Dry screed backfill height. How to make a dry floor screed: the necessary materials and tools to make a dry floor screed in an apartment with your own hands. Installation of dry floor sheet elements

Updated: 09/02/2019

To paraphrase a well-known saying, then when major renovation or building a house “the floor is the head of everything.” The condition of everything largely depends on how high-quality, airtight and smooth the floor in your living quarters is. interior design. One of the ways to create a perfectly smooth supporting surface In the apartment you need to dry-screed the floor with your own hands.

The installation of a floor screed is necessary to create a smooth and durable base for the finishing floor covering. At the same time, almost any type of coating can be placed on the screed - both laminate and linoleum. Construction of the screed is necessary even before laying tiles, otherwise you will need a large number of glue to level the surface.

Floor leveling technology can be divided into two large groups.

Wet screed- one of the most common methods. Consists of pouring onto the floor cement-sand mixture according to pre-set beacons. This technology is considered “dirty” and requires a lot of labor time.
Dry screed is a relatively new technology. Production modern materials made this process relatively quick and simple. In general terms, this technology consists of pouring dry granular material onto the subfloor, leveling it and then laying a durable sheet material.

This figure shows circuit diagram floor formed using the dry screed method. Its main elements are:

rough ceiling;
a layer of waterproofing (usually polyethylene is used);
a layer of bulk granular material (expanded clay);
connecting glue (for GVL sheets PVA is used);
screws for fastening floor elements;
prefabricated base of a leveled floor (usually gypsum fiber board sheets);
a layer of glue to fix the finish coating;
finishing floor covering;
baseboard fasteners;
decorative corner or baseboard;
edge tape.

Advantages of using dry screed technology

The following advantages of using dry screed technology to level the floor can be noted:

ease of installation, accessible for independent repetition;
the use of dry screed technology allows you to correct errors without much effort, while correcting shortcomings " wet screed"It is possible only with great difficulty;
It is simply impossible to remove incorrectly poured cement-sand mortar without the use of specialized tools; at the same time, you can disassemble and re-form a dry screed yourself using minimum set tools for one person;
dry screed can be built gradually, meter by meter.
the formed screed from the cement-sand mixture reaches working condition in at least three weeks and only after complete hardening can you begin installation of the finishing flooring, and when using dry screed technology, start laying laminate or linoleum on the same day;
a screed formed using dry technology has higher thermal insulation rates, which is caused by the presence of air pockets between the granular mixture;
the high degree of thermal insulation of floors on dry screed allows them to be used when forming floors for rooms located above unheated rooms, when insulating loggias or balconies;
In addition to thermal insulation, dry screed also has excellent soundproofing properties (in addition to air spaces in the bulk backfill increased level Sound insulation is also facilitated by an edge tape made of foamed polyethylene, which is laid along the perimeter of the room and perfectly damps sound waves).

Calculation of the cost of dry screed. Necessary materials

We will calculate the necessary building materials needed to install a floor with a dry screed in a room of 100 m2.

In order to build a leveled floor for finishing we will need:

metal profile – about 100 linear meters;
expanded clay - 4 cubic meters;
leveled floor slabs - gypsum fiber board sheet with an area of 100 m2, plus about 20% for cutting;
polyethylene film for moisture insulation (with allowance for walls) - about 150 m2;
self-tapping screws – 1200 pieces;
glue (regular construction PVA) – 5 kg.

At current prices, the total estimate for the purchase of building materials will be about 45 thousand rubles.

To form the coating, you can use both single sheets of gypsum fiber board and double sheets prepared in advance in production. Such sheets are glued with a slight offset relative to each other so that a protrusion is formed along the edge to form a lock. The procedure for laying such sheets is similar to laying laminate flooring.

Before you start leveling the floor using dry screed technology, complete everything electric installation work, carry out all the necessary engineering Communication. Gaps and holes between the subfloor and walls can be sealed cement-sand mortar.

Self-leveling technology using dry screed technology

Leveling the floor using dry screed technology is quite simple to repeat even by people with minimal technological skills. Five operations must be performed sequentially.

Surface preparation

When carrying out renovations in a house with old flooring, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old finishing flooring. If it is placed on a wooden floor and on joists, dismantle them too. It is especially important to get to the concrete floor slabs in houses built using panel technology, since the quality of their installation left much to be desired. After sealing the cracks, clean the floor surface.

