Ventilation system in the kitchen in the apartment. Effective ventilation for kitchens in apartments and private houses Installation of ventilation for kitchen hoods

Everyone knows that good ventilation in the kitchen is an integral element of a healthy microclimate in an apartment or private house. To help the traditional system channel natural ventilation located under the ceiling, today it is customary to install a kitchen hood above the stove and/or a kitchen exhaust fan duct opening. However, not everyone understands that ill-designed forced exhaust can not only fail to give the desired effect, but also significantly worsen the functioning of the natural ventilation system. Let's look at how to make a hood in the kitchen of an apartment or house effective and safe.

During the cooking process, various harmful substances are released into the air. They can be divided into two groups: deadly and simply very harmful.

Comfortable ventilation in the apartment in general and in the kitchen in particular is the key to cleanliness and well-being

Dangerous "kitchen" pollution

Carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide, CO) is a toxic substance that in high concentrations leads first to poisoning and then to death. Owners of electric stoves have nothing to worry about; such equipment is not a source of CO2.

Carbon monoxide is formed during the combustion of natural or biogas, cooking in traditional wood stove. Carbon monoxide is especially dangerous because it has no odor, a person may not feel its presence and accumulation in the room. Carbon monoxide is not absorbed by carbon filters, and the hood turned on in air filtration mode is useless in the fight against CO.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is very dangerous. More people die from it in their homes than from fires, tsunamis, floods and earthquakes combined

Every time you turn on a gas burner or water heater, a small amount of unburned natural gas enters the room. A normally functioning natural ventilation system is designed for a similar level of gas emissions and copes with it quite well.

It’s a different matter if there is a leak from gas equipment or pipelines. Household gas itself has no odor, but a “smelly” fragrance is added to it - ethyl mercaptan. If you smell gas, you should immediately open the windows and call emergency services.

The installation of gas leakage and CO detectors will help to significantly increase the safety of people when using gas equipment. In case of danger, the sensors can emit a piercing signal or control a servo drive, which automatically turns off the gas supply from the main and notifies the emergency service about the problem.

The gas leak sensor is capable of promptly detecting a dangerous concentration of natural gas, propane or butane in the air and signaling it

Harmful contaminants in the kitchen

Kitchen fumes released when frying foods. It consists of volatile particles suspended in the air, mainly oils and fats. After strong heating in a frying pan, harmless food substances acquire properties harmful to humans, even carcinogenic. At best, dirt and grime settle on walls, furniture and dishes, at worst - in our lungs.

Cooking also produces water vapor. It is, of course, practically harmless compared to other types of pollution. But there is no benefit from evaporation; excess moisture does not improve the microclimate in the room.

The fumes generated during cooking are not beneficial to the body.

From the above we can conclude that effective, constantly functioning kitchen ventilation is extremely important. If for owners of electric stoves this is a matter of hygiene and cleanliness in the room, then for those who use it indoors gas stove(stove, wood-burning oven) for cooking - this is a safety issue.

Owners of gas stoves should pay close attention to the performance of the ventilation system and periodically check the presence of draft in the ventilation duct. If in the kitchen, in addition to the stove, a gas water heater or heating boiler is installed, the normal functioning of natural exhaust ventilation becomes even more important.

Kitchen ventilation systems: natural or forced

Many consumers are wondering: which kitchen hood is better, natural or forced? We answer: both are better. Natural and forced hoods, although they serve common goal, do not replace one another. A natural ventilation system is mandatory for a kitchen in an apartment or private house. Let us repeat, the presence and functionality of a natural ventilation system is of particular importance for rooms with gas appliances.

Forced exhaust ventilation For the kitchen it’s a good thing, even very good. But optional. It can be argued that natural ventilation provides greater safety, while forced ventilation provides comfort.

Ventilation in the kitchen with a hood is an element common system ventilation in an apartment or house

Let's take a closer look at the possibilities different types ventilation, their structure, advantages and disadvantages.

Natural ventilation in the kitchen

The natural ventilation system is well known to all apartment owners through the channels in the kitchen and bathroom walls leading to the roof of the house. Harmful gases and polluted air are removed through the ventilation duct, fresh air enters through the cracks in the windows or special ventilation valves in the walls or window frames. Warm air heated on the stove, due to its lower density, naturally tends to evaporate from the room upward, to the street, where the temperature is lower.

Natural ventilation in a private house in the kitchen, bathroom, and furnace removes polluted air through vertical channels to the roof. Fresh comes from the street through windows or valves in the walls

Properly designed ventilation with natural draft removes a relatively small volume of air per unit of time, but does so constantly. The ventilation duct located under the ceiling can cope with even a small leak of natural gas, which is lighter than air and rises to the ceiling.

Carbon monoxide, which is formed in relatively small quantities from the working burners of a gas stove, is also quite successfully removed by natural ventilation. Natural ventilation removes somewhat worse kitchen smells and excess moisture during moderate-intensity cooking.

It is necessary to periodically, at least once a month, check for sufficient draft in the ventilation duct. You can check this without special instruments: if a sheet of paper “sticks” to the hole, there is traction.

What is good and what is bad in such a system:

Advantages of a natural ventilation system

Ventilation with natural draft functions constantly with rare exceptions (see below, in the “cons”).

Provides general ventilation dwellings in a complex with ventilation ducts in bathrooms.

Copes with the main types of hazardous contaminants released during cooking. Provides safety in the event of a small gas leak. Natural ventilation adequately removes kitchen odors and excess moisture during moderate-intensity cooking.

Natural ventilation is “free”. In an apartment or private house built in accordance with building codes, it is available by default. There is no equipment that requires repair. No electricity required.

Quiet operation.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

In hot weather and in the off-season, when the outside air suddenly warms up after prolonged cold weather, the efficiency of the natural ventilation system drops sharply. Under unfavorable circumstances, a reverse movement of air may occur: it will begin to flow through the channel from the street into the room. For a kitchen with a gas stove installed, this can be very dangerous, especially if there is gas water heater. In hot weather and during a sudden thaw, it is recommended to ventilate the room through open windows.

Natural ventilation removes a relatively small volume of air per unit time. If the owners decide to fry a frying pan full of cracklings, the ventilation system will not cope and the persistent kitchen “aroma” will instantly spread throughout all the rooms.

Ventilation works normally only if there is a sufficient volume of air flow from outside. Modern plastic windows, adjusted “for winter,” are practically airtight when fully closed. To ensure the outflow of air into the channel, you should open the windows slightly during cooking, at least in micro ventilation mode.

The ventilation duct may be clogged with snow and debris. Selfish and technically illiterate neighbors above can block the ventilation of the lower residents by creating a niche for the refrigerator in their kitchen by removing the ventilation shaft or part of it.

It is necessary to regularly check the draft and, if necessary, clean the ventilation ducts.

How to properly create natural ventilation in the kitchen

There is ventilation for the kitchen in an apartment built in accordance with the standards; you just need to check its functionality. But how to properly make natural ventilation in a private house? Ventilation ducts should be located in “dirty” rooms: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, furnace room, utility room, bathhouse. In order to ventilate the entire house, and not just the kitchen, the air flow must come from “clean” rooms: living room, dining room, bedrooms.

