You need to think about the safety of roses in winter when purchasing them. Do not buy greenhouse roses; they are often sold in the spring and early summer after winter forcing. Such roses themselves may not be winter-hardy, and their rootstocks are often not frost-resistant, especially for imported roses. Distinguish them from garden (not greenhouse) roses by appearance impossible. The only way out is to buy seedlings from reliable suppliers. In addition, at garden roses, in turn, there are varieties that differ in greater or less winter hardiness. Many rose manufacturers in their catalogs highlight the most unpretentious roses into varietal groups of park or landscape. Such roses, in general, tolerate winters better than roses from other varietal groups, such as hybrid teas. However, there are many exceptions.
Rose in winter © Mike Plante
You need to take care of the wintering of roses during planting.
It is also necessary to take into account the dimensions of roses: low-growing (miniature and groundcover) roses are easy to cover, but tall, erect (non-spreading) roses with a height of more than 1.2-1.5 m (semi-climbing and large-flowered climbing) are much more difficult.
You also need to think about preserving roses in winter when planting roses:
- roses growing in a group are easier to protect from frost than those scattered in different places in the garden;
- Fertilizers should not be added to the planting holes, which can cause active growth of shoots in late summer and autumn. Nitrogen (as mineral fertilizers and as part of humus) it is better to add less than more.
Finally, for the successful overwintering of roses, preparing them for the next winter is very important:
- You should not cut flowers at the end of summer and autumn, this leads to the growth of new shoots that will not have time to ripen by winter and will die (sometimes together with the branches of the previous order);
- starting from mid-summer, it is better to stop fertilizing roses (roses do not require so many nutrients, so spring and early summer fertilizing with complex mineral or organic fertilizers is enough for the entire season);
- it is necessary in October (for central Russia) to gradually, starting from the bottom, clear the roses from the leaves (they are separated from the branches moving from top to bottom and, together with the already fallen leaves, are removed away from the roses; it is best to burn them to prevent the spread of spores of pathogenic fungi) .
Protection of roses by hilling. © Kevin Lee Jacobs In principle, there are no ideal ways to protect roses for all occasions. Much depends on the capabilities of the gardener and the availability of covering materials, on specific weather conditions, on the frost resistance of roses, their size and ability to bend to the ground.
Which method of covering roses to choose?
The gardener himself must decide which covering method to use, but to do this he must keep in mind the following considerations:
- during the cold period (and not only in winter), roses can be damaged by frost, affected by pathogenic fungi, branches can break both during shelter and under the weight of snow;
- a large, well-prepared rose for winter in the middle zone will almost never die, even without shelter (the exception is “black” frosts, when due to the lack of snow at the beginning of winter, not only the above-ground, but also the underground part of the bush can freeze);
- a rose that has come out of winter with large losses of the above-ground part weakens greatly, and is already next winter may be the last for it (the plant does not have time to grow the above-ground part during our short northern summer); The gardener’s task is not just to keep the rose alive, but to preserve, if possible, its above-ground part;
- in the fall, roses gradually prepare themselves for frost (according to my observations, the critical temperature for hybrid tea roses in mid-September -5 °C, in mid-October -7 °C, in the first half of November -10 °C, in the second half of November - about -15 °C and even -18 °C);
- pruning roses (not only for flowers, but also for shelter for the winter), premature wrapping of bushes not only stop the natural process of preparing roses for frost, but can also completely deprive the plants of acquired hardening, especially if there are many warm days in the fall; the rose recklessly comes to life, even a light frost can destroy it;
- if you leave fruits set on the bush after flowering at the end of summer, the plant no longer “thinks” about new growth of shoots, the buds do not awaken, and such a rose overwinters better.
Protecting roses from diseases during wintering
Diseases are no less a threat to roses than frosts - at the end of winter and beginning of spring, under shelters at slightly positive temperatures, a dangerous fungal disease - infectious rose burn - actively develops on the branches. Dark brown spots appear on the trunks. As they grow, they lead to the death of the entire branch above the lesion. If you open roses in a timely manner, without waiting for the snow to melt, you can interrupt the period favorable for the development of the disease. This is the main thing.
Spraying roses with fungicides (for example, iron or copper sulfate) before covering also helps. In addition, it’s a good idea to hill roses with clean sand in the fall to cover them. bottom part plants from frost and protect against diseases. It is impossible to hill up soil taken from under a rose, as it may contain a lot of “unfriendly” bacteria and fungal spores.
It is also bad to hill up with peat and sawdust - when frozen, they create an insurmountable shield for heat by spring. In this case, the rose may die due to the fact that in the spring, under the sun, the above-ground part quickly awakens, and the roots are still dormant in the cold soil for several weeks. By the time the roots finally warm up, the aboveground part may die.
Covering roses for the winter. © Smoobs Air-dry method of covering roses for the winter
Knowing all these difficulties, you can consciously approach the choice of shelter for roses. The most reliable (though also the most material-intensive) method of covering is considered to be the air-dry method. A canopy made of boards or shields is installed over the roses, capable of withstanding snow pressure. The canopy rests on pillars made of bricks or lengths of logs dug into the ground. On top it is covered with non-woven material, or even better - with plastic film, you can use old one (it’s easier to open it slightly in the spring for ventilation). The edges of the film are pressed to the ground with stones and bricks.
