Lathe opens up great opportunities for the master, and, first of all, this is the creation of various blanks of rounded shapes, created by rotating the blank itself around a certain axis of rotation. In this article we will describe one of the options for a lathe made on the basis conventional drill.
Introduction
On a wood lathe you can make various workpieces and finished goods– these are various sticks, cylinders, plates, barrels, etc., which can be used in construction, repair, in the manufacture of various decorative items, modeling, etc. Buying a large lathe is a troublesome and expensive matter. Below is an option self-made such a machine from scrap materials. The entire creation process is divided into operations and for each of them there are photo comments, and at the end there is a full video of the entire process. Making a homemade lathe using a video will greatly simplify understanding of the idea and technological solutions. At the end of the article there are drawings of a do-it-yourself lathe.
Original idea
The originality of the idea lies in the fact that our homemade lathe will be made on the basis of what was previously described (see article “”), and also on the basis of the same drilling machine, you can create two other machines, which are described in the articles:
They also describe in detail all the technological operations of creation, there are photos and videos. Thus, it turns out that all four machines have one common base - this is quite convenient, universal and unified.
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If necessary, having all the components at hand, you can assemble or disassemble the required one as needed. this moment machine.
Preparing for work
You need to prepare for the work so that it doesn’t turn out that when you get to half of all the work, it turns out that something has been forgotten, missed or missing. Therefore, we recommend that you first read the material in this article and check the availability of all necessary materials, tools and technological equipment. For this purpose, when describing the manufacturing process, everything is described in detail and broken down into operations.
Tool
To make a wood lathe from a drill, you will need the following tool:
- or .
- Jigsaw.
- Bulgarian (if correct, then angle Sander(angle grinder).
- or drill.
- Grinding machine.
- Hand tools: clamps, screwdriver, hammer, square, marking pencil etc.
Material and components
To make a woodworking machine with your own hands you will need following materials and components:
- Plywood 15 mm.
- Pine massif;
- Wing nut;
- Fastening: M6 bolt, self-tapping screws of various lengths.
Main structural elements
The design of a homemade lathe based on a drill consists of the following parts:
- Base:
- Frame;
- Spindle box;
- Headstock and tailstock;
- Tool rest with carriage;
- Drill.
Making a lathe
To describe the entire process of creating a wood lathe with your own hands, we will highlight several stages and group the work according to structural elements. This description will contain photos and video materials.
Base (frame and spindle box)
As mentioned above, part of the design was used from what was previously described. Therefore, in this material we will not do this again, and simply suggest opening the article “” - everything is described in detail there.
Thus, we believe that the frame and spindle box are ready and look like this.
Headstock and tailstock
Both headstocks are power elements, so they will require greater strength. To ensure this, it is necessary to glue not even two, but three layers for one workpiece. The overall dimensions of both headstocks are 120 x 160 mm.
Next, you need to give the required shape to the blanks to get full-fledged parts. Drawings of all parts are collected in the section “Conclusion / Drawings of blanks”. This can be done either on or on any other. The end result is details like these.
Now you need to assemble guides measuring 100 x 40 x 30 mm to them, namely, glue and reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws. It is best to do the marking and alignment “in place”, that is, we take two bars of the indicated sizes and install them in middle part frames, apply glue and install headstocks on them, level them and fix them with clamps.
Now you need to install the headstocks and secure them. To do this, you need to drill holes for the screw in the guides, install them in the design position, insert the screw from below, install the clamping bar and tighten the screw from above with a nut. The nut can be winged with a small handle.
Next, we drill holes in both parts, but in one headstock we drill a hole for the center (a simple through hole), and in the other headstock, in addition to a simple through hole, we make (you can use) seats (not through ones!!!) for two bearings with both sides of the workpiece.
Now you need to make the center and spindle. To make both parts we will use an M8 or M10 threaded rod. To make both the center and the spindle, the pin needs to be sharpened.
Then we assemble the spindle - screw on the locknut, then the extension nut, which we attached special type crowns and lock them so that the edges of the teeth of the extension nut are flush with the tip of the sharpened pin (spindle shaft). Then we install the pin into the bearings and one end into the drill chuck.
To prevent the stud from accidentally coming out of the seat, you need to install two locked nuts in the area from the cartridge to the first bearing. Moreover, these nuts must be close to the bearing.
Now let's start making the center for the tailstock. As mentioned above, we sharpened its end. To feed it (rotate) you can do small circle from, for example, using a (crown) and press in the wing nut.
