Plastering on foam plastic: preparing the mixture, gluing the mesh, applying the plaster layer, primer and decor. Facade plaster using foam plastic or penoplex How to plaster polystyrene foam outside

How to plaster polystyrene foam outside the house? Very often, this material is used to insulate a house inside and outside. Strictly maintained dimensions, characteristics and positive properties allow all work to be completed quite quickly and efficiently. The article will tell you how to plaster polystyrene foam.

Polystyrene foam is an environmentally friendly material that provides effective thermal insulation and reliable fire safety. Polystyrene foam is a polymer material with a structure close to natural compounds, in which microscopic cells are filled with air or gas.

This structure gives excellent thermal insulation properties polystyrene foam, which deservedly makes it popular all over the world. Using the material as insulation in the construction of houses is one of the most inexpensive ways to ensure good thermal insulation.

The advantages of foam plastic over other materials are:

Environmentally friendly and clean, which is regulated by the hygienic conclusions of manufacturers and state standards.
Low thermal conductivity. The material is 98% air, and this is the best natural heat insulator.
Fire safety. Can stably withstand temperature changes over a wide range, without changing the physical and chemical properties. It refers to plastics that, like wood, when burned, release water and carbon dioxide. But styrofoam good quality does not support combustion: the fire retardant included in its composition gives the foam the property of self-extinguishing.
Good sound insulation, which is ensured by low dynamic stiffness.
Resistance to microorganisms. Polystyrene foam does not emit water-soluble substances and does not decompose when it gets into the ground or groundwater, on Natural resources has no negative effect.

Advice: Insulation made from this material used in construction should be protected from interaction chemical compounds: alcohol, turpentine, paint thinner, acetone, kerosene, gasoline, various resins that can completely dissolve the foam and harm its cellular structure.

Resistance to bacteria and mold.
Light weight. The minimum density of foam plastic has virtually no effect on the foundation of the building and its supporting structures.
Small price.
Easy to process and easy to install.
Durability. Its service life is practically unlimited.

When insulating a building with foam plastic:

The cost of heating the house during operation is reduced.
Useful space is saved.
Costs during loading and unloading operations are reduced.
Reduced costs for using complex construction mechanisms and tools for materials processing.
Time frames are being reduced construction work, while the building turns out to be warm and comfortable.

The disadvantages of polystyrene foam include:

Low strength. Any targeted impact on the surface or other mechanical impact leaves a dent, and sometimes the slab is completely destroyed.
The material requires protection from the influence of certain external factors:

ultraviolet rays;
humidity.

From an aesthetic point of view, leaving a wall that is lined with slabs alone is unacceptable. In this case, exterior finishing of the house is necessary.

How can you plaster polystyrene foam?

Budget and relatively in a simple way Do-it-yourself finishing of polystyrene foam is its plastering.

Tip: The foam plaster mixture can be applied to slabs that are attached by gluing. When laying the sheathing in cells, a supporting frame is mounted, and the finishing surface covering is done with clapboard or other panels.

For finishing foam plastic you can use:

Universal facade plaster, resistant to temperature changes and moisture. The use of reinforcing mesh allows for maximum adhesion of the coating to the surface of the insulation.

Tip: To increase grip finishing material and foam plastic should be grouted with a plastic float with an emery cloth attached to it.

Mineral mixtures (see Mineral façade plaster: features of the material). Such compositions are made on the basis of Portland cements white, lime hydrate and fillers. The solutions are very durable, adhere well to many types of surfaces, and protect the interior of the room from fungi and other harmful microorganisms.

Such compositions make it possible to create an excellent texture and make the walls attractive. Their advantages:

low cost;
long service life;
good vapor permeability, which allows the composition to be used on surfaces with low diffusion resistance;
resistance to mold, fungi and other harmful microorganisms;
absence of influence on materials by sudden temperature changes;
the coating is of natural origin, does not pose a danger to humans and environment;
this type plaster compositions goes well with foam insulation.

Acrylic compounds (see Acrylic plaster for facades: how to use).

These solutions last longer than the period of operation of the foam, but their disadvantage is that they do not allow steam to pass through, which does not allow for reliable interior spaces comfortable microclimate, without the use of special equipment. The material is supplied in finished form, as a water-dispersion mixture.

