Technology for high-quality surface painting water-based compositions consists of several sequential operations. Careful execution allows us to consider this finish to be of high quality.
These operations are: surface cleaning, smoothing, filling cracks, priming, partial priming, sanding, first full putty, sanding, second full putty, sanding, priming with tint. first coloring, second coloring, trimming.
Cleaning: removing dust, dirt, splashes and drips from the surface using metal spatulas, scrapers or mechanized methods. (Fig.1).
Smoothing (performed only on a plastered surface) - treating the surface with a pumice flake using a piece of wood. Elimination of errors not removed during cleaning.
The cracks are repaired with a knife or a spatula itself in order to prevent its further spread (Fig. 3).
Primer – preliminary application of primer compositions to the surface. Done with brushes. Rollers with a spray gun. The composition is applied to the surface, then shaded in a horizontal and then vertical position. (Fig.4)
Partial lubrication is carried out with the aim of eliminating depressions and holes formed during crack filling in order to level the surface (Figure 5a). It is carried out using a spatula using the herringbone technique. The putty is applied at an angle of 45 degrees to the crack axis on one side and the other. The filled crack is smoothed with a spatula (Fig. 5b).
Grinding of greased areas is carried out with the aim of eliminating protruding traces of the previous grease on the surface before applying a continuous layer of putty. So that it lies flat and smooth on the surface. (Figure 6). When performing this operation, a block or pumice is used. Grinding is carried out using circular and vertical movements. This operation is carried out only after the putty has completely dried.
The first continuous filling of the surface is done manually and leveled with a spatula. The painter puts putty on an auxiliary spatula. Then he transfers it to the main spatula and applies it to the surface with vertical movements, with the edge of each next layer overlapping the previous one. (Figure 7).
After the putty layer has dried, it is sanded, and then a second continuous putty is applied in order to finally level the surface. Then this layer of putty is also sanded after drying. After sanding the second layer of putty, the surface is primed with a tint, adding the color of the future coating to the primer. The techniques for applying this primer are the same as for the first primer.
After this layer has dried, begin the first painting. (Fig8).
When painting surfaces with rollers, first remove hard-to-reach areas (joint corners, etc.) with a brush. After applying the pre-tinted paint composition to the surface, it is shaded vertically. The roller moves evenly over the entire surface with smooth movements, with each subsequent layer overlapping the previous one.
After the first layer of paint has dried, apply the second layer.
In some cases, when performing high-quality painting, surface trimming is used - so that the surface becomes matte, devoid of shine and rough. Trimming is carried out with miter brushes on the freshly applied second layer of paint using miter brushes in two directions at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. Hold the miter perpendicular to the surface. Figure 9.
Painting work - applying painting compounds to the surfaces of structures of buildings and structures in order to increase their service life, improve sanitary and hygienic conditions in the premises and give them a beautiful appearance.
Every year, the interior decoration of premises becomes more and more elegant, the requirements for architectural expressiveness, interior and exterior design of buildings, and the quality of finishing are increasing. These requirements are met by new effective, economic Decoration Materials- new synthetic drying oils, varnishes and paints, especially water-based and organosilicon.
It would seem that painting a wall is not a difficult task. However, painting requires particularly careful preparation of the wall before repair work: paint will not hide cracks, irregularities, or any other wall defects. In addition, there are many ways to apply paint, depending on which it improves appearance, and the paint lasts longer. The cleanliness of painted surfaces depends on the quality of the operations performed and the sequence of work. In high-quality painting, the smallest grains in the paint are unacceptable. For painting work you need various brushes, rollers, spatulas, rulers.
When painting, paints of various compositions are used: glue, lime, oil, enamel and others. All paints contain various binders, pigments and auxiliary substances. The ratio of parts in paints is not random, so adding some substance at random, such as a solvent, instead of improving the quality of the painted surface can lead to its decrease.
Typically paint is sold in finished form. If you need to dilute it, you only need to add the most required amount solvent, otherwise the paint will run off, especially from vertical surfaces. If the paint in a can is covered with a film, you should under no circumstances stir it, but carefully cut it with a knife as close to the body of the can as possible and remove it. If the film cannot be completely removed, it is advisable to strain the paint. For this purpose, a nylon stocking is usually used, which is used to cover the opening of an empty, clean jar. There is a generally accepted system of designations for paints and varnishes, which reflects their properties, purpose, and operating conditions - a kind of compass in the boundless sea of varnishes and paints.
Types of paints
According to the primary purpose and in relation to the operating conditions of the coatings paints and varnishes are divided into groups:
Weather-resistant, limited weather-resistant, protective, conservation, water-resistant, special, oil- and petrol-resistant, chemical-resistant, heat-resistant, electrical insulating. The classification also takes into account the type of film former, which for brevity is denoted by two letters.
Varnishes, enamels, primers and putties are produced on the basis of various resins: polycondensation, polymerization, natural, and cellulose ethers.
Paints and varnishes based on polycondensation resins:
alkyd-urethane - (AU), glyphthalic - (GF), organosilicon - (KO), melamine - (ML), urea (urea) - (MP), pentaphthalic - (PF), polyurethane - (UR).
Polyester: unsaturated - (PE), saturated - (SH), phenolic - (PL), phenol-alkyd - (FA), cyclohexane - (CH), epoxy - (EP), epoxyether - (EF), etrifthalic - (ET).
Paints and varnishes based on polymerization resins: rubber - (KCh), oil- and alkyd-styrene - (MS), petroleum-polymer - (NP), perchlorovinyl - (CV), polyacrylate - (AK), polyvinyl acetal - (VL), polyvinyl acetate - (VA ). Based on copolymers: vinyl acetate - (VS), vinyl chloride - (CS), fluoroplastic - (FP).
Paints and varnishes based on natural resins: bitumen - (BT), rosin - (KF), oil - (MA), shellac - (ShL), amber - (YAN).
Paints and varnishes based on cellulose ethers: cellulose acetobutyrate - (AB), cellulose acetate - (AC), cellulose nitrate - (NC), ethylcellulose - (EC).
Marking of paints and paintwork materials
Each paint and varnish material is assigned a name and designation consisting of letters and numbers. The designation of varnishes consists of four, pigmented materials - of five groups of signs.
