The coziness and comfort in the room depends on the lighting. You can make your home atmosphere full of warmth by making a lamp with your own hands. Ideas that will help you make an exclusive and fashionable lampshade yourself and at minimal cost can be gleaned from this article.
Pendant lamp in the interior
Preparation
What you need to know before making a lamp:
- It is recommended to use LED or energy-saving light bulbs when creating your own designer lamp. Standard incandescent bulbs get too hot and can damage the structure.
- If you are disassembling a finished lamp, you need to be extremely careful with the wires, and after finishing, make sure they are intact.
- There are light bulbs in several color temperatures. While creating pendant lamp For your home, you should opt for a “warm” shade.
A clear example for distinguishing color temperature: the higher the number on the box, the higher its temperature, and the cooler the shade of light it has.
Light bulb color temperatures
Frame selection
Before you make a lamp, you need to prepare the base. Most often it consists of a pair of rings to which a cardboard or plastic backing is attached to give it shape.
The following ideas will help resolve the issue of finding the basis for a future lampshade:
- You can make this type of frame yourself with only wire and pliers on hand.
- Frames are sold in construction stores or craft stores.
- It’s not uncommon to find old lamps at flea markets where you can get the frame.
- Instead of frame structure, the lamp socket can hold the neck of a 5 liter plastic bottle. Therefore, there is a solution in the figure below.
DIY lampshade
Lamp ideas
There is nothing complicated about decorating a pendant or table lamp yourself. But it’s better to draw a sketch on paper before starting work. The process will be simple and quick, and you can make changes along the way.
"Live" lamp
This designer lampshade is called “Photosynthesis”. It was designed and brought into reality by an author from Tel Aviv. The framework is shown here metal mesh, at the base of which is placed indoor plant. As it grows, the flower fills the entire interior space of the lamp and makes the design of the room summery and fresh. Here it is not necessary to use a regular LED. Creating such pendant lamp is not too troublesome. You can add variety to its decor, taking into account what accessories and tools will be available.
Hanging living lamp
When making such a lamp with your own hands, you cannot use an overly heavy pot with a plant. Special attention You need to pay attention to the insulation of the wiring and run it along the supporting wire.
Making a lamp with your own hands from fabric is an excellent solution, because big choice colors and textures allows you to realize many creative ideas and create decorative lampshades for a room with any interior. First of all, you need to prepare the necessary materials:
- textile;
- tape or self-adhesive film;
- ruler or centimeter;
- scissors;
- a simple pencil;
- metal rings for the frame;
- binders;
- brush;
- glue;
- strip of paper.
Sequencing:
- Before you make a lamp, you need to determine its shape. A cylindrical base is ideal for a fabric product.
When deciding on the height and width, you should make sure that the base is not too close to the light bulb.
- You need to cut out a rectangle from the adhesive film and a piece of fabric, the edges of which are 5 cm larger. Attach the fabric to the table with the film, face down.
- Find the most beautiful pattern on the fabric that should be on the lamp and use a ruler to draw the corners and dotted line.
- Align the fabric and stick the film on it.
- Using binder clips, secure the lampshade to the surface of the frame from the bottom and top.
- Use a pencil to mark the edges and the side that will be on top. Glue the parts of the lampshade to each other and let them dry.
- Turn the structure over, apply glue to the edge and insert a wire ring. Secure with binders and let dry. Repeat the procedure at the other end.
- Glue a strip of paper from the edges. After it dries, glue a fabric strip on top. Do the same on the seam on the side of the lamp.
DIY fabric lampshade
If you make small triangular cuts in the paper while gluing it, it will bend better.
There are other ideas on how to make a lamp with your own hands. Using various materials and fittings, you can create equally impressive decorative lampshades from threads, paper and other available materials.
Photo collage
To make such a designer lampshade-photo frame, you will need:
- frame, as in the previous example, or a ready-made lamp with a clean white lampshade;
- several sheets of tracing paper;
- scissors;
- PVA glue;
- a simple pencil;
- printer (recommended to use inkjet).
Choosing your favorites and beautiful pictures, using photo editors you need to make a collage. You can collage images by cutting them out of paper. This method leaves a lot of space for creative ideas: any decor can be applied to the lamp, not just a photo: a child’s drawing, a motivating aphorism or a map of your favorite area.
DIY photo collage table lamp
Before you make a lamp from photographs, you should make sure that the paint is dry. You should absolutely not bend paper sheets tracing paper, because the bend will always be noticeable.
Sun made of ropes
Creating such a designer pendant lamp is much easier than it seems. Required tools:
- threads;
- glue (for wallpaper or PVA);
- petrolatum;
- balloon.
Initially already inflated balloon lubricate with Vaseline. This is necessary so that threads do not stick to it. The threads are soaked in glue and wrapped around the ball. After the product dries, it is blown off and put away. The making of the rope sun is completed.
What needs to be done to make the decor of the lamp as successful as possible: firstly, you should first get your hands on it and make a couple of small lamps for testing. Secondly, before winding the threads on the ball, you need to mark the place where there should be no threads. Through this hole the ball will be removed and the light bulb will be inserted.
Making a lamp
Decorating the lamp is half the battle. The main thing is quality work done without sad consequences. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the following factors:
- If a lamp hanging from the ceiling is connected, the junction of the wires and the product itself must be covered with a protective cap.
- If the light bulb gets very hot during operation, the designer lampshade surrounding it should not be too close. This is why it is worth using small incandescent light bulbs.
- If the product is heavy, it is strictly forbidden to hang it on wires. For this purpose, special rods, cables or brackets are provided for mounting on walls or ceilings.
- To illuminate a room with high humidity: in a bathroom, sauna or bathhouse, it is better not to implement your ideas for making a lamp with your own hands, but to buy and install a special product that contains protection from moisture.
- During installation of the lamp, the wiring must be insulated to eliminate the possibility of injury to the master and his loved ones.
