Ways to imitate brickwork with your own hands. Do-it-yourself imitation of a real brick wall from different materials Do-it-yourself brick finishing

Brick is a strong, durable material used primarily for building walls, interior, exterior finishing. But it is not always possible to use it - voluminous, thick bricks will make small room quite cramped. Because for finishing works high-quality imitation is used in residential and office premises brickwork. There are a great many options for its execution, they differ in the degree of complexity and similarity to natural brick.

In the interior of which rooms can brickwork decor be used?

Execution of building facades, interior spaces made of brick is always beautiful. But you won’t be able to use real bricks everywhere - they significantly make the floors heavier, and not everyone has the mason skills to make high-quality masonry.

Decor that imitates masonry made of red, white, or any other brick, looks good in almost any room. For spacious rooms, dark, cold, rich colors are suitable, for cramped, dimly lit rooms - lighter, warmer ones.

This design is most often used in loft, industrial, art-believe style interiors, less often in classic, modern, minimalism, Provence. Fake masonry indoors can cover all the walls of the room, frame window openings, door frames, have the appearance of narrow, wide, medium dividing strips. Also, with its help, separate logical zones are highlighted, a fireplace and arched structures are designed.

The more spacious the room being decorated, the larger the brick images are used for it and vice versa.

In the hall

The front or hall is a kind of “face” of the apartment; the entire interior design “dances” from it. Here, brick finishing is acceptable on all walls, with rare inclusions of appropriate decor - painted ivy branches, decorative cracks, etc. An excessively long corridor is zoned with vertical brick lines, arches located at the same distance from each other - this is how adjustment of its shape and size is achieved , heights.

In the living room

In the hall, most often, not the entire room is decorated with brick props, but only one of its walls. A fireplace or false fireplace looks organic here, looking as if it were made of real brick, with several zoning partitions. If the living room is completely combined with the kitchen, then only the kitchen or living room. Let’s assume the option of creating a brick dividing strip between separate zones. Organically complement big picture bottles, boxes, with colored bricks painted with acrylic, pictures applied using the decoupage technique, made using ordinary putty.

In the bedroom

In the bedroom, not only the walls are decorated with brick decor, but also the podium (if there is one) on which the sleeping area. The same design will allow for beautiful zoning large room, finishing only the mini-office or dressing area with brick. Photo wallpapers are best suited ceramic tile not recommended - it's too cold.

Even a minimally embossed imitation of brick becomes voluminous with proper lighting placement.

In bathroom

There are special requirements for imitation brick in a bathroom - it must be moisture resistant, not destroyed, not deformed when exposed to direct water. Ceramic or flexible rectangular tiles, polystyrene foam painted with moisture-resistant paint are suitable here. The color depends on the size of the room - the more cramped it is, the lighter the coating is chosen.

During installation, waterproofing materials are used, silicone sealants and etc.

In the kitchen

Imitation brick for this room is decorated kitchen apron, made of plastic, glass, with a pattern printed on it. All materials must be waterproof, which is especially important for the area around the sink, gas stove, easy to clean from grease without the use of harsh abrasives or aggressive detergents.

On the balcony, loggia

Insulated, glass balcony, a spacious loggia can be combined with any room - bedroom, kitchen, living room through the same covering with the main room. As an option: the room is finished with white or yellow painted brick, the balcony is finished with a darker imitation of plaster. Here, plastic panels are most often used together with insulation made of foam plastic, polyurethane, mineral wool and etc.

In the nursery

Brick decor is rarely used for children's rooms; it looks no less organic than in other rooms. This design is often used in teenage rooms– industrial, loft, pop art and similar styles are almost in pure form They look most organic there. You can decorate a room in this way with your children, simply by depicting bricks using acrylic paints, watercolors, gouache, and markers. The effect of an old brick will be achieved if you draw small cracks here and there with a gel pen.

Soft, flexible tiles - advantages, disadvantages of the material

Soft tiles are one of the most “believable” variations of creating realistic masonry. The flexible version is waterproof, which is important when used in wet areas of a bathroom or toilet, home pool, or greenhouse. This material has significant impact resistance, durability, it is vapor permeable, resistant to mold and mildew, easy to process, does not change color from exposure to the sun, and has a beautiful appearance. Also to positive properties flexible tiles include the fact that they can be installed not only on perfectly smooth walls, but also on convex and concave interior elements - arches, internal and external corners, window slopes, brackets, fireplaces, round columns, small architectural forms having a complex configuration.

Necessary tools, installation steps

To decorate the interior with “soft brick” you will need some tools available in almost every home:

a metal spatula, 13-17 cm wide, with which you will stir and apply the adhesive;
spatula 16-19 cm wide, with teeth, about four mm high;
ruler made of wood, plastic or metal 100-150 cm long;
building level 100-150 cm long;
a brightly colored centering cord for marking straight lines;
large sharp scissors;
a simple construction pencil for marking;
a medium-hard brush 10-13 mm wide to smooth the seams between the tiles.

Materials needed:

flexible tile itself suitable color, size;
tile adhesive - dry mixture in a paper bag or ready-made mixture in a plastic bucket;
high quality primer.