Ventilation design, if everything is done in accordance with construction and hygiene standards, involves the calculation of many system parameters. When determining the cross-section of ventilation ducts, the type of installed equipment, volume of premises, building structure, climatic conditions terrain.

The calculation is difficult for a non-specialist; those who want to delve into the topic can study SP 60.13330.2012, 54.13330.2011, 62.13330.2012, 131.13330.2012, 7.13130.2011 and SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10. We will give only basic recommendations, which, in our opinion, are sufficient for installing natural ventilation in most private houses:

If there are four burners, the volume of air removed must be at least 90 m3/h. To do this, it is enough to bring to the roof a vertical exhaust duct with a cross-section of at least 0.02 m2. This corresponds to the channel round section with a diameter of 16 cm or a square size of 14x14 cm (half a brick). More is possible, less is not possible.

The entrance to the channel should be located on the wall at a distance of 15-30 cm from the ceiling or on the ceiling itself. The last option can be implemented in a private house.

In order for the natural draft to be sufficiently stable, the channel must be relatively high. Optimal traction is ensured when the channel height is at least 5 meters. Moreover, it should not be cold. In a channel located outside the building and not insulated, during the cold season the draft will be weak or not at all. In a private house, it is best to place ventilation ducts in the center of the house, closer to the ridge.

Forced exhaust ventilation

A ventilation system where polluted air is removed using a fan is called forced. Kitchen exhaust fans can be installed different ways:

Mount directly onto the existing vertical natural exhaust ventilation duct leading to the roof.

Make a hole in the outer wall where the exhaust fan will exhaust polluted air directly from the room.

Modern equipment allows you to drill holes of the required section in external walls quickly and without dust

You can hang a wall-mounted kitchen hood with a built-in fan above the stove. Route the air duct from the hood into an existing ventilation duct or into an additional hole in the wall.

Insert a fan into the window vent of a “Soviet-style” window and you will get a simple and cheap window hood.

Advantages and disadvantages of forced ventilation

When properly designed, forced draft ventilation has high performance and is potentially capable of quickly removing significant volumes of contaminated air during intensive cooking.

A kitchen hood installed directly above the stove will remove most of the dirt before it enters the room. As a result, cleaning the kitchen will become much easier.

Polluted air is removed only while the kitchen hood fan is running.

A forced system costs money: a kitchen fan or a hood with a fan, their maintenance and wasted electricity have their price.

How to properly install an exhaust fan on a natural ventilation duct

When installing the fan, the following points must be taken into account:

If your kitchen exhaust fan has a check valve that prevents air from the duct from flowing into the room when the fan is not running, the check valve must be removed. Otherwise, the operation of natural exhaust will be disrupted.

A typical cheap household fan of an axial design is not designed to remove air from a vertical duct. The performance indicated in the passport (the volume of air removed per unit of time) will be realized only if the fan removes air from a horizontal channel, and even then it is not very long.

When connected to a natural exhaust fan, it will be difficult for an inexpensive fan to overcome the resistance of friction and the air column, and its performance will noticeably drop in comparison with the declared one. The higher the channel, the greater the fall.

The axial fan is structurally simple and cheap

There are special household fans of centrifugal design designed to operate in vertical channels. The drop in productivity depending on the height of the channel is not as great for them as for axial ones. Actual performance when working in a vertical channel will be close to the declared one.

Centrifugal exhaust fans for the kitchen can be built-in or overhead. Disadvantages of centrifugal fans: high price (they are five times more expensive than axial analogues) and relatively large dimensions.

The centrifugal fan for the kitchen hood has more complex design than in the axial version. An impeller with multiple blades rotated relative to its axis is capable of creating significant air pressure, which makes it possible to overcome resistance when removing air into a high vertical channel with small losses in performance. The maximum performance of centrifugal fans is lower than that of axial fans with a motor of similar power. But in difficult working conditions their capabilities are more fully realized

So, an axial fan is cheap, but it is of little use when installed on a natural ventilation duct. Centrifugal is effective, but expensive. A suitable alternative is to install the fan in a horizontal duct leading through an outside wall. In this case, you can use a cheap axial exhaust fan without compromising its performance.

Graph of the performance of household fans with motors of similar power depending on the pressure (height of the vertical channel). On the left is an axial fan, on the right is a centrifugal fan. As can be seen from the graphs, when overcoming a pressure of 40 Pa (approximately corresponding to a channel with a height of 25 m), the performance of an axial fan will drop by 80%, and a centrifugal one by only 20%. That is, in these specific conditions (the second floor of a “nine-story building”), the “centrifugal” is four times more efficient than the “axial”

When the channel is routed through a wall, it is necessary to install check valve at the exit outside. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to drill a hole in the wall if we are talking about a city apartment. But this is not a problem in a private home.

Features of installing a kitchen hood

We won’t talk about how to install a kitchen hood; this should be described in detail in the instructions for it. Let us only remind you that it is necessary to strictly observe the specified height of its placement relative to the tabletop. We also note that using a hood in recirculation mode (without removing air) coupled with a carbon filter will clean the air only from a portion of aerosol particles, mainly fats. Gas combustion products will remain in the room. In addition, a carbon filter that costs some money gets clogged quite quickly and requires replacement.

The hood should be placed higher above a gas stove than above an electric one.

Let's name the main features that should be taken into account when choosing and connecting a kitchen hood:

A kitchen hood fan, like a household fan installed on a duct, can also have an axial or centrifugal design. Expensive hoods that use centrifugal fans remove air well through a vertical channel; the loss in performance is tolerable.

In cheap hoods they are often installed axial fans, when connected to a vertical channel they are ineffective. Full operation of a hood with an axial fan is achieved only when air is exhausted through a short horizontal duct through the outer wall.

When connecting the hood to a vertical natural ventilation duct, it is recommended to remove the check valve on it, if any. In a horizontal channel, the valve is required at the outlet to the outside. It is better to leave it on the hood.

The cross-section of the ventilation duct should not be less than the cross-section of the hood outlet. You can switch from round pipes to rectangular ones, the main thing is not to narrow the cross-section.

It doesn’t matter what shape the air ducts for connecting the hood will have, the main thing is not to reduce the cross-section of the duct

When connecting the hood to a vertical duct, it should not interfere with the normal operation of natural ventilation. By the way, many people do not take this requirement into account and, unfortunately, most hoods in our homes are installed incorrectly. We will devote the next section to the question of how to properly connect the hood to the ventilation in the kitchen.

How to properly connect a pipe from a kitchen hood to a natural ventilation duct

From the outlet of the kitchen hood, we need to stretch a pipe of the appropriate cross-section and insert it into the hole in the wall leading into the vertical channel of the natural ventilation system. In practice this is done in different ways:

Sometimes only the pipe supplying air from the hood is connected to the vertical duct, completely closing the opening from the room. It is absolutely forbidden to do this, because the operation of natural ventilation will be disrupted.

An example of how you should never connect a kitchen hood: a room with a gas stove lacks normal natural ventilation. Even if you remember to remove the check valve on the hood, the natural air suction above the stove will be weakened due to the additional resistance to air movement that has arisen. In addition, harmful gases accumulating near the ceiling will not be removed at all.

Many sellers of building materials and finishers recommend connecting the hood to the natural ventilation system through an adapter plate with two holes. One of them is designed to connect the hood, the second opens from the duct into the room. It seems that an exhaust hood was provided and natural ventilation was preserved. Actually this is not true. Firstly, when the hood is operating, almost all of the removed air is returned back into the room. It is much easier for him to exit back through the nearby hole than to go up the channel.