We screw the pin into it and lock it with a nut.
Podruchnik
The handrail serves for support cutting tool(incisors). Its strength is important, as well as simplicity and flexibility in changing position for greater ease of use.
The tool rest consists of four main parts:
- Bed;
- Carriage;
- Beam with slot;
- Clamping plate with bolt.
Manufacturing of parts
To make a stock, you need to take a blank measuring 160 x 100 mm and cut out the required shape on a machine.
The slotted beam is made from a block measuring 230 x 40 x 30 mm. The slot must be made on a machine with a length of 105 mm.
A clamping bar with a bolt is used from - it fixed it there drill table, so we won’t describe it.
Assembly
Thus, we get the assembled tool rest.
After installing it, our homemade lathe is ready.
... and you can start working on the machine.
Conclusion
Bottom line
We made it with our own hands and attached photos of all technological operations! If you follow all the instructions described above, you will get indispensable tool, which will rightfully take its rightful place in your workshop.
Overall dimensions of the machine
Here is a table with overall dimensions homemade lathe from an electric drill:
Blank drawings
Here is a drawing of the details of the homemade one described above.
Video
Video on which this material was made:
A homemade lathe for woodworking is a very useful thing for a true craftsman’s home; with its help you can make a variety of useful or simply beautiful things
The summer before last I made a wood lathe. Some design flaws and I will fix them next summer in the workshop (in a rebuilt barn at the dacha, by the way, look at what beautiful fireplace for the dacha you can do it yourself, as well as homemade solar collector For summer cottage). Dimensions of the machine; length 800 mm, width 400 mm, height 350 mm. Allows you to sharpen workpieces with a diameter of up to 250 mm and a length of up to 200 mm (on a faceplate, i.e. without centering with a tailstock) and with centering with a tailstock up to 400 mm. General view photo 1.
A homemade wood lathe consists of:
In the manufacture of a lathe, ordinary metalworking tools were used:
- drill with drill bits
- files
- small angle grinder (grinder with cutting and cleaning discs)
- electric welding machine with 3 mm and 2 mm electrodes.
Purchased from the construction market metallic profile(channel) and a corner, some pipes of two diameters (so that one pipe fits into the other), a 40 mm strip and a 20 mm strip. only for the amount of 600 rubles. Photo 2. The necessary fasteners were found in the garage. I purchased a drive belt from some machine separately (to fit the length).
The headstock from the sharpener met all the parameters - a high-mounted axis of rotation, protected thrust bearings on the axis, four alloy washers for fastening abrasive discs. Replaceable disks are attached to two washers on the left side to change the rotation speed, and on the right side there is a faceplate for installing the blank (also made from one of the washers)
The photo also shows part of the drill (an old burnt Soviet one) - a chuck and a metal body. This is precisely the most unfinished component of the machine.
Disadvantages: the stand is rather weak, there is no lead screw for moving the headstock (I moved it with a lever and secured with a nut). The chuck itself is comfortable and allows forces along the chuck axis by default.
Photo 4 shows a bed with a support. It can move along the frame and across it, and is fixed with a wing nut. On the support there is a stand (pipe in a pipe) for adjusting the height of the stop bar for the cutters.
To select the diameters of the pulleys (i.e., change the rotation speed of the workpiece), a graph (found on the Internet) was used - the dependence of the rotation speed on the diameter of the workpiece and the hardness of the wood. Two frequencies are selected that overlap each other. In addition, for some small jobs with hard wood, you can use a sharpener motor, i.e. with the drive turned off (removing the belt and turning off the motor). This way I can set three rotation speeds - 800, 2000, 3000 rpm. , practically covering my needs.
In the photo we see a rubberized cartridge on the axis of the electric motor, which plays the role of a drive pulley, two driven pulleys (each made of two layers of ten-millimeter plywood) and a faceplate with holes for screws securing the workpiece. The faceplate is simply screwed onto the sharpener axis (i.e., the headstock) after installing the blank.
To mount the motor, a platform is made of thick plywood, and the headstock stands on it (thereby increasing the possibility of turning larger diameter). To adjust the belt tension, the motor stands on a small plate (no photo), which has the ability to move along the platform and be fixed on it. As a rule, professionals who have chosen this job or hobby make the equipment themselves - cutters different types. I bought ready-made and inexpensive ones for the first time - five cutters for 350 rubles each.
Our article is devoted to nostalgia for school labor training workshops. Many people know how to do wood turning, but not everyone can afford to buy and maintain equipment for this. Is it possible to assemble a machine with your own hands that meets technology and safety requirements? Let’s figure it out together.
