions. The recipe for the mixture is quite simple, however, you definitely need to know what components to add and what the proportions should be.
To make the mixture you need to take:
- Binding components;
- Water;
- Fillers;
- Special additives;
- Dye.
Cement is used as binding components. The grade of cement is selected depending on the degree of compressive strength of the component. It is best that the cement grade is M500. The filler can be sand and crushed stone, or just clean sand can be used.
A plasticizer or dispersant is used as special additives. These mineral additives must be used, as they increase frost resistance and give the products greater strength. In addition, they increase the elasticity of the finished tile and give its surface a beautiful glossy shine.
When producing tiles, you definitely need a dye, since when used correctly, the durability and attractiveness of the finished product increases. IN percentage the amount of dyes used should be no more than 4-5% of the total mass of the concrete mixture.
It is desirable for the dyes used to be lightfast and resistant to adverse weather conditions, and also insoluble in water. When preparing a concrete mixture, be sure to distribute the dye evenly. The recipe for preparing a mixture for tiles varies depending on the requirements for the resulting product.
Optimal composition of mortar for paving slabs
When making tiles yourself, it is important not only to make the product correctly, but also to determine the composition of the solution, which is often quite difficult to do. When preparing the solution, you need to take into account such factors as the type of raw materials used, as well as the conditions for pouring and drying the products. Before you start making tiles, you need to prepare the ingredients, a vibrating table with a perfectly flat surface and shapes.
Sand-cement mixture is made from such components as:
- Cement grade M500 is white;
- Fine river sand;
- Granite crushed stone fraction 3-5 mm or screenings;
- Water;
- Liquid dye;
- Plasticizer;
- Dispersant.
The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. Initially, you need to mix the sand well with cement and the prepared plasticizer, and then add crushed stone, which, if desired, can be replaced with screenings. At the very end, you need to pour in liquid in small portions. The consistency of the resulting solution should be strong enough so that it sticks easily to the trowel, however, the mixture should not crumble or crack when lightly tapped on the form. The consumption of components largely depends on the required characteristics of the finished product, which is why it is calculated separately. Important! If all the required conditions are met, you can obtain high-quality paving slabs that will be highly durable and durable.
How to make paving slabs at home
The most popular element for paving paths in country house or at summer cottage, central squares and city streets are considered to be paving slabs or figured paving elements.
The main advantages of FEM are considered:
- Ease of manufacture;
- Attractive appearance;
- Easy installation.
The tile manufacturing technology means that after preparing the mixture, it needs to be poured into molds located on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture, the molds must be greased. oil remedy. The vibration process lasts only a few minutes and its duration depends on the thickness of the tile.
Excess concrete must be removed with a spatula, and if the mixture sinks too much in the molds, then you need to add concrete mortar and continue vibrating.
The surface of the solution is then smoothed, and then the filled forms are transferred to pallets. Depending on the air temperature and size, the tiles need to be dried for 2 to 4 days in a special drying chamber. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a certain air humidity and temperature. After drying, the molds are placed in an evaporation bath. When carrying out heat-steam treatment, it is necessary to set soft hardening modes and the temperature should not exceed 70 o C. Excavation finished products carried out on a special table or manually. It is worth remembering that maximum strength occurs only after 28 days.
DIY plasticizer for paving slabs
Now there are many options for paving slabs, thanks to the use of special forms in its manufacture and dyes different colors. Many people prefer to make tiles themselves, but you need to know how many components to take when producing them. In addition to the main components, plasticizers are also used.
These substances help:
- Improve the quality of manufactured products;
- Simplify the process of forming tiles;
- Improve the appearance of the finished product.
When producing tiles, the plasticizer must be prepared in advance. To do this, dry plasticizer is poured into water heated to 40 o C in a 1:2 ratio. Then the mixture must be mixed for 15 minutes using a mixer attachment. When the solution is ready, it needs to be left for a while. It is best to prepare the plasticizer in the evening, and in the morning you only need to stir it for 15 minutes.
Making paving slabs (video)
In order for the product to be durable and resistant to negative atmospheric conditions, it is imperative to comply with all the required conditions for the manufacture of tiles and use only high-quality materials.