A frequently used connection is the air duct from the hood (1) to the natural ventilation duct (3) through an adapter with two holes. While the hood is not working, air outflows from the room through the second hole (2). But when the hood is turned on, most of the air it removes returns to the room

Secondly, the cross-section of the hole for natural exhaust decreases, unless it is specially expanded. Connection via a two-hole adapter is widely used, but we consider it incorrect due to its very low efficiency.

A widespread but ineffective design for connecting a hood to the duct of a natural ventilation system

In order for both natural and forced ventilation from the hood to function fully, two requirements must be met:

While the hood is operating, the second hole must be closed so that the exhaust air is not thrown back into the room.

The total cross-section of the grid openings for natural ventilation should not be less than the cross-section of the vertical channel.

This can be achieved by increasing the area of the natural ventilation grille and installing a check valve behind it so that it closes after turning on the hood. The valve must be installed in such a way that the supporting air flow from the hood closes it, and when the hood is turned off, the valve opens automatically.

A check valve (5) was installed on the hole in the wall in the natural ventilation channel (4), which opens with slight air movement, but closes against a noticeable air flow. When you turn on the hood, it blocks the air from escaping back into the room and you have to climb up the vertical duct to the roof

How to select and install an air check valve when connecting a hood to a duct

For our purposes, of the many types of ventilation valves, only one is suitable - without a drive, without a spring, with a damper that is not divided into segments and is shifted relative to the center of symmetry by its axis of rotation.

Of the three air valves shown, only the one on the left is suitable for our purposes.

After we have selected and purchased the valve, we will have to tinker with installing it in the desired position. In normal mode air valve should work like this: there is no air movement - the damper is closed, the air flow opens it. We need to get the opposite result: while the hood is not working, the valve must be completely open. When the hood is turned on, the air pressure from inside the duct should close it. The relatively weak natural movement of air from the room into the duct should not affect the operation of the valve.

The principle of operation of a check valve when connecting a hood to a natural ventilation duct. The illustration shows a spring-loaded valve with a two-piece flapper. Theoretically, this type of valve can be used for our purposes, but in practice it is not easy to select it so that the closing force and air pressure coincide

In the standard position, such a valve is positioned in a horizontal channel in such a way that the damper mounting axis is positioned horizontally, and the larger (and heavier) segment of the curtain “looks” down. In this case, the valve, if there is no air pressure, will be closed. We need to achieve the opposite, the valve must be open. This can be achieved in two ways:

Install the valve strictly horizontally so that the mounting axis is rotated at an angle of 5-60º to the vertical, while the larger damper sector should be at the top. The angle of inclination at which the damper will be fully open when the hood is not working will have to be selected experimentally. The force to pull the damper and close the valve must be sufficient; a low-power hood may not provide it.

Option for installing an air valve with an inclination of the damper rotation axis

Once the valve is installed and adjusted, the vent can be covered with a grille.

Position the valve axis strictly vertically, but tilt the valve itself slightly (about 5º) towards the entrance to the natural ventilation channel. The larger segment of the damper should “look” towards the channel. In this case, it will outweigh and the damper will open under its own weight, just as crookedly hung doors open by themselves. The required force to close the valve will be small; you can use a hood of any power.

The axis of rotation of the air valve is set strictly vertically, but it itself is slightly tilted towards the channel. Notice how the valve was hidden in the cabinet for the built-in hood. Air will enter the cabinet from the hole in top shelf

From the following video you will learn how to use a non-return air valve to connect a kitchen hood to an existing vertical duct, ensuring its maximum performance and without disturbing natural ventilation:

Centralized forced ventilation systems

It is worth mentioning centralized ventilation systems. Office buildings and hotel complexes often have a single ventilation system serving all areas of the building. In housing, as a rule, ventilation is combined within an apartment or private house.

Centralized forced ventilation can be exhaust, supply and exhaust and supply and exhaust with heat recovery. We are convinced that only last option.

A supply and exhaust system with heat recovery is not cheap, but it provides real benefits in the form of savings on heating costs and a favorable microclimate. Options without recovery at lower costs are ineffective in our cold climate.

In the supply and exhaust system, air is removed from “dirty” rooms and supplied to “clean” rooms through a system of ventilation ducts. Exhaust and fresh air “meet” in the recuperator, where thermal energy from the heated air being removed is transferred to the cold air coming from the street. In this case, the air flows do not mix.

The principle of operation of the ventilation unit with plate recuperator. Warm exhaust air and cold fresh air pass in opposite directions through a heat exchanger consisting of many plates made of a material with good heat transfer. Warm air, without direct contact with cold air, gives it thermal energy

A properly designed and installed ventilation system with heat recovery ensures the transfer of up to 90% of thermal energy from warm air to cold air, which can significantly reduce heating costs and supply air at a comfortable temperature to the premises.

Supply and exhaust recuperative ventilation systems are best suited for modern energy-efficient houses. In Scandinavian countries, this type of ventilation has been mandatory for buildings under construction for many years now, replacing natural exhaust hood.

Centralized device supply and exhaust system ventilation with heat recovery. The exhaust air is collected in “dirty” rooms, and fresh air heated in the heat exchanger is supplied to “clean” rooms.

It is problematic to combine centralized ventilation systems with gas kitchen stoves. For a gas stove, you will still have to provide natural ventilation from the room or install complex emergency automation. It is difficult to adequately combine two different ventilation systems (with an exhaust hood - three) in one room. An electric stove does not create such problems.

Local forced ventilation devices (room ventilators)

Local ventilation devices with heat recovery (room ventilator) also deserve mention. Their operating principle is similar to central systems: the outgoing air heats the incoming air. The ventilator provides ventilation in one separate room.

Some models resemble in shape and dimensions indoor units split air conditioners. The illustration shows a MitsubishiElectricLossnay room ventilator. The circulation fan is located on the right side of the case, the paper heat exchanger is on the left. To install it in the outer wall, you need to drill two holes with a diameter of 8 cm

Equipping a house or apartment with local forced ventilation with heat recovery is several times cheaper than installing a centralized system. And the level of comfort obtained is not much lower.

Local ventilation with recovery is very good for living rooms. A ventilator in the kitchen wouldn’t hurt either, but natural ventilation and a powerful hood vented horizontally into the wall would be more useful. When choosing local ventilation devices, preference should be given to those models in which the volume of supplied air exceeds the volume of air removed.

A popular and relatively inexpensive “breathing” room ventilator, where the removal and supply of air occurs alternately through one channel. A ceramic recuperator accumulates heat while warm air passes through it and then releases it to cold air

The procedure for changing the ventilation cycles of a “breathing” ventilator. This device is well suited for living rooms, but not for the kitchen

What type of ventilation to choose for the kitchen in a house or apartment

Those who are building a solid country house or furnishing an elite apartment, or constructing an energy-saving building using “passive house” technology, should pay attention to an expensive, but comfortable and economical system of forced supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery. In the kitchen you should install a powerful hood with outlet to the wall; it is better (and healthier) to use an electric stove. If the house has a gas boiler, the room where it is installed must be equipped with natural exhaust and independent air flow.

