The technology of lap siding was known to our ancestors many centuries ago. True, in those days it was called much simpler - sheathing external walls unedged or edged boards. Currently, lumber manufacturing technologies have significantly improved, special impregnations have appeared to protect wood from pests and putrefactive processes, varnishes and paints with unique properties are used for finishing external surfaces. operational properties. Performance characteristics and the appearance of the boards has improved significantly, which makes it possible to give the facades a new look.

How to install lap siding (in this case, fiber cement)

Docking vinyl siding overlap

If in our country, at best, ordinary edged boards were used to decorate the facade walls of buildings, then in America there was a slightly different approach. For lap siding, lumber with a special profile was used. What are the advantages of "American"?

"American" - wood siding

Important! Today in sale you can also find boards with a complex profile that allows you to imitate overlapping siding. At the same time, the appearance is completely preserved, and the quality of the cladding is significantly increased. We will talk about this technology a little below.

Traditional wood shiplap siding

The main feature of the technology is that each subsequent horizontal row of boards slightly overhangs the previous one. Today you can meet an “American woman” not only from natural wood, but also made of plastic and metal, but we will focus on traditional material.

Wood siding prices

Wood siding

Step 1. Preparatory work. Overlapping siding can be done on walls made of any building materials, from natural wood to aerated concrete slabs. There is no point in leveling surfaces to perfection; the boards are fixed to a special load-bearing sheathing. But it is highly recommended to do additional insulation of external walls. This will not only increase the comfort of living in the building, but will also greatly reduce financial losses during the heating season.

Important! It is better to use pressed mineral wool as insulation. As a last resort, you can use non-flammable foam. Just remember that existing legislation prohibits the use of any type of foam plastic for insulation of buildings that are more than one floor in height. Do not violate this requirement, do not expose the building and your life to additional risks.

The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the climatic zone of the location of the building, but in all cases it should be more than 10 cm. A smaller thickness of the insulation will save a small amount of money on the purchase of material, but the thermal protection will be so low that there is no need to talk about the overall effectiveness of the insulation. The insulation technology is common, there is no point in dwelling on it. The only thing worth mentioning is the quality of the sheathing. Vertical posts must be strictly perpendicular and must lie in the same plane. Check their position before starting work.

Step 2. Calculate the quantity and range of materials. Find out the area of ​​the walls minus windows and doorways. It is not recommended to overlap the basement part of the building; keep this in mind when purchasing boards. Additionally, lumber will be needed for finishing internal and external corners, slopes and trims of windows and doors, and lining the overhanging rafter system.

Practical advice! Always increase the amount of materials by 5-8%, any construction works cannot do without waste. It is better to have a small supply than to stop work due to a shortage of boards.

For fixing, it is better to use ordinary nails; it is much cheaper and faster than fastening with self-tapping screws. At the same time, the reliability of fixation is no different. The length of the nails depends on the thickness of the lumber, but one rule always applies - two-thirds of the length of the nails should be included in the load-bearing elements. For example, if the thickness of the board is 25 mm, then the length of the nail must be at least 70 mm.

After cutting the boards, the ends must be impregnated with mastics; purchase them as well. Even if the boards are factory-impregnated, the cut ends should still be finished.

Prices for wood preservatives

Impregnation for wood

Step 3. Prepare your tools. For sheathing, you will need a handheld portable electric saw, a builder's level, a water or laser level, a tape measure and a pencil. If you have a small stationary saw, great, the work will go much faster. You can, of course, use ordinary hacksaws, but they are difficult to work with, and the cut is not very even, especially for beginners.

Step 4. Check the condition of the sheathing, correct if necessary problem areas. There are two ways to fix uprights.

1. Using a nail puller, tear the slats slightly from the wall and place them in in the right places wooden wedges and nail again.
2. Fix thin slats on top of the old ones, changing their thickness to level the position.

Both methods are equivalent specific choice depends on the magnitude of the deviations. If the deviations are significant, then it is better to use the second method. The maximum difference in the position of the slats should not exceed 0.5 cm per linear meter, otherwise the bending of the outer skin will be noticeable. If you missed this point, then correct the error already during the covering. In places where the sheathing bends, nail the boards loosely. As soon as you see that they begin to bend, stop. If you didn’t have time to react in time, it’s okay. Pull the nail out a little and straighten the board.

Step 5. Covering corners. Prepare the boards and use a saw to cut them to width and length. Remove the edges at an angle of 45°. Connect two boards at a 45° angle and fasten with self-tapping screws. Fix securely; the boards may warp during use. Recess the heads of the screws and seal the holes with wood putty. Sand the joint area sandpaper. To improve the quality of sanding, it is better to fix the sandpaper with a stapler to a flat square or rectangular block. Be sure to soak the cut ends of the boards with any antiseptic or special primer.