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So I poured 10 pieces, 8 hours passed, I started to take them out, they burst, and even after I lit the ash, I put the molds on the boiler, is it possible to do this? |
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Dear! Even in this article it is written that the tiles are removed after 2 - 3 days, but you cannot try to dry the cement, this will lead to its weakening and cracking. |
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So I don’t have the same curves as yours, I have small ones |
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for BUMER, |
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THANKS FOR THE ADVICE |
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I once made paving slabs at home. About 5% are defective. |
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Thanks for the advice, I tried it right now, poured 10 forms into the solution, added soap for the solution, I don’t know what will happen |
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for BUMER to pour the mold hot water and the tile will fall out on its own |
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It is necessary to add fine crushed stone, or slag or gravel to the solution as for the manufacture of normal paving slabs! Cement and sand, it will burst and all happiness!! |
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I’m curious what grades you got in school))) |
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Anonymous| August 5, 2013 11:02:59 for Anonymous, why do they all write with water and a small amount of waste (oil) |
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Anonymous| August 5, 2013 11:06:05 I can use metallurgical slag (fine fraction) we have it in bulk))))))))))) there are a lot of iron impurities there. |
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Alexander| August 21, 2013 02:56:44 soap is added to the solution so that it does not “sit” (if the sand is bad). This does not affect the strength of the concrete in any way... |
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Schwartz| August 22, 2013 23:58:07 The so-called soap is a special additive to the solution. The essence of this additive is that when it is added when preparing a solution, it requires less water, the solution also compacts better. Some additives can give concrete increased resistance to water and less absorption. |
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decided to make wooden molds, what to coat them with??? |
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for Svetlana, |
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How long is it better to keep the grouted tiles under the film? |
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I kept it under the film for 2 - 3 days, then took it out of the molds and periodically wetted it throughout the entire period of concrete formation. True, my shapes were not the same as here, but smaller, but I think there is no difference. |
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Thank you! I'll try it on the balcony while it's winter |
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The balcony should be with a temperature of more than +10 degrees. Then you will have excellent tiles. |
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Please tell me, shape 300*300*18, whether crushed stone or reinforcing mesh should be added to the solution. |
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18 mm, this is a very thin tile, even with reinforcement it will easily break. Crushed stone has a greater effect on the wear resistance of the product (abrasion), and reinforcement on strength (bending). |
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for Anonymous, So I wrote out the wrong form. I wanted to make tiles to cover the porch. |
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Approximately how much cement is needed for Foma 45mm deep and 250x250 in size? It’s not difficult to calculate how much sand you need. And yes, how much fiber should I add there???? Thank you very much in advance. |
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Usually it is 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fiber fiber is also added. You can do this 0.250 * 0.250 * 0.045 and divide it into 4 parts where 3 parts are sand and 1 part cement, it turns out 0.000703 m3, in one m3 there is approximately 1300 kg of dry cement, which means that a quarter of the volume of the tile weighs approximately 0.913 kg if this cement. |
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for Anonymous, 1 part cement to 3 parts sand is not a mortar for tiles!!! 1 part cement (grade no less than 500) 1 part crushed stone and 1 part sand and be sure to add superplasticizer C-3. but you can just use 1 part cement and 2 parts screenings plus a superplasticizer. and if it’s just cement and sand and even 1 to 3 - this is not for paving slabs!!! |
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for Anonymous, You think the store sells sidewalks made using 500-grade cement. I personally saw how 400 were brought to one production and this happened all the time. |
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Good article! We also want to make our own tiles, and we’ve already made a vibration table ourselves. Watch the video, maybe you can do something similar too! (link removed by moderator) |
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A plasticizer is added. |
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Well, who told you that there must be crushed stone in the tiles! Firstly they add granite screening, not Crushed Stone! Large crushed stone in a small tile can take up the entire space, and the finished product will simply burst in half along the contour of this stone. And fine screening makes it possible to make the tiles more wear-resistant to abrasion. Also, many manufacturers have tiles made only on the basis of a cement-sand mixture, and believe me, it doesn’t get any worse, the proportion is 3-1 and with a plasticizer it will stand fine on a vibrating table. |
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If you smear the mold with oil, then on the front side there will definitely be small shells from air bubbles that the oil holds! Therefore, if you want to get a smooth and glossy surface tiles, you need to use a special lubricant for molds, or at worst, prepare an “emulsion” of 1 part spindle and 10 parts warm water, all this is thoroughly shaken and applied in a thin layer to the mold before pouring concrete. |
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Please enter a unique code:Creating a project garden design garden plot, you always want to make it original and unique. Paved paths- one of the main elements of a country house - can be made of different material(door cut, gravel, a natural stone). However, it was paving slabs that gained the greatest popularity due to their presentable appearance and wide functionality and high quality materials.