The height of the canopy should be such that it is possible to bend the branches of roses without breaking them - for large climbing roses with long branches 60-80 cm, for others - 30-60 cm. In severe frosts, additional snow must be added to the ends of the shelter (without, of course, exposing the soil around other valuable plants). In early to mid-March, I clear the snow from the flooring; this allows me to get away from temperatures favorable for the development of rose burn. Additionally, the film can be lifted from the ends for ventilation.
Roses under an air-dry shelter overwinter (if everything was done on time) with virtually no attacks or losses of the above-ground parts.
Now about “on time”. Roses should be covered when cold temperatures are expected (usually this happens at night) below -10... -12 °C. As a rule, this is the second half of November. It is useless to protect from early (September and October) frosts - they will not damage the roses, and the roses will not harden due to early shelter.
The air-dry method ideally protects rose bushes from damage - both when covered in autumn and under the weight of snow in winter and spring. It protects very well from frost. But from an infectious burn - not always. The fact is that in the spring you really don’t want to open roses when they are well covered, and especially when the snow has not yet melted. Meanwhile, in February-March there are already low positive temperatures under cover, favorable for the harmful fungus.
To protect roses from disease if they open too late, it’s a good idea to:
- treat boards for covering roses annually with an antiseptic;
- When working with roses, disinfect the pruning blade more often (with potassium permanganate, alcohol, over fire, etc.);
- in the fall, hill up the roses with clean sand (protects the lower part of the bush, which is more susceptible to disease);
- mulch the soil in the fall with spruce branches or any other mulch (isolation from possible sources of fungal spores);
- collect and burn fallen rose leaves throughout the growing season.
In general, air-dry cover is the best way to preserve roses in winter. However, it requires timely closing and opening of roses, a large investment of time and materials. Not everyone can afford this and would prefer a simpler method of shelter, sacrificing the reliability of wintering.
Covering roses with spruce branches
For them we can offer the following. Roses are covered at the end of October - beginning of November, after the lower leaves are snuffed. The branches are bent to the ground, covered with one layer of spruce branches. This layer prevents the roses from coming into contact with the ground, but allows the warmth of the earth to pass freely to the roses. A layer of spruce branches and non-woven material is laid on top of the roses. This layer of spruce branches protects the non-woven material and at the same time your hands from rose needles. In addition, it insulates roses.
In order to protect roses from breakage, before bending it is useful to place suitable sized pads under the branches (see figure). They protect the branches from breaking at the base. To keep the branches bent, they are pinned or some kind of weight is used. Sometimes the weight of the spruce branches is enough. The non-woven material is pressed down around the perimeter with stones. As always, it is useful to cover the base of the bush with sand in advance.
For simplicity, the figure shows the covering of one rose, but in a similar way you can cover a group of roses at once. The only more difficult thing is to bend down neighboring roses at the same time.
Roses should be opened gradually in the spring. And remember that at this time they can be damaged:
- from severe return frosts (if the insulation is removed too early and abruptly);
- from an infectious burn (if, on the contrary, the insulation is removed too late);
- from sunburn (if the shading is removed before the soil warms up).
Roses in central Russia usually begin to open in the first half of March (depending on the weather). At the same time, they clear off some of the snow and open the covering film slightly to ventilate the roses. After the roses have fully opened, they are pruned. But this is a different stage in the life of roses.
Of course, the preservation of roses in winter largely depends on luck (or rather, on the weather). But it's up to you whether you risk half of your roses or only one or two percent.
Garden.
Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, the natural and climatic conditions are not always and not everywhere favorable for growing this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to novice summer residents. About which roses are recommended to be covered for the winter, features of the shelter different varieties and varieties, optimal timing, subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational methods, will be covered in our article.
It is very difficult to name specific dates when you can cover roses for the winter, because it primarily depends on the weather conditions of your region and its climatic features.
It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when stable subzero temperatures arrive, and these should not be isolated frosts, but preferably so that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it’s better to take even the daily average) it should stabilize at around -5..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to constantly monitor the weather forecast.
Note! If snow also falls along with the drop in temperature, then you can cover directly over the snow.
But it is still possible to name approximate periods of shelter in the regions. So, in the middle zone (Moscow region) roses are covered around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in Leningrad region, and in the Volga region. In the northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the south of Russia - in the late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.
Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and rainy.
Video: when to cover roses for the winter
What roses need to be covered for the winter
Park roses, as a rule, they are very rarely covered for the winter, because They have quite high winter hardiness.
Park
And here floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses it is necessary to cover. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to cover.
Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut to zero, but if spud was sufficient, then the chance of finding living branches under it is quite high.
Hybrid tea
Video: sheltering hybrid tea roses
Specifics of shelter for climbing roses
Obviously, it is quite difficult to cover climbing roses due to their great height.
The technique for covering climbing roses is as follows:
Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine so that you get a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After this, under its own weight, the sheaf (bundle) of roses easily bends to the ground.
Video: covering climbing roses for the winter
Features of sheltering standard roses
It is not so easy to cover standard roses.
The specificity of this type of shelter is as follows: you dig up your rose on one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arches. You fill (spud up) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the standard itself.
By the way! Some particularly scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the entire rose with covering material, also place a frame on top, which is also covered.
Video: how to cover a standard rose for the winter
But it is best not to bend the bushes (especially older ones, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including the standard.
Preparing roses for shelter for the winter
Before covering the roses, it is necessary to carry out the following activities to prepare the “queen of flowers” for winter:
- Feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Advice! The site already has separate material about.
