Drain pit from. Do-it-yourself drainage hole in a private house. Video. Photo. Step-by-step instructions with photos for making various drain designs in a bathhouse

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the countryside, to be closer to nature, fresh air and the earth. But one unpleasant discovery awaits them there - the absence of the usual city amenities, one of which is sewerage. No centralized system, traditional for the city, therefore for comfortable stay you have to lay pipes for wastewater and become familiar with the concept of a drainage pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

A modern dacha is radically different from the village houses of the last century. Economic citizens replaced the toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilets, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should dirty used water flow?

This is how elementary sewer system: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank mounted on summer cottage outside the building. Various structures can act as storage facilities: expensive station biological treatment, a simpler device is a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage flow through pipes into a storage tank, from where they are removed by special equipment at different intervals.

Regular pumping of the contents of the waste pit is a prerequisite for its use. The only way effective cleaning storage - calling the vacuum cleaners

Most vacationers, especially those spending only a summer vacation at their dacha, dream of installing a suitable storage device quickly and cheaply. Perfect option in this case, a do-it-yourself drainage hole. To build it, you will need several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised materials: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of storage capacity

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each resident. But you need to take into account the incalculable water consumption during water procedures and use household appliances, so for a family of 4 people a tank of at least 6 m³ is required.

The inclination of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for complete pumping of sewage using sewage equipment - a specially designed hose that is lowered to the bottom

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming wastewater, but there are certain limits. For example, the depth of a country drainage pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage disposal equipment simply will not cope with the cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, length – 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The ground level must exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against sewage spills beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to properly make a pit for a drainage pit so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to residential building, water source and nearby obstacles

There are a number of rules:

The minimum distance from the house to the storage device is 5 m.
The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
The pit should be on open space, not enclosed by buildings or fences.
A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage disposal truck.

It is necessary to consider the drainage pit as an object of increased danger, therefore the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

Example of building a brick pit

Stage #1 - excavation and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so if possible it is better to use an excavator. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits of a cylindrical configuration can also be found. During digging, you should monitor the condition of the walls: they should be smooth and protected from crumbling.

If you have never done brickwork before, it is better to choose a rectangular structure: straight walls and corners are easier to form

The design features of the drainage pit largely depend on the material. Let's take a closer look at the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15-centimeter sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed at the bottom.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for constructing the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is done traditional way- with a brick shift halfway in the next row. The minimum thickness of the masonry is 0.25 m. Brick walls are partially permeable to water, but how to make the drainage hole airtight? And it’s very simple - you just need to use bitumen mastic or similar waterproofing solution.

In the process of building a pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand are used, for example, boards and beams left over from the construction of a house

Attention! Only completely dry walls are coated with bitumen-based mastics.

Stage #3 - installation of the ceiling

The strongest floor is made of reinforced concrete. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have too short a service life. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. The structure for the concrete floor is created in several stages. Pour the first layer of mortar (5-7 cm), then lay iron rods on it and cover it with a second layer of concrete. When the ceiling has completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

On the surface of the earth, only the manhole cover remains visible. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drainage pit; just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and improve it yourself, and to clean it, you just need to call a sewer truck.
Installation independent of soil type. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
Protection groundwater from pollution. The concrete bottom and brick walls prevent wastewater from penetrating into the ground, but if it does leak, soil bacteria will handle the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should consider its negative sides. One of the noticeable troubles is the periodic smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

Well equipped, connected directly to sewage pit the road is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. It is better to start building a road at the stage of building a house

You need to get used to frequent visits to vacuum cleaners - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting not occur. The service life of a brick storage tank is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool is no longer suitable, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater.

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their property. But before you start building it, you need to carefully think through and properly organize drainage. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bathhouse, which do not require large financial investments and supply to the general city sewer system. A well-made drain in a washing bath will help ensure the long life of the floors and foundation, and will also prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bathhouse

Drainage in the bathhouse can be carried out different ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bathhouse. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking ones, as well as concrete ones. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for drainage of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, a floor in the bathhouse is laid with a slope, and special gutters and drainage ladders are installed. Any drainage system in the bathhouse must be installed before laying the floors.

When choosing to create external sewerage baths, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

Intensity of use of the bath;
Dimensions of the building;
Type of soil and depth of freezing;
Sewage system (its presence or absence);
Is it possible to connect to the central system?

The above aspects are among the most important when determining drainage.

For a small bathhouse where one or two people will steam several times a month, there is no need to create a complex sewer system. It will be enough to dig a regular drain hole or a small pit under the bathhouse.

The soil type has great importance when creating a drainage system. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to do drainage well. In clayey soils, it is better to equip a drainage pit from which the wastewater will need to be pumped out periodically. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the ground, since water in pipes that are laid above the required level will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bathhouse to simply flow out and be absorbed into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a settling tank, where the wastewater will settle and be purified, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to construct a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and crushed stone. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters a well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of sludge in which microorganisms live that purify the water.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in a bathhouse

Let's consider Various types drainage systems, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This sealed pit from reinforced concrete concrete, in which water coming from the bathhouse accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

Simplicity of the device;
Does not require maintenance;
Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

This water drainage system consists of a pit containing filtrate that purifies wastewater. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

Low cost;
Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

This system consists of a hole that is dug just under the washroom floor. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which allows waste water to flow through it, gradually going into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

There is no need for piping;
Low cost of the device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly drains and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

Works offline;
Can be used to create a sewer system with several points for receiving waste water;
It can even clean “black” drains if you install an anaerobic septic tank.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to install external structures for receiving and processing wastewater. But here you will have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

Internal sauna drainage system

The washing room inside the bathhouse is equipped taking into account the future drainage and the selected floors. Draining should be done in such a way that no moisture remains in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

Leaky wooden floors are the most widespread, as they are the simplest option for draining a bathhouse. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3–4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room flows into the pit without hindrance. Such floors are dismountable so that the boards can be properly dried. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for drainage, since the water will be absorbed into the ground under the bathhouse.
Non-leakage floors are installed with a slope towards the drain, through which waste water will flow into the drainage basin and then into the sewer. Also, water can flow into any chosen drainage system.
Concrete floors are easy to maintain, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for setting up a washing room in a bathhouse. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain so that water can quickly and easily flow into the selected sewage system.

Preparing for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of a wooden leaky floor with a drain. Must be carried out before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bathhouse, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide a drain in the steam room.

In the sauna sewer, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is necessary to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and washing room are located in different rooms, then a gutter for water drainage is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under a wooden floor you need to do concrete base with a slope towards the central part, where the gutter will go, joining the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a stainless or galvanized steel tray on the floor under the flooring.

Video: installation of a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of a bathhouse

When installing self-leveling floors on which the tiles will be laid, it is necessary to maintain a slope, where at the lowest point a drain is installed to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

To install a sewer system inside the bathhouse, it is necessary to use modern durable plastic pipes, which have a long service life and will therefore serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron, and are also easy and simple to assemble yourself without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are excellent for the device internal sewerage in a bath, are pliable in any processing, and can also be with or without a bell. Service life more than 50 years.
Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, installation of a gravity drain requires pipes with a smooth inner surface of the walls, and asbestos-cement products often have rough inner walls with indentations.

Types of plastic pipes:

PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride pipes);
PP (polypropylene products);
HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for internal device plum in the bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bathhouse and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bathhouse with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10–11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be sufficient to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating drainage and tools

To install internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need PVC pipes gray, as well as joints and adapters.

The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drainage system.
We will also need tees size and angle 110–110–90° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
Horizontal sewer pipes – Ø11 cm;
Vertical pipes for the installation of water drainage receivers – Ø11 or 5 cm.
For connecting pipes different diameters You will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
For external sewerage of the bath you will need pipes orange color(PVC).

For work we will need:

Bayonet shovel (special equipment);
Building level;
Grinder with cutting wheel;
Sand;
Cement;
Crushed stone.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for making various drain designs in a bathhouse

Before considering the drainage system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire internal sewer system in the bathhouse is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The drain trap is a siphon that has a water seal that prevents unpleasant odors from entering the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that prevents large debris from entering the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor towards the drainage ladder.

A drain ladder must be installed in bathhouses.

Video: system of functioning of a drain with a water seal in the washing room of a bathhouse

First we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this we dig trenches.
At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50–60 centimeters relative to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30–40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80–100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. Pour sand approximately 5–10 cm thick into the bottom of the trench and compact it well, maintaining the required slope.
We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
We install the drain pipes vertically (1 and 2 for drains). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes with a small margin of length. During the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
We install the sewerage system according to the specified diagram.

IN construction industry The depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. IN middle lane the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north at least 150–180 cm.

To prevent the drains from freezing, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for drainage. Now we need to try to drain a certain volume of water to check the correct angle of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of the septic tank, taking into account that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq/m of sandy soil is about 100 l/day, mixed sandy loam is about 50 l/day, loamy soil is about 20 l/day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will emerge. We pour 10–15 cm of sand at the bottom, and 10–15 cm of crushed stone on top.
In the pit, we tightly stack about 5-7 wheels vertically on top of each other. The top point should be such that the drain pipe can accurately fit into it.
In loamy soil it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the area is sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces will be enough.
Cover the wheels with a durable metal or plastic cover with a hole made in it. We insert into it ventilation pipe, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drainage well: a guide

Drain pit may be made of plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

We choose a place in the lowest part of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and for a car to freely drive up to it, you need to choose a place with convenient access.
Digging a hole using an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig by hand, and this is a long process. We monitor the condition of the pit walls (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole of square, rectangular or round shape.
We make the bottom with a slight slope towards the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill in 15 cm of sand and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
We lay out the walls with bricks. You can take used red brick. For masonry we make a solution of clay and sand. During the laying process, we install an inlet pipe for water in one of the walls.
Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bitumen mastic or other similar material.
We install the ceiling from reinforced concrete slab. The upper part of the well should be blocked on all sides by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the area of the pit where the slope is located. The overlap is installed in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a 5–7 cm layer of concrete. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for several days.
We put a metal hatch, and concrete floor cover with polyethylene and fill with soil so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and at least 1 meter deep. At a height of 10–15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit with external system sewerage. We maintain a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
We put a layer of crushed stone, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay at the bottom, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
We lay logs on top of the pit, and then install a wooden floor on them.
So that waste water can easily drain directly into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor does not need to be attached to the joists so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second option for constructing a pit is a water collector, from which wastewater will be poured into a septic tank or sewer system when it reaches a certain level. This drainage method is mainly used when constructing leaking floors.

How to install ground filtration for a bathhouse

To install such a system, you will need a separate septic tank, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will extend from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated waste along the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large containers made of plastic or metal.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete or a round structure made of brickwork.

Rules for constructing a drainage system:

The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
The distance between pipes is at least 1.5 meters;
The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

We dig a trench taking into account an inclination angle of about 1.5°. We check the angle with a regular building level.
At the bottom of the trench in clay soil, pour 10 cm of sand and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to avoid silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone cushion, and wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
Pour 10 cm of gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to connect the drainage system to the bathhouse

Properly done drainage in the washing room of the bathhouse and its other premises guarantees long term services of this building. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent contamination of the area with waste water. Even in small baths it is necessary to equip a drainage system, therefore this process it is necessary to approach it with complete seriousness and responsibility.

The cesspool is still used, despite the emergence and active use of septic tanks, local treatment facilities. This is due to the low cost of arrangement and the possibility of using used materials. Digging a pit is carried out independently or using special equipment. First you need to select suitable type device and ensure the tightness of the pit.

A properly equipped cesspool functions for many years without requiring attention.

Types of cesspool installation for a private home

Available options:

sealed pit (with a bottom);
cesspool without a bottom.

In the first case, the wastewater ends up in a storage tank, which needs to be cleaned periodically. The pit with the bottom is well protected from leaks. Waste products and contaminated water accumulate inside. When the level of wastewater rises to a critical level, the pit is cleaned using a sewer truck. The frequency of such manipulations depends on the intensity of use of plumbing fixtures (toilet, bathtub, sink).

If the object is small (1-2 people live in the house), purchase a special small-sized container. It is sealed and made of polymer material.

This design is called a drive (available in the form of a plastic container). In properties with permanent residence, it is recommended to drain into the pit large sizes. In this case, the depth of the structure should not exceed 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to pump out wastewater.

Positive qualities of this type of structure:

Sump pit diagram.

due to tightness, sanitary safety is ensured: the soil is not contaminated, the likelihood of leaks is reduced, provided that the finishing work is carried out correctly;
a closed cesspool is installed in different types of soil.

A hole without a bottom has a disadvantage - high risk penetration of pathogenic bacteria into the soil and surface groundwater. This may be a consequence of a violation construction work or operation of the structure.

Features of this version of the sewer system:

the side walls prevent the penetration of contaminated liquid into the upper layers of the soil;
instead of the bottom, drainage is installed, which is used as crushed stone or gravel.

The wastewater first goes through a kind of filter of small and medium fractions. Then they fall into the soil, which also traps pollution. Such sewer systems also require periodic cleaning, but they are carried out much less frequently.

It is necessary to install separate pits for wastewater from the sink/bathtub and waste products (from the toilet). This is due to the fact that water containing a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions drains faster through the drainage at the bottom of the pit.

To maintain the conditional cleanliness of such structures, bioactivators are used. They contain bacteria that accelerate the process of decomposition of contaminant fractions. As a result, almost all wastewater leaves through the drainage. Only sediment remains in the pit in the form of sludge containing insoluble particles.

Open drainage structures are not equipped in the following cases:

clay soil on the site: water will have difficulty draining through such a sewer system, which is due to the high density and fat content of the soil;
close occurrence of groundwater: sewage does not pass through the soil, but immediately enters the water, polluting the environment.

Calculation of cesspool volume

The dimensions of the pit are determined taking into account the number of people living in the house. Their age plays a role. For example, it is generally accepted that for 1 adult there is 0.5 m³ of wastewater, for 1 child – 0.25 m³. To find out the daily volume, the indicated values are multiplied by the number of people. For example, if 2 adults and 1 child live in a house, the following is considered sufficient: 2*0.5 + 1*0.25 = 1.25 m³. The resulting value can be rounded up to 1.5 m³.

A more accurate volume can be found by multiplying the resulting value by the number of days before pumping.

For example, if a sewer truck is called once a month, then 37.5 m³ will be sufficient. If you round up, you get a total volume of the pit of 38 m³. It is necessary to take into account another margin - up to 10% of the obtained value. If the hole is too large, you can make it smaller, but pumping will be done more often.

The depth of the structure should be 2-3 m. It is not recommended to dig a hole less than 2 m, since it is necessary to allocate a meter space for the release of gaseous substances. In addition, it is important to take into account the likelihood of soil heaving, which can contribute to raising the drainage level and displacing runoff. The width is determined based on the initial volume of the cesspool and its depth.

Standards for placing a cesspool on a personal plot.

Choosing the location of the drain pit

The treatment plant and storage tank are installed on the site taking into account the norms and regulations described in GOST, SNiP.

a sealed storage tank can be located at a distance of 5 m from a residential building (but this is permissible in extreme cases, when there is not enough space on the site), the drainage well is installed further - from 25 m;
from neighboring plot retreat 10 m to the cesspool;
the storage tank or drainage well should be located at a distance of 30-50 m from the natural reservoir;
there should be 15 m to outbuildings;
the pit is dug at a distance of 2-4 m from the road.

To prevent wastewater from entering garden plot or a vegetable garden, you should retreat at least 5 m and only after that proceed to installation.

Construction of an independent sewer system

Scheme homemade septic tank made of brick.

To speed up the work, the option of installing a ready-made storage tank, for example a septic tank made from Eurocubes, is often chosen. However, a structure built with your own hands from brick will be cheaper.

A diagram of such a design:

digging a hole in the ground;
the walls and bottom are reinforced with bricks;
a sewer pipe is installed on the side under the soil layer, it is located at a slight angle to speed up the movement of wastewater;
the structure is closed with a lid and a hatch is provided for maintenance;
in the upper part of the pit (in the side wall) there is a hole for connecting the ventilation duct.

A structure with a filter base is built according to the same scheme. However, in this case, a crushed stone cushion is formed at the bottom. There should not be a hard bottom that ensures tightness, as in the first case.

When choosing finishing material To protect the walls from wastewater, it is necessary to take into account the properties and degree of strength of the products.

For example, it is not recommended to use silicate or porous bricks. Such material will absorb moisture, which will not only lead to its destruction, but will also cause the contaminated liquid to spread outside the storage tank.

The best option for a sewer structure is baked brick. It is durable and therefore can withstand the forces of soil heaving. In addition, baked clay brick is not a material with a porous structure. For this reason, it is better resistant to moisture.

If you plan to install drainage at the bottom of the pit, use a multi-layer structure: a layer of soil, sand, gravel or crushed stone. The recommended distance of the filter base from groundwater during the rainy season, when its level rises to its maximum, is 1 m. Sometimes holes are left in the walls of the well during laying, which will improve the filtration properties of the structure.

Digging a pit

Excavation of soil on the site is carried out in accordance with previously made calculations. Moreover, between the outer surface of the brick structure, which will be erected in the future, and the walls of the pit, a gap of up to 50 cm is left on each side.

If this is not done, the storage volume will decrease, since brick walls will have to be moved.

This measure allows for waterproofing on the outer sides of the structure. Even if baked brick is used, the structure is protected from prolonged contact with moisture. This helps to increase its service life.

Preparing the base of the container

The foundation of a sealed structure must be strong. For this reason, reinforcement is performed, and drainage is additionally arranged. If you skip one of the stages, the strength of the cesspool will decrease.

Instructions for making the base:

Installation diagram of a septic tank with a sand and gravel filter.

A sand and gravel cushion is formed at the bottom of the pit. The total layer thickness is 200 mm. The sand is carefully compacted, which reduces the risk of subsidence of the base during the process of pouring and drying concrete. Gravel should also be compacted whenever possible (it consists of large fractions, so such material is more difficult to compact).
The base is waterproofed. To do this, roll durable material, such as roofing felt, is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is laid with an overlap. Thanks to this, cement laitance will not get into the ground when filling the hole with mortar.
A pre-prepared frame of steel rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm is laid on top of the roofing felt. It is recommended to use flexible strong wire for fastening. Welding will cause a deterioration in the properties of the material, resulting in a decrease in the strength of the structure. The cell dimensions of the reinforcing mesh are 100x150 mm.

Concrete bottom casting

To prepare the solution, use cement grade M300 and higher. Due to this, the strength of the structure increases. Pour in the prepared multi-layer base a layer of concrete up to 150 mm thick. This is enough for the cesspool to withstand the impact of a large volume of wastewater.

Installation work can continue when the concrete has dried. If there is no time to wait 28 days, they move on to brickwork after 7-10 days.

During this time, the solution will set and harden enough to withstand a significant load without the risk of loss of properties.

Walling

In most cases bearing structures built using half-brick technology. For large pits, more reliable walls are erected: 1 or 1.5 bricks. To strengthen the structure, after completing the construction of the vertical partitions, the space between the storage tank and the walls of the pit is backfilled. A mixture of sand and cement is used.

There is no need to prepare the solution. It is enough to wait until sedimentary moisture begins to release, helping to strengthen the cesspool. The desired result is achieved when the cement-sand mixture is completely moistened. The result is a monolithic structure that will withstand the load exerted by wastewater even when the storage tank is full.

Application of waterproofing

Work to protect brick partitions from moisture is carried out as the masonry is completed. It will not be possible to protect the surfaces after construction is completed due to the small distance between the storage tank and the walls of the pit.

For waterproofing, coating and roll materials. Bitumen-based insulation is the most common. They use mastics and roofing felt.

It is recommended to cover the cesspool with coating-type materials. Roofing felt will not last long in direct contact with monolithic walls from a moistened mixture of cement and sand. It is permissible to combine waterproofing materials, but this will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure. The sand and cement mixture used for backfill does not need protection. On the contrary, it is necessary to ensure access of moisture to this layer of material. Only under such conditions is it possible for the composition to harden.

Finishing the walls of the cesspool from the inside

Waterproofing a brick septic tank must be done using water-repellent materials.

But this waterproofing method is not reliable enough, given that the plaster layer will be affected by water in the existing storage tank around the clock.

For this reason, add to the mixture at the preparation stage liquid glass. A potassium or sodium composition is suitable. This component improves the properties of the plaster.

However, you should use everything possible ways protection of internal walls due to high humidity inside the drive. For this reason, the surfaces of the structure are additionally ironed with cement.

Covering the drain pit

On top of the pit and brick building closed in different ways:

concrete slab with a hole for a sewer hatch;
a wooden shield, to protect it from water, it is covered with roofing felt, the surfaces are pre-tarred.

Reduce heat loss from the building to winter time layer helps thermal insulation material. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam for this purpose.

However, such measures do not always help prevent freezing. It is necessary to additionally use a layer of soil as a thermal insulation material. Soil is laid on top of a concrete slab or wooden panel. The layer thickness should be 150-500 mm.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom

Scheme of a cesspool without a bottom.

The installation principle remains the same as in the case of a sealed drive. However, instead solid foundation a layer is formed bulk materials: soil, crushed stone. The technology for constructing walls and their waterproofing is the same.

The brickwork is strengthened sand-cement mixture, the structure is covered with a slab on top and isolated from contact with water.

Local sewerage system with wastewater treatment

In this case, ready-made septic tanks are used. They are installed in prepared pits. Main function of such facilities is to collect and purify contaminated water.

Septic tanks can be one-, two- and three-chamber. Each of the compartments solves different problems.

The wastewater passing through them is first purified naturally (sediment sinks to the bottom), then goes through the stage of biological treatment, then ends up in a drainage well or filtration fields (equipped according to the principle of drainage). Here the water is purified to 90-97% and can be reused.

Drainage sewer complex

Distribution wells are being installed. Their height does not exceed 400 mm, the diameter varies from 400 to 700 mm depending on the type of material used to construct the walls. To protect the structure from water, the same techniques are used: coating insulation of external surfaces, plaster inside, as well as the ironing method.

Wells are being closed concrete slabs or wooden panels, provide thermal insulation. It is recommended to equip them with bends. A concrete tray is created at the bottom of the wells; its height corresponds to the diameter of the pipes. Such wells are located away from the septic tank. Communications are diverted from them.

The nuances of operating cesspools

In addition to the above measures, it is recommended to make a compost pit. Its walls are protected with a layer of clay (thickness up to 300 mm), then they are concreted. Brick laying is done on top. Walls compost pit must rise above ground level. They are subject to ironing. Sludge is dumped here when cleaning a septic tank.

This measure is used to disinfect sewage and convert it into compost. To do this, the sewage is laid out in layers: first peat or soil, then sediment from the septic tank, earth again on top, etc.

In small populated areas There is no general sewerage system. At the same time, the need for safe collection of sewage in a suburban area plays an important role. Do you agree? A well-equipped drainage pit in a private house will perfectly cope with the duties of receiving and partially disposing of wastewater.

But is it capable of providing comfort and epidemiological safety to household members? How to make sure that the hole does not cause trouble? It is worthwhile to thoroughly understand these issues before deciding to install such a system.

We will also discuss solutions to the problem of wastewater in a suburban area and tell you how to build your own cesspool and what you need for this. The article contains expert advice, photo and video materials that help to better understand the arrangement of a sewerage point on the site.

The operation of a suburban household is associated with the production of wastewater. Every homeowner is faced with the task of not so much accumulating wastewater, but rather cleaning it. Moreover, a common solution in rural areas is digging under a sewer cesspool. old barrel or tank - ineffective.

If the daily volume of wastewater exceeds one cubic meter (1000 l), then the shortcomings will soon reveal themselves unpleasant odors. Or worse – intestinal infections among household members. Finally, a do-it-yourself drainage pit made from a worn-out barrel is illegal in a number of situations.