For those who are building their own house on a more modest scale and have a limited budget, we advise that you definitely provide vertical channels for natural ventilation in the kitchen, bathrooms, furnace room, bathhouse, utility room and hallway if clothes are dried there.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen should be supplemented by a hood above the stove with a separate air duct. It is best to route the duct for removing air from the hood not to the roof, but through the outer wall to the street. A check valve should be installed outside to prevent cold air from entering inside. A fan on the natural ventilation channel should be installed in the toilet and bathroom; in the kitchen, if there is a hood, this is not particularly necessary.

It is best to route the air duct from the hood outside through the outer wall

For an apartment, we recommend a similar option: natural ventilation (available by default), good hood above the stove, fan in the bathroom. It is advisable to vent the hood through the wall; if this does not work, use the scheme described above with a check valve. In our opinion, an additional kitchen fan is not needed.

Finally, we would like to remind you once again that properly selected and installed hood and a kitchen fan will add comfort, but will not replace the natural ventilation system. And incorrect connection of the hood may not only not improve, but also significantly worsen the performance of ventilation. We recommend that you pay special attention to the issue of room ventilation and entrust its design and installation, as well as the connection of the hood, only to competent craftsmen.

Cooking and washing dishes release heat, odors and moisture into the kitchen air. If kitchen ventilation does not work, they spread into living areas. What kind of comfort can we talk about if the aromas of borscht and cutlets are constantly in the house!

And the owners are wondering “how to make ventilation in the kitchen in the apartment?”

Subtleties of kitchen ventilation

Before making a high-quality ventilation system in the kitchen of an apartment, it is important to understand the principle of its operation. Most old houses were delivered with ventilation projections in the kitchen - mandatory components of an air exchange system like a main line and satellites. The air from the “satellite” apartments is collected into a common pipeline and discharged outside. With such a kitchen ventilation scheme, it is impossible for air to penetrate from the shaft into the apartment, or for it to flow from one apartment to another, including in the event of a fire on the lower floors. The kitchen ventilation shaft is hidden in the ledge shown in the photo above.

Features of ventilation of apartment buildings:

Air ducts from kitchens different apartments interconnected;
From 60 to 90 cubic meters of air should be removed from one apartment per hour.

The basic law of air exchange is circulation. In order for exhaust air to be drawn outside, it must be replaced by fresh air. But most owners of high-rise buildings have already replaced the old wooden windows with plastic ones, creating an airtight structure, completely blocking the path of clean air into the apartment.

The owners believe that the solution to the problem is more frequent ventilation. But this is a mistake. A healthy microclimate can only be ensured by constant and controlled air exchange.

Opening the vents in winter leads to sudden changes in temperature in the apartment and drafts. In this case, the outflow of air through the ventilation ducts (if they are not clogged) is possible only with the vents open.

The rest of the time, residents suffer from:

high humidity;
lack of oxygen;
increased levels of carbon dioxide;
mold development;
spreading the smell of cooking food throughout the apartment.

This means that for the ventilation in your kitchen to work perfectly, you need to ensure only two conditions:

fresh air flow;
blowing out exhaust air.

Now making ventilation in the kitchen with your own hands will not be difficult for you. Work to restore kitchen ventilation should begin with diagnostics.

Checking general building ventilation

In some cases, you can restore ventilation in the kitchen yourself. Every home has a general ventilation system, but often it does not work at all.

How to check the ventilation in the kitchen:

Take a piece of thin paper the size of your palm and apply it to the ventilation grill. If it holds and does not fall, it means that the ventilation in the kitchen is working and you are worrying in vain;
Light a match and bring it to the grill. If the flame reaches into the ventilation duct, then everything is in order with the kitchen ventilation. Checking ventilation in the kitchen in the photo. When the tongue is held vertically, the kitchen ventilation does not work. And if the flame leans into the kitchen, then there is reverse draft in the ventilation system. This method is never used by professionals, since flammable gases can accumulate in the ventilation ducts.

A safe method for checking ventilation in the kitchen is shown in the photo.

If the ventilation in the kitchen does not work, you can remove the grate and wash it (sometimes it is so clogged with dust and grease that it does not allow air to pass through). Then insert a long-handled brush into the ventilation hole in the kitchen and clean the air duct as far as you can reach.

It is strictly forbidden for residents to clean out the entire ventilation shaft from the kitchen and restore it themselves. This is work management company. Specialists with equipment and skills are called in. Sometimes all you have to do is remove the bird's nest from the ventilation ledge and the draft in the kitchen magically appears.

But it happens that neighbors simply dismantle their part of the ventilation ledge in the kitchen to get additional storage space. Then you will have to build ventilation in the kitchen with your own hands.

the shaft is decorated as a bookcase

A reasonable solution for decorating a ledge for kitchen ventilation in the photo.

Good furniture hides the shortcomings of the kitchen with a ledge for ventilation in the photo.

How to ensure air flow into the apartment

The supply of fresh outdoor air to the apartment for kitchen ventilation can be organized in two ways:

window supply units;
wall supply devices.

The installation of the window valve will have to be entrusted to specialists. And installation of a wall supply valve can be done by any home craftsman.

Window ventilation valve

These are simple and inexpensive devices that are now a mandatory element of kitchen ventilation systems. modern houses. The valve ensures normal air flow, blocking street noise.

Supply valves are installed on the window sash or frame. A window in the kitchen of an apartment, equipped with a ventilation supply valve, will never fog up. The neat and small valve is almost invisible, does not allow dust to pass through and does not cause air cooling.

You can not only make ventilation in the kitchen, but also equip it with such technical “bells and whistles” as hydroregulation of the inflow. There are supply valves with this function on sale. They open and begin airing precisely when soup is being cooked or pies are being baked in the kitchen, that is, the air humidity is increased. The sensor reacts to the humidity level and changes the flow area.

An additional acoustic visor can be purchased for the valve, which absorbs street noise.

Wide range supply valves allows you to choose the one that matches any window profile: white, black, oak or teak.

But in order for the supply valve to perform its function efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of air from the kitchen.

Wall supply ventilation valve

Wall supply valves are also called “Finnish vents”. This is a small device that is not difficult to install, but without it, proper ventilation in the kitchen is impossible. The wall valve allows air into the room, trapping insects, dust and drafts.

The advantage of wall valves is that they are easy to install. No need to call a specialist, spoil plastic profile windows

Other advantages of wall valves:

does not use electricity;
absorbs noise;
It has small size and nice design;
easy and quick to install.

There are wall valves with air filtration and automatic air supply based on hydroregulation. The intensity of the air supply can be adjusted manually by closing or opening the curtain.

Once every 6 – 12 months it is necessary to clean the filters by rinsing them with warm water.

Installation of a wall supply valve

Before installing a ventilation valve in an apartment, you need to select one in the kitchen appropriate place. It is better that the valve is not too conspicuous. Many people choose a place near heating radiators. The air coming from the valve will be preheated. The main criterion for choosing a location is the presence of access to the street for access to fresh air:

A hole is made in the wall slightly larger in diameter than the valve pipe. A small reserve is needed for correct location pipes;
The pipe is inserted into the ventilation hole in the kitchen. The cracks between it and the wall become foamy;
The excess piece of pipe is cut off (usually it is sold in a standard length of 1 m). The outside of the pipe should be flush with the surface of the wall, and inside it should protrude no more than 1 cm;
In pre-marked places, holes are made for fastening the housing;
Filters are inserted (if they are provided for in the design), and an external grille is installed;
A rain deflector is installed on the street side to prevent moisture from entering. If you drill a hole with a slope towards the street, a rain deflector is not needed.

