Do-it-yourself point drainage. We make drainage on the site with our own hands. Do-it-yourself methods for draining water from the house: some practical tips

If your site is located in a lowland or level groundwater very high, then without the construction of even the simplest drainage system it will not be possible to get rid of dampness. Of course, if you do everything using technology, the costs will be very high, but there are simpler options that will cost you pennies. At the same time, their effectiveness has been tested for decades, and you can be sure that your work will not be in vain and your dacha will become dry.

System options

I'll tell you how to organize water drainage at your dacha with two different ways. Despite the fact that they are different, they are united by two factors: extreme low cost of implementation and the ability to carry out the work on their own, since everything is simple and clear. You just need to read the information and choose the option that is better suited to your conditions and will be more convenient to use.

Open system

Let's figure out how to make an open drainage system on the site. This option is good for those who suffer from precipitation and decide to make a system for quick and effective water drainage.

You can do the job without using any materials, but to improve the result and make our drainage more reliable, you can use the following:

Crushed stone, broken brick or concrete may be needed to reinforce the bottom of our canals. Your communications will not be washed out even during heavy rainfalls, which is important in areas with frequent and heavy rainfall;

If you want to make the system even more reliable, the easiest way is to line its walls with geotextile, this is the name of a special material that strengthens the walls of the channels and at the same time allows moisture to pass through. With its help, you can protect the walls from sliding on weak soils, and also prevent the system from eroding over time. As for the cost, it ranges from 15 rubles per square meter.

By and large, the only tool we need is a shovel, and we will use it to make the entire system. For convenience, I would advise you to get a level so that when digging trenches you don’t get distracted by the slope and don’t make it too large, this is also not very good.

Let's move on to consider the workflow itself, it is performed in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to make a sketch of the area on paper, just draw a rectangle or a figure of a different shape if you have a piece of land of a different configuration. After this, you must figure out in which places water constantly accumulates and whether there is a natural slope of the level in one direction or another, this is very important, because if you figure everything out correctly, the work process will be greatly simplified;
If you have a ditch along the perimeter for Wastewater, it also needs to be applied. Sometimes it can pass from one or two sides, then you will have to make communications so that they go in a certain direction;
Next, we need to take measurements with a tape measure in order to accurately mark low spots and problem areas on our plan. There is no point in doing this by eye, since we will not be able to make an exact design, and in the process of work it will turn out that the system we conceived cannot be made due to certain interferences;

Based on all the information, a design of our drainage canals is made; they should consist of main highways and junctions, which for the greatest efficiency adjoin at an acute angle. As a result, the system resembles a Christmas tree and should be directed towards draining water from the boundaries of the site. Below is an example of a rather complex drainage from the site irregular shape, you can usually get by with a simpler configuration;

If the drainage ditch or ditches are clogged, then they must be deepened and cleaned; if the water has nowhere to go, then drainage will be of little use. Therefore, always start work from this part of the system, if necessary, strengthen its bottom with crushed stone, and the walls can be covered with old slate. Slate can also be used for channels on the site, if you have one;

Next, you need to move on to digging the axial elements of the system; they should have a depth of up to 50 centimeters; it is better to make the walls flat so that they do not collapse during the wet period of the year. The work is simple, but will take a lot of effort. It is important to remember that a slope of approximately 2-3 centimeters per meter must be maintained so that water leaves your area by gravity;

Next, all the branches are dug, and I recommend doing them from the main channel so that you can immediately make the desired slope. This is much easier than starting from the end and trying to get to the main line with the correct slope. It may turn out that the level difference will be large due to the significant length of the branch, there is nothing wrong with that, the main thing is that there is a drain, and it does not matter that at the end it will be very shallow;

To check the slopes, you can pour water into the trench from a hose; it should go where it is needed.

As I wrote above, to make the channel walls more reliable, they can be reinforced with geotextiles. Here the work is very simple: the material is laid out along all the channels so that it lies on the surface, where it is better to press it with bricks or stones. I recommend pouring a thin layer of crushed stone onto the bottom, then the material will be securely fixed and will not bunch up at the joints;

Of course, this option is very cheap and simple, but not everyone wants to have an extensive network of canals on their site, and moving between them without building masonry is not easy. Therefore, the second type of system is more rational and convenient.