You can purchase design elements in a store, but it is much more profitable to make paving slabs yourself.
Do-it-yourself paving slabs: advantages
Making paving slabs yourself is very difficult - it is a labor-intensive process that takes quite a lot of time. At the same time, making them is quite fun. As a result, you get exclusive tiles laid into a single composition for the garden path.
One more a wonderful plus DIY tiles are a cheap method. Molding paving slabs with your own hands is several times cheaper than buying ready-made material.
It is almost certain that DIY tiles will not be able to withstand the load of sites designed to accommodate heavy vehicles and buildings. But for garden paths fits better Total. Subject to proper technique at all stages of production and cooking concrete mortar The tile will serve you for quite a long time.
You can try to “play” with shades and get original and unique combinations.
How to make garden paving slabs with your own hands
- Material selection
To produce paving slabs at your dacha or country house, you need:
- Dry cement mixture
- Sand
- Water
Mixing the solution in the required proportions is carried out according to the instructions attached to the cement. For the durability of the tiles, use cement with an M500 marker, as the most durable material.
Water and sand should not contain impurities. Although the inclusion of small pebbles in the sand is acceptable. From them, your product will acquire its original texture, and the quality of the mixture will not suffer.
Use plasticizers to strengthen paving slabs and resist temperature changes.
To create a unique tile shape, purchase from a specialized store silicone molds. They are designed for approximately two hundred fills. To speed up the process, it is better to purchase several forms.
A budget option for molds is plastic food storage containers. They are flexible and plastic and are quite suitable for making your own tiles for the site. Using containers you can get tiles in the form of bricks
- How to prepare the solution
Mixing the solution can be done by hand or using a screwdriver with a mixer attachment. To make a large number of tiles, it is better to stock up on a concrete mixer.
To obtain a homogeneous mixture, sand must be poured into a rotating concrete mixer, followed by cement. As a rule, cement and sand are mixed in proportions 1:3 respectively.
Water should be added gradually, continuously stirring the entire mixture. Do not overdo it - too much water will cause a decrease in the quality of the finished concrete. To provide for this process, lyophobic additives and a reinforcing mixture are added to the solution.
The final consistency of the solution should resemble dough - be slightly liquid, but not run off the trowel.
The mixture is painted using special coloring pigments that will retain their color in any weather and atmospheric conditions. Start adding dye to the concrete mixer ( 30-60 grams). Gradually increase the proportion. The concrete will become uniform in color after 5-10 minutes. The finished solution should not have lumps
- How to pour concrete into a mold yourself
Before pouring the solution into the mold, you should first treat its inner surface with any oily substance. Even used machine oil is suitable for these purposes. Thanks to this, you can easily separate the finished tiles from the mold.
It is possible to extend the service life of paving slabs if you add the solution inside metal mesh or wire. First, pour a small amount of the mixture into the mold, place it in metal carcass, then add the remaining volume of concrete to the edge of the mold.
To remove air bubbles from the mixture in the mold, use vibration. It is convenient to use a vibrating table in this case. But a regular shelf or plywood rack will also work. Tap the trowel handle on the shelf several times - vibration is created
- How to dry tiles correctly
Cover the filled forms with plastic and leave for two to three days. During this time, try to maintain required humidity- Moisten dried concrete with a small amount of water over time.
The sun's rays should not fall on the drying solution in the molds
- Stripping
In order to separate the tiles from the mold, it is necessary to immerse the frozen mixture in hot water and keep it there for at least 10 minutes. The mold will move away from the stove on its own.
