Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of PVC pipes. We make a greenhouse from PVC pipes with our own hands. Step-by-step instructions for installing a greenhouse

Having your own greenhouse in your garden is always profitable and convenient. It's still cold outside, but you have organic vegetables in the refrigerator that can't compare with products bought in the supermarket. Today you can build a greenhouse from any material, but if you need to build a structure quickly and easily, then you should use the option from PVC pipes.

Which pipes are suitable

Before moving on to the description Supplies, it is necessary to highlight some advantages of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes:

  • ease of installation, dismantling or moving to another location;
  • low cost of materials for constructing the structure;
  • creating the conditions necessary for growing numerous crops;
  • high strength, lightness and environmental safety.

With all the advantages, it should be noted that a greenhouse made of PVC pipes is being built temporarily. It will be possible to grow vegetables there only for one season. After this time, you will have to at least replace the top coating. At choosing PVC pipes it is necessary to calculate the required number.

To build a small greenhouse, you need to buy PVC pipes of the following length:

  • 190 cm (4 pieces);
  • 68 cm (10 pieces);
  • creation of hinges 10 cm (10 pcs.);
  • 350 cm (2 pcs.);
  • 558 cm (4 pcs.);
  • 170 cm (2 pcs.);
  • 360 cm (2 pcs.);
  • 90 cm (4 pcs.).

In the video - a greenhouse made of PVC pipes with your own hands:

When choosing a material for covering the frame, you can pay attention to polyethylene, polycarbonate or reinforced film. Polycarbonate remains the most durable of all. But not everyone can afford it because of the high cost.

But you can see what it looks like in the photo in the article.

What material for a greenhouse is the best and most suitable is described in great detail in this

Information from the article will help you understand what a spunbond greenhouse looks like and how to make it yourself:

And here budget option polyethylene or reinforced film remains. If you change the top cover of the greenhouse every 2 years, then you should use polyethylene. It is inexpensive and can withstand light wind loads.

Manufacturers and prices for pipes

Today there is a wide range of PVC pipes used for greenhouse installations. The following manufacturers remain the most popular:


Installation of greenhouses

With wooden box base

An arched building made of PVC pipes can be mounted not only on the ground, but also on a pre-made wooden box. Thus, it is possible to create more favorable conditions for growing crops and accurately monitor their condition, soil composition and temperature conditions.

From a wooden box

All installation work are carried out according to the following plan:

  1. To complete the foundation, it is necessary to prepare the site for installation and mark it.
  2. Drive metal rods along the edges of the future box. They will be the basis for PVC installation battens.
  3. A distance of 70 cm must be maintained between the pins. Drive the pegs so that their length above ground level is at least 10 mm.
  4. Check all diagonals, all angles must be right. Otherwise the greenhouse will not be sustainable.
  5. Using the prepared boards, you can begin to create the box. Its height can reach 30 cm.
  6. Next, proceed to assembling the sheathing from PVC pipes. To make the ends, you can use wooden beams. Just don’t forget to leave room for doors and windows. Cover the assembled frame with film. Tuck its edges under the box and secure with staples. Lastly, you need to install doors and vents for air circulation. But you can see in the photo what the new generation greenhouses look like

A box for such structures can only have soil at its base, which is poured to a certain level. But there is also the option of installing the box on a cushion made of expanded clay and sand. This will improve the microclimate inside the greenhouse. Such a structure will be warmer, and it will be much easier to assess the condition of the soil.

Polycarbonate coated

You can get a more durable building from PVC pipes if the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate. Such a structure is durable, reliable, and it is also much easier to maintain the conditions necessary for the full growth of plants. There is absolutely no need to build a powerful frame for polycarbonate sheets. So there is no need to prepare metal pipes. PVC structures perfectly withstand all loads if the assembly conditions have not been violated.

Installation work is reduced to compliance with the following plan:

  1. The first step is to prepare the area for installing the greenhouse. There, carefully level the soil.
  2. The greenhouse is assembled in the end parts. First, cut out 3 sheets with dimensions of 2x2.1 m. For these purposes, you need to use sharp knife. But the material must lie on a hard and level surface.
  3. Assemble a frame from PVC pipes on the ground. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that there should be a window and doors that will open upward. This is what a greenhouse looks like
  4. Dismantle from polycarbonate sheets Place the protective film on the prepared horizontally installed frame with the outer side up.
  5. Polycarbonate level. The first sheet should be laid so that the doorway and window are covered. When the sheet is installed level, it can be fixed to the sheathing of PVC pipes using self-tapping screws. After fixing, cut off the unnecessary parts of the polycarbonate along an arc using a construction knife.
  6. Now you can start fixing the second sheet. It should either butt to the first. Also make sure that there are no gaps between the materials. Complete the second end of the building in the same way.
  7. You can start creating doors and windows. Using a knife and a ruler, draw and cut in the polycarbonate sheets in the center of the door frame so that there is an overlap when closing. Cut out the windows in the same way. In order for them to close well, it is necessary to make protrusions for the hinges. It is not surprising, but any doors and windows can be made from scrap materials, but this is described in great detail in this article.
  8. Now you can proceed to assembling the frame. Make a wooden box around the perimeter from boards. Now mark all its longest sides and drive metal rods near them. They are necessary for the sheathing posts.
  9. Install PVC arcs on these guides, secure them to the ends with a longitudinal tie.
  10. Using a building level, check the position of the sheathing. Now you can fix the greenhouse. To do this, drive special pegs into the corners of the sheathing towards the base. Thus, the structure will not change its position during use or strong wind.
  11. The installation is completed by attaching polycarbonate sheets. It is necessary to measure the arc and cut the material with a margin of 10 cm. External side should be directed upwards. It is worth leaving a margin of 5 cm above the ends. All unnecessary parts of the material must be removed after fastening.
  12. Fixation of polycarbonate sheets is carried out using press washers. The protective film can be removed from the material only after the installation work is completed.
  13. All joints formed between the sheets must be sealed. Neutral is perfect for these purposes. silicone sealant. Install handles on doors and windows. You may also be interested in learning more about what they are and in what part of the garden it should be planted.

