Stove chimneys (smoke circuits) are a system of channels inside the stove that connect the firebox to the chimney. Stove chimneys are designed to remove flue gases from the firebox and provide heating to the walls of the stove. Heat is transferred to the walls of the smoke channels due to the speed of gas movement through the furnace channels. The cross-section of chimneys (smoke circuits) must ensure the free passage of gases. Recommended chimney sections are 130×130 mm (half brick on half), 260×130 mm (brick on half brick), 260 ×260 mm (brick on brick). All turns in stove chimneys must be rounded so that less soot settles on them. The joints of the brickwork must be completely filled so as not to create additional turbulence when gases pass through. With a large cross-section, the gases passing through the chimneys will be cooled quite strongly, which will lead to the appearance of condensation at the outlet. The internal surface of chimneys should be as smooth and even as possible to reduce movement resistance flue gases.
Stove chimney systems (smoke circuits) are:
- channel;
- ductless;
- mixed.
In channel chimney systems (smoke circuits), flue gases are removed using channels. Channel chimneys are divided into:
- single-turn;
- multi-turn.
Channelless stove chimneys (smoke circulation) include a system of chambers separated by partitions.
Each chimney system has its own advantages and disadvantages. The multi-turn chimney system has the greatest number of disadvantages. In a multi-turn system, gases must pass through channels, making turns, which leads to resistance to their movement. To overcome resistance, it is necessary to have good draft in the chimney. Such draft can be created by increasing the height of the chimney, which is not always feasible. Another way to obtain good draft is to increase the temperature of the gases at the chimney outlet, which will inevitably lead to heat loss and increased fuel consumption. A multi-turn system of stove chimneys (smoke circuits) makes sense only if they are short in length. Another disadvantage of multi-turn systems is the unequal heating of the furnace in the areas of the first and last channel, and this can lead to cracking of the masonry. Therefore, the use of a multi-turn system is usually not recommended. But even such a system can be improved, which will be discussed below.
The temperature of the gases before exiting the chimney should not exceed 120 - 140°C. The high temperature of the gases (250 - 300°C) before exiting the chimney indicates that the length of the stove chimneys (smoke circuits) needs to be increased. The low temperature of the exhaust gases (below 120°C) indicates that the length of the chimneys needs to be reduced. High temperature at the outlet can lead to the appearance of condensation, which, penetrating through the masonry, gradually destroys it.
Channel stove chimneys (smoke circuits) are divided into vertical, horizontal and mixed according to their location. In the direction of movement of flue gases - upward and downward.
When choosing a chimney duct system, it must be taken into account that vertical system provides greater heat transfer from flue gases, and the horizontal system creates better draft, which is important when the chimney is not very high.
Stove chimneys (smoke circuits) are single-turn.
Single-turn stove chimneys have one riser channel and one or more downstream channels connected in parallel. Flue gases from the furnace enter the lifting channel, then pass through all the downdrafts, and only after that enter the chimney. The heating of the furnace walls is mainly carried out in the lowering channels.
A positive property of single-turn chimneys is that their walls are heated evenly, since the temperature of the gases in all parallel downdraft channels is the same.
Another valuable property of single-turn chimneys is self-regulation of draft in the lower channels. A deterioration in draft in one of the lower channels will lead to a decrease in the volume of gas passed through it, and as a result to a decrease in the temperature inside the channel. But the volumetric weight of the gases in this channel will increase, and heavier gases will move down faster. Therefore, the flow of gases into the less heated channel will increase. The temperature in the channel will increase, the passage of gases through all down channels will again become uniform.
The simplest version of a single-turn stove chimney system is a system with one lift channel and one down channel. But stoves with such a chimney system have low efficiency, since they have a small heat-receiving surface. In addition, the temperature of the gases in the first lifting channel is very high, resulting in uneven heating of the furnace, which leads to the appearance of cracks. The gas temperature at the chimney inlet can reach 200 – 220°C.
A chimney system (smoke circuit) with one lift channel and several down channels does not have the disadvantages of a multi-turn system. But with such a system, the upper part of the furnace heats up the most; the lower part of the furnace has a much lower temperature. A chimney system with predominantly bottom heating is free from this drawback and provides heating to the bottom of the stove. Hot gases from the firebox first fall down, thereby heating the bottom of the furnace, then rise up. Top part The chimneys of such a stove are made single-turn or in the form of a cap. Of course, the design that ensures heating of the lower part of the stove increases the gas resistance, but such a chimney system is the most effective.