The first group means the type of paint and varnish material and is written with the word - varnish, paint, varnish, primer, putty.
The second group indicates the type of film-forming substance, denoted by the two letters indicated above - MA, PF, ML, etc. (ML enamel...; PF varnish...).
The third group indicates the preferential operating conditions of the paint and varnish material, indicated by one number from 1 to 9. A hyphen is placed between the second and third groups of characters (enamel ML-1.., varnish PF-2...).
The fourth group is the serial number assigned to the paint and varnish material during its development, denoted by one, two or three digits (ML-1110 enamel, PF-283 varnish). The fifth group (for pigmented materials) indicates the color of the paint and varnish material - enamel, paint, primer, putty - in full (ML-P enamel 1.0 gray-white). When designating the first group of marks for oil paints containing only one pigment, instead of the word “paint” the name of the pigment is indicated, for example “red lead”, “mummy”, “ocher”, etc. (red lead MA-15).
For a number of materials, indices are placed between the first and second groups of signs:
B - without volatile solvent
B - for water-based
VD - for water-dispersed
OD - for organodispersive
P - for powder
The third group of marks for primers and semi-finished varnishes is designated by one zero (primer GF-021), and for putties - by two zeros (putty PF-002). After the hyphen, a single zero is placed before the third group of characters for oil based paints (red lead MA-Q15).
For paints and varnishes produced with mixed film-forming agents, the second group of signs is designated by the film-forming agent, which determines the properties of the material.
In the fourth group of signs for oil paints, instead of a serial number, a number is placed indicating which drying oil the paint was made from: natural drying oil, drying oil "Oxol", glyphthalic drying oil, pentaphthalic drying oil, combined drying oil.
In some cases, to clarify specific properties paint coating after the serial number they put a letter index in the form of one or two capital letters, for example: B - highly viscous; M - matte; N - with filler; PM - semi-matte; PG - reduced flammability, etc.
All the information necessary for the consumer of the paint and varnish material is provided on the label, which contains the full name of the material indicating GOST or TU, its purpose, method of application, precautions, manufacturer, production date and batch number. The label is a very important part of the packaging of paint and varnish material. It is not always true that the jar must be made of lithographed metal. A colorful label made on good paper is not inferior to lithography in artistic and aesthetic terms.
When choosing a paint, first of all you need to proceed from how durable the coating should be during operation, take it into account decorative look and don't forget about the cost.
Types of wall paints
Paints for exterior and interior works vary in resistance to rain, sun and temperature fluctuations. Paints that are intended for outdoor use can also be used for interior decoration premises. The choice of one or another paint depends on what kind of finishing the room needs to be done - simple, improved or high-quality.
Paints based on mineral binders are intended for simple finishing of stone, concrete and plastered walls, for painting swimming pools, wells and fences. They provide loose, breathable coatings that can withstand water, especially cement-based paints, and temperature changes.
Adhesive paints are used to finish plastered, concrete and wooden surfaces, and casein ones are suitable for both external and internal work. Dextrin, starch and bone glue paints can only be used to paint walls and ceilings in enclosed spaces. An important advantage of adhesive paints is their porosity: coatings made from them do not interfere with air exchange; moisture that can form on a damp wall or ceiling easily evaporates through them.
The best are paints and enamels based on synthetic binders or drying oils, which are used for high-quality finishing. There are among them suitable for both external and internal work, as well as those intended only for internal work. They can give matte, glossy and semi-gloss finishes. Some of them form continuous coatings (for example, alkyd), others (for example, water-based coatings) are porous. Paints that form continuous coatings are unsuitable for damp or damp walls, and alkyd paints are also not resistant to alkalis, and therefore cannot be used to paint freshly plastered or concrete walls.
Oil paints are similar in properties to paints based on synthetic binders. They form non-porous coatings that are not resistant to alkalis and moisture.
Painter's tools
Swing brushes. Mainly produced large sizes- d 60 and 65 mm with a hair length of 100 mm. In order to choose a good brush, you need to check it for bending - when bending, the hair should straighten immediately, leaving no visible curvature.
Brushes in the shape of a bunch, requiring special knitting, are called weight brushes, brushes in a cartridge with a handle are called piece brushes. The weight brushes, after being tied with strong twine, are placed on a long pin handle. Any brush is tied up because long hair Doesn't blend paint well and creates a lot of smudges. Therefore, professional painters believe that for glue painting, untied hair should be 7-9 cm long, for oil and enamel painting - 5-7 cm.
Whitewash brushes are 200 mm wide, 45-60 mm thick, and hair length is 100 mm. Such brushes are 2.5 times more productive than fly brushes and allow you to obtain cleaner coloring. Sometimes they are used instead of a whitewash brush - a whitewash brush, which is made from half-ridge bristles with 50% horsehair. They are round in shape (diameter 120 and 170 mm, with a bristle length of 94 -100 mm) or rectangular. The handle of the maklovits is attached in the middle of the block or made removable with screws. The work of the mackerel is carried out from a stepladder or from the floor. Paint brushes and whitewash brushes are recommended for use with glue and casein paints. Painting done with whitewash brushes or paint brushes does not require fluting.
Handbrake Have small size and are placed on a short wooden handle. They are made from pure bristles, as well as with the addition of horsehair. Handbrake handles are available in d - 26, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 54 mm. The handbrake is tied with twine, which, as the hand wears out, is moved, increasing the length of the hair. The length of the remaining hair should be no more than 30-40 mm. Handbrake paints are used for painting small surfaces with glue and oil paints. Handles made of soft bristles fixed in metal rings are suitable for any work. If the bristles are fixed with glue, then the brushes should not be used for painting with adhesive and lime-based paint compositions.
Flutes are flat brushes with a width of 25, 60, 62, 76 and 100 mm, made of high-quality bristles or badger hair, fixed in a metal frame, which is put on a short wooden handle. Flutes are used mainly to smooth out freshly applied paint, that is, to eliminate marks from a hand brush or handbrake. Flutes can also be used for coloring.