There is no doubt that properly executed kitchen lighting sets the tone for the entire interior. A chandelier can become the central element in this cozy and warm room.
Using scrap materials - or even waste - you can make a lampshade from threads, an eco-style lamp from jute twine or plastic bottles, or you can make a real masterpiece - a beautiful chandelier from wooden or glass beads.
You can also not only hang a lamp made by yourself in the kitchen or dining area, but also give it to your loved ones as a gift.
Method 1. From scrap materials - anyone can do it!
The simplest DIY lamp is made from threads. Indeed, even a child can handle such a design. So, to make a chandelier from threads, we will need:
- Threads - you can take regular jute twine or thick cotton threads with a total length of at least 100 meters, the color is chosen based on your imagination and the existing interior;
- PVA glue and brush for applying it;
- Petrolatum;
- 2 balloons - one for work, the second for testing; It is better to take a round ball, not an ordinary one, then the shape of the lamp will be the correct shape.
Advice! A children's or rubber beach ball will also work. For very large lamps, a fitball, for example, is suitable.
Work on creating a ball of thread is carried out in the following sequence:
- Inflate the balloon to the required size. Do not forget that the resulting lampshade made of threads will repeat the shape of the ball. Using a marker, draw one or two circles at the top and bottom (more at the bottom).
- Pour glue into a container and carefully process the threads. And the ball itself can be coated with Vaseline with a brush.
Advice! You shouldn’t apply glue to all the threads at once - it’s better to move along the winding area.
- Next comes winding the threads around the ball, taking into account the drawn holes - the density of the winding determines how your lampshade will turn out in the end.
- After the ball is wrapped, you need to leave the future chandelier to dry for at least 24 hours.
- The ball bursts and its remains are easily removed from the now solid structure. The result was a lampshade made of solid threads.
- A hole is cut at the top to accommodate the cartridge.
- You need to check the strength - another balloon is inserted into the lamp and inflated. This will demonstrate the flexibility of the design.
In this way, you can also create local lighting in the kitchen by creating several lamps from threads with your own hands. Or you can hang it in the dining area, as shown in the photo.
Do not forget that for a ball of thread you can make additional decor in the form of interesting coloring, beads, butterflies or artificial flowers, or you can make a whole bunch of balls of different sizes.
Using the same principle, you can come up with your own unique design lamp For example, made of lace, or a ceiling lamp as in the photo below.
Method 2. Creating a masterpiece - you need to try!
You can get excellent kitchen lighting if you make your own lamp from beads or fabric. You will get a lamp in style or a real candelabra chandelier.
For this job you will need:
- An old hoop, garden basket, hanging metal planter, or wire to create a frame;
- Decorative chains;
- Beads, beads, ribbons, strong threads;
- Lamp socket.
The lamp will be a two- or three-level structure of rings located one above the other and connected by chains or wire.
Rings can be taken in different sizes, creating a lampshade in the spirit of a vintage classic, or the same size - this is exactly the kind of lighting that is done in.
The base of the lamp is certainly painted, wrapped or decorated, after which they begin to string the beads.
The consumption of beads in this project is as follows:
Bottom part: beads with a diameter of 16 mm, 15 pcs. on a thread;
Upper part: beads with a diameter of 12 mm, 31-32 pcs. on the thread.
Here you can vary the degree of tension and the number of threads.
Advice! The work should be carried out by first hanging the chandelier and inserting a socket into it.
By analogy, you can create a chandelier from artificial fruits for the kitchen. And subdued lighting will be achieved if you use fabric to cover the frame. As a rule, such a lampshade is made for country and country styles.
Method 3. Lamps made from waste materials - for a modern kitchen!
The most original lamp can be made from such waste material as plastic bottles and disposable spoons are beautiful, cheap and environmentally friendly!
We make a lampshade in a minimalist style and - no additional decorations from threads or beads, only matte white or colored plastic. To make such dim kitchen lighting with your own hands, we will need:
- Base made from a 5-liter plastic bottle;
- Cartridge with wire and lamp;
- Glue for high-quality fixation;
- Lots of disposable spoons.
To make a chandelier with your own hands, cut out the bottom of the bottle and cut off the handles of the spoons (not completely, so that a small handle remains). Using glue, we fix the cut spoons on the base bottle. They need to be placed evenly, in a row, then the lampshade will look attractive.
Advice! Each next row overlaps, without gaps.
The resulting chandelier will resemble fish scales. However, it should be remembered that this design is quite dense, which means that additional lighting will definitely be needed in the kitchen.
The shape of the lamp can be different, for example, in the form of a lotus.
You can also make such decorations from disposable spoons.
A lamp made from plastic bottles, or rather from their bottoms, made with your own hands, may seem like lace or consisting of many small flowers.
Advice! Such a lampshade can be made not white, but colored - which means you need to take colored bottles or paint it with paint of the original color: copper, gold, steel, pink, black, etc.
The resulting lampshade can be hung in the kitchen or above the dining table.
Let your kitchen be cozy and bright! We wish you creative success and present some more great ideas for making kitchen lamps with your own hands from improvised materials.
In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the series - - general quality requirements, methods of generating a luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first - the rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the electrical network, were considered. From the previous article we learned how to make the main lighting parts of a lamp -. Now it's time to get to grips with the solid, reliable and beautiful structural foundation of it all.
About LEDs
LEDs as lighting sources are becoming increasingly popular: they are very economical, durable, and almost do not heat up, which provides ample opportunities for independent construction and design. In addition, low voltage power makes LED light sources safe. Therefore in this article a significant portion of the material is devoted to how to make your own LED lamp.
However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached ideal: its spectrum is quite harsh. It can be softened using various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, a street or garden LED lamp can be made independently without special precautions, and can also be autonomous; then volumetric ones disappear excavation and laying cables on the site. In this section, we will focus more on LED lamps.
