Dry basement or how to make drainage in the basement of a house yourself? Cellar drainage. How to choke on water in a cellar? How to make simple drainage with forced removal of water

Since the basement of the house is underground, it is often flooded with melt or groundwater. The room becomes unsuitable for storing vegetables and property. High humidity renders in the basement Negative influence on the foundation walls. Water contributes to the destruction of materials, causing the walls of the room to become damp and crack. Basement drainage helps solve this problem.

Purpose and need for drainage in the basement

Internal drainage in the basement of a private house is used to divert water entering the premises. groundwater. Refusal of the drainage device helps to save money cash. You can do without drainage in the following cases:

when groundwater lies below the foundation level;
if the house is built on an area with sandy soil that easily allows moisture to pass through;
when there are no nearby buildings under construction marshy soils or bodies of water that extend beyond their banks.

Water disposal is necessary when construction is carried out in potentially danger zone. Drainage in the basement of a private house is installed when:

construction on sloping areas located at the foot of a hill, along which precipitation and melt water flow;
frequent occurrence of flooding of residential buildings during spring floods or summer rains;
construction of a building on a site with clay soils, poorly permeable to moisture.

Geodetic expertise helps determine the type of soil and assess the feasibility of drainage arrangement.

System design

Drainage systems in the basements of garages or residential buildings are closed structures made of pipes connected by inspection wells. The latter allow you to evaluate the permeability of elements. The systems are arranged as follows:

The pipes are laid in trenches dug at an angle (the slope should be directed towards the centralized sewer system or large capacity). The cistern accumulates moisture, preventing it from penetrating into the basement.
A pump is connected to the tank. The device is necessary for regular drainage of the container into which water is discharged through the drainage pipes for the cellar. The collected liquid is used for technical needs or drained off-site.
The pipes are wrapped in waterproofing material and covered with crushed stone. This increases the service life of the drainage ground floor, helps to trap large particles and bring water to the drainage holes.

Required tools and materials

Before you start arranging the drainage of the basement, you need to prepare following materials and tools:

Pipes. Used for basement drainage plastic products perforated type. Recommended diameter - 10-15 cm. For the manufacture of drainage inspection wells basement use pipes with a diameter of 25-50 cm.
Waterproofing material. By doing installation work Most often, geotextiles are used, which have an increased service life.
Connecting parts. To fasten the elements of the basement drainage system, you will need corner fittings, tees and adapters for connecting pipes of different sizes.
Auxiliary materials (crushed stone, sand, gravel).
Pipe cutter, welding machine or glue gun.

Arrangement of internal drainage

Internal systems that provide basement drainage are used only if it is impossible to arrange external drainage.

How to make drainage in the basement of a house (installation stages):

Preparatory stage. Room before the start construction work needs to be dried. Special waterproofing and antiseptic compounds are applied to the walls.
Pipe laying. This process is practically no different from the algorithm for carrying out work on laying an underground pipeline on the street. Before laying the system elements, a layer of earth is removed, reaching the base of the foundation. A jackhammer is used to dig trenches in concrete.
Installation of inspection wells. These parts drainage system installed at a distance of 3-5 m from each other. The pipes are covered with geotextiles, the trenches are filled with gravel or crushed stone.
Tank installation. The container is dug into the ground, pipes and a pump are connected to it. If technical capabilities are available, liquid will be drained into a sand cushion located under the base of the building.
Floor arrangement. After returning the removed soil, a concrete screed is made, and waterproofing material is placed on top. After this, you can cover the floor with any material you like.

Internal drainage systems can be combined with external ones. This is used when groundwater rises and penetrates into the basement, bypassing street drainage.

Creation of an external drainage system

Arrangement of external drainage for the ground floor or basement of a private house includes the following steps:

Dismantling foundation formwork, laying pipes. Along the outer walls of the basement, a trench is dug with a depth below the level of the base of the house and a width of 0.5 m. Water is pumped out from the trench, after which the bottom of the hole is leveled.
Foundation waterproofing. Base walls cover bitumen mastic and covered with insulation. Geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the drainage holes. The edges of the material should be large enough to wrap around gravel-lined pipes. Crushed stone is laid on top of the geotextile in a 10 cm thick layer. Since the pipes must lie at an angle, small stones are used to create height differences.
Laying out system elements. Perforated pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are laid in a prepared trench. The corners are connected by adapters. Install every 10-20 m inspection wells.
System check. After this stage is completed, gravel is poured over the pipes, covering the system elements with geotextiles. The trench is covered with soil mixed with sand and crushed stone.