- Conduct autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).
- Cover the cuts with garden varnish or even better with RanNet paste.
- Collect all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and tearing off leaves), as it is a source of infections.
- Treat against diseases and pests. For example, you can spray copper-containing drugs(copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or with specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oxychom. and etc.
Important! If you are covering roses with leaves, or the plant is sick, then treatment is required.
Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone has a different land and climate (weather). For example, some gardeners believe that hilling in the middle zone (Moscow region) is a good thing for roses, because they damp out much more often than they freeze out.
But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often become ripe.
Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - either rain or thaw, it is better to install arches, put spunbond on top, and leave air vents on the sides. As soon as the cold weather sets in, the vents should be closed.
- Cover.
Important! The shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.
How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides
Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, rather than one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.
Covering with earth or hilling
The most “ancient” way to cover roses is to sprinkle them with earth.
However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, in late autumn) the roses are under a layer of soil warm up.
But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.
At first, you simply lightly mound the base of the bush with earth, and after the onset of stable frosts, you cover the bush itself (but preferably with dry soil), making a mound about 30 cm high.
Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with soil, then, if possible, add some snow when you clear the paths. This way your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.
Without arcs (air-dry)
To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered repeatedly, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches; last year’s semi-dry ones are also suitable.
Important! It is not necessary or necessary to cut branches spruce branches directly from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.
If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then you can use them instead branches from shrub pruning(only not sick ones), and also better branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.
Please note! Hay will not work because... it scuttles and there are mice under it. Just like sawdust, because it gets wet during thaws, and when frost hits, it freezes and spoils the root collar, it turns black and becomes frozen in an ice cocoon.
Step-by-step instructions for covering a rose for the winter without arches (on branches):
On arcs (air-dry)
Step-by-step instructions for covering a rose for the winter on arches (air-dry method):
Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)
How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials
Interesting! Covering material is necessary for protection from icy winds in the pre-winter months and from sunburn in the spring.
Its installation on a frame (arches or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.
At all, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then wintering will go well.
Covering with film
Many people use film for covering. However, you can cover roses with film only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in early spring(or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply rot. In addition, frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can tear).
By the way! If you live in a rainy region, then on top of spunbond It is recommended to cover roses with film on the arches, but it is important not to cover the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.
Note! In all other cases, you should never cover roses with film, they don’t breathe!
Covering with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)
The advantage of covering with non-woven material is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, it still practically does not accumulate under such a covering, most of it rolls off. Thus, the most optimal humidity and air conditions are maintained under the agrofibre.
If you find spunbond grade 30, 40 microns, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).
Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. The ground inside will begin to thaw earlier, and there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used on beds (strawberry) or flower beds to prevent weeds from growing.
Video: covering roses for the winter using spruce branches and spunbond
Sugar sacks
It is quite inexpensive to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags; they practically do not allow moisture to pass through and breathe well (thanks to climbing structure).
Advice! It is quite convenient to put the bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.
Covering with cardboard
Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (it’s also a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so you need to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (2 layers) or film.
And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover them with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and a final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the cover can breathe).
Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film
Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, you should adhere to the following rules.
- Between shelter and rose shoots there must be space - air gap , it will protect the flowers from the cold.
- The shelter must allow air to pass through, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.
Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.
Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden
Features of covering roses in different regions
Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region where the “queen of flowers” is grown, there are some small nuances for covering roses for the winter.
In the south of Russia
If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to hill up the roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or just earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, new ones will grow from the neck.
In the middle zone (Moscow region), in the Urals and Siberia, everything is different.
In the middle zone (Moscow region)
The middle zone is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle zone (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.
In the Urals and Siberia
In principle, sheltering roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to sheltering in the middle zone, but amateur flower growers advise avoiding hilling or using spruce branches (quite controversial) when covering, and simply making an air-dry shelter on arches, stretching, for example, geotextiles on top in 1 layer (density 150).
Video: hiding roses in the Urals and Siberia
How to preserve roses in winter in very cold northern regions
Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where winter temperatures drop to -50 and below.
With such climatic conditions better plant roses in a pot And For the winter, put it in a cellar or basement.
For normal storage in the cellar, a very low temperature must be maintained all winter - no higher than +4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. For more high temperature roses will begin to grow and stretch from lack of light.
Winter care for roses in pots in the cellar is as follows: first of all, you need to ensure that the earthen lump does not dry out “to death,” which means that you should periodically water it dry, adding snow to the pot.
In the spring, gradually begin to bring it into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.
So that even novice gardeners can easily endure the winter with tender and beautiful flowers and delight them in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in covering them for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the characteristics of different types and varieties of roses, the optimal timing of shelter, as well as the natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable methods of protection during thaws and frosts.
Video: how to properly cover roses for the winter
Important! If you you do not want so that under the shelter of a rose chewed by mice, then you need to put special sent baits or, alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).
In contact with
Wintering roses.
One of the very important measures is protecting plants from frost. Its implementation begins when determining the location for future plantings and selecting varieties. Plants that are well developed, properly nourished (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus) and not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier. Roses with immature shoots, which continue to develop until the arrival of frost, are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out.
Therefore, we must avoid everything that interferes with the ripening of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing in late autumn. This means that a gardener who grows roses should not: acquire seedlings prematurely; plant plants in the shade or directly under the canopy of trees; apply fertilizers late, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen or feed plants with it in July and later; water, hill up plants at the end of summer and autumn and cut flowers on long stems at this time (in September and October).