The video shows the installation of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes:

Because today I want to offer you a great idea for creating a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands. This simplest design, struck me right in the heart with its simplicity and accessibility. The materials to make such a greenhouse require a mere trifle, but the benefits from it are incredible. Let's take a look and judge for yourself.

So, in order to make a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands, You will need materials such as:
- PVC pipes in the amount of six pieces, with a diameter of 1.3 centimeters and a length of about 3 meters;
- two boards with proportions 5/15/240 centimeters;
- one board with proportions 5/15/180 centimeters (it will be cut in half);
- one wooden beam approx size 5/5/240 centimeters;
- four metal corners, those that are attached with screws;
- ten, or better yet twenty pipe clamps, always with screws;
- galvanized screws and nails;
- hammer;
- a screwdriver or a special construction stapler, whoever has what;
- covering material, in our case it is a thick transparent film;
- thick plastic film black for backing.

Now we need to choose a place for our greenhouse. By the way, using black film, you can kill two birds with one stone. First of all, the greenhouse will be protected from weeds. Secondly, after the greenhouse is removed, a magnificent, clean bed, since all the weeds will die under this very black film.

The process of making a greenhouse from PVC pipes with your own hands

1. To begin with, let’s cut our single board 5/15/180 centimeters exactly in half and get the end fences of our future garden bed.

3. We mark the box for the pipes. Two pipes should be located at the edges, and the remaining three at equal intervals.

4. We install the pipes into the box. By themselves, PVC pipes are quite strong and our goal is to carefully bend them into an arc, insert them into a box and fasten them to it using half a clamp. For greater reliability, you can fasten the pipe with two clamp halves - one slightly lower, the other slightly higher.

5. Initially we had six pipes, but we only used five. So, the sixth pipe will play the role of the top crossbar, which should be secured with plastic clips.

6. The top pipe will be slightly longer than the greenhouse, so it must first be adjusted to size. The remaining scraps can be used as film clips. To do this, you simply need to saw through them on one side. By the way, if you have an old dense hose, then it is better to make such clamps from it.

7. Now let’s make the greenhouse presentable and start by tucking the edges of the black film neatly under the bed.

8. Take transparent film and cut it to the size of our greenhouse. It is fastened with a stapler, but so that the metal staples do not tear the film and it serves us as long as possible, we lay a thin tape of plastic or ordinary material on top of the film.

9. Attach a wooden block to the end of the film using the same stapler. This technique is necessary to simplify the procedure for opening a greenhouse in case of watering or ventilation.

A greenhouse is not only a decoration for a summer cottage, but also a guarantee good harvest, especially in temperate latitudes. Greenhouse prices industrial production quite high and standard design Not suitable for all summer residents.

In this case, it is easier and cheaper to assemble a greenhouse with your own hands from scrap materials, for example, from plastic pipes.

The classification of greenhouses is quite complex: they can vary in shape, seasonality, presence and type of heating, frame and cover material used.

The simplest and most reliable designs are suitable for manufacturing from PVC pipes, including:

  • wall-mounted greenhouse;
  • gable, in the form of a house;
  • polygonal, with complex shape stingrays;
  • arched, with a frame in the shape of a semicircle.

Wall greenhouses They are usually attached to the southern or southwestern wall of a house or other room. In this case, the wall plays the role of thermal mass: heating up during the day, it gives off heat at night, which reduces average daily temperature fluctuations and also protects from cold northern winds.

In wall-mounted greenhouses, a microclimate favorable for plants is created, and the cost is lower than that of free-standing models. The main disadvantage of this design is the constant exposure of the wall to moisture and the lack of good ventilation, which can lead to destruction of the wall material.

Gable design– one of the most convenient and popular. This is explained by the strength of the frame and its resistance to snow and wind loads. The reflection coefficient of gable greenhouses is low, most of the sun's rays penetrate inside, which increases the lighting efficiency. By increasing the angle of inclination of the slopes, you can achieve snow melting in winter time, and the greenhouse will not have to be raked.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with one or two doors, as well as vents for ventilation. The side walls of gable greenhouses can be either strictly vertical or inclined. In the second case, the illumination in the greenhouse in the morning and evening hours will be higher, which is important for temperate latitudes.

Polygonal design The greenhouse practically repeats the shape of the arch due to several planes forming slopes and walls. Thanks to this, the internal space is increased and at the same time the main disadvantage of arched greenhouses is compensated for - the high coefficient of reflection of solar rays.

It is difficult to assemble a polygonal greenhouse from pipes with your own hands due to the large number of connecting nodes, so it is usually made from metal pipes by welding or from a profile for plasterboard, assembling the frame with self-tapping screws.

- perhaps one of the most common designs, and this is easily explained: it is distinguished by strength and stability, a minimum number of connecting nodes and a large internal space. It can be made from almost any type of pipe, choosing any size and height.

The disadvantages of arched greenhouses include increased accumulation of snow on the roof in winter and a high reflection coefficient from the inclined plane of the film or polycarbonate.

Partial reflection is compensated by correct installation of the greenhouse - from north to south. With this arrangement, the side walls are illuminated by the morning and evening sun, and the rays hit the walls of the greenhouse almost at a right angle. During the day, when the sun is high, it illuminates the southern gable and roof, where the refraction of rays is not so strong.

Snow accumulation is dealt with in three ways:

  • regular cleaning;
  • dismantling the film or the entire greenhouse for the winter;
  • changing the shape to a pointed arch.

Greenhouses in the shape of a pointed arch have a more stable design, and their increased height has a beneficial effect on the microclimate: hot superheated air accumulates at the top and does not depress the plants. At the same time, material consumption and planting area do not differ from similar indicators for conventional arched greenhouses.

PVC pipes and methods of connecting them

PVC pipes are designed for installation of cold water supply systems and can be operated at temperatures up to +65 degrees. Thanks to the flexibility and wide variety of connecting elements, it is easy to assemble a greenhouse of any configuration from them.