The trimmers are rectangular in shape and made of hard bristles. Their main purpose is to treat a freshly painted surface. The trimmer is applied evenly, smoothing out uneven paint. As a rule, glue and oil paints are used for finishing. File brushes are available in diameters from 6 to 18 mm and are made of white, stiff bristles mounted in a metal cartridge frame. The cartridges are mounted on wooden handles of various lengths. These brushes are designed for drawing out narrow strips, called panels, or for painting hard-to-reach places where the handbrake does not fit. For painting radiators, special radiator brushes with a handle curved at the base are produced.
In many respects, rollers are much more convenient and more productive than brushes. Especially when painting large areas. In addition, rollers can not only be used for painting, but also for priming. Depending on the work performed, rollers of various sizes are used: with a diameter from 4 to 7 cm, a length from 10 to 25 cm. Fur, foam and velor rollers are most often used. When preparing for work, the fur roller needs to be immersed in water for some time - this will reduce the hardness of the hair covering. However, it should be remembered that it is not recommended to use a fur roller when working with lime paints - lime destroys fur very quickly. At the end of the work, be sure to wash the rollers in warm water and soap, completely removing the paint.
Painting technology
When performing painting work, you need to have various auxiliary materials on hand: gypsum for sealing cracks and correcting surface defects, a solution for repairing plaster or fluting stains and deposits on the surface of chimney masonry, degreasers, adhesive tape for covering areas that cannot be painted, etc. Single-layer painting does not provide sufficient protection for the base, so you need to successively apply several layers of paint, each of which performs its own functions. The bottom layer serves to adhere the multilayer coating to the base. The covering layer, which completes the paint coating, protects the lower layers from external influences and performs decorative functions. If oil paint is applied in one layer, the surface will become wrinkled and cracks will appear over time.
The number of layers depends on the type of paint, the required quality of coating and the type of base. Adhesive paint is applied in two layers, water-based paint in three, and some glossy polishes in six or more layers. Each subsequent layer should contain more pigment and less binder. For example, the emulsion from the primer is heavily diluted with water, but for the coating layer it is not diluted at all.
Before you start painting, you need to prepare the base. The surface to be painted must be cleaned of dirt, rust, grease stains and, in addition, dried (this especially applies to wooden surfaces). If water remains in the pores of the wood, the paint will not penetrate there. It will remain on the surface and then fall off. If the wood is dry on the surface but wet inside, when heated under sun rays and under other influences, water vapor will put pressure on the paint coating from below and tear it apart. To obtain a high-quality paint coating, you do not need to paint at low or too low temperatures. high temperatures, as well as in the sun, in a draft, in fog and in light rain. During painting work, the temperature should not be lower than 5 C.
When painting, hold the brush with a slight inclination to the surface. It is immersed in paint, dipping not completely, but only a quarter of the length of the hair; excess paint from the brush is removed on the edge of the jar. First, paint is applied to edges, corners and hard-to-reach places, and only then to smooth surfaces. When painting overhead surfaces, paint often drips onto the brush handle. To prevent this from happening, you can take an old rubber ball, cut it in half and insert a brush handle into one of the halves. To prevent the ball from jumping off the handle, an elastic band is secured underneath it. If there is no ball, put a glassine circle with a diameter of 5-7 cm on the handle.
When cleaning a ceiling, if it has not been previously painted, first remove the old paint. A small stain can be washed out hot water using a brush and a rag, and thick ones should be cleaned dry with a scraper. You can pre-moisten it with hot water using a brush and after 40 minutes remove it with a scraper or spatula.
The scraper or spatula is placed at an angle to the surface and, pressing lightly on the tool, removes the layer of whitewash with sliding movements forward. In the same way, splashes of solution, paint layers and other contaminants are removed. Cracks in the ceiling and walls must first be widened and then lubricated with the appropriate composition. The grouting is done with a spatula, sealing not only the embroidered cracks, but also the cavities and depressions that are on the surface. After drying, the greased areas are sanded and primed.
Paint application methods
Although recently applying paint with a roller or using paint sprayers has become increasingly common, at home they still use a brush. You need to prepare the brush - rinse it between your fingers and blow it out. For painting you can use flat and round brushes. The size of round brushes is selected depending on the nature of the surface or object being painted, as well as the thickness of the paint and varnish materials. In a new round brush, you need to shorten the length of the hair by tying it, otherwise it will splatter the paint.
The length of free hair is approximately 30-40 cm. The paint is applied evenly, first with movements in one direction, and then perpendicular to it, blending well until the entire surface is evenly painted. The last movements of the brush on horizontal surfaces are performed along their long sides, on vertical ones from top to bottom, and if wooden surfaces are painted, then in the direction of the annual layers of wood. If the paint is on drying oil, smooth out the last layer with light brush movements in a perpendicular direction. For smoothing, it is best to use a hair brush.
Large areas when painting need to be divided into several small ones, limited by seams or strips. This takes into account the type of paint material. Door leaf With drying oil paint you can paint everything at once. If you are painting a room with oil enamel, it is better to apply the paint to smaller surfaces.
When painting vertical surfaces, the paint must be thoroughly shaded so that it does not run off or form streaks. The paint flows off after some time after its application, so there is no need to use too thin paint or apply it in a thick layer. If you are painting a complex relief surface with various recesses, you need to remember that you cannot apply too much paint in them, because it will drain, wrinkle the surface and dry poorly.
To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use self-adhesive tape, glued to a line previously marked using a cord or plumb line. To wet the rollers with paint, you will need a flat metal box with longitudinal walls in the shape of a trapezoid. A sieve with cells measuring 10-20 mm is installed in the box, along which a roller soaked in paint is passed to eliminate excess and evenly distribute the paint along the entire perimeter of the roller.
The work is done this way. 3-4 strips of paint are applied to a surface of about 1 m2, after which these strips are rolled with a roller with wrung-out paint in a horizontal direction (with a slight inclination of the roller) until the paint is evenly distributed on the surface. If it is necessary to limit the area to be painted, its edges are covered with thick paper or sealed with adhesive tape.
The spray paint method has several advantages, especially when painting large, uniform, non-overlapping surfaces. Paint and varnish materials of all types are applied in this way quickly and evenly.