Laying the waterproofing layer

To prevent moisture from penetrating through the floor covering, a layer of vapor and moisture insulation is laid under the base of the dry screed on the floor. You can use plastic film or glassine. To improve insulation, the layers of film should overlap each other by about 15 centimeters. Insulating film should extend onto the walls at least to the height of the future dry screed.

A polyethylene film with a thickness of about 250 microns can be laid on concrete floors. If you are leveling a wooden floor using a dry screed, then use bitumen-impregnated paper or glassine as an insulating layer. Similar materials are also commercially available under different trade names.

The absence of a vapor and moisture insulation layer can lead to moisture penetration between rooms, which negatively affects the creation of comfortable conditions.

Placement of sound insulation along the perimeter of the walls

Sound in residential areas is usually transmitted through hard objects. In order to prevent the spread of extraneous sounds, it is necessary to create a soundproofing layer around the perimeter of the walls. To create it, a tape made of mineral or glass wool or polyethylene foam is used. The thickness of the soundproofing layer should be about 1 centimeter.

The soundproofing layer performs another function. It prevents the leveled floor sheets from swelling due to thermal expansion.

Laying loose granular material

To create a heat-insulating leveling layer, a homogeneous granular material is used. Typically, a material of inorganic origin is used in this capacity - expanded clay or fine-grained slag. Sand with a fine fraction can also be used as insulation.

Before filling in the insulation, it is necessary to determine the horizontal upper level of the new floor. For this, a laser level is used, which projects a laser beam onto the walls of the room. The height of the insulating layer is usually at least 3 centimeters from the highest point of the floor.

After marking, they begin to install beacons from metal profile, which is placed in parallel rows at a distance of a meter from each other. The position of the beacons () relative to the floor is adjusted using small piles of cement-sand mixture and wooden pegs. You can control the level of the exposed beacons using a thin cord stretched from wall to wall along the level-checked marks.

To level the layer bulk material The rule used is a long piece of durable metal profile. It is laid on beacons near the wall and then moved towards the exit from the room, moving excess insulation.

If you do not need additional floor insulation and smoothing out unevenness (for example, in new buildings on an existing screed), then sheets of expanded polystyrene foam can be laid directly on the ceiling, the waste of which can be added to the bulk material to increase thermal insulation.

Laying floor sheets

When the height of the bulk material reaches the upper level of the beacons, you can begin laying the sheet material. There is quite a wide range of products on sale that can be used. Some of them even have an additional polystyrene foam insulating layer.

For laying the subfloor, you can also use chipboards with tongue and groove and moisture-resistant gypsum fiber. The use of asbestos-cement boards and waterproof plywood is also allowed.

Subfloor slabs are laid end to end. Gaps between the plates should be left only if the material has a tendency to thermal expansion. The specific gap size can be calculated from the technical characteristics of the sheets. So, if a material can expand 1 millimeter per 1 linear meter, then between 2-meter slabs you need to leave at least 2 millimeters of gap.

Subfloor slabs can be laid in one or two layers. When laying in multiple layers, the sheets are fastened together with glue or self-tapping screws, which must have a countersunk head and, if necessary, the places where they are planted must be puttied.

The technology of forming a flat floor using “dry screed” is quite accessible for independent repetition. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to quickly “rollback”, that is, correct mistakes. A floor laid using this technology can withstand the same loads as one formed using “wet technology”.

You can learn more about the technology of dry screeding floors in the training video.

Let's try to tell you in detail about the method of screeding the floor according to German technology Knauf. What is a precast floor and why is it prefabricated? What is it assembled from and how do these prefabricated components interact with each other? We will try to clearly show all stages of assembly of this device, let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages.

First, let's list all the materials that are needed for installation:

Dry backfill (KOMPEVIT)
Floor element (1200*600*20 mm)
Edge tape
PET film
Screws for gypsum fiber boards
Putty "Fügenfüller"*
Waterproofing "Flachendicht"*

*used if necessary

We are pursuing the goal of making our floor smooth and warm, we want it not to take much time to screed the floor and, finally, for the floor to be beautiful.

It’s time to get started, and you and I will have to borrow their technology from our colleagues from Germany, because it probably won’t be possible to do what we want in any other way.

First, let's prepare the surface for installation, and to do this, remove all the debris using a broom and dustpan. If we have an old one wooden screed or something similar, then it needs to be dismantled. We will check for cracks between the floors and, if necessary, repair them cement mortar.

