Aerated concrete walls in the bathroom. Wall finishing made of aerated concrete. How to plaster aerated concrete. Waterproofing barrier for floor

Gas and foam concrete are characterized by high vapor permeability, and this determines the nuances of selecting building materials for internal lining buildings. IN warm room There is always water vapor in the air, which easily penetrates deep into the aerated concrete wall, cools there and condenses. The block is getting damp. To prevent this, it is important to carefully select finishing building materials for the interior, whose performance vapor permeability should be much lower than at the walls. The same thing determines the choice of façade cladding material, which must have even greater vapor permeability so as not to interfere with the free escape of moisture vapor accumulated by the walls to the outside.

Attention: Vapor barrier of walls made of aerated concrete or gas silicate is carried out indoors, and not on the facade. It does not matter whether the building is insulated outside or inside, or not, and whether the façade is lined or not.

Please tell me when laying bathroom walls from aerated blocks, do they need to be treated with something? As I understand it, gas blocks absorb moisture well; can they even be placed in the bathroom? Thanks in advance for your answer!

Answer: Yes you are right, aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, and in the bathroom you know there is always high humidity air. Having such a high ability to absorb moisture, aerated concrete blocks can be used for the construction of walls and partitions in bathrooms only after protective waterproofing measures have been taken after the construction of the walls.

The first thing you have to do is prime the entire surface of the bathroom walls with a deeply penetrating primer, for example ST-17 from Cerezit. The soil will provide you with the preparation of aerated block walls for applying a leveling layer of putty, for example ST-29.

Puttying the walls must be done very carefully, since a layer of putty will protect your aerated concrete from moisture. After the putty layer has dried, it is necessary to treat the floor and wall surfaces to a height of 200 mm from the floor level with waterproofing cement based Ceresit CR 65. Well, then tile moisture-resistant adhesive CM-17 from the same company and calmly lay ceramic tiles on the walls of your bathroom. After completing such work, you will reliably protect bathroom walls made of aerated blocks from moisture.

Foam concrete is an excellent heat and sound insulating material; blocks made from it are light, pliable in processing, and easy to lay. Internal partitions in the house can be built from blocks with your own hands without special effort and financial costs.

A bathroom and toilet made of foam blocks will be no worse than a cast sanitary cabin made of asbestos cement, partitions made of brick or plasterboard, but performance noise insulation of rooms will far exceed the performance of other materials.

In the article we will talk about brands of foam blocks for interior work, the technology for constructing partitions and methods of protecting bathroom walls from moisture.

Advantages of foam concrete blocks

You can build partitions in the house (see), separate the bathroom from the living area, and properly organize the space in the apartment using various materials. But foam blocks are in special demand due to their unique technical and operational properties(cm. ).

What attracts builders so much in this material:

• Light weight Compared to other materials, it does not exert much pressure on the ceiling.
• The dimensions of the blocks can significantly reduce the construction process time.
• Due to the ease of processing foam concrete, it becomes possible to execute architectural forms various configurations (niches, arches, etc.).
• Partitions made of foam concrete are easy to redevelop.
• High sound insulation qualities.
• Complete fire safety.
• Affordable price.

The disadvantages include:

• The material has high moisture absorption; therefore, a number of measures will have to be taken in the bathroom to protect the walls from moisture.
• Due to their porosity and softness, foam blocks have some restrictions on load, that is, hanging heavy cabinets on the walls is quite problematic. But this issue is easily resolved using a special one.

How to choose the right material

In order for the laying of foam blocks in an apartment to be of high quality, even and reliable, you need to choose the appropriate material.

For partitions, blocks of the following sizes are used (length x height x width):

• 600 x 300 x 150 mm.
• 600 x 300 x 100 mm.
• 600 x 200 x 75 mm.
• 600 x 200 x 50 mm.

Since the partition for the bathroom is self-supporting, that is, it is not subjected to any loads from above (ceiling, roof, etc.) and only holds its own pressure, foam concrete grade D400–D500 with strength class B2.5 is usually used for such structures.

Important! The thickness of the blocks is taken equal to or greater than the width door frame, later it will be easier to get door slope, than to think about how to refine the jamb protruding from the wall.

It is believed that for internal partitions the most optimal ratio price and quality is a block 100 mm thick, this will be quite enough to prevent noise washing machine in the bathroom or the sound of running water could not be heard from the room. Between the bathroom and the toilet you can lay a partition 75 mm thick.