What GOST says
The good news is that you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The entire assembly process and drawings of each machine module are described in TU3872-477-02077099-2002, and although open access This document is not available; it can be obtained upon individual request. Although this is unlikely to be needed: the device of the machine is so primitive that you can easily navigate the intricacies of its manufacture even from images from school textbooks.
Another positive fact is that the STD-120M was apparently designed for on-site production, so you can either find almost all components for assembly on sale or make and modify it yourself. Naturally, if you have the opportunity to inexpensively purchase components for this machine or its younger brother TD-120, do so. Factory-produced parts are more reliable, easier to adjust, and the unified frame design allows you to assemble one machine from many donors.
Please also note that standardization of modules largely determines the safety of equipment operation. The basic principles of industrial safety are stated in GOST 12.2.026.0-93, and the rules of electrical protection are set out in GOST R IEC 60204-1. Harmonize any part or machine module you manufacture with these standards.
Manufacturing of the bed
Instead of a cast iron frame, we offer a lighter welded structure. It consists of two pieces of 72-gauge angle steel, each 1250 mm long. There is a great temptation to make the bed larger to process more massive products, but remember that such changes require intervention in other components of the machine. Perhaps you should take the TT-10460 as a sample for a meter-long workpiece.
We place the corners on a flat horizontal plane with shelves facing each other. We insert calibrated inserts between them so that the frame guides are positioned strictly parallel with a distance of 45 mm. To fasten the guides, we use two corners, the same as on the frame, 190 mm each, which we place on the front and rear edges. Before welding parts, it is recommended to squeeze them with clamps so that the metal does not move when cooling.
The guides are fastened with another 190 mm jumper, in the bottom shelf of which there are cutouts for each corner. This part is installed to form a cell, the dimensions exactly corresponding to the landing pin of the headstock, in standard version this is 45x165 mm.
Such a frame can be attached in any way to a workbench or deck, but it is recommended to weld all fastening elements without compromising the integrity of the base. If a separate corner is allocated for the machine, weld pipe legs perpendicular to the corners of the frame and, for greater stability, make a small “brace” for them with a sledgehammer. Ultimately, the weight of the frame attached to the workbench should not be less than 60-70 kg.
Podruchnik
This element conditionally consists of two parts. For both, you need one type of workpiece - a 50 mm corner, inside of which another, 30 mm wide, is inserted. They are welded along the edges, in the end you should get two sections of 260 and 600 mm.
The short part is the adjustable base of the hand rest. One of the shelves is cut off, but not completely, leaving a 110 mm long section with an inclined cut. The other shelf is cut at a right angle 60 mm from the rear edge. You need to make a counter frame from a thick steel plate that will clamp the guide of the tool rest.
To make a guide with a clamp, take a regular inch pipe and make a longitudinal cut in it with a grinder. The resulting sleeve should be about 150 mm long; we insert it into a 25 mm corner, orienting the slot outward perpendicular to one of the shelves. We tighten the parts with a clamp and weld along the entire length closest to the shelf slot. We cover the workpiece with a second corner of the same length and attach it to the tube from the back side.
The guide is welded flat to the protruding flange of the adjustment rail on its inner side. For fixation, a screw with a long handle and a nut welded to the rail are used. On the reverse side, the strike plate is fastened with a cotter pin or even a welded rod.
The hand rest is mounted on a 20 mm smooth reinforcement rod, which is located in the center with outside corner blanks. The rod fits tightly into the tube of the guide system, and when the screw is tightened, it is securely pressed on all sides. A long corner piece 600 mm long is welded to the rod with a slight inclination toward itself and a slightly “sharpened” leading edge.
Drive and transmission
The standard drive option is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of up to 2 kW (usually 1.2 kW), connected to the headstock shaft by a V-belt drive on two-belt pulleys. The bed for fastening the engine can be located between the legs of the frame, or on an additional scaffold behind the headstock, which will complicate the assembly, but will make it more convenient to transfer the belt.
It is not always possible to use the engine at the required shaft speed, so reaching the final speed is achieved by adjusting the diameter of the pulleys. For example, if you have a blood pressure at 1480 rpm, then in order to reach the coveted 1100 and 2150 rpm, the diameters of the leading and driven streams must be in a ratio of 1:1.5 and 1.3:1.
