Modern materials They are made from both natural oils (soybean, tall oil, sunflower, linseed, etc.) and artificial ones, into which polyurethane additives can be added, which increases the wear resistance of the coating. Waxes are mainly of natural origin (carnauba, candelilla, etc.). White spirit is usually used as a solvent.
Now about oils hard wax. The definition of hard wax implies that the composition applied to the floor will increase its hardness and wear resistance. Naturally, there is no solid wax in the package - it is contained in the solution.
There are oil impregnations with a large amount of solvent (dry residue - from 25 to 40%), medium viscosity (dry residue - 40-55%) and thick (80-90% of the main substance). The greater the dry residue, the faster the material dries and absorbs less, which means that fewer layers are required. A composition with a large amount of solvent is used either as a floor care product (penetrating deeply into the wood, it renews and restores the protective properties of the impregnation).
When to use oil
- When covering a variety of exotic wood species, the structure of which contains a large number of natural oils.
- When there are significant changes in temperature and humidity in the room (for example,).
- When covering plank floors, parquet laid on in-floor heating systems, as well as parquet made from capricious species that quickly respond to changes in air humidity in the room.
- During processing wooden floors on open verandas, platforms. Varnish can withstand a certain number of freeze-thaw cycles, while its opponent has no such restrictions.
- When covering wooden floors that are often in contact with water (swimming pools, bathrooms, etc.) - approximately this technology has long been used to treat wooden decks of ships.
- When to add color. You can purchase a ready-made composition of the required color, buy products different colors, which can be mixed with each other. You can also add color using special paste-like colorants.
- To restore and rest your feet, physiotherapists recommend walking barefoot on an oiled floor - this massages your feet, since the coating perfectly preserves the texture of the wood surface, while the varnish evens it out.
Properties of varnish for wooden floors
The material is a solution with some chemicals, which when applied create a film. The thickness of the film depends on the thickness of the applied layer.
Varnish has qualitative advantages, including elasticity, uniformity and high adhesion to wood. There are several types of compositions based on the type of finish: matte, semi-matte or glossy. Also, the choice depends on what room it will be used for: residential or public.
When to apply varnish
- If you don’t want to take care of the coating and...
- When you need to increase the sliding property - this may be relevant in gyms or, for example, dance studios. For residential areas it is rather a minus.
- When there is no desire to feel living tree under your feet. The varnish still neutralizes tactility.
- If you know what will often be required wet cleaning. Varnish is not afraid of moisture, unlike its opponent.
Choosing what to cover a wooden floor with: oil or varnish
Surface protection
The varnish forms a rather thick protective film that lies on the surface of the wood, barely clinging to it, since it is absorbed to a depth of a fraction of a millimeter. The oil penetrates into the thickness of the parquet block, into the pores of the wood, and only a small amount remains on the surface. A protective film as such is not formed, but the wood itself becomes stronger and more wear-resistant. Wax allows you to enhance this effect. If a product with hard wax is used to cover the floor, no additional application of the material is required - almost all of it remains on the surface of the wood. If a wax-free material is used, then it is additionally applied to the surface using a special composition. Compositions with polyurethane additives, as a rule, do not require the use of wax.
The described protection mechanism has certain advantages over varnish film. As you know, wood gains and releases moisture during use. Moreover, if both materials resist the accumulation of moisture approximately equally (they are moisture protection, but not waterproofing), then with its return the picture is completely different. Moisture cannot escape through the varnish film, which is why the coating cracks and peels off. Oiled wood is permeable to vapors, which freely leave it through the pores. As a result, the floor never peels and lasts 8-12 years.
Gloss level
The degree of gloss of oil with and without wax can be different: the surface is matte, silky-matte, semi-matte, semi-gloss, glossy.
As for the degree of gloss, for varnished floors it can even be adjusted, depending on the thickness of the applied layer: from glossy to ultra-matte.
Application technology
Oil application process general case looks like that. Parquet using sandpapers with grains P24, P30, P60 and P80, then the cracks are puttied. Small surfaces can be applied with a soft rubber spatula, roller or wide brush (each manufacturer may have different preferences that should be taken into account). Apply the oil evenly in a thin layer. After this, it is allowed to soak in, and then the excess is removed and the surface is polished. When processing large surfaces in all operations, use grinding machine. If the product is applied in several layers, then the operations are repeated.