At the same time, the main trench is dug into which a pipe is laid connecting the drainage to a container for storing liquid. The main part is buried 0.5 m below the drainage system. This allows water to flow easily into the tank. The water storage tank is placed at a distance of 15 m from the building. The main trench is filled with crushed stone, sand and soil.

Basement drainage will save your “bins” from seasonal flooding and strengthen the foundation walls of your home. Indeed, with the help of thoughtful drainage of the supporting soil and backfill, it is possible to lower the groundwater level and reduce soil moisture.

Ultimately, with the help of drainage, it is possible to increase the bearing capacity of the supporting soil and influence the tendency of the soil to heave deformations that destroy the structure of the foundation.

Therefore, in this article we will analyze the technology for draining the basement, both of a building under construction and of an already constructed building. Moreover, this information is aimed at homeowners who know how to work “with their own hands.”

The basis of the drainage system is a special pipe with perforated walls. Groundwater and precipitation seep into the pipe through the perforation. Therefore, a special system for removing excess moisture, laid under the sole or near the basement walls, is assembled from perforated pipes.

However, a drain pipe operates with 100 percent efficiency only under certain conditions, namely:

Firstly, it needs to be surrounded by soil with high moisture permeability (otherwise soil water will find “its” loophole into the basement).
Secondly, throughput channel pipes need to be protected from silting (after all, a pipe clogged with sand and glue simply will not be able to remove moisture).
Thirdly, the drainage pipe must be connected to a well or central sewer system (the excess moisture removed must be discharged somewhere or accumulated somewhere).

AND typical device drainage system is determined according to these recommendations.

Typical basement drainage arrangement

A typical drainage system is laid during the construction of a basement, with outside walls

In practice it looks like this:

Having finished pouring (or laying out of blocks) the walls, you need to expand the pit at the base (base plate) of the basement, tearing it off with a trench half a meter wide and the same depth.
Geotextiles are placed in this trench and crushed stone is filled. This is how the primary filter layer is formed, protecting against siltation.
The drainage pipe is laid on crushed stone, forming a two-centimeter height difference for each linear meter of the pipeline. Moreover, the pipe should “encircle” the perimeter of the basement and, with the help of a tee, “move” into the main line leading to drainage well.
After laying, the pipe is covered with crushed stone, filling the entire 50-centimeter trench to the level of the base of the basement base slab. The free edge of the geotextile is laid on top of the bedding.
After this, you can fill the space between the walls of the pit and the foundation with a special soil - a mixture of gravel and sand.

As a result, the crushed stone in the geotextile “stocking” will play the role of a filter, protecting the pipe from silting, and the sand-gravel mixture will ensure the transport of moisture to the drainage channel.

However, only very prudent homeowners do the basement drainage from the outside. Most owners take up drainage if water constantly accumulates in the basement, equipping internal system withdrawal

Drainage from the inside

Let's make a reservation right away: this technology arose out of despair. According to building regulations Only external drainage of underground structures is possible.

Therefore, the internal drainage of the basement is arranged differently than the external one, namely:

The first thing you need to do is drain the basement.
Next, it is necessary to increase the water repellency of the walls, using injection or impregnating waterproofing compounds for these purposes. Moreover, in the latter case, 100% drainage of the basement is not necessary - the walls may remain damp.
After this, a layer of crushed stone is added to the base slab, on top of which perforated pipes are laid, leading outside the basement walls to a drainage trench or well.
Next, horizontal insulation is laid on top of the bedding and concrete screed– new basement floor.

Of course, such technology will “steal” at least 30-40 centimeters of basement height. Therefore to internal work they start only out of despair, after several unsuccessful attempts to install reliable waterproofing.

How to make drainage in the basement with your own hands - an overview of the process

Below in the text we will consider the process of arranging an external drainage system for the basement, laid within the boundaries strip foundation Houses.