If the casting was done “on site” and the mold does not come off, do not try to heat the joint with a hairdryer. This will only make the grip stronger. In this case, you need to turn the mold over and shake out the tiles from it. Next, we place each of them in their places. If a chip occurs, then fix this place a little later.
Brine will help to completely wash the mold afterwards, followed by rinsing the frame with water.
- Aging of paving slabs
Concrete paving slabs cannot be used immediately - at this moment they are still quite fragile and can break at the edges. Concrete becomes strong after 5-7 days.
Lay the finished tiles under a canopy on fresh air and leave to dry for a week. If the paving slabs were installed on site, be sure to make a canopy of plastic film over them.
DIY paving slabs: video
To better understand the tile making process, watch the video with detailed description all stages of work.
Variety of paving slabs
Luminous tiles are very convenient - they will allow you to avoid unpleasant situations associated with moving along the path in the dark.
Rubber tiles are used for paving playgrounds and the edges of swimming pools.
Plastic paving slabs are also very popular. They are much cheaper and stronger than cement, and also do not cause harm. environment. However, plastic is susceptible to fading when exposed to direct sun rays, and also “spreads” along the ground over time.
It's hard to imagine personal plot without paths lined with concrete tiles, which have recently become increasingly popular. Do-it-yourself paving slabs can be made by anyone, even those who do not have skills in construction work. The manufacturing algorithm is quite simple and does not require expensive equipment and materials. Do-it-yourself paving slabs as a material for paths, alleys and parking spaces for cars compare favorably with asphalt, concrete or gravel.
Bulk (gravel) paths are not very comfortable to use, asphalt requires the use of special equipment, and concrete requires the use of reinforcement and pre-prepared formwork. Producing paving slabs at home will allow you to save a lot of money cash and will give your site a unique look.
Required Tools
In production concrete tiles Two methods are used: vibration casting and vibration pressing. The latter method requires the use of expensive equipment (vibropress) and is justified mainly for commercial purposes. The technology for the production of paving slabs using the vibration casting method is most suitable for home production. In this case you will need:
- A concrete mixer (mechanical or electric), which many homeowners often already have on their property.
- If you don't have a concrete mixer, you can get by construction mixer or an electric drill with special nozzle and any container (basin, trough, part plastic barrel) of a suitable volume that will be needed to prepare the solution.
- A vibration table that you can buy or make yourself.
- Molds for tiles.
- Trowel or picker, brush and bucket.
Important! How to safely make paving slabs at home - for this you must definitely use individual means protection: rubber gloves, safety glasses and a respirator!
Making a vibrating table with your own hands
How to make a vibration casting device yourself? The easiest way to make a vibrating table is to use an old washing machine, on top of which a sheet of chipboard, fiberboard or MDF of a suitable size is attached, with slats or bars attached to the edges. Turn on the machine in the “spin” mode and the vibrating table you made is already functioning. The sides will not allow workpieces to fall off the table during vibration. The efficiency and productivity of such an installation are quite suitable for making paving slabs at home.
Your own vibrating table can be made from an ordinary sharpener, which, as a rule, is always available on the farm, or any other electric motor of suitable power. Done wooden shield, it fits into several car tires. Using bolts in the center of the shield from below, we attach the sharpener. We install a heavy metal disk with an offset center on the pin (easy to make from a saucepan lid the right size). The photo will help you understand the details.
The device for the vibration process to make paving slabs with your own hands is ready for use. The process of dismantling the structure will not be difficult and will not take much time.
Manufacturing technology
The entire process of manufacturing paving slabs can be divided into several stages, each of which is equally important and affects the quality of the finished product. Making tiles is not too labor-intensive or tedious, and may even be enjoyable.
Preparing forms
How to make paving slabs and save money at the same time? You can make molds with your own hands at home from wood, polyurethane or sheet metal.
Wooden forms are made according to the principle of formwork. Suitable for the bottom of the container, and convenient to use for the sides wooden blocks. The blanks are fastened together using metal corners and screws. But this method allows you to make forms only in the form of simple geometric shapes.