Some examples of what can be achieved by using lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. Anyone who knows how to use the Internet can create a similar collection “for ideas” or “for inspiration.” And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to translate all this into material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Preferably at home, “on your knees.”
Materials, tools, equipment, technologies
To do good lamp, expensive and/or hard-to-find materials will not be needed. Previous technologies are focused on incandescent lamps, which get very hot and consume a lot of current. Today's homemade products have economy lamps and LED lamps that emit little heat, which allows them to simplify the design.
To make a lamp that is not inferior in appearance or quality to industrial designs, we will need scraps metal pipes ok, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized steel sheets with a thickness of 0.4-1 mm and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to get by with unnecessary trash. Processing wood for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not ignore it.
Note: Good old glass should not be discounted either. Take a look, for example, at this master class: diy.ru/post/3916/. This is what you can achieve by working at home with such difficult material. There is just one small “but” - what the author of the product (a man, no doubt, very skillful and shrewd) calls cutting is actually edging. However, what to call it is a matter of literalists, but for the master it is enough for the thing to turn out good.
Quite simple, but tasteful
Examples of excellent lamps made from scrap materials, namely scraps of wood and paper, are the well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The base is most often a slatted frame covered with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of the one in pos. 2, thin ones are better bamboo sticks(you can split an old fishing rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass fishing rods; sold in fishing stores. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. After pasting, the paper (preferably rice paper) is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Once dry, it will stretch. After this, the paper is varnished for strength.
A Chinese lantern can be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden rods on which shish kebab and kebab are served to the table). Both are made from light wood that reflects light quite well. And its slightly rough surface effectively scatters light, which softens it.
From chopsticks, placing their widened heads alternately left and right, side light-transmitting panels are assembled, pos. 3. And from table skewers you can make a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.
Plastics
But let's get back to the materials, we're not done with them yet. Excellent parts for chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic dishes– bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut off or sanded off. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass is “velvet” and polished with felt and GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.
The second type of plastic, which allows you to make a very original lamp (see figure) - polymer clay or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens the light very well.
Polymer clay is produced various colors immediately plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are quite hard at first, but soften when kneaded. To speed up and facilitate softening, you need to put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the block, and start kneading when it is absorbed.
From soft plastic lampshades are sculpted on a frame greased with Vaseline. Immediately, if necessary, fill in the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in Fig. To obtain an openwork lampshade, cut off the tip of the package and squeeze out the mass into a sausage. After about a day, the product will dry, then you can, without removing it from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, and frills. The product dries completely in 3-7 days.
Bar plastic is used to make lamp stands. After molding the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, turn off the gas to a minimum and “bake” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is not advisable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawed, drilled, polished, and painted. In this way, lamp bodies are sometimes not just original, but also quite piquant (see figure), and even frivolous to the point of decency, or even beyond it.
Ceramics
Since we're talking about stands, let's try to make a lamp from a bottle. Ceramic drink vessels designed by in-house designers deserve best use than garbage, moonshine or recyclables for pennies.
There are 2 problems here: stability and holes for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand filled 2/3 or 3/4 into the bottle. To solve the second, it seems like you need a tubular diamond drill, expensive, wears out quickly, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:
- Let's select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
- We will securely fix the vessel that we are going to drill so that the drill enters normally (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
- Around the site of the future hole we will mold a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
- Let's rub a couple of pieces of fine sandpaper against each other over a tray to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
- Pour it into the hole and add 3-5 drops of machine oil - you can drill.
For drilling a drill clamped in a chuck copper tube It’s better to put it in a frame that turns it into a tabletop drilling machine. Such beds are sold in tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefits to the craftsman are invaluable. Moreover, you can buy for the bed turntable with degree scale.
They drill into ceramics using copper and corundum using pushes: press a little - lift - press again - lift. The abrasive particles first eat into the copper and drill, but then immediately break off and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum “sputtering” on copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube falls exactly into the already selected groove with each feed.
Electrical fittings
For a novice lighting technician, it is probably best to use sockets for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27Н, and the drawing is shown in Fig. It will not be possible to attach such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if you find an M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, using a hand crank, cutting a thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting through it or twisting it is very difficult, even with lubricant. For fastening with flanges you will have to make a fastening ring, as described in the article about lampshades, this is much simpler.
Note: if you are making a wall lamp in which the lamp is located along the base, then sockets with a side strip are usually used, see figure, but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also get by with a flange cartridge: bend an Ω-shaped clamp from the wire and attach it to the base with self-tapping screws.
The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the lamp to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for ease of installation, but also according to safety requirements: suddenly the chandelier breaks, its thinner wires will break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring will not be damaged, which will prevent an accident and ceiling-slotting repair work.
It is better to take the terminal block of the “comb” type, see figure:
These are compact, reliable, eliminate accidental short circuits, and by cutting jumpers between sections, it is easy to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter no more than 2 into each terminal stranded wires copper cross-section up to 1.4 sq. mm in total and no more than 1 single-core, regardless of area cross section its conductor.
About wooden lamps
Wood, on the one hand, is easy to process and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.
Cable channels
The first problem that arises during production wooden lamp: how to make channels for cables in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, “on your knee,” you can use a wood drill with a narrowed 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly placed on it, crimped, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to form a hand crank; To make work easier and more accurate, it is better to take a double-band drill.
Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:
- At both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the required diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to ensure that they go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
- Drill with the described hand crank alternately from both ends, each time going through no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
- Chips from the holes are carefully removed after each pass;
- After the connection, the jumpers pass through the hole twice, from one end and the other. This is necessary to remove the step inside, on which the cable could get caught when tightening.
How to bend wood?
Bent lamp wooden parts it is quite possible to do it yourself: seasoned fine-grained wood softens under heat without delaminating, and when it cools, it retains its given shape. The easiest to bend are bamboo, walnut and soft wood, eg. Linden. More difficult is wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. It is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to undertake bending oak, beech, rowan and other hardwoods. MDF also bends well.
They bend wood either steamed in boiling water or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but is suitable, except for bamboo, for few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because The wood does not swell and, accordingly, does not shrink when cooling.
To bend wood, you need a piece of steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both ends open for dry bending. The steaming pipe is installed obliquely, the workpiece is placed in it, filled with water and boiled. The boiling water should be vigorous so that the workpiece is bathed in bubbles of steam. The process is continued for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can remove the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water to replace the boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a construction hairdryer. First, you need to check on a sample of wood what temperature it can withstand without charring or cracking.
How to tighten cables?
The cables are tightened into the tubular parts of the lamps using a guide rod - a “fishing rod” - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. The “fishing rod” must be completely level; Even a smoothly curved wire wound from a reel can become crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the “fishing rod” is straightened by pulling it through a rag held tightly in the fist. The best guides are made from enameled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.
The “fishing rod” is inserted from the far end. Before doing this, its tip is bent tightly, see figure, so that it is rounded. The rod is pushed into the curved channels by slightly pushing and turning. When moving from channel to channel (see below), the running end is guided with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.
When the end of the thrust appears opposite side, it is cleaned to 20-30 mm and serviced. The cable wires are stripped and tinned for the same amount, up to 3 per 1 “rod”. Then everything is rolled together and soldered. The twist is bent in the opposite direction to the tightening direction so that it does not snag. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and tightening the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel should not be tensioned all the time! If it gets caught, pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull again.
Note: into a straight metal tube with an internal diameter of 12 mm, you can tighten up to 4 2-wire cables in double insulation with a copper core cross-section of up to 0.5 square meters. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree there is only 1 cable of the same type.
Starting from the ceiling
Hanging a lamp from a ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable part. Hanging lamps at the 1st point is only allowed if the base is a viscous, durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in Fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the anchor of the lamp must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must work in compression, pos. c) – d).
A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a mounting strip, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the mounting holes in the plank should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is plasterboard, or suspended, or suspended, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the decorative level using wooden or metal profile crosses or plywood slabs at the top there. How to make a suspension in some other cases, we will look further.
The main requirement for hanging is that the lamp should under no circumstances hang on wires. It should be held by either a rigid rod, or a strong cord/rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. Under the top cap of the suspension, the power cable should lie in a loose loop and should not be pulled, crushed or pinched anywhere.
How to make a lamp?
Now he will try to combine the information received into a solid product, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as soulfully as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:
- We avoid complex and/or technological operations requiring special skills in every possible way.
- We use adhesive or soldered joints only as auxiliary ones that hold the joined parts from moving. A product assembled without gluing or soldering should, in the absence of external influences, remain intact in its normal position for an indefinitely long time.
- We will try to make do with an additional tool hand electric drill and a small removable bench vice with a screw clamp for fastening to the table.
Let's start with the chandelier, as the most complex type household lamp.
Chandelier
On a cord
The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in Fig. In this case, you will have to additionally drill 4 holes in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green at pos. 1a. Cord knots must be knitted so that they do not slip or unravel, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord – any rot-resistant cross lay (for example, linen) with an untensioned diameter of 8 mm or more. Spiral cords and ropes are not designed for long-term tensile loads!
The most important part is the suspension hook (red gearbox). It must be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod will support a weight of up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made hook for a chandelier, it won’t be any worse.
Suspension rods with the same weight are made of 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg you can get by with a 1.5 mm one, and with a weight up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheets 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weights up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.
Note: the technology for soldering steel at home is described in.
In this case, it is better to secure the upper cup from sliding with a rubber ring, because the spring washer can crush the cable running underneath it. A good pallet is made from computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the shade, it is turned downwards, respectively, with the painted or mirrored side. Radial cuts are made in the tray for the lampshade extensions.
The upper cup and cap are made of plastic dishes, see above. The cap lies freely on the pallet. Glue – any assembly glue.
Note: The lower nut securing the cartridge should fit into the hole in the pan, and not press it. Otherwise, there may be difficulties when repairing or cleaning the chandelier.
On the phone
In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (item 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to tie a knot at their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of pulls can be anything from 3. Accordingly, the ring can be made without an additional row of holes, such as is described in the article on lampshades.
It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut on the side at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link in a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.
The eyelet for the hook in the suspension rod is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After this (and not before), a hole is drilled for laying the cable, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A rod for a lamp weight of up to 15 kg can be made from the following types of pipes:
- Solid drawn steel – internal diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing – painting or covering with heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) in the desired color.
- Steel with seam – internal. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finishing is the same.
- Copper gas in a plastic shell - internal. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. No finishing is needed, and it will shine like copper for years. You cannot solder; under the adhesive joint you need to remove the plastic covering in that place.
- For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper – internal. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. Very easy to solder and glue. To preserve the copper shine, you need to coat the finished rod twice with transparent water-based acrylic varnish, diluted twice with distilled water.
- Simple red copper – internal. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is soldered after stripping, you need to use flux paste with borax. It darkens over time and under the coating, so it is better to make retro-style lamps from such tubes.
- Plumbing propylene ones are very durable, but do not glue and, of course, cannot be soldered with solder. There is no point in finishing it, the design turns out horrifying in any case.
Many-horned
From the tubes you can make chandeliers with brackets-horns for individual illuminators. The device for connecting the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. The horns, if their number is even, are connected in pairs with through threaded rods M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for studs are located on different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can have horns, incl. if their number is odd, fasten them with pairs of small metal screws, but then you need to tighten the cables very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.
Note: complex/extended bends of the tubes are formed in sections, gradually advancing manual pipe bender along the length of the future bend.
If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover their connection with the bar with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown by the dotted line in position 5). In addition, then the laying of cables will be much simpler: a terminal block will be placed under the hood, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire will go up in the rod.
Multi-arm chandeliers are most often made with switchable light. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Don’t forget - SB switches (switches) must be connected to the phase wire! And also, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with protective grounding, Never use a grounding wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply circuit (solidly grounded or isolated neutral)! The ground electrode is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But anyway, before we start electrical installation work you need to find zero and phase with a phase indicator!
About phases, zero and ground
Safety regulations (STB), electrical installation devices (EPI) and Codes of Rules (SP) for electrical installation work for related industries (for example, construction) clearly regulate the color of insulation of only grounding wires - yellow with a green stripe; The colors indicating phase wires A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system is a power supply system with an insulated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. Therefore, select suitable cables from the commercially available ones to make apartment wiring “without a knot, without a hitch" is not always possible.
The chandelier is heavy...
For ceiling lamps weighing 15 kg or more, fastening to the first rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the lamp with a 3-fold margin.
The cradle is attached to the ceiling using a triangular or square load-bearing steel plate with a thickness of 5 mm or more, pos. 7 in Fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is required: without it, if one of the corner fasteners becomes too loose, the mechanical load will “slam” onto the next weakest one, the pendant will break out like a domino and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.
The corner attachment points must be located on a conventional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the chandelier’s weight in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling should be 9 times their diameter, as with a 2-point suspension on a plank, see above. Eyelets or hooks under the cradle branches are welded to the supporting plate. Homemade lugs can be made from 6mm wire rod.
... and ultra-light
Hobbyists make a lot of lamps from disposable plastic tableware, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the socket in the lampshade/shade using the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, take the cartridge E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. "Ears" of the cartridge using sewing needle they are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with threads, thin copper wire or fishing line.
Secondly, the suspension of a super-light lamp can also be made into a cradle, but from fishing line. Its branches are inserted into the ceiling cap along with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (remember, it should not be stretched, pinched or crushed anywhere) is twisted or twisted in a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?
Floor lamp
A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is basically an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in Fig. above with lamp designs. First: the rod (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an internal diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring – galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.
Further, the lower support of the floor lamp must provide a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure for attaching the bottom of the stand. A crosspiece of approximately 450x450 mm made of oak timber 100x100 mm will fit under a standard type floor lamp. They drill into it in the center blind hole 75-80 mm deep along the outer diameter of the stand, and glue it into the socket with mounting glue. They also glue the stand into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in terms of design and strength, to apply a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum) onto the glue. The described design allows an amateur to do without custom-turned parts when making a floor lamp.
Desk lamp
A working table lamp based on our construction principles is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: quite massive and solid foundation(wood, plastic) with a stepped through hole along the axis. The lampshade ring is placed on the step and secured with self-tapping screws. Then it will at the same time press the tendrils of the lampshade and it will not dangle.
Note: For the base of a table lamp from ceramic or glassware, you need to make a knob top with a stepped hole that fits onto its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.
For outdoor lighting
External 220 V lamps will be left purchased: It is impossible to make a “forever” sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed housing with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable entry will be quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.
However, it may not come down to electricity: for temporary lighting in the garden or at a picnic, even in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, and it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see video:
Video: DIY candle lantern from a coffee can
This lamp is also suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be attached to the lid, which is more reliable.
A permanent outdoor lamp must already be electric. the main problem at the same time - reliable sealing. Helps out here again glassware with screw cap: outdoor light comes out of a can well. In this case, because a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a container from conservation. The cable entry pipe is made by piercing the cover with a round pointed rod. To ensure a complete seal, aquarium silicone is applied to the inside of the lid rim once and for all before screwing it on.
A “once and for all” lamp involves the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because non-residential or workroom. Taking these conditions into account, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from LED strip: it will provide sufficiently bright lighting with a negligible electricity consumption. For an example of making such a lamp, see:
Video: DIY garden lantern in 15 minutes
In the garden and in general on the site, high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, just so as not to leave the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, barn or bathroom. But it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp that is autonomous: the issue here is not the cost of electricity, but of the cable, and who would like to ruin a well-groomed area with trenches?
Powered garden lights solar panels(SB) and buffer battery (AB) are commercially available, but they are either expensive or short-lived. Let’s try to figure out whether it’s possible to do this on our own, especially since it’s quite possible:
- 4 white LEDs with a current of 20 mA each in a lampshade made of milk glass or a frosted plastic bottle will illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m more or less acceptable for garden needs. With a current of each 10 mA in the light spot it will still be possible to see where the stone is, and where is the hole? Total average 60 mA.
- The battery, taking into account weak recharging in winter and reduced capacity in the cold, should provide maximum current to the lights for at least 30 hours. Pen-type batteries with a capacity of 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant down to –20, are available for sale. We take the minimum permissible battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
- Voltage drop across the luminous diode is approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the battery discharge mode, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, so the total battery voltage is 6 V.
- The SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery at 74%, should produce a current of approx. 75 mA. For winter in mid-latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
- Also, taking into account the energy efficiency of the battery and voltage losses during charging, we take the battery voltage to 9 V.
- To ensure that the battery life does not decrease due to overcharging, the recharging current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mAh and a short-circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is met, and even more so with a battery capacity of 3500 mAh. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply install a silicon rectifier diode.
Scheme of autonomous garden lamp, constructed taking into account the described conditions, is shown in Fig.:
Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to the point of degradation of the active medium due to overcharging and only in exceptional cases can it achieve a deep discharge; therefore, its resource remains normal when used in harsh conditions temperature conditions. The “highlight” here is SB. Their internal resistance is large and nonlinear, according to a power law, and increases with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the rated one. From this point of view, in this circuit it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs.
The control device CU closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the “twilight” level. By that time, VD1 will have already closed and the battery will stop charging. The control unit is connected to the battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, a reed switch is better, because a conventional one with a low-voltage coil will draw more current than all LEDs. In this case, it is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, almost to zero. Since the current here is constant, the thyristor, once opened, will not “stop” until it completely drains the battery.
About aquarium lighting
To illuminate aquariums, special linear fluorescent lamps are used. Not the same as phytolamps for flower shelves: the range of aquarium lamps is adjusted to the optical properties of water and living needs aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general indoor lighting: light that promotes photosynthesis is not always beneficial for human vision.
A self-made sconce from scrap materials will decorate any interior. This does not require special skills or large financial investments. You should purchase a lamp socket from a hardware store in advance, and then come up with a lampshade for it. There is only one requirement for materials: they must withstand high temperatures, if the lamp is used with incandescent lamps.
From paper
Openwork
To make sconces, cut out the base for the floor lamp from paper, and use a stationery knife to make neat holes, imitating lace. This option allows you to diffuse the light from the source.
From cylinders
Lampshades can be easily glued together from a variety of colored paper strips.
From paper tapes
Origami
Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
Herbarium
Materials:
Manufacturing:
Design of a paper lampshade
A Chinese paper lampshade in the shape of a ball can be easily transformed into original item interior
From cardboard
Cardboard is used similarly to paper, but due to its solid form it has a wider range of applications. Cardboard can be used with incandescent lamps without any consequences.
Round lampshade
Thick cardboard is used for its cut texture. Such products are usually not painted. Sconces made of corrugated cardboard, which are made in the shape of a ball, look impressive. You will need a lot of material, but manufacturing will not take much time.
You need to use a compass to draw circles on cardboard, cut them out with a stationery knife to make straight cut and glue them together into the desired shape.
Square lamp
Materials:
- corrugated cardboard;
- PVA glue;
- stationery knife;
- scissors;
- cartridge;
- pencil and ruler (triangle).
Manufacturing:
- Using a ruler, draw a large square with an edge of 20 centimeters or more on a sheet of cardboard.
- Then, in increments of 1 centimeter, so many smaller squares are written inward until there is no free space left in the center. As a result, the largest square will have an edge of 20 centimeters, the next one will have 18, 16 and so on.
- Using a stationery knife, the cardboard is cut into blanks to create several square frames.
- You need to make 4 such blanks so that the largest square always has the same edge length. Those parts that will be inside can be reduced by a different number of centimeters.
- After everything is ready, each side plane of the future lamp must be decorated. The outer square will always be the same, and the frames inside can be placed as desired. Glue them together using PVA.
- For the base, thin strips are cut out of cardboard, the length of which is equal to the edge of the square. They are stacked in 4-5 pieces and glued together. A hole is made in one place to pull the cartridge through.
- When everything is ready, the side edges of the lamp are glued together and the light bulb is screwed into the socket.
From newspaper tubes
To create a sconce, cut the newspaper into equal strips, twist it into tubes and, placing them in the desired shape, glue them together. Ready product put on top of the socket with an energy-saving light bulb.
Made of wood
Wood offers a wide range of ideas. Even blocks are folded like a tower when playing mahjong, a frame is created from them and the paper is stretched ( Japanese style), connected to each other in a chaotic manner, like a nest.
Dog lamp
Materials:
- Wooden blocks 30 by 25 millimeters in cross section;
- Metal flower pots;
- Wire for connecting the light bulb;
- Cartridge according to the size of the flowerpot;
- Black paint;
- 6 bolts;
- drill.
Manufacturing:
From threads
Original thread lamps are designed for use in a dry room, so they are not suitable for the bathroom, but they look good in the kitchen and living room. They are made using balloons, which are wrapped with threads lubricated with glue. When the structure is dry, the ball is burst and the remaining rubber is removed. The result is a fairly dense wicker frame.
Threads allow you to experiment with the shape, size and color of the finished product. Such a lamp is decorated with beads and seed beads, and artificial flowers or decorative butterflies are attached to it. Initially, you should leave holes at the bottom and top for the socket and the possibility of replacing light bulbs. In this case, it is better to use energy-saving lamps that do not heat up.
From pipes
Loft-style sconces are best made from metal pipes and fittings.
Materials:
- Fittings - quantity varies depending on the specific composition;
- Wire and lamp socket;
- Drill;
- Glue for metal.
Manufacturing:
- Connect the fittings together in a single composition. Lamps in the shape of people or dogs look the most interesting. Some parts are connected to each other using ready-made threads, while others require glue.
- A small hole is made in one of the “legs” of the object through which the cord will stretch.
- When all the parts are connected to each other, the hollow tubes are allowed to electrical cable. It is pulled out from the side where the lamp will have a lamp.
- The wire is connected to the socket into which the lamp is inserted. Due to the flat and heavy parts, such a lamp does not require an additional stand and can be used directly.
From wire
Often a frame is made from it, which is then covered with other material. If the material is too dense, then individual parts will have to be welded or soldered. thin wire It is enough to tie it in an inconspicuous place.
Wire helps to create unimaginable products, imitate other materials, and make antique sconces.
Ball with butterflies
Materials:
- The wire is thick and thin;
- Wire cutters;
- Socket with light bulb;
- Form for braiding (ball, vase, bottle).
Manufacturing:
From bottles
From a dark bottle with a narrow neck you can make a fairy lamp in a couple of minutes. To do this, an LED garland with small bulbs is immersed in it and plugged into the network.
You can cut the bottom off the bottle and then insert a suitable shade inside.
It will be effective if you connect several of these bottles by twisting the wires together.
To detach the bottom glass bottle You will need: wool thread, a lighter and flammable liquid(alcohol, lighter fluid).
- Close the sink drain and fill it with water. It is important that there are no flammable objects nearby during the process.
- Remove the labels from the bottle and wash it thoroughly.
- Where the cut should pass, wind the thread dipped in a flammable liquid several times.
- Set fire to the thread.
- Hold the burning bottle over the sink and slowly turn it along its axis so that the fire comes into contact with the entire surface of the future cut.
- After 2 minutes, sharply immerse the bottom of the bottle in water, after which the bottom will come away on its own and remain in the sink.
From the branches
It’s difficult to make a lampshade for a sconce from wood yourself if you don’t have experience working with this material. A simple way is to use small branches, gluing them together in any shape you like. Natural wood It is convenient to connect with a glue gun.
Small lamps may not require a special frame, but floor sconces will require ready base from old lamp or a large number of wire. Such sconces look beautiful in an interior where elements made from natural materials are already present.
From plaster
Gypsum cannot be classified as an improvised material, but it produces beautiful, laconic works. To make a lamp, you will need a mold into which the gypsum mixture will be poured, so you will have to think about it in advance. You will also need tools to make holes for the cartridge and wire.
Art supply stores have lamp bases in different shapes. They are usually made of disposable plastic and are easy to handle. To make several identical lamps, you will have to find a silicone mold.
Materials:
- large glass flask;
- medical bandages;
- gypsum;
- water;
- socket with lamp.
Manufacturing:
In order for the lamp to transmit light, the mixture is made strong enough, but the bandages are wound in a maximum of 3 layers, leaving holes. If desired, the finished lamp can be painted with spray paint.
From plywood
Plywood is easier to handle than solid wood, but it also requires basic carpentry skills, since to make sconces you will first have to create a drawing and precisely cut out each part.
Plywood lamps can have different shapes. For the production of flat wall lamps cut out 2 identical shapes, which are secured at a short distance from each other. A socket with a light bulb is inserted inside. When the lights in the room are turned off, and only the night light is on, a person sees only the outlines of a figure made of plywood.
Flat lamp
Materials:
- plywood;
- 3 brackets;
- jigsaw;
- dye;
- cartridge;
- self-tapping screws;
- glue gun
Manufacturing:
pendant lamp
Materials:
- 1 sheet of thin plywood measuring 1 square meter;
- Wood glue;
- Grinder machine;
- Electric circular saw for small jobs;
- Lamp socket;
- Pencil;
- Compass.
Manufacturing:
- Mark 2 figures on a sheet of plywood with a compass. The first has a diameter of 10 centimeters, while another circle with a diameter of 4 centimeters is inscribed inside. The inner circle must correspond to the size of the socket of the future lamp, so it can be larger.
- A second circle is drawn with a diameter of 14 centimeters on the outside and another one with a diameter of 8 is inscribed there.
- 2 rings are cut out of the blanks, which are the top and bottom of the frame for the lamp.
- On the remaining sheet of plywood, side wedges in the amount of 20 pieces are drawn, and recesses 1 centimeter deep and 4 millimeters wide are made there.
- All parts are carefully sanded so that the cut parts become smooth.
- The side blanks are connected to the rings.
- A cartridge is inserted into the upper ring. The lamp is ready for use.
Letter shaped lamp
Made from lace
Typically this material is used for classic floor lamps. Balls, thick paper or wire are used as the base. The lace base is secured with threads or glue. Some people specifically soak the material in starch so that it holds its shape well.
Materials:
- piece of lace;
- starch, PVA glue, gelatin (optional);
- balloon;
- cling film;
- socket with a light bulb;
- sharp scissors.
Manufacturing:
- Cut out circles of the same shape from the lace; for this it is convenient to use a large plate.
- Dip the workpieces into a container with diluted starch to make the material harder.
- The base will be a balloon. To make it easily come away from the lace, the ball should be covered with cling film.
- Cover the entire ball with lace, trying to carefully smooth out the folds. The layers should be on top of each other. If the lace is thin, then after the first layer the structure should be left for an hour, and then the second layer should be applied.
- After 2 days, pierce the ball and remove it.
- Make a hole in the resulting sphere to insert the cartridge and secure the suspended structure.
From yarn
If you have knitting skills, neat floor lamps made with crochet and knitting look beautiful.
Materials:
- wooden plank;
- electrical cord;
- lamp socket;
- gelatin;
- yarn.
Manufacturing:
- Using a hook or knitting needles, knit a blank for the lampshade, which should be shaped like a dome.
- 2 packs of gelatin are diluted in a glass of water, the future lampshade is placed on a vase or other suitable surface and lubricated with dissolved gelatin. Leave it for a day.
- A circle-shaped blank is made from wood; it will be attached to the wall. A hole is made in it for the cable and a small groove so that it does not interfere with the lamp fitting tightly to the surface.
- A cable is inserted into the hole, then a dried knitted lampshade. The cable is connected to the cartridge, the structure can be hung on the wall. If desired, you can find a metal nozzle on the lampshade so that it better holds its shape at the base. In the same way, an overlay in the shape of a wooden plate on the wall is made to match the lampshade.
In addition to knitting, yarn is also used for winding the warp. You can stop at one color or take several, forming stripes. With enough skill, yarn can be used to create designs, logos, and words.
It is best to use acrylic yarn for lamps and not use incandescent lamps.
From cutlery
Unusual compositions are created from metal cutlery. To make a sconce out of them, you will first have to make a strong base of dense wire. Then drill a hole in each handle, and then secure all the devices to the frame. A similar product looks good if different cutlery of the same size is used.
In a room where the interior contains a lot metal parts, they make multi-level lamps from spoons that resemble flowers. To do this, 7–8 spoons are secured around the cartridge using wire, forming petals. With small cartridges, use tea or coffee spoons. Such flowers are beautifully collected in one chandelier.
Made of plastic
Plastic bottles can become the basis for sconces. The same type of parts are cut out of them, which are then connected to each other. To make the product look neat, the sections are treated with a lighter. Often this method is used to make a lamp in the shape of a ball. You can connect the fragments together with a glue gun, but you can only use an energy-saving lamp with such a floor lamp.
