In carpentry there are quite a few a large number of connecting parts to each other. One of them is " dovetail" This type of connection can be seen on drawers, chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, they will rest against each other. In order to make a dovetail with your own hands, you will need a minimum of tools and a little experience in carpentry.
Connection types
Depending on the task at hand, dovetailing can be performed in various ways:
- Corner connections.
- Separating.
- Through.
- Decorative.
- Bevel connection.
- Through connection with rebate.
All types of connections have their own strengths and weak sides, but, one way or another, they form a reliable connection between the two parts. To work you will need the following tools:
With these tools, you can easily make the connection. If it is possible to use a hand router, then the need for the listed tools disappears.
Through connection type
This type of connection is widely used in the manufacture of both housing and upholstered furniture. It is also called “box”.
To begin with, the workpiece must be processed with a plane and excess wood removed. The next step will be marking the nests. Everything here is individual and depends on the width of the board, as well as on the tasks assigned. It is necessary to draw lines across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them into an even amount, set aside 3 mm on each side and draw lines across the end.
Now you need to mark the slope of the spikes with a small marker. The excess that remains should be marked to avoid confusion in the future.
After marking, you can begin cutting out the tenons. This can be done using a jigsaw or a regular saw with a fine tooth. For convenience, the workpiece can be clamped in a vice. Using a saw, you need to cut out one edge on each side of the tenon. You should cut it out carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps that will damage it in the future. appearance. The same must be done with the other side spikes.
The side waste should be cut off from the shoulder line, and excess wood between the tenons can be easily removed with an openwork saw. Residue on both sides can be removed with a chisel or beveled chisel.
The cutting of the tenons is completed, and you can begin marking and cutting out the nests. Using the same vice, clamp the workpiece. The part with spikes must be attached to the workpiece and carefully mark the shape of the spikes.
After marking, carefully cut out the nests along the previously drawn lines. The cut from the main part should be made in such a way that it does not reach the marking line slightly. Carefully cut off part of the waste with an openwork saw. In order for the two parts to fit tightly together, it is necessary to clean the corners with a cutter.
When the two connections are ready, you can start joining them. It must be remembered that the connection is assembled only once. Before gluing the parts, you need to make sure that they fit tightly together. If there are any irregularities, they must be removed before gluing.
If everything fits tightly, then the following manipulations should be performed:
- Two blanks need to be coated with glue, then connected to each other.
- Tapping with a wooden hammer, adjust the two parts. Excess glue must be removed. Otherwise, after drying, the appearance will be ruined.
- After drying, the gluing area is sanded on both sides.
- Then check the angle, which should be 1/8 for hardwood and 1/6 for softwood. If the angle is too large, short fiber will be formed, which may affect the strength of the connection.
All these points also apply to other connection modifications. And they should be performed in the same sequence.
Decorative variety
This type of connection is used in places where beauty is needed. This connection also emphasizes the art of the master. In order to give decorative look thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece, carefully apply a line for marking the shoulder pads. Continue the marking line to the end and mark the excess. When cutting tenons, waste must be removed in the same way as for through joints. Stripping must be done from the ends to the middle.
Before fixing, the workpiece must be coated with chalk for a more rigid fixation. At the end you need to mark the distance between the small partitions, then continue all the lines of the tenons to the line of the shoulder pads, you must not forget about removing the excess. Most of the waste can be removed using a tenon cutter, and the shoulder pads are best trimmed with an openwork saw. To cut out small partitions, you need to press the workpiece firmly.
Using slow movements along the grain, make a cross cut near the shoulder line. The operations should be repeated. After these manipulations, apply glue and fasten both surfaces together.
Bevel connection
In some cases it is necessary to combine two types of connection. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and chamfer.
Using a thicknesser, mark the line of the shoulder pads on both sides. Apply a bevel line on the top edge. At the bottom of the workpiece, you need to mark a certain depth for the chamfer. Draw a line across the end and up to the line of the shoulder pads. From the first mark, put another line 6 mm long. Do the same with the bottom edge. Mark the required number of spikes on the resulting marks. Mark the remaining excess.
Cut the tenons with a jigsaw and fit with a fine sandpaper. In this option, the excess is temporarily left. Apply a line of shoulder pads on both sides. Make a small mark on the top edge of the bevel line. Mark the tenon sockets on the workpiece and mark the bevel on bottom part. After finishing the manipulations, remove all excess.
Seam connection
Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special selection is made, which is called a “fold,” and the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection, gaps may appear in the corners, which can be eliminated by moving the shoulder pad.
The markup is slightly different from previous versions. On the sides you need to draw a line along which you can determine the depth of the rebate. The inner side is marked using the same thickness planer parameters. Below the rebate depth, mark 6 mm, and place the next mark from the opposite edge. On the resulting marks, mark the desired location of the spikes. Draw a line across the chamfered edge, but it must completely correspond to the marked fold.
Marking the nests is done in exactly the same way as in the previous versions, using a ready-made blank with spikes and drawing supplies.
Another variation of this connection is the bevel connection. In it, the entire connection is hidden by a bevel, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling, the workpieces must be adjusted to the required size. It should be remembered that the nests must be made first, and then the thorns. The marking of the tenons is carried out identically to the other option, but with one caveat: between the thicknesser line and outer corner Using a special scriber and chalk, you should mark a bevel on each of the edges.
Make sure that there is no more than 6 mm from the shoulder line to the overlap. At the end between the drawn lines you need to mark the width and position of the sockets. For convenience, you can make a ready-made stencil from plywood, press it against the side walls and continue the marking line, after which all excess is removed. Before gluing two joints, you need to test them. If there are defects, remove them with a chisel and sandpaper.
Inclined docking
Mainly used for large parts. In terms of difficulty, it ranks first. In order to make a tenon and groove with your own hands in this type of connection, it will take much more time. The complexity of manufacturing is associated with the peculiarity of the connection, in which all the edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking, the boards must be adjusted to the same width. A drawing for a dovetail connection will greatly facilitate the task.
The drawing should begin with a lateral projection, and it is also necessary to indicate the thickness and dimensions. As for the vertical projection, it can be drawn, just like the lateral one. Use the same method to design the side view. The figure shows a drawing of a dovetail, the dimensions of which are a specific standard.
The next step is to cut the piece to length and width. Place a small tool on point X and move this angle to inner side. Saw off the remaining ends. Place another small piece on the U corner and place it on the edges. Now we need guide lines, which can be obtained by connecting the marks on the edge.
Carefully trim off the end bevel. Parts with spikes should be marked on the front side. You need to measure the size of the material using the beveled ends. Apply a small tool to point X and mark a line along the edge of the parts. Place 6mm notches on the top and bottom edges. The position of the studs can be calculated from these marks.
The slope of the tenons must be marked on the inclined end of the parts. For convenience, you can use a small spoon. Using a stencil and a square, mark the spikes. Mark the remaining excess. When cutting out tenons, you need to rely on the previously marked corners, after which you can draw and cut out the nests using the finished workpiece.
All excess is carefully removed at the end of the work. If for some reason the slope is not satisfactory, then it can be trimmed after gluing or cleaned with a grinder. If you have to hammer out the joints with a mallet, you need to place a piece of a block, otherwise marks may remain.
Manual frezer
If you constantly have to deal with such compounds and produce them in large quantities, then manual method won't do. There are stationary machines and hand-held milling cutters that, using a special cutter, can make a certain number of tenons or “tails” in one pass. To save even more time, you can make templates. To create tenons and tails, you must have a tenon-groove cutter for hand router.
Before milling, the workpiece should be placed vertically for convenience. Before this, you need to mark the number of tails. When milling, waste will be generated, which can be easily removed with a router.
You can purchase templates at the market or in a store, with the help of which things will go even faster. You need to attach and fix the device to the top of the workpiece. Then set the required cutting depth on the router. After milling, all connections are smooth and require virtually no adjustment.
If carpentry work is to be done and a strong and reliable connection of two parts is necessary, then the best option there will be a dovetail. If you have a hand router, even a beginner in carpentry can make tenons and tails. In addition, after assembly, such a connection looks aesthetically pleasing.
The dovetail connection is traditionally considered one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable. Since ancient times, such a connection was considered a sign of high qualifications and skill of a carpenter. Nowadays, making a dovetail with your own hands is quite easy. To simplify manufacturing, a manual router is used, fixed in the table, and a cutter, which is called a “dovetail”. 
The distance from the edge of the workpiece to the groove is adjusted using a parallel stop. By changing the distance between the cutter and rip fence, adjust the distance from the edge of the workpiece to the beginning of the groove. The length of the groove is set using a limiter. Usually, its role is played by any scrap and clamp, with which it is fixed at a given distance. With the help of such simple devices, you can achieve good repeatability in making a groove.
The connection consists of a tenon, which looks like the tail of a swallow, and the same groove. This connection is quite strong. Thanks to the design, arbitrary disruption of this connection is almost completely eliminated. 
The groove is selected with a milling cutter in one pass, immediately and to the full depth. 
The tenon is made through several passes. First, they try to make a tenon on a piece of unnecessary board, then they move on to making the original itself, which will be used when installing the dovetail joint. It is impossible to make a spike right away for two reasons. The first is that you need to remove a lot of material in one pass, burns or chips may appear on the wood, the edges of the joint may look like in the photo below. 
Secondly, it is quite difficult to guess the amount of material removal the first time. Usually they do this - remove it little by little and try to insert the resulting tenon into the groove. When the connection is quite tight, stop removing the material. A connection in which the tenon fits into the groove tightly, but without force, is considered tight. If you have to put a lot of effort into inserting a tenon in a dovetail joint, you should further adjust it, reducing the thickness.
Before gluing, carefully remove all remaining shavings and sawdust from the joint. Compressed air from a compressor is best suited for this. You can also simply tap the workpiece on a hard surface to dislodge debris from the groove. After this, glue is applied to the groove and almost immediately inserted into the tenon. Delay in gluing may result in the tenon simply not going into the groove, since it has expanded somewhat under the influence of moisture from the glue. Remains of glue that comes out after joining the parts must be removed immediately. This is best done with a wet cloth. You can also use a scraper or an old chisel. Once it dries, it will be difficult to remove the glue. There is a fairly simple way to remove excess glue. Before gluing, the dovetail joint is assembled without glue, “dry”. Places where glue may appear are covered with masking tape. After the glue dries, the tape along with the remaining glue is removed. The result is a clean surface without marks.
In this way, you can make a dovetail joint with your own hands using a hand router. Naturally, not everyone will have perfect results the first time. But with a little practice, the quality of the connection will meet the necessary strength requirements.
Dovetail joinery was created many centuries ago before the advent of reliable adhesives and affordable fasteners. This traditional way connecting two wooden parts is still in demand today. It is used in box structures and in the manufacture of furniture. We will talk in detail about all the features of this joinery joint, the intricacies of its design and methods of creation by hand and mechanized methods.
Dovetail is not just aesthetics
It is a common belief that today, in an era of affordable quality glue and cheap fasteners, the use of dovetail is more of an aesthetic whim. This judgment is only partly true. Undoubtedly, all possible variations of this tenon joint are very expressive, testify to the carpenter’s skill and can decorate any project. But in addition to beauty, the dovetail also has important functional advantages.
The connection resists natural wood deformations well without losing structural integrity. Due to this quality, it is advisable to use it in big details, especially in solid wood products in the manufacture of furniture and drawers.
Using a dovetail, you can choose the optimal strength of the connection: this is influenced by the total number of studs and the angle of inclination of the eye. Another feature that increases mechanical strength is big square gluing.
Anatomy of a Swallowtail
The connection consists of two parts. At the end of one of them there are wide trapezoidal dovetails cut out, and at the other there are narrow counter spikes. The tenon on the edge is called half or one-sided due to the presence of one bevel instead of two.
What should you consider when designing a connection?
When designing a dovetail, there are a number of considerations that will affect both its strength and appearance.
The distance between the tenons and their size determine the strength of the connection.
At equal intervals (ratio 1:1) mechanical strength the highest. But this configuration is rarely used. Because due to the larger number of elements, manufacturing the part takes corresponding time. The likelihood of making mistakes that will cause a loose fit is also higher. Typically a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 is used. In these cases, the strength of the connection remains just as high.
When joining wide parts, additional tenons are made at the edges at small intervals. This solution helps to effectively combat wood warping.
This important parameter, which determines the mechanical characteristics of the connection. When too small corner, the lock will not lock and the fastening will turn into a regular tenon connection. If the angle is too large, the tapered part of the dovetail may split during assembly and the tenon will fall off.
For soft wood, the dovetail angle is made steeper, since it is more susceptible to crushing and deformation under loads. Optimal ratio 1:6. For hardwood, the angle is made less steep - 1:8.
The design principle of the dovetail shape is shown in the drawing.
How to make accurate markings?
When making a dovetail with your own hands, the accuracy of the markings is of primary importance. To apply it, they traditionally use a grinder and a square.
More practical and convenient device There is a special template for these purposes. These markers come in different angles and are designed for soft or hard wood.
Making a dovetail with your own hands
To make a dovetail by hand you will need the following set of tools:
TOOLS
- marking thicknesser;
- malka or special marker;
- carpenter's square;
- axing saw;
- carpenter's chisel and mallet;
- marking knife or pencil.
Sawing the joint begins with preparing the part with spikes. This is important as it will be used to mark the dovetails. To avoid confusion in orientation, temporary markings are made on the parts, marking the front and back sides, top and bottom edges.
We mark the shoulder line on all four edges with a thicknesser. Having decided on the number of studs, using a special template we apply markings first on the end and then on the face of the part. For the convenience of subsequent work, we mark the areas that will be removed.
The same procedure can be performed using a crowbar and a carpenter's square.
Using a back saw, we make even cuts to the shoulder line marked with a surface planer. We hold the canvas strictly perpendicular to the end; we saw with uniform movements without jerking. To prevent the saw from being pulled to the side, you can use a small carpenter's square as an improvised guide.
The waste between the spines can be removed in two ways:
The first is with a jigsaw. In this case, the main part of the waste is removed, and small remnants are carefully trimmed and cleaned with a chisel.
Selecting waste is not much more difficult using one chisel. Having fixed the part on the workbench, we remove the wood layer by layer, as shown in the diagram.
- Dovetail markings
We use the part with the spikes as a template for marking the dovetails. Aligning the end of the first part with the line of the shoulders, we apply the markings of the dovetails as shown in the photo. For convenience, we shade the waste sections.
- Sawing out dovetails
We make cuts with a saw blade. We clamp the workpiece in a vice at an angle, so that the marking lines are not inclined, but vertical. This will increase ease of use and allow you to make cuts more accurately.
We make the cut not strictly along the marking line, but next to it, so as to create a small margin for subsequent trimming of the joint. We cut smoothly, without jerking, stopping at the shoulder line.
Having made all the cuts, use a chisel to remove the waste between the dovetails. This process is similar to stripping the tenons, except that the master is faced with the task of carefully and evenly trimming the left allowance.
We cut out the hangers. We saw off the waste with a small allowance, then trim it with a chisel to the marking line.
- Dry assembly and connection adjustment
Before gluing, dry assembly is carried out to check the tightness of the fit. We insert the part with the spikes into the dovetails and carefully tap it with a mallet. To avoid breaking tenons and tails, cover the joint with a piece of wood that will distribute the impact.
The spikes and tails should fit snugly together. When the joint is properly assembled, a light tap with a mallet is all it takes to assemble. If the connection is too tight, the parts are disassembled, the problematic thickening is identified and very carefully trimmed with a chisel.
The glue is applied in a thin layer to all contact surfaces of both parts of the box joint. Assembled structure tighten . To distribute pressure over the entire joint area, wooden blocks are placed under the jaws of the clamps.
Details of box connections are always made in several copies. You can optimize the workflow by collecting the blanks in a stack and sawing the entire series at one time.
How to make a dovetail with a router
For mass production of parts with such a lock, it is advisable to use mechanized methods. The best option in this case is to use special templates, in which one side is intended for milling dovetails, the other for creating tenons.
Dovetail templates require the use of two different cutters. The first is a cone cutter for cutting trapezoidal dovetails. The second is a straight wood cutter for creating tenons.
We position the part with the “tails” so that its edge is located strictly in the center of the slot. We install the second part (with spikes) flush on the reverse side. To accurately fit two pieces, we use a carpenter's square.
We fix the assembled structure in a horizontal position, clamping it with clamps or in a vice.
- Dovetail milling
For convenience, we mark the waste part with a pencil. We set the desired offset of the cone cutter and cut out the gaps between the dovetails.
On the corresponding side of the template, use a straight cutter to cut out tenons along the entire length of the part.
Cutting off excess thorns. We release the clamps and move the template so that each tenon is in the center of the slot.
We mark the unnecessary elements and cut them off with a router.
Among various types The most used timber connections are: in the main tenon, dovetail, in the joint and in the foot. The beams can be fastened to each other in this way, along the length, at the corners, and in a T-shape. The T-joint can be used in any wood construction. Since there are internal walls in any house. We'll talk more about these types of connections below.
Fastening the beams together in a “dovetail” is considered one of the most airtight and warm locking options for building a house from timber. It is carried out in accordance with GOST 30974 - 2002 “Corner connections of wooden block and log low-rise buildings. Classification, designs, sizes." The use of a dovetail connection makes it possible to obtain a reliable and durable connection without the use of additional fasteners.
The design is similar in structure to a “root thorn”; we’ll talk about it in more detail below. A tenon and groove are cut out at the end of the beam. They must be identical and connected into a sealed unit. The shape of the spike is trapezoidal, this is the main difference.
Dovetail fastenings are used for T-shaped, long and corner connections. For a T-shaped one, this technique makes it possible to build a house from timber without additional on-site overlaps interior walls. This will make it possible to use timber of a smaller cross-section for internal walls.
During installation, the corner fastenings of the beams to each other are insulated with jute fiber, although the system does not have wind permeability. The dovetail in the corner fasteners can be cut off. The cutting is made in a manner similar to that of a half-tree log or timber, but it must have the shape of a trapezoid. Such beams are stacked half a tree on top of each other.
Connection into a “root tenon”
Connection into a “root tenon” is one of the simplest castle views. It is used to splice two elements into an invisible and reliable fastening. The design of the main tenon consists of a rectangular tenon and a groove for it. You can cut out the tenon and groove with your own hands according to the diagrams. Below is a picture with exact drawings and dimensions.
In the picture we see a tenon that is easiest to cut out, since it is located on the side. The tenon has a height of 4 cm and a width of 4 cm. The cross-section of the timber in question is 150 mm.
Features of the “paw” knot
Fastening the beams together “in a paw” can be used not only for corners, but also for T-shaped joints for the construction of a house made of laminated veneer lumber. For the T-shaped look, a hidden tenon is made into the structure.
When designing a knot “in the paw”, a cut is made, which is distinctive feature from other types of knot. But connect load-bearing walls Thus, it is not recommended, since the draft of corners and walls is high. To prevent blowing, horizontal planes are made slightly inclined. It is better if the slope is in both directions.
With a “claw” corner connection, you can make walls with or without a remainder. Experts generally complete walls in this way without leaving a trace, but you can do the first option with your own hands.
To do this, a notch is cut out in the timber and secured. And to give greater strength they drive wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 cm. The design of the T-shaped connection of the beam “into the claw” is presented in more detail in the diagram - pictures below, with descriptions and drawings. Using it, it won’t be difficult to make a knot design with your own hands. 
Features of the butt joint
This is the most basic fastening of timber to each other in a corner, lengthwise or T-shape. For such a connection, special metal plates with pins or brackets are used. Connections with staples are carried out for sections larger than 150 mm.
The “butt” design is simple; the timber is placed tightly against each other and spliced together. But such a connection can only be used for outbuildings or country houses, since the airflow will be high. An example of such a connection can be seen in the figure above.
Features of the “half-tree” node
The “half-tree” design bears this name because the cuttings that are made in the timber are half the size of the section. Half-tree installation is carried out mainly in the corners. It is possible to connect the timber in length in this way, but you need to use dowels for fastening.
For corner connection make a cut from above at one link and from below at the other. To make the connection more durable, wooden bushings are used, which are mounted at the end of the cutting. Another option is oblique cutting, this option is shown in detail in the diagram below. 
This corner fastening is used for residential construction, for example, for the construction of a house from profiled timber, only after carefully insulating the joint. In order to reduce the ventilation of the structure, the cuttings are made not at right angles, but with a slight slope.
Any of listed types can be used for T-shaped connection. But the most appropriate and cost-effective are those that do not require allowances, for example, “root spike”, “dovetail”.
Detachable fastening of parts using the dovetail method is carried out by installing a trapezoidal tenon in a groove on one side of the workpiece, cut into the edges of another element. The type of connection of parts is used in many structures that require the creation of a rigid one-piece frame: small arms, furniture production, mechanical engineering, wooden capital construction.
After the drawing is drawn up, the dimensions of the dovetail are selected individually. The master begins to carry out preparatory operations, during which the bed and slide take part. The material used in the process of solving the problem with loaded nodes can be steel, cast iron, bronze. In other cases, connection types can be made from light non-ferrous metals and plastics. The surface of the product is processed with a profile cutter and finished with a scraper or polishing disc.
Before you make a dovetail with your own hands, you should create a drawing, the dimensions of which must withstand permissible operating loads. When making a cut, it is necessary to correctly select the angle of inclination of the sides of the trapezoid, standard value which is 45 0, 55 0 and 60 0. The connection according to the selected method is used in the system:
- small arms canopy;
- metalworking machine;
- optical device;
- “in the paw” and “squawk” in wooden housing construction.
TO positive properties technology includes high structural strength. The use of the method allows you to fasten elements without nails, screws, self-tapping screws and chops.
Application of the method with wood
The wooden tenon and fastening groove must have an identical shape and be connected into a tight, sealed unit. Dovetail connection, the drawing of which is intended for different products, helps to form T-shaped and corner fastening of boards, beams or logs without overlaps at installation sites internal partitions. The technology for assembling wooden structures makes it possible to use interior partitions construction material smaller diameter. If protection from wind and drafts is necessary, the corner joints of the structure of a capital structure are sealed with jute fibers.
A classic example of the use of connecting elements is drawer furniture set. The electric joinery equipment used to construct a tenon and mortise system for a hand router allows for interlacing of tenon elements using the natural resistance of the joint to the force applied to the face of the product during extension.
The connection, the drawing of which is drawn up for each item individually, can be made in different ways.
Most craftsmen working in furniture production and house construction prefer the method of through-joining joints because of the decorative nature of the repeating pattern. The elements are prepared on a milling machine using a special device.
Marking of connecting tenons
Preparing the material for connecting the tenon and groove with your own hands according to the template is carried out after marking the “tails” with a thicknesser, pencil or marker along the sides and edges of the part with nests or partitions. The dimensions and number of elements depend on the type of material, the width of the board and the method of placing the tenons. To give a decorative appearance to the connection line, the spikes must have the same dimensions and be located at the same distance from each other.
Before starting work on the machine, the material is equipped with markings across the workpiece with a deviation of 6 mm from the edges. The remaining part of the board must be divided into an even number of tenons, measure 3 mm on each side of the marks, draw marking line perpendicular to the end. Using a stencil or chalkboard, draw the contours of the slope of the tenons for the dovetail joints.
Cutting trapezoidal tenons
To form the connecting elements, the box blank is placed in a vice so that one side of the tenons is vertical. On the side face of each tenon, cuts are made that do not reach the shoulder line, the workpiece is reinstalled, and other side faces are processed in a similar way. After this, the part is fixed horizontally, the side waste is cut off at the level of the shoulder pads. Excess wood between the tenons must be removed with an openwork saw.
Marking and sawing out the landing nest
To accurately mark the seat, the workpiece is placed on carpenter's table in a vice in a vertical position, the end of the board is rubbed with chalk to obtain an imprint on parts with already cut tenons. With help special device the edges, the line of the side shoulder pads in the shape of the tenons and the end of the workpieces with sockets are aligned.
After finishing preparatory work you can begin to form grooves at the corners of the workpiece next to the shoulder line in accordance with the tenon markings. The cut, for which a tenon and groove cutter is used for a manual router, should be made in the waste part of the board so that the groove is parallel to the marking line. Excess wood between the partitions of the nest is removed with an openwork saw and cleaned with a chisel or chisel with a beveled edge. The movement of the tool should be directed from the edges to the center.
Assembly of connecting joints
For the production of products whose parts are connected using the dovetail method, almost all types of wood, plywood, and plastic are used. A special feature of the method is its non-separable technology using fastening agents (wood glue). Accuracy check and fitting of parts is carried out after:
- preliminary “dry” assembly of the final product;
- removing excess material;
- stripping or sanding tight areas.
The adhesive is applied to the contacting sides of two pieces of wood. To tightly connect the parts of the structure, use a hammer and wood spacer, providing protection of the product from accidental damage.
After tapping the joint along the entire line, it is necessary to remove excess glue, the product is sent for drying, followed by cleaning with a jointer in the direction from the edge to the middle.
Shape and angle of cut
Standard bonding angles should not be sharp or obtuse. The large slope of the milling cut promotes the formation of short fibers in the corner part. Insufficient groove inclination reduces the strength of the connection between the elements. To solve the problem, experts recommend using bevel markings, templates or stencils. For hardwood wood, it is necessary to select the optimal cutting slope, which should be 1/8, for soft breed of wood, the slope is milled by 1/6.
Decorative connection of elements
A carefully executed grooved dovetail can serve as an additional decoration for household and office furniture. Design options furniture design allow you to highlight the beauty of wood and appreciate the skill of a specialist. The selected type of product assembly corresponds to the standard design proportions.
A feature of the “dovetail” is the possibility of cutting a log or beam into half a tree in the shape of a trapezoid with angular fastening of parts. In wooden construction, the method of connecting beams using the “root tenon” method is often used, when two elements are joined with a rectangular tenon and groove of a similar shape. Cutting out parts for connection is carried out using a milling cutter according to drawings, diagrams and dimensions.