The foam block must meet the following characteristics:

• Accurate geometric and linear dimensions.
• A homogeneous surface without dark spots, various inclusions, etc.
• No cracks, chips, dents or bulges.
• Light gray color, partial or complete change of which indicates violations in the technological process.

We must remember that the smoother the surface and more precise the dimensions, the easier it will be to finish the walls (see), so you should select high-quality blocks.

Adhesive for foam blocks

Since the amount of work is not large, it will be better if the laying of foam blocks in the apartment is not carried out on cement-sand mortar, and for special adhesive mixtures (see), which include:

• Cement.
• Fine sand.
• A modifier that keeps the mixture from premature cracking.
• A plasticizer that penetrates deep into the pores of foam concrete and ensures reliable adhesion of the blocks to each other.

The composition of the mixtures is similar to the structure of foam concrete, and after the glue has completely set, the wall acquires strength and solidity.

The seam between the blocks is made up to 3 mm thick, no more, so for 1 m2 of masonry, depending on the brand of the mixture used, the glue consumption will be approximately 2 to 6 kg, which is 4–6 times less than when using cement-sand mortar.

Important! When mixing the glue, the preparation instructions must be strictly followed, otherwise the adhesive properties of the solution will be impaired, which can lead to a weakening of the strength of the partition.

Key points of partition masonry technology

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the partition on the floor and wall, then, to lay the first row, install beacons along the marking to prevent the blocks from shifting during work.

Can be used as guides metallic profile for drywall:

• First row of blocks.

If the wall is placed on a cement base, then it is enough to cover it with a primer and lay a layer of mortar under the blocks; when the floor is wooden, then to firmly fix the first row, it is recommended to screw in anchors or pins. We must remember that how accurately the first row lies, the partition will look even and aesthetically pleasing.

• Subsequent rows.

Since the thickness of the partition is relatively small, the foam block masonry in the bathroom every 2-3 rows should be reinforced with a masonry mesh or separate rods (see), the ends of which should be drilled into load-bearing wall no less than 100 mm. In addition, securing the reinforcement will connect the existing wall and the new partition into single design and will eliminate the risk of wobbling, shifting or, in the worst case, collapse of the partition due to possible mechanical impact.

The doorway is also covered with two reinforcement rods or a corner, on which the blocks are then laid. If possible, you can use a standard jumper.

• The last row.

If, when bringing the masonry to the ceiling, a small gap remains, then it is sealed with polyurethane foam.

• The junction of two partitions.

If a separate bathroom is planned, then the partition separating the bathroom and toilet is also reinforced and the ends of the rods are laid between the blocks of the first partition and drilled into the load-bearing wall, thus creating a reliable connection.

That's all there is to it technological process masonry partitions. But there are a few subtleties that you need to know when working with foam concrete:

• The laying of foam blocks in the bathroom must be carried out with mandatory bandaging of the seams, that is, the seams of each subsequent row should not coincide with the underlying ones, the shift is made by about half a block.
• Foam concrete absorbs moisture well, so in order to avoid moisture absorption and premature drying of the adhesive mixture, the blocks must be moistened with water before laying it.
• Due to the thinness of the partition, when laying several rows in a row, the wall may shift in plane, so it is recommended to let the glue set after each row.
• After completing the work, you need to putty the seams, various defects that arose during the masonry process, clean the surfaces from excess glue and allow the partition to dry thoroughly. After this, cover the wall with two layers of waterproof deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely and begin further finishing work.
• All electrical and plumbing work is carried out after the glue has completely set; curing times should be looked at on the packaging with the mixture. Since foam concrete lends itself well to drilling, it will not be difficult to install pipes or install wiring.

Protection of foam concrete from moisture

The bathroom is considered the dampest room in the house, so the foam block masonry must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into the concrete body.

This is done in several ways:

1. Plastering walls followed by coating with waterproof compounds (paint, varnish, etc.).

Since foam concrete is a rather soft material, it is recommended to attach a fiberglass reinforcing mesh to the walls before applying the plaster mortar. This is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface of the foam blocks and obtain a better coating.

1. Moisture resistant cladding decorative panels or slabs (siding, PVC panels And so on).

It is produced by frame or frameless method. In the first case, a frame is mounted under the panels, on which the panels are hung; in the second version, the slabs are glued directly to the wall.

With this finish, the foam block masonry in the bathroom will be especially susceptible to dampness, so it is necessary to place a frame or facing material attach a vapor barrier membrane to the walls, which will not allow moisture to penetrate inside the masonry, but will lead it out.