Closed system

Drainage summer cottage without open channels requires the construction of pipelines, but I will talk about a cheaper solution, and first we will figure out what materials are required for this.

The only tool we need is a shovel, so there is no point in dwelling on this aspect.

Instructions on how to arrange closed drainage at the dacha looks like this:

First of all, as in the first case, you need to make a plan of the site on a real scale; it will also not be superfluous to take measurements so that you can see exactly where the water needs to be drained from and to;
Next, you should make a sketch of future communications, taking into account all the factors described above. Since the system will be closed, it can pass under paths and lawns, the main thing is to carefully disassemble and then assemble all the structures;
The next stage is digging trenches. They can have smooth walls, and their depth is usually from 25 to 50 cm, it all depends on the site and the groundwater level on it. When digging, do not forget about the slope, the water will move where the drain is directed, and if you forget about this factor, then there will be little benefit from the system;

Personally, when working, I throw a level into the trench from time to time to see if I'm doing everything as it should.

Next, the bottom of the channel is compacted, if you have crushed stone or gravel, you can fill it with a thin layer, if you have nothing, then you can do just that. Bottles with screwed caps are stacked in two rows close to each other along the entire length of the trench from beginning to end. If there is a film or roofing felt, then the bottles are covered on top, if not, then they are left as is;

Do not place bottles in one row; this is ineffective, as practice has shown. There is much more space between the two rows, and moisture is removed much better.

Lastly, the soil is poured in a thin layer, compacted, then backfilled to the very top and finally leveled. Do not press too hard so as not to damage the bottles; when tamping, they are slightly deformed, but there is still a space between them through which the water flows out.

The price of this design is zero rubles, but the benefits from it are enormous, many have already tried a simple solution with bottles, and I only heard good feedback. Therefore, if you want to get rid of water and do not want to spend a lot of money, then this option is for you.

If you need spot drainage in areas drainpipes, then you can take the same plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and stick the neck between the bottles in drainage channel, moisture will be removed very well.

Plastic can lie in the ground for up to 50 years, it does not emit harmful substances into the soil. Which is also an important factor.

Conclusion

You can make drainage in your dacha for practically nothing, the main thing is to follow all the above recommendations and not forget about slopes for unhindered water flow. The video in this article will tell you in even more detail some important aspects, and if you have questions and clarifications on the topic, write them in the comments under this review.

High humidity in your area is fraught with harmful consequences: water suppresses the root system of plant crops, which provokes their diseases and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Is it possible to avoid such problems? The best option to prevent them, install drainage in the dacha area. This procedure is not so complicated that you need to hire professional builders - you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the most in simple ways its arrangement.

Why is drainage needed?

Every summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his plot really need drainage? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your dacha area. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles in the area for a long time after rain, the ground dries out for a long time after watering or melting snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. To further verify this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if after a day it is full of water, proceed to arranging the system without hesitation.

But there are four more conditions under which drainage is required:

groundwater lies very high;
the dacha stands on dense clay soil;
the site is located on a pronounced slope or, conversely, in a lowland;
Your area experiences heavy rainfall regularly.

As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to delight you with their growth, paths not to become deformed, and your dacha not to be flooded, start construction work.

Types of systems: surface and deep site drainage

When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide what kind of system you need. It can be of two types.

Superficial – simplest option drainage His functional purpose– drain water that enters the land in the form of various precipitation, such as rain or snow. This system works great on flat terrain without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, water collected in ditches is either discharged into a special reservoir or simply evaporates. Surface system can be combined with traditional storm drainage.

Deep– drainage closed type. Such a system is needed if your site:

located on uneven terrain;
located on clay soil;
has high groundwater;
for any other reason is difficult to operate.

Deep drainage makes it possible to effectively protect not only vegetable and garden crops from increased moisture, but also the dacha itself and all utility rooms.

Advice. Since installing a deep drainage system requires serious ground work, it is recommended to do it before you start planting the main part of the crops. Even more best option, if possible, arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.