Stove chimneys (smoke circuits) are multi-turn.
In multi-turn stove chimneys, the smoke channel consists of vertical and horizontal sections connected in series. In such furnaces, flue gases, when moving, overcome a large number of revolutions, which leads to soot settling in the channels. In such furnaces, a cleaning device is a prerequisite. In such a system, the gases are greatly cooled, and the draft in the furnace deteriorates. IN initial period The furnace is smoking. Cooling of flue gases can lead to condensation.
In a multi-turn system, gases must pass through channels, making turns, which leads to resistance to their movement. To overcome resistance, it is necessary to have good draft in the chimney. Such draft can be created by increasing the height of the chimney, which is possible within certain limits. Another way to obtain good draft is to increase the temperature of the gases at the chimney outlet, which will inevitably lead to heat loss and increased fuel consumption. A multi-turn system of stove chimneys makes sense only if they are short in length. Another disadvantage of multi-turn systems is the unequal heating of the furnace in the areas of the first and last channel, and this can lead to cracking of the masonry. But the biggest disadvantage of a stove with multi-turn chimneys is that heating it requires a large amount of fuel, which is not commensurate with the amount of heat generated. Therefore, using a multi-turn system without the improvements described below is generally not recommended.
How to modify stoves with multi-turn horizontal chimneys (smoke circuits) to increase their efficiency.
In each horizontal channel it is necessary to make suction (injection) holes with a cross section of 15 - 20 cm 2. Injection holes are made every 70 cm. The stove will melt better, soot deposits will be reduced, and a constant temperature will be maintained at the chimney outlet. The principles of operation of chimneys with injection holes are described in more detail below in the entry “Mixed system with horizontal and vertical chimneys and injection holes.”
How to change stoves with multi-turn vertical chimneys
(smoke circulation) to increase their efficiency.
In the dividing walls between the vertical chimneys it is necessary to make injection holes with a cross section of 15 - 20 cm 2, which will ensure draft in the furnace and constant temperature gases at the chimney outlet.
How to change stoves with single-turn chimneys
(smoke circulation) to increase their efficiency.
It is necessary to make suction (injection) holes with a cross section of 15 - 20 cm 2 from the firebox and from the lower channel. Injection holes will facilitate good heating of the stove after a long break at any time of the year. With the help of injection holes, uniform heating of the furnace walls is ensured, while overheating of the roof and the ascending channel is reduced. 
Stove chimneys (smoke circulation) are ductless, bell-type.
There are no smoke channels in ductless stove chimneys. Gases from the firebox enter the chamber - the bell, rise to the roof of the furnace, spread along the walls, heat them, and, cooling down, fall down, and then go into the chimney. This system is quite simple to implement; the thermal energy of the fuel is used to the fullest.
The disadvantages of such a system are strong heating of the upper part of the hood, soot deposits on the walls of the hood, and high temperature of the exhaust gases.
A system with two hoods is more efficient. Flue gases from the furnace enter the first hood, then descend and enter the second hood. In such a system, most of the heat is transferred to the walls of the furnace; the temperature of the exhaust gases is not as high as in a system with one hood. But the top of the furnace also overheats and soot is deposited on the walls of the furnace.
Stove chimneys (smoke circuits), ductless, bell-type with buttresses.
Buttresses serve as additional heat accumulators on the inner surface of the chimneys in a bell-type furnace. Buttresses are made in the form of vertical ribs running along the walls of the stove and chimneys. Typically, buttresses are made of a quarter of a brick. Flue gases enter the bell from the firebox and rise upward, giving off some of the heat to the furnace walls, buttresses and roof of the furnace as they move.
The disadvantage of such a system is that a lot of soot is deposited on the inner surface of the furnace and especially on the buttresses, which can catch fire, leading to destruction of the furnace.
Mixed stove chimneys (smoke circuits) with vertical and horizontal channels.
Flue gases from the furnace enter horizontal channels, then go through vertical lifting and lowering channels and then enter the pipe. The heat transfer of horizontal stove chimneys significantly exceeds the heat transfer of vertical ducts. The biggest advantage of mixed flue stoves is maintaining a high temperature for a long time. But such furnaces have all the disadvantages of multi-turn furnaces, namely, strong supercooling of the flue gases, due to which the draft in the furnace weakens and a large amount of soot accumulates on the walls. Low temperature gases at the outlet leads to the appearance of condensate. 