Let's start measuring the room. For this we need a laser level or a hydraulic level. We make a mark at an arbitrary height, just through this mark an arbitrary horizon line will go along the entire perimeter of the room. From this line we measure the distances to the floor and mark them on technological map(the more tags, the better). We get the following picture: 1 m 25 cm 6 mm, 1 m 26 cm 8 mm, 1 m 24 cm 3 mm... 1 m 23 cm 9 mm. Thus we get the highest point of 1 m 23 cm 9 mm and the lowest point of 1 m 26 cm 8 mm.

From the resulting mark of 1 m 23 cm 9 mm, subtract 1.5 centimeters. Why do we subtract? As the floor level rises, the distance to the horizon line decreases accordingly. According to Knauf dry floor technology, the minimum layer of dry backfill is 1.5 cm, that is, at the highest point the height of the backfill will be 1.5 cm, and at the lowest point (based on our calculations) it will be 4 cm 4 mm. This is the simplest method; it is used if you just want to level the floor. For clarity, we will use it. If you are planning to make a certain level, then a measurement is made from the specified level to the horizon line, and this distance is set aside from the line, after which the height of the dry backfill is measured.

As has already become clear, dry backfill is a leveling layer that has good heat and soundproofing qualities. Below we provide tabular data. In other words, dry backfill is small pebbles of a certain fraction up to 5 mm; such backfill is considered an environmentally friendly building material, which is important.

So, you and I have the sizes. Now we begin to calculate the amount of dry backfill per available area. Exactly 1 bag (50 liters, 30 kg) is poured out per 1 m2 with a backfill height of 5 cm. Now let's start installing the screed. For this we need PET film and edge tape. What are these components for? A dry screed is called “dry” because there is no moisture in it, and further penetration is simply unacceptable. The film serves as a vapor barrier and is laid on the ceiling under dry backfill, thereby preventing moisture from entering our structure. The edge tape is made of foamed polyethylene. It is laid around the perimeter of the room and serves both for sound insulation and for the formation of an expansion joint so that our screed “walks” along with the building structure.

We begin to lay the film over the walls so that the film is above the level of the dry backfill. If whole piece There is not enough film, then we take a second one and lay it on top of the first one with an overlap of at least 25 cm. We lay an edge strip along the perimeter of the room, namely along the walls. So that it does not interfere and does not fall, we sprinkle it with backfill and compact it. We pour the bags of backfill over the entire area of the room to an approximate level. Using guide rails and rules, we pull the backfill to the level we need. We have finished surface for laying floor elements. The principle of laying the elements is shown in Fig. 2.

We lay it so that there is a gap between the sheets in adjacent rows and is at least 25 cm. When laying, we glue the folds of the sheets together and connect them with gypsum plasterboard screws in increments of 25 cm. It is necessary to twist under the weight of its own weight.

The floor is ready. Now we need to decide what kind of flooring we will lay. If it’s laminate, then just sweep and start laying; if it’s linoleum, you need to putty all the seams; if it’s a bathroom, apply waterproofing to the surface.

If you decide to make a dry screed yourself, our material will help with this. However, we recommend that you still contact specialists.

In our organization, floor installation is carried out by qualified and experienced specialists, indigenous residents of the capital and the near Moscow region. We offer the full range of services that TIGI-KNAUF technology includes and ensure the highest quality of work performed. “A range of services in the shortest possible time” is our motto. We will take into account all your wishes, give competent advice and provide a guarantee for the work performed.

As we promised earlier, we present a table with technical characteristics of our gender.

Dry floor screed is a relatively simple and effective technology for leveling the floor under the finishing coating. What you might be interested in this method? First of all, for its versatility and “purity”. Next you can highlight low cost(comparable to the traditional type of screed), ease of installation and speed of execution. The low weight of the dry cake is also important if there are load restrictions on the floors.

This review discusses in detail: dry screed technology, basic recommendations for its design and necessary materials and tools for work.

Dry screed - the essence of the method

To understand how dry screed differs from traditional “liquid” and semi-dry screed, let’s briefly consider their components and construction method:

Regular and has water, sand, cement and plasticizers. The prepared solution is evenly distributed over the prepared surface and, if a semi-dry composition is used, rubbed down. The complexity of manufacturing such a floor is high. In addition, further use of the coating is possible after several days.
Dry screed is less labor intensive. Sheet materials (gypsum fiber board, chipboard or plywood) are laid on the prepared base. Multilayer structures are glued and fastened with self-tapping screws. This floor can be immediately used for further finishing.