Practical advice! Finishing the corners can be done using a different method - first sheathe the walls, and attach the ends of the siding boards end to end. After finishing the sheathing, nail it in the corners. smooth boards and close the ends. This method simplifies the installation process - there is no need to accurately adjust each board to length. But it also has a drawback - snow blows into the cracks in winter. It is necessary to take measures to seal large gaps, otherwise the insulation may get wet. Wet glass wool – a big problem for all wooden structures. In addition, the efficiency of insulation is significantly reduced.

Step 6. Secure the formed corners under the dividing board. A dividing board separates the lower part of the foundation from the main one. We have already mentioned that it is better to sheathe this area with waterproof materials, but the use of wooden siding is also allowed. Fix the corners with nails, make sure that the boards do not crack.

Professional advice! Never drive nails into boards at right angles; this position increases the likelihood of cracking. The nail should enter the wood at an angle of approximately 30°; due to this position, it simultaneously penetrates several layers of wood, and this prevents cracking.

During fixation, constantly check the vertical position of the corners, do not allow even the slightest deviation. If this condition is not met, then each siding board will have to be adjusted to length, and an oblique cut will also have to be made. Even for experienced builders It is not easy to avoid gaps at the joints when making oblique cuts.

Step 7 Set the starting bottom bar. For these purposes, an ordinary edged board and is placed in a horizontal position. If you don't have an expensive laser level, then use water. It is much cheaper, and the accuracy is no lower than that of a laser.

Step 8 Install gutters around the bottom boards. They can be purchased metal or homemade wooden. The drain drains rainwater from the lower encircling board. Another purpose is to level the first row of siding.

Step 9 Take measurements between the drain and the top point of the wall, calculate the number of rows of siding, taking into account the width of the boards and the amount of overlap. The overlap is done within 2-3 cm. Mark the position of the boards; for this it is better to use a template. It is made very simply.

1. On one side of the straight slats, apply marks corresponding to the width of the boards. Do this very accurately, errors are completely eliminated. Indicate in any way that this is the front side of the template.
2. On the other side of the template, make marks along the width of the boards, but offset by the amount of overlap of the lower edges. We have already mentioned that the overlap is done within 2-3 cm.

Step 10 Place the template against the corner and transfer the marks from the front side of the template, then turn it over and transfer the marks from the back. At each corner you should have two rows of marks, one indicating the top edge position of the first board and the second indicating the bottom position of the next covering board. Repeat the same operation on all corners of the building.

Step 11 Proceed to fixing the siding boards. Place the first one along the lower marks and secure it with nails. Then the next one on top of it, pay attention to the two marks taking into account the height of the overlap.

The first board is fixed (here it is already used, since a small working template is being sheathed)

Practical advice! If the boards are long, you should call an assistant. If this is not possible, use various stops to fix the selected position of the board.

American overlapping cladding

According to the specified algorithm, continue sheathing the wall to the very top. Next you need to finish the soffit.

Step 1. Select the material that will be used for the cladding. When covering a house with natural boards, we do not recommend using various plastics. The soffit can be finished with an ordinary edged board or covered with overlapping wall siding. Make your own decision based on your own needs.

Prices for different types of spotlights

Roof soffits

Step 2. Start covering the soffits with markings; the lines can be marked with a rope and blue or make marks with a pencil along the rafters. Boards will be nailed along the lines.

Step 3. Nail the first board; its position must be checked several times. If there is a non-parallelism between the line of the rafters and the wall, then an individual decision should be made in each specific case. If there is a slight parallelism within 2-3 cm, it can be eliminated by gradually moving the boards. A non-parallelism of 2-3 mm is completely unnoticeable; multiply this value by the number of rows of siding and find out whether this method can be used. If there are large discrepancies, you will have to trim the first and last boards with a wedge. Unfortunately, such an operation will not go unnoticed.

Step 4. Cover the joints between the soffit and the wall sheathing with decorative strips. Don't forget to leave some air for natural ventilation. The end facade walls do not have a roof overhang; they should be treated differently. As the sheathing proceeds, the boards are trimmed to size using a wedge, and the joints are subsequently closed with decorative end strips. If you wish, you can additionally nail wide boards to the slats, which will help hide the unevenness of the cuts.

On a note! We have given a description of the universal overlap siding technology, but everyone can change it a little. Use various finishing elements for corners, joints, etc. The combination gives an original look wooden planks with plastic decorative elements.

Very beautiful and reliable casing. In appearance it is impossible to distinguish it from the traditional method described above, but in all its indicators it is much superior to it. The effect is achieved due to unique profile boards They also have a wedge-shaped geometry, but the side edges are locking. Due to this structure, the front plane is located at an angle to the wall, and the back plane is parallel to it. To improve ventilation, special grooves can be made on the reverse side.

