Construction of a panel garage from OSB with your own hands. Garage interior decoration Suspended metal frame

Arrangement of a garage and its insulation requires compliance with several recommendations, since this room is most often exposed to the adverse effects of temperature changes. For example, the whitewash on a garage ceiling can peel off and crumble due to humidity. Therefore, first you need to decide what material can be used to cover the ceiling in the garage so that the work does not take a lot of time and effort. The cost of materials is also taken into account for covering ceiling surface garage. Of course, thanks to the diversity building materials, choosing the most suitable one is not difficult. Let's say good option can be suspended ceiling. But for more reliable finish For the ceiling in the garage, we recommend using OSB board, the average thickness of which is 6 or 8 mm.

Why is it better to decorate the ceiling in a garage with this material?

Check out the benefits of this type of finish below.

The high strength of the slabs will allow them not to sag.

There is no need for installation for installation large quantity bearing.
High moisture resistance is noted OSB boards, which do not fall apart when exposed to moisture.
Thanks to the woody shade of the slabs, the sufficient aesthetics of the material is noticeable, which can be sheathed without subsequent painting.

Stages of installation of OSB boards

The ceiling in the garage is covered with a principle similar to that of the roof. At the first stage, crossbars are installed across the garage, to which ceiling panels are subsequently attached. If the width of the room is 4-5 meters, then load-bearing structure the load will not be small. Having a future attic will require you to ensure that your structure is sufficiently strong. And therefore, for load-bearing crossbars it is better to use those placed on the ribs bars 100x50.

They are attached to the walls using homemade brackets, which can be cut from corners made on a metal basis - 70x70. The sections must be cut 120-150mm in length. We make 11mm holes in one shelf, and 7mm in the second. This is where you need to make a secret hole from the outside. We will attach the corner to the wall with the first shelf, and the beam to the second, using furniture confirmation, which can be replaced with a thick screw.

The length of the beams must be adjusted to the dimensions of the installation site. To ensure that the slabs fit tightly to the beams, notches are made at the bottom edges of the latter. It is in them that the corners of the brackets need to be “recessed”. Standard size OSB boards - 2.5mx1.25m. This means that almost two sheets can be installed across the length of the garage, taking into account the cutouts to accommodate uneven walls. Keep in mind that the distance between the outermost supports must be precise, since this is where the edges of the two sheets meet. They should be placed centered on the center line beams. That is, each sheet must be installed on three beams - one will go in the middle of the sheet, two - along the edges at a distance of 60 cm from the central one.

Before installation, you need to place a support under the sheet, then screw it to the crossbars using a screwdriver at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other. It is better to wrap the screws at a certain angle to the center of the beam. To avoid mistakes with steps between beams, subsequent ones can be installed only after installing one strip of the ceiling slab.

It is necessary to pay attention to one more detail. If the brackets are attached to unplastered walls, then before installation ceiling tiles better lane Plaster between the brackets. This is where the ceiling slab meets the wall. Gypsum putty, thanks white color will visually increase the area of the garage.

Ceiling insulation

To increase the comfort of working in the garage, it is necessary to insulate it. By the way, insulating does not mean heating. Insulation is organized so that after turning on the heating device in the garage, the temperature in the room rises faster. It's warm as we know goes through the ceiling, the insulation of which will help avoid such situations.

Even before the ceiling is flashed and insulated, wind blowing under the roof is excluded. On ceiling slabs a certain number of bags of perlite are laid. This lightweight material has high thermal insulation properties. Its tight fit to the corners will provide reliable thermal insulation on long term. The second way to insulate the ceiling in a garage is to lay mineral wool on the ceiling slabs. For these purposes, sheet rather than rolled mineral wool is used, since the former is more convenient to cut and lay. If this is not possible, then it is recommended to use another method of insulation.

From the bottom of the vertical walls at a certain distance in cross beams tighten the screws. We stretch a polypropylene twine between them and carefully lay the cotton wool directly on it, firmly adhering to the beams. Then we file the ceiling slabs. Thanks to this design, it is additionally ensured air gap between the insulation and the slab, which better retains heat flows.

Although the garage is considered a place for parking and servicing personal vehicle, many car enthusiasts strive to expand the functionality of this room, turning it into a place for a comfortable pastime. To provide the interior with comfort, first of all you need to cover the internal surfaces with a material that is practical, but at the same time pleasing to the eye. Let's consider which methods of covering the ceiling are the best.

How to cover the ceiling?