In a separate toilet, it is not necessary to take such measures, but still experts recommend laying a vapor barrier at least pointwise, in problem areas– around pipes, vents, doorways, where condensation may occur.

1. Cladding with decorative ceramic tiles.

In this case, the tiles will perfectly protect the foam concrete from dampness; only it is advisable to make the seams between the tiles as thin as possible and caulk them with a special grout containing moisture-resistant components. When using a simple mixture, mold or mildew may develop. But for ideal installation of tiles, it is advisable to level the walls and soak them special compounds deep penetration.

In conclusion, it must be said that the use of foam blocks for laying bathroom and toilet partitions is the fastest and most profitable option, which even a non-professional can handle. And with proper protection from moisture, a bathroom made of foam concrete will last for many years without repair.

If something remains unclear, we suggest looking at the photos and videos in this article, which will give a more complete picture of this topic.

The ability of aerated concrete material to absorb moisture is caused by its cellular structural structure, formed during the manufacture of blocks. At the same time, the aerated concrete retains the accumulated moisture inside itself. The degree of water absorption is explained by the fact that the voids in the blocks are not only closed, but also open. Aerated concrete cells absorb about six to eight percent moisture because they are hygroscopic. Taking into account this feature, protection of aerated concrete from moisture from the outside must be organized. It is performed not only for walls whose construction has been completed, but also during transportation of material and its storage.

Why protection is needed

The structure of an aerated concrete block is similar to a sponge.

The stone is able to “breathe”, while being distinguished by high thermal insulation and sound insulation capabilities. Absorption of water in significant quantities causes deviations in these indicators towards their deterioration. To exclude such a manifestation, it is necessary to waterproof the aerated concrete.

Note that the blocks are actively saturated with moisture during rain, wet snow, spring season. If you do not protect their surface, the material will absorb up to thirty-five percent of its water content. total weight. A room built from such material will be damp and cool. In addition, wet blocks when severe frost may crack.

Moisture can penetrate into blocks in three ways: through a poorly made foundation, from the outside in the form of precipitation, from the inside due to poor air conditioning or during flooding.

Methods of protection

Blocks are protected in two ways:

1. Hydrophobization of aerated concrete - the use of compounds supplied in ready-to-use or concentrated form. They do not form a film on the surface, but at a certain depth they form a layer that repels moisture. The vapor permeability of the surface remains virtually unchanged; water partially evaporates without getting inside. This type of coating does not change the shade of the surface and improves the material’s resistance to frost. Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete can be used for silicate or ceramic brick wall, concrete, limestone, granite, shell rock and even paving slabs.
2. Waterproofing is the second way to protect aerated concrete from moisture. In this case, experienced specialists claim that the negative impact of water on the material in most cases can be eliminated the right device walls Ideally, the “pie” of the wall should be composed so that the outer layers are more vapor permeable than the inner ones. This will make it possible to remove some of the moisture from the room and protect the object from water entering from the street.

Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete penetrates to a depth of 0.5 to 5 cm and is fixed within a day.

How to treat aerated concrete blocks from moisture outside? There are several popular ways to do this:

• The walls from the inside are primed and covered with plaster. This measure allows you to create a vapor barrier. Regular plaster compositions in this case they are not suitable, since aerated concrete begins to absorb moisture from the room, and plaster layer cracks and peels off. It is best to use gypsum-based compounds;
• Treatment of aerated concrete from moisture can be done with decorative tiles, stone, etc. Decorative material will create reliable protection for aerated concrete surfaces;
• external walls can be lined with bricks, leaving a gap for ventilation;
• the façade is finished with siding panels. This method is considered somewhat worse than installing brickwork, because after completing the work it leaves a large number of hidden problems. Naturally, this finishing option looks attractive, and its cost is more acceptable. But there is one problem - the operational period of aerated concrete is reduced;

• the walls are finished with reinforced concrete sandwich panels, which are based on concrete with a high resistance to moisture;
• at finishing works The walls are waterproofed under aerated concrete blocks so that moisture does not penetrate into the room through the foundation. For this purpose, during the construction of the wall, the blocks are laid at a height of thirty to fifty centimeters from the surface of the earth.

The external attractiveness of a building constructed from aerated concrete material should be maintained not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

Periodicity repair work depends on wisely selected materials and compliance technological features carrying out work.