Proper organization of passive supply ventilation in the kitchen is possible if air outflow is ensured.

How to ensure air flow in an apartment

If the general house ventilation system in the kitchen does not work, you can organize the outflow of air on your own using mechanical draft.

Ventilation exhaust fan

A very simple and effective remedy when the exhaust ventilation system in the kitchen does not work. The fan can be used independently or in addition to a kitchen hood. Many experts recommend installing a hood with air recirculation (a filter that purifies the air and supplies it back into the room) and a fan at the outlet of the kitchen air duct with your own hands.

Typically, axial fans are used to properly organize kitchen ventilation.

When choosing a model for kitchen ventilation in an apartment, take into account the following parameters:

power is determined by the formula: kitchen area * ceiling height * 10. Here 10 is the air exchange rate per hour;
noise emitted - from 40 to 70 decibels;
safety (working with hot air). There are models that can withstand up to 120 degrees;
presence of grease filters;
presence of humidity sensors. Turns on and off automatically.

Before you properly ventilate your kitchen using exhaust fan, you need to choose a place to install it. This could be a window, a vent in the kitchen load-bearing wall or ventilation duct.

An example of installing mechanisms for kitchen ventilation in the photo.

Kitchen hood for ventilation

Most apartment owners resort to this method. It is really effective, since the exhaust device is located directly above hob and immediately evacuates vapors and odors. From the hood, the ventilation duct is released directly into the general house ventilation. And here you must definitely follow one rule:

When leading the pipe into the shaft, do not block the ventilation hole in the wall.

There are special ventilation grilles on sale with two outlets: for natural air movement and for the exhaust pipe. This decision is the most correct.

Vapors and warm air in the room rise upward and to evacuate the steam cloud it is necessary to leave the grille open. Exhaust air from residential premises is also removed through it.

By blocking the grille, you completely disrupt the functioning of natural ventilation. Gas service employees will point out this error and order it to be corrected as soon as possible.

Household men, as you know, strive to do every little thing in the house with their own hands in order to be sure of the result. It was they who probably came up with the worldly wisdom that if you want it done well, you have to do it yourself.

Many, in an effort to improve the convenience and beauty of the interior, even get to the kitchen ventilation system.

2 Classification of types of ventilation systems in the kitchen

When developing kitchen ventilation with your own hands, first of all you should decide which type of hood is most suitable for the kitchen, so that incorrect choice its type did not lead to unwanted redevelopment of the premises or disruption of the kitchen interior. Or vice versa, if your plans include a radical redevelopment and a complete change in the interior of the room, then under new interior no less important.

On this moment There are several main types of this technique:

Dome hood– traditional and most common option. Suitable for most classic kitchens.
Hanging – flat hood, is often mounted between the hob and the wall cabinet. Does not violate the overall style of the interior.
Corner hood– suitable for kitchens with a small area, in which, due to lack of space, the stove is located in the corner.
Island hood– designed for kitchens whose area allows the hob to be placed on a kind of island in the middle of the room. This hood is installed to bring the interior of the room closer to the look of a professional kitchen.
– mounted in a cabinet, hiding its main part, as well as air ducts, from prying eyes. Great option for those who do not want to disrupt the overall style and interior design.

Having decided which type of hood is right for you, you can begin to study the intricacies of installing a ventilation system with your own hands.

2.1 Self-installation and dismantling of kitchen ventilation systems

When installing a ventilation system with your own hands, it is important to initially correctly calculate the required exhaust power. The wrong choice of performance can lead to incorrect operation of the entire system.

Calculation of hood power is the key proper operation systems

There is a standard formula for calculating hood power: this is the volume of the room multiplied by 12. The volume of the room can be simply calculated by multiplying its area by its height. And the number 12 is the recommended standard for the number of air updates in the kitchen in one hour.

2.2 Selecting the right ducts for your ventilation system

Having calculated the required power hood, you also need to select a pipe to connect the hood to the ventilation shaft, which is easy to reach by dismantling the one that hides it decorative grille. Only choosing the correct pipe diameter and length will ensure optimal performance of the ventilation system.

The most common options are and. The diameter of the air duct must be selected based on the size of the exhaust outlet of the hood. In no case should you install a pipe of smaller diameter, as this will lead to a loss of system performance and to increased level noise during its operation.

When installing a pipe connecting the hood to the ventilation shaft, it is advisable to avoid large quantity sharp turns of the air duct, as this will inevitably have a detrimental effect on power. If you cannot do without turns at all, it is advisable to make them smooth, with a large radius, or make one 90-degree bend in two stages of 45.

When the air duct is led not into the ventilation shaft, but directly to the street, the pipe outlet must be equipped with a grille, as well as a check valve. at the same time, it will serve as protection against foreign objects getting into the air duct, and the check valve will not allow air flows to create reverse draft.

The importance of proper supply ventilation

Unlike the times when most apartment buildings were designed and ventilation rates were calculated based on the throughput wooden windows, most of the current apartments are already equipped with plastic windows, which let in significantly less outside air.

This should also be taken into account when making calculations, since in this case, when the hood is operating, air will begin to flow from the remaining rooms of the apartment, as well as from the ventilation shaft located in the bathroom. Having gotten rid of one problem, we will thus create the next one. This can be avoided by installing fresh air ventilation in the outer wall. Essentially, this is a piece of pipe through which, when the atmosphere in the kitchen becomes rarefied, air from outside begins to flow in.

Such a system should also be equipped with a grille and a check valve, but now this valve no longer allows air from the kitchen to escape outside. And the grille, traditionally, protects the air duct from debris and foreign objects. It is best to place them behind a heating radiator so that the air coming from outside has time to warm up slightly.

The diameter of the pipe should be calculated based on the power of the hood, as well as the intensity of its use. In order not to complicate your task, sometimes, with low power hoods, it is enough to equip a plastic window in the kitchen with a supply valve.

To be demolished or not to demolish the ventilation duct?

Many, when remodeling a kitchen, decide to demolish it, which, in their opinion, does not bring any benefit, but only takes up space. usable area premises. Under no circumstances should you do this.

This box is not only an interior element. It is also part of the general building natural ventilation system, and its demolition will inevitably lead to disruption of the ventilation shaft. Not only will the ventilation of your apartment be disrupted, but also the smells from neighboring apartments may become your regular guests.

In addition, demolition of the box is simply prohibited, which can lead to problems if unauthorized redevelopment of this type is detected by the competent authorities. In addition to fines, you may also be required to restore the ventilation duct in the kitchen.

So, when changing the layout of the room, this opportunity should be abandoned. Therefore, since it cannot be removed, you can decorate it, harmoniously fitting it into the overall style of the interior.

2.3 Rules for the operation and prevention of the kitchen ventilation system

Correct operation is the key to system efficiency

When installing and subsequently using the ventilation system in the kitchen, important rule should become “do no harm.” Interventions to the original ventilation system when remodeling a kitchen should be such that they improve the original air exhaust system, and do not reduce its performance.