Step-by-step work process:

the surface that is decided to be decorated is first thoroughly cleaned of old coatings and leveled;
after the wall with the leveling compound applied to it has dried, it is primed with an antiseptic so that fungus and mold do not “start up” under the cladding, and adhesion is maximized;
After the layer has dried, the tiles are installed directly. It is important to do it at a temperature not lower than five to seven degrees, since at a lower temperature the adhesion of the tiles to the wall is reduced. This will negatively affect your appearance finished surface, individual parts in general they can quickly fall off;
Next, the wall should be drawn into identical rectangles, where tile adhesive will subsequently be applied. If you intend to decorate the entire wall completely, it is mandatory to mark the limiting lines at the top and bottom;
adhesive composition It is not applied evenly everywhere, but only on individual zones measuring 50 by 100 cm. The layer thickness is two to four mm. Application is done with a flat spatula, after which the surface is “traversed” with a notched spatula to create grooves;
The bricks themselves are usually made with parameters of 25 by 12 cm or 10 by 15 cm - the material is easily cut with simple scissors. When laying in rows, the first level starts with a whole “brick”, the second - with half or one third. Before cutting, the material is marked with a pencil and ruler;
During the installation process, it is important to maintain the same width of the joints between the tiles - usually nine to thirteen mm, but other values are acceptable. The horizontality of the rows is periodically checked with a level - the tiles should not “walk” or move excessively up or down;
when the row “rests” on the inner or external corner, the tiles are carefully bent and glued, like all the others. Rounded, wavy elements, columns, fireplaces are faced in the same way;
Every time another area of about one square meter is covered with tiles, the seams between the tiles are smoothed out with a wet narrow brush. This must be done before the glue sets and completely hardens;
no special grout is required for the space between flexible bricks, which significantly reduces the cost of finishing.

Options for rigid facing tiles, their advantages, disadvantages

Rigid tiles are made of gypsum, ceramics, cement, and are mounted on a concrete, plasterboard wall, or other suitable structure. Such decor often contains various pigments, fiber fibers, and plasticizers. The elements are installed using an adhesive composition suitable for a particular option. Finished finishing the appearance is as similar as possible to real bricks, especially if they are painted in a suitable color.

Before starting finishing work, you should take into account that solid tiles have quite a lot of weight, creating additional load on the foundation and walls of the room.

Plaster

Gypsum decor has a very diverse design. This material is lightweight, parts can be cast yourself using silicone or plastic molds. Gypsum is not recommended for use in damp rooms, as it is excessively hygroscopic. In the living room or bedroom they are often decorated with fireplaces - the microclimate in such a room will be as favorable as possible. Low price gypsum allows you to create a noble finish at the lowest cost.

Plaster elements can be used to decorate internal and external walls. To process the corners, shaped parts are taken, giving the finish a neat appearance, protecting the walls from chips and mechanical damage.

For installation, gypsum-based adhesive is used, for
For sealing joints, a special grout is used.

Cement

Cement decor also has a low price and is available in a variety of colors - gray, red-brown, white, black, etc. This artificial brick is used even in winter unheated rooms, since it consists of one part of high grade Portland cement, two or three parts of sand. It is cast in silicone molds– it is permissible to paint the solution at this stage, or use a roller, sponge, brush, or decorate it to look like a brick or stone part already ready product, which is a wall element of masonry. Artificial bricks are textured and feel like real ones.

Clinker

Clinker is relatively expensive, therefore interior decoration rarely used. It is very durable - this is the option that is recommended for cladding stoves, fireplaces, and external walls of a building. Clinker tiles contain highly plastic clay, pressed and fired at high temperatures - 1100-1300 degrees. Artificial pigments and plasticizers are not added - this material is the most environmentally friendly, reliable, will last a long time without losing its properties. performance qualities, attractive appearance. Clinker is wear-resistant, has high frost resistance, practically does not absorb water, and is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, strong chemicals, and detergents.

Clinker tiles are very decorative - they are available in glossy and matte, coated with a transparent glaze or with a natural rough surface. The variety of shapes, colors, sizes, textures will allow you to choose it to suit almost any interior style.

Installation and painting of tiles

Glue rigid tiles from various materials can be almost the same. In addition to tools for marking and applying adhesive, you will need a circular saw for sawing tiles, Sander with stone discs. The process of laying rigid tiles is more labor-intensive than flexible ones, due to their large weight and the need to carefully seal the seams between individual tiles.

Progress:

installation is carried out on the most even surface, previously cleaned of previous coatings, dirt, and grease;
marking is done with a regular pencil, ruler, the recommended distance between tiles is 9-13 mm;
the composition of the adhesive mass depends on the material used to make the tile;
laying is usually done from one of the lower corners. Odd rows start with a whole tile, even rows with half;
The glue is applied to the wall and spread with a notched trowel. For heavy clinker tiles, it is recommended to apply an additional layer of mortar on back wall each element;
Each subsequent row is checked with a level - while the glue has not hardened, you can make some adjustments. If desired, use direct calibration inserts, which are wooden or silicone strips, about one centimeter wide, inserted between the rows;
for internal and external corners, special shaped parts are used to make the corners look neat;
When the installation is completed, the seams need to be filled with grout. To apply it, use a special gun and ready mixture in the tube. As an option, the grout is diluted to the desired degree of thickness, placed in a thick plastic bag, the corner of which is cut off, and the solution is carefully squeezed out into the aisles;
You should avoid getting grout on the front surface of parts, especially those with a rough surface - it will be extremely difficult to remove;
To even out the filling of the seams, a special jointing tool is used. This should be done before the grout becomes hard - for about 20 minutes;
painting is done decorative composition suitable color.

Characteristics, pros, cons of interior panels

Panels for original design“brick-like” interiors are made from the most different materials:

hardboard;
glass fiber reinforced concrete;
Chipboard and others.

They vary in the degree of similarity to real bricks, size, color, thickness, and durability. Installation of most types is very simple - the wall is literally assembled like a puzzle or the parts are laid end-to-end.

The panels can be wall or ceiling.

PVC, MDF panels

Parts made of polyvinyl chloride are the most popular in modern times due to their environmental friendliness, safety, and relatively affordable cost. In second place are panels made of modified wood-fiber boards. Stores offer the widest range of decor such as “antique”, “wild stone”, etc. MDF is cut with a jigsaw, hand hacksaw, PVC - with sharp scissors, a knife for cutting paper.

The main advantage of the materials described above is that they can easily be used to finish even the most uneven walls, which do not require any prior preparation, leveling, or applying putty. In cases where it is necessary to hide engineering Communication V spacious rooms, the panels are mounted on a frame made of metal or wood. PVC panels are used in rooms with different temperatures and humidity levels. For sound and heat insulation, a layer of insulation is used in parallel with the panels. MDF is not used in damp rooms - it is suitable for living rooms, the range also includes corner parts.

Mounted in approximately the same way relief panels from hardboard, fiberglass, fiberboard, gypsum, etc.

Glass fiber reinforced concrete panels

Glass fiber cement parts are durable and beautiful. The material contains high-quality cement and glass fibers (including colored fibers), which greatly increase the strength of the products. When performing external work, reinforcement with metal structures is often used, which increases the total weight of the structure and increases its mechanical resistance to any influences. The material is environmentally friendly and protects the house from radio radiation, but its cost is high and therefore not available to everyone.

Technology, methods of panel fastening

Interior panels can be attached to a flat wall using any polymer glue, for example, “liquid nails”. For curved, “humpbacked” surfaces, installation will be required metal frame with special hanging system. Heavy MDF panels are additionally mounted with dowels in three to five places. Fiberglass concrete structures are attached to a flat surface using cement tile adhesive.

Brick-look wallpaper

Wallpaper "brick" - the cheapest, most economical, but not too durable option. Their main advantage is that special skills and tools for installation are not required, as well as inviting highly qualified specialists. Effective area the rooms are not reduced at all, and after the work is completed there is practically no waste left. Paper and vinyl wallpapers do not weigh down the structure; even thin drywall can withstand them. Liquid wallpaper is easily applied to a wall of any curvature; its implementation is reminiscent of installing cement mortar tiles.

Homemade wall decoration options

There can be several ways to decorate a homemade “brick” wall:

details are drawn by hand directly on the wall surface;
you can use a stencil, templates made of plastic, plywood;
made of corrugated cardboard covered with decoupage napkins;

Polystyrene foam is a cheap, easily processed material. You can get regular polystyrene foam from cardboard boxes from under the furniture, household appliances. Blocks made of dense polystyrene foam are purchased at construction markets. The work process is simple: bricks of a suitable size are cut out of this material, and any irregularities are sanded with sandpaper. Parts are glued to the wall, ceiling tile adhesive, « liquid nails", PVA glue, painted with acrylic, other water-based paint. The irregularities are pre-created using a soldering iron or a utility knife.
Tip: the preferred size of bricks is 250 by 120 mm, the distance between them is one or two mm.

Using a stencil to imitate brickwork

The stencil is cut out of a thick sheet of cardboard, rubber, linoleum, and purchased ready-made in the store. Paint and plaster are applied using a smooth spatula, spray can, brush, sponge, or fabric roller. The wall is marked, retreating three to seven centimeters from the floor, leaving space for seams of 10-15 mm. The most common size of a purchased template is 6.5 cm by 20 cm; almost any size can be made at home.

If it is planned not a complete, but a partial imitation of brick, the placement diagram is graphically depicted on paper.

Detailed master class on creating brickwork relief using masking tape and plaster

One of the options for finishing an old or new wall “like a brick” is concrete. To work you will need:

primer mixture;
high-quality plaster;
narrow masking tape;
stationery knife;
putty knife;
containers for diluting compounds;
drill with special nozzle, another tool for mixing the solution.

The wall is first cleaned of previous decor - wallpaper, paint, plaster, etc., if necessary, it is leveled, and then primed. On initial stage Marking is very important - a marking cord or an iron tape measure is used for it. It is advisable to mark relative to pre-filled strictly horizontal profiles under the ceiling.