Such a soil moisture drainage system is formed as follows:

After dismantling the foundation formwork, its walls are impregnated with bitumen (moisture protection and adhesive) and covered with slab insulation.
After the moisture and thermal insulation has been formed, you can begin digging a drainage trench. To do this, you need to dig around the walls of the basement (foundation) around the perimeter, forming a ditch up to 50-70 centimeters deep (from the level of the base).
Next you need to choose a place for the drainage well. It is dug at a distance of 10-15 meters from the foundation. Moreover, the body of the well is strengthened casing pipes with a diameter of at least 300 millimeters and a depth of at least 4 meters.
The next step is to dig a trench for the main pipeline connecting the drainage trench and the catchment well.
After finishing earthworks Rolled geotextiles are laid on the bottom of the drainage trench, one edge extending onto the wall. This release will be used to wrap the bedding before filling the wall space with the selected soil.
Next, 10 centimeters of crushed stone are added to the bottom of the drainage and main trench and pipes are laid. Moreover, the pipes should lie on a slope, with a height difference of 2 centimeters for each linear meter pipeline length. And to ensure a slope, another 10-15 centimeters of crushed stone will have to be added (spotwise) into the trench. The slope of the main trench is formed using sand and gravel backfill.
The next step is to assemble the pipeline. It starts with a main line mounted from 150 mm pipes. The line ends with a tee with a transition from 150 to 100 millimeters. The ring drainage pipeline is assembled from a 100 mm perforated pipe. Corner connections are formed using a conventional bend (corner fitting).
Having completed the pipeline assembly, check the slope and, making sure that the pipes are positioned accurately, fill the drainage and main trenches. Moreover, the first is with crushed stone, and the second is with sand. After this, all that remains is to lay a geotextile release on top of the crushed stone bedding and you can begin to fill the foundation pit with selected soil or a mixture of sand and gravel.

Owners of private houses and summer cottages most often encounter water in the basement. This phenomenon not only makes it impossible to use basements for economic needs, but also has a detrimental effect on the entire structure. Flooding is often caused by groundwater - let's look at what measures should be taken to get rid of unnecessary liquid in the basement, and the reasons for its occurrence.

The closest aquifer to the earth's surface, usually found in loose, permeable rocks, is called groundwater. It is usually formed under the influence of precipitation and water ingress from surface water bodies.

The groundwater horizon is variable and depends on various factors.

The most common of them are the following:

amount of precipitation, melt water;
changes in bodies of water feeding groundwater;
technogenic human activity (hydroelectric power stations, canals and reservoirs, mining, industrial wastewater, etc.).

In groundwater there is a type called perched water - a liquid that accumulates in the upper water-unsaturated layer of soil above waterproof soils (clay, loam). It is this that accumulates in the lowlands, washes out roads and is most dependent on precipitation.

The ground layer of water, unlike the artesian layer, has no pressure. In addition, this water is usually unsuitable for drinking and is contaminated with various wastes, including man-made ones, and often has aggressive impurities.

Groundwater can be as aggressive as:

general acid;
leaching;
magnesia;
sulfate;
carbon dioxide.

All of them, to one degree or another, dissolve calcium carbonate and lead to the destruction of concrete.

Did you know? On Earth, 96% of water is in the oceans, approximately 1.5% is The groundwater, another 1.5% are made up of glaciers in Greenland and Antarctica. Moreover, the share fresh water only 2.5% - the vast majority of it is found in groundwater and glaciers.

What is the danger to the home?

High level water can negatively affect an existing structure:

Undesirable liquid, dampness and mold may appear in the basement, making it unsuitable for use;
aggressive impurities of groundwater destroy concrete, and the foundation may lose its bearing capacity;
The water that accumulates during the rainy season can wash away the paths on the site, wash away the walls, and spoil the green spaces.

A high groundwater level is considered to be above 2 meters in depth. But their occurrence below 2 meters is considered low and is welcomed by builders.

When building a house, you should always determine the groundwater level on the site. Geological exploration is the best way to deal with this. But if you do not want to use third-party services, then you can determine how far away the groundwater is by the level of liquid in the well on your site (or on a neighboring one).