A dilemma may arise when analyzing material costs. If the speed of installation does not matter to you, and all the work will be done by yourself, then a traditional screed will be a cheaper option.

To complete the picture and help in acceptance optimal solution When installing a floor, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the main advantages and disadvantages of the dry method.

Pros and cons of dry screed

Any construction material or the technology has certain advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider the positive and negative sides dry screeds:

Advantages of dry screed

Disadvantages of dry screed

During installation, less dirt is generated and there is no likelihood of flooding of the lower floors (relevant for liquid screed). The absence of “wet” processes also reduces process interruptions.
TO finishing You can start laying the floor immediately after installing the dry screed.
The gypsum fiber material used in the construction is capable of supporting optimal humidity indoor air and has high fire safety ratings.
The lightness of the dry structure minimizes the load on and allows the use of this type of screed in houses with a wooden subfloor.
The use of dry screed can improve the thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics of the floor.

In total, materials for dry floor screed will cost more. After all, in fact, for a traditional screed you only need cement and sand. And they have very reasonable price. A more expensive option is a ready-made mixture for screeding and leveling.
Next significant drawback– minimal resistance to moisture. When abundantly moistened, surfaces made of gypsum fiber board, OSB or plywood swell and warp.

Materials and tools for dry floor screed

The role of materials and tools when carrying out any construction work great. Trying to save money or experiment, you will end up with a floor that is not best quality. At the same time, the installation process will be delayed due to unnecessary manipulations and adjustments. Accordingly, so that the work goes well and the mood is not spoiled, choose only those materials and tools that are recommended for dry screed.

Let's start with the materials and consider them in order (from top to bottom):

Sheet materials: GVL (gypsum fiber sheet), plywood, OSB, chipboard. Let's take a closer look at GVL. For dry floors, small-format sheets measuring 1.5 × 1 m and 10 mm thick are produced. It is very convenient to work with such material, which cannot be said about the standard format of sheets with a width of 1.2 meters and a length of 2.5 meters or more (such sheets are very heavy). When purchasing sheet material, remember that the structure will consist of two connected layers. Therefore, to calculate the amount of GVL, multiply the area of the room by two. Also on sale are gypsum fiber floor elements - glued panels with a protrusion (rebate) and a recess. This option is the most acceptable due to ease of installation. During the joining process, the elements must be glued together. Additional fixation is made with special self-tapping screws.
The next piece of the pie is the insulator. It is necessary for thermal insulation and sound insulation. There are three types of heat insulators: Backfill - expanded clay, sand, fine-grained slag. They have low heat-protective properties and are not expensive. has good heat-protective properties, does not rot, and practically does not absorb moisture. Disadvantages: high price and flammability. High-density fibrous materials - mineral (basalt) wool. This insulation fireproof, but, unlike expanded polystyrene, it wears out faster and retains heat less well.
It is recommended to use overlapping polyethylene film as a waterproofing layer on a concrete base. The edges of the film must be raised above the insulation layer to fully protect the heat insulator. On wooden bases, instead of plastic film, bitumen or paraffin paper is laid. Such materials insulate the layers and allow the wood to breathe.
An edge (damper) tape is attached around the perimeter of the room. It serves as additional sound insulation and creates an expansion joint during cyclic expansion of materials.

During the work you will need the following tools and devices:

Level and rule for controlling the plane and preparing the insulating layer.
When using dry backfill, for the correct formation of the layer, it will be necessary to install beacons (pipes, profiles or factory beacons) on the solution.
Tape measure, stationery knife, marker (pencil) - for cutting sheets of gypsum fiber board, EPS or mineral wool.
Screwdriver and screws for connecting floor elements.
A spatula and brush are useful for applying glue to gypsum fiber board sheets.

Preparing the base for the screed

The first thing you need to do before starting installation is to prepare the base of the floor. This stage includes dismantling the old floor covering and removing uneven surfaces and construction debris from the concrete (wooden) surface.

The concrete floor must be examined for cracks, potholes and other defects. All gaps, holes and large cracks between the floor and walls must be sealed with a mortar of grade M 150 (and higher). When using ready-made mixtures, pay attention to their name - the mixture must be masonry or assembly.

After filling the uneven areas and completely drying the areas with cement mortar, the surface is carefully swept for further installation of hydraulic insulating material.

Dry screed waterproofing device

Considering that concrete slabs or wooden floors are not able to fully resist the penetration of moisture from the underlying premises, the only means of protecting the dry screed cake from dampness is insulation protective films and roll materials.