Silicone solutions. Manufactured on the basis liquid glass. High price The material limits its use, but it is indispensable for buildings located in industrial and other areas with high pollution.

Before plastering the foam, check that there are no gaps between the slabs. How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam outside? The video shows the entire process in detail.

Advice: It should be borne in mind that the composition cannot be laid in a thick layer, which requires making the surface fairly even.

How to prepare a solution for plaster

To prepare plaster, when using it on foam plastic, it is necessary to strictly follow the operating instructions located on the packaging of the composition.

Advice: When working with compositions for plastering foam plastic, they should be brought to the consistency of a thick “jelly”.

For the same building you should not use products manufactured by by different manufacturers. Similar materials have different components in their composition, which “behave” differently. They also differ in application.

Compositions can be:

Universal.
With limited scope.

It is better to give preference to the first type of coating.

How to lay the first layer of plaster

Before plastering on foam plastic, you will need to purchase a special mesh made of alkali-resistant material, usually PVC. This is explained by the presence of cement in all plaster compositions, which is aggressive to many materials.

The order of laying the mesh:

The strips are cut to the required length. To do this, measure the height of the wall and add a small margin.
Hold the strip at the top with one hand, and apply the solution along the upper edge of the material with a spatula. Thus, the mesh is “welded” to the foam.
The first layer is applied up to 5 millimeters thick.
The solution is applied from top to bottom, while the mesh is captured across the entire width.
When installing strips of mesh, the adjacent one is laid with an “overlap” of one centimeter, so you need to leave a “tape” free of plaster on the right side.
Using this technology, the entire wall is covered with a mesh.

Advice: First of all, the tapes should be laid on corners, slopes, door and window openings, then on the rest of the area.

How to grind the primary layer and finish the foam

To provide the applied solution with a smooth, monolithic base, grinding of the primary layer of plaster is done. To do this, with a trowel, periodically moistened with water in a bucket, without pressing too hard on the foam, the entire surface is leveled and smoothed. At the same time, it’s not scary if sections of the mesh appear through the solution here and there.

The photo shows the insulation diagram outer wall polystyrene foam and its finishing.

The procedure for finishing the insulation is as follows:

After applying the first layer and grouting it, a second layer is applied, which finally levels the entire wall and hides, if any, visible areas of reinforcement.
If the second layer does not give the desired result, the coating is applied a third time.

When plastering foam plastic, you should keep in mind that this is its “rough” finishing, after which decorative plaster will be performed. Therefore, surface evenness is one of the conditions for obtaining high-quality installation surfaces.

How and with what they plaster polystyrene foam, you can see all the stages of the work in the video in this article.

The facades of many houses are insulated using polystyrene foam. However, in order for such insulation to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to plaster the facade. Polystyrene foam does not withstand various external influences such as wind, sun rays, moisture, etc. And plaster can significantly extend the service life of foam plastic and maintain the original thermal insulation characteristics of the facade for as long as possible.

Scheme of a facade insulated with foam plastic, finished with plaster.

Preparing tools and mixture for plastering

The facade will be plastered using the following tools and materials:

For high-quality plastering you will need special tools.

Containers for preparing the working mixture.
Construction mixer.
Painting construction mesh.
Corner.
Sandpaper.
Gypsum plaster mixture.
Scissors.
Primers.
Spatula.
Paint rollers.

A facade with foam insulation can be plastered using various mixtures for finishing polystyrene materials. Some manufacturers offer one universal composition for plastering polystyrene foam, others offer a composition of two mixtures, one of which will be used for gluing the painting mesh to the surface of the foam plastic, and the second part will be used for simultaneously gluing the mesh to the surface to be treated and further creating a protective layer.

The mixture is prepared according to the instructions, which can be found on the back of the package.

It is best to find and buy a universal mixture. With its help, you can glue a painting mesh to the surface to be treated and process the foam with the highest quality possible. This type of plaster is very economical. In order to glue the mesh to the facade, you will have to spend about 4 kg of plaster per 1 m2 of surface. Leveling the walls will take about 6 kg of plaster per 1 m2 of area.

When preparing the plaster, you must strictly follow the instructions given on the packaging, because... They may vary for different mixtures. After the plaster is ready, you can use it to begin gluing the mesh to the facade. It is most convenient to glue the painting mesh to the facade if the plaster has the consistency of sour cream.

Step-by-step instructions for gluing plaster mesh to the facade

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the foam, it is necessary to use a special mesh.

In order for the penoplex plaster to adhere well, it is necessary to use a special painting mesh. A mesh with a density of about 160 g/m2 is best suited. The greater the mesh density for conducting facade works, the more even the resulting plaster on polystyrene foam will be. However, it will be very difficult to paste over the corners of the building with a mesh that is too dense.

First, the corners are glued, including the slopes of door and window openings. Take a plaster painting mesh and cut a piece of it 30 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the slope, or, if you are gluing the corner of a house, about 1 m. Bend the resulting strip in the middle so that even after removing the force, the “edge” does not disappear. Take a spatula and apply the pre-prepared mixture to the corners and slopes to be treated. Apply it in a layer of 2-3 mm. Apply the mesh, press with a spatula and smooth out thoroughly. Move from the corner down and to the side. Glue all the corners, being sure to leave the unglued parts for future gluing of the joints. After this, you can start gluing the mesh on the plane.

To do this, cut the mesh into pieces. Pieces of 1x1 m will be enough. Make them bigger size does not make sense, because the mixture dries very quickly, and you may simply not have time to glue it. Apply the universal mixture to the surface using a spatula. Make strips 100 cm long and about 90 cm wide. 5 cm from the edges will later be used for gluing the joints. Apply this mixture in a layer of about 3 mm.

Laying the mesh fastening on the wall.

Place the mesh against the wall and smooth it using the same spatula. Gently smooth from the middle and top to bottom. Do everything so that the mesh is almost pressed into the applied mixture. While smoothing, you can additionally apply a small amount of mixture to the spatula to cover the entire mesh. Finish with this vertical strip, move to the side and glue the next strip. Pieces of mesh are glued overlapping. The joints of the resulting strips must be carefully and neatly taped. The joints at the corners are also overlapped.

If you do not leave un-glued sections of the mesh, but simply glue the seams overlapping, the resulting joints will be very rough and noticeable even after applying a fine finish. The glued mesh must be rubbed down. To do this, use a plastic grater with sandpaper. Grouting is done using the dried mixture. In warm weather, the universal mixture dries quite quickly - usually a few hours is enough. If it’s cloudy and cool outside, it’s better to give it a day. Rub the mixture with some force, making circular movements in a counterclockwise direction. If some of the undried mixture gets into the sanding cloth during work, it will need to be replaced.

Applying and grouting the leveling layer

At the next stage of work it will be necessary to apply a leveling layer. It is applied using the universal mixture you are already familiar with, with which you created the protective layer.

The leveling layer is applied in the following order:

The plaster is applied to the wall using a wide spatula using even movements.

You take a wide spatula (at least 35 cm) and, using a smaller spatula, apply the leveling mixture on it.
After this, apply the leveling mixture to the surface using even movements. On average, the thickness of this layer is about 3 mm. The final value depends on how well the mesh was grouted.
Apply the leveling layer in small sections, trying to make the joints as far away from the joints of the painting mesh as possible.

The leveling layer is rubbed in the same way as the plaster mesh. Be sure to take into account the fact that you can start grouting the leveling layer at least a day later and at a maximum 4 days after its application. If you leave the leveling layer for a longer period of time, it will “over-set”, and you will have to make very significant efforts during grouting.

The leveling layer is rubbed until the most even surface is obtained.

It will be applied to it finishing, for example, textured or decorative plaster. The order of their application in the case of a facade finished with foam plastic does not differ significantly. Choose the option you like best and get to work.

Procedure for applying primer and plaster

Before applying the final finish, the surface must be primed. A composition with quartz grains is best suited for plaster. Use a short-nap roller to apply the primer. Do everything carefully, leaving no drips if possible. After treating the entire surface, you can begin finishing the facade using foam plastic.

When applying plaster to a previously leveled and primed base, you must adhere to a certain sequence. First, take a putty knife and apply a base coat of plaster. Make sure that the layer has a uniform thickness over the entire area of the surface being treated. When choosing the thickness of the layer, it is necessary to focus on the size of the mineral grains present in the mixture. The more grain, the thicker the layer should be.