Preparatory work

Drainage – engineering structure, which is an extensive system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work you cannot start without a clear design of the drainage system.

The project must indicate the following points: location of all drainage trenches, water flow, diagram of vertical drainage sections, location of wells, depth of drains. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope relative to the top soil. Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all elements of the drainage system during its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.

An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and Supplies, which are necessary for installation work:

perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
drainage wells;
hacksaw;
tamping tool;
rail;
building level;
geotextile for drainage;
crushed stone;
sand;
shovel;
wheelbarrow for transporting earth and supplying building materials.

Construction of a surface drainage system

Performing this type of drainage is technically a simple process.

Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the dacha area: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water drainage.
Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
Lead the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.

Advice. To make sure your trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to adjust the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.

Place drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
Fill the trenches with various sizes of crushed stone on the geofabric: two-thirds - large grains, and one-third - small grains.
Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.

In the second case, the continuation of drainage construction after digging a trench looks like this:

Prepare plastic drainage trays.
Place a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Compact it well using a manual trench.
Place plastic trays in the trench.
Install sand traps.
Mount on trays decorative grilles– they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a more attractive appearance.

Deep drainage on clay soils and other difficult terrain

The algorithm for constructing a deep system in difficult areas is as follows:

As you can see, there is nothing unrealistic about installing a drainage system at a summer cottage, so don’t be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And don’t forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and garden crops and flooding of your own dacha.

Do-it-yourself drainage at the dacha: photo

It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists. However, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, you need to understand the types of drainage and various schemes its devices, as well as its purpose.

Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.

Types of drainage

In order to properly drain a site, it is necessary to analyze its types and understand the peculiarities of each one.

Drainage happens:

superficial;
deep.

Surface can be easily done with your own hands without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.

Note! It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.

The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground premises. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground parking lot or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.

Do-it-yourself surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rain inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.

There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.

Spot. Such a system consists of water collectors, which, in turn, are connected to the sewerage system. Water collection devices are usually installed under drains, in low spots and under taps.
Linear. This type of drainage is done using trays that are laid in a special way. The system resembles a canal that slopes towards a well. This is where moisture from rainfall comes in.

It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than another. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will no longer function properly. A well-organized drain serves well and does its job.

With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.

Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.

The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. It is both protective and decorative element simultaneously. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.

Linear drainage

The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was also used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.

The most common mistake when installing a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems need to, first of all, understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.

For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. IN difficult cases you will have to contact specialists.

It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists, however, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, it is necessary to understand the types of drainage and the various schemes of its design, as well as its purpose. Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.

Kinds

To begin with, we need to analyze its types and find out the features of each one.

Drainage happens:

superficial;
deep.

Surface drainage can be done without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.

It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.

Surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rainwater inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.

There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.

Such a system consists of water collectors, which, in turn, are connected to the sewerage system. Water collection devices are usually installed under drains, in low spots and under taps.
Linear. The system resembles a canal that slopes towards a well. This is where moisture from rainfall comes in.

With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.

Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.

The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. This is both a protective and decorative element at the same time. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.

Linear

The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.

Plastic or reinforced concrete trays are used for drainage. They are equipped with a grille on top that covers the gutter. The system has garbage collectors that make cleaning the trays easier.

Installation of such systems is necessary in cases where:

it is necessary to protect the foundation from rainwater;
there is a risk of soil erosion;
there is a need to remove moisture from sheds, garages and other structures located in lowlands;
to protect paths in garden and suburban areas.

Installing a water drain will not be a difficult procedure even for a beginner. Its structure is extremely clear.

Deep

Typically, both types of drainage are installed in areas: deep and surface. Such a drainage network will provide absolute protection from moisture.

Before installing a buried system, it is necessary to determine in which direction the water flows during rainstorms. This indicator is one of the most important.

If you make a mistake with the level of incline, you can harm yourself with your own work.

You can find out the direction of water flow without studying the area. To do this, just wait for the first downpour and see where the flows are heading.

General drainage scheme: a receiving well, drains and a collector that removes excess moisture.