Only in November, before covering the roses for the winter, do they loosen the soil around them. If autumn is dry, then the bushes are watered before frost sets in.
The hardiness and frost resistance of a variety is especially important when it comes to planting a climbing rose, which is very difficult to cover for the winter. In our climatic conditions, most roses grown need to be protected from the cold, but it can be difficult to determine exactly when they should be protected from future frosts. Some years, the warm autumn weather will last a long time, and premature covering would lead to the fact that on sunny days the roses could become steamy, which is harmful for them. Therefore, gardeners have no choice but to carefully monitor the weather and not allow themselves to be caught by surprise. A few degrees below zero will not harm the rose. A slight frost will even help the plant shed its leaves. But as soon as there is a danger that the temperature will drop to -10 ° C or prolonged frosts will set in, you must hurry with covering the roses. It is also important that the earth or other material used is not frozen.
Hybrid tea rose "Bettina" is a medium-sized plant (about 60 cm in height) and spreading in shape. Its leaves have a spectacular metallic tint, and its flowers are orange in color. This rose blooms well and needs enough nutrients
The best protection for roses for the winter is loose, airy arable soil with which they are sprinkled. For bushes planted sparsely or in one row, it is quite enough to sprinkle the roses with soil taken from the surrounding surface. The resulting furrows are filled with manure, which protects the soil from severe freezing in winter, and in the spring it, together with the soil thrown off the plants, will supplement the soil with the necessary humus and nutrients. However, it is necessary to ensure that the manure does not come into contact with the wood itself.
Before sheltering, the bushes should be cleared of leaves and the unripe ends of the shoots should be cut off. Shoots that are too long are also slightly shortened so that they do not interfere with the processing of plants.
The hybrid tea rose "Peter Frankenfeld" has large carmine-red flowers. This rose grows quickly and is not afraid of frost. Its leaves are dark green in color
If the plantings of roses are dense or the plants are arranged in several rows and it is impossible to take arable soil from the flower garden itself, then you have to look for a substitute. Most often in such cases, earthy, well-rotted compost is used (material that has not yet been rotted is not suitable, since the heat it generates will make the covered shoots even more pampered and vulnerable). Crushed peat, which is also used in such cases, absorbs too much water and, when frozen, can damage the plant bark in its lower part with its sharp icy edges. Straw chaff often becomes a habitat for rodents, so at best it can only be used as an admixture to arable soil, which, moreover, with its mass, will press the chaff to the surface and will not allow the wind to tear off the entire cover. If the need for covering material is significant, it is best to prepare it in sufficient quantities in advance, bringing it, for example, from a more distant place. compost pit. Such material can be piled in several piles directly on the paths and, if necessary, immediately thrown onto the roses with a shovel, even if at this time the soil surface is already bound by the first frost or covered with snow.
The hybrid tea rose "Mister Lincoln" is distinguished by its striking large flowers of juicy red color on a thick stalk and strong aroma. Rose bush grows quickly and is not afraid of frost
The soil is sprinkled onto the bush roses already in the second half of November to a height of approximately 20-30 cm. The soil should fill all the space between the shoots so that there are no blown cavities where frosty air could penetrate and where mold could form. In colder places, it’s a good idea to add light coverage from coniferous spruce branches. Roses need special care when preparing for winter. autumn planting, which are not well established in the ground.
The picture shows three stages of bud development. In the foreground is a fully opened flower. As soon as the petals begin to fall and the flower loses its charm, it should be eliminated. Along with the flower, a part of the stem with false leaves and at least one complete one is cut off.
Crowns of standard roses in front winter holidays cleared of foliage, shortened the unripe ends of the shoots and tied with twine. Younger plants can be bent down without any fear, especially if they were planted at an angle. Nevertheless, they must be laid carefully so as not to break the plants at the root collar or in a place where the trunk is damaged. Then you need to make sure that such a wounded place is on the lower part of the resulting arch. The technique for carrying out the entire operation is as follows: with one hand they hold the trunk at the root collar, and with the other they slowly bend it downwards, always doing this through the tongue remaining after the cut. Then, below the crown, the entire plant is secured to the ground using crossed poles, a hook, or a bracket. If you need to preserve the wooden stake to which the rose was tied in the summer longer, then it is removed from the ground, and instead of it, a short peg is inserted to mark the hole.
Correctly selected color of a rose planted near the house. The flowers contrast effectively with the white plaster of its walls.
On light, well-permeable soils, a special hole is dug in the ground for laying the crown. If the rose garden is laid out on heavier soil, then it is better to leave the crown on the surface, since water can accumulate in the hole. Then the crown is thoroughly covered with arable soil so that its layer above the plant reaches 20 cm, especially above the place where the grafting was carried out. The trunk is also covered by raking earth over its roots. This protects the plant not only from frost and temperature changes, but also from possible poisoning by animals. In extreme cold, roses covered for the winter can also be insulated with spruce branches.
Floribunda rose "Europeana" is distinguished by double flowers collected in umbrella inflorescences and a strong aroma. The color of the flowers is bright, blood red. The plant reaches 50-80 cm in height and forms spreading bushes
It is more difficult to protect old standard roses with thick, non-bending trunks and large, heavy crowns from frost. Bending a plant is dangerous: it can be broken. Therefore, such roses are prepared for wintering in a standing position or laid entirely on the ground.