Moreover, it is best to measure this level in the fall, during seasonal rains, or in the spring, when there is a lot of melted snow. When building an expensive cottage, it is still worth resorting to specialized services.

Did you know? The groundwater level that is too high for housing construction can also be determined by folk signs. It has long been noticed that reeds, horsetails, willows and alders grow in places where water layers are close to each other..

Groundwater in the basement and how to deal with it: video

Reasons for the appearance of water

Before you begin draining your basement, you should determine the cause of the water and eliminate it as quickly as possible. Only then can the flooded areas be drained.

Unwanted liquid may appear in the basement for various reasons:

nearby groundwater. This is the most common reason basement flooding;
accumulation of sediment after rain with a poorly established drainage system or its absence;
ingress of melt water. This situation often occurs when the building is insufficiently waterproofed and there is no drainage to remove accumulated sediment. This is often observed in lowlands and other places where liquid accumulates;
cracks in the foundation due to violations of construction technology;
burst of pipes located in the basement;
condensation due to poor ventilation.

How to remove water from the basement

If the basement is flooded, you can use following methods to eliminate it:

To pump out unwanted liquid once, you can use an inexpensive vibration pump. But it can be used if the scale of flooding is small. In this case, it is important to ensure that there is no debris in the water.
Pumping out water using a drainage pump. For this purpose, you can contact the appropriate company that provides liquid pumping services, or purchase a pump and decide this problem on our own.

The pumping method using a pump is considered more effective.

To independently remove excess liquid from the basement with a pump, you need to follow the following instructions:

A recess is made in the center of the basement and a plastic tank is installed, which plays the role of a storage tank. Holes are made in the body of such a tank;
the tank is wrapped in geotextile to protect it from flooding. Fine gravel is poured onto the bottom to install the pump;
then a drainage pump is placed in the tank prepared in this way. The gap between it and the pit is filled with a mixture of concrete. A float located in the pump determines the required water level, and the system automatically turns on the pump to pump out the liquid. After the pumping process, the system turns off;
To remove unnecessary liquid from the basement, a hose or special pipes are connected to such a system.

There are two types of pump for pumping - submersible and external. When choosing submersible pump it is placed in liquid medium, where he remains throughout the entire work. External pumps are mounted into the water with a casing in its lower part, while top part is on the surface.

Thus, wastewater is pumped out using the submersible part. To prevent basement flooding, appropriate measures must be taken to install a good drainage system.

What to do: how to prevent water penetration

In order to get rid of moisture entering the basement, there are various methods, depending mainly on the reason for its appearance.

The easiest method to eliminate the appearance Wastewater in the basement on your own - this is the arrangement of a pit. This method inexpensive in price and does not require much time, therefore it is often used in private homes and cottages.

To properly arrange the pit, you should take the following steps:

in the center of the basement, dig a cube-shaped hole approximately 1 m³ in volume. But it’s worth considering - the larger the room, the larger the hole is dug;
in the very middle of the dug hole, a recess is made in which a stainless steel bucket is placed. The earth around such a bucket is well compacted;
we line the dug hole with bricks, and then cover it with a cement layer of about 2-3 cm;
We place a metal grill on top. The gap between the rods should allow the pump to pump out the liquid;
dig small trenches in the pit and cover with tiles to form drains.

The joints between the tiles will perform the function of drainage.

Drainage for drainage

It's more complicated, but effective method to eliminate unwanted liquid from basements. It requires more material costs, and will also require more effort and time. It should be noted that there are several types of foundation drainage.

DIY drainage: video

The choice of a specific drainage system depends on the following points: terrain, depth of groundwater, soil, etc.

There are three main types of drainage systems, each of them has its own specifics:

Wall-mounted. Such drainage is installed for buildings with a basement or basement. Its installation occurs immediately after construction work on the foundation.
Plast. This system drainage is installed at the time of digging a pit for a facility under construction. It is used in slab construction, so it is used less often.
Trench (ring). You can install such a drainage system yourself. It is made in the form of a trench dug in a circle along the walls of the house.

Important! The trench system is considered the most effective. The ring drainage system must be located 0.4-0.5 m deeper than the foundation level.