Next, narrow tape is glued to the wall so that it looks like bricks. Plaster, tile adhesive, and rotband are applied over the adhesive tape and the entire wall in a layer of five to eight millimeters. After the solution has set slightly, the tape is carefully peeled off, the gaps are leveled using a wooden stack and a hard brush.

Instead of plaster, ordinary tile adhesive is often used; all work is recommended to be carried out with gloves.

Conclusion

Decorating an apartment with fake, painted, pasted bricks is very popular look finishing. Most simple options easy to reproduce with your own hands; for more complex ones, you will need not only the advice of specialists, but also their direct participation. Various variations of fake brickwork are matched to almost any popular interior style - from classic to loft. You can decorate the entire house with bricks, as well as a small area in the room.

Every day, a brick wall is used more and more often: previously, such surfaces were carefully decorated, but today, on the contrary, they are even artificially created. Moreover, not only professionals, but also ordinary people can reproduce such an imitation. All you need is a little patience, a great desire and this article, from which you will learn all the secrets of creating an imitation brick wall with your own hands.

Option 1 – brick wall made of cardboard.

To build it we will need:

Ruler and pencil;
PVA glue;
directly sheets of cardboard - thick, like in packaging boxes;
scissors or stationery knife;
brush;
varnish, paints;
hot glue gun with rods;
thick paper napkins.

Let's prepare the surface on which we plan to create a false brick wall. To do this, we will clean it of old wallpaper, if there is any on it, and prime it (instead of a primer, you can use an aqueous solution of PVA glue, the ratio of water to glue is 2 to 1) or, if the wall has been painted, thoroughly wash it from dust and degrease.
Next, you should decide on the size of the brick and which side it will lie on. There are several options for both sizes and installation methods. Exactly how your wall will look should be decided at this stage. To make this easier, pay attention to the schematic drawing below; on it you will find the most popular brick sizes and an indication correct name each of its faces (number 1 indicates bed, 2 - spoon, 3 - poke).

Let's say you need an imitation of red brick masonry - a 228x65 mm spoon.

We take a sheet of cardboard and draw it according to the given dimensions.
When all the “bricks” are drawn, cut them out.
Let's complicate the problem in the example and assume that the brickwork should not be solid, but should reveal a certain drawing, for example, from a calendar. Let's mark its location on the wall. If the drawing opens partially, we glue it right away.
We cut some of the cardboard bricks in half, they will be needed to create a chess “order”.

We start laying the “bricks” from the lower left corner with an indentation of 7-10 mm. The same indentation should be made between the rows. Every second row should start with a half.
When all the cardboards are glued, you will need to wait until the glue dries. Construction PVA will require at least a day. Only after this can you proceed to decorating with napkins.

Apply glue to the surface of the “bricks” with a brush, crumple the napkin in your hands until folds form and apply it to the cardboard coated with glue. Again, coat the top with glue, press out the gaps with a brush or finger, and when the entire wall has been treated in this way, leave it to dry for a day.
The glue has dried and hardened, which means you can proceed to the last stage - painting with the chosen color. IN in this example We are creating an imitation of a “bare” brick wall, so we need a brick color, to obtain it we will mix orange, red, black and white paints. You can apply this color with a brush, or you can use a sponge; most importantly, do not forget to coat the “seams” between the false bricks with a thin brush. Here you can also choose the color according to your preferences, but light gray looks most often and most realistically.

To protect the surface from dust and moisture, it is additionally recommended to coat it with varnish.

Option 2 – brick wall made of polystyrene foam.

To set it up you will need:

glue;
Styrofoam;
plywood;
soldering iron;
spray paint for cars;

When everything you need is at hand, begin to act in accordance with the instructions.

Cut the foam into equal sized rectangles. In our case it will be 20x6 cm.
In the case of arranging an interior element, coat the plywood with glue and glue the “bricks” to it at the same distance from each other (gaps). If you plan to imitate a brick wall with your own hands on the wall, then the latter must first be cleaned and primed.
When the glue (you can use standard construction PVA) dries, use a soldering iron to imitate the structure of a brick. Just wear a mask - melting foam is very toxic!
That's practically all. All that remains is to treat the resulting wall with spray paint in 3 layers (each of them must dry well before being covered with the next one).

Option 3 – traced brickwork.

To simulate it you will need:

kitchen sponge;
Ruler and pencil;
dye desired color(in our case it will be obtained by mixing the available 2 red and 3 dark paints).

That's the whole list.

Cut the sponge according the right sizes bricks
On the wall where the imitation will be created, draw the lines along which you will work.
Dip the sponge into the paint (or mixture) and press it firmly against the wall. Do this several times until you get the print you want. Next, make a gap (indent) and repeat this step again until the entire wall is covered with these “bricks.” And don’t be afraid if something isn’t perfect – it’s even more natural.

Option 4 – brickwork made of putty.

To recreate it you will need:

directly putty (any except finishing);
level;
pencil;
putty knife;
window seal with a thickness equal to the desired joint of the false brick wall.

A furniture stapler may also come in handy (if the glue you choose cannot securely hold the seal), but it is not necessary.

So, the standard brick dimensions are 250x65x120 mm. In accordance with them, basic surface markings should be carried out.

Step back 65 mm from the floor, use a level and a pencil to mark a straight line and glue the window seal onto it.
Step back 65 mm from it again and do the same thing again. And so on until the entire surface of the future “brick” wall is filled with these horizontal stripes.
Make vertical markings. To do this, step back from the lowest point (from which one, it doesn’t matter, unless there is a corner in your false wall, otherwise you need to start from there) 250 mm and draw a vertical line, then another 250 mm... and so on throughout the first row. The second row and each subsequent even row should be done in the same way, only in order to get a checkerboard order, the first “brick” must be halved. Afterwards, glue all the drawn lines with a sealant.
Dilute the putty, fill the resulting “honeycomb” to the entire thickness of the seal (there is no need to cover it) and leave until completely dry (about 24 hours).
Peel off the seal (this is not difficult to do, since it does not “resist”), paint the imitation brick wall with your own hands in a more natural color, and after it dries, cover the seams with tile grout or cement.

Video.

When carrying out renovations, everyone wants to add a decorative element to their apartment that will distinguish their home from a series of monotonous and boring rooms. One such option is to decorate the walls with decorative bricks, which makes the surrounding space lively and cozy.

Many people think that a brick wall with their own hands can only be realized experienced builder, and such repairs will cost a pretty penny. Our material is intended to prove the groundlessness of such misconceptions, so today we will talk about how to create an imitation brick in your room and what you will need for this.

Necessary tool

The list of necessary means at hand depends on the method by which we plan to decorate the walls with brick in the interior, but we will certainly need:

Container for preparing the solution;
Drill with a nozzle for stirring it;
Scotch;
A set of spatulas, you will need both wide and narrow ones;
Provilo;
Painting cord for placing beacons so that the resulting wall is smooth and beautiful;
Oilcloth and various rags - this type repairs generate quite a lot of dirt.
Plaster and paint, for carrying out finishing our wall;
Brush and roller with which we apply our finishing materials;
And so that our decorative brick was no different from the real thing, we will need to draw the seams - using jointing or even a simple pencil.

Preparation and calculation of the required material

The main part of the costs for such repairs falls on the purchase of material with which we will imitate a brick wall with plaster - that is, the cement plaster or putty. Typical plaster consumption is approximately 8.5 kg per 1 square meter with a layer thickness of 10 mm. We will need half as much decorative plaster - such a thick layer is not needed, and therefore we multiply 4.25 kg by the area of the area that we plan to use for decorative finishing brick walls.

Plaster is usually sold in packages of 30 kg, and therefore we round the resulting number up, because in practice the consumption may turn out to be higher - beautiful and even bricks may not turn out the first time, somewhere you will need to make a slightly larger layer, and so on. The price per bag usually varies from 250 to 500 rubles, but we recommend not saving, because low-quality plaster can ruin all your efforts.

In the same way it will be necessary to calculate the quantity necessary materials for finishing, but we believe you can handle the paint without boring advisers.

Preparing walls for work

The preparatory stage, during which we put the walls in order and rid them of layers of previous finishing and other debris, is key to obtaining quality repairs. If you haven't gotten rid of previous layers of plaster or adhered dirt, your plaster brick wall may crumble along with the old coating. All depressions and protrusions must be carefully sealed and brought to general level. Measure the level of curvature using a rule and carefully tidy up the wall.

We also don’t forget to prime our wall - this will help ensure good adhesion between the finish and the wall, and also prevent the formation of fungus and mold. After the primer has dried thoroughly, we can begin to construct our brick wall in the interior, for example, in the hallway.

Technology of applying brick decor

There are two main ways to make an imitation of a brick wall in an apartment with your own hands:

with cutting seams using a scraper;
using masking tape.

Read and choose the one you like.

Cutting seams with a scraper

First of all, we apply plaster to our primed wall and level it with a spatula. The spatula should be wide, about 20-25 cm; it will be great if you also have a narrow spatula on hand, with which you can apply the plaster in hard to reach places. When the applied mortar has dried, it’s time to begin our main task - marking the seams, which will turn our boring plaster into an original brick.

We apply a spatula to the plastered area and draw seams with the sharp side; their width should be about 0.5-1 cm. The pattern is at your discretion, but we recommend following the dimensions of a standard brick - 250-120-65 mm. Now we have a diagram according to which the seams should be drawn - it’s time to arm ourselves with a scraper; both a chisel and homemade product in the form of a steel strip. The depth of the seams should directly depend on the layer of plaster; if you applied 10 mm, then the seam should be from 3 to 6 mm.

You can also arm yourself with jointing, with its help you can give the seams a convex or concave appearance. After our site is ready, it is worth checking it for flaws and eliminating them in a timely manner - this will not be easy to do with dried plaster. Now we remove excess plaster from the bricks, wipe their surface with a rag and wait for it to harden. After this, the wall is ready for painting or other finishing work. Using this method, we can get a brick-style wall at half the price than using another finishing option - tiles that imitate brick.