As mentioned above, when developing a ventilation system project and remodeling a room, you need to refuse to demolish the ventilation duct, as this is fraught negative consequences for you and your neighbors.

Incorrect selection of exhaust power also affects the performance of the ventilation system. A hood that is too weak will not be able to clean the air in a timely manner, and a hood that is too strong for the given volume of the room will lead to an imbalance of air flows.

Also, one of the keys to long-term operation of the system is its timely prevention.

Timely prevention is the key to longevity and a way to save money

It is well known that during the operation of any equipment it is better to carry out preventive maintenance on time than to subsequently carry out expensive repairs. Prevention of ventilation systems should be carried out regularly, and this is a fairly simple procedure that can also be done with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists.

Air ducts should be inspected at least once a year and, if necessary, cleaned of soot and dust. Also, you should clean the grille located at the end of the exhaust duct if it is vented outside. It is equally important to clean the supply ventilation grille.

Maintenance of the grease trap located on the hood should be carried out as it becomes dirty. Sometimes it is enough to wash the grille with warm soapy water, without using aggressive detergents or hard metal brushes.

Incorrect choice detergent may spoil it by damaging its coating. And the frequency of replacing the carbon filter must be calculated based on the intensity of use of the hood.

In general, the issue of installing a ventilation system yourself is quite broad, but we hope that the information presented in our article helped you figure out some of the nuances associated with this type of work. And the air ventilation system, installed by you yourself, will serve well, delighting with its functionality and complementing the interior of the kitchen.

It's no secret that the kitchen should have good ventilation so that odors do not spread throughout the house. There are many possibilities for its installation, and it is not complicated. But if you don't follow some rules, your work may be in vain.

General house ventilation - device, performance check

Stagnant air in the kitchen and constant odors indicate poor or absent ventilation. The odors themselves are harmless, but they come from substances released during the operation of kitchen equipment and cooking. Grease, soot, and steam settle on the ceiling, walls, furniture, and damage the decorative coating. Without an influx of fresh air, mold and mildew begin to form. And this is already fraught with constant repairs. Obviously, we cannot do without good ventilation.

Before installing high-quality ventilation, it is important to understand its operation. In any kitchen you can see ventilation grilles. Air from the apartments is collected in a common shaft and removed outside. The design prevents the penetration of air masses back into the room and their exchange between neighboring apartments. All air ducts are interconnected. Air is removed through them with a productivity of 60–90 m3 per hour.

However, for air to leave, it must be replaced by new air. But in a modern apartment, plastic windows often create such a sealed space that the paths for clean air flow are blocked. The owners believe that frequent ventilation is enough to ensure a fresh supply. However, this opinion is erroneous, since a normal microclimate is ensured only by constant controlled air exchange.

With plastic windows and natural ventilation, air is removed through ventilation ducts only if there is new entry through an open window or supply valves.

Ventilation installation should begin after checking the general exhaust system. It’s very easy to check: place a piece of paper on the ventilation hole. If it holds, ventilation is fine. Sometimes, to restore functionality, it is enough to remove and wash the grille, and clean the channel inside as much as possible. Residents are prohibited from cleaning the mine themselves; there is a special service.

Types of ventilation - differences between different systems

A serious question for many is which hood is better to choose - natural or forced. They are equally good, perform identical functions, although in different ways. Natural ventilation in the kitchen is mandatory, especially if the room is equipped with gas stoves. Compulsory is a desirable thing, but not mandatory. Both are part of the common house.

Natural ventilation is familiar to everyone - these are ventilation grilles and protrusions in the wall. She works according to simple principle physical laws: heated air is lighter and tends upward, goes through the grate into the shaft, and from there to the street. Instead of the removed air, fresh air enters the apartment through a valve or window. This process is constant, therefore, despite the small volume of air removed, ventilation copes with all harmful substances, formed indoors. But it is difficult to cope with the products that are released during intensive cooking with normal ventilation.

Moreover, its effectiveness depends on weather conditions. Sudden warming and the off-season cause disruptions in work. There may even be a reverse air exchange from the street to the kitchen. In extreme heat and sudden thaw, it is recommended to ventilate the apartment by opening the windows to ensure sufficient intake for normal ventilation.

A system with a fan is called forced. It is installed in different places:

on the ventilation duct of a conventional hood;
in a hole made in the wall;
in the window;
Above the stove there is a kitchen hood with a built-in fan.

Forced ventilation is more efficient and can more effectively remove contaminated air. Grease, steam and soot almost never enter the room, and repair and maintenance of such a system is easier. However, its performance is ensured while the fan blades are spinning. It is more expensive - in addition to the cost of the equipment itself, you will also have to pay for the electricity used.

Natural ventilation - principles of proper creation

The use of only built-in natural ventilation in the kitchen is now very rare, but the principles of its design remain relevant. Firstly, normal operation is only possible with constant air circulation, that is, when contaminated air is freely removed and fresh air enters. Secondly, their volumes must be equal.

The first principle is ensured by keeping the ventilation ducts clean. To perform the second in a modern apartment with plastic windows, you should additionally take care of the air flow. Unlike apartments in old buildings, where the air flow is usually sufficient, in modern apartments additional inflow is provided by installing supply valves in the wall or plastic window. For normal ventilation this is not a surplus, but a necessity.

An additional fan device in the ventilation duct opening will enhance air exchange. Installing it yourself requires taking into account some points. Inexpensive axial fans will not be able to overcome the pressure of the air column of a vertical shaft. Centrifugal fans exist for these purposes.

Owners of a private home should also consider installing a fan on the exhaust duct that goes to the roof. It will provide effective air exchange, and the noise from its operation is not audible in the room. Natural ventilation without auxiliary fans can fail: air may flow in the opposite direction or draft will decrease. And the installation of additional equipment will turn natural ventilation into the simplest supply and exhaust ventilation. The shaft ventilation duct is installed above the roof above the ridge. This will help prevent the rod from tipping over. Air ducts running in cold places are insulated.

If the ventilation duct is made horizontal, there will be no pressure difference; it can only work together with the fan.

When creating ducted home ventilation, the following mistakes are often made:

inlet openings are located below 10 cm from the ceiling, although exhaust gases stagnate higher;
the ventilation pipe is not of sufficient height - the flow stops;
several rooms are ventilated together;
in the kitchen there is only forced ventilation, although according to the rules natural ventilation is also required.

Forced exhaust - equipment options

When choosing a specific kitchen hood model, we focus on important parameters:

1. Required performance – the ability to purify air in a certain volume in an hour. It is calculated by the formula: (a×b)×h×12×1.3 – where (a×b) is the kitchen area multiplied by the height h, 12 is the amount of exchange per hour, 1.3 is the coefficient taken with a margin.
2. Dimensions. Ideally, the area of the hood air intake should be slightly larger than the stove.
3. Noise level. Indicated for a specific model. You should evaluate whether it is right for you. For example: 50 dB is the sound of a normal conversation, 80 is a working hair dryer, 110 is a motorcycle.
4. Operating mode. IN modern systems It is possible to use two modes: exhaust gases to the outside and recirculation - the air is filtered and then returned.
5. Control system. The efficiency of work does not depend on it: push-button ones work no worse than touch ones.
6. Design. Based on how harmoniously the room and the hood combine.