This method is also convenient for painting hard-to-reach surfaces, for example the inside of radiators. central heating. During the spraying process, tiny particles of paint fall on the surface to be painted, connect with one another and form a uniform layer. When applying paint in this way, you need to cover all surrounding surfaces that are not to be painted, so as not to waste time and effort cleaning them later. Suitable for this purpose adhesive tapes, which can be used to secure paper or film. To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use self-adhesive tape, glued to a line previously marked using a cord or plumb line. As soon as the liquid level drops, the container must be filled, otherwise, after sucking in air, the paint sprayer will eject an uncontrollable amount of paint.
When processed with a sponge, a soft spotted pattern is created. Moreover, the light tone of the lower layer (background) will look like veins of an indeterminate shape. The paint should not be pure white, it should be slightly tinted, which will give a more sophisticated effect. If you need to get a more contrasting solution, you need to apply a dark pattern over matte emulsion paint - you will get an original shimmering pattern. Applying paint with a sponge can lighten or, conversely, darken the overall tone. For the background and foreground, you need to choose harmoniously combined shades of a single color range or complementary colors of equal intensity.
Densely applied, without significant gaps, the pattern gives the impression of an intensely colored surface. In turn, the color and tone of the main background can affect the intensity of the pattern applied on top of it. Sponging is suitable for almost any surface, but it is most effective on large surfaces, such as walls. Interestingly, this method is indispensable for disguising not very attractive objects, such as radiators.
Both for the main layer and for the decorative layer applied on top of it, use undiluted emulsion paint for walls, and meat paint for wooden parts and metal parts. For such work, they use natural sea sponge, the structure of which has the largest number of voids. If the pattern obtained on the wall repeats and becomes regular, you need to tear the sponge and continue working with its inner, most uneven surface.
To apply a pattern with a sponge, paint of a darker tone, intended for applying a pattern with a sponge, needs to be placed in a tray and stirred thoroughly. You will first need to soften the sponge - soak it in water if you are going to paint with an emulsion, and if using oil paint - in white spirit. Wring out the sponge, then dip it in the paint and press it against the grooved inclined compartment of the tray so that the paint saturates the entire sponge.
After this, it is necessary to remove excess paint from the sponge using light, jerky touches of a sheet of paper: if the sponge is oversaturated, the drawing may end up with blots or even blur.
Movements need to start from top to bottom. Work with light, jerky touches, do not rotate or press the sponge too hard. The position of the hand with the sponge must be changed in such a way as to avoid a regular, repeating pattern. When the sponge becomes drier, you can work in the corners and along the baseboard, here you involuntarily have to press it, and the danger of squeezing out excess paint is real.
First, the surface must be treated with a sparse pattern that does not completely cover the lower, main tone and left to dry. Rinse the sponge, and then apply a second layer, overlapping the first so that they merge into the overall pattern. When the second layer has dried, you need to touch up individual spots that stand out with a light color. You can use a background color or “ivory”, which will soften the overall pattern.
To touch-up walls, you need to prepare a glaze by mixing 70% varnish, 20% oil paint and 10% white spirit, and then apply the composition along the base tone in a strip 500 mm wide from top to bottom. While the glaze has not dried, you need to apply a dotted stroke over it with a brush with a quick and confident movement. Then continue processing until the entire surface is covered with a stroke. To hide the joints, it is necessary to overlap the adjacent strip. If the surface treated in this way needs to be washed in the future, a layer of matte polyurethane varnish should be applied on top of it.
A touch of color produces a more elegant design than sponging. It is usually done over uncured glaze or varnish and creates a spectacular surface dotted with dots through which the background shines through. The tone and color for the line drawing are chosen according to the same principle as when processing with a sponge. Let the background have a lighter shade, so that a haze of color is formed, and for the stroke more dark tone: It will bring out the pattern better. The reverse combination is also possible.
Line art can be applied to any surface, but it looks especially impressive on walls. small rooms, on doors and on furniture. For shading, it is better to use undiluted emulsion or oil paint (according to the surface material). To apply strokes to uncured glaze, you can only use oil paint. Special brushes designed for this work are made of badger hair, but almost any flat brush(even a new shoe) can be used, provided that the bristles on it are the same length.
Technology for applying line art: pour a small amount of paint of the lightest color into a tray or flat dish (with a layer of at least 3 mm), dip a dry brush into the paint, only lightly touching the surface with it so that the bristles do not absorb too much of it. Treatment should begin from top to bottom, making jerky movements with the brush and changing the angle of its position on the plane of the wall. To enhance the design, you need to apply another layer (using light pressure with the brush) to achieve greater contrast. If blots appear, they should be covered with a shade of the base primer. At the end of the work, you need to fill the corners, the surface around the platbands and near the baseboard with an almost dry brush, using the color of the first layer of knurling.
Processing with fabric
Peeling off the paint or rolling out with a rope produces a softer and more indefinite pattern, but these methods require more skill. Prints that look like folded petals are made by applying or, conversely, removing paint using a piece of fabric.
All of these methods are carried out using fresh glaze solution. As with previous processing methods, the pattern is applied from top to bottom in vertical stripes 500 mm wide. First you need to soak a piece of fabric in white spirit, wring it out and crumple it in your hand or twist it into a rope (into a roller). Then lightly dip the fabric into the glaze.
To apply a design with a roller, you need to hold it with both hands and roll it from top to bottom, both in a straight line and in irregular, random directions. In this case, you can get a vague, confusing pattern. The flap needs to be shaken off often and crumpled in your hand again or changed (the flap) as soon as it becomes too oversaturated with paint. The joints between individual strips must be masked especially carefully.
To apply paint using a crumpled piece of fabric, use emulsion or oil paint (according to the surface material). For the roller rolling or paint removal method, only oil paint should be used, both for the bottom, main layer, and for rolling. The color for the roll will be the main tone, so you need to choose it darker than the background. The fabric method, in addition to decorating walls or individual pieces of furniture, is good in cases where it is necessary to match the color of built-in equipment to the color of the walls. You can use any fabric - from muslin or gauze to suede - as long as it is non-fibrous and takes the dye well.
Technology of applying a pattern using fabric.