Mixed system with horizontal and vertical stove chimneys (smoke circuits) and injection holes.
This stove chimney system is inherently multi-turn and has several horizontal and vertical channels. Without injection holes this system would not work at all. Let's consider the processes occurring in this chimney system, without injection holes. During fuel combustion, draft is generated. Under the influence of draft, flue gases pass through all channels, giving off heat to the furnace array. Above the horizontal channels there are hoods into which part of the flue gases rises. Gases cool during movement, giving off heat to the vertical channels and arches of the caps, becoming heavier and flowing back into the horizontal channels. In this case, the flue gases give off maximum heat to the walls of the furnace. This process occurs in each cap. But the consequence of this is severe supercooling of the flue gases, which leads to a decrease in draft. To enhance traction, injection holes are used to ensure self-regulation of traction. Holes are made in the firebox roof and in horizontal channels. The process of self-regulation occurs as follows. As the draft and temperature of the gases decrease, a vacuum is created in the horizontal channels; hot gases are sucked in through the injection holes from the firebox and from the underlying channels, thereby increasing the temperature of the gases, and the draft increases. Flue gases stop flowing into the injection holes when they reach normal temperature, pressure and speed. Injection holes are made with a cross-section of 15–20 cm2, every 70 cm.
Furnaces with this system d flues are heated evenly from bottom to top. There are no sudden changes in room temperature. The decrease in indoor temperature is 2 – 4 ˚С in 12 hours, and in 24 hours 4 – 6 ˚ C. At an outside temperature of minus 10˚C in a well-insulated house, the stove can be heated after 36-48 hours. But in winter, stoves with such a system chimneys needs to be heated regularly.
Comparative table of various stove chimney systems (smoke circuits).
| Name stove chimney systems |
Advantages | Flaws | Gas temperature at the chimney outlet, ˚С |
Efficiency % |
| Single-turn with vertical chimneys | Strong heating of the first ascending channel, irrational fuel consumption, small heat-receiving surface of the chimneys | 200-250 | 40-50 | |
| Single-turn with horizontal chimneys | Irrational fuel consumption, small heat-receiving surface of chimneys | 200-250 | 40-50 | |
| Multi-turn with vertical chimneys | Sufficiently large heat-receiving surface | Strong heating of the first ascending channel, overcooling of flue gases, leading to the appearance of condensation | 150-200 | 60-70 |
| Multi-turn with horizontal chimneys | Uniform heating of the oven | Subcooling of flue gases leading to condensation | 150-200 | 60-70 |
| Single-turn with several downdraft chimneys | Low resistance to gas movement, uniform heating of the furnace | 150-200 | 60-70 | |
| Kolpakovaya | Low resistance to gas movement | Irrational fuel consumption, small heat-receiving surface of chimneys, strong heating of the furnace roof | 200-250 | 50-60 |
| Mixed with horizontal and vertical chimneys with injection holes | Sufficiently large heat-receiving surface, uniform heating of the furnace, economical fuel consumption, long service life | Strong heating of the first ascending channel, overcooling of flue gases leading to the appearance of condensation, poor melting after a break | 110-130 | 75-85 |
- Scheme and drawings of V. A. Stroganov’s furnace
- Heating stove made of bricks by Sergei Mikhailov (drawings)
- Original brick stove by Sergei Mikhailov
- Designer Dutch oven made of brick by Sergei Mikhailov
- The simplest kitchen stove made of bricks
Pictures and photos of country house interiors are rarely complete without a stove. This is practically a symbol of a private home. What types of stoves exist and what are their advantages?
Scheme and drawings of V. A. Stroganov’s furnace
IMAGE 1 shows a diagram of one of the most technically sophisticated stoves of the 19th century.
A - general draft valve, B - 1 lifting well, C - parallel well structures, D - cleaning door, D - draft suction, E - furnace door, F - grate bars, K - ash door, L - firebox floor, M - chamber afterburning.
This stove can easily be converted into a cooking and heating stove if the firebox is moved to the side of the stove, the stove is equipped with a stove, and the bottom of the smoke ducts is lowered to the floor level.
A feature of this furnace, which was developed by V. A. Stroganov, is the presence of:
- afterburning chambers;
- technically competent distribution of the location and direction of the channels, which allow uniform heating of the entire area of the stove's smoke wells;
- calibrated direct draft suction hole;
- only one cleaning door, which allows you to simply and easily clean all wells; if there is a need, through it it is possible to get rid of the overturning of the draft in the stove;
- grates and the stove's firebox, which are arranged at thoughtful slopes, which contributes to more efficient combustion of fuel residues than in stoves that have a strictly horizontal arrangement of the stove's firebox and grate.