By choosing a recirculation device, we increase the power by 30%: it not only extracts, but also recycles air. Just remember to replace filters 2 times a year. Another advantage is that it can be installed where there is no access to the ventilation duct.

The market offers three options for hoods. The flat hanging system operates mainly on the recirculation principle. It is small, but low-power and requires constant replacement of expensive filters. By choosing this option, you can do without an air duct; it is simply attached to the furniture. However, if there is an outlet, it can work without filters, venting air outside.

The built-in hood is selected with such dimensions as to place it in the cabinet, leaving the air intake outside. Often it has an additional retractable panel. The device is discreet and fits into the interior of any room. They are not superior in power to the previous ones, but they do a better job of cleaning, throwing polluted air outside.

The fireplace hood is a powerful and modern model. This kind of thing is usually not hidden; on the contrary, thanks to its perfect design, it becomes an interior decoration. You can place it in any convenient place. The air is exhausted to the roof, but it can also be done through the wall.

Kitchen hood - correct connection

Installation of the ventilation hood is described in detail in the attached instructions. Some of its features should not be ignored, in particular, installing equipment at the correct height. The recirculation hood filter absorbs grease and steam. And unburned gas is discharged into a vertical channel centrifugal fan. Another type of fan - axial - is used in inexpensive hoods. Such fans are cheaper and work efficiently using a short horizontal outlet.

If we connect the hood to a vertical duct, we remove the check valve present in it. With a horizontal channel, we leave the valve or install it additionally if it is missing.
The cross-section of the exhaust outlet must be equal to or smaller than the ventilation duct. The shape does not matter: round and rectangular pipes can be joined.
The pipe from the unit should not interfere with the normal operation of a conventional hood.

We lead the pipe from the hood into the standard ventilation hole, not the one that serves for natural air exchange, but one punched in the wall and leading into a vertical shaft. Because if you install a pipe in a standard entrance, natural ventilation will be disrupted. The photo shows the wrong connection option. In this case, natural exchange does not occur in the room, and harmful gases accumulate near the ceiling.

You can find recommendations about connecting via an adapter. It has two holes: a pipe is connected to one, the other goes into the room. It seems to be the right idea, but in reality it is not workable, since the air returns back to the kitchen. It is easier for him to take a shortcut than to overcome resistance. In addition, the cross-section of the supply and exhaust ducts is reduced, which is unacceptable. Adapters are widely available, but they are ineffective.

In order for both ventilation systems to work together and correctly, we comply with two requirements:

during forced ventilation, the second entrance is closed so that air does not escape into the room;
the cross-section of the grille covering the ventilation entrance should not be smaller than that of the vertical duct.

We achieve this by increasing the grille area and installing a check valve. It functions like this: it closes with air from the hood, and when it is turned off, it opens automatically.

For the air duct we use a material that has the least resistance to air flow, is not susceptible to corrosion and has a sufficient cross-section. The use of corrugation, from the point of view of the resistance created, is permissible on short sections from the device to the ventilation duct. It is preferable to use smooth galvanized pipes of square or round shape.

Air valve - selection and installation

For the purpose described above, a valve that does not have a drive or spring, with a solid damper, in which the axis of rotation is offset from the center, is suitable. In the photo, a suitable valve is shown on the left.

We install it in the desired position so that it opens when the hood is not working, although the design provides for the opposite. We achieve this in one of the following ways:

1. Install the valve in a strictly horizontal position, ensuring the axis position is 50–60° relative to the vertical. We place the larger sector at the top. We empirically select the slope when the damper is fully open with the engine not running. The air flow from the operating hood should close the damper. Low-power fans may not provide the desired result.
2. After installing and adjusting the valve, close the inlet with a grill. We position the axis strictly vertically, but tilt the valve towards the entrance by 5°. The larger section faces the channel. The damper will open from its own weight and close by air flow, and little effort is required; low-power fans can handle it.

In a private house, vertical ventilation ducts. In the kitchen we supplement them with a hood that has a separate air duct. It is better to lead the shaft not over the roof, but through the wall to the street. We install a check valve outside to prevent cold air from entering. In an apartment we carry out a similar option; it is easier to carry out the work, since ventilation ducts are already available.

In any case, a hood with a fan in the kitchen cannot fully replace natural ventilation; it is only a good addition that improves the microclimate in the room used.

So that the apartment or house has fresh and fresh air, the kitchen should have very good ventilation. Natural ventilation cannot cope with the task of timely removal of odors during cooking, so a special device is hung above the stove forced ventilation- kitchen hood. How to install the hood correctly, how to secure it and connect it to the ventilation system - more on that later.

Installing a hood in the kitchen is a wise decision

How to hang a hood over the stove

With the correct size, it is equal in width to or even slightly larger than the width of the slab. To install the hood correctly, you need to place it correctly and secure it. The electric hood is located exactly above the stove. The installation height depends on the type of hob:

The minimum permissible height for hanging a hood above a gas stove is 75 cm.
Above the electric value is slightly less - 65 cm minimum.

You determine the exact height yourself - based on the height of the housewife who will cook. The bottom edge of the hood should be slightly higher than her head. Less than minimum distance It’s not worth hanging, but higher is possible. But if you need to hang equipment higher than 90 cm from the level of the stove, you need a unit with increased power so that contaminated air is removed effectively.

The hood is attached depending on the type. Built-in - to a specially ordered cabinet size. Wall hung (flat) and dome (fireplace) - to the wall. The fireplace hoods themselves can consist of two parts - a unit with a motor and filters and a dome. Both parts are attached independently of each other, but so that their outputs coincide.

It is worth mentioning separately about island hoods. They are attached to the ceiling. The kit includes a suspension system and clear instructions on what to do and how to do it.

Installation stages

The entire installation and connection process can be divided into several stages:

If there is an outlet nearby, there will be no problems with connecting to electricity. The other steps are also not very complicated, but let’s look at them in more detail.

Attaching a wall or dome model to a wall

Although these two models differ in appearance, they are attached to the wall. On back wall the housings have four holes - two on the left, two on the right. Many manufacturers provide their products with a mounting template on which the locations of the fasteners are marked. All you need to do is lean the template against the wall and move the marks. If there is no template, measure the distance between the holes and transfer it to the wall. If you have an assistant, you can ask them to hold it at the selected height and make the marks yourself.

Then everything is simple: use a drill to make holes of the appropriate size, insert plastic plugs for the dowels, then hang the hood on the dowel-nails. Naturally, we check that the installed equipment is horizontal.

This method is good if the wall is smooth and nothing interferes. Often there is a gas pipe running next to the stove, which makes it impossible to hang the hood close to the wall. In this case, you can nail it to the wall wooden blocks, and attach the hood to the bars. This is a simple option, but not a very good one - the bars become covered with soot and are difficult to wash.

The second option to install the hood behind the pipes is to use a hairpin screw (the second name is a plumbing pin). They have a thread for screwing into the wall, a smooth part, which makes it possible to carry the hood some distance from the wall, and a smaller thread with two nuts, which will be used to secure the body. There are these studs in different sizes, choose which one you need, but all the nuts are made for a bit or an octagonal wrench.

This option for mounting the hood is universal, simple to implement, and reliable. It is also more convenient to clean - the metal is usually stainless, and it is easy to clean it from deposits.