In the latter case, it is recommended to install using the Minnesota method. To do this, first dig up some soil at the base of the plant on the side where it is supposed to be laid later. Then the gardener takes the trunk near the very surface of the earth and pulls it towards himself, at the same time tilting it to the chosen side. His assistant, launching a shovel into the ground from the opposite side at a distance from the trunk at which two-thirds of the roots of the plant are located, presses on it, lifting the root part of the rose upward. Thus, the plant changes its position not in the stem part, but in the more flexible root part, located under the neck. In this case, a significant part of the roots will remain intact in the ground. Some roots on opposite side the root ball will suffer when it is lifted, but such a sacrifice in this case will be justified, since by doing so we save the rose from possible breakage of the trunk or freezing in a standing position if the protective cover in the harsh winter turns out to be insufficient. The trunk placed on the ground in this way should be secured with pegs, as in the first case. Raised roots, trunk and crown must be covered with earth. In the spring, after returning to its place, a healthy rose that has not been damaged by frost will quickly form the required number of new roots.
Standard roses must be protected from frost. You should think about their wintering already when planting, plunging the plants into the ground somewhat obliquely; this will make them easier to bend later. The bent stem is attached to the ground with a hook (the figure shows different kinds hooks), the crown is sprinkled with earth, and then the whole plant is covered with pine needles
Anyone who wants to leave the plant in a standing position for the winter should use airy, light and dry wrapping material to protect it. Do not wrap the rose with airtight plastic film or specially impregnated paper. Under them, in sunny weather, the temperature rises sharply and drops at night, which can adversely affect the rose. The best remedy against frost and wind, especially strong, when the plant can be torn out of the ground by the roots, as well as the danger that it will break under the weight of the snow that has fallen on it, these are sticks stuck obliquely into the ground, which form a cone above the rose located in its center. The crown is then tied, filling the empty spaces, and then, wrapping it entirely in straw or hay, it is securely fastened again with wire. A cover, for example, made of highly breathable burlap, is pulled over the plant prepared in this way.
Floribunda rose "Irish Beauty" with large semi-double pinkish-red flowers with a golden tint reaches a height of 50 cm.
Climbing roses are relatively resistant to low temperatures. Some recently bred varieties (for example, from the group of frequently flowering Rosa kordesii, among whose ancestors there is also the very hardy R. rugosa) are almost completely not afraid of frost. However, for a climbing rose the so-called. “climbing”, obtained by crossing tea hybrids and floribunda, which is sensitive to cold, needs winter shelter. A very effective, although very labor-intensive job is to remove the lashes from the structure and lay them on the ground with a sprinkle of arable soil. In practice, it is very difficult to carry out such an operation, so climbing roses are usually covered with burlap, paper or pine needles for the winter, tying this material to branches climbing along walls, gazebos, pergolas, etc.
It is especially important to shade plants in the winter and pre-spring months and protect them from strong sunlight. It is not an easy task to remove leaves from a climbing rose, on which pathogens and pests can overwinter. In this case, generously spraying the plant and soil with special preparations, preferably from the sulfur group, helps. However, for roses climbing along the walls of a house, they must be used with caution: the splashed liquid can paint the walls yellow.
The rose has all the advantages necessary for a garden plant: it lives a long time, is undemanding, does not require much care, is not afraid of the cold and, of course, is distinguished by its beautiful shape, colorful flowers and delicate aroma
When raking the arable soil, you need to check whether the places where the grafting was carried out and the bases of the shoots, for example, in flower bed roses, are well covered. The climbing rose, which froze to the ground during the harsh winter, has not yet died. The lower eyes, protected as a result of hilling, will give new rich shoots, and by summer the rose will again have healthy branches.
Garden roses, especially low-growing ones and continuously flowering varieties, protect from cold in the same way as flower bed roses, by high hilling. In this case, longer shoots are protected from sunlight with suitable material.
Some garden roses and most so-called botanical roses usually overwinter well in our conditions. The most they need is to cover the surface of the soil around them with a covering, for example, from forest litter, chaff, etc. Roses that are grown on balconies in boxes and buckets must be moved to cold, unheated rooms for the winter.
The winter shelter is removed gradually in early April, preferably on a cloudy day, but under no circumstances in bright sunlight.
It is very difficult to protect the new tender shoots that have already appeared. open roses from late spring frosts. If the bush is closed again, the shoots can be broken. For frozen roses, the main danger is that in the morning, which is usually sunny after a frosty night, they defrost too quickly. If during April or May frosts the temperature is not lower than minus 5 ° C, there is hope to save these shoots, provided that defrosting proceeds slowly. This can be achieved by scattering water as soon as it begins to get light. Light icing caused by water will not harm the plants. However, if the night temperature drops below - 5° C, nothing can save the young shoots. If this has already happened, the bush itself will take care of restoring the branches, of course, if it is planted at the correct depth and the eyes near the root collar are well protected by the earth. The gardener can help him only by promptly pruning the frozen shoots. The rapid recovery of the plant will also be facilitated by watering with a weak solution of fast-acting complete fertilizers and moistening.
Nowadays, roses are already bred in mountainous areas, ensuring their wintering in harsh climatic conditions by taking a number of absolutely exceptional measures.