A little paint needs to be poured into a tray with a flat bottom. When dipped into the emulsion, a dry cloth produces a clear, hard pattern. If you wet it a little, you will get softer prints. If using oil paint, you need to soak a rag in white spirit and then wring it out thoroughly. Before use, crumple the fabric in your hand, then dip the rag into the paint and lightly squeeze it onto a sheet of paper to remove excess. Apply strokes from top to bottom or along the cornice with free movements, similar to working with a sponge. The rag must be shaken off and re-squeezed in your hand frequently to avoid a repeating pattern. As soon as the pattern becomes less clear, the rag needs to be replaced with a fresh one.
At the end of the work, be sure to correct insufficiently filled areas of the surface. In some cases, a second layer of color may be applied, but usually this is not required; as a rule, the expected effect is achieved the first time.
Depending on the type of painting work and the composition of the paint used for painting, you may need various brushes, rollers, spatulas, and rulers. Good quality brushes are made from clean bristles. They absorb a large amount of paint composition and hold it inside so that the paint does not flow off. Cheap, but less practical and durable are brushes made from bristles with the addition of about 50% hard horsehair.
The largest in size (a tuft of hair reaches a length of 180 mm, a diameter of 60-65 mm) are swing brushes that have a round cross-section and a long handle (1.8-2 m). They are sold ready-made (a tuft of hair is secured in a metal ring) or in the form of a tuft of hair that requires knitting. In any case, you need to check the length of the brush hair in order to tie it up if necessary. After bending the brush, the hairs should immediately straighten, taking their previous shape. Swing brushes are convenient for painting large surfaces, such as ceilings and walls.
Vitaly Lvova
Composition of technological operations
Construction standards establish three types of paints according to quality: simple, improved and high-quality and a list of technological operations that must be performed in order for the corresponding paint to meet the sanitary, technical or aesthetic requirements imposed on it.
The use of foreign-made paint and varnish materials, characterized by high technological and performance qualities, does not contradict the technology adopted by us regarding the given composition of operations in their technological sequence, but provides a real opportunity to significantly improve the quality of painting work and reduce the time it takes to complete it. To do this, it is necessary to study the composition of technological operations and select the necessary materials according to their purpose and properties, using the information contained in this reference book and the manufacturers’ instructions.
Table 1. Technological operations performed when preparing and painting indoor surfaces with oil, enamel and synthetic paints
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Color type |
||||||||
|
Technological operations |
improved and high high quality |
improved and high high quality |
improved and high high quality |
|||||
|
woodworking |
for plaster and concrete |
for metal |
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1. Cleaning | ||||||||
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2. Surface smoothing | ||||||||
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3. Cutting out knots and tars with filling of cracks | ||||||||
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4. Repairing cracks | ||||||||
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5. Primer (primer) | ||||||||
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6. Partial lubrication polishing the greased | ||||||||
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7. Primer of greased areas | ||||||||
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8. Solid putty | ||||||||
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9. Sanding | ||||||||
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10. Primer | ||||||||
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11. Fluting | ||||||||
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12. Sanding | ||||||||
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13. First coloring | ||||||||
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14. Fluting | ||||||||
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15. Sanding | ||||||||
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16. Second coloring | ||||||||
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17.Flying or trimming | ||||||||
Table 2. Technological operations performed during the preparation and painting of external surfaces
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Technological operations |
Paint compositions |
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|
silicate |
lime- high and cement |
emulsion synthetic |
perchlor-vinyl |
oil and enamel |
cement and viscous cement |
|
|
1. Cleaning | ||||||
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2. Joining | ||||||
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3. Grease | ||||||
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4. Sanding | ||||||
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5. Putty | ||||||
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6. Sanding | ||||||
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7. Wetting | ||||||
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8. Primer | ||||||
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9. First coloring | ||||||
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10. Second coloring | ||||||
Note: 1. When painting high-quality surfaces, add solid putty followed by sanding.
2. The “+” sign indicates processes whose execution is mandatory.
Surface preparation and treatment technology
1. Cleaning
Cleaning - removing dust, splashes and drips of solution from the surface with metal spatulas, scrapers, steel brushes, rags or mechanized methods. These operations also include drying individual damp places, removing grease stains, efflorescence, rust, and scale.
To remove oily stains, surfaces are washed with a 5% solution of trisodium phosphate (washing powder) or soda ash, diluting them in water at a temperature of 30-40 ° C. After 0.5-1 hour, the surface is neutralized with a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid.
If resinous substances appear on the plastered surface, the plaster is replaced completely.
Oil stains are removed with burnt magnesia paste mixed with gasoline, toluene or benzene.
Oil stains are removed with a paste consisting of two parts fluff lime and one part pumice powder (by weight).
Non-drying oil stains are removed using oily clay applied to the stain in a layer of 3-4 mm. After drying, the clay is cleaned off and the surface is washed.
Efflorescence is removed with metal brushes, the surface is washed with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid (5%), followed by rinsing with clean water and drying.
When repairing and restoring surfaces previously painted with chalk, adhesive, and casein compounds, they are first moistened with water and scraped off; The covering layer of plaster is ground again with lime mortar on fine sand and, after drying, primed with the composition recommended for new painting.
If the plaster is heavily damaged or dirty, it is advisable to replace it completely.
When repairing and restoring surfaces previously painted with oil, synthetic or enamel compounds, the remaining layers should be removed. If the old paint holds firmly, it is not scraped off, but cleaned with sandpaper. Contaminated surfaces are washed with warm soapy water, and in case of significant contamination - with solvents (turpentine, kerosene, white spirit, gasoline). Oil paint is removed and chemically using pastes that soften the old paint layer, which is then easily scraped off.
Paste composition:
Lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (20% solution);
Sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, asbestos dust - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (20% solution).
The softened layer is scraped off with scrapers or spatulas, then washed with a 2% solution of acetic acid, then with clean water, wiped with a rag and dried.
2. Smoothing the surface.
The end of a tree, a piece of flake stone (hard rock sand stone) or sand-lime brick is used to remove roughness and clear mortar splashes when preparing new plastered surfaces.
3. Cutting out knots and tars with filling of cracks.
Cutting is done using carpentry tools. The cracks are repaired with a metal spatula.
4. Joining (cutting) cracks.
The jointing is done with a knife or steel spatula to a depth of at least 2 mm for filling with putty. After smoothing and filling the cracks, the surface is thoroughly dust-free.