To make drainage for drainage, you should follow these recommendations:

Along the walls of the house, we dig a trench in a circle, no less than 1 m 20 cm wide, using shovels or special equipment;
on 4 sides of the main ditch it is necessary to install additional bends approximately 5 m in length. You can also use special equipment for this purpose to speed up the process. At the end of such bends, a recess is dug, which should correspond in diameter to the concrete ring;
Geotextiles are placed along the bottom of the trench, and a corrugated pipe is laid on top for drainage. After 7 m, inspection wells are installed where the drainage pipe is interrupted;
after laying the pipe, the trench is filled with crushed stone, and 10 cm before the foundation - with sand, then there is a layer of coarse crushed stone, approximately 15 cm to the ground, and at the end it is filled with concrete on top.

Waterproofing

To protect your home from water in the basement, waterproofing is used. Waterproofing of basements is divided into two types - internal and external.

It is better to install external waterproofing during the construction of a house, because such a system for already constructed buildings requires much more labor and money.

In this case, you have to dig up the foundation and apply several layers of waterproofing, and then you will need to lay the soil in a circle near the outer walls in several layers - sand, crushed stone and pour concrete on top.

Usually, during such work, a circular drainage system is simultaneously installed, which also significantly increases their cost.

External waterproofing is carried out using two methods:

Pasting. It involves the use of rolled materials.
Coating. This method uses polymer materials, as well as bitumen mastic.

External waterproofing involves applying a coating to the prepared surface, and then laying rolled building material on top in several layers. Please note: when groundwater comes close enough to the foundation, additional protection is needed for waterproofing in the form of brickwork.

Sometimes, instead of such masonry, profile membranes with the addition of geotextiles are used. This method reliably protects walls from water. Special geotextile provides an empty space between the membrane spikes, which serves as a channel for drainage.

Important! For reliability, external waterproofing should be done 30 cm above ground level. To improve drainage before pouring concrete mixture It is advisable to also add a layer of clay.

External waterproofing can be installed with my own hands subject to the following order:

on external wall first, mastic is applied;
Roll material is laid on top of the mastic. You shouldn’t put too much pressure on the roll when laying it; the mastic will already secure the material. In order for the canvas to lie flat, you need to roll it with a roller;
then the next surface is treated with mastic and the next roll of material is applied. The overlap of the rolls on top of each other should be about 10 cm, so when applied to the wall roll material it is necessary to coat 15 cm from the edge with a special adhesive mixture;
Each applied canvas is rolled with a roller, including along the seams. The order in which the rolls are placed (starting from the bottom or from the top) does not matter;
Excess material at the joints can be removed with a knife.

Internal waterproofing is mainly made from special compounds, having a penetrating effect, which are best applied to fresh concrete. They protect well from moisture penetration: when they come into contact with the porous surface of concrete, interacting with water, they contribute to the formation of crystals that fill all microcracks.

Internal waterproofing can be done using polymer cement mineral compositions, which are applied to wooden, concrete and ceramic surfaces. Such compositions are simply diluted with water, and they are ready for use.

But it is worth considering that such waterproofing is not very resistant to changes temperature regime, so it is still necessary to use elastic sealants here.

In private homes, you can do the internal waterproofing of the basement with your own hands. Before this, the basement must be drained and all walls and floors must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt.

Then the following work is performed:

all surfaces are treated with a waterproofing compound that protects against moisture;
mastic is applied to corners, seams and cracks, as well as all surfaces with a layer of 2-3 cm;
a metal mesh is installed on the walls and floor;
the floor is poured with concrete, and the walls are also coated with concrete mixture;
then the walls are plastered (about 3 cm thick).

When unwanted moisture appears in your basement, you should first quickly determine the source of its appearance and then take corrective measures excess liquid and preventing its occurrence. If drainage communications and waterproofing of the basement are arranged in a timely and correct manner, then it will be dry even in the rainiest periods.

Seeing a whole lake in your basement is very unpleasant. If there is a lot of moisture, this means that there will be damp walls, furniture, and clothes. But in addition to these troubles, water in the basement can lead to the destruction of the foundation of the entire house. So what to do in this case? There is only one way out - this. But not everyone knows that similar systems can be mounted in interior spaces. This article will discuss how to make drainage in the basement.