Then the oil hardens over a period of time (minimum 12 hours). Before full load (furniture installation), it is advisable to withstand the floor for another 3-4 days.
Applying varnish to parquet is a much longer and more complex process, requiring compliance with a number of conditions. Firstly, the room must maintain a certain temperature and humidity. Secondly, it is important to thoroughly clean the surface. Thirdly, eliminate drafts. You won't be able to make do with improvised means either - you need special tools and clothing. And what is most difficult is that it is impossible to redo the work quickly if there is a mistake, so many people do not risk applying the product themselves.
Care
Maintenance of oiled floors is extremely simple. Moreover, each manufacturing company offers its own set of care products. To do this, you need to add a special product to the water, which, firstly, softens the water and, secondly, removes dirt well. And manufacturers that produce products with wax also renew their coating (they contain hard wax).
As for dry cleaning, it is recommended to treat the floors with a cleaning agent once every six months to a year. It is applied to the floor and rubbed special nozzle for a mop or floor polisher. After it dries, the effect of renewing the floor surface appears.
If we talk about wet cleaning of varnished parquet, only a well-wrung out cloth will do, but detergent must be neutral acidity. During dry cleaning, you can use a vacuum cleaner or broom. It is important to use a vacuum cleaner or mop carefully to avoid scratches, since partial restoration is impossible.
High-gloss coatings increase the appearance of a room, but require more careful maintenance. Floors coated with a matte or silky-matte product are much easier to care for simply because damage to their surface is less noticeable.
Partial restoration
With damaged areas of the oiled floor, proceed as follows: wash the floor using a cleaning product, then strip it down to the wood and treat it with a new layer. After this, if necessary, apply a protective layer with hard wax.
Local repair of damaged varnish coating is not possible, only complete renewal.
Conclusion
Oil on the surface of a wooden floor not only gives it high wear resistance, but also preserves the natural texture of the wood and even the surface topography. The feeling arises that under your foot there is a warm, living tree, not covered with anything. Special formulations much easier and faster to apply than varnish. The oiled surface can be wet cleaned. And most importantly, a floor treated in this way can be restored in parts, and not, as is the case with varnish, by sanding and re-coating the entire surface.
Varnish coating is a wonderful thing. It's beautiful and demanding minimal care. But it requires periodic restoration - a complex and time-consuming procedure.
By the way, when choosing, also pay attention to the possibility of reverse changes. If you want to replace the varnish, it will be quite easy to do: it does not penetrate deeply into the wood and is relatively easy to sand off the surface of the parquet. But with the reverse transition from oil to varnish, problems may arise. The oil penetrates quite deeply into the parquet tiles and it is very difficult to sand off the layer saturated with it - you will have to remove about 2 mm. If with a working layer of parquet of about 7 mm, a loss of 2 mm can somehow be tolerated, then for thinner parquet this is simply unacceptable. But even such deep grinding does not guarantee a successful result. The oil will still remain in the deep pores, which means the floor will need to be coated with a primer.
For various reasons, there may be a need to replace one protective composition with another after their application or after some time of operation of the already treated surface. The desire or need to treat a surface with Oil and wax that was previously varnished or to apply a harder and wear-resistant varnish to the surface instead of oil and wax may be required due to an initially incorrectly selected protective coating for a particular surface of a house or bathhouse or due to a selection error protective composition handler. And also if the customer overestimated the protective characteristics of the composition he chose, made mistakes when using the treated surface as a result of not regularly updating the applied protective finishing coating, or in cases where there is a need to restore damaged areas of wood, which is only possible with impregnation of a different class.
lookapplying Oil and Wax to the Varnish.
The choice between varnish, paint, wood oil and wood wax is best made right away. This will avoid additional costs and some difficulties that may arise when changing the protective coating. different types.
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In order to apply oil or wax to a previously varnished or painted wooden surface, the varnish and paint will have to be COMPLETELY removed. These requirements will have to be met, because Through a hard film of varnish or an oil film, even if cracked and partially, it will be impossible to evenly saturate and correctly apply wood oil, much less thick wax. The only thing that makes the task easier is that the varnish lies directly on the surface of the wood and can be applied quite easily cleared using a sander, grinder, sanding logs or timber, or sanding floorboards or parquet. Once the layer of varnish or paint is removed from the wood, wood oil and wood wax or hard wax mastic can be applied to the wood surface.