It is recommended to use polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm or more as a waterproofing material on concrete bases.

Waterproofing dry screed

The film must be laid in strips with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The film must go onto the wall. To further seal the layer, the strips at the joints can be glued with adhesive tape (scotch tape).

In the case of a wooden base, it is better to replace the plastic film with a more breathable material. The best option there will be bitumen or paraffin paper.

After laying the film (glassine) around the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is installed. The main purpose of this strip is to compensate for the thermal expansion of dry screed elements. Also, the damper tape will partially perform a soundproofing function, absorbing noise from the floor to the walls.

Backfilling (laying) of insulator

Depending on the required heat and sound insulation parameters, an underlying layer is created from fine-grained expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or a combination of the materials considered.

It is worth noting that when using polystyrene foam or mineral wool as an insulator, the base must be ideal in plane and level. If there are significant differences and unevenness, it is recommended to first level the base with a backfill insulator (sand, expanded clay).

When using expanded clay as the main insulator for a dry screed, you should consider:

The minimum backfill thickness is 20 mm.
The maximum thickness depends on the specific floor design.
The use of coarse expanded clay is not permissible. It significantly reduces the area of contact with the top sheet material, which in turn can lead to pushing and deformation of the gypsum fiber sheets.
Leveling the backfill layer is impossible without installing beacons.

The beacon installation process includes the following steps:

Determination of the upper backfill level.
Using a level (preferably a laser), marking lines on the walls around the perimeter of the room.
Focusing on these lines using a large rule, you need to place beacons on the solution. The process is controlled by the level.
The pitch of the beacons should be 20 - 30 cm less than the length of the rule used. For example, if the width of the room is 2.5 meters, and the two-meter rule is used for work, then you can get by with two beacons located at a distance of 1.7 meters from the walls.

You can completely abandon traditional lighthouses. However, for an unprepared person, alternative methods may seem complicated.

Beacons from the rules for dry screed

Let's consider one of the ways:

We begin to pour expanded clay along one of the walls.
Using a long rule (2 -2.5 meters) inverted flat, we form a plane along the line marked on the wall. We leave the rule on this plane and additionally check the level.
We form the next strip - an expanded clay beacon - after 1 - 1.5 meters (depending on the working rule) and also lay a long rule on it.
The space between the beacons is gradually filled with expanded clay and leveled using a short working rule.
The short rule is that the fry additionally needs to cut out notches. The depth of the excavation should be equal to the thickness of the expanded clay rule laid flat on the beacon.

Installation of sheet material

After filling the expanded clay or laying another insulator, you can proceed to the last stage of installing a dry screed. Let's look at the main features and recommendations.

Installation of dry screed elements

Laying gypsum fiber sheets should begin from the doorway into the room. To ensure a reliable connection between the layers, glue is applied to the bottom gypsum fiber sheet. Upper layer GVL is laid with provision of ligation of seams. Excess glue protruding from the seams must be removed with a spatula.

The top and bottom layers of sheets are fastened together with special screws (self-tapping screws) for gypsum fiber boards with an anti-corrosion coating.

After installing all the sheets of dry screed, all excess damper tape and film must be cut off, and the junction of the floor and the walls must be filled with sealant.

Dry screed Knauf

Knauf dry flooring consists of gypsum fiber slabs (floor element) 2 centimeters thick and a ready-made backfill of expanded clay chips (fraction size 1-4 millimeters). Double gypsum plasterboards with a seam connection simplify installation and allow you to produce a floor that matches all modern requirements strength and safety.

The main advantages of using double Knauf sheets for screeding:

Due to its low weight, the dry screed design is applicable in multi-storey buildings without additional reinforcement of the floors.
This floor has maximum acoustic and thermal insulation.
The Knauf screed is quickly and easily installed.
The strength of the structure reaches 500 kilograms per square meter.
Laying the floor covering can be done immediately after installing the dry floor.
There are no wet processes.
Expanded clay and Knauf floor elements are environmentally friendly and fireproof materials.

Video on the topic

It's no secret that the floor must be smooth and of high quality. It is not recommended to save at this stage of repair; it is better to approach this issue carefully and choose good materials and follow the installation technology. Otherwise, the floor will not last long. Nowadays, the simplest, fastest and not very expensive way to level the floor is considered to be a dry screed, which has its own advantages and disadvantages. And in order to understand how to make a dry floor screed correctly, you need to study all the nuances of installation.

