Folding mini steam room in the house. Small sauna with your own hands. Organization of thermal insulation of a mini-bath

Without a steam room, the bathhouse becomes an ordinary room where people wash. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, setting up a steam room is not particularly difficult. Is not large room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, when arranging it, it is necessary to comply with a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

It is necessary to design a steam room before starting construction of a bathhouse. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The first sketch below shows a small sauna with a steam room, in which the shelves accommodate seating only.

The other two pictures schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can steam while lying down.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.
5), 7) Benches.
2) Rest room.
6) Shelf.
3) Steam room.
8) Doors.
4) Wash room.
9) Oven.

By schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (), the stove in the bath should be located at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by non-combustible materials, then you need to retreat 26 cm from them.

The iron stove has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly warm up even a large steam room. However, its surface becomes very hot, and there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. In the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

An example of installing a metal stove in a steam room

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than a metal one. However, it retains heat longer and it is impossible to get seriously burned on it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the oven at a significant distance from the shelves.

When installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully think through everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof have been erected, you can begin directly to work on the internal arrangement of the steam room.

Prices for electric heaters

electric heater

Floor installation

The flooring in the entire bathhouse is done first. The floor level in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the wash room.

There are several options for its design.

Wooden floor

The easiest way is to install a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

It is important that there is at least 50 cm between the floor and the ground level, and that there are openings in the foundation for fresh air.

This will provide good natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry evenly after finishing the bath procedures. However, this flooring option should only be used in areas with warm and temperate climates. In northern regions, such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Video - Floors in a bathhouse on logs with insulation

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than a wooden one. However, the costs of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting work on installing cement screed in the steam room and washing room, you should dig a pit 10 to 15 cm deep to drain water. Its walls can be secured with cement or tiles. An iron grate is placed on top of it. Water will leave the pit through drain pipe into the sewer.

As soon as the water drain is ready, you can begin installing the screed.

The clean floor level in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work, a mark is made on the walls to which the floor structure will reach. And then they put down the distance from it that is necessary to lay all the layers of the screed.

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

Illustration	Description
	the platform is carefully leveled and removed if necessary top part soil
	pour a 30-40 cm layer of sand and crushed stone, spill it with water, compact it, making a slope towards the drain hole
	pour the first layer of concrete 5 cm thick
	After the screed has dried, strips of waterproofing material (roofing felt, glass insulation) are rolled out over it.
	Insulation with a thickness of 50 mm is laid on the waterproofing material
	install reinforcing metal carcass from masonry mesh
	pour a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick
	level the concrete with a board or rule, not forgetting to make a slight slope in the direction of the sewer hole
	lay tiles or gratings from boards

Video - Draining the bath

Vapor barrier and ceiling finishing

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since hot air from the stove rises to the top. Therefore, it is unacceptable to have places on the ceiling through which it could easily go outside.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

Works	Illustration
A water vapor barrier is attached to the floor beams. It could be: Foil with a density of at least 100 microns; Foil penoizol with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm; Water vapor barrier membrane “Izospan”, “Megaflex”, etc. For installation, use a construction stapler and staples with a height of 8 to 12 mm. The tool must be well adjusted to prevent breaks in the protective membrane. The strips are fastened with an overlap of at least 20 cm, the joints between them are carefully taped with aluminum tape. At the edges, the insulation should extend 15 cm onto the walls of the steam room.
After attaching the hydraulic protection to the floor beams, screw it strictly according to the level. wooden slats 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick. The distance between them should be no more than 70 cm. Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic composition.
Linings made of linden, birch or aspen are attached to the slats. The finishing material is placed perpendicular to the sheathing boards. Installation starts with opposite side from the door. Fastening is done either with galvanized nails or with clamps.
From the attic side, grooves are made in the floor beams and transverse fasteners for the chimney are inserted into them.
A rectangular opening for the chimney is cut out on the ceiling.
A layer of insulation with a thickness of 150 to 200 mm is laid between the floor beams in the attic.
A wind and vapor barrier membrane is rolled out over the insulation and secured with a furniture stapler.
Then the floor boards are installed in the attic.

Prices for vapor barrier

vapor barrier

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bathhouse are built from foam blocks or frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. The inside should be a cold-proof thermos that will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall to install the stove.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

Prices for basalt wool

basalt wool

After this, a water vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized staples.

The following can be used as protective material:

foil with a density from 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

waterproofing membrane for baths.

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples, overlapping each other by at least 15 cm, and the joints are sealed using special tape.

Then slats 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars using galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The sheathing should be installed as level as possible; for this you should use a laser level or plumb line. Installation begins with the two outer slats, then a cord is pulled between them. And already focusing on it, they nail down the remaining parts of the sheathing.

At the next stage, the clapboard board is directly attached. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special clamps.

The principle of fastening clamps into the groove of the board

Finally, even holes are cut in the walls for ventilation. They are masked from above with plugs or flaps. If necessary, install a fan in the supply or exhaust opening.

Prices for lining

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such careful insulation. In this case, it will be enough to attach foil or foil penoizol to them. Then nail the sheathing and install the lining.

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed in iron, brick or electric. The location for it should be chosen at the bathhouse design stage. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron stove:

Installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require installation of a chimney.

It is imperative to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

Brick oven

The brick oven is laid out at the stage of construction of the bathhouse.

Only that part of it that will contain the stones should go into the steam room. It is best to place the firebox in the dressing room or outside.

Video - Basic mistakes and where to start building a bathhouse

Video - Building a bathhouse from scratch. Main questions

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installing a wooden door consists of the following steps:

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

The “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves into the opening.

They install wooden blocks so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the frame to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are attached to special hinges.