If for some reason you decide to apply a protective layer of varnish to a wooden surface that has previously been treated with oil or wax, then the possible result will depend on:
- The type of oil or wax previously applied to the surface,
- Operating time of the oil-treated surface,
- Number of oil layers during surface treatment,
- How many times did the mandatory renewal of the protective layer occur?
- Time that has passed since last update protective layer with oil or wax.
Wax and Wood Oil penetrate quite deeply into the capillary structure of wood and it is usually very difficult to completely remove it, as is most often recommended by many manufacturers, including manufacturers of varnishes and paints.
So we can assume that you will have two options possible solution assigned task:
- If the oil or wax layer is dense enough, then you can try to scrape the surface with a scraper or grind it with a grinder with abrasive attachments with different grains. Looping and grinding can occur to a depth of up to 2 mm. Next, it is recommended to process the cleaned, sanded or scraped wood primer. The primer will bind any remaining oil that has penetrated more than 2 mm into the wood. As a primer, you can use impregnating primers that are recommended by the varnish manufacturer or that you have chosen.
- You can try using a universal one, which quickly polymerizes, i.e. The plastic residues of oil that have penetrated and are located deep in the capillaries of the treated wood will become thick and hard.
We recommend choosing carefully protective covering depending on the conditions of its use and purpose, and do not forget to periodically perform the recommended renewal of the protective layer of the protective impregnation you have chosen.
Find out in detail about the advantages and disadvantages of different impregnations for treating floors on the individual pages of our website by clicking on the links at the bottom of this page or by selecting a ready-made answer to your question in the " " or " " section in the site header. If you encounter any difficulties in selecting the necessary impregnations, call the numbers listed on the website and receive a 24-hour FREE consultation from our specialists.
Find out in more detail everything about finishing protective impregnations, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and glaze on wood:
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← , Wood oil, Furniture oil, Furniture oil, Impregnation on linseed oil
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, Varnish for logs and beams, Floor varnish, Parquet varnish, Wood paint. Azure.
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The varnish will give a representative gloss, the oil will preserve the natural texture of the wood, and the wax will make the surface velvety to the touch. But the problem is that you can’t use them at the same time, although you really want to. You will have to choose, because the tree in any case needs protection, not only from mechanical damage, but also from atmospheric phenomena, high humidity and temperature changes.
It's better to choose natural compositions: oil, wax, glaze and wood varnish based on natural ingredients. They are safe for humans and environment, are odorless, and can be safely used even for treating children's toys.
Moreover, the choice between oil, wax and varnish must be made in advance, because later you may encounter some problems. To change the varnish coating to an oil one, you will need to remove the old varnish layer - this is not difficult, since the layer does not penetrate deep into the wood, but lies on the surface. But varnishing an oiled or waxed surface is a very difficult task. The oil penetrates very deeply into the pores of the wood and hardens, so to remove the oil layer you will have to remove the entire impregnated layer of wood. It is better to give preference to one product and renew the coating as needed.
Wood varnish
Varnish is the most durable coating for wooden surfaces. Depending on the composition, it can be used both indoors and outdoors. Natural wood varnish consists of boiled wood and vegetable oils, resins, natural auxiliaries and solvent. As a rule, water and citrus essential oils are used as a solvent.
Unlike oil, varnish changes the texture of wood, smoothes the surface and gives it a glossy shine. A rather thick film is formed on the treated surface, which penetrates into the pores of the wood only to a small depth. The varnish layer is more susceptible to scratches and moisture than other coatings. Unlike wax, varnish does not impart antistatic properties to wood.
Apply wood varnish with a brush to a clean, dry and sanded surface without dust. Three layers of varnish are considered the most optimal. The first layer is applied by carefully rubbing along the grain and reveals the color of the wood, the second layer gives depth to the color, and the third layer provides shine. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. As a rule, the first layer of varnish raises the wood pile, so after it dries, the surface must be sanded.
You can cover the wood with additional layers of varnish, especially if the surface is subjected to heavy loads, but you need to keep in mind that with each layer the thickness of the coating increases. It is important to very clearly define the boundary between what is necessary and what is sufficient.