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Heating stove made of bricks by Sergei Mikhailov (drawings)
A diagram of the next furnace is shown in IMAGE 2.
A - general draft valve, B - stove, C - front view of the chimney section, D - fire door, D - exit to the first well from the firebox (hilo), E - side view of the chimney section, F - firebox, I - stove, K - Hailo, L - side view of the cross-section of the stove firebox.
A heating stove with horizontal smoke wells is good because it does not require clear and strict fixed markings at the chimney outlet. IN old times Only a senior furnace master could carry out such markings. Laying the first row and marking the foundation was never trusted to apprentices. The reason for this strict subordination was not formality, but the importance of making a fatal mistake.
The main advantages of a furnace with horizontal wells:
- Does not require precise calculation when marking the first row.
- It warms up evenly (the hottest parts of the stove, which allow for intensive heat removal, will be located at the bottom, and the less hot ones will gradually move to the upper zone of the room that is heated).
- Cools down evenly (heat from the lower rows of the stove will gradually be transferred to the upper rows). The period of furnace cooling and intense heat transfer is the same period, which is measured in several hours. This is another advantage of a stove with horizontally located smoke channels.
- Allows arched dryers to be built into the stove masonry without any problems.
There are other auxiliary drawings and diagrams of the furnace by Sergei Mikhailov:
- Sergei Mikhailov's stove with a built-in niche-dryer in a side section shows IMAGE 3, where A is a valve, B is a door for cleaning, C is a dryer, D is another door for cleaning, D is high, E is a side view of a section of a smoke well.
- Schemes of wells, winter and summer options, are shown in a side section by IMAGE 4, where A is a valve for winter, B is a valve for summer, C is high.
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Original brick stove by Sergei Mikhailov
This stove allows the owner to heat it once a day even in the event of prolonged frosts, down to -35 degrees Celsius. The air temperature in the room will never drop below +19 degrees Celsius.
The author's heating stove by Sergei Mikhailov is shown in IMAGE 5, where A - valve for winter, B - high for summer, C - entrance to well 5, D - valve for summer, E - section of 2 rows, E - entrance to well 7, F - section of the wells of the bottom row, I - firebox, K - pipe, L - exit from well 8 to 6, M - section of row 3.
IMAGE 6 shows the author's fireplace stove by Sergei Mikhailov, where A is an empty well structure, B is the entrance to 1 well, C is a sun lounger, D is the entrance to 2 wells, D is a firebox, F is a section of the 1st row, I is the entrance to 3 well, K - high, L - cut 3 rows, M - entrance to the 3rd well, N - valve, O - valve, P - sun lounger, P - firebox, S - cut 4 rows, T - trenches, U - numbering of sections, F - side view of a vertical section.
Diagram of a well in a side section: A - valve for winter, B - valve for summer, C - high.
A feature of this type of stove is:
- The presence of a high (remote) lounger.
- The absence of a stove door, which gives the stove many of the advantages of a fireplace with high efficiency.
- Very good heating of the lowest layers of air in residential areas. This is quite important when there is Small child. As you know, they will spend most of their time on the floor.
It is worth noting that in this oven you can bake bread well and evenly. This stove can also be heated only once a day, even if it is the most severe and prolonged frost outside.
Many authors of books about stoves have serious doubts that the stove will be able to maintain heat in the house with the fire door open. This is due to the fact that the internal walls of the smoke well will be cooled with air that does not participate in chemical processes complete fuel combustion. It is worth noting that all this is quite fair, but this does not apply at all to this type of stove. This is because its design does not have any oven door. The reasons in this case will be the following:
Diagram of the heating stove by Sergei Mikhailov: A - valve for winter, B - high for summer, C - entrance to well 5, D - valve for summer, D - section of 2 rows, E - entrance to 7 well, G - section of wells of the bottom row , I - firebox, K - pipe, L - exit from well 8 to 6, M - section of 3 rows.
- The area of the entrance hole is not a fireplace; its height is 25 cm and width is 30 cm. Even the slightest increase in these dimensions can certainly lead to a weakening of the overall draft of the stove and to the fact that it will begin to smoke.
- The oven does not have grates.