To make sheet metal molds you will need welding machine. If you already have one, then this method will allow you to create the most durable containers for casting paving stones.
Very economical solution is to use food containers of suitable sizes and volumes. Plastic bottles For drinking water(with a capacity of 5 or 10 liters) can be successfully used for the independent production of square, rectangular and round shapes. Carefully cutting off the bottom, we get the finished shape.
Making polyurethane molds for homemade concrete paving slabs is quite difficult and will take a lot of time. A sample is taken as a basis (finished tiles or paving stones, a piece of board, a plaster or metal blank). Formwork is made from available material (plywood or hard cardboard), which is 10-15 mm larger in size than the sample. A two-component polyurethane compound is poured into the formwork and the sample is lowered there. The drying process usually takes about 24 hours. Then the sample is carefully removed, and after that the finished form is also removed from the formwork.
But if you do not have the time and desire to make molds for paving slabs yourself, then you can purchase them at hardware stores. There is a wide variety of these products made of plastic, rubber and polyurethane on sale in various configurations.
To further work and the process of stripping was not complicated; before pouring the solution into the mold, it is recommended to use a brush or spray gun containing fat. Can be used as a lubricant vegetable oil, solution laundry soap or a special liquid (for example, tectol Supercast ES 100).
Important! Do not apply the liquid in a thick layer - this can lead to the formation of irregularities, pores and cavities on the surface of the finished product.
Preparing a solution for filling molds
According to the technology for making concrete paving slabs at home, to produce 1 m² with a thickness of about 4-5 cm, you will need:
- 20 kg of cement grade M500 (as a last resort, M400);
- 30 kg of sifted sand;
- 30 kg of fine crushed stone or gravel (fraction size from 3 to 8 mm);
- a plasticizer (for example, MasterGlenium 51; 0.6% by weight of cement), which increases frost resistance, facilitates the process of mixing the mixture and accelerates drying;
- 0.3-0.5 kg of reinforcing fiber (polypropylene fiber), which significantly increases strength and, as a result, service life;
- 700 grams of powder dye (the amount depends on the desired color saturation), if you want to make paving slabs of various shades;
- 15-17 liters of water, with a plasticizer pre-dissolved in it.
The sequence for preparing the mixture is as follows:
- carefully sift the sand;
- mix sand with cement;
- add fine gravel and fiberglass;
- Add water in small portions, continuing to stir constantly.
The consistency of the mixture should be quite thick, but at the same time easily spreadable in shape. The solution for paving slabs is completely ready for use.
Attention! If you strictly follow the technology and proportions for preparing the mixture, the paving slabs will quality characteristics will not be inferior to factory samples.
If desired, do colored tiles, powder dye must be added at the initial stage, mixing it with sand. You can also paint the finished tiles using a spray gun, since it is this that allows you to apply the paint evenly.
Compacting the mass and initial drying of products in molds
We place the prepared and greased forms on the vibrating table, fill them ready-made mixture(excess can be removed with a trowel) and begin the vibration process, which lasts exactly as long as it takes until the air (voids) are completely removed from the solution (approximately 5-10 minutes).
After concrete mixture compacted, put the products in the molds in a dry place under a canopy and cover with plastic wrap to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture. Pre-drying of paving slabs takes 1-2 days, provided that the air temperature is at least 15 °C.
Product removal and final drying
After the initial drying, carefully knock the finished products out of the molds with a rubber mallet onto a previously prepared soft surface (for example, a camping mat or an old blanket). To facilitate the process of stripping, the mold can be lowered into a container with hot water at a temperature of about 45-50 °C for 2-3 minutes.
Then we place the blanks in a dry place protected from sunlight for one to two weeks (the longer the better).
The whole cycle is repeated many times until you do required amount for your project. Now you understand that making paving slabs at home is a fun, uncomplicated and low-budget process.
In custody
The quality of the work performed will depend only on the materials used and strict adherence to the process sequence. The decades-tested technology for manufacturing paving slabs allows owners suburban areas not only significantly save money when arranging paths, recreation areas or parking spaces, but also give the site a unique look in accordance with personal tastes and preferences.