Forming seams with tape

In this option, immediately after priming, we mark the wall and stick tape onto the marked seams. The plaster is applied directly on top of the tape, and as soon as it is leveled and allowed to dry a little, they pull the tape and leave a pattern of seams on the surface.

This method is a little more complicated and takes longer - you will have to clean the edges of the bricks. In addition, not every beginner will be able to remove the adhesive tape without pulling the solution behind it, and therefore we recommend using this method only for people with extensive experience in repair work.

Finishing walls

Now we need to bring our wall, already covered with bricks, back to its proper form, and therefore we sweep away the dust from it and thoroughly clean the excess with sandpaper.

The next step is re-priming - you need to apply it not only to the bricks, but also to each seam. You can either apply the paint or omit this procedure, depending on what color and texture of the bricks you would like to get.

Well, in general, that’s all. Such work requires a lot of time, effort and diligence, but the result of such cladding will be beyond all expectations - the effect that a brick wall, made with your own hands using simple means, produces on guests will certainly amaze you.

Brickwork, in which the strict pattern of the seams is harmoniously combined with the “individuality” of each stone laid in the wall - business card loft interior style.

Many people like the idea of reproducing the skillful work of a mason in their apartment. To implement it, it is not necessary to take up a trowel and a hammer. It is enough to make an imitation of brickwork on any wall or on a separate section of it.

There are two options for performing this work: using gypsum tiles that imitate brick, and applying a masonry pattern to wet plaster. The second method is not only cheaper, but also easier than the first. We will talk about it in this article.

Examples of brick-like plaster in the interior

Before we begin to study the technology of finishing brick walls using plaster, we will get acquainted with several examples of performing this work.

The photo below shows original version imitation brickwork. Its author deliberately avoided the straight lines of mortar joints. The result is an interesting surface, as if carelessly put together by a mason.

And here is a typical example of untinted gypsum plaster “like brick”. The work was done with high quality, so even at close range the imitation is indistinguishable from natural facing masonry.

Painting bricks White color highlighting the seams dark is a common decoration technique. It is often used in Scandinavian-style interiors.

Red brick is good, but white “Scandinavian” is better!

To create a beautiful surface, you need to carefully mold the raw plaster into brick shapes. In addition, it is necessary to carefully process the “face” of each stone, giving the array the appearance of aged masonry. Good example We see this approach in the photo below.

The master worked on the surface of each “brick”, giving the wall a unique texture and color

Standard masonry stone correct form with sharp edges is not the only option decorative plaster. Designers love to use imitation brick in the interior with smooth and torn edges.

Brick-like plaster can be used to decorate not only a solid wall. With its help you can make an apron in the kitchen, decorate corners and doorways.

Plaster imitating masonry looks like expensive clinker tiles

How to finish a brick wall with plaster yourself?

First, let's look at starting conditions this technology. Without their observance, the work cannot be completed efficiently.

Preparation

The thickness of the finishing layer imitating brick is relatively small (0.5-1.5 cm). Therefore, a wall intended for such decor should not have large depressions and protrusions. Before starting work, you need to measure the level of curvature of the surface using a long rule. If the deviation of the wall from the vertical exceeds 2-3 cm per 1 m of length, then it must be leveled with a plaster mixture and allowed to dry for several days. Only after this can you start decorating.

What master class of imitation brickwork do you not watch, everywhere mandatory operation is the priming of the surface before applying the solution. Without it, the layer of decorative plaster will peel off over time. The type of primer is selected based on the wall material.

There are two technologies for applying brick decor:

With cutting seams using a scraper.
Using masking tape to form seams.

We will consider both options and give our comments on each.

Cutting masonry joints with a scraper

The main tool for applying and leveling plaster is a steel spatula 20-25 cm wide. For ease of use, you can use a narrower spatula (5-10 cm) with it. With its help, the solution is applied to wide instrument, correct small protrusions and pits.

The work is carried out in separate sections - occupations. Their area depends on the amount of solution that is prepared at a time (10-15 liters).

First, gypsum plaster is spread over the primed wall surface with a wide spatula, periodically leveling its layer.

After the solution has dried a little, the seams are marked. It is most convenient to do this work using a long rule (1.5-1.8 m). It is applied to the surface of the plaster and seams are drawn along it with a sharp plate. Their width is chosen within 0.5-1.0 cm.

The “pattern” of the masonry depends on your preferences. In this case, the dimensions of a standard brick should be observed (length 250 mm, height 65 mm and width 120 mm). You can’t draw bricks on the wall haphazardly. When making markings, you need to take into account the dressing of the seams.

After the seams are drawn, the scraper comes into play. This could be a narrow carpenter's chisel or homemade device from bent steel strip.

They are carefully guided along the seams, removing the plaster. The depth of the seams depends on the thickness of the decorative finishing layer and can range from 3 to 6 mm.

Working with a chisel is not so convenient. Excess mortar from the seams forms a “fringe” that constantly has to be removed.

There is another tool for forming seams - jointing. It is used by masons at the stage finishing masonry Using jointing, seams can be given a convex or concave appearance.

When cutting plaster, start with long horizontal joints, and then move on to short vertical ones. Having done this work, the plaster needs to be given time to gain strength. Before doing this, you should eliminate all the mistakes and inaccuracies in the drawing, since this will not be possible on the hardened layer.

Excess mortar remaining on the edges of the bricks after cutting the seams is removed with a dry cloth immediately after completion of this work. After this, if desired, you can smooth the edges with a damp sponge.

The last operation is painting an imitation brick wall made of plaster. It is performed in two stages. First, the entire array is tinted with a brush or spray. After this, carefully paint the seams with a narrow brush, making sure that the paint does not get on the surface of the “brick”.

To create an imitation of masonry, many craftsmen use Volma gypsum plaster. Mix cement tile adhesive with gypsum plaster do not do it. Different types of binders do not get along well with each other. Therefore, the finishing layer may peel off from the base over time.

By consumption plaster mixture we can say the following. With a layer thickness of 1 cm, its consumption per 1 m2 of wall is from 8 to 9 kg. In this case, a standard bag (30 kg) is enough for 3.5 m2. With a bag price of 450 rubles, one “square” of plaster will cost 128 rubles (450/3.5). If we add to this the price of primer and paint, then the final cost figure will be at the level of 180 rubles / m2.

For comparison, let's say that the minimum cost of gypsum tiles imitating brick is 400 rubles/m2. Adding the price of glue, we get 480 rubles/m2. This is more than 2.5 times more expensive than imitation gypsum plaster.

Forming seams using masking tape

In this option, after priming, mark the seams on the surface with a pencil and stick narrow masking tape on them.

The ends of the tape are brought beyond the border of the area to be plastered and the gypsum solution is applied with a spatula directly to the tape. After leveling the plaster and letting it dry a little, carefully pull the ends of the tape. The adhesive tape removed from the plaster layer leaves a pattern of seams on the wall.

It should be noted that making an imitation of brickwork with your own hands using tape is more difficult than removing the mortar with a scraper. This work takes longer and requires additional cleaning of the edges of the bricks.

In inept hands, the tape does not always separate evenly, dragging part of the solution with it. Therefore, we recommend that beginners use the technique of forming a pattern using a chisel or scraper.

Special home comfort The brickwork adds warmth to the room. We are not saying that you need to completely forget about plaster and build only brick walls... It’s just that fragmentary imitation of brickwork in different areas of the room provides unlimited design possibilities for your creative imagination.

Using a real wall

If there is a brick wall in the room, you can remove the plaster from it, process it a little and get natural brickwork. Please note - this is a real “authentic” brick wall!

The wall is cleaned of remnants of plaster and sanded with a grinder and a flap sanding disc. Brick joints are additionally corrected with a plastering mixture, hiding visible defects. Finally, the wall is coated with acrylic varnish or wax used for textured plaster. The shiny varnished surface (if desired) is given a certain dullness by local sanding with fine-grained sandpaper.

However! Not always, after removing the plaster, high-quality brickwork will be revealed underneath. Rescue - imitation decorative design! And there is less dust...

Imitation finish options

How to make imitation brickwork? Let's consider options for practical methods that you can implement with your own hands, thanks to a simple technique for their implementation.

Textured wallpaper

Until recently, wallpaper with imitation brickwork represented a rather conventional method of “brick” decor. Today modern technologies printing and obtaining a textured surface of wallpaper make it easy to “deceive” the eye, but still they are far from a realistic surface.

At the same time, the method of decorating with paper, non-woven or vinyl wallpaper has its advantages:

minimal capital investment;
speed of installation (pasting);
Easy to maintain - the flat, washable surface does not hold dust well.

When using the “wallpaper” option, you should pay attention to innovative wallpaper made from foamed polymers on paper based– they are as realistic as possible.

Here we are talking about ready-made plastic panels, the surface of which already repeats. Using such panels and glue, you can quickly “dress” a wall in brick, both indoors and when finishing facades. Exterior finishing often involves installing such panels on a profile sheathing, which allows for additional insulation of the walls.

Note! In order to properly glue such panels indoors, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls!

Stencil embossing

The work is carried out on fresh plaster. A ready-made rubber or polymer flat stencil with a relief pattern of brickwork applied to it is used. The stencil (working side) is moistened with water by dipping into a bath or spraying from a spray bottle. Then it is carefully pressed with force against the plastered wall. Next, the stencil is removed from the wall, on the surface of which traces of the contours of the seams between the bricks remain.

The cycle of actions repeats again. In this case, the stencil is moved to a new place with the horizontal lines of the “masonry” aligned - otherwise it will turn out to be too “surreal”.

Frozen plaster layer primed or coated with construction wax. The bricks and seams are then painted. You can avoid staining by using a plastering solution that has already been painted in one or more shades. When using “multi-color” plaster, a solution of different colors is applied to the wall one at a time and then smoothed. The result is an immediate realistic brick texture. The seams are additionally painted acrylic paint a different shade.

When choosing paint for decoration, remember that it will darken somewhat after drying!

Tile masonry

This option is interesting because it uses ready-made tiles, which are simply glued to the prepared wall surface. This is similar to wall cladding tiles, only it usually has a greater thickness and, when laid, fairly wide (1-1.5 cm) gaps are left between the individual tiles.

The gaps between the tiles are covered with plaster or tile adhesive mixture. After drying, the seams are primed or immediately varnished. This protects them from chipping.

If you have an old brick, a grinder with a diamond wheel, and also better than a machine for cutting tiles, you can make natural facing tiles yourself.

Decoration tiles can be made from wood, polystyrene foam or gypsum, tile adhesive, extruded polystyrene foam and even... corrugated cardboard. We’ll talk about this in detail, but a little lower…

Painted on plaster

As in the case of working with a stencil for drawing “bricks” on the wall, we will need to freshly plaster it. The solution applied to the wall is smoothed by hand to obtain a random surface relief, reminiscent of the texture of stone or old brick. After the surface of the plaster has slightly hardened, the contours of bricks or stones are drawn on it. This can be done with a ruler, but a more realistic effect can be achieved by drawing the contours by hand.

Using a narrow (1-1.5 cm) scraper, remove the plaster along the drawn lines, forming the contours of the bricks protruding from the wall. We sweep the resulting grooves with a dry narrow brush - this process will remove sharp edges and crumbs of the plaster before it hardens completely.

Further finishing of the plaster “bricks” is carried out in the same way as in the case of a stencil.

Bricks on putty

This method is convenient when you already have a finished plastered wall. A thin layer of putty painted in the color of brick or stone is applied to it. Then proceed as in the previous method, forming the contours and relief of the brickwork on a slightly hardened putty.

Using the putty method, it is easier to create a relief using a narrow construction tape. The cycle of actions is as follows:

On a dry plastered wall we make horizontal and vertical markings of the seams of the future surface. In this case, the rectangles of each subsequent row are shifted in relation to the “bricks” of the previous one.
We paint the marked seams with paint of a suitable color and wait until it dries completely.
On top of the dried paint we glue strips of narrow construction tape along the horizontal seam lines, and on top of them we glue short vertical pieces of tape. This sequence of sticking the tape will make it easy to remove it later.
A thin layer of putty is applied on top of the tape on the wall, the surface of which is smoothed or left uneven depending on the desired texture.
After the putty has slightly cured, remove the tape by tearing off horizontal stripes. Since the vertical sections were glued on top of the horizontal stripes, they will easily be removed along with them.
Next is a “technological pause” until the putty completely hardens.
And then they start final finishing the resulting relief surface using the above methods.

Corrugated cardboard

Imitating brickwork using corrugated cardboard is a unique way to perfectly decorate a wall at minimal cost. To complete this design you will need:

corrugated cardboard - dense boxes made of thick cardboard are suitable for this;
thick paper napkins – preferably high-quality ones;
PVA glue in large quantities and a comfortable wide brush;
hot melt glue and glue gun;
stationery knife;
Ruler and pencil;
varnish and paint - for final finishing.

Sequencing:

The surface is cleaned of old wallpaper and primed, and the painted surface is cleaned and degreased;
Corrugated cardboard is cut with a knife into rectangles according to the size of the sides of the brick;
For ease of gluing “bricks” on the wall, it is advisable to draw basic horizontal lines;
Each cardboard rectangle is smeared with PVA glue, but its corner parts are left dry. Glue is applied to them from a hot-melt gun. This combination of two adhesive media allows you to instantly fix the “brick” on the wall using drops of hot-melt adhesive, and then securely glue it after the PVA has dried over the entire plane;
Next is the stage of decorating cardboard rectangles by gluing paper napkins on them - making a kind of decoupage on the wall. The glue is applied with a brush to the rectangles, and paper napkins are applied on top, which are again coated with glue on top;
When gluing napkins, you need to shape the seams using a round stick of hot-melt glue, a brush or just your finger so that they are recessed into the wall. Napkins smooth out the sharp edges of rectangular “bricks”, creating a realistic effect of a neat “embroidered” wall.
The next stage of this finishing after the glue has dried is decorative painting and application protective varnish on the wall. After complete drying, you get an interesting realistic wall decor.

Note! For such work, choose high-quality napkins - otherwise they will simply get wet and roll up in glue. Before gluing, it is advisable to crumple them in your hands to form folds, which will ultimately allow you to more realistically imitate the structure of stone or brick.

After complete drying, you get an interesting realistic wall decor.

Some design nuances

Imitation of brickwork in the interior of a room can both bring zest to it and “crush” it with its bulkiness in the case of an ill-conceived design. It should be understood that masonry does not have to be on all the walls of the room. It can appear fragmentarily on certain sections of the walls, and can serve as a decorative frame for a painting, photo wallpaper, fresco or other interior element.

Therefore, even at the planning stage, it is important to present a complete image of the renovated room.

Any of the above methods, if performed well, can create a realistic picture. Your imagination can expand the options for wall decor and make your home unique, cozy and beautiful - the main thing is to understand the basic principles of organizing such work.

By the way, you can also use the technologies discussed to achieve the effect of masonry on bottles or vases - they will serve you as additional elements"brick" interior.