Dry floor screed is increasingly being used for leveling. This technology is a good solution for those who like to do their own repairs. In this process, it is important to divide the installation into stages. The first thing you need is waterproofing, which is polyethylene film. This is followed by backfilling with a thick layer of expanded clay for thermal insulation and leveling. Then you can lay sheets of durable material.

This is what dry floor screed is all about. It is performed both on a concrete base and on joists.

To evaluate this leveling technology, it is necessary to consider the pros and cons of this process.
No dirt. Dry screed eliminates wet processes.
Using the surface immediately after installation. This makes dry screed very convenient. Plus it saves valuable time.
Dry flooring can be done at any time of the year.
Light weight structure. This is especially important for older buildings that cannot withstand additional loads.
The presence of hydro-, sound- and thermal insulation.
Possibility of correcting the result.
Laying all kinds of communications is carried out without any problems. These can be cables or film electric heaters.

Despite whole line advantages, dry screed also has one significant disadvantage - vulnerability due to high humidity. That is why, at the stage of creating a flat floor, you should pay attention to waterproofing; it must be of high quality. Good waterproofing eliminates this disadvantage of dry screed. Otherwise, the floor may swell.

Polyethylene film is used to waterproof dry screeds.

When choosing a dry screed, you should consider some features and nuances:

Season;
Timing;
Financial opportunities;
Features of the subfloor.

A short video on the durability and reliability of this method of floor leveling:

Material and tools

Before starting repair work, you should purchase all necessary tools and materials:

Metal profiles for fixing beacons;
Film for waterproofing;
Damper tape;
Expanded clay;
Durable gypsum fiber sheets;
Glue and screws;
Screws;
Level;
Typically a pencil.

To optimize the consumption of materials, it is worth correctly calculating the size of the room and the thickness of the layer. To calculate the number of sheets, divide by the area of the sheet. If the floor of the room does not have the shape of a square or rectangle, then complex figure is divided into simpler ones and they are measured separately.

Dry screed diagram. During installation you will also need glue and fasteners for gypsum fiber sheets

Polyethylene film is purchased with a reserve, since it is laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm, and the bend along the entire perimeter should be about 10 cm. The amount of expanded clay, slag or sand required is also calculated. Their consumption directly depends on the size of the backfill layer, so it is important to choose its optimal thickness. It's better to take the average value.

No kind repair work cannot do without preparatory moments. After all the calculations and acquisition the required material You can begin preparing the subfloor. In residential premises, the old floor is dismantled, the screed is broken to concrete slab. The slab is carefully inspected for various defects that must be eliminated. All cracks and chips are sealed with cement-sand mortar. Ready-made plaster is also ideal. Once the solution is completely dry, the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust.

Waterproofing material is laid on a clean base. It is imperative to ensure that the film covers the entire surface of the floor and part of the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. The film overlap on the walls corresponds to the level of the dry screed. The film strips are fixed together using construction tape. This creates protection against humid air from the lower floor, because vapors penetrate even through concrete slabs.

Next, a damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the room directly onto the film. It is very easy to glue, since it is self-adhesive on one side. It is enough to remove the protective layer and glue it. The tape, as it were, restrains the deformation of the dry screed and prevents the sheets from touching the walls. This makes it possible to avoid kinks and squeaks, which are very difficult to get rid of.

During the installation of dry screed on the balcony. The photo shows waterproofing in the form of a film with an overlap on the walls and a damper tape

Now you can start setting up beacons using a laser level. A self-tapping screw is screwed in from the corner of the room. The distance from the screw to the corner is 50 cm. A rule is established on the screw, on which a mark is made with a pencil in the place of the light line. In the opposite corner, at the same distance, another self-tapping screw is screwed in and the same rule is set. The main thing is that the light line created laser level, completely coincided with the mark. Otherwise, you will have to either screw the screw in harder, or, conversely, unscrew it a little until the line matches the mark.

The same must be done with the other two corners. Or you can, and this will be easier, stretch a thread between the two outer fasteners and screw in the screws at the level of this thread. Next, you need to check the horizontal position and you can begin fixing the beacon. It is fixed with cement or gypsum mortar on both sides.