The process of finishing walls with such siding is almost no different from ordinary clapboard cladding, but as a result, the owners get completely new design facade walls.

Questions and answers

Let's look at frequently asked questions regarding shiplap siding.

How big should the overlap be?

One of the advantages of this method of wall finishing is that each master chooses the amount of overlap individually. Due to this, you can accurately adjust the position of the rows according to the height of the window openings; there is no need to cut them in width. Any trimming worsens the appearance of wall surfaces. But the amount of overlap must be selected not only according to this parameter - much depends on the method of fixing the boards. If you want to make the carnations invisible, then two conditions must be met.

1. The nail heads of the previous row should be covered by the next board.
2. The fastening should keep the lumber from warping.

Based on such requirements, practice shows that the boards should overlap by about a third of the width; one nail holds two at once. But an increase in overlap automatically leads to an increase in material consumption, and accordingly, the cost of work increases.

On a note! There is one more important point. If you have an “American” one, then increasing the overlap does not affect the angle; if the board is flat, then the greater the overlap, the farther the second end goes from the wall.

How to attach nails - in a row or in a checkerboard pattern?

A very difficult question with no clear answer. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. But practitioners still advise driving nails across the entire width of the boards in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, one row of hardware will be noticeable, but the likelihood of warping is almost completely eliminated. For the visible row, studs made of stainless alloys are used, and for the closed row, ordinary ones can be used.

Is it possible to close internal and external corners without gaps?

It is possible, but not always advisable. Why?

1. It is very difficult. Each board should be placed against the end of the lamellas and their locations should be accurately recorded; the pattern will be in the form of a herringbone. Subsequently, excess material is carefully removed, the position is checked and final adjustment is carried out. The cut areas must be sanded and impregnated with antiseptics at least twice. The same manipulations should be done with the second board. As practice shows, the time to finish one corner increases several times.
2. The gaps between the decorative corners and horizontal boards serve as additional ventilation holes. For all lumber, optimal relative humidity levels are very important - wet structures are quickly damaged by various diseases and rot.

Which corner finishing is better - close to the boards or corner boards covering the slats?

We prefer the second option for several reasons.

1. Work becomes much easier. Deviations in length of a few centimeters do not create problems during finishing decorative finishing. The boards can be cut not individually, but in batches, which greatly speeds up the sheathing process. In addition, there is no need to carry the board to the machine several times for accurate measurements and final adjustments.
2. The ends of the boards are well blown with air - the risk of rot is reduced, the elements do not need to be treated with antiseptics.

How to replace a damaged board?

For example, let's look at the most difficult option - the boards are fixed with two rows of nails. To do the job, you need a nail puller that has a flat blade on one side.

1. Insert the flat end of the nail puller into the gap between the intact and damaged boards; the tool should be located as close to the nail as possible.
2. Gently press down on the tool until the head protrudes a few millimeters above the surface of the board. Take out the nail puller and tap the board near the nail with a hammer, this will make it easier for the head to come out.
3. Grab the head with the opposite curved side of the nail puller and pull it out. These manipulations must be done on the damaged boards covering it. To avoid damaging the surfaces, be sure to place wooden spacers between the nail puller and the sheathing boards.

Visible nails are pulled out in this way. As for the invisible ones, you will have to bite them with wire cutters. Lift the whole board until you have enough wide gap, which will allow the cutters to get close to the nail. Depending on the circumstances, it may be necessary to undermine two or more entire boards - this will make it possible to increase the gap without the risk of cracking entire lamellas.

Video - Overlapping wood siding

Protection log walls outside from the destruction of the rain, sun rays, made by wind and frost different ways. The most environmentally friendly is cladding the facade of the house with wood. The overlapping arrangement of the boards creates a barrier to air flow. Water flows down the protruding surface without getting inside the sheathing and wall. Board finishing is expensive. Its advantages are the naturalness of the material, comfortable environment inside the house, and the unique beauty of natural materials.

Sheathing a house to protect a load-bearing wall

Sheet clapboard house

It was necessary to sheathe wooden cottage. It was Vadik’s turn to help me. We worked with him based on his questions and my stories. My friend is not just a scientist, but a curious mathematician who wants to learn how to do everything with his own hands. We were cooking wooden house from the outside to the trim, and I told where the sheathing of the walls with overlapping boards came from.

When exploring new lands, first America, then Australia, ships often crashed on reefs near unfamiliar shores. The settlers used wooden cladding on the sides to decorate the outside and inside of their houses. They used selections at opposite corners of the board and laid them in a herringbone pattern. The edge protruded outward above the bottom bar. The water did not flow down the wall all the way to the base, but dripped down from each board. Inside, the sheathing and wall remained dry.

Depending on the climate of the area inhabited by the settlers, cladding the outside of the walls with overlapping ship planks protected the housing from various natural factors:

• strong wind;
• scorching sun;
• frost;
• rain;
• heat.

Over time, finishing with boards and timber became popular. People appreciated not only the practicality, but also the beauty of the wooden facade. It is easier and cheaper to replace the most expensive exterior cladding than to restore the walls.

Types of wood used for shiplap

We cover the walls of the house ourselves

While we were cleaning the surface of the walls from dirt, I told a friend what types of wood are best suited for exterior cladding.

1. In terms of its characteristics, larch finishing is the leader. Wood is resistant to moisture. The degree of warping is lower than other rocks. Easy to handle and holds nails.
2. Spruce is naturally impregnated with resin and has characteristics slightly lower than larch. Numerous knots give a unique decorative look. Over time, cracks appear around them. Therefore, decorating the outside of a house with spruce boards is rare.
3. Pine warps greatly and quickly becomes unusable. Not used for exterior cladding.
4. Hardwood looks beautiful and is durable. It is difficult to process. It may break when hammering nails. The disadvantages include high price material.

Decorating the outside of a house can be done with boards with varying degrees of processing:

• both sex croaker represents the cut edge of a log with an oval surface;
• the removed top and raw edges of the plank floor;
• unedged board has rounded raw ends on one side;
• on an edged one with a veneer, the corner and part of the end remain unprocessed;
• the clean-edged board is fully processed and has the same dimensions along its entire length;
• tongue and groove with grooves of various shapes cut along the entire length.

Finishing with lapped boards is done with all types of the listed materials. Untreated ones are laid with oval surfaces outward and overlapped with the top ones. Only processed planks are joined end-to-end along the length. The rest have an overlap of 150 mm.

To give walls decorative look in ethnic and retro style, veneer can be applied over the board. Then the house looks old and fragile. Over time, thin strips of wood become deformed and fluff up like frills.

Facade preparation and waterproofing

Finishing with lapped boards

We spent several days preparing the house. Finishing the outside with boards requires protecting the walls from dampness. The logs were impregnated with a fire retardant, an antistatic agent and three layers of water repellent. Apply with brushes and rub in well. All this slightly worsens the vapor permeability of wood. But it protects the walls from fungus and makes them more resistant to moisture and even fire.

I also checked the waterproofing of the basement at the same time. Along the foundation stone, moisture from the soil rises to the walls and higher. The sheets of roofing felt lay intact, protruding several millimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The blind area around the house was made after the finishing of the walls and basement was completed.

House cladding with insulation

Sheathing a house with lapped boards with lapped boards

The sheathing can be attached directly to the logs with nails 80 - 100 mm long. For insulation, a sheathing is made from wooden beam. Insulation is laid between the vertical posts and covered with waterproofing. A board trim is mounted to the beam protruding above the mineral wool.

A film is selected for waterproofing. Then holes are made in it near the racks for ventilation. You can use a special fabric that allows air to pass through and repels water.

Facade finishing in our design

We cover with overlapping boards with our own hands

The walls of the house were quite warm. Finishing with overlapping boards created additional thermal insulation. Therefore, Vadik and I, after treating the walls outside with all protective compounds, wait until they are completely dry. Then we did the following work.

1. Marking of vertical lines along the entire perimeter;
2. Wooden planks were screwed onto them with self-tapping screws.
3. They nailed the ebb along the top of the base.
4. Above it they placed a beam with sides equal to the thickness of the sheathing board. This will ensure a uniform slope of the sheathing strips.
5. Nails were driven into the boards at the bottom and top with vertical racks. 2 cm were removed from the side end.

We started from the bottom row and from the corner began to move to the right and up. Having completed the sheathing, we installed additional protective elements in the corners of the house. The casing was installed on the window and door openings during the construction of the walls. All we have to do is adjust the size of the board so that its end fits snugly against the frame.

Having completed the finishing, we walked around the entire perimeter of the house and sealed all the cracks and joints with sealant. I chose the color of wood in the store.

We took up our brushes again. We coated the overlapping boards on the wall with antiseptic. Then, for decorative purposes, use a glaze compound. It gave the wood a golden chocolate hue and highlighted the natural grain of the wood.

Overlapping boards can be painted, varnished, or waxed. This gives the finish a unique look. It all depends on your taste and the board used for covering.

Lap siding

Do-it-yourself home decoration

A quick and budget-friendly way to imitate overlapping planks and install plastic and metal siding to look like wood. You can make a sheathing from a metal profile and attach acrylic or vinyl panels to it. It is possible to distinguish a “fake” only at close range.

Ventilated facades last up to 20 years. Virtually no maintenance required. But this is not wood with its warmth and uniqueness.

For cladding the façade of private houses, enough a large number of various materials. Even the most simple materials at the right approach are able to decorate the façade of any structure.

Boards can be used as house cladding, but during installation they must be coated with sealant at the joints.

One of these materials is an unedged board, which has unsawn edges. Such elements can give the facade of the structure excellent properties, creating unique design. Today, cladding not only with unedged boards, but also with other types of boards is popular.

How to trim a house with unedged boards?

Elements that will be needed for covering a private house:

Lumber: a – double-edged timber; b – three-edged beam; c – four-edged beam; g – unedged board; d – clean-edged board; e – edged board with blunt wane; g – edged board with sharp wane; h – block; and – both sexes croaker; k – both floor planks; l – unedged sleeper; m – edged sleeper; 1 – face; 2 – edge; 3 – rib; 4 – end.

1. Beam.
2. Unedged board 30 cm wide of northern tree species.
3. Mastic.
4. Silicone sealant.
5. Deep penetration primer composition.
6. Nails.
7. Brush.
8. Putty knife.
9. Mineral wool.
10. Building level.
11. Dye.

At external cladding The structure uses timber, which is nailed on top of unedged boards in increments of approximately 1.5 m. The beams should also be used at the corners of the building. The fit of the boards to each other does not have to be done perfectly, because existing cracks can be subsequently sealed with mastic or silicone sealant.

In most cases, unedged boards have a thickness of 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm, but you can also find thicker ones - 30-75 mm. Today on the building materials market there is a fairly large number of different boards for sale, since finishing the facade with wood is done quite often.

The facade of a private house made of unedged boards will create a unique play of light and shade, which can be achieved thanks to horizontal cladding with boards. In most cases, an unedged board 30 cm wide is used to decorate the facade of a private house.

It is best to choose northern tree species for this work, which have a beautiful texture and suitable density. Such trees include species such as Siberian larch or selected butt wood, which does not have any defects.

Choosing the appropriate method for installing such boards

During sheathing, unedged boards can be installed using the “overlapping” method or placed close to each other. The quality of such cladding will not be inferior to siding. The second option is more difficult to complete, but it looks better.

In addition to aesthetic qualities, it is necessary to take into account the practicality of all methods of cladding a house. The “overlapping” method is more suitable for finishing facade elements from a practicality point of view. This method The sheathing is resistant to moisture, but you need to remember that the installation of unedged boards in this case will need to be done on top of the waterproofing layer, while the ends of the elements are joined with a miter cut. At the end, all existing joints will need to be treated with silicone sealant.

If necessary, the board can be coated with a primer and installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

They will need to be nailed with the front side above the previous board. Nails are used as fastening elements, which are driven into the lower part. This method allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure if the humidity level fluctuates.

Technology of cladding boards for façade elements of a private house

Unedged boards have uneven edges, which can complicate the process of joining all the elements. However, this technology makes it easier this process, therefore it is recommended to use it.

The technology is as follows:

Before installation, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from moisture and various pests.

1. The boards are coated with a primer or special coating for protection. For these works, deep penetration primers are suitable, which are used to prepare mineral coatings before plastering and painting works. Primers penetrate deeply into the boards and act as a binding element. As a result, it will be possible to increase the wear resistance of the base, reduce the environmental impact on wood covering, increase the adhesion of adhesive mixtures and paints.
2. Waterproofing is installed on the walls. In this case, it is best to use coating-type waterproofing. It is important not only to protect the walls, but also to waterproof the blind areas of a private house. The mastic should be applied to the walls using a brush. If there are gaps left, you will need to pour the solution into them, and then remove the excess with a spatula.
3. After this, the waterproofing layer must dry so that the base is not sticky when touched. It is recommended to apply 3 layers of waterproofing to avoid moisture penetration and the formation of fungus and mold in the building. If a similar problem does arise, you will need to purchase special Construction Materials to combat mold.
4. Next, the insulation is installed. Most often used for insulation of façade elements. mineral wool. It does not ignite, does not absorb moisture, and is not afraid of frost.
5. The boards are secured over the waterproofing using nails. To do this, you need to vertically fill the boards along the wall, and then fasten them to them. horizontal elements, in the direction from bottom to top. The next layer is installed on the previous one with an overlap of 20 mm.
6. Sealant is applied to the joints of the boards. In this case, it is best to use polyurethane compounds. They have high elasticity and are able to withstand stretching and damage.
7. Next, the finishing coat is applied. In most cases, varnish is used for this coating, which is applied with a brush.

How is a house covered with other types of boards?

This option for finishing the façade of a building is not the most economical. You should know that only specialists can carry out high-quality cladding of a house with boards.

The cladding of the front part of the house can be done in the form of lining using smooth or rough boards. The elements are laid overlapping. This can be done by using special boards that have tongue-and-groove or quarter joints. This type of cladding is used when finishing works on walls made of bricks or blocks.

This type of cladding combines decorative and heat-insulating functions. Last option used in the case of insulation using the “dry” method.

Cladding the facade of a private house with boards: technology

Wood is a material of organic origin, as a result of which it rots during humid environment. Therefore, the cladding of the façade with boards will need to be done with ventilation on the reverse side. In order to create such ventilation, it is necessary to install a wooden sheathing on the wall.

When installing ventilated facades, a windproof film is used, which is laid as insulation or directly on the base of the wall.

In this way, it will be possible to prevent the weathering of fibrous insulation materials and provide additional heat resistance to the wall. Such a film will block water, but will not prevent steam from escaping from the building.

The gap for ventilation between the wall and wood paneling should be 4-5 cm. A flow of rising air will form in it, which is capable of removing moisture.

In the lower part of the facade, you will need to provide gaps for free access of air, as well as its subsequent exit under the roof. The holes at the bottom can be covered with a metal mesh to protect against rodents.

The sheathing is made of wooden planks with a square or rectangular cross-section.

To reduce water absorption, they need to be impregnated with an antiseptic and special compounds- impregnates.

If the cladding is carried out without the use of insulation, then the frame strips must be filled vertically, observing a step of 50-60 cm. If the board is installed vertically, then a double frame must be made.

This can be done by installing horizontal strips on top of the vertical ones. If the wall is uneven, then it must be leveled using pads made of impregnated plywood.

How to strengthen a facade made of boards with your own hands?

The tree will be exposed to environmental influences, so it will need to be protected. The wooden facade will need to be varnished, painted or treated with decorative impregnates. Before applying a protective coating, the wood will need to be coated with a fire retardant compound.

The only exception may be the case when the facade is painted with special fire-resistant paint. This composition will prevent the boards from igniting even in the event of prolonged contact with fire. Ventilated wooden facades will definitely need to be treated in a similar way.

Covering the facade of a private house with wood has a large number of advantages. But there is also a drawback, which is that the boards require updating the protective surface every few years. If tree species are used for cladding roads (for example, cedar or teak), then you don’t have to think about the problem with subsequent painting. In addition, these types of wood will practically not be subject to deformation over a long period of time. Today on the market you can find a fairly large number of boards for sale that have already been processed and painted.

Vertical wall cladding with unedged boards looks more beautiful in interior spaces. For external coverings, horizontal cladding is most often used. unedged board, which has original look when fastening with an overlap. Combined cladding can decorate a building inside and out - all you need is diligence and imagination.

The finishing of facade elements with wood using boards of various sections is carried out by carpenters and joiners. To sheathe yourself a private house, you need to have relevant work experience and some set of electrical tools.

All photos from the article

How is a house finished with lapped boards? Is it possible to combine this method of finishing the facade with its insulation? What types of wood are best to use? How to waterproof a facade, and what impregnations should be used to protect wood? In our article we will try to find answers to these and some other questions.

Waterproofing

On facades made of brick, aerated concrete or rubble coating waterproofing. Wooden walls covered with rolled material along the sheathing with an overlap of 10 centimeters. Left under waterproofing ventilation gap, ensuring vapor permeability of the walls.

A special case

If a roof made of overlapping planks is installed, its structure will be noticeably different from that accepted for more modern roofing materials.

The traditional installation scheme is as follows:

1. The basis of the roof is on the rafters, and the longitudinal logs laid on the gables of the house are laid down;
2. At the base of the slope, a so-called stream is hung on hooks - a log hollowed out inside that serves as a drain;
3. The board is laid along the slopes in two layers. In this case, the lower edge of both layers of the board rests against the flow, and the upper edge is pressed down by a log - a log.

The photo shows a house with a plank roof.

With the use of modern waterproofing materials, this scheme can be significantly simplified:

1. A sheathing of boards or timber is placed on the bed;
2. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the sheathing, extending to the edge of the gutter;
3. A counter-lattice made of thin lath is placed on top of the waterproofing;
4. The board is laid parallel to the planks with an overlap that prevents water from flowing in.

The main problem with a plank roof will be the deformation of the boards due to constant fluctuations in humidity.

To prevent deformation, protective impregnations - water repellents - are used. Among the most famous impregnations, it is worth mentioning Aquatex - Extra and... ordinary drying oil. It is applied to the surface of the board heated in a water bath, in two layers without intermediate drying.

An important point: impregnation will have to be repeated every two to three years.
In terms of practicality, the board is not best material for the roof.

Sheathing

How to cover a house with overlapping boards with your own hands?

• Sheathing starts from the bottom;
• Several spacers are placed under the bottom of the first board.— scraps of wood that allow you to fix it at the desired angle to the wall;
• The following boards are attached with an overlap of 5 centimeters. The fasteners (nails or screws) are hidden.

Joints and gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant. Weather-resistant paint or decorative protective impregnations can be used as the final coating.

Conclusion

Quite often I receive letters from you, my friends, in which you ask a lot of questions, ask for help and advice. Sometimes I ask myself - what's wrong with the blog? Why don't they ask me questions directly in the topics?

Are you shy? Or inconvenient? Or... or is there something really wrong - but I don’t know about it and don’t have a clue?
Friends, are you comfortable here? cosy? Is everything clear?... otherwise I’m seriously worried...

The blog is almost 4 years old (there will be a celebration in a month), and it’s like my second home... I come here, make myself comfortable in my big leather chair, put on a cup of tea or coffee... something delicious and start writing.
And I really want you to feel comfortable and cozy here too. And despite everything, I love reading your letters.

So why am I doing all this... Besides the fact that I was asked to tell you about how we sheathed our DREAM HOUSE in Kulemino.

You can read about all our stories about building a dacha with your own hands on the shore of a Karelian lake by tag: - You are welcome to visit us.

And today I will tell you everything about the cladding...
I want to say right away that I don’t have detailed photographs of the process - I had no time to take them.. But I tried to draw clear illustrations :))
BUT! If you have any questions, I’m here! :)))

So, let's go...
As I already said, we ended the 2014 season with covering one large wall in the new living room.

By that time we had already left for Moscow and my dad covered this wall himself. In general, I can say – HERO. Since 4 meters of wall in one hand... Two people are fine, but one...
But he did it and even treated it with an antiseptic before winter - which I was incredibly happy about.

The 2015 season is a lot of work to complete the construction of a new room - and of course, we also finished it off beautifully on all three sides...

The 2016 season was under the motto: LOOK THE WHOLE HOUSE BEAUTIFULLY!
No sooner said than done…

How did this idea even come to my mind? I don’t know for sure... But I clearly knew that I wanted to see a picture like this :))) from my selection on Pinterest.

And then I often saw this way of cladding houses in our villages... I really liked it.
This is not only beautiful - since you can’t imagine how beautiful the play of light and shadow on the edges of the board is, but also practical - if you just upholster the board “evenly”, then there is a risk that there will still be gaps... and they will have to be covered with strips... And this method will practically protect us from the story with the stripes - that’s why he was chosen.

My dad, as usual, with his skeptical attitude, said that we should do it as simply as possible - but I’m stubborn and insisted on my way... Yes, it took more boards... (one wall of our house is about 27 boards), but it was worth it!

And it turned out just great... And in chocolate color it fit beautifully into the history of the forest.

So.. how did this all happen?

If you remember, our new room is “conditionally frame”. That's why we have WINDPROOF on the outside... the entire frame is sheathed with it. According to the rules, there must be some distance between the final cladding layer of the house and the wind protection (the manufacturer recommends 5 cm) for the normal functioning of the entire frame system - this is of course understandable...

In this regard, the work of covering the house with herringbone boards consisted of the following:

STEP No. 1 – make guides from bars and install them on the frame of the entire house in increments of no more than 1 meter.

STEP No. 2 – select the boards that are prepared for this work, sand them well and preferably treat them with an antiseptic.

STEP No. 3 – carefully complete all the work on sewing up the house.


Required tools and materials:

• Chainsaw
• Jigsaw and wood files
• Preferably a wood sawing machine
• Sanding machine and a lot of sandpaper
• Tape measures, iron corner and level!
• Hammers
• Nails
• screwdriver and wood screws
• Antiseptic, brushes, rollers.

And a lot more free space to work, to your workplace it was as convenient as possible!

Go…

Step one - bars or lathing.

We did not buy ready-made bars because it was both inconvenient and expensive for us. We have a machine, so we simply sawed the bars from the boards that remained from the floor with a cross-section of 4 cm.

On wooden walls, the bars were simply screwed with large self-tapping screws; on stone walls the story was more complicated - there they needed special dowels and dowel-nails for everything to hold well.

The guides were attached in increments of approximately 1 meter, no more. Somewhere it turned out to be 60 cm, and 80...
This is also an important point - if the wall is long without windows, there is a temptation to make the sheathing steps huge - for example, you can save nails - but then there is a risk that the board will bend... And everything will go to waste - think a hundred times!