Before you head to the hardware store, there are a number of significant nuances to take into account. First, search suitable option, focusing only on the criterion appearance, may be fraught. If the product is unable to maintain its properties under the pressure of temperature changes, humid air and other factors, then no amount of appearance and attractiveness can compensate for this deficiency.

It is also necessary to take into account the specifics of the garage: here, not only the climate poses a threat to the finishing, but also the evaporation of brake fluid, engine exhaust and other substances with which the operation of the car is associated.

Considering that a garage building is rarely equipped a full-fledged system heating, all available measures should be taken to maintain heat. To do this, the garage roof must be insulated from the inside with a special “cushion”.

The optimal candidates for the role of the latter are:

Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
penoplex and others.

It is penoplex that retains the temperature most effectively: even a thin layer will be enough to stabilize the microclimate. This feature is relevant for low garages, where excessively low ceilings will noticeably reduce the already modest space of the room.

The need for the insulation procedure itself is justified by the fact that about a quarter of the heat evaporates through the ceiling. So, upon completion of the correct installation of insulation, the result will be noticeable even without a thermometer.

To create a reliable insulating sheet, you will need to form a frame, which can be made of wood or metal. Wood will, of course, be cheaper, but it is also vulnerable to conditions that provoke fire (the wood also needs to be treated with a fire retardant before installation). Successful installation frame structure requires knowledge of technology, which will be discussed below.

Making a wooden hanging frame

Metal hanging frame

This option is similar in its design to the installation wooden frame. The marking is carried out according to the same scheme: the perimeter is outlined, and after it the joints of the slats with the walls. Afterwards, hangers intended for the CD profile are attached, with an indentation of half a meter.
However, here there is also a UD profile, fixed along the walls and directed bottom to a pre-knocked wall. This profile carries two functions at once and acts as both a holder and a guide. Pairs of dowel-screws are attached every 40 - 50 centimeters.
Having done all of the above, you need to secure the CD-to-UD-profiles in the marked places. Before this, each unit of the metal frame is shortened to a suitable length, taking into account a tolerance of 5 mm (the profile will be shorter than the distance from wall to wall by a centimeter), and then placed in the guides, ignoring the hangers for now.
By stretching a nylon thread under the frame perpendicular to it, you will get a guide for alignment. To prevent sagging profiles from interfering, lift them higher, enveloping them with wings of hangers. After this, the profiles at the height of the thread are attached to the guides and hangers with small self-tapping screws.

Advice! When trying to attach the hangers to concrete slab you will probably encounter a problem: the dowels will slip inside due to the fact that concrete mass hollow. You can get around this obstacle by using flared dowels. Impact dowels will also work if you choose a different screw.

Since the hangers are mounted on 6 mm dowels, screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm would be best. Neglecting this recommendation will result in the dowel falling out of the hole, since it will not be widened enough.

Insulation

The simplest way is to insert insulation material between the profiles and fill the joints polyurethane foam. This method is the best if polystyrene foam acts as a thermal cushion. Although mineral wool with special condition: its edges need to be pushed under the frame, since the foam itself will not hold such a soft material.

Foil-coated polyethylene foam (penofol) also copes well with the insulation task. Having prepared a single canvas, the dimensions of which are consistent with the parameters of the ceiling, it must be attached to the frame using a mounting stapler, and the joints must be taped. On top of the penofol layer, slats are attached, to which, in turn, lining or any other covering material is attached.

Advice! Be careful if you choose mineral wool. Get protective equipment (namely goggles, a respirator and closed clothing) to prevent fiber dust from entering the body and respiratory tract.

This is especially important for allergy sufferers and carriers of various ailments that affect breathing: carcinogenic particles, in contact with the skin and mucous membrane, provoke severe irritation.

Video - Insulating the ceiling in a garage with penoplex

Selection of cladding material

TO today The most common are four ways to decorate the ceiling of a garage:

wet plastering;
plasterboard covering;
installation of PVC panels;
laying OSB sheets.

The materials have both advantages and disadvantages. Besides performance qualities, they vary greatly in price. Therefore, you should weed out too expensive options and choose from the remaining variety.

It is also worth considering the material consumption. It is advisable to calculate in advance the volume that will be involved in the work and add to it 1/10 of the obtained figures. This measure ensures that there will be enough material to fully implement the repair plan.

Manufacturers produce plastic panels in the following sizes, regardless of external color and tone:
length - 2.6; 2.7 and 3 m.
width from 0.15 to 0.50 m
thickness - 6,8,9 and 10 mm.