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Paths in a personal or garden plot, paved with paving slabs, are functional and aesthetic. Pavers are strong, durable, easy to maintain and attractive. But the cost of such coverage, if we are talking about purchasing several dozen square meters tiles are significant. Therefore, craftsmen, in order to save money, using technologies available for home conditions, have been successfully making paving slabs with their own hands for several years.
The quality of paving slabs depends on adherence to technology and the correct recipe
Technology selection
There are two ways to produce paving slabs:
- vibration pressing;
- vibration casting.
The first method for producing tiles at home is not suitable by definition - there is nothing with which to press. And making high-quality paving stones with your own hands using the vibration casting method is quite possible.
Manufacturers offer the following types of molds for the production of paving stones:
- polyurethane – allow you to make up to 100 molding revolutions;
- made of plastic – up to 250 rpm;
- made of plastic rubber - more than 500 cycles.
The price of products depends on the number of molding cycles, therefore high price rubber and plastic molds involves their use in the production of large volumes of tiles, and polyurethane products are quite accessible to the average buyer. By purchasing 5 molds, you can make 500 pieces of paving slabs with your own hands, and with careful handling you can make even more.
Molds for casting tiles
Molding templates for making paving stones
For casting paving slabs “on site”, template molds are used in the form of a frame of partitions, reminiscent of a honeycomb irregular shape, which you can buy or make yourself. Having laid such a frame on a properly prepared base, the honeycombs are filled with concrete. After a few hours, the template is removed, and instead of honeycombs, ready-made flat concrete fragments remain on the base, between which only the seams need to be arranged.
In addition, if paving stones are planned to be laid, for example, on auxiliary paths garden plot, and the requirements for it are low, then the molds for casting such tiles can be made with your own hands.
To make paving stones, first of all you need to stock up on special molds for casting
Self-production of casting molds
DIY paving slabs.
The universal format of paving slabs is a square with a side of 30 cm. This size provides the necessary strength when working in bending and is convenient for cutting the product in half or into 4 parts when you need to adjust the material. Therefore, from smoothly planed wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60 x 30 mm, you need to make a frame with your own hands internal dimensions 30 x 30 cm and 60 mm deep. It is better to assemble the frame using self-tapping screws, which later, when removing the frozen product, will be easy to unscrew and then return to its place.
To form a pattern on the front side of future paving slabs, choose an elastic base with a corrugated surface, for example, a rubber mat with a large pattern, and place the mold frame on it.
Before molding the sides, the frames and the shaped base are coated with a thin layer of kitchen dishwashing gel using a brush.
To ensure that the process of making tiles with your own hands does not drag on for months or years, you need to make at least 10 molds.
Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive process.
Disposable ones can be used as molds for small format paving slabs. plastic containers for packaging various products, filling them with a solution to a fixed depth. The turnover of such “forms” is 5-10 cycles, but this is compensated by the insignificant cost of used boxes.
Technology for manufacturing paving slabs using vibration casting method
This method consists of pouring cement-based mortar into special forms with simultaneous or subsequent compaction of the contents by vibration.
Vibration casting can be produced using single-layer and two-layer technology.
Single layer method
Single-layer technology consists of filling the molds with a solution, compacting them on a vibrating table, followed by keeping the products in the molds for two days and removing the formwork. The strength and aesthetics of such tiles are lower than those of two-layer paving stones made by vibration casting, so they are used for paving utility areas that do not require high aesthetics.
Making vibropressed paving slabs is easier than making vibrocast ones
Double-layer vibration casting
When pouring in two layers, a solution with a coloring pigment is poured into the molds in a layer of 1-2 cm while simultaneously vibrating. On top of the colored solution, without waiting for the front layer to set, the composition of the base layer without dye is poured flush with the edges of the molds and subjected to vibration for 15-30 seconds. After 2 days, the products are removed from the molds and stored for drying in a cool place.
Regardless of the number of layers, the forms filled with mortar are covered with plastic film to prevent premature evaporation of moisture and partial loss of strength of the paving stones.
The purpose of the facing layer is to increase the strength characteristics and aesthetics of paving slabs. This layer is a durable shell with a glossy surface, painted in the selected color by adding a dye to the solution. If instead of gray cement M500 is used white cement the same brand, then the colored front layer can be made saturated, without a gray tint.