- A high stack can significantly slow down the speed of movement of air masses, and the air that slowly passes through the firebox has time to warm up thoroughly. A characteristic feature of this furnace is that after 3 years of intensive operation it will not be possible to scrape up even 500 g of ash residue at the entrance to the first horizontal rise (where a lot of ash most often accumulates).
There are a large number of different stoves that can be used both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some models are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.
In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own achievements and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.
Criteria for choosing a brick kiln
If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the stove, but also to its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.
When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.
Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.
Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.
For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space, which can be used for other needs.
Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.
Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:
| Room area, m² | Furnace surface, m² | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway | |
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.
Types of brick stoves
As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.
- There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, ash chambers and cleaning chambers pass.
- Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.
- Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.
- There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and winter. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.
Choosing a place to install the stove
It is important to provide right place furnace installations. Optimal place is the crosshairs of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from the front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.
When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:
- The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
- When constructing a stove, it is necessary to provide a separate foundation for it, not connected to the foundation of the house.
- The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being built in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
- For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles on the floor in front of the fire door.
Basic design of a brick kiln
To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider basic design heating structure:
- The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
- The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
- An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
- Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.
- The flue ducts running inside the stove may have different configurations in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
- The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.
One of the most important conditions The effective operation of the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.
Materials for building a stove
An important issue for the long-term functioning of the stove is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not skimp on them. To build a building you will need:
- Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
- Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact quantity can be found out from the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
- Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
- Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.
- Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
- Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.
Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.
Heating stove V. Bykov
This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.
The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.
The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. On appearance it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but the side walls account for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts only 280 kcal/h. The cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.
Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.
The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.
The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by horizontally laid bricks. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.
For this stove model you will need the following materials:
- Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
- White fireclay brick SHA -8 - 197 pcs.
- Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
- Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.
Order of the Bykov furnace
The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.
| Order | Description of work |
|---|---|
 | This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks. |
 | Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles. |
 | 1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks. |
 | Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks. |
 | Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door. |
 | 4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is covered with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks. |
 | Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used. |
 | Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks. |
 | The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row. |
 | Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram. |
 | Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks. |
 | Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾. |
 | Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used. |
 | The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used. |
 | Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used. |
 | Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks. |
 | The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces. |
 | The 23rd row is also laid according to the pattern and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. A row will require 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two. |
 | Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness. |
 | Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks. |
 | Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks. |
 | 31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it. |
 | Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks. |
Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina
The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.
Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin
Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.
This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be more sizes the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.
To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:
- Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
- Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
- Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
- Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
- A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
- Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.
Furnace laying
The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.
Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.
Another trick experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.
This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.
When carrying out masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.
So, the laying is done as follows:
Order - from 1st to 6th row
- The first, continuous row of the oven is laid on laid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
- 2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element will be completely installed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
- 3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.
- 4 row. Work in progress according to the diagram, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
- It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.
- 6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.
- 7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
- Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
- 10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
- Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.
Order - from 13 to 24 row
- From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
- 16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips, is completed. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
- Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
- 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
- Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
- 22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
- 23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
- 24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.
- 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
- 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
- From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
- 31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
- 32-33 rows. In this area of the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.
When laying a pipe through the attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable construction materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.
If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.
The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This one is shown in the video.
A chimney in a private house may have different design. One option is to arrange the channels in a horizontal plane.
Options for installing smoke exhaust ducts
Modern chimneys can be not only vertical, but also horizontal.
There are only two main design options:
- The removal of combustion products through the wall is, as a rule, steel chimneys, which are installed for geysers and parapet gas boilers. Such a chimney is also called coaxial;
- The removal of combustion products through the ceilings and roofing is usually made of brick chimneys, which are installed for solid fuel stoves. This chimney is called a “snake”.
A steel chimney is not easy to install, but very simple. You just need to make a hole of a given diameter in the wall and connect it to heating or water heating equipment using a pipe in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, then seal the cracks and that’s it.
But with a stove chimney, in which a horizontal section is combined with a vertical section several times, the matter is much more complicated. Let's look at this technology in more detail.
"Snake" and heating efficiency
So, we will talk about the so-called horizontal multi-turn structures, in which horizontal channels are connected to each other by vertical ones. The main difference from vertical chimneys is more effective use thermal energy generated by burning fuel. Hot gases always point upward. Therefore, each horizontal section is heated most efficiently by flue gases passing through it (see diagram).