Snow in the mountains usually lasts throughout the winter, so you don’t have to worry about a thaw with ice without snow, which is especially dangerous for roses. In such places, on the contrary, there is too much snow, as a result of which its lower compressed layers turn into ice; Such an icy mass of snow can break even roses prepared for winter according to all the rules. Many years of experiments conducted in Switzerland, in the Alps, have shown that in mountainous areas located at an altitude of 1200-1900 m above sea level, roses can winter quietly without special shelter. Before the arrival of winter (around October 10), they must be pruned taking into account the condition of the plant, most often very short, sometimes almost at the very place of budding. This allows you to avoid the bush being crushed by a multi-meter layer of snow.
Roses overwintering without shelter
Here are collected those varieties that can winter in the Moscow region without shelter. These are mainly hybrids of alba, rugosa, spinosissima, winter-hardy varieties of Canadian and American selection, ancient winter-hardy varieties, etc. Let me make a reservation right away that everyone has their own understanding of wintering without shelter - some roses can winter “standing up”, some will have to be bent under the snow, etc. Based on this criterion, all varieties are divided into three groups:
1) absolutely winter-hardy - winter in an upright position, do not freeze even in severe winters (this approximately corresponds to winter hardiness zone 3)
2) winter-hardy - winter in an upright position, but in severe winters freezing is possible (this approximately corresponds to winter hardiness zone 4)
3) medium winter-hardy - without shelter they can freeze to the level of snow; it is recommended to bend the shoots to preserve them. (4-5 winter hardiness zone)
Information about winter hardiness was collected on the basis of literature, the Internet, as well as personal experience of variety owners. If one of your varieties behaves differently from what is written here, be sure to write - literature is of course wonderful, but personal experience is immeasurably more important! Good luck to you.
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Absolutely winter-hardy varieties: |
Winter-hardy varieties: |
Medium winter-hardy varieties: |
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The rose is a luxurious decoration for any garden or summer cottage, it was so, it will always be so, it is not for nothing that it is called the queen of flowers. How to preserve roses in the garden in winter, what to cover them with so that they continue to delight us with the onset of the new season? Let's consider ways to protect roses from frost, all stages of preparing them for winter.
What to cover, photo:
This is a rather delicate and whimsical crop; if the bushes are not covered for the winter, the likelihood that they will die is very high. If the preparation of roses for winter was carried out incorrectly, the plant was poorly insulated, the chances of freezing increase. When starting the process, you need to take into account the type of flower and its frost resistance. The most “freezing” groups are tea, hybrid species, and some climbing varieties. A number of Floribunda varieties, low-growing varieties, are more “hardened” and can withstand harsh climates in winter. But among the park representatives you can find real “walruses” who can spend the winter without shelter.
Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter is perhaps one of the most important procedures that ensures harmonious development, abundant flowering with the arrival of the new season. Densely planted bushes can withstand cold weather more easily; it is more convenient to cover them all at once with one cloth. It is somewhat more difficult to wrap erect tall representatives, and climbing ones too, but in any case the work will be justified.
Shelter of a climbing bush, photo:
This is how you can cover the climbing beauty for the winter What kind of work does preparing roses for winter include?
It’s worth thinking about this process in the summer, or rather, at the end of summer, when vigilant gardeners stop feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers. Small amounts of potassium supplements will not hurt with the arrival of autumn; they will help the plant strengthen its branches and trunk before the upcoming cold weather. By this time, you should also stop loosening the soil near the tree trunk, so as not to provoke a new round of shoot growth.
Preparing rose bushes for winter involves pruning them. This will be discussed in more detail below. You should remove everything unnecessary from under the bushes: garbage, fallen leaves, remnants of grass. Cleaning is done not only to maintain cleanliness, but also to ensure that plant debris does not become a haven for harmful fungi. After this, it is recommended to spray the plants with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate diluted with water (3%).
Preparing roses for winter also involves hilling them - this procedure improves the aeration of the root system. Even a small 20-30 cm mound will protect the roots from the cold and help the soil retain air better.
A mound of earth at the roots - in the south this is often enough to prevent the bushes from freezing You should think about covering the bushes already in October, towards the end of the month - when the first frosts make themselves known in your region. How to properly cover roses for the winter? It will be better if by this time the air temperature becomes relatively stable, approximately -5°C. The plant will experience a kind of “hardening”; at higher temperatures it is not worth insulating roses, since additional heat can provoke shoot growth. Moreover, earlier shelter is fraught with rotting of the root system, again, due to lack of air. To insulate the bushes, choose a dry, frosty day; the soil should not be wet (this is important!) to avoid the activation of fungi.
What is the best covering material for roses for the winter? The choice here is quite wide: thick polyethylene film, spunbond, geotextiles, lutrasil, dry leaves, burlap, cardboard, plywood, spruce branches. The variety and characteristics of the type of roses determine the method of shelter. For some representatives, insulation from coniferous spruce branches is enough, while for others you will have to mount a hut from cardboard or boards with plywood. There are many ways to insulate, let's look at the most basic, “universal” options.
Shelter with spruce branches, photo:
Cover the baby with spruce branches How to cover roses to preserve them in winter?
Whatever the shelter material, you should always leave free air space between it and the plant. Damping off is no less dangerous than freezing, and with the onset of a thaw (if the cover is too dense), the plants run the risk of being frozen or getting wet.
Air-dry shelter
This method will provide the bushes with high-quality aeration, while the temperature under the shelter will remain at approximately the same level. You will have to mount a frame (canopy) over the plant; it can be made from plywood sheets or fragments of a board, and then cover the resulting structure with a special covering material or plastic film. Covering material for roses for the winter should be secured to the ground with something heavy (bricks, stones or metal brackets). Such a “house” must be very strong, because it will have to withstand the weight of the snow masses. Its dimensions, and especially its height, must exceed the dimensions of the bush. With the onset of spring, you will be able to fold the material on one side (or lift it from below), thereby ventilating the plant.