5. Primer (primer).
The cleaned and dust-free surface is primed to level and reduce its porosity, strengthen the surface layer of the base, improve adhesion to subsequent layers (putty, paint) and reduce the overall paint consumption. To perform these functions, the primer must penetrate deep into the pores of the substrate and therefore must be thinner and more flexible than the paint that will be used in subsequent paint layers. The primer composition is selected in accordance with the binder of the coloring composition; most often a diluted coloring composition is used. Typically, manufacturers producing paint compositions also recommend appropriate primers for them.
6. Partial lubrication with grinding of greased areas.
Embroidered and primed cracks, potholes, and irregularities are filled with putties, and more often with putties using metal or rubber spatulas.
First, fill the cracks with transverse movements of the spatula, then the applied layer is leveled with movements of the spatula along the cracks, achieving a flat and smooth surface.
After the putty has dried, it is sanded.
7. Priming the greased areas.
The sanded areas are dusted off and primed with the same primer that was used to prime the entire surface.
8. Solid putty.
It is produced with improved and high-quality painting of surfaces to level out roughness and unevenness on plastered, wooden, concrete and other surfaces. Apply with spatulas with metal, plastic or rubber blades. depending on the nature of the surface and the degree of preparation of the base.
If the unevenness cannot be eliminated with one continuous putty, continuous putty is repeated (after sanding).
9. Sanding solid putty.
It is carried out after the putty layer has completely dried and hardened using devices in which sanding paper is attached. Dust formed after sanding is removed by sweeping and using vacuum cleaners.
10. Priming the surface after solid putty.
The putty layer must be primed, since it, like the base, is quite porous.
11. Surface fluting.
Flatting of a surface primed with a brush is carried out immediately after applying the primer to a small area, until the primer is absorbed into the putty layer. It is done with a flat brush with long and soft hair (fleet brush) to remove marks from a hard handbrake or fly brush. Flatting is not performed when applying the primer using rollers or spray guns.
12. Sanding the entire primed surface after it has dried.
It is done with fine sandpaper to remove individual protruding irregularities from random inclusions caught in the primer, dust particles, etc. and creating some surface roughness for better adhesion to the subsequent paint layer.
13. First coloring.
It is carried out after completion of the entire complex of technological operations for preparing and treating the surface for painting.
14. Fluting (see paragraph 11).
15. Grinding (see point 12).
16. Second coloring.
Completes the application of preparatory and painting layers. If all previous operations were performed efficiently, then after the first painting the surface looks so good that there is no need for a second painting, which, however, is required by the standards.
17. Fluting or facing.
The performance of these operations is purely decorative. Trimming is done with a trimming brush, the hair of which is fixed in the handle not along its axis, like all other brushes, but perpendicularly. By striking such a brush with the ends of the hair on a completely painted surface, its uniform roughness is achieved and a silky matte effect is achieved. Fluting enhances the shine of oil-resin paints to a mirror finish. Fluting is only possible when using paints with a sufficiently long drying time, comparable to oil paints and the like. Flattening and trimming are not done when using quick-drying paints and paints that give a matte texture when dried.
Painting work is one of the types of finishing of a room. They include painting surfaces with paint.
Pre-painting work
In strictly following the technology of painting work, it is important to carry out preliminary preparation of surfaces. It consists of several types of activities:
- elimination of cracks and any complex defects using plaster, putty, gypsum or other materials;
- thorough alignment and smoothing of the resulting seams using special devices or hand tools;
- Before painting, wooden surfaces are thoroughly sanded and degreased;
- cleaning the surface from a layer of construction dust and priming with a liquid composition, which, when dry, will create a protective film and close all pores.
Old paint is removed from the newly painted surface. It is cleaned off with sandpaper or a special brush, or washed off with water if water-based paint was previously used.
Depending on the wishes of the owners of the room, the surface is covered with wallpaper specially designed for this purpose for painting or plastered with a thin layer of finishing plaster. After this, the walls or ceiling are primed once in order to save paint.
Painting tools and accessories
The main tools for painting are brushes and rollers.
set of tools for painting work Most professionals and amateurs paint ceilings and walls with a soft roller. Its use creates a number of advantages when performing repairs:
- allows you to save paint;
- the finishing material is applied in a uniform thin layer;
- Adjustable retractable handle facilitates painting top part walls and ceiling can be done while standing on the floor;
- painting is more convenient and faster.
When performing painting work with a roller, use a special plastic trough with a ribbed insert to remove excess paint. So that it can last a long time, it is inserted into a plastic bag, which is removed and thrown away at the end of the work, and the tray remains clean.
However, even when painting surfaces with a roller, it becomes necessary to use a brush. It is impossible to cover corners or complex base topography with the composition without it.
When preparing for repairs, be sure to purchase several items with bristles of different widths and thicknesses. Traditionally, horsehair is used to make brushes. Before purchasing a tool, carefully check the quality of the pile and the method of its attachment. The most convenient and practical brush is one with cone-shaped thick bristles, which can be easily and quickly restored if deformed.
brush for painting walls The size of the tool also matters. To carry out a large volume of work, choose large objects with a bristle width of 150 mm. Small brushes of 25 mm, 12 mm may be needed.
Before using the brush, soak it in warm water for several minutes. Poorly secured fibers will come out. The wooden handle will swell slightly and will hold the bristles more firmly. The pile itself will soften and become more elastic.
During the work process, the brush cannot be completely immersed in the paint; it is not recommended to add a lot of composition. Firstly, excess paint will flow onto your hands. Secondly, paint that gets into the attachment of the pile to the handle will ruin the tool, and it will quickly become unusable.
When performing a significant amount of work in large areas, a spray gun is used, which applies paint by spraying. It allows you to create an even, uniform layer of finish. However, it is only suitable for applying water-based paints.
To use the tools in the future, after painting, they are washed with water or solvents (white spirit), dried and placed in a storage place.
Materials for painting work
To perform painting work, various paints and varnishes are used. The main thing is paint. This is a composition made from binders with the addition of pigments.
Currently, surfaces are painted with acrylic, latex and other water-based paints. They adhere well to the surface, have excellent coverage, dry quickly and have almost no odor. They can be used at any time of the year. The painted base does not fade or fade. It is easy to care for and can be quickly restored if necessary.
The mechanism of action of the paint is to create a thin decorative film, which gives a certain color to the surface due to the presence of pigments in it. In addition, it protects walls and ceilings from mold and mildew.
Before applying paint, it is recommended to cover wooden surfaces with drying oil, which will prevent the base material from being absorbed and will strengthen the base. To paint wood, not only water-dispersion or water-based paints are used, but also enamels. However, they should be used only when absolutely necessary, as they have a strong smell and take a long time to dry.
Important nuances of painting
apply paint in several layers Surface painting is carried out in 1 or several stages. If the composition has low or medium coverage, it is necessary to apply it in 2-3 layers. Before starting the main work, you need to try on a small area how the coloring agent will apply.
Painting work is carried out in dry, warm weather with minimal humidity. It is not recommended to carry out painting work in rain and fog. Optimal temperature air temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees. IN summer time Windows are specially opened to allow air circulation.
To work with a brush, use containers of a smaller volume than the one in which the coloring composition is sold. The tool is lowered into the jar with ¼ bristles. Remove excess paint by brushing along the edge of the container. Some craftsmen stretch an elastic band over the edge of the jar to avoid staining the edges.
If the paint is liquid, it will certainly flow onto your hands. Therefore, you need to carry out the work with gloves or attach half of a children's rubber ball to the handle. If you don’t have a toy, you can use a piece from a plastic bottle. Just cut out a circle and insert the brush handle into it.
To ensure that the paint applies evenly and your hand does not get tired, the brush is held at a slight angle. They pass it from top to bottom and from bottom to top, covering the previous one with a new layer of material. First of all, paint the corners, protruding edges and hard to reach places, and then smooth surfaces.
Carrying out painting work
We paint the room by zone Depending on the tools used, the material and the nature of the surface, the technology for carrying out painting work is not significant, but varies.
Painting with a brush - This is a rather labor-intensive but interesting process and it is worth using it in small rooms and rooms with complex relief of walls and ceilings, for example, with stucco molding and various decorative inserts.
- Before you start painting, it is advisable to divide the space into zones: after finishing one, start applying the product to the other.
- To perform work at height, you must take care of a stable stand in advance and position it at the maximum convenient distance from the fragment being painted.
- When finishing ceilings, masking tape is attached around the perimeter of the wall, which will not allow the wall to be stained. Conversely, the tape is glued to the top surface if the wall is being painted.
- To carry out painting work with a brush, you can use a tool with a long handle, but it is not convenient for everyone.
- Having collected paint on the brush, move the tool along the surface with smooth, calm movements. They always start from the corners and joints between the ceiling and the wall. In this case, they are carried out in the same place several times in order to completely cover the base. It is important to ensure that there are no flaws left.
- Once the joints and protrusions are painted, you can begin applying the finish to the flat surface. When covering vertical surfaces, move the brush from top to bottom, bottom to top. The ceiling is usually painted starting from the window, along the longest wall.
Roller painting – the most convenient and economical way to apply paint to a surface. However, it is applicable only on flat, smooth planes. Difficult terrain is not accessible to this tool.
- For work, choose a medium-sized roller with a comfortable handle. It is important to know that there are removable holders of different lengths for ease of painting ceilings and walls above.
- Before work, you should practice and try moving the object along the surface in order to choose a comfortable rhythm and direction of work.
- Work with a roller begins after the corners, joints and protruding fragments have been painted with a brush.
- Paint is poured into a pre-prepared tray. It should be of medium consistency. If it is too thick, it must be diluted with water or a special product.
- The roller is lowered into the container, the coloring composition is collected and the tool is passed several times along the ribbed insert, removing excess product.
- Apply the roller to the wall and begin to move it from bottom to top, overlapping the layers. In this case, you need to lightly press down on the soft roller so that all the paint from it transfers to the plane.
- If gaps or unpainted areas are found, you should go over the same area with a roller again.
spray painting walls Spray painting has several advantages over previous methods of painting. It is good for covering any surfaces. Working with this method is quick and convenient. In this case, the finishing coating becomes absolutely even and smooth.
However, using a spray gun is not always acceptable, since it is necessary to cover objects and those parts of the space that cannot be painted. If the room is finished with water-based paints, then this fact is not important. This paint can be easily washed off.
Liquid compositions are used for the paint sprayer. They are poured into a special container, which is part of the apparatus. With the help of an electric drive, it starts to work.
A person moves a special handle close to the surface. At this time, the product flows through the hose to the spray net and is distributed over the wall or ceiling. Working with this device, you can regulate the output of the coloring composition.
While using the spray gun, monitor the liquid level in the container and add it if it runs out. The flask must not be completely emptied, otherwise air will enter the hose, which may result in an unregulated release of the coloring agent.
Decorative painting methods
Often complex painting works are carried out according to the bold ideas of designers. This can be the application of multi-layer coating using paints different colors, artificial aging surfaces or creating the effect of volume and relief. For this purpose, various available means are used: foam sponges, fabrics, brushes and more. Sometimes ornaments and interesting design images are drawn on a smooth surface using a stencil, which give the room individuality.
Sponge technology
paint the walls using a regular sponge An unobtrusive spotted pattern is applied with a regular foam sponge. This is usually done with dark paint on a white surface, or vice versa, a light shade is distributed on a dark base. To create an original shimmering shine, glossy paint is applied to a matte surface.
- When working with a sponge, use undiluted water-based paint. It is poured into a tray and stirred well.
- A base layer of white paint is applied to the wall or, conversely, dark color. After it has completely dried, they begin to apply a decorative layer with a sponge.
- The sponge is moistened with water to make it soft and the liquid is squeezed out.
- The tool at hand is dipped into the paint and passed along the ribbed insert, removing excess.
- Then, with a few jerky movements, run the sponge over a sheet of paper to dry it slightly.
- After this, the object with paint is applied to the wall, pressed and completely torn off, moving it to another place.
- A kind of wetting of the plane occurs, as a result of which an original pattern is obtained. It can completely cover the wall, or mark some fragment of it.
Applying a decorative coating with a sponge is not particularly difficult. You can apply paint as desired. Special rules does not exist in this creative process.
Dry brush technology
paint the room with a dry brush You can decorate a wall using line art, which is done dry paint brush or a stiff bristle brush. This method is suitable for applying a glazed composition, which includes varnish (70%), oil paint (20%) and white spirit (10%).
In this technique, the wall is covered with a basic tone, on top of which the prepared glaze is applied. Without waiting for it to dry, apply strokes with a dry brush with quick movements. When they harden, they form an interesting pattern reminiscent of blind rain. To make it easier to care for the surface coated in this way, a layer of matte polyurethane-based varnish is applied to it.
The quality of painting work depends on the professionalism of the craftsmen. They must know the technology of their implementation, know how to use paints and be able to apply them in different ways.
Subject: Fundamentals of painting technology.
Lesson objectives: Know basics of painting technology, types of finishing coatings and be able to perform this operation.
Develop ability to perform finishing operations techniques.
Educate careful handling of tools.
Tools: brushes, rollers;
During the classes:
1. Organizational moment (2 min).
Greeting students, checking for absent students in class, checking students' work uniforms.
2. Report the topic and objectives of the lesson (1 min).
The teacher announces the topic and purpose of the lesson, then students open their notebooks and write down the date and topic of the lesson.
3. Presentation educational material(12 min).
TO painting work refers to painting various surfaces. To perform these works, materials are used: pigments (dry construction paints), adhesives, drying oil, etc.
pigments, or dry construction paints, can be natural or artificial and are fine powders various colors: white, yellow, blue, red, etc.
To ensure that pigments adhere firmly to the surface being painted, they add binding materials. Glue is added to aqueous compositions, and to oil compositions - drying oil Natural drying oil is made by boiling linseed or hemp oil at a temperature of 275°C with the addition of some special substances. Drying oil can also be synthetic.
Oil paints They are prepared in factories like this: drying oil is mixed with dry pigments and the mixture is ground on special paint grinders. These paints are used for indoor and outdoor work, painting metal, wood, and plaster. The drying time for oil paints after painting the surface is usually 24 hours.
Enamels - These are paint compositions prepared by grinding a mixture of pigments and varnishes on paint grinders. At long-term storage enamel may thicken. They are diluted with various solvents. The drying time of the enamel applied to the surface to be painted is from 1 to 24 hours.
Lucky They are solutions of resins in various solvents, have different names and purposes, and come in light and colored ones. Dry in 24...48 hours.
Solvents used for dissolving and diluting various thickened paint compositions to working thickness, washing tools, etc.
Before painting surfaces, it is recommended to prime them - coat them with a liquid of a certain composition primer, adhering well to the surface and leaving a thin film on it, on which the painting composition is applied in an even layer. Unprimed surfaces absorb paint differently, so in some places there will be more paint, in others less, and the coloring will become uneven - spots or stripes. The best primer for oil paint is drying oil.
Various tools are used for painting work: brushes, rollers, spatulas, rulers.
Brushes made from bristles and horsehair. The fly brushes have a tuft length of up to 180 mm and a stick handle up to 2 m long. Whitewashing brushes have a width of up to 200 mm, a thickness of 45...65 mm with a hair length of 100 mm. Maklovitsy- these are flat brushes with a width of 25...100 mm, made of high-quality bristles or badger hair. They are used to smooth out freshly applied paint.
Paneled brushes are designed for drawing narrow horizontal stripes (panels) or for painting hard-to-reach places.
Trimmings are used for special treatment of freshly painted surfaces. The trimmer is applied evenly, smoothing out the unevenness of the paint applied with a brush.
To perform painting work, use brushes instead of brushes. rollers, more productive than brushes. Rollers are made from fur or foam rubber.
Painting surfaces begins with choosing an option for interior decoration of the room, similar to the options for wallpapering walls: in one or two colors, with a border, frieze or tapestry, etc.
Before painting, all surfaces must be repaired, dried and primed.
The cleanliness of the surface to be painted largely depends on the force of pressure on the brush. If you press the brush lightly, the paint falls in the form of narrow strokes or stripes. When you press hard on the brush, the paint drips off it. Each subsequent layer of paint should be applied only to the well-dried previous one.
The direction of the strokes when painting plays a significant role. If the wall is painted twice, then the first strokes are parallel to the floor, and when painting with the second layer - vertically from the ceiling to the floor (Fig. 101). When painting the ceiling, the strokes of the last layer are drawn parallel to the light rays falling from the window.
The junction of two colors different color It is not always smooth, so the joint is painted over with an even strip of paint of a different color - a panel. The panel is drawn (retracted) along a ruler or stencil.
To give surfaces painted with oil paints increased shine and extend the life of the paint, they are coated with varnish.
Used to apply various designs on walls. stencils. Stencils are made from thick paper. A design is applied to it and cut out sharp knife so that the patterns do not fall out, for which bridges (strips of paper) are left between them, connecting them to each other. A stencil is made for each color.
Stencil drawings are done by two people. One worker presses the stencil to the surface, and the other wets the handbrake in paint so that it is semi-dry, and applies gentle butt blows to the stencil, filling the space of the design in the stencil with paint. After printing, an exact copy of the stencil design remains on the surface.
When finishing with multi-color patterns, each color is filled with a separate brush and only after the previously filled pattern has dried.
At the end of the painting work, brushes and rollers are wrung out and washed in solvent. It is allowed to store a brush or roller in a container of paint for a short time.
Safety regulations
1. Paints and enamels should be stored in a special room away from heating appliances.
2. When painting surfaces, ventilate the room.
3. Do not touch your face or clothing with paint-contaminated hands.
4. Do not throw soaked paint indoors.
5. Do not put your face close to the paint container.
6. After finishing work, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.
Repetition:
1. What is painting work?
2. What safety measures should be observed when performing painting work?
3. What is drying oil? Where is it used?
4. What is the difference between enamel and varnish?
5. For what purpose is the surface primed before painting?
6. What tools are used for painting work?
7. What is flutz?
8. How are stencils made for applying a pattern to a surface?
Practical work(55 min).
Manufacturing a wing nut in accordance with the drawing.
Final briefing. (10 min.)
Cleaning workplaces. At the end of the lesson, the teacher notes characteristic mistakes and offers to demonstrate the correct techniques to those students who have mastered the process of making a metal product better than others. The teacher gives grades to the students.