Making your own mortar for paving stones is economical option
Components of face concrete
To make the front layer durable, uniform and glossy, the solution must include the following materials:
- cement M500 (preferably white);
- crushed stone (granite, marble, gravel) fraction 5-10 mm;
- sifted sand in the ratio;
- water;
- color;
- dispersant.
Concrete recipe for forming the face layer
When mixing the front layer, the weight ratio of the amount of cement and AHP is 1:2.
Using the example of a specific operation, we will consider the procedure for mixing the face layer solution in a concrete mixer. 10 liters of water are poured into the mixer, to which dye is first added in the case of the production of colored paving stones. Then pour in 750 grams of an aqueous dispersant solution, turn on the concrete mixer and sequentially fill in 3 buckets of ACHPS and Portland cement M500. After mixing for a minute, 3 more buckets of screenings are added to the concrete mixer.
Concrete is mixed in a concrete mixer in a certain sequence
Mixing is carried out for 15-20 minutes until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, after which the mass is transferred from the concrete mixer to the tub, and molding can be done.
The amount of color in the solution should be no more than 5% of the batch volume. The proportion used must be remembered in case you need to make additional batches.
Forming the face layer of tiles in a mold
After lubricating the inner surface of the molds, the prepared solution is spread into them in a layer of 1-2 cm and compacted by vibration. In the absence of a vibrating table, you can get by by installing the molded products on a sheet of iron and tapping from below rubber mallet. Particularly savvy craftsmen use for vibration washing machine, on which forms are placed when the centrifuge is operating in spin mode.
The main difference between paving stones and paving slabs is their shape
Base layer solution components
In the formulation of the solution forming the main layer, the dispersant is replaced by a plasticizer. In the process of preparing the solution, one part of M500 cement is mixed with three parts of crushed stone-sand mixture. The plasticizer is added in the same amount as the dispersant to the front layer.
How to mix concrete to pour the base layer
Let's consider the technology for producing a specific portion of the solution using a concrete mixer.
750 grams of an aqueous solution of plasticizer are stirred in 12 liters of water, after which 5 buckets of AHP and 3 buckets of Portland cement M500 are sequentially poured into a running mixer with liquid, after which another 3-4 buckets of screenings are added. There is no need to color the base material of paving slabs. The concrete is mixed for about a quarter of an hour and, upon reaching the consistency of sour cream, is discharged into the tub.
To mix concrete per 1 square meter at home. paving stones 6 cm thick, you will need:
- Crushed stone-sand mixture – 90 kg;
- Cement M500 – 25 kg;
- Dispersant – 120 grams;
- Plasticizer – 100 grams;
- Dye – 600-800 grams.
Reinforcement of paving stones and pouring the base layer
To increase the strength of the tiles, you can reinforce the product yourself. Ideally suited as reinforcement would be a “cut-out” (expanded steel sheet) cut to size, made from steel sheet 1 or 2 mm thick. The grooved pieces are laid on top of the mortar of the tile face and covered with concrete flush with the edges of the forms. Reinforcement of products at home can also be done using pieces of thick wire or smooth rolled reinforcement placed crosswise, or steel mesh.
To ensure the solidity of the tile, the filling of the second layer is carried out no later than 20 minutes after the formation of the first.
After compacting the solution by vibrating, the molds are laid on a horizontal surface in a cool place for two days until the concrete hardens.
Modern paving slabs are suitable for arranging urban or suburban courtyards
Stripping molds and removing tiles
If the mold is made with your own hands from wooden blocks, then the fastening screws are unscrewed at one of the joints, after which the frame is moved apart and the product is released. The paving stones are given another 10 days to gain strength and dry, laying the tiles in one layer in a cool room.
If polyurethane molds were used to produce the tiles, then the mold with the product is placed in a bath of warm (60 degrees) water for a couple of minutes to soften the polymer, after which the tile is removed and also placed in a cool place for 10 days until it is finally ready for use.
Considering that the tile must be in the mold for two days, you can, having 10 molds at your disposal, daily remove 5 finished products and make 5 further molds.