When performing internal work, we adhere to two main principles:

• strive to maintain the vapor permeability of the material;
• create maximum vapor barrier inside the rooms.

Vapor-permeable finishing is done with plaster solutions consisting of gypsum, sand, and lime. In this case, primer impregnation for aerated concrete against moisture is not used. Wallpaper is perfectly applied to such a surface.

With vapor barrier everything is much simpler. Most easy option– place plastic film under any finishing material. But in practice, the method is not used, since the walls swell due to accumulated moisture.

An excellent solution is hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete, which is applied in several layers.

Now let's figure out how to protect aerated concrete from moisture with outside. An object whose walls are completely finished must be maintained for no more than six months. This period is necessary for the block material to completely shrink and dry.

It is recommended to carry out external finishing after the internal work has been completed. This is due to the properties of the transition of vapors from the inside to the outer part of the walls and then to the street. If the sequence is violated, cracks will appear in the aerated concrete structure in any case. This will cause the plaster layer to peel off, reducing the service life of the building.

Option exterior finishing can take place in two directions:

• a ventilated façade system is created;
• external surfaces are plastered.

It is quite rare to find objects that have a combined version of block protection. Ventilated facades are lined brickwork, sheathed with siding and slabs imitating natural materials.

Choosing a plastering material that provides optimal protection is quite difficult, because aerated concrete blocks have the ability to “breathe”. Vapors and moisture move in two directions, causing peeling and crumbling of the plaster layer.

The optimal solution is the use of porous plaster compositions.

When choosing such a material, it is necessary to take into account a number of its properties:

• high level of adhesion;
• low level of capillary moisture absorption;
• minimal shrinkage;
• resistance to frost and other atmospheric conditions.

Suitable for processing the base plaster mortar, different:

• good adhesion;
• high strength and moisture-repellent effect;
• increased frost resistance.

Experienced craftsmen will always tell you which water repellent for aerated concrete is better. In addition, they will be able to give useful tips for the conduct of work.

You should not leave aerated concrete material open, because during rain it will become saturated with moisture, and some of its properties will deteriorate.

Should not be carried on construction works from such material from the end of the autumn season to mid-spring. At the same time, it is not advisable to plaster the walls, since the material contains a lot of moisture. You shouldn’t rush to install the plaster layer either. If you do not maintain it for a certain time, a layer with a low level of vapor permeability will be created on the block surface.

Do not carry out work in the autumn season. When the heating is turned on, moisture moves towards the street, creating condensation vapors under the plaster. Excess moisture causes the finishing material to crumble.

If short-term conservation of an object is planned, water drainage is ensured from horizontal surfaces. Protective screens are installed on the canopies, and window sill areas are covered with plastic film. The surface of the walls is left open.

We found out how to treat aerated concrete from moisture. It is known from reviews that aerated concrete stones easily transfer some accumulated moisture when the air inside becomes too dry. In such a case, walls made of such material provide moisture.

It must be remembered that the amount of water in the block pores deteriorates the thermal insulation properties of the material. In addition, a wall saturated with moisture creates a load on the foundation, which increases the likelihood of accidents.

Conclusion

Moisture is considered a destructive element. Its presence in aerated concrete material on a constant basis will lead to a decrease in its strength. If you equip the openings with high quality window designs, decorative protrusions and roof drainage systems, waterproof the foundation base, an object made of aerated concrete blocks will be able to be used for a long period without the formation of structural defects on its walls. By performing the work correctly, you will reliably protect the house from premature destruction.

Correctly laid tiles on a foam block or aerated block can increase the strength and moisture resistance of the structure. And such work is most often performed on the walls of bathrooms and kitchens, also providing decoration for their interior.

Foam blocks are construction material, characterized by high heat and sound insulating properties, lightness and relatively affordable price. That is why they are increasingly used for housing construction. However, in addition to its advantages, the material also has a small drawback - the need for finishing that can preserve its characteristics and increase its service life. Internal surfaces of blocks in living rooms require plastering and painting. And sometimes it becomes necessary to put tiles on a foam block - and in order to protect the enclosing structures from high humidity, and for interior decoration.

Possibility of installation

Homeowners who are renovating a foam block house often have a question about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a foam block. The answer to this is positive - however, due to the increased fragility of such a base, pieces of material may begin to fall off along with the tile over time. This situation is prevented by first using a primer and then plaster or special tile adhesive.