Basic Rules
A brick chimney should:
Accordingly, the height will be 65 + 65 = 130 millimeters, add another 5 millimeters per layer of solution and get 140 millimeters. As a result, the horizontal chimney will have a cross-section of 125x125x140 millimeters;
- There should be as few sharp corners as possible. A large number of sharp corners can lead to turbulence, which significantly impairs draft and prevents the normal movement of combustion products. Therefore, it is necessary to smooth out the sharp corners on the overlap of the smoke channel. Just chip off the sharp corners of the last brick, but only carefully and carefully, using a grinder;
- The channel must have smooth walls.
Installation technology
In order to lay out the chimney, we need to lay two rows of bricks on a horizontal section. Laying is carried out in the usual way using mortar. Just watch the thickness of the seams so as not to change the cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct.
- This can be done using a regular level and a tape measure;
- If necessary, the brick can be hammered with a hammer with a wooden backing or a rubber tip;
- Remove excess solution. The internal joints of the chimney must be completely filled with mortar.
After the channel is laid out, it is necessary to make a ceiling from the second row of bricks. To do this, we apply a brick without mortar to the channel and determine where the inside will be located. We take a grinder and cut off the sharp corners on the brick.
The solution is applied directly to the brick that is being laid. The bricks and masonry are in full contact with the spoon and butt parts, as well as half of the pastel. So the mortar is applied to them; to do this, the brick needs to be turned over. After the mortar is applied, the brick is turned over and pressed against the masonry with a spoon and the bonding part.
We check the accuracy of the dimensions of the structure with a level and tape measure. Vertical channels must have the same cross-section as the horizontal ones.
In order to clean such chimneys from soot, it is necessary to provide metal doors for cleaning or knock-out damper bricks in each horizontal channel (this is more effective solution, since metal doors significantly reduce draft and overall efficiency of the heating system).
The result of such painstaking work will be a chimney structure located in a horizontal plane, which significantly increases the thermal efficiency of the heating equipment used.
Having dealt with the boilers, it’s time to talk about, having considered different designs chimneys and requirements for their installation.
The chimney for the boiler is designed to remove fuel combustion products into the atmosphere. Actually, any heating boiler, if it is not electric, can only work if there is a properly made chimney.
What chimney designs exist?
Types of chimneys for heating systems
According to the installation method, chimneys are:
- external attachments;
- double horizontal;
- internal vertical.
Based on the principle of connection to boilers, chimneys are divided into:
- separate (separately for each heating boiler);
- combined (the output from, for example, two boilers is combined into one common one, which leads to the street).
Now let's figure out how to properly make a chimney of each type.
Horizontal chimney
The easiest way is to make a horizontal chimney: you just need to make a hole in the wall of the boiler room to the street:
1. Horizontal chimney
Such chimneys are only suitable for forced draft boilers.
External chimney
For such chimneys, forced draft is not needed: exhaust gases are removed due to natural atmospheric draft. With this chimney arrangement, the pipe from the boiler goes through the wall to the street, and then the chimney rises along the wall to the roof:
2. External chimney
The height of the chimney must be at least 5 m from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the chimney (see the following figure).
In the diagram, D1 and D2 are the diameters of the chimney itself and the outlet on the boiler. So these diameters should be equal and according to the standard 130 mm.
The chimney is attached to the wall using additional parts (clamps and support frame).
Internal chimney
The internal chimney immediately rises up from the boiler, passes through all the ceilings and then goes out onto the roof:
3. Diagram of the internal chimney
It is advisable to make the internal chimney two-layer, laying thermal insulation between the layers - to avoid fire from heating the chimney. Thermal insulation prevents the formation of condensation inside the chimney.
Chimney in the wall of the house
The internal chimney can also be mounted in the wall of the house - inside brickwork(see Fig. A below): from the boiler, the pipe goes into a channel inside the wall and through this channel rises to the roof.
4. A - internal chimney, made inside the brickwork; dependence of the height of the pipe on the distance to the roof ridge; B - location of the pipe in the case of an attached boiler room.
Why insulate a chimney?
When any fuel burns, water vapor is produced. The steam cools in the chimney, and at temperatures of 55 degrees and below, the steam condenses and forms water droplets. Water enters chemical reaction With various connections from exhaust gases, which results in the formation of various aggressive solutions. To prevent such cooling, the chimneys are made double and insulated.
Requirements for the chimney device
In addition to the above, let's look at the diagrams of how chimneys are arranged.
Vertical design. If the boiler is floor-mounted and the floors are combustible, there must be a fireproof substrate under the boiler: an asbestos sheet plus a metal sheet.
Chimney passage through a wooden wall(and in general a wall made of combustible material) must have a fireproof seal of at least 0.5 meters around the chimney.
The next requirement is length of the horizontal section of the chimney: from the axis of the boiler to the axis of the chimney, which is on the street, should be no more than 2 meters, otherwise the draft will be poor.
On the section of the pipe located on the street, the pipe has two layers and thermal insulation is laid between the layers to prevent condensation in the pipe. But in any case, there must be a pocket at the bottom of the vertical section of the pipe for cleaning and draining condensate.
In Fig. 3 a chimney that runs vertically through the ceilings: in this case, through the ceiling and roof. The requirements are the same here. The requirement is also added: from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the pipe, the distance is at least 5 m.
Chimney diameter for gas boiler , set by the manufacturer, must be equal to the diameter of the chimney leaving the room. It happens that boilers with a smaller chimney diameter (about 80 mm), then the internal diameter of the remaining chimney must be at least 130 mm. All these requirements must be taken into account, because if you do not do it right, you will have problems commissioning gas equipment.
The following diagram (Fig. 4, A) considers the option when the chimney pipe is embedded in the channel of the outer wall. The following requirements must be met here: there must be a cleaning hatch below the pipe entrance to the wall channel. It happens that in cold weather sparrows, pigeons, etc. sit on the top of the chimney, they suffocate from carbon monoxide and fall into the chimney. Naturally, all this garbage will accumulate until the entire chimney is clogged.
How high should the chimney be?
Let's consider how the outlet of the chimney itself can be positioned relative to the roof (Fig. 4, A, B, C).
If the pipe is at a distance of 1.5...3 meters from the ridge, then the pipe is brought to the level with the ridge.
If the distance from the pipe to the ridge is less than 1.5 meters, then the pipe should be located at least 0.5 m above the ridge.
In diagram B, the boiler room is attached to the house, while the requirements for the height of the pipe are the same as if the pipe was located on the roof.
Why is it important height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge? To strong wind when air turbulence occurs, the igniter in the boiler does not blow out.
Here are answers to basic questions about how to make a chimney correctly.
how to make a chimney correctly
Good afternoon, dear reader!
In today's article we will learn how to save money. Moreover, taking into account the price of heating raw materials, the funds are quite considerable.
A horizontal chimney will help with this. Installing it instead of the usual vertical pipe will save us thousands of rubles.
So, make yourself comfortable, let's begin.
Horizontal chimneys are sections of the chimney parallel to the floor, in one form or another passing between the stove and the exit to the roof. Performed in three types:
- In the form of a branch from the main one. Maximum length“lying” part - 1 m.;
- Fully, with minimum height vertical pipe sections. Exited to the street through a hole in the wall of the house;
- Snake (only in brick version).
The working surface area of a horizontal chimney is many times larger than that of a conventional one.
In what cases is installation necessary?
- The boiler or furnace should be connected to an outlet located far away. There are situations when indoors for certain reasons vertical pipe impossible to install. In these cases, it is taken outside the room and connected to the stove using the above-mentioned pipeline;
- The stove (boiler) has a low heat transfer rate, it is less than what is required for the heated area, and cannot cope with providing heat for the entire room. Here the horizontal section of the pipe acts as a kind of battery;
- If the heat source is not connected to coolants. This is especially true for a stone (brick) stove, which transfers heat inside the room due to the cooling of the masonry. In this case, the use of multi-turn chimneys (snakes) is most justified.
What is the difference from a coaxial chimney
Conclusion
A horizontal chimney is a complex design, but its difficulty is justified by the reduction in heating costs.
Ergonomics are an extremely important factor for a comfortable existence. And it’s better to make some efforts once than to overpay for energy for years.
And I say goodbye for today. I'm waiting for you in our communities - join, read, share the news. We always have plenty useful tips and interesting information.
25.10.2017
3364
Pechnik (Moscow)
A horizontal chimney differs in its structure from the classic vertical structures that we are used to seeing. Coaxial type systems are most often used and installed, since they are easy to install (it is enough to simply drill a hole of a suitable diameter in the wall, insert and secure the pipe, and seal all gaps). By watching the video in this article and reading the selected information, you will learn more about what such exhaust systems are.
Main withdrawal methods
First of all, you should know that a horizontal chimney can be installed in one of two main ways, namely:
- The exit is carried out through the walls of the building. This option is one of the simplest; systems belonging to this type are steel coaxial pipes with insulation. This is mainly how gas or parapet equipment is installed;
- Pipes are routed through the floors and roof of the building. Such designs are more complex in design and are more suitable for stoves operating through solid fuel. The main material for assembling such chimneys is brick. Popularly, such systems are called nothing more than “snake”.
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Requirements |
Descriptions |
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Same cross section
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Installation of horizontal chimneys is carried out with strict adherence to the cross-section and diameter of each channel. However, it should always be the same. For assembly, it is preferable to use refractory bricks (ceramics). With its dimensions of 25x12x6.5 centimeters, it can be determined that half of it will correspond to the following indicators: 12.5x12x6.5 centimeters. This means that by blocking the horizontal channel with the help of a vertical one, the width and length parameters will be 12.5 centimeters, with a height of 6.5 centimeters (a total of 2 = 13 cm will be required). It is equally important to add to the obtained indicators a few centimeters, which will be needed to insulate and seal the space. In total, we add another 1 cm to 13 and get 14. The final cross-sectional size will be 12.5 by 12.5 by 14. |
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Smooth lines
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Both the external and internal parts of the system, if possible, should not contain sharp corners and outlines. Failure to comply with this requirement can lead to deterioration in the operation of the traction mechanism (what to do if there is no draft in the chimney), as well as excessive accumulation of soot in the corners. |
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Smoothness
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The horizontal chimney diagram will allow you to make sure that only pipes with a perfectly smooth inner surface, without roughness or chips, will work at full capacity and will not become clogged. |
Advice:horizontal chimneys, diagramswhich you can find in this article may have sharp corners. To remove them, use a grinder (for brick structures). However, do not forget that all connections, seams and joints must be completely sealed.
Rules for installation work
In order to carry out the installation yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the following rules and requirements for carrying out this work. The instructions allow us to conclude that during the work we will need to lay out the brick in two rows and use mortar for adhesion. During the work, make sure that all seams are the same size - this will allow you to maintain an equal cross-section along the entire length of the chimney:
- At each stage of work, be sure to use a building level and tape measure;
- You can knock bricks using a hammer with a wooden backing or a rubber end;
- Fill each seam completely, and remove all excess in a timely manner, without waiting for it to dry. This will make the seams as even as possible and the surface smooth.
Conclusion
The maximum length of the horizontal section of the chimney is no more than half a meter (eight bricks wide, with a length of three), however, this can significantly vary depending on the characteristics of the house itself and the type of heating equipment.
Channels located in a horizontal direction have an area several times larger than that for vertical installations. To assemble one, you need to take into account many different nuances and rules, and it is best to entrust the work to a professional.
Maintain the same thickness of seams
Maintain the same thickness of seams
Tip: after the edges of the brick are cut with a grinder, we recommend additionally going over them with a grinding machine.
Standards taken as a basis by professionals, according to the size of the brick:
- 26x26 centimeters (one whole brick);
- 26 by 13 centimeters (one brick for half of the second);
- 13x13 (half the first brick, half the second).
Important: the standard parameters indicated above are taken as a basis, since the use of other indicators can negatively affect the productivity of the heating unit and, in turn, worsen the performance of the draft or increase it to an unacceptable maximum. Very large section channels, leads to the formation of an excess amount of condensate, which does not have time to drain and evaporate, which negatively affects brick construction, and it begins to collapse under the influence of the resulting acids. This soon leads to destruction of the brick and disruption of the tightness of the seams. A small pipe diameter, on the contrary, can lead to overheating of the structure (temperature above 250 degrees) - this also leads to destruction, cracks and deformation of the brick.
The number of cleaning doors must correspond to the number of horizontal sections. For example, five cleaning doors (one for each) are installed on five channels. If the design allows, the number of cleaning compartments can be reduced, since because of them the efficiency of the structure is significantly reduced (different coefficients of thermal expansion for metal and brick). The chimney itself, in addition to its smooth internal structure, tightness of seams, joints, connections, must be assembled exclusively from gas-tight, fire-resistant materials. It must also have good tolerance to acids and condensate, and be resistant to mechanical stress.
A horizontal chimney can be equipped both for gas boilers and for drying ovens and models that have not only a heating function, but also hob, oven. Coaxial pipes allowed to be installed in brick and wooden buildings, while the requirements for brick chimneys more rigid, and installation is more difficult and requires experience and assembly skills.