Installing a built-in hood in a cabinet

The built-in hood is almost completely hidden in the cabinet made for it. It is attached in exactly the same way as described above - with screws, only they are screwed into the walls. Only in advance it is necessary to make holes for the air duct in the shelves located above. This is done after the hood has been purchased, since the location of the air outlet depends on the company and model.

If the cabinet is hanging, it is better to remove it. In the removed cabinet, install the hood in place, mark the location of the air outlet on the bottom shelf, and cut it out. To do this, it is easier to use a jigsaw and a file with fine teeth. The laminate file leaves almost no chips. If desired, you can seal the cut area with a plastic C-shaped furniture profile. They are rigid and flexible. The flexible one is easy to use - it bends at any angle, the hard ones will have to be heated before installation construction hairdryer. These profiles are “set” with glue; most often “liquid nails” are used. After installation in place, remove any remaining glue (with a damp, clean cloth) and secure it to the shelf with masking tape. We cut off the excess profile with a fine-tooth file and clean the cut. sandpaper with fine grain.

We make holes in the other shelves in the same way. By the way, they may no longer be round, but rectangular - it depends on the cross-section of the air duct you have chosen.

After this, all the shelves are installed in place, the cabinet is hung and secured. A built-in hood is attached to it with screws through holes in the body. Next is the process of connecting the air duct.

How to connect the hood to electricity

Since the power consumption of kitchen hoods rarely exceeds 1 kW, they can be connected to regular sockets. It is desirable that they be grounded. This requirement must be met if you want the warranty to be valid.

If the wiring in the apartment is old, you can install the grounding or grounding wire yourself. Just don’t attach it to water supply or heating pipes. This threatens the possibility of electrical injury or even death for you, members of your group or neighbors.

To reach the ground wire, on the shield, find a busbar with wires attached to it or a pipe to which it is welded/screwed stranded wire. You can also connect your own stranded wire to these devices (without discarding those that are already there). For it to work properly, the cross-section must be 2.5 mm, the conductor must be stranded copper, and a non-flammable sheath is desirable.

Some hoods come with a plug at the end. There are no problems with connecting such models - just plug into the outlet and that’s it. But there are models in which the cord ends with wires. This is not because of the greed of the manufacturer, but so that the consumer himself can decide how best to connect the equipment. If you want, you can connect a plug. This option is not suitable - take the terminal block and connect through it. Another option is Wago terminal blocks. You need to take three of them - according to the number of wires. In one terminal block, identical wires from the hood and from the panel are connected - phase to phase (the colors may be different here), zero (blue or dark blue) to zero, ground (yellow-green) to ground.

Air duct for kitchen hood

One of the stages of installing a hood is the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature is removed from the kitchen, so there are no special requirements for air ducts and any can be used. Three types are usually used:

There is also a difference between plastic and corrugated air duct - price. Polymer ones are more expensive. Despite this, if you have the opportunity to install a hood using PVC, install them. With an equal cross-section, they provide more efficient air removal and are also less noisy.

The cross-section of the pipes for the air duct is determined by the size of the outlet opening on the hood. In case of rectangular pipes use an adapter.

Air duct sizes for hoods

Round ducts are available in three sizes: 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm. This is the diameter of plastic pipes and corrugated hoses. There are more sections of flat air ducts and they are presented in the table.

How to choose a size? In case of round pipes their diameter must match the diameter of the hood outlet. It is very undesirable to install an adapter at the outlet and then use an air duct of a smaller diameter - this will reduce the speed of air purification. And even if the hood is very powerful, it will not cope with air purification.

With the choice of the cross-section of a rectangular air duct - its cross-sectional area should not be less area cross-section of the outlet pipe. And the connection occurs through a suitable adapter.

How to attach corrugation to the hood and ventilation

If you decide to install a hood and use aluminum corrugation for the air duct, you will need to think about how to attach it to the body and to the ventilation. To do this, you will need clamps of the appropriate size. They can be metal or plastic.

To connect the hood to the ventilation system you will also need a special ventilation grille. It has a hole in the upper part for connecting the air duct pipe. There are holes in the lower part to remove air from the kitchen using natural circulation when the hood is not working.

A grate with a protrusion is suitable for attaching the corrugation - around the hole there is a side of several centimeters, onto which the corrugation is placed, after which it is secured using a clamp of a suitable size.

The corrugated air duct is attached to the hood using the same principle. It has a protrusion on which the corrugation is put. The connection is tightened using a clamp.

How to attach an air duct to walls

For plastic air ducts there are special fastenings in the form of latches. They are first mounted on the wall using dowels. The installation step depends on the curvature of the route, but on average, 1 fastening per 50-60 cm is sufficient. Pipes are inserted into these latches during installation with little effort.

If the air duct needs to be fixed to the ceiling, you can use the same fastenings. But if you need to maintain a certain distance from the ceiling, this type of installation will not work. In such cases, take perforated plasterboard hangers, attach them to the ceiling, and then use small PVC screws to attach an exhaust duct to them.

Corrugated air ducts are attached to the walls using clamps or large plastic ties. If necessary, they are also mounted to the ceiling using perforated aluminum hangers.

Where and how to remove the air duct

Most often, the air duct from the kitchen hood is connected to a ventilation hole through which natural ventilation occurs (due to draft). This is incorrect, since in this case most of the grille is closed by the air duct, and air exchange through the remaining accessible holes will be clearly insufficient.

Correctly connect the air duct to a separate ventilation duct. In this case, the same grille as in the photo above is installed on the hole.

If there is no separate ventilation duct, but there is one nearby outer wall, you can take the pipe outside by placing a grate outside. These are two ways to have normal ventilation and ensure normal operation of the hood.

How to take it outside

To install the hood and lead the air duct into the wall, you need to make a hole in it. And this is the only difficulty. Next, an air duct is inserted into this hole and sealed with mortar. From the outside, the hole is covered with a grill to prevent debris from getting in and birds and small animals from settling in.

To prevent outside air from blowing into the room, install a check valve (in the figure above it is indicated by an oblique line). By the way, it is advisable to install it when connecting the air duct to the ventilation system - so that odors from the pipes do not enter the room.

The check or anti-return air valve is a lightweight plastic or metal plate. It is movably attached in two places to the pipe - at the top and bottom, the petals are supported by a weak spring. While the hood is not working, the valve blocks access to air from outside. When the hood is turned on, the air flow bends the plate forward, pressing the spring. As soon as the hood is turned off, the plate returns to its place using springs. If you install a hood without this valve, it may be too cold in the kitchen in winter - outside air will enter the room without problems.

So that the hood does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen

Using a tee and a check valve, by the way, you can install the hood so that it does not interfere with natural ventilation in the kitchen. You will need a special ventilation grille for connecting hoods, a check valve and a tee. A tee is attached to the ventilation grille, an air duct from the hood is connected to its lower entrance, and a check valve is installed on the free outlet, only so that the petals are locked when air passes from the pipe (pictured below).

How does such a system work? When the hood is turned off, the petals of the check valve are bent, air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the grille and the open outlet of the tee. When the hood is turned on, the air flow from it unfolds the valve plate, and the air flows into the ventilation system. When the hood is turned off, the springs again open air access through the tee.

Externally, such a system does not look very attractive and will have to be disguised in some way. But this is the only way to connect the hood to the only existing ventilation outlet and not reduce air exchange.