Calculation and design always depend on the characteristics of each specific site. You cannot take and install the same system on everyone. Required somewhere additional funds drainage, but in some places the simplest device will do. As a last resort, you can turn to maps to determine the nature of your site.

Even if you have data from maps, you should not neglect additional practical verification of the slope. If it is not possible to achieve the desired direction of flow in some places, you can try to correct this with the help of embankments. However, such a procedure is also not carried out without preliminary calculations. A number of problems can be solved with the help of a drainage pump. This coercive system drainage, which is used in cases where it is impossible to create a natural one, or an additional water outlet device is required.

Not all types of soil drain water well. These include clayey ones. Clay soil characterized by excess moisture. Because of this, the required amount of oxygen does not reach the roots. As a result, the plants die. Dense turf also leads to oxygen starvation of plants.

When installing a drainage system small area, it is not necessary to make calculations during the design process. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the parameters regarding drains:

slope;
location according to plan;
depth;
distance between rows;
arrangement of wellhead and inspection wells.

It is better to use the natural terrain of the site with a slope when constructing a drainage system.

It is easier to work with a sloping area than with a flat one. This is due at least to a reduction in labor costs. All you need is to correctly combine open and closed drainage.

Clay soil is dense and heavy, so to improve drainage properties the soil should be thoroughly loosened. In the process of laying drains, it is necessary to bypass places intended for vehicle passage.

In peatlands, the groundwater level is usually high. Because of this, these types of soils are practically not used for growing plants. In the peat bogs root system the plants simply rot.

Draining peat bogs allows you to reduce the groundwater level to 2–2.5 m. There is no need to do this if soil drainage has already been carried out on your site. This can be easily determined. The site was drained if there was no stagnation of melt water and the groundwater level during floods did not exceed 1.5 m.

This occurs only on low-lying peatlands or land cultivated by someone else. Most often, on peat bogs, you can observe a picture when the water is close, and in the spring, even in some places it is not absorbed into the ground. The only exception is the hot summer, when the groundwater level drops significantly, as a result of which the peat dries out and needs watering. The roots of perennials suffer greatly during the thaw period in winter or spring. In such a situation, over time, the death of plants is inevitable.

Not everything is so sad. Peat bogs can be drained. What can be done for this? If the water is at a level of 0.8–1.2 m, then its excess can be diverted from the site, for example, by planting birch trees or viburnum bushes in the northwestern side of the site or beyond. The fact is that birch trees actively collect moisture at a distance of 30 m from themselves. This way, you will drain the area without shading it with these trees.

If the water is closer, then you will have to make a high-quality drainage system. To do this, divide the area into sectors. In this case, drainage ditches are laid in the slope of the place to collect water. Dig in the bottom corner of the area sewer or make an artificial pond. Everything will flow into it excess water from a peat area. If you decide to make a water collector in the form of a well, then the accumulated water during the summer drought can be used for irrigation.

Plant moisture-loving fruit/ornamental crops around the pond.

Two ditches should run along the edges land plot, transverse - must be provided for high-quality drainage of the peat bog. For example, for 6 acres it is enough to make 1-2 transverse ditches. In this case, the depth of the ditch should reach about 40–50 cm. When digging a trench, dump the top layer of soil onto the edges of the beds that will be developed later.

For safety reasons, it is better to make a closed drainage system. The principle of its installation will be described below.

It is impossible for water to accumulate on even a small piece of land - melt or rain. If you find such accumulations, then make mounds of soil and sand, as well as fertile soil, in such places. The drainage system hoses must converge towards the well/reservoir.

In peat bogs, plants should be grown in raised beds. If the peat dries out in summer due to the heat, it will need to be watered regularly and abundantly.

In cases where the groundwater level cannot be lowered to a level of 2 m, fruit trees it will need to be planted on artificial hills having a height of 30–50 cm. Moreover, as the tree grows, the diameter of the hill will have to be increased.

Errors during arrangement

The most common mistake when installing a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, you must first understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.

For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. In difficult cases, you will have to contact specialists.

Video

Scheme

These diagrams will help you plan site drainage according to the requirements: