Connecting wooden beams to each other. How is the beam connected? Key groove on the main tenon

Connecting timber is not the most difficult and difficult task. But you should prepare. To do this you will need:

A measuring tool (tape measure, carpenter's corner, level) and a pencil, with their help the marking of the forming surfaces of the fastening is carried out.

Saw, possibly a hand saw

or chain with electric drive,

but it is better to use a mechanism with a gasoline engine;

Hammer, drill and screwdriver.

Methods of corner connection of timber

Now that everything is ready, we determine in what cases it is necessary to resort to connecting the timber. There are two such moments:

when arranging corners in the future log house;
if the length of the purchased timber is insufficient.

And the methods of such fastening are very diverse. The choice of one or another fastening method depends specific situation and the master's decisions. Joining timber differs in many ways from joining log structures. Nowadays modern technologies Old-fashioned methods of fastening lumber are constantly being improved. The most popular are two methods of fixation: with a residue and without.

Let's consider both options.

Connecting a corner with the remainder “into the boulder” or “into the bowl”

This method involves using key grooves. They can be one-, two-, or four-sided.

Four-sided groove

A one-sided groove is obtained as a result of a perpendicular notch on the upper side of the beam. Width to be matched cross section timber.

Double-sided groove

The technique of cutting a double-sided groove involves cutting a timber from two opposite sides top and bottom. The depth of the cut is equal to the fourth part of the side of the perpendicular section. This method provides a high-quality connection, but requires highly qualified performers.

Four-sided groove

The name of the four-sided groove speaks for itself. In this case, cuts are made from all sides. This method provides reliable fixation; log houses made in this way are incredibly durable. The presence of grooves simplifies the installation of the crowns; they are assembled like a Lego set. Only professionals can perform fastening using this method.

Connections without residue

Butt-butt

The most elementary in complexity is the method of fixing the timber end-to-end. It consists of joining the beams to each other and fastening them with studded metal plates and further fixing them using self-tapping screws. \In this case, the strength and density of such a connection depends on the flawlessness of the surfaces of the timber, and they are rarely perfectly smooth, and on the qualifications of the performer. Careful adjustment of the compatible ends is so labor-intensive that even professionals cannot do it. Therefore, the use of this method is unlikely to be appropriate in the construction of a residential building, but it will be useful in the construction of utility rooms, where the tightness of the corners is not important.

For residential buildings, it is better to use other, more reliable methods of fastening timber.

Corner joints using dowels

Keyed connection

The strength of such fastening is achieved by using a special wedge made of hard wood, called dowels.
Installing such a part into the groove of the beam eliminates shifts in the joints.
Please note that the strength of the connection is ensured by a type of wedge, which can be longitudinal, transverse or oblique. The oblique wedge is difficult to manufacture, but to its credit, it guarantees maximum strength and thermal conductivity of the corner.

Lock "in the root tenon"

This connection is considered the most effective in terms of heat conservation. There is a popular definition of it as a “warm corner.” Therefore, it is considered the most popular in the construction of houses made of timber.

The technological process consists of making a groove in one of the mating beams and a tenon in the other, of similar dimensions, and then combining them.
When making a house, laying insulation, which can be linen or jute fabric and felt, is mandatory.
In this case, the main condition for minimal heat loss is the tight alignment of the connection elements.
Additionally, to increase the strength of the house structure, it is necessary to alternate tenons with grooves in the corner crowns and fasten them with round wooden dowels.
When using dowels, undercuts and fat tails in fastenings, it is necessary to leave vertical gaps between the elements of the lock; they will serve as a compensator for shrinkage of the house.

Half-tree fastening

This is a fairly simple way to cut corners. It is carried out by transversely cutting half the thickness of the timber, which is what gave the name to the method. Before assembly begins, a hole is drilled at points near the corner joints to install a dowel or key. The dowel must cover several crowns of the log house at once.

Fastening "in the paw"

Similar to the half-tree fastening, but the cut is made at an angle, which helps retain heat.

Dovetail connection

The most reliable, durable and practically free of heat loss is the T-shaped “Dovetail” notch. In fact, this is a root tenon, just not rectangular, trapezoidal in shape. The grooves are made in a similar way. This is a rather labor-intensive and expensive method of fastening timber.

In addition to the traditional swallowtail, there are whole line other T-shaped beam connections:

locking groove on an insert tenon;
symmetrical trapezoidal tenon, or “frying pan”;
rectangular spike, or “half-frying pan”;
asymmetrical trapezoidal tenon, or “blind frying pan”;
straight groove on the main tenon.

Longitudinal connection methods

In construction, sometimes you need timber longer than the standard size, which is 6 meters. Therefore, there is a need for longitudinal splicing of the timber. In these cases, the already familiar “half-tree”, “tenon” and “dowel” methods are used. However, the most durable and reliable method of longitudinal connection is considered to be an oblique lock. It is more labor-intensive and difficult to make, but it's worth it.

Metal fasteners for timber

Fasteners for timber are special elements made of alloy alloys used to connect wooden structures. They can be either domestic or foreign made. Among the many fasteners, we can distinguish complex parts: supports, angles, couplings and washers, and simple elements: anchors, screws, nails and staples.

Complex fasteners

Support – a perforated fastener made of steel profile from 2 mm thick and subjected to application of an anti-corrosion layer of zinc. It is an angle-shaped structure and is used to fasten floor beams to the wall of the house. Based on the type of structure, the support can be divided into open and closed type. It is connected to the timber with screws, self-tapping screws or nails. Supports are available for all sizes of timber.

The coupling with washers consists of an M20 nut with a stud welded to a metal plate. The main purpose is to compensate for timber shrinkage.

Connecting angles are made from rolled sheets with a thickness of 2 mm and are galvanized. Corner fasteners are available in a perforated version with a length from 120 to 175 mm. The choice of products is carried out depending on the weight of the structure.

Simple fastening

Pins can be metal or wood. Reinforcement is used as a material for production. They are used to fasten crowns of timber to each other. Metal dowels have high strength and are able to prevent any deformation of the timber. However, due to the corrugated surface, which can disrupt the structure of solid wood, and the incompatibility of metal and wood, it is more advisable to use wooden dowels.

They are usually made from birch or other hardwoods. Strength wooden elements almost as reliable metal products, while being ideal for a house made of timber, preventing its deformation. Dowels are made from round and square wood.

Spring unit “Strength”

The product is a bolt with a spring and wood carving, made of high-strength anti-corrosion alloy. Fastening the beam with such an element as the “Force” Knot ensures the strength and stability of the connection, and the absence of deformation and torsion. In addition, the product additionally loads the rims themselves, which prevents the formation of cracks and gaps during the shrinkage process. The recommended installation of fastening units per beam is at least 4 pieces.

Nails, metal staples

Nails, as well as metal staples, are good fasteners, but not for timber. Using them to connect timber is a mistake. Nails corrode and become unusable, thereby damaging the wood. Based on these disadvantages, the use of nails and metal staples should be abandoned.

Since any structure is firmly held together with nails, it is better to use them to connect parts rather than knock together walls.

Wooden type - has properties such as absorbing and releasing moisture, so the connection of the timber must be movable.

You can also watch the video Fastening logs with dowels

Selected for you:

In this material you will learn how to splice timber along the length. It's no secret that for products used without load, with tensile, compressive and bending loads, various ways splicing. We will introduce you to each of them in more detail, as a result of which you will learn how to make a strong and beautiful connection.

How to splice timber along the length: main points

	Technology for splicing timber without load (the simplest scheme).
	Splicing technology under compression load.
	Splicing technology under tensile and bending loads.
	Splicing of open beams, purlins, rafters.
	Features of splicing furniture, railings.

Splicing timber along the length without load

As already mentioned, this is the simplest option. A striking example is the crown of a wall made of timber. The only requirement for fixation is that it must not be blown under any circumstances. Let us clarify: the splice points must necessarily shift from crown to crown, otherwise mechanical strength will be insufficient.

Half-tree connection (the most basic solution). Each of the component parts is cut to half the thickness, and the length of the splice should in no case be less than the transverse size of the beam. Tight connections are ensured by laying insulation (usually jute tape). Often the connection is made vertical, which eliminates the possibility of blowing.

Connection with the main tenon (somewhat more difficult). A tenon measuring 1/3 of the thickness of the timber is cut out on one of the parts, and a corresponding groove is made on the second.

Keyed connection. Another effective method splicing the crown. The grooves are selected on two bars; After laying the crown, a wooden dowel is driven in.

This type of load is typical for different columns and buildings. Here the builder faces two tasks at once:

Avoid increasing the cross-section of the part.
Avoid mutual displacement different elements designs.

To achieve the above goals, a lock is made at the ends of the beam.

The first version of the lock strongly resembles a half-wood connection. But the bevels at the ends significantly change its properties. As a result, the increased compressive load only strengthens the structure.

Another solution, an oblique tension lock, will be of interest to those who eliminate the possibility of parts coming apart during a tensile load. For example, this is useful for supporting a canopy that has a high windage area.

Moreover, the elements that form the column can be fixed with a tenon joint. In this case, building up timber always begins with cutting oblique tenons on it. After which the parts are glued to the glue. High adhesive strength is achieved by pressing the joint and the large surface area of the tenons.

It is worth noting that tensile loads for wooden structures are the exception rather than the rule. The specifics of operation make it necessary to divide the technologies for splicing timber along the length, depending on what kind of element is being manufactured.

Exposed beams

For wood construction they are pretty typical. The specifics here are exactly the same as in the case of columns: fixation should in no case increase the cross-section of the beam.

A direct lining lock allows you to prevent the beams from disconnecting during tensile loading. With an oblique lining, the lock transfers this function to other fasteners - bolts and studs. They tighten the halves of the castle at one point, in the center. Glue is used for additional fixation.

Purlins, rafters

Here the picture is completely different: during operation rafter system hidden from the eyes of the inhabitants of the house. For this reason, it is acceptable here different ways splices that increase the cross-section of the beam.

A conventional lap joint means that the beam has a small thickness (which is typical for rafters). The length of the overlap should be three times the width of the board or beam. Studs or bolts are used for fixation.

Butt splicing is also practiced, but with reinforcement of the joint by side plates, which can be made of thick plywood or boards; Perforated plates consisting of galvanized steel can also be used.

Splicing bars when making furniture with your own hands or fencing inside a house differs significantly from the recommendations that are relevant for beams or rafters. In this case, aesthetics always comes first.

How to make a connection with your own hands that will be beautiful and durable? We have thoroughly studied the technique itself: tenons are formed at the ends of the parts by milling, then they are glued end to end.

Attention! Pressing is mandatory and should take at least 5-6 seconds. After this, the parts are securely fixed in a stationary position for the entire period of glue drying.

But the result largely depends on many nuances:

The block is selected according to texture and color.
The type of wood must be the same. The humidity indicator may vary by up to 3%.
Defects on spliced elements are placed only on the back side.
No more than a day should pass between gluing and cutting the tenons. Otherwise, uneven drying will affect the quality of the adhesive seam and the accuracy of the fit of the studs.
Excess glue squeezed out during pressing is immediately removed. Once it dries, cleaning the part will be much more difficult.

conclusions

Let us now study several of the most common corner joints of timber in a half-timbered frame. Typically, three beams are connected at once in the corners: 2 horizontal and one vertical. Moreover, the pole can fit both from above, as happens on the lower harness, and from below, when we're talking about about the Mauerlat or top trim.
The most common is the half-beam connection. It is easy to do and works very well in combination with a vertical stand.

Further, for simplicity, we will not show vertical beam, since in all cases it approaches the node in the same way: as if it pierces with its spike a connection in which the corresponding groove has been previously cut.

The contact pad can be at a single angle, as shown in the figure above, or double, as can be seen in the figure below. Such a connection better resists lateral displacements of the beam and, accordingly, is considered more reliable.

We have already considered the connection with a tenon and an open groove when we talked about the longitudinal extension of timber.

There are a lot of different types of corner joints: from the simplest to the most sophisticated with teeth and corners. There is no point in showing them all, so we settled on the most popular ones, proven by practice and time.

Finally, look at the connection, which is used in cases where architects or builders do not want the ends of the beams to extend outward. This knot was developed by our friends, members of the Union of Carpenters of Russia Nikolai Gerasimov and Denis Afonin.

http://rus-fachwerk.blogspot.ru/2014/01/blog-post_3.html—link

The technology for attaching timber to concrete is briefly described in the previous section. There are two ways to attach timber to concrete - using screw studs embedded in the foundation and using anchor bolts. The first method is more complicated, and therefore requires highly qualified designers and workers. The location of the studs is determined at the design stage, then, with an accuracy of 1 mm, they are inserted into the formwork and welded to the reinforcement, then concrete is poured. The frame beam is marked in accordance with the design and holes for the studs are drilled in it with an accuracy of 1 mm. The size of the holes at the bottom corresponds to the stud, and at the top a little larger diameter washers. Then the flashing beam is put on the studs and secured with washers and nuts.

For fastening with anchor bolts, the timber is laid on the foundation and determined optimal places for holes. If the timber is laid on a combined foundation, then half of the holes are made in the center of the piles or supports, and the second half is placed between the first. On strip foundation holes can be drilled in any place that corresponds to the center line of the beam and is 70–150 millimeters away from the edge or other hole. In most cases, to fasten the beams they use anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm, so bottom part holes are made with a diameter of 13–14 mm. Upper part holes are made with a diameter of 20–30 mm, depending on the diameter of the washer. Then a hole is drilled in the foundation using a Pobedit drill with a diameter of 12 mm, after which all holes are cleaned of dust. When all the holes are ready, the timber is laid in place, the anchor bolts are inserted and tightened.

Bolts and thick screws are used for fastening to a metal grillage. If the grillage is made of a channel, then the bolts and screws are placed vertically, if from two corners, then horizontally. To fasten it using screws, drill a grillage (this can be done from below if a beam is laid in it, or from above if there is no beam yet), then drill a hole in the beam. The diameter of the hole in the grillage is 1–2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw, and in the timber, on the contrary, it is 2–4 mm smaller. Fastening with a screw is easier to perform, but less reliable. To attach the beam with a bolt, a suitable hole is drilled in the grillage. Then the timber is drilled. The diameter of the hole in the lower part of the beam is 1–2 mm larger than the thickness of the bolt, and in the upper part of the beam the diameter is 1–2 mm larger larger size washers. Then a washer is placed in the hole and a bolt is inserted either from above or from below. In a grillage of two corners, a bolt is always placed with outside. A suitable locking washer is placed between the washer and the bolt or nut to prevent the connection from loosening.

How to attach a beam to a wooden grillage

To attach the beam to wooden grillage, use wooden dowels or shrinkage compensators. To install wooden dowels, a hole is made in the timber and grillage, the diameter of which is a fraction of a millimeter smaller than the diameter of the dowel. Wooden dowels must be treated with protective impregnations and only then driven into the holes. The technology for installing expansion joints is described in detail in the article Shrinkage compensator for log frames.

Waterproofing

The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to process the grillage or bottom beam heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and timber. This material will protect the timber from condensation that occurs due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better?

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

timber moisture;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

To attach damp (over 16%) timber to a wooden grillage, you must use only shrinkage compensators. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the beam is high and especially natural humidity, gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a bottom beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second.

Neglecting rigid anchorage in seismically active or windy regions will result in the anchorage being exposed to external factors will become loose and the house will begin to rock. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains will lead to the appearance of gaps between decorative crown and foundation or grillage

http://aquagroup.ru/articles/kak-krepit-brus-k-fundamentu.html—link

One of the main stages in the construction of a timber building is the assembly of the log house. Before you start construction, you need to know how to properly fasten the timber.

Otherwise, there can be no talk about the quality of work.

The need to connect wall elements appears in the following two cases.

When cutting corners of a building.
If you need to increase timber when its length is not enough.

Methods for fastening timber are varied. They are selected based on the specific situation.

Types of corner fastening

The methods of attaching timber to each other during the construction of log houses differ significantly from joining log analogues. In our technological age, ancient methods of joining lumber are gradually modified.

On this moment V wooden house construction Two types of fastenings are used.

Fixing corners with remainder. Its most common varieties are: “in the cloud” and “in the bowl”.
Fasteners without residue. Its most popular subtypes are “in the tooth” and “in the paw.”

Connecting the corners of a log house “into a bowl”

The timber is connected “into a cup” thanks to the locking grooves.

There are several varieties of them: one-, two- and four-sided.

With the first type of lock, a perpendicular groove is made in each of the beams using a notch. It is cut through one of the sides, usually the top. This notch must be suitable in width to the perpendicular section of the timber.

Note!
For the most part, house-building companies use this particular fastening technology for profiled timber.
This happens due to the fact that the manufacture of such grooves requires minimal time and effort.

The methodology for creating the next type of mortise locks involves sawing timber from both sides, in other words - from below and from above. The depth of perpendicular cuts is approximately a quarter of the height of the beams.
The connection is very high quality. However, it requires high qualifications from carpenters, otherwise they may cause chips or cracks when cutting grooves and laying beams.
The four-sided locking fastening for the timber is cut out from all its sides. This method of fixing corners makes it possible to construct log houses that have increased strength and reliability. Grooves on all sides facilitate the installation of walls, since their crowns are laid like a construction set. This method requires very high professionalism from employees.

Butt fixation

This type of connection is the simplest and fastest. The bars are joined together. Then they are secured using studded metal plates, secured with staples or nails.

In this case, the strength and density of the resulting corners mainly depends on the skill level of the carpenters. It is necessary to carefully adjust the ends of the combined beams, since their absolutely flat surface is necessary. However, even experienced craftsmen do not always cope with this task. The corners are not sealed; in addition, they experience regular perpendicular loads.

Note!
Although this type corner connections and the fastest, its quality is minimal.
Heat losses through such angles are very large.
Therefore, it is best not to use end-to-end fastening of beams in the construction of residential buildings, but to use other, more complex types connections.

Corner joints using dowels

This fastening of the beams together is done with dowels, that is, wedges made of hard wood, so that the corners are strong.
Installation of inserts into the grooves of timber makes it possible to prevent its movement at the joints of the log house.
Please note that the strength of the corners depends on the type of wedges. They can be longitudinal, transverse or oblique. The latter type is difficult to manufacture, but its use produces the strongest corners with low thermal conductivity.

Warm Corner Castle

It is not for nothing that fixing the beams “into the root tenon” is also called a “warm corner”. This type of connection effectively saves heat in the house.

Therefore, it is very popular in the construction of cobblestone buildings.

The basis of the technology is as follows: in one of the combined beams, a groove is cut with your own hands, on the other, a tenon is cut out, having dimensions corresponding to the groove.
When constructing a log house, it is laid in the groove recesses. You can use linen, jute fabric or felt made from the same raw materials.
It is very important that the elements of the locking connection fit together tightly. Thus, heat loss will be minimal.
To increase the strength of the log structure, alternate tenons and grooves in the corner rows, and fasten them with additional round ones made of wood.
When using dowels, undercuts, fat tails and other “groove/tenon” type fasteners in connections, be sure to leave vertical slots between the elements of the lock. They are needed to compensate for wall shrinkage.

Half-tree fastening

Another one simple variety cutting corners is “half a tree”. This name has stuck among professionals due to the fact that it creates cuts that cover half the thickness of the timber. Assembling a log frame with this method begins with drilling holes for dowels or dowels at points near the corner joints.

Before attaching the timber to each other, calculate the length of the dowels so that it is enough for several rows. There are also more modern variety of this connection. With it, dowels are added to corner joints to increase their strength and heat capacity.

Dovetail

The most reliable, durable and minimal heat loss method is T-shaped cutting of corners " dovetail" It is similar to a “root spike”, only the protrusion is not rectangular, but trapezoidal. The grooves are given the same shape. It should be noted that the price of such a cut is quite high.

At the moment, the following subtypes of T-shaped timber connections are known:

locking grooves on insert tenons;
symmetrical spikes in the form of a trapezoid, called “frying pan”;
rectangular spikes called “half-squash”;
asymmetrical trapezoidal spikes - “blind frying pan”;
a straight groove on the main tenon; in addition to the log house, it is also used to fasten the imitation timber.

There is another subtype of this fastening: “in the paw”. With it, horizontally located recesses and grooves in the form of trapezoids are cut into the beams. They should fit each other perfectly. Since such sawing is quite difficult to carry out, this type of cutting is rarely used.

Longitudinal connection methods

When constructing large buildings whose length exceeds standard sizes beam of 6 meters, it becomes necessary to fasten two beams along.

In this case, the instructions allow the use of one of the following types of connections.

Oblique castle.
“The tenon on dowels/dowels is longitudinal.”
"Half a tree."
"Longitudinal root tenon."

This raises the question of whether it is possible to fasten the timber with reinforcement or other metal fasteners. It is possible, although this is practiced less frequently than using wooden fasteners.

The fastening of the beams with the help of tenons and dowels is quite strong. For such a connection, cuts are made for identical grooves at the ends of the two beams. Next, they are laid flush against each other, then a wedge-shaped insert made of hard wood is driven into the groove.

Dowels can also be made of steel. Their shape is different - there are trapezoidal, prismatic, rectangular, toothed and even inserts.

Longitudinal building of lumber “in half a tree” is similar to similar fastening of corners. The ends of the joined elements are cut to a width that is half their thickness. The strength of fastenings is increased by using dowels.

They can be replaced with staples, large nails or fastening plates. This type of connection is fast and simple. However, its strength is not enough for the load-bearing (external) walls of a large cobblestone building.

When connecting into longitudinal main tenons, a groove is cut out on one of the ends of the beams, and a protrusion on the other side. To increase the strength of the fastening, it can be made trapezoidal. This way you will eliminate horizontal movements of the beams in the log house.

When building a house from timber, some elements cannot be assembled from solid material, because... its length is not enough. The timber must be connected in the corners and lengthwise. The connection of beams in length can be found, for example, when assembling a wall more than 6 m in length. How to make lengthwise connections with your own hands and their differences can be learned from this article.

To splice timber longer than 6 m (the length of standard material) with your own hands, use the following types of connections:

Tenon on dowels (longitudinal).
The castle is oblique.
Root spine (longitudinal).
Splicing into a tree floor.
Application

Tenon connection with dowels

Dowel joints are one of the most durable options for splicing timber for the construction of a timber house. The mechanism for connecting in length using this method is as follows: identical grooves are cut out in two beams. After laying the sawn material next to each other, the sawn elements are driven into the groove by a key.

A key is an insert - a wedge that is made of hard wood or metal. A wood dowel, such as aspen, is suitable for timber. Once the sawn groove fits, the key tightly connects the two elements.

The shape of the key can be different: prismatic, rectangular, dovetail, straight and jagged.

Connection in an oblique lock

In terms of complexity, connecting timber into a “slanting lock” is one of the most difficult. You won’t be able to do this yourself without knowledge. But the strength of such a bond exceeds many. Companies performing such work do not advertise this type, as the productivity of the work will drop significantly.

The connection is made by cutting from two oblique ends of the beam, with certain bends at an angle, with full compliance of dimensions. It turns out like a tongue and groove that form a lock. Then these two sawn parts are superimposed on one another, connecting the timber. Additionally, the connection is secured with two wooden dowels.

Connection to root tenon

This is also a key connection, which is carried out by professionals. For such splicing, a tenon is cut out at one end of the beam and a groove at the other. They are cut at an angle of 450. They differ from the previous one in the shape of the nodal connection. A similar connection is used for the corners of the log house. The tenon and groove resemble a trapezoid (“dovetail”). It is additionally strengthened with dowels. With this connection, the timber will not move horizontally from one another.

Wood floor splicing

When splicing into a “half-tree”, an angle of half the section is cut into the timber. In one I drank with a downward angle, in the other up. They are connected by placing one beam on top of another. The disadvantage of such a connection is that the material loses some of its thickness at the connection point, which means that the quality characteristics of the timber decrease.
To give strength, the connection is strengthened with dowels made of wood or iron; iron staples can also be used. This connection is simple in design and can be made with your own hands.

Splicing by application

This is the easiest way to connect two sections of timber to each other. To do this, the beams are applied end to end and spliced with iron construction brackets. Additional strength is achieved by dowels, which are driven into the previous row of timber and there are 2 of them at the junction.

How to choose the right connection

You can join a beam into half a tree or end-to-end with your own hands, but such a connection does not have sufficient reliability and stability. For strengthening, various construction fasteners are used for timber (o).

Such methods of joining together cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing walls made of timber. Experienced specialists will not use non-solid material on load-bearing walls. Acceptable longitudinal connection only in extreme cases when purchasing material required length does not work. But in this case the walls lose a number of their quality characteristics, including strength.

It is possible to connect with each other using a tenon on dowels for the construction of a house from laminated veneer lumber, since this is a durable structure with rigidity. But the quality of the key must be high.

If speak about locking connections(oblique lock), then this is a rigid structure that can be used on load-bearing walls. But you won’t be able to make the connection yourself. When performing this splicing, it is necessary to maintain complete accuracy of proportions for all parts of the cut. And the masters will charge for such work from 1100 rubles per connection. Of course, the costs will be justified, since the strength of the walls will not be inferior to solid material.

Features of joining profiled material

Profiled timber can also be joined lengthwise. This joining is carried out in accordance with GOST 30974-2002 “Connection of corner wooden and log low-rise structures. Dimensions, design and classification." These requirements are not considered mandatory and apply mainly to T-shaped and corner connections profiled timber. It is during certification that profiled timber is subject to testing for this GOST.

According to this documentation, the construction of a house made of profiled timber is joined together in length according to the following indicators:

Internal walls and non-load-bearing walls (profiled timber 80-220 mm long).
External load-bearing walls(profiled timber 100-260 mm long).

When joining profiled timber along the length, special chamfers must be provided in the material design, along which water will be drained away from the joint. The chamfers have dimensions of 20x20 or 15x15 mm.

You can view how professionals join profiled timber short video. In this video we observe the dovetail connection in the corners and along the length of the beam:

What you need to know for do-it-yourself longitudinal joining

Typically, connecting beams along the length is done in non-standard structures, when one wall is longer than the other. The binding is done on one side, in the next row on the other. This way the joints are made in a checkerboard pattern, and the wall looks more aesthetically pleasing. In addition, the location of one joint over another violates the strength and integrity of the timber structure.
The type of splice is selected depending on the position of the beam in the house structure. The point is the load, which in different places can be: compression, tension and bending.
Dowels and dowels are selected or made only from dense types of wood with a moisture content not lower than the moisture content of the timber itself by 2-5%. otherwise, they may absorb moisture and damage the block locks.
The joining points must have a precise and even surface. Before laying, they need to be treated with antiseptics, since this cannot be done afterwards.
All joints, both corner and longitudinal, must be insulated. Insulation is carried out at the time of installation by laying the knot with flax fiber.

When performing longitudinal joining of timber, do not forget about the moisture content of the material. The knots of the material with natural moisture may separate when drying and deep cracks will appear in them. Additional caulking at joints must be done more carefully. It is better to connect dry profiled timber into a tenon or an oblique lock, so the walls will not lose their strength. And if you entrust the work to professionals, the knots will not only be durable but also aesthetically attractive.