Video - Casing under a plastic window in a log house

Video – Okosyachka (part 1)

Video – Okosyachka (part 2)

Video – Okosyachka (part 3)

How to make shelves correctly

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the height of the owners of the bathhouse. IN standard version It is allowed to have three-level shelves, each of which is 35 cm in height. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and can be pulled out as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are quite a lot of options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden panels are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be spaced loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Coniferous wood is not suitable for this purpose, since under the influence of high temperatures resin is released from them.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in arranging a steam room is. In its absence, prolonged stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. A incorrect installation air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs to fully heat the room.

You should not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of bath procedures.

The most common are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

Location option	Diagram or illustration
	The oxygen supply comes from the opening, which is located behind the stove; a fan is mounted into it. The distance from the floor is 25 cm. The outflow is carried out naturally through a gateway, which is located on the opposite wall. The lower it is located, the better.

During the actual bathing procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Galvanized or stainless steel pipes. It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. The pipes must be secured using special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust duct should be slightly larger than the supply duct.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, you should make holes of the required size in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation ducts into them.

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be filled with non-flammable insulation. Attach a protective grille on the street side.

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, the electrical wiring is installed. All switches and distribution boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

The wires are laid in corrugation on top of the lining.

In the steam room, they are covered from above with wooden plinths.

Lights in the steam room should be protected by wooden grilles.

Video - How to properly decorate a steam room in a bathhouse

Who hasn’t dreamed of building a real bathhouse on their summer cottage? But sometimes it is so small that a full-fledged bath structure simply cannot be squeezed in there. In this case, a mini-sauna can be an excellent way out of the situation. In terms of comfort and functionality, it practically does not differ from a standard-sized bathhouse, and the time, effort and money to build such a structure will take much less. In addition, it is quite possible to make a small bathhouse with your own hands. This will be discussed further.

Features of designing the interior space of a bathhouse

When creating any project, the first step is to select the appropriate material for the construction of the structure. And the bathhouse is no exception in this matter. Thus, when constructing a bath structure, builders mainly use materials such as foam blocks, bricks, timber or solid logs. Professionals recommend giving preference natural materials– wood. But this is no longer a matter of taste, but of financial capabilities.

When designing a small bathhouse, it is necessary to adhere to the same technologies as when planning a bathhouse of standard sizes. But in our case, it is still important to take into account some points:

1. For construction small bathhouse There is absolutely no need for a powerful, complex foundation, since we're talking about about small loads. Therefore, in order to facilitate the excavation process and reduce the cost of funds, it is quite possible to get by with a strip/support-pile one.
2. To location functional zones should be approached very seriously, since in a small structure, all the flaws and imperfect layout will be immediately noticeable and will certainly cause inconvenience.
3. It is best to place the stove in the dressing room so that it does not interfere with going from the washing room to the steam room and vice versa. The firebox must be protected as much as possible from spontaneous combustion.
4. The principle of building rooms in a mini-bath should be absolutely the same as that of a standard one. So, the shelves must be installed along a blank wall, the door threshold should be raised as high as possible, and the frame should be made low. All this is done with the aim of trapping steam inside even when the door is opened.
5. Under no circumstances should there be locks in bath rooms, and all doors should only open outwards.

Attention! To make it convenient to wash and comfortably steam in a bathhouse, the area of ​​the structure must be calculated in such a way that its useful part is at least 10 square meters. m.

Basic drawing of a mini bath: a compact and functional solution for a summer residence

So let's consider simplest project bath design. Any bathhouse should have four main rooms: a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room and a relaxation room. It is necessary to clearly understand what minimum dimensions each of them can have. So, for the dressing room and steam room you can choose the optimal dimensions - 1.5x2 m; the washing area can be 1x1 m; and the rest room is 2 times larger than the washing room.

Construction of the foundation

After determining all the basic parameters of the bath premises, you can proceed directly to construction work. When choosing the appropriate type of foundation, pay attention Special attention on the type of soil of the site on which the bathhouse will be built. If the soil is hard enough and the groundwater is deep, then a lightweight foundation will be sufficient. We lay flat stones around the markings of the future building, cover them with a small layer of clay and lightly press them. We lay wooden beams on top. We complete the process by covering the beams with waterproofing bitumen.

If there is soft or wet soil on the site, use a strip foundation. Prepare a trench, fill it with a layer of sand, then crushed stone and compact it tightly. Then place the reinforcing mesh on top. All that remains is to prepare a cement solution with which the pit will need to be filled. Don’t forget about waterproofing: roofing felt sheets can be used for this purpose.

Frame construction

There are many options for constructing bath walls. We will use the simplest and fastest - frame. For its construction we will need the following materials:

• wooden blocks (5x5 cm);
• boards (minimum thickness – 2.5 cm);
• foil/film for waterproofing;
• thermal insulation.

Frame mini bath: the simplest and fastest construction option

According to a previously prepared project, a frame of beams is assembled. The inside is lined with boards. You can use ordinary screws or anchors as fasteners. Don't forget about heat and waterproofing. The first thing we install is a material that does not allow heat from the bathhouse to pass out. For this purpose, you can use expanded clay, sawdust or mineral wool (rarely used). Bitumen mastic is suitable for creating a waterproofing layer. The final stage of wall construction is the internal board covering (not mandatory, but a desirable element).

Advice. For finishing the washing area, it is best to use materials that can withstand frequent contact with water: galvanized steel, polystyrene, etc.

All that's left to do is build a roof. First we prepare rafter system and mount it on the frame. Then we begin laying the roof: metal tiles, slate, etc. will do. Don't forget about the chimney - you need to leave a free opening on the roof for it.

To complete the appearance of the bathhouse, lining or a block house is used as a protective and at the same time decorative element. Lining is the most common option for finishing the external frame of a bathhouse. This material is cheap, practical and durable. In addition, it is a fairly successful imitation of a wooden beam. The block house is similar in appearance to the lining, but differs in a more presentable appearance and quality of wood.

A mini bathhouse sheathed externally in wood will delight with its aesthetic appearance

Conducting communications

We have finished decorating the bathhouse, all that remains is to carry out communications. Let's start with the water and sewerage system. The water supply system (we use the gravity principle) is installed as follows:

1. We prepare two 50-liter water tanks, as well as a hose and mixers.
2. We install the containers so that the tank with cold water was half a meter higher than the hot tank.
3. We connect the tanks with a hose: connect one end to the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the other to the top of the “hot” tank.
4. As an additional connecting element we use a pipe with a mixer.

To ensure complete drainage of water after a bath “session”, it is necessary to design an effective drainage system. This is quite easy to do. You just need to dig drainage well not far from the bathhouse, and make drain holes in the washing room, to which pipes should be brought at a slight angle and directed to the well.

Diagram of one of the options for connecting communications to a mini bath

A mini-oven or heating element is quite suitable for heating water in the washing room. To ensure sufficient air ventilation in the bathhouse, it is enough to make several wall holes near the entrance and close them with special barriers.

At this point, the process of constructing a mini-bath for a summer residence can be considered complete. Follow the instructions in this article and you will be able to build a convenient and quality sauna for your family.

Video: Do-it-yourself mini sauna for your dacha

remodelo.ru

Do-it-yourself mini-sauna. Mini-bath construction technology

The Russian bath is an integral part national traditions, as well as a place where they improve their health and receive a charge of vigor and strength. Many owners suburban areas dream of having a bathhouse on their territory, but give up their dream because... believe that buying or building it will cost a considerable amount and will also take too much large plot yard But it turns out that it is possible to build an inexpensive compact bathhouse, the so-called mini version, with your own hands.

Mini bath: the better to insulate a homemade structure

A mini sauna is a small structure compared to a full sauna, in some ways inferior to it in terms of capabilities, but quite acceptable for home use one or two people.

Foam plastic is an inexpensive and high-quality solution for thermal insulation. Today, many people underestimate its properties, but a layer of this material, 12 cm thick, performs its function with the same success as mineral wool laid out in an eighteen-centimeter layer or wood 45 cm thick.

The range of temperatures with which foam plastic copes well ranges from -100 to +80 degrees, despite the fact that such a temperature does not allow even lightly touching the surface.

Let's consider the option of building a mini bathhouse for a summer residence using the example of a structure that is 3 meters long, 2.5 meters wide, and 2.1 meters high. It will consist of two rooms of equal size - a dressing room and a steam room.

Materials needed to build a homemade mini sauna

Before you build a mini sauna, you should prepare everything necessary materials:

• beams with a section of 10x10 cm, 3 m in length - 25 pcs.;
• edged boards 2 cm thick - 1.5 cubic meters;
• edged floor boards 4 cm thick - 0.3 cubic meters;
• construction foam 10 cm thick - 33 square meters;
• beams for rafters 10x5 cm, 2 m long - 8 pcs.;
• 2 cylinders of polyurethane foam;

• cement for the foundation - 4 bags of 50 kg;
• roofing material, such as slate or roofing felt, or tiles - 15 square meters;
• lining - 0.37 cubic meters;
• aluminum foil for vapor barrier - 20 square meters;
• siding – 23 square meters;
• bricks for the stove – 250 pcs. or heating element;
• door that will close the oven - 1 pc.;
• two tanks, the dimensions of which are 37x32x12 cm.

Self-construction of a mini bath

The process of erecting a bath structure consists of the following stages:

• in the garden area, select a place for the future bathhouse. It should be located as far as possible from residential buildings;
• draw up a mini bath project. It should include detailed diagram, printed on paper, all frame parts with dimensions;

• take a piece of string and use it to mark the perimeter of the future foundation and drive small stakes into its corners. In our case, the perimeter will be 3x2.5 meters;
• then mark the place that the stove foundation will occupy, for us it is 75x60 cm;
• In the four corners marked with stakes, dig holes about one and a half meters deep. Their diameter will depend on the width of your shovel;
• in the same way, dig recesses for the foundation for the furnace, their depth should be the same;
• in four dug holes, install formwork under the foundation, measuring 30x30 cm. It should rise 20-25 cm above the surface;
• pour concrete into the formwork of both foundations;
• after two weeks, remove the formwork and fill the resulting voids with soil. The foundation should be covered with roofing felt, this is necessary for waterproofing;
• Next, assemble the frame mini bath, guided by the previously drawn up project: nail the rafters, then the boards, lay roofing material;
• Next, install the window and door;

• Cover the frame on the inside with a board;
• laying down flooring, do not forget to leave a hole for the stove;
• Cut out pieces of foam to the required size and cover all surfaces of the walls and ceiling with them. Fill the resulting void between the joints with polyurethane foam;
• cover the outside of the building with boards;
• Cover the walls and ceiling of the steam room with a vapor barrier, in our case it is foil;
• after this, cover the walls and ceilings of both rooms with clapboard;
• This is followed by laying the stove or installing a heating element. If you are doing masonry, then follow the diagram:

• at the last stage, cover the entire surface of the structure from the outside with siding.

Arrangement of communications

If your country home does not have running water, then the flow of water into your homemade bathhouse is done by gravity. To do this, you should stock up on hoses, mixers and two 50-liter tanks.

The “hot” and “cold” tanks are located with a difference of half a meter in height, the “hot” one is higher, the “cold” one is lower. The hose is connected to both tanks: one end to the bottom of the “cold” tank, and the other end to the top of the “hot” one.

Different temperatures in both tanks will allow the water to circulate through the pipeline on its own. In order to supply water to the shower from one tank to another, a separate pipe equipped with a tap is pulled.

To arrange the drainage of water, you need to dig a drain hole and purchase drainage pipes. If they are installed at an angle, then sewage water they will run into the pit themselves.

The drainage system is arranged as follows:

• Not far from the bathhouse building, dig a hole the size of a square meter. It is necessary to find out in advance the distance to which the soil freezes in your area. If it is 60 cm and above, then the hole needs to be dug to a depth of about 1.5 meters;
• fill this hole with either small pieces of bricks, or crushed stone, or expanded clay. The level of the selected material should be approximately 50 cm higher than the distance over which the ground freezes;
• Cover the remaining distance to the top with earth and compact it thoroughly.

All work must be carried out in strict compliance with technological standards, otherwise the drainage system will freeze and water will accumulate in the pipeline and in the underground. It will be impossible to use the bathhouse, and the floors will begin to rot.

If the soil does not absorb water very well, then you should not dig a hole for sewerage. It is better to arrange a direct flow so that the water flows out through the pipeline. To do this, you need a pit, the manufacture of which can be made from any materials, the main condition is complete tightness, otherwise all the odors characteristic of sewage drains will poison your stay in the bathhouse. Water from the pit will flow down the slope. A drain with a pit is usually equipped with a water seal:

• Having retreated 90-120 mm from the bottom, insert a pipe to drain the water. Install the plate on its three sides without attaching it;
• the plate should not reach the bottom by 50-60 mm. Due to this, a water seal appears that does not let odors into the bathhouse.

When arranging communications, do not forget about this important point like ventilation. The riser is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. A cap or deflector is placed on top of it.

Most often, dense polyethylene pipes are used for these purposes; PVC is not suitable in this case. To the sewer system from such pipes it is possible to connect not only a steam room and a washing room, but also a toilet, if provided for by the project.

There are two types of flooring in the bathhouse:

• leaky;
• leak-proof.

In the first option, the boards are laid, leaving gaps of half a centimeter, and not attached too tightly, they should lie freely. This installation option allows them to dry if necessary. Also, the boards of leaking floors are located at an angle. This allows the water to drain into the pan underneath and from there into the pit.

Baths sewer systems there are three types:

• gravity;
• non-pressure;
• connected to the sewer.

All these systems can be installed without the help of specialists. For this, thin-walled plastic and shaped pipes, 5-10 cm thick, are used. They are connected to each other with seals, which must be of high quality to ensure complete tightness of the connections. The drainage system must be designed in such a way that it has a minimum of branches. The sewer pipe is led out of the building to the outside, into a discharge pipe located in the ground, at a greater distance from the surface than the freezing depth of the soil.

Heating a mini bath

Water can be heated in two ways:

• using a mini sauna stove installed in the steam room;
• through a heating element purchased in a store.

If you decide to install a stove, you will need to purchase a U-shaped pipe and, going around the base of the chimney, place it in the hottest place of the stove. In this case, the end of the pipe from which water is supplied must be located on the body, and the outlet end must be located 50 mm above it.

A simpler solution is a heating element. It is installed under the tank containing cold water and connected to the system using hoses and pipes made of of stainless steel.

Arrangement of ventilation and light in the mini bath

Mini baths, photos of which are presented on the page, can have different sizes and appearance. Often, to ensure good ventilation in them, you do not have to spend money on various devices. You just need to cut in the door small window and screw a door or shutter to it.

To illuminate the mini bath room, halogen lamps should be installed. You just need to purchase those that have a heat-resistant case. By connecting the lighting system to a small transformer, you can reduce the voltage to 12V.

The dimensions of the mini bath, as well as the number of rooms in it, may vary depending on your requirements, preferences and the size of the area that you can allocate for construction.

recn.ru

Do-it-yourself or custom-made mini sauna for your dacha

If the area is so small that it seems impossible to squeeze in a bathhouse, build a compact structure. A mini sauna for a dacha is in no way inferior to a large one in terms of comfort and convenience. To build a mini bathhouse you won’t need a lot of materials, so you can build such a structure for your dacha with your own hands at minimal cost. Often, novice builders are interested in what place to allocate a mini bathhouse on the site, what dimensions and materials are needed for construction.

Options for country baths

Which is better to build a mini bathhouse on a summer cottage?

Frame

Compact sauna based on a frame made of lightweight insulated panels in the form wooden frame easy to assemble. There is no need to build a foundation for it. A layer of insulation and waterproofing materials are placed in the space between the frames, and then the frame is sheathed with boards or other materials. At the location of the steam room, insulation is laid in several layers. This allows you to make a high-quality steam room.

How to make a frame bath

Log

Lovers of hot steam prefer a log mini-sauna in which you can wash all year round. But for it you will have to build a foundation. If you are ready to allocate a decent amount from your budget, pay attention to this option.

Mini sauna in a country house

If the area of ​​the house allows, select a small corner for a mini-bath or equip it in the bathroom. To do this, the room is insulated and removable shelves are made. The walls and ceiling are covered with clapboard. Heating is carried out using an electric furnace or heater.

Note! It is better to buy a special stove designed for built-in baths, with a container for stones.

The room must be equipped with good ventilation. The door from such a bathhouse should go out onto the street.

Bathhouse barrel

The choice of many summer residents is a barrel bath. This is a barrel-shaped log house, assembled from tongue-and-groove boards and tightly tied with clamps. Since there are no corners, the air circulates according to the principle of convection, so the room quickly heats up. Thanks to its rounded shape, the mini bathhouse is ventilated from all sides, which helps to avoid rotting of the building. The structure is installed on the beams, which are necessarily impregnated with anti-rot compounds. Such designs can be purchased ready-made by choosing a minimal design for a mini bath that can accommodate 2 people at the same time.

There are many options for mini baths. Some summer residents even equip mobile bathhouses on wheels.

The mobile sauna trailer will become ideal option for a small area.