Leveling the backfill layer using the rule

Backfilling can be done with expanded clay, slag or special backfill. If the choice fell on expanded clay, then you need to pay attention to the fact that the granules are not very large for greater uniformity. The thickness of such a layer should be at least 30 mm. For convenience, backfilling should be done in parts. Each portion of expanded clay is laid out at the level of the beacons. Some people first do a full backfill on the entire floor, and then level it along the beacons.

It is worth paying attention to some features of laying sheets of durable material:

When using gypsum fiber sheets, installation in two layers is recommended. They are connected to each other with glue and self-tapping screws;
and more than 12 mm thick are laid in one layer. This material must be coated with a protective solution. As protection, bitumen-based mastic or hot drying oil is suitable;
When laying, the sheets are pressed against each other as tightly as possible. The gaps are closed with putty;

Fastening of gypsum fiber sheets

If backfilling is done in parts, then installation should begin from the corner farthest from the entrance. And when completely filled with expanded clay, installation begins from the front door;
After the installation of the sheets is completed, the polyethylene film is carefully trimmed along the edges of the damper tape.

Comparing dry and concrete screeds, we can firmly say that dry-pressed floor screed is produced much faster and does not require mixing concrete. Plus, leveling the dry mixture is always faster. But this is only in theory, since dry screed also includes a bunch of small moments that also take time, for example, screwing in screws or applying glue. And installation of sheets requires accuracy, which cannot be done with great speed.

Comparison of two screed technologies

Having examined the technology of leveling with a dry screed, we can say that installation is not as simple as it seemed at first glance. And it has its downsides. You will have to be patient and attentive. It takes professionals one day to install a dry screed floor, and even less if desired. It all depends on experience. But if it is planned self-installation, the amount of time spent is unpredictable. Everyone has their own pace of work and level of skills and abilities. Moreover, there are rooms different sizes, and the floors are of varying complexity. And finally, a video of dry screed installation and an approximate cost estimate:

To obtain a flat surface, screed the floor: dry or wet. Each option has its advantages, but also many disadvantages. Traditionally, many craftsmen prefer the “wet” method, which involves pouring a semi-liquid mixture. Its disadvantages include labor intensity, a large amount of dirt, and it will take at least 2-3 weeks to dry. The cement layer creates additional load on the floor.

An excellent alternative to the “wet” method is the “dry” method. It allows you to obtain with less time and effort perfect base. In the future, it can be used for laying parquet, linoleum, carpet, and tiles. This technology is becoming increasingly popular. Doing a dry floor screed with your own hands is not difficult.

The name “dry floor screed” indicates that no water is used in its implementation. The classic “wet” version involves the use of a semi-liquid mixture of sand, cement and water. Due to the force of gravity, which forces the liquid to be evenly distributed over the volume it occupies, a perfectly flat surface is ensured. It would seem that you could come up with something better? However, specialists managed to create a fundamental new technology, the implementation of which is accessible to the average person.

The floor, made on the basis of dry screed, is a multi-layer structure. The first layer is dry backfill, then gypsum fiber sheets(GVL). This dry-pressed floor screed creates excellent sound insulation and retains heat well. It will take no more than 2 days to create it, depending on the volume of work. The only limitation for doing dry floor screed with your own hands is wet rooms. Absorbing moisture from the air, expanded clay or other filler loses its shape and swells. As a result, the floor is no longer level and the finish is deformed.

Manufacturers offer several options for dry mix for floor screed. They differ in the complexity of preparation and purpose. They are selected taking into account the characteristics of the base:

Alpha - suitable for smooth floors;
Beta - for level base, covered with a layer of porous or soundproofing material;
Vega - laid on a leveling, soundproofing layer;
Gamma - intended for laying on a leveling layer of backfill, after laying thermal insulation materials with a layer of gypsum boards.

The finished screed somewhat resembles layered cake. It can be laid on concrete and even wooden base. You can safely lay communications inside it. It is perfect for installing heated floors and has a positive effect on its energy efficiency.

Dry floor screed technology

Before starting work directly, you will need to prepare materials: waterproofing film, expanded clay, gypsum fiber board, profiles for beacons. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws and are additionally fixed. construction glue. Dry floor screed is carried out in stages.

Preparatory stage. The arrangement of the floor begins after completion of the installation of plumbing, adjustment of pipes, electrical networks, and completion of other work. Before laying a new coating, old materials should be removed. Then level the base, seal cracks, protrusions, and chips with cement mixture. When the “dirty” stage has been completed, you need to carefully sweep away the resulting debris and collect dust. Mark the height of the screed on the walls.

Stage two - laying insulation. Dry floor screed technology involves installing a waterproofing layer made of polyethylene or glassine. It is better to use the whole canvas. If laying is carried out in pieces, they should overlap each other with an overlap of at least 20 cm. The film is placed on the wall to the floor level (minimum 6 cm). Insulation is selected taking into account the characteristics of the ceiling:

concrete - take polyethylene with a thickness of 200-250 microns;
wood - it is better to use glassine or moisture-proofing paper impregnated with bitumen.

The purpose of the moisture-proofing layer is to protect the backfill from swelling when absorbing water or steam.

When performing dry floor screed with your own hands, you should not forget about sound insulation. It is made of glass wool, polypropylene foam or mineral wool, gluing tape around the perimeter of the walls. Such a strip will protect against extraneous noise; it prevents the floor from deforming due to thermal expansion.

Stage three – placing beacons. Without using devices, it is simply impossible to lay the bulk mixture evenly. There is no point in hoping that you will be able to level it later: every pass on the viscous base leaves footprints. No complex equipment is needed, profiles are enough U-shaped. They are turned upward with a sharp edge, leveled, and secured with self-tapping screws. Expanded clay will then be poured between them.

The main stage is arranging the floor. First of all, pour the mixture, trying to create a homogeneous layer. It is made from expanded clay, fine-grained slag, quartz sand or purchase ready mixture. The amount of backfill is determined by the unevenness of the floor. The thickness of the layer on average reaches 4 cm, it is not recommended to make it more than 6 cm. Sheets are laid on the prepared floor and secured to each other. The sheet should not be pressed into the sand, nor should it be moved. Laying of gypsum fiber boards on the backfilled surface begins from the door. If the sheets go on top of the insulating material, they move from the opposite wall to the door.

Sheet material is laid offset (like bricks) to provide strength and stability to the floor.

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws along the perimeter, placing them every 15-20 cm. Additionally, the sheets can be secured with glue. Irregularities are sealed with putty, then sanded. The surface of the sheets is covered with bitumen insulation. Now you can start finishing. Although it is better to give the floor 2-3 days to “rest.”

Advantages and disadvantages

Dry floor screed has earned its popularity due to its many inherent advantages. The main thing is that it does not need to be dried. After installation is completed, you do not have to wait 45 days, as is the case with concrete base. The very next day you can lay linoleum, lay tiles or lay parquet board. Another important advantage is the low weight of the coating. The additional load it creates on the floor is minimal. The time it will take to complete it depends only on the area of the room and the efficiency of the performer. This layered “pie” improves sound and thermal insulation.

To complete the picture, it is necessary to note the disadvantages of dry floor screed. There are few of them, but they exist. This coating is not recommended for unheated premises, bathrooms, showers. A traditional or semi-dry screed is suitable for them. Having understood the pros and cons, you can safely get to work. This option is ideal for residential premises. Its minor shortcomings are more than compensated for by the simplicity and efficiency of installation. Even one person can do it. Only when laying GVL is better use the help of another person, since it is inconvenient to cope with them alone.

How to make a dry floor screed

When starting a repair, each master decides the question: what can be done independently, and what work will require the involvement of specialists? Dry floor screeding is completely doable with your own hands. The technology is simple and does not require the use of complex equipment. If you carefully study the order of execution, there will be no difficulties. Here it is important to adhere to the accepted rules and use materials recommended for dry floor screed.

A common mistake made by craftsmen is to neglect the installation of damper tape. Its absence will make itself felt immediately after the floor begins to be used: creaks and sounds will prevent you from enjoying the new renovation. The tape can be glued to PVA, double-sided tape, or secured directly to polyethylene with a stapler.

Another important question: what to choose as backfill? There is no strict requirement - sand, expanded clay or slag. These materials have similar characteristics: they do not burn, retain heat, and do not shrink. The thickness of the layer should be at least 3, but not more than 6 cm. If the floor is flat, you can do without it altogether. Then, instead of backfill, slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are used.

When starting to install a dry floor screed made from gypsum fiber board sheets, it is important to avoid directly walking on the backfill. Therefore, the sheets begin to be placed immediately from the door. When one sheet is laid, the floor still “moves” under your feet. There is no need to be upset: each subsequent sheet gives the structure the required stability.

Installation work can be carried out at any time of the year. The main thing is to follow the technology exactly, laying out “layers” of waterproofing film, a leveling layer, surrounded by a damper tape, and sheet material as the basis for the finishing coating.