From spoons
Another option for a plastic lamp involves the use of disposable plastic spoons. The result is a lampshade that looks like a cone, which can be spray painted if desired. A plastic bottle of 3 or 5 liters is used as a basis. The bottom is cut out. And then spoons are glued along the rows, the handles of which have been removed in advance. Convenient way- glue gun. Manufacturing starts from the bottom and imitates scales.
From plates
Materials:
- 50 flat plates with a diameter of 18 centimeters;
- a finished lampshade in the shape of a drum with a diameter of 15 centimeters and a height of 13 (if it is made of paper, the excess can be trimmed);
- glue gun;
- lamp base;
- ruler, scissors, pencil and stationery knife.
Manufacturing:
From clothespins
Materials and tools:
- socket and light bulb;
- construction metal mesh;
- clothespins;
- a can of paint of the desired color;
- metal scissors;
- metal paper clips.
Manufacturing:
What could be more beautiful than the satisfaction of an original craft created with one’s own hand, which will become a bright accent in the drabness of everyday life? We offer several simple models, the production of which does not require professional skills and financial costs. Let's get to work!
Every day we have to throw away empty tetrapacks, but meanwhile this is an excellent basis for an openwork chandelier. We cut strips 5 cm wide, fold them into the required shape and begin to carefully glue them together. To prevent the structure from falling apart prematurely, assembly can be done on a round piece of suitable size.
Disposable spoons make a pretty decent lampshade. Take a 5-liter plastic container and cut off the bottom. We break off the cuttings and the remaining parts using glue gun We mount it on a base, imitating a pineapple peel. It is better to use a low-temperature light bulb for safety reasons.
Regular wooden hangers transform when creative approach. Simply by cutting them in half and placing them in a circle, you get a modernist chic lamp from the 30s era. A completely surreal option is also possible - pass a strong thread through the suspension attachment point and simply string the hangers, unrolling them a little.
Funny Gummy Bears – perfect solution for children's. The difficulty lies in the accuracy of the placement of individual figures, so we recommend making a template with radial holes through which we lower the white threads. Don't even think about using lollipops - these are acrylic figures!
The effect of a dense forest in the bedroom is achieved by whimsical chiaroscuro. A few stylistic roots, wire, skillful hands - and an original ball under the ceiling will plunge the room into the world of the unknown. Or collect the rhizomes, clean, dry and bind them however you like. It is better to varnish the finished product.
Has your drum kit lost its former appeal and is gathering dust in the garage? From boring musical instrument an extravagant chandelier can be mounted without any problems - fortunately, that’s all fasteners originally included in the kit. Original and beautiful, and most importantly – quiet!
If you are the owner of a bicycle workshop, then you probably have a container with unusable spare parts in the corner. A little creativity and welding machine– you will get a unique product, similar to the ancient inventions of the crazy Mechanicus. Of course, you can’t hang it in the living room, but it’s just right for a nightclub.
A leaky galabash (African gourd bottle) lends itself well to engraving. Intricate patterns, contrasting transitions of textures from shiny to matte, elegant perforations scatter ethnic ornaments of the Dark Continent on the walls.
It's all in the bag - a funny tandem of a top hat and a bowler hat creates a solid ambience for a cigar club for gentlemen. If you're not an English dandy, don't despair - an old Stetson, a bright sombrero or a straw brill will work too. It is important not to be hostage to sanctimonious dogmas.
Paper cups for cakes will become an elegant accent to your interior. This is not at all difficult - we glue them together in two, straightening the bottom one, and connect the resulting “flowers” with a thread in a spiral. Original night light Cover with glue or varnish for strength.
Banal iron graters look very original above the bar counter. You need 4 tubes with electric sockets and a meter piece of 2-core wire. Don't forget about fire safety– metal shades get seriously hot.
Yours lace napkins have you served your purpose? Don't rush to part with them! We inflate a white balloon, find a brush and PVA, straighten the material on the surface and coat it generously. After an hour, the elegant lampshade is ready for use.
Cutlery can decorate a meal beyond just serving. Spoons gathered into a bun resemble a silver tulip. And connoisseurs of Kandinsky or Dali will appreciate the avant-garde cube constructed from knives and forks. Bon appetit!
An interesting effect in a children's room is created by small light screens in the form of a cartoon cloud. The light bulb located behind it dimly illuminates the walls without blinding the eyes. By adding some more funny clouds, we get a romantic sunset.
Several brightly glowing globes will dynamically enliven the space above the stairs. Oceans and continents will light your way - an original and charismatic solution with deep implications. Choose the right proportions for your unique installation and get charged with positivity.
Don't know what to do with the mismatched remains of the services? Drill holes in the cup and saucer, place the socket in the middle and connect with a hollow tie - just like in a regular lamp. White porcelain perfectly diffuses light - hang the composition above the coffee table and enjoy a fragrant drink.
A ball of yarn can be successfully used as a chandelier. Several skeins of thread, a white balloon, electrical fittings and glue - we randomly wrap the base and spread it generously with astringent. Wait until it dries completely - and your unique masterpiece is ready. They cannot play football, but the product is quite reliable.
Is it possible to do table lamp from beer cans? It turns out yes! Only we will need a lot of them - after all, we only use valves for opening. We knit a frame of the desired shape from rigid wire and begin to braid the base. It turns out something like shiny chain mail. Unfortunately, the exact amount of raw materials is unknown.
This charming lamp in the shape of a cute alien animal is very easy to make. The most labor-intensive process is cutting narrow paper wedges. We connect several wire rings together to get something like a sphere, and use tape to attach the prepared parts in layers. All!
An option with pronounced charisma will appeal to confirmed bachelors and lovers of noisy parties. Having seen the impressive installation above the table, guests will immediately understand what awaits them in the next couple of hours. Cheap and cheerful, but with soul...
What to do with endless plastic bottles? If you are tired of fighting them, we suggest you turn their myriad of them to your benefit, at least partially. Cut off the bottoms, and you will have a lot of small parts in your hands. Connect them randomly with threads - there are no restrictions on the shape.
