Methods of reinforcing a concrete floor. Concrete floor on the ground manufacturing technology Reinforcement of the floor slab on the ground

Reinforcement of a concrete floor is done when additional reinforcement of the base of the room is required. In industrial construction, reinforcement of floors in workshops and other production premises Necessarily.

The reinforcement improves the resistance of the screed to loads

If the project provides for the implementation of a floating screed, then it is reinforced. Reinforcement of the concrete floor is carried out during shrinkage of buildings.

In all these cases, special meshes are used different materials. The reinforced screed resists the destructive effects of vibration, dynamic loads, and also withstands significant static pressure. In this article we will consider reinforcement concrete floors various materials.

When reinforcement of a concrete floor is necessary

When installing a subfloor you cannot do without reinforcement

Reinforcement of a concrete base is done only when operating conditions require it:

The structure of the floating screed necessarily includes a reinforcing mesh. This type of screed is isolated from a fragile base with thermal insulation slabs or backfill of dry floors.
A rough cement floor laid on the ground must be reinforced reinforcement mesh. The ground is first backfilled with crushed stone or expanded clay.
If there is a threat of destructive consequences from soil swelling concrete screed necessarily reinforced.
When installing heated floors, the screed is subject to deformation and cracking due to significant temperature changes. The screed is reinforced over the entire area of the heated floors.
They strengthen the base of floors in places where heavy objects will be installed, as well as where vibration and dynamic loads may occur.
The reinforcement is used when laying concrete floors with a thickness of more than 50 mm.

In private households, floor reinforcement is used mainly in garages and rooms with installed heavy equipment (workshops).

Types of reinforcement products

Several types of materials are used to strengthen a concrete floor:

metal grid;
polymer and fiberglass reinforcement;
fiber fiber.

Metal grid

The metal mesh is convenient because the rods are already fixed in it and you don’t have to connect them with your own hands

Metal reinforcement makes it possible to obtain a base that is powerful in strength. A layer of concrete floor made from metal reinforcing mesh is used for constructing foundations on the ground in workshops, warehouses and garages.

Metal reinforcement for screeds is steel rods of periodic profile. To strengthen concrete floors, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm is mainly used. In some cases, larger steel rods are used.

The reinforcement is laid on the base of rooms with cell sizes from 50x50 mm to 150x150 mm. The gratings are made using the method spot welding steel rods.

This manufacturing method involves the production of reinforcing bars in a factory. IN special conditions grids of steel rods are formed at the installation site using electric welding.

The rods are connected by welding

If more powerful reinforcement is required, then they resort to the option of placing meshes in two layers. The diameter of the rods and the size of the cells are determined based on a special calculation method.

The calculations are based on averaged indicators of static and dynamic loads that will affect the monolithic base of the concrete floor.

In addition to heavy reinforcement, wire mesh is used. They are much lighter than steel rods and are used for subfloors with moderate loads. Wire mesh is made either by spot welding or by simply knitting cells with the same wire.

Wire with a diameter from 2 mm to 6 mm is used to make meshes. Standard sizes cells can be from 50x50 mm to 200x200 mm. Wire mesh is supplied in trading network in rolls, which is convenient for transportation and installation.

Polymer reinforcement is used when installing dry and semi-dry screeds

Polymer and fiberglass mesh spacers are most often used when laying concrete mixture in the form of a screed over the backfill of dry floors.

Fiberglass and polymer reinforcement are used in floors that can withstand loads of 300 to 400 per 1 m 2. Plastic mesh attracts consumers with the following qualities:

the lightness of the mesh rolls is light, eliminating any inconvenience during their transportation and storage;
the polymer material is easy to cut, which allows you to lay reinforcement mesh in a short time;
absolutely no threat of material corrosion.

Fiber fiber

Fiber is added to dry cement mixture before filling it with water. A hardened layer of concrete with fiber fiber makes it possible to obtain a screed that is resistant to the formation of microcracks in the monolith.

Polymer mesh and fiber are not used for the device concrete foundations on the ground. This material cannot withstand bending and tensile stresses.