Insulation using spruce branches
Spruce branches (coniferous branches) are an excellent natural covering material for roses for the winter, which will cost you completely free. Around the beginning of November, you should stock up on spruce branches. After harvesting and pruning bushes, the ground around the tree trunk should be covered with coniferous branches. The shoots that remain after pruning must be carefully wrapped with a wide fabric rope. If the plant has long branches, then after tying them they should be carefully bent to the ground, as far as their flexibility allows (without the threat of breaking). Secure the branches with wide metal staples (bend pieces of thick wire like a hairpin), throw spruce branches on top. The main thing is not to forget to cover the ground with spruce branches in the place where the ground part of the bush will lie. This especially applies to climbing varieties.
Fixing the climbing variety, photo:
If you have doubts, you can additionally cover the flower with non-woven material directly on top of the spruce branches, securing the ends of the cover with heavy objects. In the spring you can lift them, thereby providing the bush with proper ventilation. How to prepare low-growing roses for winter? Such bushes should first be hilled up (you can use peat) and covered generously with the same spruce branches on top. After the snow falls, a snowdrift can be formed on top of the branches
Shelter of a small bush, photo:
Use of agrofibre, spunbond, geotextiles
This material is widely used in various fields related to plants. Covering bushes with it for the winter is an excellent solution, since it allows air to pass through well, at the same time protects from frost, and prevents condensation from accumulating during a thaw. How to use this covering material for roses for the winter? Again, it is better to make a frame: metal arcs or fragments of a chain-link mesh are suitable for creating a “canopy” over the bush. The ends of such a frame are securely fixed in the soil, the covering material is folded in half (this is an important point!) and the structure is covered. The edges of the covering are secured using the methods described above - using heavy objects or a long board (it will be convenient to lift it in the spring for ventilation).
Frame over a small bush, photo:
How to cover roses for the winter if they are small (for example, dwarf varieties)? For these purposes, you can use cardboard boxes as a frame, after making holes in them. Plastic vegetable containers or baskets that have become unusable can also be used quite successfully. Any of these structures can be covered with agrofibre on top and secured using the methods described above. To protect standard crops, you can use jute bags: cut off the bottom, put it on the plant, tie it from the bottom (where the crown begins), cover it with dry leaves or, better yet, spruce branches, tie it again, but at the top. The trunk can also be wrapped in burlap, and then re-wrapped in the resulting cocoon with lutrasil (for reliability).
Which roses do not need to be covered for the winter? Park crops have sufficient winter hardiness to do without protective coating in winter. In fact, some experts argue that the “park” classification does not exist as such, supposedly this is the definition of the most unpretentious varieties.
According to reviews on the relevant forums, these are: “Alba Mediland”, hybrid Rugosa, Spinosissima (prickly rose), winter-hardy varieties of Canadian and American roses, etc. The so-called winter hardiness scale of these flowers has three levels, which are determined by numbers: absolute winter hardiness (3- I zone), winter hardiness (4th zone), average winter hardiness(4-5th zone). If you buy seedlings, there will definitely be an indicator number on the label.
Preparing roses for winter - pruning
This procedure is mandatory for most varieties. The exceptions are small-flowered climbing species, parks, groundcovers, as well as those representatives that produce color once a year. Formative spring pruning recommended for all varieties, but in this moment We are talking specifically about the autumn procedure. Pruning roses in autumn is aimed at maintaining the vitality of the plant, strengthening it, and increasing frost resistance. Proper removal of old branches contributes to the formation of healthy, strong shoots, as well as the formation of new buds in the next season.
How to prune roses in autumn? Both old bushes and new young bushes should be subjected to this procedure. Unripe shoots, blossoming flowers, weak or diseased branches must be cut out. All of the listed plant parts, if not removed, can become a source of rot, fungi, and various diseases. After autumn pruning 3 or 5 of the strongest healthy shoots should remain on the bush. All removed parts should be destroyed immediately. Old branches, stems that are already 3 years old, multiple lateral shoots, and shoots with dry bark must also be removed. Pruning is important before covering plants for the winter - a “trimmed” bush will be much more comfortable under an insulating structure.
How to properly prune roses in the fall? There are several rules that are best adhered to - for example, the cutting tool must be very sharp. A dull knife or pruning shears will leave a torn cut, injure the bark, and the damaged area can become a source of penetration of pathogenic microorganisms. Coarse old branches are best removed using a hacksaw with a new, sharp blade. The cut should be made above the bud (which has not yet had time to germinate), retreating about 1 cm from it. Pay attention to the presence of healthy white wood at the cut site; the cut itself should be made as if at an angle. The approximate time for pruning is the beginning of November; for this, choose a sunny, fine day.
Short crop, photo:
Before pruning roses for the winter, be sure to disinfect them. cutting tools(you can even use a solution of potassium permanganate). Lubricate the cut areas with garden varnish. And one more thing - we should not forget about “balance”; we should not get too carried away with circumcision. Ideally, the dimensions of the root system should correspond to the volumes of the remaining above-ground part after pruning! Otherwise, the plant’s nutritional system will be disrupted, it will get sick or even die. When starting the procedure, keep in mind varietal characteristics, specifics, the speed of its growth. Thus, one of three types of pruning can be applied to each individual bush.