For greenhouses, PVC pipes with a diameter of 20 to 32 mm are used; they provide the necessary rigidity of the frame. Standard pipe lengths can be 1, 2, 3 or 6 meters.

There are several ways to connect PVC pipes for a greenhouse:

  • using clamps, ties;
  • on furniture bolts using pre-drilled holes;
  • on glue.

When connecting pipes with clamps or bolts, the greenhouse can be completely disassembled and moved to another location, ensuring crop rotation. Film greenhouses and greenhouses are often installed this way. The film is usually removed for the winter to avoid damage by snow and wind, and at the same time the frame is dismantled.

The adhesive connection is permanent, but more durable. It is recommended to be used for greenhouses installed on a foundation and left for the winter. The cover of such greenhouses, as a rule, lasts at least 5-7 years and does not require annual replacement.

Connecting elements for PVC pipes used during greenhouse installation:

  • corners, allow for fastening mutually perpendicular elements;
  • tees– connect three pipes in one plane or at an angle (single-plane tees can have an angle of 45, 66 and 90 degrees);
  • crosses, to connect four pipe elements.

The number and type of fittings used depend on the design of the greenhouse, as well as the type of connections chosen.

Prices for PVC pipes

pvc pipes

The procedure for connecting pipes and fittings with glue

The connection is made using Tangit PVC-U glue from Henkel or its equivalent. This glue provides strong fastening of parts and hardens quickly, so installation will not take much time.

Prices for Tangit PVC Kleber

Sequencing.

  1. Cut the pipe to the required length using a cutter, hacksaw or construction scissors. Check the compatibility of the pipe and fitting: the pipe should fit into it 2/3 of the length of the socket.
  2. Clean the edges from burrs and use a knife to chamfer the end.
  3. Degrease the surfaces to be joined with any solvent. Apply glue to both surfaces to be glued: the pipe and the inner surface of the fitting.
  4. Insert the pipe into the fitting strictly along its axis to 2/3 of the depth until it stops, then turn 90 degrees inside the fitting so that the glue is evenly distributed.
  5. Fix them in this position for 15-30 seconds, then wait another 1-2 minutes until complete gluing.

The procedure for connecting pipes with bolts

Furniture bolts with a diameter of M6 or M8 are chosen as fasteners, depending on the diameter of the pipes. The length must be sufficient to connect two pipes.

Sequencing.

  1. Before installation, places in the pipes are marked for drilling holes.
  2. Drill through holes with a 2 mm drill larger diameter bolts
  3. Connect the pipes by matching the holes. Insert and tighten the bolts.

Holes can also be drilled in place, with the pipe temporarily secured to a wire tie or secured in another way.

Calculation of required materials

First you need to decide on the shape and dimensions of the greenhouse (length, width and height). As a rule, there are two beds in a greenhouse, separated by a passage. The width of the beds usually varies between 0.8-1.1 meters - this allows you to plant two rows of plants with the required interval and provide convenient access to them.

The width of the passage should be such that you can easily walk with buckets and other garden tool, including a wheelbarrow. Usually the path is made 0.6-0.8 m wide. As a result, the width of the greenhouse will be 2.2-3 m.

The length of the greenhouse depends on your needs and placement standards vegetable crops that you plan to grow in it. Planting rates per 1 m2 of greenhouse area are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Standards for planting vegetable crops in a greenhouse.

CultureNumber of roots per 1 m2

2-4

1-2

4-6

2-4

4-6

2-4

Based on these standards, the length of the greenhouse is determined. Usually the length is 3-6 meters - it is not practical to install a greenhouse of a smaller size, and for structures of longer length it is better to use more durable materials and capital construction technologies.

Note! If you plan to use polycarbonate as a greenhouse covering, choose a length that is a multiple of the width of the sheets (2 meters). This way you will avoid unnecessary trimmings.

The height of the greenhouse should allow free movement in it, in addition, there should be at least 50 cm above the plants free space- accumulates there hot air and air exchange occurs during ventilation. For low-growing crops - peppers, eggplants, low-growing tomatoes - a height of 1.8-2.0 meters is sufficient. For tall crops, the height of the greenhouse should be at least 2.2-2.4 meters.

Another important parameter for an arched greenhouse made of pipes - the length of the arc, which is found by the formula:

Here L is the length of the pipe for the arc, m; h – greenhouse height, m; B – greenhouse width, m. Table 2 shows dimensions L for the most commonly used greenhouse sizes.

Table 2. Arc length for standard greenhouse sizes.

Widthh = 1.8 mh = 2.0 mh = 2.2 mh = 2.4 m
B = 2.2 m3,1 3,5 3,8 4,1
B = 2.4 m3,4 3,8 4,1 4,5
B = 2.6 m3,7 4,1 4,5 4,9
B = 2.8 m4,0 4,4 4,8 5,3
B = 3.0 m4,2 4,7 5,2 5,7

To calculate materials, it is also necessary to determine the pitch between the arches. If you plan to remove the covering from the greenhouse for the winter, it is enough to place the arches in increments of 0.8-1 meter. For a non-removable structure, the pitch should be reduced to 0.5-0.7 meters - this will protect the greenhouse from deformation under the influence of snow.

It is necessary to take into account the material for the manufacture of longitudinal ties, end walls, doors and vents. The total length of the longitudinal ties can be calculated by multiplying the length of the greenhouse by the number of ties. Usually there are at least five of them: two lower, two side and ridge. To strengthen the structure, you can use additional side ties.

For the end walls you will need pipes with a total length of 15-20 m. For each door you need about 5 meters of pipe, for a window - 2-2.5 meters. For convenience, you can draw up a detailed sketch, which shows all the dimensions, as well as the number of connecting elements.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling an arched greenhouse

Below is step-by-step instruction assembling a greenhouse from PVC pipes with the following dimensions:

  • width – 2.4 m;
  • height – 2.0 m.
  • length – 4 m.