When placing the engine, it is useful to provide the frame with a plate attached to the gate canopies. An engine installed using such a system will be in a suspended state all the time and will ensure that the belt is tightly pressed by its own weight. And if you equip the platform with a pedal, the speed can be changed even on the go.
There are no problems with the electrical part either. Switching is performed by a standard three-phase starting button with reverse; for such a low-power motor there is no need to install a starter. The only thing is turning on the brakes DC while holding down the stop button, for which you will need a powerful diode bridge (on KD203D) according to standard scheme inclusions.
The frequency-controlled motor can be used as a direct drive, eliminating the need to construct the headstock. To do this, you need to fix the engine on the transition platform, in the lower part of which there is a longitudinal mounting spike 45 mm wide as a standard means of adjustment for the STD120 frame.
Headstock
Looking ahead, we note that both the front and tailstock include parts that can only be made with access to a metal lathe. Otherwise, it makes sense to think about purchasing ready-made modules, or at least their cast consoles.
At the base of the headstock there are two bearing housings of types S, V or U, permanently mounted on an angle steel frame. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which sizes will be available, but in general, the height of the spindle axis above the bed should be at least 120 mm. Given that the diameter of the spindle shaft is about 25 mm, the most interesting would be the standard size of the bearing unit with a total height dimension of about 70 mm.
The shaft is machined from round carbon steel with a diameter of 40 mm with a tolerance of no more than 0.05 mm. There are two main variations of the shaft. The first is the simplest: the shaft pillar remains in the center, then descents are made to the landing diameter of the bearing units, then threads are cut at the ends. For axial fixation, four grooves are machined on the shaft for retaining rings.
1 — seats for bearings; 2 — grooves for retaining rings
The second variation has an extension in the form of a skirt immediately behind the cartridge thread. It is designed to install a flanged thrust bearing mounted on the boss of the headstock base. This approach allows you to reduce bearing wear if massive parts are processed on the machine.
The base of the headstock is two pairs of corners or two channels turned towards each other. By moving the vertical shelves together, you can adjust the height of the base to the axial height of the existing bearing units. A 45 mm strip is welded to the base below, which acts as an adjustment groove. The order of assembly is important: first, bearings are pressed onto the spindle, then the shaft is mounted on a frame with a backing of adjusting steel plates.
Tailstock
Making a tailstock is much easier. It consists of four parts:
- The base is made from angle steel, 100mm high, using the same principle as for the headstock. Two 50 mm corners are bolted across the top; in their shelves in the center there are cutouts with squares 40 mm wide.
- The guide (external) thick-walled square tube is 40 mm wide, 150 mm long and has an internal clearance of 20x20 mm. In the rear part you need to install a plug 6-8 mm thick and with a hole in the center of 8 mm, it is secured with two screws through the walls of the tube.
- The inner tube, also known as the quill, is made from a 20 mm profile tube, preferably thick-walled and milled exactly to fit the guide clearance. An M14 nut is welded in the rear part of the quill; a metal rod, widened to 5 mm, is inserted and welded into the front part, widened to 5 mm to fit a double-row bearing.
- The drive screw has a thread for a nut in the quill (it is advisable to make it trapezoidal); in the rear part there is a transition to an 8 mm thread for attaching the flywheel.
The principle of operation and assembly diagram of the quill are quite obvious, but Special attention You need to pay attention to aligning the axes. The guide tube, fixed by welding in the cutouts of the corners, can rise higher or lower due to linings made of transformer steel. The headstock and tailstock must be absolutely aligned, the tolerance is only a couple of tenths.
As for the method of attachment to the frame, it is the same for both the headstocks and the tool rest. M14 or M16 studs are welded to the bottom of the headstocks, and a large plowshare bolt is inserted into the slot of the tool rest. The modules are tightened from below with nuts with rods welded to them like levers. For uniform, tight pressing from below, a 50 mm channel is placed as a counter strip.
There are two methods of woodworking - manual and mechanized. The advantage of manual processing is the ability to produce parts of any size and shape, but this requires the appropriate skills. A lathe allows you to significantly speed up technological process, besides, such equipment can be made with your own hands.
In this article we will look at the principle of operation and design of the above-mentioned wood cutting machine. The advantages and disadvantages of this technique will be studied and given step-by-step instruction for its own production.
1 Is it rational to buy a lathe for your home workshop?
Craftsmen accustomed to manual processing of wood products should take into account that the use of a machine introduces a number of restrictions on the shape of the resulting structures. On a lathe you can make all kinds of cylindrical and round shape, while working with flat and square parts will require a router.
Using an automatic wood lathe, you will significantly increase the productivity of woodworking, which is especially important when organizing a small production house - this will not only save time, but also reduce the cost of a single unit of production.
Modern turning units are suitable for processing not only wood, but also some soft metals - you can design crafts from copper, bronze, and aluminum. The range of such equipment on the market is extremely extensive; manufacturers offer both professional models with advanced functionality and simple equipment for home use.
However, you have to pay for everything, and the price of a turning wall can be a barrier to purchasing it. There are three ways to save money: the first is to buy a cheap Chinese one (not recommended due to the low maintainability of such equipment), buy a used Soviet-made machine, or design such a unit yourself.
If you have not done woodworking before and want to try your hand, considering it solely as a hobby, it is best to make a woodworking machine with your own hands. Such equipment will not be able to compete with modern factory units, but it will be possible to make small products from it without any problems. soft rocks tree.
1.1 Design and principle of operation
Before starting assembly homemade machine you need to figure out how it works. As an example, consider a standard design of factory-produced equipment, the diagram of which is shown in the image below.
The diagram shows the following structural elements:
- base - the “foundation” of the machine, providing it with stability and absence of vibrations, as a rule, it is a steel plate in which holes are provided for mounting anchors;
- bed - a frame on which the main parts of the structure are fixed (in cheap equipment it is made of aluminum, in more expensive models it is made of steel or cast iron);
- electric motor - imparts rotation to the workpiece being processed;
- belt drive and protective casing hiding it;
- control unit with ON/OFF buttons and speed control;
- support panel (handle), acting as a stop for cutters during woodworking;
- back and front headstock.
The main executive elements are the front and rear headstocks. The workpiece being processed is fixed between them, and rotation from the electric motor shaft is transmitted through the headstock of the part.
The design of the tailstock does not imply that it has any functions. The tailstock is a regular holder with a point at the end that rests on the workpiece and prevents it from sagging. The tailstock is moved by a manual screw drive.
It is also possible to equip a lathe additional accessories, thereby significantly expanding it functionality. Among the auxiliary elements, the most useful are:
- trident - a chuck reinforced with teeth, which is installed instead of a regular spindle when problems arise with scrolling the workpiece when grinding it down;
- baluster - central support which supports long workpieces and prevents them from sagging.
The copier deserves special attention - a device that greatly facilitates production large quantity similar products. The task of the copier is to direct the machine cutter along a strictly specified path, which ensures that there is no difference in the shape and size of the products.
If you need a wood lathe with a copier, we recommend paying attention to products from such manufacturers as Interskop, Jett and Enkor. It is impossible to make such a unit at home due to the increased complexity of its design. An average wood lathe costs at least 50-60 thousand rubles.
1.2 Making a lathe with your own hands (video)
To do turning equipment You will need to purchase an electric motor and cutters with your own hands; all other parts of the structure will be made from scrap materials. As an inexpensive drive, you can use a motor from Soviet Elektronika cassette recorders; when disassembling the tape recorder, you will find a power supply, we will also need it.
Such a motor will be enough for a mini-turner, allowing you to process a variety of small wooden items. If you need a more powerful machine, then it is best to make it from a regular drill - you can find special holders on the market that turn the drill into full-fledged turning equipment. However, a lathe from a drill is extremely different high level noise during operation, which makes it little practical for domestic use.
The manufacture of the machine begins with cutting out a casing for the electric motor from a sheet of metal 1-2 mm thick. It is necessary to drill a hole in the plate for the shaft, after which the casing is bent into a U-shape.
Used as a supporting frame wooden block, the supports for the engine and tailstock are made from it. Since we are using a low-power engine, there should not be any special vibrations during its operation, this allows the use of cheap materials - a board 2-3 cm thick and a few screws will be enough. After cutting the board, the spare parts are connected to each other and a casing with an electric motor is screwed to the side support. You can close the casing from above with a regular piece of cardboard or a piece of plywood adjusted to size.
For the tailstock we will use a stack of square pieces of wood joined together using PVA glue. The resulting square is attached to the support using 4 self-tapping screws - two on top and two on the bottom.
Next, a straight rod is placed on the motor pulley and inside The square marks the place for the workpiece holder, the function of which will be performed by a self-tapping screw of suitable length. In the future, you will need to take care of finding a holder for the motor pulley; for such a compact lathe, a regular faceplate is perfect.
The resulting machine has an extremely simple design and small in size. Its length is only 23 cm, it is silent and cheap to install, as it is made exclusively from scrap materials. For serious tasks the power of such equipment will not be enough, but it can easily cope not only with small wooden parts, but also with soft metals - tin, aluminum.
If necessary, such a unit can be re-equipped by making a mini-emery machine or polishing machine out of it. To do this, it is necessary to attach an appropriate disk - abrasive or polishing - to the pulley cushion.
Now you can buy a lathe for wood and metal to suit every taste (and at any cost). Of course, many of the most modern and additional functions are added to the machine (which are most often not needed).
I don’t argue that a lathe is very necessary and useful thing for the workshop, but in 90% of cases it is not worth the money spent on it.
We want to help you save your finances. Why buy a model with many unnecessary functions if you can make a standard simple model yourself?
Wood lathe materials
The design itself consists of the following parts (see picture)
- The bed is the basis for the machine, usually made of metal and consists of several connected beams.
- Transverse U-shaped beam.
- Electric motor – serves as a power source for correct movement around its axis (single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 Watt are suitable).
- Scroll chuck.
- Tailstock support.
- An element that rotates.
- Support for a workpiece or tool.
- Support for the tool rest.
- Guide beams.
- Angle, post, or support for the tailstock.
- Clip.
- Metal plate for support.
- Cross guide detail.
- Screws for fastening.
- Support axis.
Wood lathe step by step instructions
First of all, you don’t have to buy a new motor, but take a used one; it will cost you much less. 
The elements are fixed to the base (No. 1 according to the figure) 2 U-shaped beams are connected by welding to two transverse ones (No. 2 according to the figure).
The guides on top are additionally fixed with two corners (No. 10 in the figure), which are secured to the main surface.
The engine (No. 3 in the figure) is attached to the side and the headstock is secured. 
As the basis of the tailstock, you should use a rotating center (buy a part from a commercial version), attach it to the support (No. 5 according to the figure) and weld it on the platform (No. 12 according to the figure)
The stop (No. 5) is made from a corner and attached to the support (No. 8), which itself is attached to the holder. The stop and holder are threaded onto the support axis (No. 15) and then welded to the guide beams. 
The same stop (No. 5) and the rotating element (No. 6) are fixed on metal plates (No. 12) that contain special moving clips (No. 11).
Please note that the stop and tailstock are moving elements that should move along the guides (No. 9) without any problems.
To ensure that the moving elements are well attached to the clips, preliminary holes are made in the clips (No. 14) and the slightest inaccuracy reduces the quality of operation of the entire device. 
The welding itself may lead to deformation of the material - first all materials are held together spot welding, and then carry out the full work.
Wood lathe video
Metal lathe materials
To make such a tool you will need:
- Metal sheet;
- U - shaped metal beams;
- Steel strips;
- Steel corners;
- Electrical engine;
- Transmission mechanism;
- Several nuts and bolts for fastening;
- Bulgarian;
Separately, it is worth mentioning about the engine, it does not have to be new, you can limit yourself to an old or used one, its power should be 2 kW with a number of revolutions per minute within 2000. Although this depends more on the level of your work on this machine.
The more massive the workpieces, the more powerful the engine must be if you want to make compact machine With low power– even a motor from a washing machine or electric drill will do.
As for the transmission mechanism, you can find it online or buy it from friends old box gears and remove the clutch from the gearbox. Thus, you will get a mechanism that creates several speeds for your machine. And if you install an additional pulley, you can improve the number of revolutions.
Metal lathe step by step instructions
The installation should begin by using steel corners and a U-shaped beam, from which (1 corner and 1 beam) you need to weld a frame for the base.
To do this you need to wedge the base. Guides are assembled from square pipes and steel strips.
In addition to this their metal sheet They make a box for the fist chuck; after installation, adjustable bearings are placed in it.
The tailstock must be welded from a corner and a thick plate, the support of which will be the guides.
The headstock should move easily and freely along the guides. Weld nuts to the top of the headstock (to secure the supporting center).
The sharpened cone should be mounted into the beam, while maintaining maximum accuracy. Such a cone can be made from any bolt that suits your size.
After this, the entire structure is assembled, the spindle is checked for ease of rotation, and the front and rear centers are adjusted to create a level axis.
Now you know that building a machine for wood or metal is quite possible and requires little knowledge and effort from you, and at the same time it will cost you much less (and even if it breaks, you can fix it yourself).
In general, making such a machine will help you even if you do not often do such work; only such mechanisms are very bulky and you need a place to store them (or you can make “pocket” models).
Metal lathe video