The areas of application of types of floor reinforcement are presented in the table below:

Floor reinforcement with metal mesh

The edges of the mesh must be recessed in the concrete so that the metal is not subject to corrosion processes

Metal mesh laid in the middle of the concrete layer. Thus, the steel rods will be protected from the occurrence of corrosion processes. The reinforcement of a concrete floor is carried out in several stages:

It is convenient to use light metal profiles as beacons. The profiles are aligned with the markings on the walls using pads. A solution is placed between the guide profiles. The floor surface is leveled according to the rule.
After the solution has set, the profiles are removed and the depressions are filled with the solution. For more information about base reinforcement, watch this video:

Reinforcing the base of the floor with polymer and fiberglass mesh is done using the same technology as reinforcing floors with metal mesh.

Adding to the composition cement mortar fiber fiber does not affect the method of laying conventional concrete screed.

Concreting, carried out at high speed over large areas, is the most in an economical way leveling the old and installing a new floor. After hardening, the smooth surface becomes ideal foundation for any finishing coating. To increase the service life of the screed, reinforcement of the concrete floor is used. This process is carried out using various materials and designs from them.

According to the functions performed and location, the screed is divided into the following types:

rough - rests on the ground;
multilayer - includes heat and sound insulating gaskets;
leveling - placed on a rough layer, serves as a basis flooring or tubular insulation;
construction - lies on the floor slab.

It is advisable to reinforce a self-leveling concrete floor when constructing rough and multi-layer screeds (in the absence of a monolithic support, the effect of tensile and bending loads is enhanced), as well as to reduce the design layer of concrete.

Types of reinforcing structures and materials

1. Frame made of rods. Most often it is laid in two layers, made from rods with a diameter of 6 to 40 mm. Used when coating thickness is more than 8 cm.

2. Steel wire mesh. Is used for multilayer screed on the ground or to strengthen the coating in the garage, hallway, kitchen.

3. Polymer mesh. It does not strengthen the screed, but only prevents cracking during the concrete hardening process. Used for self-leveling floors, reducing cement consumption. The mesh is installed directly on the base or on the heat-insulating layer.

4. Reinforcing fiber for concrete. There are two types: metal and polypropylene. Polymer fiber gives concrete resistance to cracking during shrinkage, temperature fluctuations, and enhances water-repellent properties.

Metal fiber increases the resistance of concrete to vibrations. By replacing the reinforcing mesh with steel fiber, they save time (the elements are introduced directly into the mixer) and reduce the thickness of the screed. In this case, microcracks lose their ability to expand.

5. Combined reinforcement. In addition to the frame mounted in the lower section of the covering, its upper layer is filled with fiber - this is how the concrete floor screed is protected from cracks. The method is applied to the entire surface or in areas of increased loads (where the floor is adjacent to walls or columns). Fiber should be dosed according to the instructions.

The main stages of concrete pavement reinforcement

The most labor-intensive is the construction of a concrete floor with soil foundation. First, according to technology, a gravel-sand mixture is laid, then a foundation slab, parabarrier film, thermal and waterproofing. Next, a reinforced layer of concrete is installed.

1. Depending on the thickness of the screed, in private construction it is reinforced with a frame made of rods or wire mesh. The diameter of the reinforcement for reinforcement is taken from the range from 8 to 20, and the wire - from 4 to 6 mm. The cell size ranges from 10 to 20 cm.

2. A frame made of solid rods is knitted using wire with a diameter of 2 - 3 mm, the layers of the frame are attached to the ribs. If scraps of material are used, they are overlapped with an overlap of half a meter.

Wire mesh is purchased from finished form(cells 5 – 20 cm) or knitted by hand. Purchased products are connected with wire with an overlap of 1 - 2 cells.

3. The finished structure is laid on clamps (“chairs”) at a level of about 3.5 cm from the base. When pouring steel elements should be in the middle of the concrete layer - in this case, the loads are evenly distributed over the surface of the coating, its mechanical resistance is ensured, and there is no metal corrosion.

Reinforcement consumption for floor reinforcement

Table 1 shows data for the mesh version of the reinforcement, and Table 2 shows data for single reinforcement with steel rods from 10 to 16 mm.

Material, per 1 m2 of floor

Floors on the ground - universal method installation of a warm and reliable foundation in the house. And you can do them at any level groundwater and type of foundation. The only limitation is the house is on stilts. In this article we will describe in detail all the layers of the “floor pie” and show how to organize it with your own hands.

Concrete floors on the ground imply the absence of basements or gaps for ventilation in the underground.

At its core, it is a multi-layer cake. Where the lowest layer is the soil, and the topmost is the floor covering. At the same time, the layers have their own purpose and strict sequence.

There are no objective restrictions for organizing the floor on the ground. High groundwater is not an obstacle to this. The only thing they weakness– production times and financial expenses. But on such floors you can put brick or block walls, and even heavy equipment.

Correct “floor pie” on the ground

The classic floor pie on the ground implies the presence of 9 layers:

Prepared clay;
Sand cushion;
Crushed stone;
Polyethylene film;
Rough concreting;
Waterproofing;
Insulation;
Finish screed;
Flooring.

We deliberately did not indicate the thickness of each layer, so as not to set any strict restrictions. Below, approximate values and influencing factors will be indicated. But first we would like to point out very important point: The groundwater level can change very seriously in a fairly short period of time.

In our practice, there have been cases when, within 5-7 years, dry semi-basements and cellars in private houses had to be filled up, because groundwater completely flooded the underground premises. Moreover, this phenomenon was observed not in one individual house, but in an entire block of private buildings (40-60 houses).

Experts explain such phenomena by improper drilling of water wells. Such actions lead to mixing of aquifer lenses, rupture of layers and changes in aquifers. Moreover, they can drill a well quite far from your home. So pay close attention to the purpose of each layer of the floor pie on the ground and do not think that there are unnecessary elements here.

Prepared clay. The purpose of this layer is to stop groundwater. In general, the three bottom layers of the floor pie are intended for exactly this. Of course, if, while removing the fertile layer, you have reached the clay layer, then you do not need to bring it and fill it up, only a little preparation is required. But more on that in due time.
Sand. There are no special requirements for sand. You can use any, for example, quarry or even unwashed.
Crushed stone. Large, fraction 40-60 mm.

These three layers are responsible for cutting off the capillary rise of water. A layer of clay cuts off the main access, sand weakens the capillary rise of water and weakens the pressure upper layers, and crushed stone does not allow water to rise in principle. At the same time, each layer must be compacted. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm. Otherwise, there is no point in filling it up. But the maximum height needs to be explained in more detail. The fact is that tamping is most often done homemade devices. The weight of such instruments is 3-5 pounds.

It has already been empirically proven that compacting a layer of crushed stone, sand or clay more than 20 cm. hand tools impossible. Therefore, the thickness of one of the first three layers is maximum 20 cm. But, if you need to make the floor pie higher, then tamping can be carried out in two stages. First, 15-20 cm of sand is poured and compacted well. Then another layer of the same thickness is poured and compacted again.

The order of occurrence of the clay-sand-crushed stone layers cannot be changed. The reason here lies in the fact that if sand is poured on top of crushed stone, then after some time it will seep through it. Which in turn will lead to subsidence and destruction of the concrete layer, and then deformation of the entire floor.

Polyethylene film. Be sure to take the film with your sleeve and lay it without cutting. That is, there will actually be two layers of polyethylene. It is intended solely to prevent the concrete solution from flowing into the crushed stone.
Rough concreting. Minimum thickness layer 8 cm. Sand can be taken from a quarry, but it must be washed. But crushed stone is required with a fraction of 10-20 mm. This layer will be the basis for the final part of the floor on the ground. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is recommended.
. If the preliminary work is carried out correctly, ordinary roofing material without powder can handle waterproofing. If in doubt, you can lay roofing felt in two layers.
Thermal insulation. Here it is recommended to use only Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPS). The thickness should be determined depending on the region and climatic conditions. But we do not recommend using EPS with a thickness of less than 50 mm.
Finish screed. Depending on the project, water heated floor pipes or electric floor heating cables can be integrated into it. Only river sand is used. This layer must be reinforced. Dispersed reinforcement with steel fiber is possible. The thickness of the screed is at least 50 mm.
Flooring. Concrete floors on the ground, organized in a private house in this way, have no restrictions on the use of floor coverings.

Installing a floor on the ground with your own hands

Before starting work, calculate the excavation depth. The calculation is carried out in reverse order. That is, the threshold is taken as zero front door. Then they begin to add up the thickness of each layer. For example:

Linoleum – 1 cm;
Finish screed – 5 cm;
Insulation – 6 cm;
Rough screed – 8 cm;
Crushed stone – 15 cm;
Sand – 15 cm;
Prepared clay – 10 cm.

The total depth turned out to be 60 cm. But keep in mind that we took the minimum values. And each building is individual. Important: add 5 cm of depth to the result obtained for you.

Excavation is carried out to the calculated depth. Of course, the fertile layer will be removed, but clay may not always be below. Therefore, we will describe the process of organizing a floor pie on the ground in full.

Before filling the layers, draw level marks with chalk in 5 cm increments on all corners of the foundation. They will make the task of leveling each layer easier.

Soil compaction

Any clay will do for these purposes. It is scattered in an even layer, and before compacting it is generously moistened with an aqueous solution of liquid glass. The proportions of the solution are 1 part liquid glass and 4 parts water.

To compact the first three layers, you can use a one and a half meter piece of timber 200x200. But the process will be better if you do special device. To do this, to a one and a half meter segment metal pipe, A piece of channel is welded in a T-shape. The lower part of the channel should not have an area of more than 600 cm2 (20 by 30 cm). To make the tamper heavier, sand is poured into the pipe.

The compacted layer of prepared clay is well moistened with cement laitance. To prepare it, 2 kg of cement is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Make sure that no puddles form on the surface of the clay. That is, it should be fairly even.

Almost immediately after the cement comes into contact with liquid glass the chemical process of crystallization begins. It goes away quite quickly, but during the day you should not disturb the crystal formation in any way. Therefore, do not walk on clay, but rather leave the work for a day for a technological break.

The main layers of the “floor pie”

Sand. After a day, you should start filling the sand. At the same time, try not to walk on the first layer. Pour sand and step on it. Chemical processes Between liquid glass and cement there will be another week and a half. But air access is no longer needed for this, and water is present in the clay. Having poured a layer of 15 cm, feel free to step on it and compact it.

Crushed stone. It is scattered in an even layer over the surface of the sand and also compacted. Pay attention to the corners. It is very important that after compacting the surface is as smooth as possible.

Polyethylene film. It is laid with a 10 cm overlap and taped. A small, 2-3 cm bend on the walls is allowed. You can walk on the film in soft shoes with extreme caution. Remember that polyethylene film is not, but only a technological layer to prevent laitance from flowing into crushed stone.

Rough concreting.“Skinny concrete” is being prepared in the following proportion: cement M500 – 1 hour + sand 3 hours + crushed stone 4 hours. For dispersed reinforcement, steel fiber should be added at the rate of 1 kg. fiber per 1 cubic meter of concrete. Try to level the freshly poured solution, following the corner marks. On a flatter surface, it will subsequently be more convenient to lay layers of waterproofing and insulation.

48 hours after pouring, the concrete must be reinforced. To do this, you will need a solution of liquid glass in water (1:10) and cement. First, the solution is passed over the entire surface. You can use a roller, or you can use a spray bottle. Then they dust the concrete with a thin layer and immediately begin to rub the cement into the surface. The most convenient way to do this is by grouting.

This procedure increases the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude, and in combination with liquid glass makes it as waterproof as possible. The concrete will mature within a month and a half, but work can begin on the next stage in just a week.

Insulation and waterproofing

To create a waterproofing layer, the floor surface is cleaned and treated with liquid bitumen. Ruberoid is laid overlapping, with an allowance of 3-5 cm. The joints are carefully soldered using construction hair dryer. Wall allowance 5 cm. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the roofing material fits into the corners and do not leave any voids. The second layer of roofing felt is laid offset by half the width of the roll. During waterproofing work, it is best to walk on the surface in shoes with soft soles (sneakers, galoshes).

For thermal insulation, the most the best option– extruded polystyrene foam. A 5 cm thick EPS layer replaces 70 cm of expanded clay. And in addition, EPS has a practically zero water absorption coefficient and quite high compressive strength. We recommend laying 3 cm thick EPS in two layers. In this case, the top layer is laid with an offset. This method guarantees the absence of cold bridges and increases the thermal insulation properties of the floor pie. The joints between the EPS boards are glued with special tape.

Proper thermal insulation of the floor pie is an extremely important component for the energy efficiency of the entire house as a whole. Up to 35% of heat escapes through the floors! Even if the floors themselves do not produce heat (warm floors), they should be thermally insulated as much as possible. This will allow you to save quite impressive amounts on heating in the future.

Floor screed

Glue along the room, 15-20 mm thick. Wherein bottom part must be glued to EPS boards. To reinforce the floor on the ground in residential premises, use a masonry mesh with cells of 100x100 mm. Wire thickness 3 mm. The mesh must be placed on supports so that it is approximately in the middle of the screed layer. To do this, it is placed on special stands. But you can use regular PET bottle caps.

Installation of beacons is possible, but in combination with reinforcing mesh, this will create a rather bulky and extremely fragile structure. After all, if you rigidly fasten the mesh, this will require additional costs for fastening and will require violating the integrity of the EPS. And if the fittings are not fixed, then it can easily change the levels of the beacons. Therefore, it will be more convenient to fill this layer and then level it with a self-leveling screed.

For the finishing screed, the solution is diluted in the proportion of 1 part M500 cement + 3 parts. river sand. The work is carried out promptly. To roughly level the surface, you can focus on the corner marks.

After pouring the finishing screed, it should be allowed to gain strength for 3-5 days. With a thickness of 5 cm, the ripening period of this layer will be 4-5 weeks. During this time, regular wetting of the surface with water is required.

Acceleration of the cement hydration process is unacceptable! After about a month, you can check the degree of readiness. To do this, in the evening, take a roll of dry toilet paper, place it on the floor and cover it with a saucepan on top. If in the morning toilet paper will be dry or slightly damp, then the layer is ready. You can level the floor with a self-leveling screed.

The self-leveling screed is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the surface of the concrete floor. When the work is carried out scrupulously, height differences do not exceed 8-10 mm. Therefore, a minimal amount of self-leveling screed is required. It dries quite quickly. And after 1-2 days the floor pie on the ground will be completely ready for laying the floor covering.

This type of screed is made in private houses, garages, outbuildings, industrial and warehouse premises, in large shopping malls, at bus stations, etc.

The method is considered universal and is used on all types of soils, regardless of the location of groundwater. For pouring, concrete of a grade not lower than M300 is used; if the loads on the floor are large and the physical characteristics of the soil are unsatisfactory, then the grade of concrete is increased and a reinforcing mesh is required.

All indicators on thickness and characteristics of materials are prescribed in design and estimate documentation. If it is not there, then you need to do the calculations yourself, taking into account all the factors that influence the operating conditions of the floor coverings.

The rough screed is located below the ground, adjacent to the strip foundation at the level of the strip extension. This scheme is used if there are underground spaces under the house for storing food or other needs.
The rough floor screed on the ground is located approximately at ground level and is adjacent to the side inner wall of the strip foundation. The most widespread situation, used not only in residential but also industrial construction.
The rough floor screed is located above the foundation strip. Used during the construction of buildings on waterlogged soils, in areas with risks of flooding, etc.

There are no universal recommendations for the location of the rough screed; it all depends on the operating conditions and architectural features Houses. The only requirement is position door frame you need to plan even before starting the rough screed; the level of the finished floor should be located at the level of the threshold.

Options for arranging a rough screed on the ground

The specific option is chosen by the builders, taking into account the maximum load on the structure and the proximity of groundwater. The classic solution is compacted soil, a layer of sand and crushed stone of varying thickness, plastic film and a rough screed with or without reinforcement.

This method is recommended for use in cases where groundwater is located closer than two meters to the surface. Groundwater is much lower - the construction scheme can be simplified. It is allowed to pour the rough screed directly over the ground, using only sand or crushed stone as bedding. In some cases, the subfloor can be poured directly onto the ground without using plastic film. For rough floor screed, the film is used not so much for waterproofing (concrete is not afraid of moisture, on the contrary, in conditions high humidity it increases strength indicators), as well as for retention of cement laitance in the mixture. Without the film, it will quickly leave the concrete, which will have a very negative impact on strength.

What factors influence the construction technology of rough screed

If they come closer than two meters to the surface, then be sure to add sand and gravel. The bedding serves to prevent the absorption of moisture by soil capillaries. If there is a bedding, then the use of a film to retain cement laitance is mandatory. If the rough screed is done directly on the ground, then the film does not need to be placed.

Important. The location of groundwater must be determined in the spring; it is during this period that it rises the most.

If the floor structure is intended to accommodate coolants, then the rough screed must have compensating gap between the foundation. Such structures are eliminated Negative influence thermal expansion and eliminate the possibility of cracking or swelling of the rough screed.

If the planned load on the floor can exceed 200 kg/m2, then reinforcement is required. The fittings parameters are selected individually for each case. The same approach is needed in cases where it is planned to place interior partitions. You should not rely only on the reinforcement of the finishing screed; its physical characteristics do not allow it to withstand heavy loads.

Several frequently asked questions about rough screed

Inexperienced builders often try to save money or improve performance characteristics replace the recommended materials for backfilling the rough screed with others.

Is it advisable to replace the crushed stone backfill with expanded clay backfill for a black screed? At first glance it may seem that this original solution, which allows you to simultaneously insulate the floor. Professional builders recommend using this material only in cases where the groundwater is low, to prevent the expanded clay from getting wet.
Can gravel be replaced with broken bricks and other construction waste? Absolutely not for several reasons. Firstly, the brick absorbs water, when wet it quickly collapses, and the base of the rough screed loses strength and stability. Secondly, waste and broken brick have different linear dimensions Because of this, it is impossible to compact them thoroughly.
Is it possible to put waterproofing only under the rough screed and not use it anymore? No. We have already mentioned that polyethylene film performs other tasks - it prevents laitance from leaving the solution. Over time, waterproofing loses its tightness; under the influence of uneven and point loads, it will certainly break.
Is it possible to stain the floor instead of rough screed? Enough complex issue. First you need to define what spillage is. Pouring is a layer of liquid solution that is poured onto the backfill under the rough screed. The thickness of the pour depends not only on the thickness of the bedding layers, but also on the quality of their compaction. If the backfill is dense, then the liquid solution will not penetrate deeper than 4–6 centimeters. As a result, the load-bearing performance of the floor base is significantly reduced. Conclusion. The decision should be made taking into account the loads on the floor.

Now that we have dealt with most of the questions regarding the features of the rough screed technology, we can give step by step instructions its filling.

Instructions for making a rough floor screed on the ground

Let's consider the most complex and time-consuming option using all layers of bedding.

Step 1. Take measurements. First, you need to mark the level of the finished floor on the foundation tape.

To do this, you should use a laser or hydro level. The size is determined according to design and technical documentation or working drawings for the facility. Further down, you need to put marks on the thickness of the floor depending on its design, the thickness of the finishing screed, rough screed, layer of gravel and sand.

Step 2. Remove the soil to the calculated depth, clean the site, and prepare it for filling with sand. Compact loose soil or carefully clean the base with a shovel.

Step 3. Fill with sand. As a rule, the thickness of the layer varies within ten centimeters. If required a large number of sand, then you need to pour it in stages, compacting each layer separately. The quality of compaction will improve significantly if the work is performed using special mechanisms: vibrating rammers or vibrating compactors. During compaction, you need to ensure that the sand has a more or less flat and horizontal surface.

Tamping is a very important stage in arranging a rough screed on the ground; there is no need to rush. All holes are filled up and compacted again, the tubercles are cut off.

Step 4. Pour a layer of crushed stone ≈ 5–10 cm thick and compact it thoroughly. It is better to take crushed stone in several fractions of sizes. Coarse sand is poured onto the sand, fine sand is poured under the rough screed. In this way they improve load-bearing characteristics grounds. Part of the utilities can be hidden in layers of bedding or directly in the rough screed. There is no need to try to install all the pipes and electrical networks there, in case of an emergency. emergency situations They are very difficult to get to for repair work.

Making your own concrete mix

You can do it yourself using a concrete mixer or order a ready-made one from construction companies. You need to choose yourself; both options can be optimal under certain conditions. It is recommended to calculate the cost of materials in both cases, evaluate your material capabilities and physical strength, and the number of workers.

The concrete mixture should be below average in density. Such indicators allow concrete to independently spread over the floor area. One of the advantages of using liquid concrete– no need to install beacons and perform labor-intensive work on its alignment using manual rules.

Workers only need to slightly adjust the level where the material is poured. If reinforcement is required, a mesh is installed at the same time. Building regulations require that it be installed in such a way that the concrete thickness on all sides exceeds five centimeters. Otherwise, the structure will not work as a single whole, and the actual strength of the reinforced concrete will become much less than the calculated one. The consequences can be the most tragic.

The developer chooses what the finished floor will be like. Regardless of the chosen option, builders recommend making sure to provide reliable waterproofing on top and install insulation. On top of these structures, a finishing screed is made under the tiled floor or wooden joists for other types of finishing floor coverings. Such schemes make the floors warm, which is very important considering current prices for coolants. At the same time, following the recommendations of professional builders significantly increases the service life of floor coverings.

Is it profitable to make a rough concrete screed on the ground?

The issue worries all developers without exception; it should be considered more carefully. We will compare with the use case for these purposes factory reinforced concrete slabs.

Installation of slabs using a truck crane

Simple calculations taking into account the cost of slabs and additional work and materials and rough screeds on the ground show savings of up to 25%. And this is only based on the most approximate calculations. Payment for expensive loading/unloading equipment, delivery costs, etc. were not taken into account.

Video - Rough floor screed on the ground

At self-construction country house or baths on strip foundation, in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and allows you to do without the use of special equipment.

In addition, this floor design is more reliable and durable than ground floors without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying floors on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the construction of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with a step-by-step description of how to perform all technological stages construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to begin work on the flooring after the walls of the building have been erected, window and door openings have been closed and the roof has been installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below +5°C.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion:

Clear the area of land within the boundaries of the foundation from construction waste and remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Compact the soil surface using a hand tamper or vibrating plate.
Make markings along the internal perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
Fill the compacted soil with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
Moisten the surface of the pillow generously with water., compact, and then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
Sprinkle crushed stone lightly with sand, then moisten with water and compact again.

Note!

When filling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control using a building level so that all layers of backfill are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the production of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on the entire main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced steel mesh, and its thickness should be at least 80-100 mm.

Waterproofing. Place waterproofing made of thick polyethylene film on the sand and gravel cushion so that it extends onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
Reinforcement harness. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
Fill concrete. Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of the room in a layer at least 80 mm thick.
Alignment surfaces. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the finished floor marks, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened. Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using special power tools.

Note!

All engineering Communication It is recommended to lay it before pouring the slab, however, if this has not been done in advance, it can be used laterA cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after the monolith hardens.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of penetration of moisture and cold, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heating and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are laid in several layers:

Thick polyethylene film can be used as waterproofing, but it's best to cover the surface monolithic slab layer of liquid hot bitumen.
Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
The second option is considered more acceptable and consists of laying slabs of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) 50-100 mm thick on the floor.
Expanded clay filling must be distributed in an even layer, and lay the EPS boards tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secure them with dowels and wide plastic washers.
Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation. made of thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Note!

Pouringconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,You can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be done in any case.

Stage 4: installation of concrete screed

The finishing screed serves to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing floor covering ( ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. The quality of this stage of work should be given Special attention, because the cost of rework, in case of technology violation, may be too high.

How to pour a concrete screed:

Installation of beacons. Using cement or gypsum mortar, install beacon guide rails throughout the entire area of the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, defining the upper level of the subfloor level.
Pouring the solution. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
Leveling the surface. To do this you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
Floor screed. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
Grouting cracks. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the beacon guides and fill the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until the cement mortar has completely hardened and dried. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose it is best to use epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete that must be applied using a roller.

In paragraph 1 the manufacturing recipe is indicated cement-sand mortar for finishing screed.
In paragraph 2 the manufacturing recipe is indicated concrete mortar for pouring a monolithic slab.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that self-production concrete floor in country house Almost any home craftsman can do it.

To get additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our website. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.