According to Table 2, the length of the arc is determined - it is 3.8 m. For the frame, pipes from PVC standard length 6 m with diameter 25 mm. Such pipes will provide the structure with reliability and rigidity. To connect the pipes, standard 25 mm fittings and glue connections are used.

For a greenhouse of the indicated sizes with two doors and vents and with an arch spacing of 67 cm, you will need:

  • PVC pipe L=6 m, Ø25 mm – 16 pieces;
  • single-plane cross Ø25– 5 pieces;
  • tee single-plane angle 90 degrees Ø25–28 pieces;
  • tee single-plane angle 45 degrees Ø25 – 4 pieces;
  • two-plane tee Ø25 – 4 pieces;
  • corner 90 degrees Ø25 – 16 pieces;
  • self-tapping screws or furniture bolts for fastening side ties - 36 pieces;
  • two-jaw clamps - 18 pieces, 55 mm self-tapping screws for them - 36 pieces.
  • door hinges - 8 pieces, 24 mm screws for them - 48 pieces;
  • polycarbonate - 3 sheets measuring 2x6 meters;
  • self-tapping screws for fastening polycarbonate with a thermal washer – 100 pieces;
  • connecting profile for polycarbonate or construction tape.

You can also use film to cover the greenhouse; it will take about 8 linear meters with a width of 6 m.

Ground leveling and foundation installation

To avoid distortion of the structure during installation and operation, the area under the greenhouse must first be leveled. To do this, mark the location of the future greenhouse on the ground using pegs and twine and check the area for level. If the slope is more than 1 degree, the area must be leveled. It is recommended to place a sand cushion 5-10 cm thick under the foundation.

A wooden beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm is traditionally used as a foundation for greenhouses. It distributes the load and lasts for at least 10-15 years, while it is inexpensive, and its installation does not take much time.

Step 1. The timber is sawn to the size of the greenhouse, impregnated with an antiseptic for lower crowns log house or waste oil and dried. It is more convenient to treat with an antiseptic using a sprayer.

Step 2. Assemble the foundation on the greenhouse site, laying the timber on a sand cushion or auxiliary brick columns, using a level. Check the dimensions, as well as the diagonals - when correct installation they must be equal.

Step 3. The beams are connected using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the beams are not long enough, they are fastened with staples. For better traction with the ground, metal pins are used - lugs. All fasteners must have protective covering, it is best to take galvanized elements. After installing the foundation, they can be additionally painted or varnished.

Step 4. Add sand along the perimeter of the foundation, finally securing it. In this case, you can immediately create paths in the greenhouse and fencing the ridges.

Assembling the greenhouse frame

The assembly of the frame begins with the preparation of the necessary pipe sections. After cutting them to size, it is better to sign them with a marker so as not to get confused.

For the described design you will need:

  • pipe sections 400 cm long - 2 or 4 pieces;
  • pipe sections 190 cm long - 10 pieces;
  • pipe sections 180 cm long - 4 pieces;
  • pipe sections 140 cm long - 4 pieces;
  • pipe sections 76 cm long - 8 pieces;
  • pipe sections 65 cm long - 18 pieces;
  • pipe sections 46 cm long - 4 pieces;
  • pipe sections 10 cm long - 4 pieces.

The remaining elements, including the frame of doors, vents and end ties, are cut in place during the installation process.

Step 1. Pipes for five intermediate arches 190 cm long are glued together in pairs using crosses. In the illustration, the connection points are highlighted in blue.

Step 2. The end arches are connected according to a scheme of four pipe sections and three tees. Two sections of pipe 140 cm each form side arcs, which are attached to the tees at an angle of 45 degrees so that when the arch is bent into an arc, the free bells of the tees are directed downwards - the doorway posts will be attached to them. Pipe sections 46 cm long are connected to a 90-degree tee, then the parts are combined into a common structure, while the side bell of the 90-degree tee should be directed perpendicular to the axis of the 45-degree tees.

Step 3. Assemble two lower side ties from six pieces of pipe 65 cm long and five single-plane tees for each tie. The terminals of the tees are directed strictly in one direction - the arcs will be attached to them.

Step 4. Two end ties are assembled from three 76 cm pipe sections and two single-plane tees for each tie.

Step 5. Assemble doorways according to the diagram. Sections of pipes 1.8 m long are secured in the lower tees, then they are connected using tees and a jumper 76 cm long. Sections of pipes about 10 cm long are glued to the tees - a continuation of the racks. They are later cut to size when connecting to the arch.

Step 6. The end walls are assembled. The end ties and end arches are connected using tees and racks, as well as two-plane tees in the lower part. The pipes at the top of the racks are cut to size.

Step 7 The greenhouse frame is assembled on the foundation. Install one end arch and connect it to the lower ties. Install the first intermediate arch into the tees on the lower ties and connect it to the end arch using a 65 cm long jumper. All intermediate arches are secured sequentially. Install a second end wall, connecting it to the upper and lower side ties. For stability during assembly, you can use temporary wire ties.

Step 8 Check the diagonals of the frame and, if necessary, level it. The frame is secured to the beam using metal two-jaw clamps and self-tapping screws.

Step 9 Install side ties. They are attached to furniture bolts at a height of approximately 1.4-1.6 meters on both sides from the inside of the greenhouse. For greater rigidity, additional longitudinal ties can be attached. The location of the bolts is marked with red crosses.

Step 10 Doors and vents are assembled in accordance with the diagram from scraps of pipes, tees and corners. The windows are secured to the door frames on the hinges using self-tapping screws. Attach the hinges to the door frame.

Step 11 The doors are secured with hinges in the doorways. Install end pipe ties according to the diagram, securing them to furniture bolts. The mounting location is marked with red crosses.

Alternative option- design without kinks

Polycarbonate fastening

Polycarbonate - comparatively new material, which has received wide recognition among summer residents.

It has many advantages:

  • good light transmittance;
  • two-layer honeycomb structure that retains heat well;
  • sufficient mechanical strength;
  • resistance to UV rays;
  • simple and quick installation;
  • service life of at least 5 years.

Disadvantages of polycarbonate:

  • reflects Sun rays stronger than glass and film;
  • unstable to scratches and pinpoint impacts, requires careful handling;
  • If installed incorrectly, moisture and dirt accumulate inside, causing the material to fade.

To extend its service life, polycarbonate must be installed strictly in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Three important factors to follow:

  • polycarbonate is fixed so that moisture can drain along the internal longitudinal strips;
  • one of the sides of the polycarbonate has a protective UV coating; when installing, the sheets must be placed with this side up;
  • fastening is carried out using special self-tapping screws with a thermal washer along pre-drilled holes, otherwise the sheets will move when heated.

Sequencing.

Step 1. Remove the protective film from the polycarbonate and mark the top side with a marker (the protective film on it is usually colored or has the manufacturer’s logo). It is better to make several marks on each sheet.

Step 2. Cut out polycarbonate for the end walls. To do this, a standard sheet is cut into three parts measuring 2x2 meters. Apply one part to the end of the greenhouse so that the cavities are directed vertically. Align the left side of the sheet along the left edge and use a marker to outline the contours of the arc to the left post and down along it. Apply the right edge of the sheet to the right side of the end and proceed in the same way. As a result, the contours of two semi-arches are obtained on the sheet. They are cut out with a mounting knife or jigsaw with a small allowance of 3-5 cm. Do the same with the second end.

Step 3. Secure the cut parts to self-tapping screws with thermal washers using a screwdriver. The fastening step is 30-50 cm. At the same time, try not to pinch the polycarbonate. Trim off excess polycarbonate with a knife.

Step 4. The third piece of sheet is used for lining doors and vents. The sheet is applied to the doors, maintaining verticality. They outline the doors with a margin, cut out blanks and attach them to the doors and vents. An arch is cut out over the door from the remnants of polycarbonate and closed. It is better to connect polycarbonate at the joints using special profiles.

Step 5. Close the top of the greenhouse. To do this, a polycarbonate sheet is laid over the arches, aligned along one of the lower edges, and the second is cut in place. The sheet should protrude slightly above the ends of the greenhouse. Fix the sheet at the corners.

Step 6. Place the second sheet overlapping the first one at the joint and trim it. The corners of the sheet are secured, after which they are fastened with self-tapping screws along the bottom and all arcs in increments of 40-60 cm.

Video - Greenhouse made of PVC pipes and polycarbonate

Film fastening

Using film as a covering material has its pros and cons.

The advantages of this coating include the following factors:

  • low price;
  • simple installation;
  • good light transmittance.

Flaws:

  • low mechanical strength;
  • susceptibility to UV radiation, due to which the film is destroyed in a year or two even without mechanical stress;
  • low thermal insulation.

Despite the disadvantages, the film is widely used to cover greenhouses and greenhouses. The film installation technology is quite simple. The film can be attached either to self-tapping screws through strips or to special clamps for pipes.

Note! When attaching the film to self-tapping screws, you can use an old PVC garden hose, cut in half lengthwise, as a strip. It carefully covers the pipe and does not tear the film.

Sequencing.

Step 1. Sew up the ends of the greenhouse with film. Cut a piece of film from a sheet of suitable width to the size of the end part with allowances of at least 20 cm on each side. Apply the film to end wall, allowances are placed on the wrong side and the film is secured on the sides and at the top point with temporary fastening. To do this, you can use adhesive tape - it is used to grab the supply of film from inside the greenhouse. Align the film, eliminating creases and folds. Fix it along the entire circumference in increments of about 60 cm using temporary fastenings.

Step 2. Cover the greenhouse with film with a margin of at least 30 cm at the bottom and at least 20 cm at the ends. Level the film, eliminate creases and folds. They are fixed along the outer arches to a permanent fastening - clamps or screws through the bar. The fastening step is no more than 30 cm.

Step 3. From below, the film is attached to the lower screeds or covered with earth. Along the intermediate arches, the film is attached to self-tapping screws through a strip, hose or rubber gaskets. The points of contact with the arcs can be reinforced with tape.

Step 4. Openings are cut for the doors, leaving allowances of at least 20 cm. These allowances are folded inside the greenhouse around the doorway and secured to the posts in the chosen way. Cover doors and windows with film.

Step 5. The free ends of the film are trimmed or glued with tape. If you leave them hanging freely, the film will begin to tear in windy weather.

A homemade greenhouse is in no way inferior to its industrial counterparts in its ability to create a microclimate favorable for plants. Its price is several times lower. Making such a greenhouse with your own hands is not at all difficult if you follow the instructions given and the advice of the experts.

1

Having decided to install a greenhouse or greenhouse on the site, the summer resident needs to choose the type and size of the structure, as well as decide on the material. The cost and durability of the structure will depend on these points. One of the most economical options is a greenhouse or greenhouse made of plastic pipes with your own hands. Today our site will tell you about all the features of constructing such structures in the country.

Plastic pipes as a material for a greenhouse - what are the advantages?

IN modern construction plastic pipes are used quite widely. The main advantages of the material are durability and low cost. Plastic pipes are easy to work with, flexible and durable. The light weight of the material makes working with it especially comfortable and allows you to involve even a child in helping.

Due to such attractive characteristics of plastic pipes, craftsmen developed a method for using them in the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses. Today there are several types of similar structures that any summer resident can build with his own hands.

Greenhouses made of plastic pipes have the following advantages:

Resistance to precipitation. Plastic construction does not rust like metal and does not break down like wood.
Easy to assemble. A greenhouse of this type can easily be disassembled when not needed and then put back together.
A light weight. Design without special effort can be moved to a new location.
Durability. If you follow all the recommendations when creating a greenhouse, it can last up to 50 years.
Fire resistance. Plastic pipes are considered a fire-resistant material.
Wear resistance. The self-made frame withstands external influences well, without changing its properties for many years.
Strength. Although the material is light in weight, it does not break or bend under gusts of wind.
Minimal care. During operation, plastic pipes do not need to be treated with any protective agents.
Availability. PP or PVC pipes with the necessary characteristics can be purchased at any hardware store at an affordable price.
Nice appearance.


Greenhouses made of plastic pipes look very attractive

Types of greenhouses made of plastic pipes with photos

Summer residents appreciated the flexibility of plastic pipes. The material is easy to bend, cut and fasten. In addition, pipes of various lengths and thicknesses are always available for sale. All this allows you to build a greenhouse or greenhouse of any configuration on the site.

Arched design

This is the most common form of greenhouse in summer cottages our country. This project is easy to implement, looks great and is easy to maintain. Due to the minimal number of fasteners, the structure can be easily disassembled.


Installation of an arched structure made of PVC pipes

Single-slope and double-slope greenhouse

Lean greenhouses and greenhouses are often attached to the house (with south side), which saves space on the site and creates comfortable conditions for irrigation. Buildings for plants with gable roofs always built separately from the building. Rectangular structures are complicated by a large number of fasteners.


Single slope greenhouse design

Tent and dome

Such greenhouse projects made from PVC pipes are much more difficult to implement with your own hands. You will need certain skills to carry out correct calculations and construction complex structures. But these vegetable houses look amazingly beautiful.


Greenhouse geodome made of plastic pipes

Depending on the purpose of the structure, they use various materials for covering:

Film- for using the building for growing seedlings.
Cellular polycarbonate - for year-round operation of the greenhouse.

Choosing the type of structure must begin with determining its purpose. Depending on the crops grown, covering material is selected and the size of the structure is calculated. On small plots they usually build small greenhouses, remembering that they additionally cast a shadow. Read more about the selection and construction of greenhouses and greenhouses made of plastic pipes various options can be found using the video.


Film greenhouse made of PVC pipes for growing seedlings

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

To securely fasten a structure made of plastic pipes, it is necessary to ensure solid foundation. Use a wooden box, a foundation made of concrete, blocks or bricks. For lightweight film construction, reinforcement bars without a base are often used.

You should not place the structure in the garden where it will be shaded by tall plants.
The place should not be low-lying or, on the contrary, elevated.
Two suitable orientation options: north-south, east-west.
It is important to consider the direction of the winds in order to retain more heat in a greenhouse made of PVC pipes.

Having decided on the place where you will assemble the greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands, proceed to preparing the required area. The ground must be leveled as much as possible without compacting it. Next, make clear markings, maintaining the correct angles.

Important!

Arched model of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes with photo

The construction of an arched model of a greenhouse is not particularly difficult. This is the most popular form of construction, so we will talk about it in more detail. It is very important to make all the calculations correctly to make it reliable and convenient. Windows and doors in the greenhouse are located at the ends. The photo below shows a diagram of such a structure.


Do-it-yourself arched model of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes

For those who do not have the desire or ability to carry out calculations and create a greenhouse diagram, there is a simpler option. A large number of specialized stores (including on the Internet) offer to buy ready-made frames from plastic pipes of arched and other models. All such kits include PVC pipes corresponding to the diagram with markings and the necessary fastenings. All that remains to be done is to assemble the structure in a suitable place.

Assembling the frame of an arched greenhouse

For the base, a concrete foundation is poured or bricks, stones or beams are used. Most actively used last option. Suitable bars with a cross section of 10 mm. Using staples, they are connected together in the form of a box. Required condition is the treatment of the material with an antiseptic composition.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a timber foundation:

1. Marking using pegs and ropes.
2. Checking the correct angles: cords stretched diagonally must be equal in length.
3. Digging trenches with the expectation of deepening half the width of the beam.
4. Pouring sand and laying roofing felt at the bottom of the trench.
5. Burying the beams halfway.

The size of the greenhouse depends entirely on the number of vegetables that will be grown in it, as well as the area of ​​the plot. The standard height of the structure is 2 m. Before starting assembly, make sure that everything is available necessary elements designs:

PVC or PP pipes + fastening element;
clips for securing film or polycarbonate;
screws, tees, adapters;
reinforcement bars.

The reinforcement bars are buried around the perimeter of the long side of the greenhouse. Immersion depth - 40 cm; the same amount remains on the surface. It is very important to place the rods in pairs strictly opposite each other. The maximum distance is 90 cm, but it is better not to take a step more than 60 cm. The smaller the gap between the arcs, the more stable and durable the greenhouse will be.

After installing all the metal rods, you can proceed to fastening the pipes. The two ends of one pipe are pulled onto two opposite rods. The structure is secured with one or two horizontal pipes running along the top along the structure. The ends of the plastic pipes are attached to the beams with metal brackets.

Covering a greenhouse with film and polycarbonate with your own hands

When film is used to cover a greenhouse made of PVC pipes, the structure in this form can be used for 1-3 years (depending on the quality). The material cannot withstand further use. Polycarbonate as a cover for a greenhouse will last much longer, but will also cost several times more. Fastening both materials has its own characteristics.

Film shelter

In order to cover arcs made of plastic pipes, no special skills are required. Every summer resident can do this with his own hands, following the recommendations. The material is thrown over the top and secured with special clamps.


Film greenhouse made of PVC pipes

In the future, if necessary, it will be possible to easily eliminate sagging using the same clamps. The edges of the film are sprinkled with earth or clamped with boards or bricks. If you use dense agrofibre instead of ordinary polyethylene, the service life increases.

Polycarbonate coating

Polycarbonate is a more durable cover for a greenhouse made of plastic frame. Its advantages over film are obvious:

Resistance to temperature changes;
high insulating properties;
combustion resistance;
protection from excess ultraviolet radiation.

You can easily make a greenhouse from plastic pipes yourself, since this material allows you to build structures of any shape and size. It will be a lightweight but durable collapsible or stationary structure with sheathing made of ordinary polyethylene or polycarbonate. In this article we will provide you with information on how to build such a greenhouse with your own hands at the lowest cost in one or several days.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material, types of structures

Plastic hot water pipes can be used not only for their intended purpose - installation of water supply or heating, but also for the manufacture of various lightweight and durable greenhouse structures.

The disadvantages include the fact that during thermal welding, the structure cannot be completely disassembled without damaging the integrity of the greenhouse frame. Under great physical stress, the pipe can bend and even break.

Types of greenhouses

There are several modifications of greenhouses made of plastic pipes:

  • Arched type with polyethylene coating;
  • WITH gable roof with polyethylene coating;
  • Arched type with polycarbonate casing;
  • With a gable roof with polycarbonate sheathing.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

Before starting to build a greenhouse, it is necessary to resolve the issue of installing the foundation. If the greenhouse is needed only in certain months, then a capital foundation will not be required. We will make a wooden base.

You will need to choose a convenient and level place in the garden, making sure that the soil does not sag under the weight of the greenhouse. To cover the frame made of plastic pipes we will use polyethylene film.

Dimensions of the arched greenhouse:

  • By bending the pipe 6 meters, we get the correct arc;
  • The width of the greenhouse is 3.7 meters, height - 2.1 meters, length - 9.8 meters;
  • When purchasing plastic pipes, pay attention to the manufacturer. Czech and Turkish companies offer high-quality pipes. If you want to save money, you can buy Chinese or domestic products.
  • For strength, you need to take pipes intended for supplying hot water, with a wall thickness of 4.2 mm (inside diameter 16.6 mm and outside diameter 25 mm).
  • Connecting fasteners made of thermoset - wall thickness 3 mm.
  • We take fittings in accordance with the diameter of the pipes to ensure the strength and rigidity of the structure.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools for work

  • Four boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 5 meters;
  • Two boards with a section of 2x6 cm - 3.7 meters;
  • Fourteen boards with a section of 2x4 cm - 3.7 meters.
  • Six-meter plastic pipe with a diameter of 13 mm - 19 pieces.
  • Three-meter fittings with a diameter of 10 mm - 9 pieces.
  • Six-millimeter polyethylene film - size 6x15.24 meters.
  • Wooden pieces of slats 1.22 m long - 50 pieces.
  • Screws or nails.
  • Fastenings (can be used for drywall).
  • Butterfly hinges for doors - four pieces and two handles.

For the sides of the greenhouse:

From five beams 2x4 cm (length 3.7 m) it is necessary to make a frame for the sides of the structure:

  • 11’8 3/4” = (2 beams) 3.6 m;
  • 1’6” = (4 bars) 0.45m;
  • 4’7” = (4 bars) 1.4m;
  • 5’7” = (4 bars) 1.7m;
  • 1’11 1/4” = (8 bars) 0.6m;
  • 4’1/4” = (2 bars) 1.23m;
  • 4 bars 1.5 meters long;
  • 4 bars 1.2 meters long.

Tools for work:

  • Hammer;
  • Grinder and hacksaw for metal;
  • Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
  • Hand, electric or gasoline saw;
  • Construction level and tape measure.

DIY greenhouse made of plastic pipes: assembly steps

  1. To construct the base, we cut each reinforcement rod into 4 pieces. You should get 36 pieces of 75 cm each. To fix the pipes we need 34 pieces. We divide two segments into two equal parts and get 4 rods of 37.5 cm each.
  2. From 2x6 cm boards we lay out the base of a rectangular greenhouse 3.7x9.8 meters. We connect the frame with screws or knock it down with nails. After making sure that all the angles are 90°, we fix pieces of reinforcement 37.5 cm long into them.
  3. To construct a frame from pipes, you need to take 34 pieces of rod (75 cm) and hammer them at the same distance (about 1 meter) along the two long sides of the base of the structure parallel to each other, 17 pieces each. At the top there should be rods 35 cm long.
  4. Next, we put 17 plastic pipes onto the reinforcement stakes driven in on both sides, bending them into an arc. We get a preliminary greenhouse frame.
  5. We fasten the plastic pipes to the wooden base with metal plates using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
  6. To install the end, it is necessary to assemble a structure from beams, as shown in the photo below. Install them into the greenhouse frame and connect them to the base with screws.
  7. From a 2x4 cm beam we cut out 4 pieces 70 cm long. At one end of each beam we make an angle of 45°. These bars are designed to strengthen the ends. To do this, we fasten the end frame to the base, as in the photo below.
  8. After we have made the frame, we need to make a stiffening rib at the top of the structure. To do this, you need to connect two pipes of 6 meters each with a plastic connector, and cut off the excess to get a length of 9.8 meters. Secure the pipe with special ties to the central part of each of the 17 arcs.
  9. Cover the greenhouse with plastic film. The entire greenhouse should be completely covered with film with a large overlap on the sides and length. On the larger side of the greenhouse, the film must be secured with prepared slats, nailing them to the base.
  10. Then pull it well and secure it on the other side as well. We recommend starting to attach the film from the middle, gradually moving to the sides.
  11. Advice: if you fix the film at a positive temperature, then in the future it will stretch and sag less.
  12. On the sides, you need to pull the film down, carefully fold the excess into convenient folds, moving from the center to the edges, and nail it to the base with slats. Where the door is located, you need to cut a square for the opening, leaving allowances for fastening of about 5–10 cm. We wrap the film behind the opening and fasten it inside the greenhouse with nails or self-tapping screws.
  13. Before final installation of the doors, it is necessary to check the actual dimensions of the opening, as they may turn out slightly different, and the door itself may not fit in size. To assemble the doors, you need to cut bars with a cross-section of 2x4 cm (4 bars 1.5 meters long and 4 bars 1.2 meters long). Make two frames out of them. You need to nail a beam diagonally for rigidity. We fasten the hinges to the opening with self-tapping screws. Doors should be on both sides of the greenhouse.
  14. The remaining film will go on the doors. It must be pulled over the frames of two doors and secured wooden slats. There should be a film reserve of 10 cm on all sides.
  15. We screw the handles and put the doors on the hinges.

Second version of ends

  1. You can make the ends of the greenhouse from fiberboard sheet, chipboard or OSB. Wooden frame ends remains the same. Before covering the greenhouse with polyethylene, it is necessary to cut out elements from the selected sheets, as shown in the photo. We take measurements on site.
  2. At the bottom we attach the sheets to wooden base and on the sides to the frame using self-tapping nails. At the top you need to take long 6-meter pieces of foam rubber or other soft material and fasten together with them the first pipe of the structure and wooden ends. We do this using self-tapping screws so that the ends do not fall off in the future.
  3. Then we stretch the film onto the greenhouse in the same way as in the first case, but now we do not give a large allowance at the ends. We secure it with slats. We install doors.

Greenhouse made of plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is one of the most best options coating that will last for many years. This material is resistant to temperature fluctuations, has good thermal insulation properties, does not burn, and protects plants from UV rays.

The location for the greenhouse should be level and fully illuminated by the sun. If you will use the greenhouse in winter, then you need to install a heating system. Build large greenhouse not rational, since it will be difficult to maintain the required microclimate. The height of the structure should be no more than 2 meters. The width of the frame is selected depending on the number of seedlings.

Materials

  • Plastic pipes (for hot water supply).
  • Boards 10x10 cm.
  • Beam - 2x4 cm.
  • Polycarbonate sheets.
  • Reinforcement - length 80 cm.
  • Plastic tees.
  • Metal staples, plastic clamps.
  • Construction cord.
  • Self-tapping screws, screws, nails.
  • Sand, waterproofing material (roofing felt).

Parts for doors and windows


Tools for work

  • High level of construction.
  • Long tape measure 10 meters.
  • Jigsaw.
  • Knife for cutting plastic pipes.
  • Electric or cordless screwdriver.
  • Electric drill.
  • Set of drills.
  • Hammer.

Stages of assembling a greenhouse from plastic pipes and polycarbonate

  • For the base, take a 10x10 cm timber and process it antiseptics. We make blanks: two beams 3 and 6 meters long. We connect them into a rectangle using metal staples or self-tapping screws.
  • We dig a trench under the base. We mark the perimeter with pegs and stretch the cord around the entire perimeter. To control the correctness of the angles, we also stretch the cord diagonally. Their length should be the same.
  • The depth of the trench should be about 5 cm so that the timber is not completely buried in the ground. Sprinkle a small layer of sand at the bottom of the trench. We cover the beams with roofing felt and lower them into the trench to avoid contact of the tree with wet soil. We overlap the waterproofing. We fill the remaining space with earth and compact it well.
  • We cut the reinforcement into 14 rods about 80 cm long. We drive them along both long sides of the frame to a depth of 40 cm in increments of 1 meter. The rods must be located strictly opposite each other.
  • We put pipes on the fittings, creating an arch. We fix them to the base using staples or clamps with self-tapping screws. We fasten the stiffening rib from the plastic pipe at the top with plastic tees, which must first be machined so that the pipe passes through them. Then the tees can be secured with self-tapping screws and the greenhouse will be collapsible.
  • At the ends we make a structure for installing doors and windows. We make blanks from plastic pipes the right size. We connect them using corners and tees into the structure shown in the drawings.
  • To make hinges, we take a piece of pipe 10 centimeters long with a diameter of 1-1/4. We glue them together with PVC pipe glue and fasten them to the frame with screws.
  • We make the latches from the same piece of pipe, cutting off a fourth of it and cleaning the edges. We install the doors and windows on the sides of the greenhouse and secure them with latches or screw them with self-tapping screws.
  • To cover a greenhouse with polycarbonate, you need to know several nuances: the fasteners are placed in increments of 45 mm, the sheets are mounted end-to-end and connected with a special fastening - a strip (or overlapped by several millimeters), holes are drilled 1 millimeter larger than the diameter of the screws. Sealed thermal washers are placed under the screws, the sheets are placed so that the cells are positioned vertically, the protective film is removed after final installation, and the corner lines are fastened with a special profile.
  • Polycarbonate should only be stored in a dry place with low level humidity.
  • Before laying polycarbonate on the structure, it is necessary to cover the ends with perforated tape and a side profile, which provides drainage and air circulation in the sheets so that condensate flows freely from the channels. We lay polycarbonate sheets with the protective film facing up. Otherwise, the material will quickly collapse.

Note to summer residents

  • If the weather outside is too hot, then the doors of the greenhouse on both sides of the ends must be opened for ventilation.
  • In the northern regions of the country, where there is heavy snowfall, it is necessary to remove the polyethylene for the winter, as it can stretch or tear greatly. Snow also perfectly protects the soil from freezing and helps to preserve useful material and nourishes the earth with moisture.
  • If you do not remove the film, then you need to put strong supports in several places of the frame.
  • Instead of polyethylene, you can use durable film such as lutrasil, agrotex, agrospan, reinforced or bubble. The 11 mm thick reinforced film can withstand the weight of wet snow, hail and strong gusty winds.
  • Light stabilized and polypropylene with aluminum reinforcement resistant to thermal deformation and UV radiation.
  • If possible, the area under the greenhouse should be concreted so that the wooden base does not stand on open ground, if seedlings, and then large plants you will keep them in special boxes.
  • The service life of plastic pipes indoors is about 50 years. They will last about 20 years outdoors.
  • All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic agents.

Video: making a greenhouse from plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

Video: how to make a greenhouse from plastic pipes and polyethylene covering

Video: how to build a greenhouse from plastic pipes coated with polycarbonate

https://youtube.com/watch?v=FezdC-E2iu8

A greenhouse in your country house will allow you to always have fresh vegetables and herbs. Salads made from fresh tomatoes and cucumbers will be on your table all year round. You can build a strong and reliable greenhouse with your own hands at minimal cost, since you do not have to pay craftsmen for work or buy a ready-made structure for a lot of money, but only for plastic pipes, several wooden blocks and plastic film.