There is no need to lose sight of the factors that the ceiling covering will encounter. Aggressive substances, moisture and temperature changes can ruin all the work if the product used is not intended for such conditions.

Wet plastering

This method became widespread earlier than others and still does not lose its relevance, since it shows very good results regarding the criteria of resistance and durability. The process itself consists of three steps.

Spraying - applying a solution brought to a creamy consistency onto a previously wetted surface.

Applying an even more thickened composition to the frozen spray and further leveling. This is the “foundation” of the coating, therefore this layer is the thickest.

Covering. Here the thickest solution is used, which is applied locally and smoothed with a trowel. Such careful measures are necessary since the previous two stages cannot give a sufficiently smooth plane.

The attractive properties of a wet-plastered ceiling are too good not to hide the catch, which is the labor-intensive process. Not everyone can invest so much effort and time into arranging a garage, and therefore many turn to alternative solutions.

PVC panels

These panels are easy to install, taking no more than 4 hours. At the same time, the service life is truly impressive, which, in tandem with ease of maintenance, makes this material a favorite in the eyes of supporters of practicality. Any type is suitable for cleaning. household chemicals. Regarding the external component, the modern assortment always allows you to choose something to suit your taste. Closes the galaxy advantages of PVC quite reasonable price.

Addressing operational characteristics, one cannot fail to note the extraordinary resistance to moisture and fire protection. All installation measures can be implemented without the assistance of specialists, which, again, saves the repair budget.

The only drawback of PVC is its fragility. However, if you handle it carefully, there will be no problems; just refrain from hitting the panels.

Installing PVC plates on the ceiling involves the following sequence of actions.

Prepare panels that extend from wall to wall. The panels will be located across the frame profiles. You should cut the canvas for your own convenience construction knife, not forgetting to break off the blunt end.

Cut a chamfer on the first board so that it is in closer contact with the guide. This will prevent a dust streak from appearing.

Fix the panel with self-tapping screws and press washers. This will ensure the strength of the structure even when deformed under the influence of temperature.

Shorten and trim the board. To calculate the appropriate width, you need to measure the distance from the deep edge of the profile to the near end of the penultimate panel, and then subtract 5 mm from the resulting value.

First insert the final element of the new ceiling into the guide, and then push it into the end groove of the adjacent board (preferably with wet palms for better grip).

Video - Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

This algorithm, with some differences, is also used when installing drywall and OSB boards.

Drywall

Sew up the ceiling plasterboard sheets preferred by most garage owners. This is due to the simplicity of the procedure, even taking into account the need to assemble the frame. Even non-professionals can carry out such an installation on their own. Most often, the frame is built from lightweight galvanized profile plates, which are also characterized by an affordable price.

There are a number of obvious advantages that encourage the use of drywall, including:

the ability to disguise coating flaws;
simple installation that does not take much time;
the ability to hide communications between the ceiling and drywall;
segmentation of the canvas into sheets, allowing you to eliminate damaged parts without the need to replace the rest;
the ability to create a multi-level structure;
safety and environmental friendliness of the material;
affordable price.

The following circumstances may force you to refuse cladding with this material:

the height of the second ceiling will be less than the first one by at least 3 - 4 centimeters;
sheet joints can crack over time and become a place for moisture accumulation, which poses a great threat to drywall;
vulnerability to water also prevents the surface from being washed. (only wiping with a barely wet cloth is permissible);
rapid loss of original color.

Installing drywall to the ceiling requires compliance with the following rules.

Oriented Strand Board

If the materials described earlier were a combination of practical and aesthetic properties in a certain proportion, then OSB is a material that copes well with basic tasks, but sacrifices appearance for this. Such slabs are suitable for those who want to get high-quality and cheap cladding. Sheets are available in different thicknesses, so you can choose the appropriate configuration.

During production, OSB is saturated with resin and paraffin, which gives the product outstanding moisture resistance and strength. The material can also be painted and is easy to process.

OSB - oriented strand boards

At the same time, water evaporation remains a problem, as in the case of drywall: although contact with moisture is not dangerous for the slabs, their edges remain vulnerable. Cover up weakness Careful treatment with special compounds will help.

Installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the case of PVC, and diverges from it only in a few points.

Whether it is screws for a wooden or metal frame, you can use products that do not exceed 25mm in length.
Before hiding the unsightly texture of the OSB with painting, you need to fill the gaps at the joints with wood putty. Once painted, oriented strand board will be indistinguishable from drywall.

