Usually n painting work are planned for the warm season, when the temperature regime is most favorable for this. The lower recommended temperature threshold for painting is plus 5 degrees. But now there are many modern colors and soils that are suitable even for negative temperatures. In this regard, the minimum possible limit at what temperature you can paint outdoors has changed.
Features of painting work in winter
In industrial conditions, the need for painting at low temperatures arises if the object needs to be delivered on time, or if there is an urgent need to renew the surface of the building. In everyday life, such urgency is rarely observed, but it still happens. There are a number of features of painting in the cold season:
- The most unfavorable temperature for using paints, enamels and primers in winter is from minus 5 degrees to plus 5 degrees. It’s better to work even in cold weather, because it is in the specified range that condensation will form on any surface. In the presence of moisture, the adhesion of the coating greatly deteriorates and the properties of the paints change. The quality of the coating decreases and it will not last long.
- If you decide to paint facades in cold weather, you need to remember - facade paint Any brand takes 2–3 times longer to dry than in warm conditions. To get a high-quality coating, you need to use a heat gun for drying or stretch the film over scaffolding.
- You should choose only enamel and primer suitable for the winter season. Using the wrong material will cause it to freeze, and the ice will prevent the product from being applied to the walls. The final result of the work depends on the quality of the paint.
A number of modern paints are perfectly applied at zero temperatures and in frost, some can be used down to –20 degrees. Eat good means, resistant to temperature changes. It is important that the temperature of the paint and varnish material itself be positive during operation. If the material is cold, it is placed in a container in a bucket of warm water.
The rules for using primer and paint in cold air mention mandatory surface preparation. You cannot use coloring materials without certain actions:
- clear work area from old coating;
- treat the surface with a sandblasting machine, sandpaper or other convenient method;
- fill in uneven spots with putty;
- if the technology requires, apply priming (the walls need to be primed if this is indicated by the manufacturer on the paint packaging).
You cannot work if it is raining or snowing - you need to wait for normal weather to arrive. Painting should be done with a roller or brush, but it’s better to forget about the spray gun - its nozzle will quickly become clogged.
The most important thing is to make the surface clean and dry. You should also bring the enamel to the desired viscosity. Usually water-based paints are used, which are diluted with water. It is necessary to remember that alkyd materials sharply increase their viscosity in the cold, and do not forget to dilute and warm them up in time.
Primer work
In winter, use a primer that is resistant to low temperatures (frost-resistant primer). If iron is stained, special phosphating compounds are used. They can be applied over rust, as they include special anti-corrosion components. Priming provides additional protection against corrosion and increases the adhesion of the final coating.
Painting house facades
Carrying out outdoor facade works in winter possible upon selection the right paint. After cleaning the walls from dirt and dust, they sand them; if there are areas of old paint or mold, they are removed. Next, prime the walls with a product of the same brand as the base paint - this will improve the quality of the coating. They work with packages brought from warm places. As soon as the material begins to freeze, it is put into a warm place and another package is taken out. The second coat of paint is usually applied after 3-5 days.
Painting brick and plastered surfaces
The painting of such surfaces is no different from that of the facades of the house. It is only important not to paint immediately after finishing the masonry - the work is postponed, the minimum period is a year. If you paint right away, the coating will peel off. Surface preparation is required (cleaning with a brush to remove dirt, dust, mold). The chipped plaster is cleaned, the holes are sealed, and allowed to dry thoroughly. You can also fill deep holes with frost-resistant silicone sealant. After priming, the wall is allowed to dry for 5–7 days, then it is painted with a roller or brush.
Concrete processing
Concrete floors and walls have a porous surface. Also outer side Concrete products weather faster and the coating dye loses its brightness. Painting concrete can be done a year after installation, this is necessary so that some of the concrete dust evaporates. In some cases, it is possible to paint surfaces without exposure - for example, in a workshop, warehouse, hangar.
Metal processing
IN winter time You may need to paint pipes, garage walls, iron cladding of sheds, corrugated sheet fences, etc. Metal does not absorb moisture, so it does not change properties depending on the climate. For painting work should be used special compounds for metal - at sub-zero temperatures they form a strong elastic film.
Tips for painting metal in winter:
- the surface must be dry, clean, free of rust using abrasive devices;
- if there is frost, the surface is treated with a flash gas burner– a brush or scraper will be ineffective;
- Preliminary degreasing is carried out with isopropanol and acetone.
Painting wood
It is not recommended to paint wood, products made of fiberboard, chipboard, and lining in winter. If the house is made of wood on the outside, it is better to leave painting it until the warm season. Water accumulates between the fibers of the tree, which freezes in frost. The structure of the material expands, and the paint applied on top seals it in this state along with the ice. After thawing, the water begins to push out the paint, the latter cannot withstand it and bubbles. The wood also begins to rot under the enamel.
If staining is urgently needed, a test is done first. Apply a wide strip of tape to the surface, leave it for 2 days, then remove it. If there is condensation on the tape, painting is not done. With a dry strip, painting can be done after preliminary priming.
Indoor painting work
Painting the inside of a house in cold weather is much easier than doing exterior work. But the specifics of painting must be taken into account.
Balcony
Painting a balcony or loggia in an apartment in winter may be required when selling to improve the surface of walls, ceilings, and floors. The most difficult thing to tint cold balcony– it’s better to wait for above-zero temperatures and only then carry out Painting works. If absolutely necessary, you can purchase paint that can withstand low temperatures, wait sunny day, make sure that the walls of the loggia are sufficiently heated, and paint.
Painting is carried out only in the morning - the coating will dry faster due to heating sun rays. If you have an outlet, you can place a heater on the insulated balcony, this will allow you to carry out the work efficiently. Acrylics are good for balconies water-based compositions– with their use you can avoid poisoning, they are environmentally friendly and odorless. Such paints increase the thermal insulation characteristics of walls, allow them to “breathe,” and fade and deteriorate very slowly. If there are parts made of plastic or metal on the balcony, it is better to coat them with varnish. The lining is coated with acrylic varnish.
Batteries
Painting a battery in winter has a number of features. To paint the radiator, you need to prepare a brush with metal bristles, a simple brush and a radiator brush with a long handle. You will also need sandpaper, dust brush, knife. Be sure to purchase a metal primer, paint, and solvent. The basic composition must be suitable for radiators and contain anti-corrosion additives and be non-toxic. The best means are:
- acrylic;
- alkyd;
- water-dispersed;
- silicone;
- based on heat-resistant varnish;
- zinc.
How many degrees can such enamels withstand? They are designed for a standard temperature of +80 degrees. Some are available in aerosol form - sold in a can, and by spraying you can easily paint even the most hard to reach places. It is better to remove the batteries for painting by turning off the water supply. If this is not possible, you should wait until the batteries are turned off in the spring. Hot batteries will be painted poorly and the coating will often swell. After cleaning the surface, it is primed and painted in 2 layers. Each layer must dry completely.
Window
Coloring wooden windows in frosty weather outside, it is undesirable, like other wood products. Only the use of heat guns will make it possible to dry the product well, but the labor intensity of the work will increase significantly. The inside is painted in the same way as it is done in warm weather. old paint need to be removed, primed the surface, then applied suitable composition. Plastic windows You can also paint them using special paints if you want to update their color.
What paints are used in winter
Enamels and primers that are used for negative temperatures, varied. Their properties:
- do not freeze in the cold;
- suitable for different types materials;
- can be operated at temperatures down to –10…–20 degrees;
- form an elastic layer;
- Dries faster compared to regular paint.
Water-based paints
This type of paint is most in demand in winter. The products of the companies Dufa and Batilith, Dulux and Tikkurila, which produce many types of corresponding paints and varnishes, are very popular. Good frost-resistant paints Produced by the German company Caparol. A number of manufacturers produce frost-resistant water-based paint AK-115, which can withstand temperatures down to -20 degrees below zero. Other known materials:
- Parade f20;
- Lakra;
- Alpa Façade;
- Brite Professional primer;
- Vincent Muralith F1.
Oil paints
Oil-based materials are almost never used now. They are much inferior in properties water-based paints, their service life is no more than 2–3 years. The products need to be diluted with drying oil and special solvents. Only some paints marked PF, MA, GF are suitable for working in cold weather.
Aerosol paints
Enamels in cylinders are used, for the most part, for painting batteries, cars, and plastic products. They are quite expensive, but create high-quality coverage. Popular brands are considered:
- Maxi color;
- Colomix;
- Dupli-color;
- Vixen.
Most paints of this type can be used down to –15 degrees.
Storage temperature of paints and varnishes
Usually permissible temperature storage is indicated on the material packaging. According to GOST, paints and varnishes can be stored at temperatures of –40…+40 degrees, but individual conditions may exist for each specific material.
The need to paint a concrete floor, fence, facade or metal structures, is also present in winter, when it is frosty outside and negative temperatures reach -15C°. Not every paint or primer copes with this task. Many paint and varnish materials cannot be used in the cold, therefore, for outdoor work in winter, special materials are needed that are suitable for use at low temperatures and provide high-quality coverage under these conditions.
NPP GC produces a number of special paints for the winter period to provide its customers with the opportunity to carry out work at any time of the year:
Winter paints for concrete and asphalt
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One-component polymer-acrylic enamel for concrete BETOXIL has proven itself to be effective when carrying out painting work in winter. Forms a matte coating that is resistant to precipitation and temperature changes from -40°C to +50°C.
BETOXIL can be used for external painting work on concrete at temperatures down to -15°C (on a dry, non-icy surface).
The base color is light grey; upon request, dark grey, white, yellow, red-brown can be tinted.
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Enamel "Protector-M" is used to protect concrete floors industrial and civil purposes, cement-sand screeds, plastered surfaces, bricks, curb stone, for road marking of asphalt pavements, etc. Forms a particularly strong and durable coating with increased abrasion resistance. Resistant to detergents, fats and precipitation, limited resistance to oils and gasoline.
The material can be used for external painting work on concrete at temperatures down to -15°C (on a dry, non-ice surface).
The base color is light grey, can be tinted to order in a wide range of RAL colors (with increasing costs).
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Polymer-acrylic paint is intended for applying protective and decorative coatings to curbs of roads, sidewalks, garden borders, stairs and parapets, basement parts of facades of industrial and civil buildings. The composition has proven itself well on roads, warehouses, garage complexes, etc. Forms a strong and durable coating. Resistant to gasoline, oils, detergents, salts, fats and precipitation, as well as temperature changes from minus 40˚С to plus 50˚С. Can be used in winter at temperatures down to -15°C.
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Varnish for concrete and mosaic floors.
"Lakotex" is intended for decorative and protective finishing of concrete floors, mosaic floors, cement-sand screeds, bricks, curb stones, metal and wooden surfaces both indoors and outdoors. Can be used for outdoor work in the cold season, at temperatures down to -10°C.
Forms a coating with increased abrasion resistance, resistant to detergents, fats, precipitation and limited resistance to oils and gasoline.
Apply to a prepared, dust-free surface.
Paints and primers for metal for winter
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Anti-corrosion metal enamel with a 20-year service life for the protection of external surfaces, permanently installed equipment and metal structures exposed to atmospheric influences in tropical, temperate and cold climates. Provides long-term surface protection against corrosion, aggressive environments alkaline and acidic in nature. The enamel film is resistant to temperature changes from -60°C to +95°C, protects the surface well and gives it an excellent aesthetic appearance. PROTEKTOR-MET enamel FOR 20 YEARS can be used for outdoor work in winter - it is applied to non-ice-covered metal structures at temperatures down to -15°C.
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"PHOSGRUNT" is a one-component primer for cold phosphating of ferrous and non-ferrous metals working in temperature range from -50 to 300°C. Combines barrier and chemical method protects the metal by forming a layer of insoluble phosphates, which makes it difficult to develop under-film corrosion. Dramatically increases the adhesion of the finishing coating. Designed for anti-corrosion protection of new and old metal surfaces, sandblasting of which is difficult. Can be applied in dry weather to non-icing metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures down to -10°C
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Provides long-term protection of the surface from corrosion, aggressive atmospheric influences, humidity, etc. It has high hiding power and forms an even matte film. The enamel film is resistant to temperature changes from -50°C to +90°C, protects the surface well and gives it an excellent aesthetic appearance. The coating, consisting of two layers of “Galvanized Paint” applied to the prepared surface, in moderate and cold climates retains its protective properties for a long time without being subject to destruction. Can be applied in dry weather to non-icing metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures down to -15°C
Two-component anti-corrosion enamel for metal. For anti-corrosion protection of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Can be applied to reinforced concrete products. Elastic, waterproof, weatherproof. Scope of application: structures at chemical, oil refining, pharmaceutical and food industries. Can be applied to metal surfaces at temperatures down to -10°C
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Kigol is a highly adhesive anti-corrosion two-component phosphating primer for the protection of ferrous metals, which has the properties of a rust converter. Designed for priming metal surfaces before applying paints and varnishes, without additional processing: phosphating and oxidation (immersion or impregnation method). It is allowed to use thin, firmly adherent layers of corrosion and scale products as a converter. Can be applied in dry weather to non-ice-covered metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures down to -10°C
Termolen-400 paint is a one-component silicone enamel intended for anti-corrosion treatment of ferrous metals operating at temperatures up to +400°C. The material consists of a suspension of pigments and solvents with targeted additives in an organosilicon varnish. Used at negative temperatures down to - 20°C.
Antakor plus is used to provide protection to metal products (mainly carbon and low-carbon steel and cast iron) from rust by converting corrosion into phosphate corrosion. protective film(cold phosphating technology), forming a chemically bound layer of phosphate insoluble salts of iron, manganese and zinc. Used at negative temperatures down to - 15°C, high adhesion to metal surfaces, easy to use, compatible with all types of paintwork materials
Frost-resistant paints for facades and roofs
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The paint is intended for painting and protecting the plinths of building facades on concrete, plastered and brick surfaces. It is possible to use paint for the base indoors in rooms with high humidity, underground garages, and road tunnels. The paint is characterized by high vapor permeability and waterproofing properties and forms a “breathable” coating on the surface that allows air to pass through, but is impermeable to water. Coating service life at correct application at least 4 years. In addition, “SOKOL-KOLOR” has high light resistance. “TSOKOL-KOLOR” paint is manufactured using modern technologies from high-quality raw materials from domestic and foreign manufacturers. In winter, it can be applied at temperatures down to -20°C.
"SLATE-COLOR" - the paint is intended for painting slate, tiles, ACED, for repairing old and making new roofs based on mineral materials (slate, cement-sand tiles, concrete, plaster and cement bonded particle boards, brick). The paint is resistant to action atmospheric factors(snow, rain, ultraviolet light). The paint creates a protective layer that reduces the amount of asbestos released from asbestos-containing products into the environment air environment and increases the service life of slate by 1.5-2.5 times. “SHIFFER-COLOR” is characterized by high vapor permeability and waterproofing properties and forms a “breathable” coating on the surface that allows air to pass through, but is impenetrable to water. You can paint slate with this paint in winter at temperatures down to -10°C.
Wood paints for exterior use in winter
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For coloring wooden facades buildings and other wooden surfaces. Is different high level hiding power, weatherproof, chemical resistant detergents and UV radiation, water-repellent. Used at negative temperatures down to -5°C.
I went to a seminar organized by the Publishing House “Origami” magazine “Cleaning.Coloring”, held in St. Petersburg on November 14-15, 2011 under the title “Practice of application paint coatings at sub-zero temperatures.”
In addition to listening to information that was well known to me about the types of corrosion and how to deal with it, about Wiwa painting equipment, which I will talk about later in the Equipment section, where I have already described my experience with many painting machines, and showed a small master class on staining corrugated sheets.
I also listened to a very interesting lecture by technologists from the Morozov Chemical Plant about applying paint at subzero temperatures.
Morozov Chemical Plant is the oldest Russian enterprise for the production of enamels. Heat-resistant enamels for everyone known types KO and OS, it was he who began to produce. I will also talk about enamels, but later, in the Materials section. I think it will be interesting.
I had a long-standing correspondence relationship with MHZ. 
It was very nice to meet you in real life. There is no doubt about their professional approach to AKZ. Just look at the trips of the chief technologist of the MHZ Urvantseva G. to many objects where they are painted with enamels, her constant consultations and technical supervision of the painting production at the objects. Great amount grateful reviews about MHZ.
So, returning to the main topic of the seminar.
Paints can be applied at sub-zero temperatures. To do this, the following conditions must be met:
1) You cannot paint at a temperature of +-5 degrees. C. This is due to the formation of condensation, dew, on the metal surface. In general, this temperature is the worst for painting with any paints.
2) The surface to be painted and the paint must be at the same temperature. When applied airless spray warm paint on a cold surface, when materials of two different temperatures come into contact, condensation also forms. Even if we all understand that painting using the airless method occurs very quickly, condensation nevertheless forms.
3) The question is how to paint concrete surfaces at subzero temperatures requires additional consideration.
Of course, a lot has been said about the fact that it is possible to paint with OS and KO enamels produced by MHZ, down to -10 degrees C, without loss of quality, but I did not have to work with them at such a temperature.
I had to work with enamels:
PF-115 and ХВ-0278, at temperatures from -0 to -10 degrees. S. It was simply cold to work further. I painted it in a cold room, using paint that was stored there.
HV -174 on outdoors at a temperature of 0, + 5 degrees C metal structures of the same temperature, paint stored at the same temperature.
PF-100 in a room at a temperature of -5, + 7 degrees C, which was eventually raised to +12 degrees C
As you can see, the temperature regime was not observed everywhere.
As a result:
Application:- the same as always.
Drying:ХВ 0278, 2-3 hours (same as always)
PF-100 - drying 2-3 days (according to the passport - a day)
PF – 115 drying from 7-10 days or more (according to the passport – a day)
ХВ -174, same as always, drying time 2-3 hours.
Polymerization:ХВ 0278, 5-7 days (same as always).
PF-100, 5 days.
PF – 115, not known. When we left the site, it was not yet dry :)
HB -174, drying 2-3 hours (same as always).
Exploitation: XB 0278 has been standing for more than a year, without any coating defects.
PF-100, no negative reviews, impossible to enter the painting area
PF - 115, stood for half a year, in the fall it began to fly off like burdocks.
ХВ -174, stood for a year. It started flying off like burdocks.
It is worth noting that enamels PF-100 and XB-0278 are classified as primer enamels for rust. They have additional additives in their formula and have an order of magnitude different cost. Although I am skeptical about coatings such as primer-enamel for rust, nevertheless, in these conditions they showed the best results.
PF-115, based on Russian SNIP, is not recommended for painting metal structures used in industrial environments. Therefore, the legality of the project for painting PF-115 and metal structures is in great doubt. Even if the application conditions were met at subzero temperatures, it behaved in the most odorous manner.
An example of painting XB-174, which in its plastic properties does not differ from XB-0278, showed non-compliance with technology and the result was not long in coming.
Thus, on personal practical experience From my observations, I can confirm that high-quality coating can be made at subzero temperatures. The main thing is not to carry out painting work at + – 5 degrees. WITH.
Let's understand the terms
To most woodworkers, the words "thinner" and "solvent" seem synonymous, but these two types of liquids, which have different properties, should not be confused. Solvents dissolve other substances, and thinners only reduce their viscosity, making the application process easier. For example, wax dissolves in white spirit, so white spirit is a solvent for wax. However, white spirit is not capable of dissolving varnish resins. It simply fills the gaps between the varnish molecules, pushing them apart, and reduces the viscosity of the composition, which becomes more fluid and easy to apply with a brush. Therefore, for alkyd and oil varnish, white spirit is a thinner.
On cans with any composition it is indicated optimal time for drying compositions (varnishes, paints, etc.), which meets the conditions that are available only for a short period of time, i.e. - temperature 20°C and above, air humidity less than 70%.
But what should other craftsmen do, living, for example, in a hot or cold or humid climate? Will the finish in this area dry out or wrinkle?
Brief information about drying coatings
Finishing compositions are divided into three groups according to the type of drying; the more complex the processes occurring during drying, the more difficult it is to achieve good result in non-ideal conditions. We describe these types starting with the simple ones.
Drying outcompositions varnish, such as shellac or nitro varnish, simply dry and, when the solvent evaporates, form a hard film on the surface of the wood. Compositions of this type are the least sensitive to unfavorable application and drying conditions.
Reactive compounds such as alkyd oil varnish, dry in two stages. First, the solvent evaporates and the composition becomes sticky (the so-called touch-drying phase). Then it happens chemical reaction(polymerization) of molecules of resinous substances with oxygen, causing the formation of a surface film. As the temperature drops, the reaction slows down and drying can take a very long time.
Coalescingcompositions On a wave basis they dry in three stages. First of all, the solvent (vola) dries quickly, then the organic diluents evaporate a little more slowly, thanks to which the droplets of the composition exist in the form of a dispersion. And finally, these droplets, left without water and diluents, merge with each other and harden (coalesce), forming a film.
Due to the different ratios of thinners and solvents in different formulations, the rate of evaporation varies, and drying time is largely dependent on the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air. As can be seen from the Sirin table, the drying time of the compositions is water based increases significantly with decreasing temperature, so you should follow the manufacturer's instructions as closely as possible.
It must be remembered that due to differences in the components of the formulations, these instructions may vary significantly between different manufacturers, and even from the same manufacturer (for example, brush-on polyurethane and spray-on polyurethane).
A common property for all three groups of compositions is that the solvent or thinner must completely evaporate so that the composition can completely dry.
And this happens most successfully in warmth and low relative humidity.
Cold air? Make him move
One way to speed up drying of a coating in a cold workshop is to create air flow. In hot laziness streams warm air move upward on their own, and cooler air will mix them at the surface of the product. But in cold weather, the air is almost still, and drying slows down, since there is almost no change in air at the surface.
By creating even a slight air flow, you can ensure regular replacement of air at the surface, which will carry away more thinner or solvent vapors. At the same time, it will constantly blow the surface with oxygen, necessary for chemical polymerization in reactive compositions. Create a steady air flow in the workshop, but do not point fans directly at the product as shown in the illustration.
Don't complain about the weather, do something
Depending on the weather, you can choose a different finishing method or change the properties of the finishing composition. For example, in hot weather, you can thin the composition with an appropriate solvent or thinner to increase drying time and avoid brush marks. However, this will require more layers of coating to create the required film thickness and achieve the desired gloss level. In addition, the longer the coating takes to dry, the more dust will settle on its wet and sticky surface.
Alya significantly speeding up the finishing process during the cold season (for example, you are in a hurry to finish the work New Year's gifts, which need to be completely dried, packed and put on the floor of the Christmas tree in one or two days), it is better to immediately choose other finishing compositions. Shellac, nitro varnish or varnish polish dries faster than other products at low temperatures. However, it is best to do finishing when it is not too cold, not too hot and not too humid. And before you dip your brush into a can or prime your paint gun, make sure the wood, the finish, and the surrounding air are at the same temperature.
MASTER'S ADVICE
How to work with finishing compounds and store them all year round
- If your workshop is not heated, move all jars of finishing compounds (especially water-based ones) to a warm room in the fall, and return them to the workshop in the spring.
- Do not store jars of finishing compounds and glue in cold concrete floor in the basement.
- To heat the finishing composition to room temperature, place the jar in hot water(photo below) or place it next to the radiator for a few minutes. Do not heat the compound above the temperature of the wood you are going to apply it to. Do not use open flame for heating.
- After applying the composition, maintain a stable temperature in the room until the coating dries completely.
- If an air heating system is installed in the workshop, in order to save money, you should not turn on the circulation of warm air inside the room. It is necessary to ensure an influx fresh air from the street, warming it to room temperature.
- Use a dehumidifier if your workshop is located in a damp basement.
- Do not apply another coat of coating unless the previous one is completely dry.
- Select best time for finishing. As a rule, air temperature and humidity are lower in the morning. Never try to speed up drying by exposing the product to a sunlit area.
Drying time varies depending on whether it is hot or cold
Above: We conducted a series of tests on a cold autumn day. First applied to scraps oak boards various finishing compounds in a warm workshop and then in a cold garage. Eventually all the samples dried, but as the temperature dropped, drying took much longer. For example, for drying polyurethane on oil based it took three and a half times longer in a cold garage at 5°C than in a warm workshop at 21°C. The fastest drying coatings in both cases were shellac and nitro varnish in an aerosol can.
For the “how long it dries” test we used:
Shellac | Nitrolac | Water based polyurethane | Oil varnish | Water based polyurethane | Nitrolac | Oil-based polyurethane | |
varnish | aerosol |
Industrial and construction complexes in our country do not take breaks during the winter, which means that the paint and varnish industry must meet similar requirements. Although most enamels and varnishes require application at temperatures above 0°C, modern technologies allow the production of a number of materials suitable for dyeing even in the cold season.
Regardless of the material that is selected depending on the needs, the application itself at sub-zero temperatures has a number of features.
First, an important factor when painting in cold weather is surface preparation. If metal is to be painted, then it must be thoroughly cleaned of condensation and ice. And since in most cases it is impossible to deal with a thin layer of ice using brushes and scrapers, it is recommended to additionally heat the surface with a gas burner torch.
Secondly, painting should be avoided at temperatures between -5°C and 5°C, since it is in this temperature range that condensation and dew form on the metal surface. To avoid moisture condensation, the temperature of the surface to be painted must be at least 3°C above the dew point.
Thirdly, in winter period It is advisable to degrease metal surfaces with acetone or solvents R-4 or R-5.
Fourthly, even if the manufacturer allows dyeing at temperatures below 0°C, such weather cannot but influence the drying time of the coating - in comparison with the indicators indicated in the quality certificate, it will increase by 2 or even 3 times.
Separate mention should be made of the storage of enamel - regardless of its composition, it should be stored exclusively in a warm room; in the future, the surface to be painted and the paint should be at the same temperature. If possible, the surface to be painted must be heated.
The choice of paint and varnish material also needs to be taken extremely seriously, because the final result - the durability and functionality of the resulting coating - depends on this choice.
Paints and varnishes that can be painted at subzero temperatures:
Enamel KO-870- heat-resistant anti-corrosion enamel KO-870 is intended for protective painting of equipment and metal surfaces exposed during operation to temperatures from -60°C to + 600°C. Heat-resistant enamel has excellent resistance to aggressive environments: petroleum products, salt solutions, mineral oils.
The enamel can be applied at temperatures as low as -30°C.
Facade enamel KO-174- intended for protective and decorative painting of facades of buildings and structures (concrete, asbestos-cement, brick, plastered surfaces), as well as for anti-corrosion protection of metal surfaces operated in atmospheric conditions, including high humidity. Apply at temperatures from -30°C to +40°C.
Organosilicate composition OS-12-03- enamel to protect metal structures from atmospheric corrosion, as well as corrosion in gas environments with a mildly aggressive degree of impact. Temperature application from -30°C to +40°C.
Primer-enamel XB-0278- chemical-resistant primer-enamel for painting metal surfaces with residues of scale and stubborn rust. Application temperature from -10°C to +25°C.
Primer-enamel “Spetskor”” - a coating based on primer-enamel is resistant to ultraviolet rays, hydrophobic, has good vapor and air permeability, moisture resistance, frost resistance down to a temperature of -60°C.
Apply to the surface at an ambient temperature of at least minus 20°C
Enamel XB-124- for painting primed metal surfaces, as well as wooden surfaces exposed to atmospheric conditions. The enamel is applied at temperatures from -10° to +35°C.
Enamel XB-785- for protection in a complex multi-layer coating of pre-primed surfaces of equipment, metal structures, as well as concrete and reinforced concrete building structures, operated indoors, from exposure to aggressive gases, acids, solutions of salts and alkalis at a temperature not exceeding 60°C. The enamel is applied at temperatures from -10° to +35°C.