Separately, it is worth highlighting floor varnish and yacht varnish, which are the most durable and wear-resistant.
Wood oil
Unlike varnish, oil deeply saturates the wood without changing, but only emphasizing its natural texture. The treated surface remains textured and acquires a slight matte tint. Wood oil betrays surfaces water repellent properties, protects from dirt and does not close the pores, that is, the surface remains “breathable”.
Natural oil is made from vegetable oils: linseed, wood, orange - sometimes with an admixture beeswax. The oil can be transparent and with the addition of coloring pigments to simultaneously tint the wood. Mineral pigments are usually used as dyes.
Wood wax oil is used for parquet flooring. It is practical and durable, but requires proper care. Wood oil is applied in a thin layer to a dry, clean and sanded surface with a wide brush in two or three layers. Excess oil should be removed after each coat. soft cloth lint-free. After the first layer, it is enough to wait 20 minutes, and after applying the finishing layer, the oil should be completely absorbed and harden within about 5-7 hours. If you are covering the floor, it is recommended that there be no load during the day.
Furniture oil may contain a certain amount of wax and this must be taken into account during subsequent waxing.
To protect furniture under open air use special oil for garden furniture, and for various fences, picket fences, and wooden items exterior – garden tree oil.
Wood wax
Wax gives wooden surface antistatic and water-repellent properties, smoothness, silkiness and matte shine. Can be used either independently or for additional protection of surfaces already coated with oil or glaze.
Wax can be solid or liquid with a thick consistency. Natural wood wax is made from beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax with the addition of a solvent. Depending on the consistency, the wax is applied with a brush, a soft cloth that does not leave lint, or a special brush. The wax is applied to the wood in the direction of the grain; the layer should be thin and uniform. After applying the first layer, the wax should be allowed to absorb for about an hour, and then the excess should be removed. To make the wood shine, apply a second layer of wax and polish the surface.
Azure for wood
Azure is a cross between oil and wax, combining the properties of both. Azure deeply impregnates the wood, tints it and at the same time forms a thin protective layer on the surface, protecting the surface from mechanical influences.
mood: working
For those who are still behind fashion and use varnishes) - well-known and not so well-known information about two Maimeri products - glassy and waxy varnish.
I use the first one for a long time, the second one is a recent spontaneous acquisition, so I can’t talk about long-term phenomena in connection with it.
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1. Idea Medium - Glassy varnish, in our sale "Glassy varnish for decoupage" article 5920746
I have been using this varnish for a long time, I recently bought a new jar and some changes were discovered in the new varnish, more about them at the end.
I'll start by describing the features and disadvantages:
- High price
- A large jar, the varnish in which deteriorates before it runs out. The first problem is thickening ( for a long time can be eliminated with a few drops of water; it is better to dilute, of course, in a separate jar). The second is that aged varnish may have a slight yellowness, but visible on white plastic or white tinting (at the same time, white products that were once coated with non-old varnish do not turn yellow).
- The varnish behaves capriciously at work, training is needed to learn how to use it so that there is no defect
Let's list these vagaries and ways to deal with them:
- The varnish does not dry quickly; does not dry well when the layer is thick, forming bumps or individual thin cracks of craquelure-like origin; pulls together a thin plate of plastic.
Therefore, you should use thin layers (2-3 layers), wait long enough before applying a new layer - about half an hour or more, cover a flat plate on both sides to avoid arching (this is noticeable, for example, already on a product 4 millimeters thick). You can try applying varnish onto a flat surface with a brush, but not as thick as epoxy, just so that it spreads and forms a smooth surface without traces of a brush.
- When applied to a bead with a brush, the varnish often looks ugly, so it is better to resort to dipping. Be prepared to make some technical holes in the elements for this process, so that you will have to spend time allowing the varnish to flow off the element with your help and turning the undried one so that no thickening bumps form.
- Bubbles! A complex or porous surface, or a jar was accidentally shaken - and here you have bubbles. You can fight them by blowing them off or quickly re-dipping them, but it’s easier if they don’t appear at all.
- The varnish is very difficult to clean off, you need to proceed as follows: do not soak, wait until it dries and pick it up somewhere sharp knife, remove like a film in pieces.
- Individual colors in Pinata ink (orange, brown) change color when reacting with some varnishes, including this glassy one.
There are some changes in the recently purchased jar, as well as in the post about polishes
The first change is visible in the photo - a slight yellowish haze, but I did not see any consequences for the varnished beads, either on white or black.
The second is more dramatic - single thin cracks in the second and third layers, craquelure-like for reasons, usually in places where the varnish layer thickens. This, of course, potentially increases the number of cases of marriage (
However, if you overcome all the pitfalls when working, you can finally discover the advantages of glassy varnish:
- does not stick after a while;
- mirror-glossy surface;
- great strength.
Actually, I need a varnish like this for cases like in the picture. What was needed here was gloss on a complex surface that could not be polished. Plus, these ribs, made from extruder threads, sat on a very small amount of gel so that it did not cover the lower surface, which was painted with acrylic.
The varnish made everything glossy and removed the fear that the ribs would fall off under mechanical stress. The product currently looks the same as when it was created.
2. Idea Medium - Wax finish, Wax finishing varnish, article number 5920721
In the photo he is on the right.
I read a lot about all sorts of products containing wax, this particular varnish can be perceived as an alternative to a matte or semi-matte coating that protects tinting with acrylic and other paints.
I haven’t discovered any other uses yet =)
The jar must be warmed and stirred before use. It seemed to me that it was most convenient to apply this composition with a tampon in a thin layer.
After 12 hours, with such a thin layer, the smell and stickiness are completely gone, the surface becomes matte - including polished to a real gloss.
All you have to do is decide if you need it =)
I would like to end this post optimistically: accomplices, be courageous) We do not work in the field of wood carving, but with capricious new materials,
Capriciousness is, perhaps, in the order of things here and you need to adapt to it one way or another. Good luck with your creativity!
Heated debates about what is better for parquet: varnish or oil, do not subside. Supporters of oil coatings refer to the environmental friendliness of the product and the possibility of local restoration, but those who stand for varnishing claim that oil mixtures quickly lose appearance. At the same time, matte varnishes are no worse aesthetically, but benefit from practicality. But it’s better to choose a floor covering based on your own preferences, the ability to care for the parquet, visual effects and other nuances. Today there are 4 options for parquet coating: varnish, oil with hard waxes, without waxes and with soft waxes.
Parquet varnish
To understand the advantages, definitions should be given according to several indicators:
- The principle of protection is based on the absorption of the first layer into the wood and the formation protective film each of the subsequent layers. You can apply a couple of strokes of varnish, but still get a durable, wear-resistant coating, but at the same time use a two-component polyurethane varnish for water based.
Important! For heavy traffic, the varnish layer can be applied in 6 or more layers.
- Visual properties are selected depending on preferences: matting substances give different reflective effects and degrees of gloss: from glossy to ultramarine.
- Tactility – important point. Varnishing even with a completely matte composition creates a certain effect. Choose for yourself whether you like to walk barefoot on the film of varnish that covers the parquet, or whether you want to feel natural wood under your feet.
- The environmental friendliness of the composition depends on the presence and volume of solvents. If these are water-based mixtures, then the coating is uniquely clean. When combined with chemical solvents, the varnish becomes unsafe not only during operation, but also for several months due to the evaporation of harmful substances.
- Care and cleaning. Like any professional parquet mixture, varnish requires special means. Delicate, without abrasive substances, complementing the protection with a special strengthening composition - such products will come in handy. It is important to remember that if the varnish wears off, it will not be possible to carry out a local restoration; you will have to remove all the varnish and completely cover the layer on the parquet.
Varnishing the base involves easy care or characterized by the preferences of a client who prefers to see a smooth and aesthetically flat floor. It should be noted that varnishing does not require special tool, a roller or brush is enough. But minimum experience is required. Therefore, if the user has no idea how to varnish a floor, it is better to turn to those who do it professionally.
Parquet oil with hard wax
Compared to varnish, the composition has few differences, but they should also be disassembled:
- The coating imitates “bare wood” after drying, maintaining protective properties comparable to varnish. In fact, this is varnishing, but with oil and wax components. After drying, the protective layer is practically indistinguishable from the varnishing layer in its characteristics.
- Visually, it consists of thin layers, numbering 2, and not 3-4, like a varnish coating, resulting in a matte base that imitates natural wood, with the finest impregnation with oil. The imitation is so perfect that it gives the impression of open pores, although in fact the pores of the wood are reliably clogged with oil and wax.
- Tactility is also excellent. You might think that you are walking barefoot on natural wood, feeling the entire structure of the tiles, but the parquet is reliably protected by a film.
- Environmental friendliness. This is where a surprise awaits the user: many manufacturers are actively promoting products based on wax compounds. But it is not always the case. Truth: all solvents and chemical components their contents comply with the standards adopted by the standards of sanitary and hygienic norms.
- Ease of care is not a problem here. You will have to buy products that are compatible with the brand of protection and provide additional qualities after drying. Local restoration is not possible; if the layers wear out, a complete sanding and recoating will have to be carried out, as is the case with varnish.
This product is chosen by users who are not ready to carefully care for parquet, but at the same time want to get the effect of a floor with a natural finish. To apply the composition, use a roller or a professional brush. At the same time, oil with hard wax does not require polishing, so you can carry out the procedure yourself, of course, with at least minimal experience.
Soft wax oil
This is a product for those who love their parquet, are ready to care for it as carefully as possible and spare no expense. And for valuable wood species, this composition is the most acceptable due to the following qualities:
- Deep impregnation. Representing a coating that does not form a surface film, the composition is literally impregnated into the upper layers of wood, and the wax clogs the pores, hardening firmly in them. Today best example of this composition - Berger 100PrOil. This is a parquet flooring that requires constant maintenance. Without procedures, the layer will quickly lose its appearance and meaning. Unlike varnishing, a composition with soft wax quickly attracts dirt and requires timely cleaning of the parquet and re-processing the base. The process is constant, but you can use wood dies for a very long time without sanding, and the coating can withstand quite heavy loads.
- Visual effect magnificent - it is completely natural wood with a matte, elegant sheen.
- With tactile contact The warmth of the wood is preserved and the entire structure is visible. But from time to time the effect of wet wax and oil sticking will be created, which the user does not always like.
- Environmentally friendly material It is clean, odorless and very comfortable for constant use.
- Cleaning and maintenance are required daily. A special soap composition is added to the water, and you can use a rag or a single-disc machine. After cleaning, oil and soft wax are applied to the base, the composition dries and the floor covering is again ready for use.
Important! The use of the mixture allows you to do both local renovations of the parquet, and you can also completely remove the entire layer and clean the base.
- Wear resistance. This composition is most often used in rooms with high traffic, where it is not possible to frequently re-sand the floor, but it is necessary to keep the parquet in perfect condition for as long as possible.
Professional tools are used for application: polisher, single-disc machine with a white pad, they are also used for cleaning. The wax mixture is applied in two layers with a daily interval.
Natural parquet oil without wax
Perhaps one of the most common compositions after varnishing. It has a lot of advantages and is characterized by the following qualities:
- Deep impregnation. According to its principle of protection, it is a whitish or slightly tinted coating with open wood pores. The effect is achieved through the penetration of oil into the upper layers of the floor, while excess mixture must be removed immediately after the parquet is saturated.
- Visual effect natural wood with a matte tint and open pores. Both colorless oil and tinted oil are used.
Important! Shade colors can be mixed to create new ones color solutions for the floor.
- Tactile characteristics ideal: contact with the natural warmth of the wood without sticking.
- Eco-friendly 100%. The oil, consisting only of natural components, does not emit harmful fumes and has all the properties of a hypoallergenic product.
- Cleaning is required constantly. Wet cleaning using soft soapy compounds is acceptable and it is better to take natural substances specially offered by manufacturers.
The process of using a base with such impregnation implies some leaching of oil from the wood, so you will have to renew the protective layer. Unlike varnish, wood will immediately “show” the lack of oil mixture by dulling and worn areas. Therefore, it is better not to neglect the floors and carry out the impregnation procedure locally. With all its advantages and naturalness, wax-free oil is considered one of the most difficult to care for. It can be used both in high-traffic areas and at home. The frequency of care in the first case will be higher, but the entire procedure will not change. The main advantage of the composition is the extension of the service life of the parquet. It is better to apply it with a spatula, but remove excess with a polisher with a white pad; in local areas, you can remove excess oil with a highly absorbent cloth.
Finally
When choosing compositions for parquet, pay attention to the advice of professionals, when the choice of oil is much better than varnish.