Stages of ceiling cladding using OSB

On a note! Size standard slabs OSB 2.5x1.25 m. It turns out two sheets in length across the garage, taking into account the cutouts when adjusting to uneven walls. It turns out that the distance between the center lines of the outermost carriers will be 1.25 m and another carrier in the middle. It should be taken into account that the distance between the outermost load-bearing sheets should be maintained very accurately so that both adjacent sheets converge on the center line of the 50 mm wide beam.

Compare the considered methods of covering a garage ceiling with each other and choose best option It will be easier if you refer to the table.

Table. Comparison of garage ceiling cladding methods.

Method/material	Advantages	Flaws
Wet plastering	Durability, ability to maintain original ceiling height	High labor intensity and skill requirement
PVC panels	Easy to maintain and install, as well as fast installation, long service life	Fragility
Drywall	Ease of replacing obsolete panels, ability to hide unsightly communications, environmental friendliness	Noticeable lowering of the ceiling, susceptibility to the destructive influence of moisture, which also does not allow the coating to be washed
OSB	Cheapness in tandem with good performance	Poor visual design

Armed with the information covered in the article, you will certainly find material that meets your individual needs. At the same time, no matter what the choice is, it is necessary to take installation measures seriously. The integrity of the structure and its service life depend on how correctly the installation is carried out. You certainly shouldn’t skimp on fasteners. After consulting with a specialist, there is no need to seek a compromise between the recommendations received and the desire to save time and money. Remember: a stingy man pays twice, so it’s better to put in the effort and get reliable ceiling than to reap the fruits of your stinginess in the form of sagging or peeling coverage and other consequences.

Video - Installation of OSB on the ceiling

October 5, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

The use of OSB boards these days is so extensive that it can be found almost everywhere: both inside and outside structures. This is due to high operational properties material and ease of use. We will figure out for what purposes OSB sheets can be used, how to choose them and what to pay attention to when finishing the surface inside and outside of buildings.

Use of material inside

I am often asked the question, is it possible to use OSB for interior decoration? There are no obstacles to this, since quality material always has certificates confirming its safety for human health.

Wall cladding

OSB is ideal for interior wall decoration. It is important to collect all the necessary materials before work:

Materials used	Characteristics
Frame material
OSB boards	The size of the sheets is 2440x1220 mm, as for the thickness, it can range from 6 to 30 mm, you need to choose the option that suits your needs. specific situation. Most often, sheets with a thickness of 10-11 mm are used, but standards may vary. The quantity is calculated based on the area to be coated
Frame material	Here we need either wooden blocks, or metal profile. You yourself must choose the option that is most suitable for your home. Metal is more expensive, but it does not deform due to changes in temperature and humidity; wood is cheaper, but the frame can “walk” when temperatures fluctuate. Wood is most often used, but this does not mean that you cannot install a profile
Fasteners	Interior decoration requires reliable fixation of each element, so close attention must be paid to the fasteners. For work, you can use either self-tapping screws or screw nails; they fix the material much better than conventional ones, which means they will ensure high reliability of the finish.

If you are purchasing OSB for finishing, it is better to purchase a material that has already been sanded at the factory. This will greatly simplify your life and save a lot of time when applying decorative coatings.

As for the tools, in all cases you need approximately the same set; I will list everything you need here, but I won’t write about it in other sections, since this list will be relevant there too.

You need to have the following on hand:

If the sheathing or frame will be attached to concrete or brick, then you need a hammer drill with drills of the required diameter and length. It can also be used as a drill by turning off the impact mode and placing the chuck under drills for metal or wood. Such universal option is the most convenient to date;
For twisting individual elements structures and when attaching OSB sheets to the frame with self-tapping screws, you cannot do without a screwdriver - it is unlikely that you will be able to tighten the fasteners by hand, it takes too much effort. If nails are used for fastening, then you will naturally need a hammer; this tool is available at any construction site;
It is impossible to carry out quality work without measuring tool. You can use the most various devices: from classic options, like a plumb line and tape measure, to high-tech ones in the form of a laser level and the same tape measure. Marking is done using a regular construction pencil, although you can also use special options like felt-tip pens.