Image gallery

A drainage pit with a filter bottom (Fig. on the left) can only be used for gray waste or for recycling water released from a multi-chamber septic tank. To collect brown sewage masses, sealed storage tanks are built (Fig. right)

Porous or sand-lime brick not suitable, you need a material made of baked clay. Only walls made of baked bricks are capable of withstanding mechanical loads from soil movements for years, not collapsing under the constant influence of moisture, and generally not allowing moisture to penetrate into their own thickness.

The best option for a brick single-chamber storage tank is a fully waterproofed structure, which is periodically emptied by sewer trucks.

If a drainage pit is installed to dispose of gray waste coming from kitchen sink, baths, shower, etc., then the brick structure is built with a permeable bottom according to the type.

The bottom of a filtering or otherwise absorption well is filled with a soil filter made of layer-by-layer sand, fine, then coarse gravel or crushed stone.

The thickness of the cleaning backfill must be at least 1 m, between its conditional base and highest level groundwater noted during the rainy period should be at least a meter.

In the case of installing a brick sewerage structure on sandy loam soil, the filtration properties of which are insufficient for the free passage of treated wastewater, it throughput increase. This is done by forming holes in the lower part of the walls, made during masonry.

We will analyze the construction of the simplest option - a storage pit for draining waste that does not perform absorption functions. Its bottom and walls will not let wastewater, clarified and disinfected with a soil filter, into the environment.

The optimal pit depth for a drainage hole is 2-2.5 m. There is no need to dig deeper - the hose of the sludge sucker will not reach

A cesspool is a special depression in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drainage pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The construction of a cesspool begins with the choice suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to choose the optimal location:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
from the pit itself to the fence site the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
the distance to groundwater should be taken into account; it should be over 30 meters.

After this, they begin to calculate optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of wastewater volume;
taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily permeate liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
it should be remembered that the soil layer must be at least 1 meter;
the optimal depth is about 3 meters.

Materials

Nowadays the most widely used types of materials used in constructing a cesspool are:

bricks;
reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do ;
tractor;
special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymer materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the diagram of a cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from falling apart, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. along the entire perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

Required condition is the presence of a ventilation hole equipped with a pipe to remove gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch, which will provide access to the pit for regular maintenance.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's consider the 3 most simple options pit constructions.

Made of brick

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit with brick lining:

to begin with, use thread and stakes to mark the selected area - on average, the dimensions of the hole are 1 by 1.5 meters;
to fill the hole at the end of the work, you will need about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil, the rest of the soil extracted during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
if you plan to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
at the bottom of the dug pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
sharp object by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
after the concrete pad has hardened, lay a sewer pipe (if provided);
after that, start laying facing walls placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using sand-cement mortar;
to increase the service life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
upon completion of the cladding work, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
make depressions in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
use corrugated sheeting to build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
strengthen the ceiling by using rods and reinforcement fastened together with wire;
evenly fill the formwork with concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
Carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

dig a pit, maintaining as much round shape cross section;
mark the areas where the pit will be located;
fill the bottom with a layer concrete mortar;
build metal carcass with the help of reinforcement rods, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
after the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the rings;
the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with concrete solution;
the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
After installing all the rings, they should be covered with a concrete cover, and the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using plastic containers:

dig a pit, taking into account that in this case it will be significantly larger in size than in the two previous cases;
make the bottom as smooth as possible;
pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom and compact it well;
carefully lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
connect the inlet pipe of the tank with drain pipe;
fill with soil or sand free space between the tank and the walls of the pit;
Fill in a small volume of water to see how the tank compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, the tank is not installed correctly.
completely fill the pit with soil.

Necessary tool

The main tool for personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and for the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and rope for pulling out soil. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove soil from the pit. It is necessary to have a tape measure or other measuring device on hand. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that you will have to make a solution from cement, if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, you should allocate a separate container for preparing the required volume of solution.

Installation highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations taking into account specific needs. Then comes the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings It should be taken into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure when dropped. The option with bricks and a tank can be installed manually. It should also be taken into account that to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be compacted with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which wastewater will flow, you should remember that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

incorrect preliminary calculations of volume and location;
insufficient pit depth;
weak fortification the walls of the pit resulting in collapse
walls;
the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

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