Calculation

Before building a mini bathhouse for your dacha, make a sketch of the project or at least sketch out a schematic plan. You should display:

• where the main facilities will be located;
• Dimensions of the mini bath premises.

The compact dimensions of a bathhouse in a country house are calculated based on the number of people. You can choose a ready-made mini bath project for any quantity. Competent design for a mini bathhouse will reduce construction time.

Sizing

When they begin to build a mini bathhouse with their own hands, many novice builders think about the best dimensions to make. IN standard projects for mini baths the dimensions are:

• length 6 m;
• height – 2 m;
• width – 2.2 m.

Standard mini-bath plan

Inside, the mini bathhouse at the dacha is divided into functional rooms:

• dressing room 2 x 2 m;
• shower or sink 1.5 x 2;
• steam room 1.5 x 2 meters.

Ready-made, purchased structures have these dimensions; you need to build your own project based on your desires and capabilities.

Correct calculation of the dimensions of the bathhouse premises is very important.

Then you must think about what kind of foundation you will make. If your site has fairly hard and dry soil, you can make a lightweight base.

If the soil is weak, then there is no doubt about the choice of foundation option - only strip foundation. To do this, dig a trench, fill it with sand and gravel, compact them well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh and fill everything concrete mortar.

A columnar foundation is also suitable for a mini bath. If the building is installed on stilts, careful thermal insulation of the floor will be required.

Walling

When building a mini bathhouse, you cannot do without erecting walls. The most economical way is frame walls. First you need to line the inside with clapboard. Then thermal insulation is formed. Mineral wool is suitable for it; sawdust with clay; expanded clay

Advice! Add to insulation broken glass to protect it from rodents.

Cover the thermal insulation with polystyrene sheets. Covering the outside with clapboard or siding will complete the wall construction work. You can choose the finishing of the building in the same style as the house.

Walls finished with molding look very beautiful

If you decide to build a small log bathhouse, choose wood from pine or other coniferous species. Knowing what requirements breeds must meet different trees, you can easily choose the material that meets your requirements for a mini bath.

Floor

It is better to make the floor from waterproof materials. Most often, wooden floors are installed in the bathhouse. They are made with a slope so that the water flows into the drainage basin and then flows through a plastic or metal pipe into the septic tank or drainage system.

Before laying the floors, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic. It is also well suited for finishing the floor in a bathhouse. tile. To prevent slipping, wooden gratings are installed on it.

Schematic construction plan

Roof

Roofs for bathhouses used only in the summer can be made without an attic. They are easy to build and much cheaper. To make a roof, you first need to decide on the material. For a small structure, the roof should be covered with a lightweight material; ondulin, concrete tiles or metal tiles are most suitable. The insulation material for the ceiling is taken twice as thick as for the walls, since heat rises upward.

The roof of a mini barrel bath can be covered with tiles.

https://youtu.be/qZ7FCMx48N0

Communications

Communications in a mini bath are often arranged according to a simple principle: the soil under the floor is dug out with a slight slope to the side to drain water from the bath in the right direction and covered with clay. When arranging the floor, a small space is created between the ground and the floor. When laying boards, gaps of 0.5 to 1 cm are left between them.

This is a very old method, it is not labor-intensive and simple, but a wooden floor, even treated with an antiseptic, quickly begins to rot from exposure to water and steam. Therefore, it is better to make modern communications and build ventilation, which will help avoid rotting.

Ventilation

The ventilation system in the bathhouse delivers fresh air and ensures quick and high-quality drying. To install ventilation for a small bath, you can do without additional accessories. How to do it? You can simply install a window in the main compartment or make ventilation holes for fresh air. They are usually installed opposite the opposite walls of the steam room.

Adjustable flap for ventilation

If your budget allows, it is better to install mechanical ventilation. It filters the incoming air and helps maintain the microclimate in the bathhouse at the desired level. For this purpose, fans are installed in the room.

Finishing

The right finish baths will help not only to equip beautiful interior– this also insulates the bathhouse and increases the durability of the structure. The most common option is finishing interior walls clapboard. Experts recommend using hardwood boards. It has a low heat capacity, so such walls do not heat up, and all the heat goes into the room.

Table. Finishing requirements interior spaces mini baths

Room type	Requirements	The better to finish
Floor	Walls	Ceiling
Waiting room	No requirements	Wooden boards or tiles. You can install underfloor heating.	Any, at your discretion.	Any
Washing	Requires finishing with easily washable materials	Ceramic tile with non-slip surface and drainage.	Covering with linden clapboard, as it is resistant to rot.	Painting with moisture-resistant paints, or finishing with clapboard.
Steam room	It is necessary to treat the wood with fire retardant and antiseptic agents.	Porcelain tiles with wooden panels	Deciduous wood paneling.	Deciduous wood paneling

If you use ventilation in the walls in the bathhouse, you need to decorate it with beautiful plugs.

Arrangement

What is a bathhouse without hot water? It is heated in tanks that are built into the furnace, placed next to it or placed on a pipe. For a mini bath, a remote option is more suitable. Water from the tank can be scooped with a ladle, or a pipe with a mixer can be made.

How to make a remote hot water tank

To arrange water drainage, you need to make a recess in the floor and install drainage holes at an angle.

Furnaces

You can’t do a sauna without a stove. It is not at all necessary to lay out a large brick oven, for which it is necessary to build a foundation. Metal stoves with hot water tanks are now available for sale. A small wood-burning stove with a dual convection system heats up quickly, but does not retain heat for long and is easy to burn on.

Metal stove for mini-sauna with heater

Very comfortable electric ovens, they do not require a pipe through which the smoke comes out. But they need complex installation. To set up a steam room, a steam room in a mini sauna in a country house is usually made without windows. The main elements in it are the stove and shelves.

How to make a stove with your own hands

Lighting

Also, to equip a bathhouse, it is necessary to provide lighting for the premises. The light should be such that all objects are clearly visible. LED bulbs are not allowed in the bathhouse; hot air and steam can cause them to quickly break down. The best and safest solution for bathhouse lighting may be fiber optic cable. It is better to make sockets only in the waiting room.

Don't forget about legal documents. Before building a mini sauna, you must obtain a construction permit from the relevant authorities.

jsnip.ru

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: step-by-step instructions

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and install all communications;
• do the interior finishing and only then worry about it.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

You need to choose the right place for the bathhouse

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also standards that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window of the country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

To avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of a building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose optimal place for a bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

Regarding requirements regarding distances to neighboring plot, then they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to a lawsuit with a neighbor and the demolition or relocation of the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Layout of a small bathhouse 6×3 m

Layout option for a log bath

Planning a bathhouse for a summer residence

Bathhouse plan 6x6 m

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike a frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built at the dacha does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The material for a frame bath should be of good quality, and the bars should be dry and smooth

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
• Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or a block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

Using a rounded log, you can build a bathhouse very quickly, since everything is prepared in advance at the factory

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

Arbolite is durable and lightweight, therefore it is also often used in construction work

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then it’s quite possible to make it at home arbolite blocks quite high quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of producing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

To cover the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It is unlikely that anyone will do such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. In a wooden bathhouse you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for exterior finishing, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

Marking

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Type of foundation	Where is marking used and how is it done?
Slab foundation	Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.
Tape Shallow strip foundation	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar Columnar foundation	This type of foundation can also often be found. Mainly used for mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.
Screw Screw foundation	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it long ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out excavation work, so the site will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. Level groundwater quite low.
3. IN winter period The frosts are not very severe.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

• We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
• For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

For strip foundations, markings are performed along both the external and internal contours

• You need to remove the fertile top layer of soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
• Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
• Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

The formwork must be securely fastened. You can also immediately insert the sleeve to conduct communications later

• In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with knitting wire.

You can perform all calculations in our online calculator.

• The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
• If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them; sleeves will help with this, as was done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a basis is made for wooden house, then the foundation bolts must be fixed in the uncured concrete.
• No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Video: building a foundation for a bathhouse

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole row building material.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is built using cement-sand mortar, while for laying lightweight blocks, mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed various types finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50x100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

Making a base for a frame bath

• At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from 50x100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as thermal insulation material. They are able to provide high level sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

Construction of a concrete floor with wooden flooring

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install joists, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. Wooden panels are laid on it, which can be taken out to the barn to dry and then safely go home.

Wooden floor with insulation

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only wooden floors with insulation are acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bathhouse

Roof construction

Any bathhouse should have a reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely do high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
• For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although for interior decoration Wood is most often used; not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Wood finishing and brick bath clapboard is performed almost identically. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior decoration is performed not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. For finishing a bath with outside You can use the following materials:

• Imitation of timber.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

All you have to do is choose suitable material and finish the façade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also the opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to rapidly escape from the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as in the diagram.

Air circulation diagram in the steam room

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the upper ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close the ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

You can make the canopy and all the furniture for a country bathhouse yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Do-it-yourself metal children's swing for outdoor dachas

Do you want to get a bathhouse, but your summer cottage is so small that it does not allow you to build a steam room of standard dimensions? The best way out from the situation - a mini-bath. In terms of functionality and comfort, it is in no way inferior to traditional structures, but it takes up much less space and does not require serious expenses. In addition, you can easily make a small steam room for your dacha with your own hands - then we will tell you how to bring such an idea to life.

Design and foundation

Even a small bathhouse cannot be built without at least the simplest project, so the first stage of work is drawing up a plan diagram. Here you need to indicate the location of the main objects and their dimensions.

As a rule, there are four zones in a bathhouse:

• dressing room - enough space with an area of ​​1.5 x 2 m;
• rest room - about 2 x 2 m;
• shower room - at least 1 x 1 m;
• steam room - no more than 1.5 x 2 m.

Thus, we obtain the minimum dimensions of the bath: length – 6 m, height – 2 m, width – 2.5 m. This is quite enough to create a comfortable and practical steam room.

The second stage of work is pouring the foundation. When deciding on the type of foundation, focus on the type of soil in the area.

If the mini-bath is being built on hard and dry ground, you can limit yourself to a lightweight foundation: lay flat stones over the entire area of ​​the future bath, cover them with clay, compact them, and on top, arrange a dense layer of wooden beams and treat them with waterproofing bitumen.

If on your site soft ground, lay a strip foundation: dig a trench, fill it alternately with layers of sand and crushed stone, compact the base and secure the reinforcing mesh on top, and then fill the pit with cement mortar.

Important! The strip foundation must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. The simplest option is sheets of roofing felt.

On soil with a high sand content, a foundation of concrete blocks can be laid under a miniature bathhouse. For a lightweight design, 10 blocks of standard dimensions 20 x 20 x 40 cm are enough.

Construction of a bath frame

The best method of constructing a mini-bath is frame. It is lightweight, fast and economical. To build the frame you will need:

• bars 5 x 5 cm;
• boards 2.5 cm thick;
• waterproofing film or foil;
• thermal insulation material.

First, a frame is assembled from beams, corresponding in its dimensions and configuration to the previously developed project. The inside of the frame is covered with boards. To connect the elements together, use all kinds of anchors and various screws. Insulating materials are mounted on top of the boards: mineral wool, expanded clay or sawdust can be used as thermal insulation, and bitumen or polymer mastics. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling.

Advice. It is advisable to additionally cover the thermal and waterproofing of the ceiling with roll-up boards - a row of wooden boards.

After insulation procedures, you need to take care of the roof. As a covering, you can use corrugated sheeting, slate or metal tiles: first mount the rafter system on the frame, and then secure the roof to it with self-tapping screws. When constructing the roof, leave an opening for the chimney.

The outside of the mini-bath can be covered with a block house or clapboard - these materials will give the structure an aesthetic appearance.

Arrangement of communications

The final stage of work on the mini-bath is the arrangement of the necessary communication systems.

Water supply and drainage. Feeding can be done by gravity:

1. Prepare two 50 liter tanks, a hose and a pipe with a mixer.
2. Install the hot water tank 0.5 m lower than the cold water tank.
3. Connect the tanks together with a hose: fix one end in the lower zone of the “cold” tank, the other in the upper zone of the “hot” tank.
4. Additionally, connect the tanks with a pipe with a mixer at the end.

To ensure water drainage you will need a drainage system:

1. Dig a drainage well near the steam room.
2. Make holes in the floor of the bathhouse for drainage.
3. Bring the pipes to the holes, installing them with a slight slope.
4. Direct the pipe into the drainage well.

Water heating system. To heat water, you can use a mini-stove or heating elements. In the first case, you must first install the device, and then in its hottest place, going around the base of the chimney, install a U-shaped metal pipe: the supply end of the pipe should be placed on the body, and the outlet end 5 cm higher. In the second case, it is necessary to install heating elements under the “cold” tank and connect them to the water supply system with hoses and pipes.

Ventilation system. To ensure ventilation in a small bathhouse, it is enough to make holes with a damper in the wall opposite the entrance.

A mini-sauna is the choice of those who do not want to give up a full-fledged steam room due to the modest dimensions of their summer cottage. As you can see, building it with your own hands is not difficult: foundation, frame, communications - you will successfully cope with these tasks if you follow simple recommendations and rules.

Do-it-yourself mini-sauna: video

Almost any owner personal plot I would like to build a bathhouse there. However, its area may be small and it is not possible to erect a full-fledged structure. In such a situation, you can build a mini sauna for your dacha. It will be just as functional and comfortable as a traditional one, but its construction will require less materials and effort. Even a novice home craftsman can cope with this task.

If the area of ​​the dacha plot does not exceed 10 acres, then the best solution There will be a small-sized bathhouse. It is quite obvious that the dimensions of the building should also be ergonomic and not exceed 4x6 meters. There are several designs that meet these requirements:

• Frame - the simplest structure of this type is installed on a lightweight base and has a wear-resistant wood frame covered with high-quality material. Also to minimize negative influence temperature changes and moisture, the structure should be insulated and waterproofed.
• Monolithic - the material can be used as wood concrete, which is a mixture of sand, chemical additives, cement and filler.
• Mobile - there are several options for this design, for example, an awning tent.
• Ergonomic - the most popular here is the barrel-sauna made of wood.

Design Features

The beams are laid on top, which are then covered with waterproofing material, for example, bitumen. If the soil is soft or wet, it is better to use a strip foundation.

The prepared trench should be covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone, and then compacted well. Then you have to make a cement mortar and pour it into the pit. Roofing felt should be used as a waterproofing material.

You can build walls different ways. For a small bath the best option will become a frame structure. To create it, a home craftsman will need the following materials:

• Wooden beam 5x5 cm.
• Boards at least 2.5 cm thick.
• Polyethylene film for waterproofing.
• Thermal insulation material.

The frame is assembled from timber in accordance with the drawn up project. The inside of the structure must be covered with boards. Anchors or self-tapping screws can be used as fastening elements. Then it is necessary to provide the building with reliable thermal protection. To solve this problem, it is worth using expanded clay or sawdust. Bitumen mastic is ideal as a waterproofing material. The last stage of wall construction will be the interior finishing with boards.

What could be more pleasant than after completing work at your summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your soul and body? Of course, a luxurious bathhouse with a swimming pool in the country is an unaffordable luxury for many, so it’s worth taking a closer look at the projects of small buildings and building the one you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of money and getting maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bathhouse can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam/gas/cinder blocks, bricks, or a frame made of logs or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Material	Make/model/type/grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
	M150	250*120*65	RUB 16.90 per piece (240 pieces on a pallet)
	First grade	100*100*6000	Price per 1 m3 from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
	First grade	150*150*6000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
	First grade	40*100*6000	7500 rub. for 1 m3
	2.3 grade	40*150*6000	5500 rub. for 1 m3
	-	9*1250*2500	548
	-	12*1250*2500	802
	-	60*250*50	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

Having looked at the prices for materials, you will notice that it is more profitable to build a bathhouse from blocks or Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used or low-grade (for example, instead of edged boards you can use an unedged one, adding color to a country bathhouse). More accurate data on material consumption can be obtained after drawing up a project and estimate.

Before starting construction, it is extremely important to think through the design of the bathhouse, calculate the amount of materials, note all dimensions and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Installation of a shelf in a steam room Selecting a bath size

The main room in any, even the smallest bathhouse is the steam room. There must be two or three floors of shelves and a heater. Even if the dacha plot is small, and the bathhouse is planned to be very modest, the steam room cannot be made with an area of ​​3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (visitors should be comfortable steaming with brooms, sitting and lying on the shelves at full height). Such standards are determined by safety considerations (in a very cramped steam room it is easy to get burned on a hot stove or scald your skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is located entirely in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of ​​the room by another 1-2 meters to make it convenient to store and add firewood to the firebox. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m must be laid, which is also noted on the plan diagram of the future bathhouse.

The bathhouse will certainly provide water treatments Accordingly, you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room of the bathhouse is the dressing room or dressing room. There should be benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, and possibly a small table. It is also possible and preferable to have the heater located in the steam room, and the loading door opens into the dressing room, which allows you to save on heating.

In an economy bath you can do without:

• plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets manually;
• separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outdoors or in country house, if the bathhouse at the dacha will be used only in the warm season.

But you can’t do without electricity and sewerage, so it is advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage hole, and also extend a power line to the site where the bathhouse is being built, because steaming by candlelight is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan diagram:

• dimensions of the building and each room separately;
• ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
• furnace location;
• the sides into which the doors will open, including the firebox;
• location of windows (in the steam room the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
• location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (only products with a moisture protection level higher than IP54 are used).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bathhouse

Video - Bathhouse project. Compilation

Construction of a small frame economy bathhouse at the dacha

Let's start with the base of the bathhouse - the foundation. Since the sauna will be small and relatively light, there will be no need to fill monolithic slab or make a buried reinforced tape. For one-story bathhouse A columnar foundation made of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Marking

This stage is required for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bathhouse will be located.

Take 4 pegs and a plumb line. We drive the first stake into the soil strictly vertically, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we set aside the length of one of the walls and drive in the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

We place the third and fourth stakes in the same way. We check the equality of the marking diagonals and, if necessary, adjust the stakes and cord.

We also use a cord to mark the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the cast-off. We level the bottom of the resulting base horizontally and compact it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Let's consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20*20*40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles per piece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is approximately half a meter. The holes should be located in the corners of the house, under load-bearing walls and interior partitions.

We tamp the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand and crushed stone (each layer up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Fill the crushed stone with liquid cement laitance. We stick one steel rod strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the rod, 2 pieces at a time. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the soil. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for unevenness with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame, you can use timber 100*100 cm or 150*150 cm. There is no need to skimp on load-bearing elements. It is also advisable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 beams.

Connecting corners using the “claw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the beams of the lower trim

We cut threads on the reinforcing bars protruding from the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut off). We drill holes at the ends of the beams for these pins. We cut out the ends of the beams according to the diagram shown.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a 50x50 mm bar. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs made of 50x100 mm boards.

All that remains is to make the top trim. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we screw to the ends vertical beams long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beams

Stage 4. Gender

Let's look at an example of arranging a leak-proof floor in a bathhouse. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fastening perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor joists. We place boards 50x100 cm between the beams of the lower frame on the edge, maintaining a distance between the logs of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

Floor joists can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boards, from which the logs are made. IN rough floor you need to provide a hole for installing a drain ladder from a washing room or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Izospan or other vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we again attach logs on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene foam as insulation, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making the roof, we assemble the top floor (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor joists.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bathhouse more attractive in appearance, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into sleeping area or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, a lean-to structure will require less materials.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor joists

Table. Types of roofs, diagrams

Roof type illustration	Advantages	Description
Flat or single slope	Saving of materials, ease of assembly, ability to use the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to arrange flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and sloping rafters. The ceiling is made from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous, gap-free sheathing from edged boards or OSB is assembled, then a sheathing for insulation is installed - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be made from corrugated sheets, antiseptic-treated boards, etc.
Gable. Suitable for baths with an area >12 sq.m.	Possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight accommodation. The roof is stable and durable	The roof angle is selected from 30 to 45 degrees depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the top trim and the Mauerlat must be made of timber. Roof trusses They are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the edges (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are cut according to a template and assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The outer trusses on the gables are attached first, followed by the remaining rafters at intervals of up to one and a half meters. A sheathing of slats or boards is placed on top of the rafters, a vapor barrier is stretched, after which the roofing material, for example, corrugated sheets, is secured.

Video – Roof construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Polystyrene foam will provide the walls of the bathhouse with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use polyurethane foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam plastic according to the distance between the frame posts, insert foam plastic between them, and foam the cracks. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger in size than the existing openings to avoid gaps.
		We use 2x5 cm slats. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out using wood screws. We take the distance between the slats equal to the width of the insulation.
		We lay mineral wool slabs between the lathing slats. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats and secure it with small nails or a stapler.
		The outside of the bathhouse can be covered with OSB-3 sheets, which can then be plastered or painted. Finishing with unedged boards or siding would also be an acceptable option.
		WITH outside baths under the layer of finishing material we attach an overlapping windproof film (you can use glassine). On the inside of the walls and ceiling we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallized tape.
Internal lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in a steam room. It is permissible to sheathe the walls in the dressing room PVC panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard, then paint.
External skin		Many interesting materials are used as external cladding, such as shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden planks that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

An economy bathhouse is probably a compact room, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The hole for air flow is traditionally installed near the heater, closer to the floor, and installation work ventilation valve are produced simultaneously with insulation and wall finishing. Air flow from supply ventilation duct should fall on the heating element of the oven. It is especially important to arrange effective ventilation if the firebox door does not open into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be located closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. The air is exhausted through a ventilation pipe to the roof; the head of the pipe is covered with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above the floor level. Ventilation will occur when open window and room doors.

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Equipping the bathhouse

Having assembled a bathhouse with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, and cover it with a steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal stove; a floor structure made of 150x50 mm joists in increments of 45-50 cm and a 5 cm thick floorboard will perfectly withstand a heater.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse is laid either to finishing walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed that are strictly moisture-proof, class higher than IP 54. Installation of a separate electrical panel and protection of all cables from moisture is required.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel sauna is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, internally divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The sauna is mobile, takes up little space, is economical and economical (very little fuel is needed to warm up a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bathhouse yourself, it takes half as much money and not a lot of effort and time.

Assembly and disassembly of the bathhouse is possible due to the boards used 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tongue-and-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The structure is secured with metal hoops. Additionally, the bathhouse can be equipped with a porch, roof, and canopy.

The water in the barrel bath is drained through holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bathhouse at your dacha, you should remove the layer of soil, fill it with crushed stone, compact it, and install the bathhouse itself on a pair of stable, massive concrete blocks. The rules for installing a stove and laying electrical wiring are standard for any type of wooden bathhouse, including economy class.