Now let's figure out how the walls inside the house are finished using OSB boards:

First of all, you need to mark the future position of the frame; for this, a level and plumb line are used; it is important to determine the position of the elements in advance, so that later you are not constantly distracted by controlling the plane. Most often, elements are placed close to the walls; here it is important to find the most protruding area and dance away from it when marking;
It is important to clearly determine the distance of the vertical posts; they should run along the edges of each sheet and in the middle, creating a stiffening rib. Most often, the spacing of the frame elements is approximately 40 centimeters; the thickness of the block should be at least 40 mm to ensure the convenience of attaching our OSB boards to it;

The frame is fastened depending on the type of base: the structure is fixed to wood with self-tapping screws, and to concrete and brick - with dowels. To strengthen individual sections (the same openings), you can additionally install metal corners. If you have frame house, then the structure will already be present and there is no need to build anything, the main thing is that the insulation is laid and the vapor barrier membrane is fixed;

The material is fastened according to strict rules: there must be a gap of 10 mm between the OSB board and the floor, and the same is left along the ceiling. It is also important to place the sheets not closely, but at a distance of 3 mm from each other, this will prevent surface deformation due to changes in humidity, because the material reacts to them;

As for installation, screws or nails are placed every 15 cm at the joints of the sheets and at a distance of 30 cm on the intermediate posts. Along the edges, that is, above and below, it is recommended to place the fasteners even closer - every 10 cm. The work is done carefully; you should not place the fasteners closer than 10 mm from the edge, since there is a high probability of cracking of the material.

Ceiling cladding

This option is most often used in suburban and country houses, but it can also be implemented in an apartment, if it suits the interior, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to secure the guides around the perimeter of the room; the easiest way is to pre-apply markings using a laser level or a construction cord in order to have clear guidelines. Installation is carried out either using self-tapping screws, if the structure is wooden, or using dowels for other bases;
Next, you need to secure the remaining elements of the frame; here it is important to constantly monitor the plane and carefully fix each part of the structure. If the fastening is not made directly to the ceiling, but at intervals, then the easiest way to work is to use direct hangers for drywall; with their help, you can clearly align each rack and securely fasten it;

As for fastening the sheets, the process is similar to that described above; there is no point in repeating all the requirements. Here we can only note the fact that if you built metal carcass, then you need to use screws with a fine thread pitch, and not with a large one, like for wood.

When working with the ceiling, it is important to plan for cable routing in advance, and it is best to lay it in a special corrugated box to ensure safety.

Flooring

A floor made of OSB boards is not only reliable, but also original, so this option is becoming more and more common. As for the work process, it can be divided into several main stages:

First you need to determine how thick the sheet will be used, a lot depends on this. So, with a thickness of 15-18 mm, the distance between the logs should be no more than 40 cm, if the thickness is 18-22 mm, then the logs can be spaced in increments of 50 cm, and if the thickness is 23 mm or more, then there may be space between the logs up to 60 cm. That is, if you already have logs, then you need to select an OBB slab for them, otherwise your floor will turn out to be unreliable;

If you already have flooring in the form of a board or other material, then you can attach OSB directly to it; you just need to first level the surface if there are uneven surfaces.

Next, it’s worth considering the location of the sheets; they are always laid perpendicular to the position of the joists, and all joints should be supported. As for the long side, for the floor you need to use special option OSB boards with a tongue-and-groove connection system, since it is not possible to fasten elements with staples or other fasteners The best decision, and the strength will be several times lower;

Regardless of what base the floor will be placed on, the surface must be waterproofed; for this, a special film is laid that will protect the material from below. If insulation is needed, then the heat-insulating elements are placed in the frame as tightly as possible;
The OSB is fastened using self-tapping screws, which must be recessed so that the head is located below the plane of the floor, this will simplify its further finishing. A deformation gap of 10 mm must be left between the slab and the walls to compensate for the reaction of the material to changes in humidity and temperature. Laying begins from the corner; this is also an important condition for reliable installation.

Using OSB for external walls

Due to the high moisture resistance, OSB-3 and OSB-4 can be successfully used in exterior decoration. We will not consider the option of sheets for the roof, since this is not a finish, but a foundation device, but wall cladding requires the closest attention. This method is ideal for frame structures, as well as for protecting old buildings trimmed with wood paneling.

Let's figure out how the exterior cladding is made from OSB boards. To begin with, I will show you a diagram that shows the ideal structure of the frame structure, this will allow you to understand how the entire work process should be carried out, because we are only analyzing its last stage.