How to properly prune roses in the fall:
- Short pruning (strong) is recommended for varieties of multi-flowered polyanthus roses, miniature species, tea and hybrid representatives. Climbing ramblers should also be pruned short with the arrival of autumn. After the procedure, only the base of the bush with a couple of dormant buds remains, all shoots and branches are removed.
- Medium pruning (moderate) is aimed at activating the growth of fresh shoots with the arrival of spring. With this method of pruning, plant branches are shortened by 1.2 parts of their length. Weak stems are removed completely, and short shoots (about 30 cm) with four or five buds are left at the base of the bush. This procedure is suitable for many medium-sized varieties, hybrid teas, and also for Pernepian roses.
- Long pruning (weak) allows you to leave tall branches on the bushes, shortened by about two-thirds of the original length (only the upper segment is removed). Approximately 8-9 buds are left on each shoot. This pruning method is recommended for tall hybrid-tea species, antique English roses, individual species, and delicate Bengal representatives. This procedure promotes early flowering, but if it is carried out regularly, the roses begin to lose their shape, the buds become smaller, and the number of flowers decreases.
Should roses be pruned for winter? climbing varieties? Since this category of plants is a favorite of many summer gardeners, they are worth mentioning separately. Shortening the shoots of climbing varieties should be approached individually, taking into account the characteristics of their species subgroup.
They need to be pruned very carefully, moderately, choosing the longest branches. As for dry, weakened, diseased or damaged shoots, as well as remaining flowers or fruits, all of them must be radically removed. Please note that active shortening of branches in climbing representatives leads to the growth of multiple “empty” (non-flowering) shoots.
Now you will know how to prune roses correctly for the winter. To summarize, it is worth clarifying that in central Russia this procedure is best carried out around the 20th of November. If there haven't been any frosts yet, don't even think about pruning, because otherwise buds will begin to sprout on the bushes. When frost comes, then get down to business. Do not forget about removing young green stems that have not yet covered with bark. At the first frost they will die, and with the onset of warmth they will begin to rot, spreading bacteria and fungi in the insulating cocoon. Put on a rough gardening glove and be sure to remove all the foliage from the branches - this will make it easier for the bush to “breathe.”
It is not so important what kind of variety grows on your site. The specifics of preparing this crop for winter are the same for all types: cleaning the soil from plant residues and debris, hilling (covering) the root collar, covering the ground trunk circle foliage or spruce branches, laying the plant on the ground. You now know how to preserve roses in the garden in winter and how to cover them. Lapnik, lutrasil or spunbond, durable polyethylene will not allow this delicate crop to freeze when frost arrives. Sheltering and pruning roses for the winter is an important agrotechnical measure on which their health and beauty depend.
It wouldn’t hurt to watch the so-called visual aid - how to prune roses in the fall, video:
To make it easier to cover the rose, bend the branches and secure them with stones Roses- beautiful flowers that grow in almost every summer cottage. When to cover roses for the winter, because the cold climate has a detrimental effect on flowers, so it is necessary to organize the correct wintering of roses in time.
Let's take a closer look: when to cover roses, how to prepare roses for winter, how to prune correctly in the fall, how to cover roses for the winter.
Not all varieties of roses require shelter; it all depends on the winter hardiness of the variety. Park varieties and rose hips are considered absolutely winter-hardy, while the rest are recommended to be covered.
When to cover roses?
The timing of covering roses depends on the region of residence and weather. In any case, you need to cover roses when persistent cold sets in with temperatures down to -5 degrees below zero. Approximately this is the end of October - mid-November, it all depends on what kind of autumn it is.
How to prepare roses for winter
The very first step in preparing roses is shoot pruning. It is necessary to trim off all soft, grassy, immature shoots. Such shoots will still rot and cause the development of various infections.
You need to leave only strong, mature stems, cutting them to a length of 30-40 cm from the ground. It is better to make the cut itself obliquely, in the direction from the bud down, so that the bud remains at the top.
This way the bud will not rot due to stagnation of water; it will roll down.
If you combine pruning with bush shaping, it is better to make a cut above a bud that looks outward of the bush. In the future, the shoot from this bud will grow not inside the bush, but outwards.
Hill up the roses by covering the root collar 20 cm deep with dry soil mixed with peat - thereby insulating root system and reduce the risk of the bush freezing. Prepare the soil in advance, and do not take it from a plot with roses.
How to cover roses for the winter
After the flower shoots are prepared, they need to be covered with roses. any natural materials . This can be dry leaves, remains of dried flowers, spruce branches, trimmings from any shrubs in your garden.
Using this organic matter you need to build a small hut. In this way, organic matter will protect roses from overheating in autumn and spring - after all, this is the main reason for the death of flowers.
Therefore, if roses are covered immediately after the first frost, the heat usually returns after some time, and as a result, condensation accumulates under the cover - an ideal environment for the development of fungal diseases. As a result, affected roses do not overwinter well.
There must be dry air under the shelter. And if the thaw returns after frost, then ventilation holes must be provided in the shelters or the ends should be opened slightly for ventilation.
Such a shelter will protect the roses from frost, and the spunbond will create the right balance between moisture and air.
Autumn moisture will be partially absorbed by the material and simply roll down the walls. Organic matter will also partially take over the condensate.
Video - How to cover roses for the winter?