STEP #2 – board:


We had the following board for upholstery: edged board 125*20*6000.

From my point of view, this is the most convenient size both in terms of thickness and width... well, I won’t talk about the length. On the one hand, the longer the better - but it’s also more difficult to work :)

We carefully processed each board grinder. EVERYONE! And especially the ends. I didn’t sand the end that went “inside” under the board perfectly, but simply processed it a little.

In my opinion, each board on all sides should also be treated with an antiseptic - I’m lazy, I didn’t do it with inside processing.
But you can’t do that :)))!

Here I will make a small clarification from experience: you cannot sand the entire board at once - this is completely inconvenient to do for the entire house as a whole. Divide the work into sections.

How we did it:
For example, we decided to make wall A. There are two windows (see picture). The sheathing is in place and everything can be measured well.
We measure all areas (under the windows, above the windows, between them) and cut the board into the required lengths. Then I sand and we nail them right away... Everything is fast.

Why cut the board? Believe me, grinding 120 cm or 6 meters are two big differences. For long boards, I made a whole device from clamps and work tables.


Why you need to sand: because... because, firstly, everything will be perfectly smooth and beautiful, and secondly, a sanded board will consume much less paint (impregnation, glaze, etc.). And this is a significant saving of money too. So you are faced with a choice: buy a polished board or go this route yourself. We had no choice - we had to polish it ourselves.

The hardest job in this story is sanding. Because it's boring... and monotonous. Then my hands hurt very much from working with the machine.
But I did it. And the men helped a lot. Sometimes my dad and I worked with both hands, I polished the board, and he polished its ends - it was very convenient to collaborate in such a team :)

Now let's move on to the process of creating the “HER-BAR”.

The most important thing there is to install the first board perfectly level. It is installed absolutely straight, driven into each guide with 2 nails. And the most important thing is to make sure that its level is perfectly even.

A lyrical digression: when we talk about the evenness of the board, we must understand that it almost does not exist in nature... That is. It’s very rare when they bring you a stack of 5-6 cubes of ideal, even, even boards. And you can provide storage on such high level, that it will not lead, it will not gain moisture, will not begin to rot, etc...
You will have to face all these difficulties - be prepared for pleasant and not so pleasant surprises.
If you buy a board in large quantities at once, organize the storage space, stack the stack correctly with cross slats, do not stack the boards close to each other, and try to protect them from rain.

How to install the first board exactly? We worked together and did this: we figured out the “beginning” of our wall in a herringbone pattern.

The husband nailed his edge onto 1 nail (50 and 70 ka nails were used).
Then he went to the center of the board and set a level, while I adjusted my edge according to his instructions. Then, when the level showed “OK,” my husband moved a considerable distance away from the house and looked at the visual evenness, since our long board was not very ideal.
If everything is “OK,” then I hammered in my edge and we finished nailing the board along all the guides.

We take the second board and begin to form that very Christmas tree by placing one board on top of another.

The “overlap” was literally 1-1.5 cm. No more! The sewing process was the same as with the first board - hammered in the first nail, checked the level, it was necessary - checked visually and went to nail everything else...

We tried to ensure that the board fit very tightly to the previous board and that we had practically no gaps between them.

Difficulty sometimes arose if the board had a “hump,” then we straightened it right on the spot so that the force of the nail would help us put everything in its place.

If everything goes smoothly, the board is level, and there were no mistakes from the very beginning, then it works very quickly. It took us two to three hours to cover one wall.

This is how, step by step, we covered the entire house over two seasons (one gable remained - but that’s another story).

Make sure you have nails good quality:)) and not like this:

Now about the paint.

After we sheathed the house, I covered it with a special glaze from OLYMP:

OLIMP Omicron-Maximum – Wood-protective glaze thixotropic composition with a UV filter.

Why OLYMPUS? Everything is simple - budget-friendly and proven by repeated use at other sites.

I first became acquainted with Olympic impregnations when I was making a balcony in my apartment in Moscow. There we have a bar counter made from pine boards. And then we covered it with this same “NUT” color impregnation... Now almost 8 years have passed... It’s just that the “convergence” of the paint layer has become noticeable. But this is the 19th floor of the northern part of Moscow, blown by the most terrible winds, and practically this table is always flooded very heavily when it rains.

We covered the walls in the relaxation room of the bathhouse with OLYMPUS azure, covered the pediment of the guest room from the street side, and covered all the roof linings big house... For a long time of using it, while it shows itself on the good side.

Therefore, we didn’t think long and also bought azure from OLYMPUS for the walls.. The only difference is that this time we chose the azure not on water based. Therefore, it smelled strongly, was quite thick, you only need to dilute it with white spirit, and, accordingly, different care for brushes and rollers.