Exterior finishing is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The entire surface of the facade must be covered with a windproof film, which will protect the structure from adverse influences and allow all its elements to maintain strength and reliability for as long as possible. The easiest way to fasten the material is with a special construction stapler;

Next, you need to secure the outer sheathing; you can use either a block or a planed board for it; it is much more convenient due to its large width. The distance between the elements depends on the thickness of the OSB board; the most commonly used option is 10-12 mm, under which the sheathing should be fixed in increments of no more than 40 cm;
As for the arrangement of sheets, all the requirements that apply inside are also valid outside. The space at the top and bottom should be at least 10 mm, and gaps of 3-5 mm should be left between the sheets, since temperature differences outside are greater, which means the material will expand more;

Concerning window openings, then it is best to cut them directly into the sheet, this produces the most durable option. It is important to make a reliable frame of the opening in order to secure the material as best as possible;

Fastening is done using screw nails 50 mm long or self-tapping screws 41 mm long. The spacing at the joints is 15 cm, at the edges - 10 cm, on the elements in the middle of the sheet responsible for rigidity - 30 cm. The distance from the edge is at least 10 mm, and better yet 15-20, which is why it is better to make the sheathing from wider materials.

Decorative coating options

I deliberately did not begin to understand every section about what can be applied to the surface and how to do it. I will talk about the most popular options in one chapter, and you will choose the best one depending on your situation. It will be easier and clearer this way.

Coloring

If you need a quick and inexpensive finishing walls or ceiling, then this option will be the most optimal solution, in addition to low costs, it is also good because of the simplicity of the process. But in order to achieve best result, need to know whole line important conditions and recommendations:

First of all, you need to check all the fastener caps; if some of them are located above the level of the sheets, then they should be recessed to a depth of 1-2 mm. Self-tapping screws are tightened with a screwdriver, and nails are deepened using a hammer, since driving them deep with a hammer is problematic;

It is recommended to round all ends on the sheets using sandpaper, this is necessary so that there are no smudges of the composition along the edges. Of course, it is best to use materials with ground ends, but finding such can be very, very difficult;
All fastening points, as well as joints between sheets, are sealed with sealant on acrylic base . It's great for OSB and allows you to hide everything problem areas. Another advantage of this type of composition is that they are easily painted if necessary, unlike silicone sealants. After drying, all excess can be easily removed with sandpaper;

If you will be covering the surface with varnish or other composition that does not hide the structure of the material, then it is best to use acrylic sealant“Pine” color, it goes best with the OSB color and is almost invisible after application.

Before finishing OSB walls inside a house or outside a building, it is necessary to prime the surface. This is due to the fact that the surface has uneven absorption, and if it is not prepared, then any paint and varnish composition will lie unevenly. It is best to use acrylic-based compositions with a strengthening effect for painting; they are applied with a brush or over the entire area;

If, after the material has dried, you find that pile has risen on it, then you need to sand the base with sandpaper with a grain size of M150 or less. After all the defects have been removed, the primer must be repeated; only after this can we consider that we have qualitatively prepared the base for finishing;
Both paint and varnish can be used as a finishing coating, it all depends on the purpose of use and the type of base. If paint is used, it is best to use alkyd or acrylic based options, although water-based compositions suitable if you are using a moisture-resistant slab. The work is carried out in several stages, it is best to apply 2-3 layers to obtain a reliable and durable decorative and protective layer;

If you are applying varnish, you can use different variants. After all, it could be a ceiling made of OSB boards and its finishing will not be subject to wear, or it could be a floor that is under constant load, and if you apply a weak composition, it will quickly become unusable. Acrylic varnish is well suited for ceilings and walls, while for flooring it is best to use high-strength polyurethane-based options.

putty

If you have not yet decided how to finish the OSB, but are firmly convinced that the surface will either be plastered, or covered with wallpaper, or painted all over, then you can prepare the base by puttingtying it. Putty allows you to get a perfectly flat surface that can be finished in any way you like, and this is an undoubted advantage of this solution.

There are many opinions among experts regarding how to carry out the work correctly, I will tell you about the option that I tried myself and which showed itself to be the best:

First you need to clean the surface of dust and dirt, just wipe it with a rag and check if the heads of the screws or nail heads are sticking out. They should be recessed 1-2 mm below the level of the slab, and if this is not the case, all defects must be eliminated before starting other work;
Since OSB boards undergo special treatment, there is always paraffin or wax on the surface; these materials impair the adhesion of the compounds, so you must go over the surface with an emery block to remove the paraffin and make the material rougher. This is a tedious but very important step that must be done if you want the best result;

Then you need to seal all the seams between the sheets; for this you can use nitro putty, but I prefer lightweight putty for body work. It is very elastic and at the same time has excellent adhesion; it can quickly and reliably seal all joints. And you don’t need to worry that the composition will fall off; it will withstand many years, because its strength is an order of magnitude higher than that of construction options;

When the composition has dried, you need to remove small flaws with sandpaper, after which you can begin priming the surface. For this work I use adhesive compounds; they adhere perfectly to OSB and create a rough surface that is suitable for any type of finish. Simply put, we get an excellent base for any purpose and can apply anything to it without worrying about how to finish OSB;

Any putty is applied to the surfaces prepared in this way, the work here is no different from ordinary work, you need to ensure the uniformity of the layer and carefully repair all unevenness, if any. After drying, the surface must be sanded using sandpaper or a special mesh. You can easily glue wallpaper onto such a base, you can apply paint, because you get a regular putty surface;
If you decide to apply on top decorative plaster, then you can additionally strengthen the surface with fiberglass mesh, this will ensure maximum strength of the finish. It is recommended to install it for exterior finishing; it is not at all necessary inside.

Using all the recommendations, you can easily figure out how to decorate the outside of an OSB house or how to treat the ceiling. It is important not to violate the technology and use only moisture-resistant materials, as they are much stronger and more reliable.

Conclusion

OSB board – excellent modern solution, which is suitable for different purposes and can be used for both interior and exterior decoration. It is important to properly and securely fasten the material and then finish it to protect it from adverse influences and give it a more attractive appearance. The video will tell you about some important nuances discussed topic, and if you have questions, write them in the comments under this review.

– this is a second home. This is where many “men” spend all their evenings and weekends. Therefore, the improvement of this additional “living” area is important. Even if this is not the case in your case, everyone still wants to feel cozy and comfortable in the room. And in this situation, it is important how to line the inside of the garage. What materials can be used? Some options will be discussed in this article.

Requirements for finishing materials

To sheathe the walls of a garage, it is very important to choose the right material. Not only the appearance, but also the safety and duration of operation will depend on this. So, the material must meet the following requirements:

resistance to mechanical stress;
resistance to chemicals;
not afraid of temperature changes;
non-flammability;
ease of care;
aesthetics.

This General requirements to materials. Everything else will depend on the taste and financial capabilities of the garage owner.

Plaster is the cheapest option

Usage sand-cement mortar for finishing walls in non-residential premises- This is an old and proven method. A layer of plaster will protect against excess moisture and insulate the garage a little. In addition, cement and sand are non-flammable substances, which means the level of fire safety increases.

The plaster solution is being prepared in the usual way. For one part of cement, take three, four or five (depending on the brand of cement) parts of sifted sand. Then, using a trowel, the mixture is applied to the surface. If the walls are uneven, you can apply several layers.

To increase durability and improve appearance, all walls can be painted. For these purposes, it is better to take waterproof or facade paints. In this case, the surface can be washed.

Using ceramic tiles

Another popular way– use of ceramic tiles. This finish is not afraid of fire, mechanical stress and chemicals. The tiles are also easy to clean, and (if the installation technology is followed) they are not afraid of water.

As a more reliable option, you can choose clinker tiles. This material is made from special clay using special firing. As a result, all the pores of the tile are closed, and it is absolutely not afraid of water. But such finishing material quite expensive.

Decorating walls in a garage using tiles (regular ceramic or clinker) requires certain skills. In addition, such material is quite heavy, so only strong walls can withstand such a load. Finishing tiles can be used if the garage is built of brick or concrete.

A newly built garage will shrink, so tiling is not advisable until this process is completed.

Wood finishing

Quite often, wood is used to decorate the walls in the garage. Wooden panels or lining can be used to beautifully decorate the interior space quite quickly and without dirt. In addition, it will cost relatively inexpensive.

But this material has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, wood burns well. Therefore, such finishing increases the fire hazard. Secondly, wooden structures Due to temperature changes and changes in humidity, they may begin to warp. This will seriously affect the appearance.

Wood absorbs odors well. After a long period of use, the walls of the garage can begin to smell very unpleasant.

But there is one alternative. The walls in the garage can be sheathed with oriented strand boards or OSB. This material consists of 90% wood chips, and the rest is a special waterproof resin. Thanks to this composition, the slabs do not burn, are not saturated with odors and are not afraid of excess moisture. The structure of OSB allows you to hold driven nails well and another plus is that there is no danger of damage by insects (which cannot be said about ordinary wood).

Application of plastic panels

Can also be used modern material. Plastic panels are perfect for decorating walls in a garage. This material does not burn and will not be damaged by excess moisture. In addition, the walls can be easily washed, which is very important for keeping the garage clean.

It is better to use as panels for finishing facade materials. They are stronger and more durable. But even these panels have one significant drawback- they are fragile. Plastic can easily break from a strong impact.

When choosing a material for decorating walls in a garage, you need to weigh the pros and cons, look at the photo and choose the appropriate option. It is important to understand for what purposes you will use the garage. If it is constantly held renovation work, then it is better to choose reliable plaster or strong ceramic tiles. If the garage is needed only for storing a car, then you can use wooden or plastic panels. They are not as durable and practical, but they have a more attractive appearance.

Video

This video shows how a garage is sheathed with corrugated sheets:

Photo

If you want to transform the room in which the car is stored and make it more comfortable, then covering the garage with OSB boards will solve this problem 100%. OSB boards are used for cladding ceilings and walls; their installation does not require a lot of knowledge, so it can be done independently. The panels last a long time, and they affordable price allows you not to cause a strong blow to the garage owner’s wallet.

Features of OSB boards

OSB board is made from wood chips that are glued together under pressure. As adhesive base resins are taken boric acid and synthetic wax. This combination gives the material high performance properties:

Resistance to fungi;
Flexibility;
Resistance to delamination.

If moisture gets on the wall or ceiling cladding once, the cladding is not destroyed, and the flexibility of the panels allows them to be mounted on a limited area. uneven surfaces. Important point– this is resistance to fungus and mold, since there is a high probability of increased humidity in the garage and the resistance declared by the manufacturer increases the service life of OSB boards.

When choosing slabs, pay attention to the markings, because letter designation You can find out about the content of synthetic resins in the material. OSB panels marked E0 and E1 have the least amount of resin, and slabs marked E2 and E3 have the most resins. The higher the resin content, the better the panels resist moisture and delamination. For rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant OSB-E3.

Covering the ceiling with OSB boards involves preparing the base and installing wooden sheathing. It’s rare that a garage has a perfectly flat ceiling, so the base must be prepared before attaching the sheathing. Task No. 1 - all elements of the sheathing must be in the same horizontal plane. To do this, use a level and wooden pads under the slats. The slats fastening interval is 50-60 cm, per concrete base the slats are fixed to dowels in increments of 15-20 cm.

An alternative to wooden slats is a metal profile, from which the sheathing is made in a similar way. We also note that at height ceiling structure less than 2.2 meters OSB sheathing not recommended, as it will be uncomfortable in the room.

To fasten the plates, metal-look screws are used; the length of the self-tapping screws is twice the thickness of the sheet. During installation, one person holds the plate, and a second worker with a screwdriver carries out the fastening. You can’t do the job alone, since you can’t work with the tool with both hands and overcome the force of gravity, which pulls the OSB down.

The sheathing starts from the corner of the garage, the OSB panels are attached closely with a gap of 2-3 mm. The gap is necessary for possible expansion facing material, after complete covering, the gap is sealed. If the gap is not made, the OSB board may become deformed during operation due to constant exposure to high humidity.

After the ceiling is sheathed, it remains to carry out the final finishing of the OSB panels. The easiest option is to paint without putty, but in this case the surface will be rough. In order for the ceiling to be mirror-smooth, it is necessary to putty, strip and paint in two layers. Such cladding cannot be distinguished from a plasterboard structure.

OSB garage wall cladding

It's rare that a garage has smooth walls, so difficulties with the installation of sheathing often arise. Before covering, markings are made to help avoid mistakes when attaching frame elements.

If the wall is uneven, then the protruding section is taken as the upper reference point when installing the sheathing. On him wooden slats or a metal profile is mounted at zero; on the depressions, correction of the structure is required to bring it into one plane.

First, horizontal beams or a profile are secured to self-tapping screws or dowels, after which the vertical posts are installed. If beams are used, the sheathing lines are connected using metal corners. For metal profile special fasteners and metal-to-metal screws are used.

After the sheathing is completed, the wall is checked for accuracy along a horizontal line ( laser level or regular twine) and vertically (regular level). Only after this can the OSB board be fixed with self-tapping screws with a gap between the sheets of 2-3 mm.

If the garage has high humidity, then the cladding of OSB panels can be additionally coated with varnish for wooden surfaces. Varnishing is carried out at open doors and use protective equipment(respirator).