Most often, the need to lay tiles on foam blocks arises when finishing the enclosing structures of a bathroom and kitchen. Indeed, in addition to the fact that the humidity here is noticeably higher than in other rooms, there is a possibility of water getting on the foam concrete and, as a result, destruction of the blocks and the appearance of mold. It is worth noting that ceramics can also be laid on the floor in such rooms, however, work with foam blocks is carried out only when finishing the walls.

Tile selection

An important nuance when laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom or kitchen is right choice finishing materials and finishing areas. So, giving preference to the option with ceramic cladding up to the ceiling, you can visually make the room smaller, creating the illusion of a lower ceiling. Therefore, in small bathrooms or kitchens, it is advisable to lay tiles, leaving at least 30–40 cm to the ceiling. And choose smooth materials in cool colors. For large bathroom and kitchen space, an excellent option for tiling foam blocks would be tiles in warm colors.

The dimensions of the tiles should depend on the filling of the premises with furniture and other items ( household appliances and plumbing), their area and height:

• if there are a lot of interior elements, you should choose large tiles or a plain light mosaic;
• For small bath in a minimalist style (installing only the essentials, without washing machine And wall cabinets) perfect option– small square tiles measuring 100 x 100 mm;
• for low rooms, a vertical one is suitable rectangular tiles, For low rooms- square-shaped products.

Glue selection

Before purchasing tile adhesive, you should pay attention to its increased elasticity. And when choosing a method for laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom, pay attention to such a characteristic as resistance to high moisture. For working wall before kitchen stove You should give preference to tiles that can be used at elevated temperatures.

Compositions based on conventional cement-sand mixture type SM9. And among the special options for tile adhesive, mosaic adhesive stands out separately, intended for sticking mosaics on walls. Thanks to the presence of white cement, this material does not have its own shade and provides increased durability of the cladding.

Preparation for installation

Before preparing foam blocks for tiles, you should evaluate the evenness of the wall surface. If the foam concrete laying was done correctly, practically no additional finishing is required. If there are significant irregularities, the contractor will have to do serious work to prepare the foundation and.

Since the foam block strongly absorbs moisture, it is ideal for wet rooms to produce

Applying primer under plaster.

The next stage is priming the blocks. For this, specialized materials are used and a wide range is available. When finishing bathrooms, it is worth doing additional work; in the kitchen such work is not required. Having finished with the preparation, they move directly to the question of whether it is necessary to plaster the foam block under the tiles - as a rule, they choose the option with plaster, which is more expensive, but also provides increased strength to the walls. Tile adhesive is quite suitable for these purposes. , on which the tiles will be laid, proceed to the main part of the work.

Main stages of work

The first stage of laying tiles on a foam block or aerated block (the principle of gluing ceramics to both materials is the same) is preparing the solution. To do this, add a dry adhesive mixture and water to a pre-prepared container, mixing them using a puncher with special nozzle. Mixing proportions are usually indicated on the glue packaging.

Despite the instructions for preparing the adhesive mixture, it is advisable to independently control the mixing process. The finished substance should not be too liquid and without lumps, but also not very hard, so as not to impair the adhesion of the tiles and the wall.

Continuing work, you should:

1. Apply the prepared adhesive mixture using a notched trowel;
2. Place the first tile against the wall and press firmly;
3. Check the horizontality of the material with a level and, if necessary, level the tiles. It takes no more than 10–15 minutes to level the tiles after applying the adhesive. If this time is over, the glue should be removed and reapplied;
4. Repeat the same steps for the next tiles. In order to leave tile seams of equal thickness, plastic crosses are used;
5. If it is necessary to cut tiles, use a tile cutter, running the cutting part of the tool along the marked surface of the tile;
6. Placed in the corners of the room plastic corners, with the help of which smooth seams are ensured. And to bypass the water, gas and heat supply pipelines, they are cut out in the tiles.

After laying all the tiles and drying the material (about 24 hours), the crosses are removed, and. The material for these works is selected to match the tone of the tiles. Excess grout is removed with a sponge. And after 2–3 hours, the lining is wiped again, removing traces of the grout mixture. This completes the tiling of the foam block.

By deciding whether it is possible to glue tiles onto foam blocks, and by giving preference to this option, you get high-quality finished walls, the repair of which may not be done for many years. At the same time, the surface of the enclosing structures is reliably protected from external influences both with the help of plaster and tiles. And such a result can be achieved only with the help of a responsible attitude to work and strict compliance with all requirements.