What is needed to create

If the basements of your private house, garage or other buildings suffer from constant flooding, then the creation will be the most the best option way out of the current situation. But before you start work, you should make preparations.

The first step is to inspect the basement and prepare a plan for the future drainage system. To draw up a diagram you need to know some additional characteristics. Firstly, in order to calculate everything correctly, you need to find out the depth of groundwater. Secondly, it is advisable to know the properties of the soil under the house (or other structure).

Note! It is better to carry out all this research at the stage of planning the house itself. If the building has already been built, then it will be more difficult to find out the quality of the soil underneath it. To do this, you will have to drill wells up to five meters deep in the immediate vicinity of the foundation.

Also, at the preliminary stage, you should prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work. You may find it useful:

tools: level, shovel (bayonet and shovel), bucket or stretcher;
from materials: yourself drainage pipes, filter fabric (geotextile), gravel, sand.

If you want to make a more efficient and faster drainage system, you can consider installing a special pump in it. The drainage unit is capable of a short time pump out all the water from the basement. But it is worth remembering that such pumps cost money and require manual control (you will turn it on and off yourself). Therefore, it is better and cheaper to make a gravity drainage system.

Note! Even if there is a temporary power outage, the system will not work, since the pump cannot be turned on.

Work progress

After making a plan and preparing everyone necessary tools and materials, you can begin to create a water drainage system with your own hands. The internal basement drainage itself is not much different from the external one. Here, drains are also laid to a certain depth, which will remove water outside the basement. The difficulty is that all work will be carried out in interior spaces, where there may not always be enough free space.

The progress of the work itself will look like this:

Space for work is cleared. If the basement has flooring, then it needs to be dismantled. You should also remove all items or place them in a place where drainage pipes will not be laid.
Next, we carry out the markings according to the plan drawn up in advance.
The next step will be digging trenches. All work is carried out manually, using shovels. It is easier to carry out the excavated soil using buckets or, if there is a large door to the street, using a stretcher. If you intend to withdraw collected water beyond the perimeter of the basement, you should make a hole in the foundation. The fact is that trenches for drainage systems in basements are not made deeper than half a meter. This depth may not be enough to lay the pipe under the foundation without making a hole in it.
In some cases, it is more expedient not to remove the water collected by the drainage system beyond the perimeter, but to release it into the ground directly in the basement. In such a situation, you will have to manually dig an additional well. There is no point in making it too large and deep, because you have already gone deep into the ground (to the height of the basement).
Now you need to prepare the bottom of the trench for laying pipes. First of all, the soil is thoroughly compacted. If this is not done, then over time the soil will settle and the efficiency of the system will decrease. Next, a layer of geotextile or other filter material is laid. This measure is necessary to prevent small particles of silt from getting onto the surface of the drains. If you do not use a filter cloth, the system will quickly silt up.
Next, crushed stone is laid in a layer of 20 cm. At the same time, do not forget about the slope under which the drainage pipes should lie. It must be at least 3 mm per meter. The slope is made towards the exit of the system pipes from the basement or towards the location of the well.
After filling the layer of crushed stone and checking the slope, you can install the system itself. For drainage, special ones are most often used. plastic pipes. Fittings are also made from the same material, with the help of which all elements of the system are connected into a single whole. A layer of gravel is also poured over the pipes and the geofabric laid underneath is wrapped over the entire “pie”. After this, you can fill in the soil and lay the flooring.

Note! If the system has a drainage well, then you can purchase a ready-made plastic construction or lay it out yourself from available material. The main thing is that the well does not have a bottom (if the groundwater level allows). Such a device will facilitate the absorption of water by the soil.

You can also install a sealed container, but in this case you won’t be able to do without. It will be needed to pump out accumulated water in the well. But even in this case, you will need to take the pipe outside, otherwise there will be nowhere to pump out. In addition, installing a sealed container requires constant monitoring of its filling, so most owners country houses prefer a gravity drainage system.

Video

This video shows how to drill a well in a basement to drain drainage water:

This video is about installing a basement drainage system with a drainage pump: