Methods of fastening MDF panels. How to glue MDF panels with liquid nails or attach them to a wall on a wooden frame: cladding options, choice of materials. Fastening MDF panels to the wall

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become increasingly popular, due to the fact that with their help you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, installation of the panels will not take much time, since you will not have to wait for numerous layers to dry, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also helps that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of carrying out such cladding, prepare the surfaces and pay attention to Special attention accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation “MDF” stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this product is produced finishing material, including wall panels. The production of MDF involves the dry pressing of a fine mass of sawdust and wood shavings using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde by chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have more low price than the last one.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to a frame sheathing or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as “liquid nails”. This glue is used not only for installing wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible areas of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected according to color so that the repaired areas do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To make your work comfortable, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, the tools you will need are:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Construction level and plumb line.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and construction corner, simple pencil or marker.
• An electric drill, a screwdriver, or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

Basic methods of installing MDF panels and the materials required for this

To install MDF, you will need certain auxiliary materials. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Installation of panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Glue.
• Frame.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation the basic condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels will stick to the surface, then it must first be leveled with plasterboard or the plaster-putty method.

To install the panels using glue you will need very little auxiliary materials- this is a composition of “liquid nails” and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall using MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or installing insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for installing the panels can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. It must be said that it is easier to attach MDF to wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will no longer be possible to do without them.

When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to inspect the wall. If it is wet, it will need to be dried first and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. To external thin walls nevertheless, it is better not to install such cladding at all, since it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the facing panels on the frame, you will need the following materials:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15×30, 20×30, 20×40 or 20×50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as that used when installing drywall.
• The insulation material is foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help align the guides exactly in one plane.

• Clamps for fastening panels to the frame.

• Small nails or staples for a stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (hangers) or direct guides to the wall.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used for decorating both external and internal joint planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon and then try to eliminate it. There is no way to cover a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles to the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Cleaning the wall.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then it must be completely removed, otherwise closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality wallpaper that is difficult to remove must first be wetted with water or steamed with an iron, and then scraped off with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special compounds for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or painted with high-quality water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall treatment.

In the case where there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be “treated” - treated special composition“Anti-mold” or the usual concentrated laundry bleaching agent - “Whiteness”. Before treatment, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus down to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and thoroughly treat the main wall itself.

“Treatment” of affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, wearing a respirator or a special mask, in order to avoid inhaling particles of fungus-affected plaster.

• Sealing cracks.

If, after removing wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning to place heat- and sound-insulating materials under MDF panels. Cracks must be sealed so that they do not become bridges of cold, and also a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or even mold can find refuge.

The cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster solution to adhere well to the gap in the crack, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of old plaster and processed using a brush.

... and then tightly filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its entire depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is priming the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the occurrence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If you plan to sheathe wooden walls, it is recommended to choose a primer that contains not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of the wood.

The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two or three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation insulation material.

Next, if the panels will be attached to the sheathing, you can proceed to gluing the insulating material. Penofol, which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.

The most convenient to use is penofol with a self-adhesive base.

Today you can find self-adhesive “penofol” on sale - you can very easily fix it on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material is not found, then ordinary “penofol” is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer to the wall surface or directly to the insulation. The “penofol” sheets are pressed to the surface, and the air is expelled from under it using a rubber spatula.

Gluing the joints of adjacent penofol strips with tape

The sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are sealed with special foil tape.

Installation of frame structure

Carrying out marking

If you decide to install MDF panels on a frame, you first need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the sheathing guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The pitch between the sheathing guides is usually selected within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.

To find the ideal vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which you can mark straight lines on the wall. If lines are marked on a foil surface, then immediately after marking, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will be given by laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use a regular construction tool, pushing the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

Based on the markings, it will be quite easy to correctly secure the guide battens.

When marking, you need to take into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the remaining elements, maintaining the established step.

Wooden frame

Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on a wall are still checked with a building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled directly through the beams into which plastic dowels are driven, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fastening elements are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is selected so that they extend into the thickness of the wall by at least 50÷60 mm, and the thickness of the sheathing beam is added to this parameter, taking into account that the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the posts of the sheathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with sheathing, and the bars themselves will have to be secured to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

First, hangers are attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a spacing between adjacent ones of 350÷400 mm from each other. The shelves of the hangers are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then the two outermost beams on the wall are installed, leveled and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed outer guides are connected along the outer edge by stretched cords at the top and bottom (or right and left - if the frame is horizontally oriented) - this will become reference lines (beacons) for the correct installation of the remaining guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared to size are fixed to the wall according to the same principle as wooden blocks, but sometimes for structural rigidity they have liners made of timber. To secure the profile, hangers must be used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit closely to it.

If the frame is installed on wooden wall, then the hangers for attaching the sheathing guides are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on another wall base is necessary, then the hangers are best secured with driven dowel-nails.

If the trim is attached to a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and trims.

Installation of MDF panels on a frame

Before installing the cladding, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and secured under the frame, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked using a tape measure and a construction angle, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is achieved, otherwise the entire cladding will then be skewed.
• The starting panel is installed with a tenon in the corner and secured to the guides on the corner side in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the places where it intersects with the sheathing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. Using metal frame The clamps are fixed using small self-tapping screws with a low head so that, after being fully screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the tenon of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this joining edge is already fixed. Mandatory level adjustment of the panel is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows for a certain backlash. After precise alignment, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue the cladding until the end of the wall (or until the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut according to its thickness so that it fits freely into the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, directly through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from floor to ceiling, and the first panel must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the sheathing follows exactly the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• The panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed is pre-cut round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket box (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a core drill.

The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto cladding panels or to the corresponding sockets of the electrical outlet.

Installation of MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels with glue than with lathing, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, you need to mark a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how you plan to install it.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be checked by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of adhesive for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

— The glue must remain sufficiently plastic even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

— The glue must have a sufficiently thick consistency so that it can be applied in a thick or thin layer, depending on the circumstances, and also be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option- “liquid nails” glue

The “Liquid Nails” composition precisely meets these requirements in terms of basic parameters. The primer with which the walls are treated in advance will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will adhere securely to it.

• The glue is applied to the back side of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first pressed firmly against the wall, and then torn off and left to “weather” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After this, for final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed into in the right place, and is held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition has set securely.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels pointwise or in a “snake” pattern.

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then torn off. Having spread, applied and torn off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second and so on until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the installed tenon of the next one.

• If the trim is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel has dried thoroughly - it is necessary to create reliable support for the rest of the canvases. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last mounted panel, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, lined up and the excess part is sawed off using a jigsaw. In the corner, the last panel is screwed to the sheathing or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final installation elements are corner fittings and plinths. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes using “liquid nails,” covering the heads of the screws that secure the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings(if special profiles are not used - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued with the same glue, installed on special fasteners, or screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall surface. Attaching skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Find out how to produce by reading the step-by-step instructions in the article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing walls with MDF panels

Having become familiar with the technological process of installing MDF panels, we can, to summarize, formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to merits Such finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Quite simple installation with the ability to mount panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish to suit every taste and interior style.
• When installing MDF panels on a frame sheathing, cable communications can be hidden behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable appearance and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• MDF finishes are easy to care for, as the surface only needs to be wiped periodically with a damp soft cloth.
• MDF finishing wall panels have a very affordable price.

Disadvantages Such panels include the following points:

• This type of finishing does not create a perfectly smooth surface, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When attaching such cladding to the sheathing, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, if pre-treatment is insufficient or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans may develop. Very often, especially if walls in a private house are lined, this empty space becomes favorable place for nests or travel routes of rodents.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF is in no way a moisture-resistant material, so if the wall behind the cladding begins to get damp, the panels may swell and the cladding will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, and with absolutely no experience in such work, if, of course, he follows all technological recommendations.

And in conclusion, a small “visual aid” in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to install MDF panels on walls

MDF panels have become widespread not only due to their low cost and environmental friendliness. Do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels is not difficult; it requires only basic care and precision. Create a covering from MDF with good decorative qualities Perhaps, without being a carpenter or finisher, the skills of a home craftsman are sufficient.

What is MDF?

MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - English, HDF - German) is made from wood waste. But they should not be confused with fiberboard or chipboard. MDF is made by dry hot pressing of wood, without a binder. The essence of this method is that microscopic tubes and lignin fibers, of which wood is composed, under high pressure and temperature become plastic, as if steamed, interlock and stick together. The structure of MDF is similar to felt, but not from wool, but from wood fibers.

MDF is not special mechanical properties, but, due to the absence of a chemical binder, are absolutely environmentally friendly. For interior finishing of MDF – perfect option. The techniques for working with MDF are the same as for wood. MDF is glued with any wood glue. An adhesive composition “Liquid Nails” has been developed especially for MDF - a construction adhesive filled with sawdust, which allows both gluing and puttying cracks and sealing holes with self-tapping screw heads.

Note: MDF panels are produced with a decorative outer coating. At the time of buying liquid nails Make sure that the tone of the frozen composition matches the tone of the MDF panels used. A sample is a frozen drop on the lid of a jar, or from the seller.

Tool for the job

Besides the usual home tool you will need a plumb line (it’s easy to make it yourself from a nut, fishing line or thread), a tape measure, a building level and a drill attachment for driving self-tapping screws. You can do without a special screwdriver. You also need a bench square (metal, with legs different thicknesses). It will be convenient to cut pieces for slopes using it: the thick leg is used as a stop, and leaning on the thin leg, they make the cut.

To cut MDF you need a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. The saw is good for its compactness, convenience - it is similar in size and shape to a hair clipper - and versatility. By changing complete circles, you can cut wood, metal, stone. But a saw with a cutting depth of more than 12 mm or more is more expensive than a jigsaw; The thickness of MDF is 16 mm.

Installation technologies

Important: If the room for finishing MDF has been damp at least once, if traces of wetness, swelling or peeling of the plaster are noticeable, if the plaster is lumpy, uneven or its layer is more than 12 mm, then before finishing the MDF the plaster must be removed to the main wall. In any case, it is advisable to remove the plaster - this will reduce the cost of fastening and allow you to identify hidden defects walls Of course, the baseboards also need to be removed.

Two technologies for installing MDF wall panels are used:

1. On a wooden crate;
2. On a frame made of special galvanized profiles.

Wooden sheathing is easier to make; it requires less hardware for fastening, but wooden slats, or even slabs, are more expensive than a metal frame. In addition, wooden sheathing requires preliminary impregnation against fungus, rot and mold. In damp areas and in brick houses It is definitely not recommended to use wooden sheathing: moisture and fungal spores can penetrate from the outside simply through the pores of the brick, and the cavities between the cladding and the wall are an ideal environment for the development of pests.

For a metal frame you will need UD (guides) and CD profiles. Both of them are U-shaped and differ only in their cross-sectional configuration. Sellers often offer mounting end switches (“ears”) and connectors for the CD profile. Their use makes sense when performing a large volume of work in limited period. If you are decorating one or two rooms yourself, you can do without them. How will be described below.

Read more about lathing and its methods.

About thermal insulation

In the process of finishing a room with MDF panels, it makes sense to additionally insulate it by filling the cells of the sheathing with polystyrene foam. construction foam or silicone. The foam protrusions are cut off with a mounting knife.

In addition to the insulation itself, this will provide additional protection against the accumulation of condensation in voids and the development of wood pests. MDF is the same wood, and is also susceptible to their effects, although to a lesser extent.

In the summer, when the building warms up, the heat flow into the room will decrease significantly. Just MDF on a frame - a single heat shield with a reflectivity of approximately 0.25. With a layer of foam - double screen. The reflection coefficient of foam is more than 0.7; accordingly, no more than (1 – 0.7) x (1 – 0.25) = 0.225 heat will enter the room through the walls compared to the previous one. The outflow of heat through the walls in winter will be reduced by the same amount.

Considering that heat exchange through the walls is at least 0.15 of the total heat flow, you can count on reducing heating/air conditioning costs by at least 10%, and this is a significant amount in the budget at current tariffs.

If more serious internal thermal insulation – .

Lathing

Fasteners for sheathing

The wooden sheathing is attached to the wall either with self-tapping screws or mounting nails (dowel nails). A dowel-nail is similar to a self-tapping screw with a smooth, asymmetrical thread profile. It is driven into a plastic socket with a hammer. The head of the dowel-nail has a slot for a screwdriver, so it can be unscrewed if necessary. The metal sheathing is secured only with self-tapping screws.

To fasten the sheathing, fasteners with a diameter of 4-6 mm are used. The stronger the base wall, the smaller the required diameter. Each self-tapping screw or dowel-nail is equipped with a plastic socket. Holes in the wall for fasteners must be drilled to the diameter of the socket body; elastic protrusions are not taken into account. The nest is hammered into the hole with light blows of a hammer.

The body of the fastening element (nail, self-tapping screw) must sit in the main wall at least 30-40 mm. For example, if the thickness of the plaster layer is 12 mm and a 40 mm thick lath or profile is used for the lathing, the MDF thickness is 16 mm, then the length of the hardware must be at least 12 + 40 + 16 = 68 mm. Those. fasteners need a length of 70-80 mm. The depth of the holes for the nests is equal to the length of the nest + 15-20 mm for dust and crumbs. In this case – 100 mm. If the drill is longer, a stop tube should be placed on it. But don’t drill too deep: the thickness of the walls between rooms can be half a brick, which is less than 200 mm with two layers of plaster.

Wooden sheathing

We begin the wooden sheathing by installing vertical posts. We place the racks in all corners, in pairs, so that they form an angle, and along the edges of window and door openings from floor to ceiling. We check the verticality of the racks with a plumb line.

Having attached the stand, we outline it on one side with a pencil along the wall and drill holes for fasteners with a drill in concrete or stone in increments of 500-700 mm. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into them, and mark their position on the rack with a pencil. Then we drill holes in the rack with a diameter of 2/3 of the diameter of the fasteners and attach them in place. For more experienced craftsmen, the holes in the racks are drilled in advance, and the holes in the wall are marked directly through them.

Next, in a similar way, we install horizontal logs with the same pitch. Each piece of lag is fixed at the same pitch as the stand. We make sure to install logs along the top of the openings and under the window sills, regardless of whether they are “one step” or not. We also decorate the slopes of the openings with slats, along the inner and outer edges, without crossbars. The final stage– remove the ledges at the joints of the slats with a plane.

Note: When lathing the ceiling, keep in mind that the MDF panels are located along the racks and across the joists. That is, if the sheathing panels on the ceiling will be located along its short side, then the ceiling sheathing should be made parallel to its long side, and vice versa.

Metal sheathing

Metal sheathing is made in a similar way: racks in the corners and openings, then crossbars. The pitch of the sheathing is the same as that of wood. The racks are made from UD profiles; CD profiles are inserted into them and pushed into place. Then the CD, after alignment with a level and a tape measure for horizontality and pitch, is attached to the UD, and then to the wall, into holes pre-drilled in it.

The parts of the metal sheathing are connected to each other with short self-tapping screws. The CD is also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Dowel-nails cannot be used: the fasteners will either not be finished or the profile will be bent. The CD profile pieces are pre-connected to each other to the required length.

Note: It is better to carry out work on metal sheathing using a small grinder or a hand-held circular saw. With a jigsaw, even with a metal file, the work takes longer and a lot of waste results.

“Ears” and connectors

The “ears” of the CD are made like this: at the ends of the mounting pieces of the stick “P” we cut off the width UD to the crossbar plus 2-3 mm. The cut should be made slightly obliquely, so that from the ends of the “sticks” to the edge of the profile there is also 2-3 mm more than from the crossbar. With a straight or reverse bevel cut, the CD may get stuck during installation. “Ears” will be needed if the sheathing is made only from CD. If the racks are made of UD, then the CDs simply slide into them.

For CD connectors, we pre-measure a piece of it of the required length. One connector requires 100-120 mm of profile. If, for example, you need 10 connectors, they will take 1 - 1.2 m CD. The CD's "P" sticks are not straight, but curved inward. It is this bend that needs to be cut off by the same 2-3 mm. Then we cut the workpiece into the required number of pieces.

The CD is connected like this: the connector piece is pushed halfway into one of the profile pieces being connected, and the other piece is pushed over the rest. The connector, of course, will fit; There may be a small gap between the pieces being joined. This is not scary; this will not slow down the cladding work and will not make it more difficult.

Sometimes it is recommended to additionally secure the connection with self-tapping screws; this is unnecessary. During installation, it is already held quite tightly due to friction. In the future, the connector will not fall out - the wall will not let it - and will not slide to the side, because inserted with spacer.

Note: for communications - pipes, wiring in wooden slats or metal sheathing profiles cut grooves in place. Before lathing, it is necessary to measure the height to which the communications protrude above the wall, and choose the thickness of the sheathing elements 5-10 mm more.

MDF paneling

Striker and Claimers

MDF panels are connected to each other by a symmetrical tongue-and-groove lock in the form of a ridge and a corresponding groove. MDF panels can be attached to a wooden sheathing with small nails, driving them diagonally into the corner of the groove. The nails are finished off with a metal striker and a hammer. It is similar to a metal punch, only at its narrow end, instead of a point, there is a shallow depression along the head of the nail. A nail striker can be made from a center punch by removing the tip emery wheel and carefully drilling a recess on a drilling machine.

For fastening to a metal sheathing (and to a wooden one when working according to the standard scheme), gluers are used. Claymer is a small metal bracket to the hole for the fastener and the teeth that press the shelf of the groove of the tongue. The gluer is inserted into the groove of the MDF panel until it stops, and secured with a self-tapping screw. Fastening with gluers is more expensive and requires more labor, but it is more reliable, and if necessary, the cladding can be disassembled without damaging the MDF.

Installation of panels

Installing MDF panels on the sheathing is much simpler than the preparatory work:

• We start from the corner. We cut the required number of MDF panels to size to cover the mounting plane to the nearest rack. We go over the corners of the cuts once (“widen”) with sandpaper.
• On the first panel, we cut off the tongue and groove and secure it in the corner with nails (on a wooden sheathing) or small screws (on a metal one). From the groove side of the lock we secure it with nails or gluers.
• Place the next panel, slide the ridge into the groove, secure it along the groove, etc., until the last two panels remain.
• Last panel cut to length to size, with a 2-5 mm tack, depending on what corner or plinth will be used for the final finishing.
• Cut the ridge of the last panel in half and round it.
• We insert the last two panels into place “housewise” and press until they “click”.
• We push the last panel all the way onto the penultimate one; At the free edge we secure it with self-tapping screws.

Note 5:“The last two” is a responsible operation and requires some skills. It is advisable to first practice on MDF samples. If the training “house” jams, you can pry it off at the joint with a screwdriver.

The modern interior provides a beautiful and original finish, which especially emphasizes the style of housing. Therefore, recently MDF wall panels have become very popular among designers. Unlike wooden board They are inexpensive, come in various colors and are easy to install, giving the room a refined look.

Peculiarities

MDF is a unique construction material, produced in the form of panels from medium-density wood-fiber raw materials. Since the boards are produced by dry pressing of wood shavings under high temperature and pressure with the addition of urea resin, they are extremely strong and durable in use.

Decorative finishing with such panels has many advantages.

• Easy installation. The material can be fastened in any direction: diagonally, across or along the surface of the wall. In addition, to install the panels you do not need to carefully prepare the working base. The condition of the walls does not in any way affect the quality of the cladding.
• Aesthetic appearance. A huge range of colors and textures allows you to use MDF for any style. In addition, during installation, a small space remains between the slabs and the base of the walls, which can be used to hide insulation and wiring.
• Good thermal insulation. The material is characterized by excellent heat resistance, so after attaching the MDF, the room acquires additional insulation.
• Easy care. To clean the panels from dust and dirt, simply wipe them with a soft sponge soaked in warm water. If damage occurs during operation, there is no need to completely change the casing. To do this, the panel with defects is removed and a new one is attached in its place.
• Durability. This cladding will reliably last for decades.

Despite the presence positive characteristics, MDF also has some disadvantages.

• Low moisture resistance. When exposed to moisture, the material is subject to deformation. Therefore, for finishing rooms with high humidity It is recommended to use special boards with a protective layer.
• Instability to mechanical damage and loads. Decorative panels require careful installation and maintenance.
• High risk of fire. Electrical wiring that is installed under the trim must be placed in a fire-rated conduit.
• Formation of hollow walls. Since MDF is fixed to the frame, there is a “emptiness” between the skins, so when you need to fix furniture to the walls, you have to use long nails or dowels.

Before purchasing facing slabs, it is important to consider that they are produced different sizes depending on the model range each brand.

As a rule, the most common products on the market are thicknesses from 7 mm to 14 mm and sizes 2600×200 mm, 2600×153 mm, 2600×325 mm. Attached wall blocks usually on glue or lathing made from wooden beams and metal profiles. At the same time, installing slabs on a wooden frame is much simpler, but before installation, the wood should be coated with antiseptic solutions that protect it from the formation of mold and mildew.

Today, MDF boards have found wide application in various fields. They line the walls, door leaves, window sills, ceilings, and also screens for heating and ventilation systems and arches are made from the material. This finish looks great in modern interior, since the panels imitate not only expensive types of wood, but also natural stone.

Calculation of material quantity

The installation of MDF, like any other material, must begin with a preliminary calculation of the number of panels. To do this, first of all, determine the area of ​​the room: everything is done necessary measurements, and the perimeter is multiplied by the height. It is also important to consider the presence of doors and windows in the room. Their quadrature is calculated in a similar way, multiplying the height by the width, the resulting result is subtracted from the total area of ​​the room.

Then, knowing all the numbers, you can go shopping for wall panels. Since the products are sold in different sizes, you will have to additionally calculate how many square meters are in each slab. Usually manufacturers write this on the packs. If, for example, a panel is purchased with a width of 900 mm and a length of 2600 mm, then it is enough to multiply 2600 mm by 900 mm. As a result, it turns out that there are 2.34 m2 in one slab. Then the area of ​​the room that is planned to be covered must simply be divided by 2.34 m2, and you will get the required number of panels.

Preparing tools

An important point Before starting MDF sheathing, the preparation of the tools is also considered. Since the installation of wall panels is not particularly difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without the help of specialists.

To get the job done quickly and efficiently, you need to have a basic set of tools on hand.

• Roulette. It is best to use a 5-meter tape measure.
• Level. It can either be purchased in a store or made from jute, with a nut attached to the end.
• Drill with a full set of attachments. It will perfectly replace a screwdriver and simplify the task of fastening the plates.
• Metal square. For installation, the one that has different legs and is usually used by mechanics is suitable. Using a square, panels for cutting slopes will be measured.
• Hacksaw or jigsaw. It is recommended to stock up on both at the same time. In this case, a hacksaw should be selected with small teeth that have a transverse and longitudinal cut.
• Bulgarian. It is needed for cutting metal profiles if the frame is planned to be assembled from metal.

In addition to the above, you will also need ordinary tools that everyone has in the house: a screwdriver, a knife, a hammer, drills and a marker.

Installation methods

Before sheathing the walls with MDF, it is necessary to determine how to fasten them. Decorative panels can be installed using glue or on the sheathing. Each of these methods is characterized by its own installation technology.

Before choosing, you should evaluate the condition of the surface, taking into account some nuances.

• The boards are made from wood fibers, so the material must be protected from contact with substrates damaged by mold. Installation on walls in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. In addition, the panels must be mounted on a flat base.
• If the walls are well cleaned of old finishing and dry, then MDF can be installed on them using glue or liquid nails without assembling the sheathing. This will simplify fastening, but will eliminate the possibility of replacing individual plates if they are mechanically damaged.

The installation of wall blocks on a frame is as follows: guides are attached to the surface, serving as the basis for installation, then MDF is fixed to a metal profile or block.

This technique has many advantages.

• The lathing hides defects in the base, so the walls do not need to be leveled and leveled. This, in turn, significantly saves time and money.
• The resulting “void” between the skin will serve ideal place for laying important systems communications and laying the thermal insulation layer. In addition, additional sound insulation is created, which is especially important for apartments in which the partitions between the walls have poor sound absorption.
• The ability to quickly repair the finish if individual panels are damaged.

As for the disadvantages of such cladding, it significantly reduces the area of ​​the room, and if you need to hang pieces of furniture or decorative elements on the walls, then it is worth considering that the structure will not withstand such loads.

Unlike the previous method, planting with glue does not have any significant disadvantages. MDF boards are attached directly to the wall; in this case, the connecting element is glue. To additionally secure the panels together, clamps are also used. Thanks to this finishing option, the area of ​​the room is not reduced, installation is carried out quickly, without damaging the material with screws or nails. But if the surface of the cladding is damaged during operation, then it will be necessary to restore not just one fragment of the finish, but the entire wall.

When deciding on the choice of one method or another, it is worth taking into account not only the features of the room, but also calculating the costs of covering. For example, in some cases it is much more economical to putty the walls and not build a frame. For large rooms, of course, it is best to install lathing, since perfectly leveling their walls will be problematic.

Execution of work

MDF panels thanks to their operational characteristics and aesthetic appearance are widely used in finishing works. Wall panels can not only be used to decorate the ceilings of a corridor or hallway, but also to sheathe a doorway or window slopes in an original way. Furniture fittings and wall corners can also be easily made from the material at home. Since the product is easy to install, it is quite possible to do all the work yourself. Before attaching MDF, you should prepare the surface for finishing by cleaning it from the old coating and eliminating all defects.

Regardless of whether the cladding is planned on concrete, wood or brick, the base must be primed; this will protect the finish from the appearance of mold and mildew in the future.

For additional thermal insulation of window slopes, walls and doorways, it is recommended to lay insulating material; it will not only serve as a good insulator, but will also cope with the task of vapor and waterproofing.

To install panels on slopes, they can be fastened along or across, it all depends on the size of the slope. This finish, made from a combination of light and dark pieces of slabs, looks original. Installation of panels on walls and ceilings is carried out either using glue or using a pre-assembled frame. To do this, first attach the starting profile, and then the guides, along the length of which you need to correctly join the decorative parts. To make a beautiful corner, before installation you should trim the material, rounding its edges.

It is recommended to saw or cut panels using special woodworking tools. A jigsaw is considered the best option for this, but if you don’t have one at hand, then a fine-toothed saw will do. Having decided on the direction of the MDF sheathing, the panels are measured and cut to the required length. In this case, it is necessary to cut off the tenon along the entire length of the first slab; if this is not done, then difficulties will arise when installing the corners.

Lathing

When choosing a method for attaching MDF to the sheathing, you will first have to make a durable frame from metal profiles or wooden beams. At the same time, it is worth paying attention to the fact that wooden structure requires preliminary impregnation with antiseptic solutions that will protect it from rot and mold. If you plan to lay thermal insulation, then the thickness of the beams is chosen according to the thickness of the insulating material. It is not recommended to use a wooden frame for cladding brick walls and rooms with high humidity.

To prevent wooden beams from becoming deformed during installation, you should choose well-dried wood. The structure is fixed perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, leaving a small margin of 5 cm from the floor and 3 cm from the ceiling. First of all, fix the vertical elements, which are placed along the edges of the recesses, in the corners and next to the openings. The planks should be spaced 700 mm apart from each other. To fasten the structure, self-tapping screws or nails with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm are usually used.

To assemble a metal structure, UD racks and horizontal CD profiles are used. The sheathing pitch is similarly 600-700 mm.

The CD profile is inserted into the rack and everything is secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. Metal profiles can be cut with a special circular saw. If the ceiling is finished with panels, then the frame must be assembled only from horizontal elements, using additional fasteners.

Paneling

After frame construction ready, start paneling. MDF slabs are fixed to each other using a tongue and groove lock, consisting of a recess and a ridge. The parts are attached to the wooden sheathing with small nails, and they are driven in obliquely with a hammer. To install the material on the metal profile, clamps are used, they are placed in the groove of the slab and secured with self-tapping screws.

At vertical installation The MDF begins to be fixed from the corner, smoothly redirecting to the left. The first slab is attached to the beam with nails, and from the groove side the fixation is carried out with clamps. Then the ridge of the next slab is placed in the groove of the first. The last panel should be cut to length, leaving a small margin of 5 mm, and its ridge should be cut in half. It must be inserted into the groove of the previous panel and the free edge secured.

Pieces of wall slabs are used to cover slopes. To beautifully close the skin, use special corners. They are placed on liquid nails or glue, decorating the edges near doors and windows. In addition, MDF is excellent for finishing the ceiling surface; in this case, the panels are installed in a direction perpendicular to the base of the walls.

The construction market is represented by a huge range of MDF panels. For finishing inside the house, they usually use material with painted and laminated surface. It can be used to cover both the surface of walls and ceilings, as well as doorways or an arch, which is pre-installed on plasterboard frame. Depending on the area of ​​application of wall panels, their installation is carried out in different ways.

MDF panels for walls are boards made from wood fiber by dry pressing of wood chips. This building material is different medium density, and to give it high degree strength, sawdust is mixed with urea resins and processed using high temperature and significant pressure. Finally, the MDF panel is further processed to achieve aesthetic appeal.

Features and Benefits

MDF for walls is prepared using the same technology, but the finish of their surface is always different, in this regard, several types of these panels for walls can be distinguished:

1. created using natural veneer as a decorative finish. The products are distinguished not only by their excellent strength and reliability, but also by their high price.
2. panels are the most popular and in demand of all types of material. To create these panels, pasting with melamine film is used. This allows you to simulate the structure natural wood so popular when decorating the walls of a room. To improve the appearance of the slabs, they are covered with a high-gloss film.
3. Technical and office premises, workshops and garages are finished using painted MDF panels. In this case, the decorative coating is a layer of paint. On such models there is no imitation of the tree structure.

MDF panels have improved technical characteristics. When creating them, the manufacturer does not use harmful resins, rich in phenol content.

After grinding and processing the wood chips, the resulting dust is treated under high temperature in special ovens. The process lasts until lignin is released, which ensures the gluing of the raw material.

The main advantages of the MDF panel are:

• attractive price;
• possibility of use both for leveling the surface of walls and for decoration;
• ease of installation without the help of a qualified specialist;
• strength;
• reliability;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• ease of care.

There are several ways to attach MDF wall panels during work related to decorating the surface of walls indoors. One of them requires the assembly of a frame and sheathing, while the other requires a special adhesive for wall panels.

Frame mounting

To assemble a high-quality frame and sheathing, wooden blocks or metal profiles are used. Both structures are required for fastening decorative material when decorating residential and office premises. The methods of attaching panels to the frame allow not only to visually change the internal space, but also to hide certain defects found on the surface of the walls. When choosing how to mount, you need to take into account the degree of unevenness of the base. Significant flaws in the form of voids, dips or bumps can be corrected with the help of a high-quality frame and sheathing.

Fastening the wall panels to the frame is necessary during work related to leveling the surface. In rooms with high humidity, only a metal profile is used to construct the frame. The construction of the sheathing allows for the installation of additional insulation. The frame for fastening the panels with your own hands in a dry and warm room is assembled from wooden beams: prepared wood (bars with a cross-section of 30x40) must be installed and secured strictly vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.

The very first (starting) profile is attached directly to the floor, the second - to the ceiling. Having installed horizontal profiles along the entire perimeter of the room, proceed to attaching vertical guides. The distance between the bars does not exceed 60 cm. This is due to the fact that the dimensions of the MDF panels are as follows:

• width ranges from 153 to 200mm;
• the length depends on which company is the manufacturer; this parameter reaches from 2 to 2.6 m;
• thickness from 5 to 14 mm.

Installation Features

Installation of MDF panels, metal profiles or bars begins from any corner of the room by laying individual elements vertically or horizontally. If it is necessary to create additional noise or heat insulation, insulation boards are placed between the lathing slats.

The distance between the slats in this case depends on the parameters of the thermal insulation material used. It is 2-3 cm smaller than the width of the insulation, which allows the mineral wool slabs to be tightly laid.

Each MDF panel is equipped with a special groove for installing clamps and fastening to the frame. The frame itself is fixed using “crabs” and brackets. MDF fastening panels to the wall cannot be called a complex process if the frame of the structure is assembled correctly and strictly according to the level.

When creating the sheathing, it is important to remember that the fastening elements (screws), or rather their length, are selected taking into account the thickness and height of the bar or profile. The self-tapping screw must be embedded into the wall to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Before constructing the frame, you need to determine the highest point on the wall surface and set the vertical and horizontal from this value. All work is carried out under the constant supervision of a building level equipped with a spirit level. It is necessary to check not only the horizontal and vertical, but also both diagonals on each wall being sheathed.

The sizes of MDF panels are great value in the case when it is decided to attach them to the wall using a frame, and when performing work using a special adhesive composition, certain types of panels are chosen.

It is more difficult than covering a correctly assembled frame with such panels.

Glue mounting

Before attaching MDF panels to the wall, you must:

1. Clean the surface from any dirt, dust, remnants of old coating in the form of paint, wallpaper or cracked plaster.
2. All areas to be restored must be plastered again.
3. After the solution has completely dried, prime the wall for maximum adhesion.

Knowing how to attach MDF panels to the wall, you can complete all the work in the shortest possible time. It is necessary that the surface is not only carefully prepared, but also absolutely flat. MDF panels must be glued to the wall in such a way as to ensure complete adhesion and avoid air getting under the components of the structure.

If tiled or ceramic tile glued to the walls in one motion and cannot be dismantled and re-glued, the peculiarity of the process of gluing MDF panels is that the future cladding cannot be glued immediately. It must be pressed against the wall, held for a few seconds and torn off. After this, let the glue dry slightly and re-attach the panel to the wall surface. You can glue MDF only by applying significant force when pressing the panel.

If the wall surface is prepared incorrectly or poorly for gluing MDF panels, the fixation will not be strong and durable.

Panels with adhesive applied to their surface must be laid on a clean, dry, absolutely flat and smooth wall. The quality of the cladding also depends on how correctly the first panel was glued. It must be secured in strict accordance with the vertical mark made using a plumb line or laser level level.

The final stage is the installation of plugs and other decorative elements. The inner corners are fixed with glue. Its color is selected exactly to match the finishing material and applied with a thin snake, trying to avoid the appearance of excess on the panels after pressing the corner.

You can study all stages of the work in detail by watching the video.

Interior decoration using MDF wall panels is very popular due to the many positive qualities which this finishing material has. This is not only an opportunity to perform all manipulations without the involvement of qualified specialists, but also to increase the strength and reliability of the structure. Wall panels MDF allows you to change the interior space of a room, giving it attractiveness and increasing its aesthetics.

• Preparing for work
• How to install the panels?
• Frame making
• Panel installation

MDF panels have many positive properties, thanks to which they are becoming increasingly popular and widespread. Among others - low cost and environmental friendliness. Almost anyone can install these panels themselves. It's pretty simple work, which requires only sufficient care. You can decorate walls using MDF panels without having any special professional skills in repair or woodworking.

Diagram of fittings for plastic panels.

What are MDF panels for walls?

Wood processing industry waste is used to produce MDF. However, they differ significantly from fiberboard and chipboard both in the manufacturing method and in their characteristics. No binders are used in their production; the production technology is based on the method of hot and dry pressing of wood. The use of this processing method ensures that the fibers and tubes of lignin that make up the wood, under the influence of high temperature and pressure, adhere to each other due to the resulting plasticity. In its structure, MDF resembles a kind of wood felt.

In its mechanical properties, MDF is inferior to most similar materials; their trump card is environmental friendliness, which is achieved by refusing to use binders chemical substances during their manufacture. This is an ideal material for interior decoration. When working with this material, you must adhere to the same rules as when working with wood. To glue MDF panels, the same glue is used as for wood. However, liquid nails are an adhesive specifically developed for MDF. This glue contains sawdust, due to which it can be used not only for gluing, but also for puttying various defects, such as cracks. In addition, this glue can be used to seal the heads of self-tapping screws.

When purchasing materials, pay attention to the consistency of the color of the glue and the decorative finish of the MDF panels. Otherwise the glue may damage appearance finishing.

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Preparing for work

Installation diagram of MDF panels.

Installation of panels is carried out mainly using ordinary household tools that are found in every home. From specific devices you will need a plumb line, which you can make yourself. To do this, simply tie a fishing line or strong thread tightly around the nut. In addition, stock up on a building level, a tape measure and a drill attachment that allows you to screw in self-tapping screws. You will need the latter if you do not have a special screwdriver. You may need a metal square with sides of different thicknesses, also called a bench square. You will need it to simplify the cutting of panels for the design of slopes. It is used like this: the cut is made based on a leg of smaller thickness, and a thicker leg is used as a stop.

You can cut the panels with an electric jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. If you have to buy these tools, then keep in mind that the cost of a saw with a cutting depth of 12 mm is significantly higher than the cost of a jigsaw. However, you should also consider the versatility of the saw. When replacing blades, it can be used to cut a wide variety of materials. In addition, the saw is compact and easy to use.

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How to install the panels?

Before installing MDF wall panels, they must be calculated and purchased in required quantity. Determining how much material is needed is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to calculate the surface area that will be covered and add 15% in reserve.

Installation diagram suspended ceiling from PVC panels.

Inspect the room before starting work. If it has ever become damp, the wall covering is swollen or cracked, the plaster has noticeable unevenness, or the thickness of the plaster layer is less than 1.2 cm, then careful surface preparation is necessary. To do this, you need to completely clean the main wall of plaster and remove the baseboards.

There are 2 ways to install MDF. The first involves the installation of a sheathing on which the panels will be attached, and the second will require special galvanized profiles.

Perform installation wooden sheathing easier than installing profiles.

Scheme of additional profiles.

It will require less hardware for fastening, but its cost is higher than the cost of profiles. When making wooden sheathing, slats or slabs must be soaked in a special antifungal composition, and also treated with materials that will protect them from rot and mold.

It is not recommended to use sheathing in brick houses and in damp rooms, since the space between the wall and the cladding creates an environment for pests. ideal conditions. You won't notice that the finish is damaged until mold or mildew appears, and when this happens, it will have already spread widely. Harmful particles can penetrate the sheathing through the pores of the brick.

To make a metal frame, you will need U-shaped profiles: guides and regular ones (UD and CD, respectively). The main difference between them is the cross-sectional configuration.

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Frame making

Dowels or self-tapping screws are used to attach the wooden sheathing to the wall. For metal sheathing, only self-tapping screws are used. The diameter of the fastener should be from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the strength of the base wall: the stronger, the smaller the diameter. Fastening element must be driven into the base wall by at least 3 cm. That is, if the thickness of the MDF panel is 1.6 cm, the thickness of the lathing element is 4 cm, and plaster is applied to the wall with a layer of 1.2 cm, then it is permissible to use screws or dowels with a length of at least 10 cm.

Installation of wooden sheathing begins with the installation of vertical posts. They are placed in each corner in pairs, so that an angle is formed between them. Also vertical racks located on the sides of door and window openings to the entire height of the room. They must be positioned strictly vertically. You can check this with a plumb line.

First, the place for fastening the racks is marked on the wall with a pencil, then in it and in the wall, places are marked for making holes for fasteners that correspond to each other. The distance between the holes should be from 50 to 70 cm. Next, the racks are fastened with screws or dowels. Mounted in exactly the same way horizontal elements battens.

Lathing made of metal profiles is made according to the same principle as wooden lathing. UD profiles are installed vertically, and CD profiles are installed horizontally. It is best to cut profiles into the required length elements with a circular saw or a small grinder.