Apply a base coat to a certain area of the surface, and then take a large-pore sponge, float or spatula and begin creating a decorative texture. Treat the entire surface in this order and leave it to dry. Wait until the plaster is completely dry. If you wish, you can paint it. It is best to use paints specially designed for facade work. The surface can also be coated with a layer of simple colorless protective varnish.

This is the order in which styrofoam plastering is performed. If you are planning or have already insulated the facade of your house using polystyrene foam boards, now you know how to plaster them yourself and will be able to complete this work, without involving third-party craftsmen and saving money. Good luck!

Insulating the walls of a house with polystyrene foam was, is and will be one of the most popular types thermal insulation. The popularity of polystyrene foam is due to its low price - it can even be insulated big house outside is quite a feasible task for family budget. The task can be considered completed if the foam has been plastered and puttyed, either by craftsmen or with your own hands.

Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene foam - mistakes and misconceptions

Foam plastic, like others polymer materials, has a very long decomposition period. Scientists talk about successful testing of slabs of this material under conditions simulating 80 cycles of temperature changes. How can this be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the fragility of polystyrene foam. This statement is only partially true - polystyrene foam becomes short-lived when exposed to direct ultraviolet radiation (sun rays) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to insulate the facade with foam plastic, you should take care to protect the material from these two factors.

As they say experienced craftsmen, if you plaster the foam and carry out timely renovation work On average, the service life of such a facade can be extended to 20 years. And the foam plastic for insulation and plaster must be special - grades PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25. The second misconception, popular among builders, is that polystyrene foam is flammable. And again, the statement only partially corresponds to the truth - of course, polystyrene foam is flammable, but its ignition temperature is almost 2 times higher than that of the same wood, and during combustion it releases two to three times less thermal energy.

That is, in the event of a possible fire, polystyrene foam, as this material is more correctly called, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore, it is more than suitable for inside and outside. If the technology is followed in the production of insulation boards, as well as their installation, they become significantly safer than other popular materials involved in repairs and construction.

Another common myth concerns the lack of benefit from façade insulation and the lack of significant heat gain. Indeed, plastering walls over previously installed polystyrene foam will not make the house warmer by itself, but heating it will be much easier - insulated walls retain heat inside the house 30% better than without insulation. Thanks to saving electricity and fuel resources, wall insulation pays for itself in an average of 5 years, after which you will pay significantly less for heating for at least 15 years.

Protective layer for foam plastic – puttying and plastering

Most popular way protection of expanded polystyrene from environmental influences - plastering. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer that can resist mechanical damage and completely neutralize the ingress of ultraviolet radiation.

The entire process of plastering polystyrene foam is as follows:

special plaster mixtures are prepared ( ordinary plaster does not fit here);
a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of the polystyrene foam;
the first layer of plaster is applied;
the walls are leveled;
final grouting;
priming the surface under decorative plaster;
finishing with decorative plaster (bark beetle, mosaic).

It would seem that it is quite easy to figure out how to plaster and rub foam plastic, and this operation can be done either with your own hands or by hiring a construction team at a reasonable price. In both cases, do not make basic mistakes - buy only specialized mixtures for polystyrene foam, do not skimp on. If you are determined to do all the work yourself, watch the training videos.

Today, the most trusted manufacturers of plaster for foam plastic and similar materials are the companies Ecomix and Ceresit. It is very important that the putty used for foam plastic different time, was from only one manufacturer. On average per one square meter in the process of grouting the mesh, about 4 kg of mixture is used, and up to 6 kg for the main layer of plaster. You don’t have to count the final grouting layer - just take mixtures with a margin of 8–10%.

Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene foam with our own hands

Working with polystyrene foam is a pleasure - even slabs of expanded polystyrene, maintained in strictly defined parameters, are installed in a matter of hours. But plastering the walls will take longer. We start everything by mixing the mixture - we do this strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer. True, in practice, the mixture for gluing the reinforcing mesh should be made somewhat thinner - in this case it penetrates better into all the cells.

And for the grout layer, the consistency should be liquid and fluid, which is not written in the instructions.

Plaster mesh is a mandatory attribute when plastering polystyrene foam. You can find out what it looks like from the video. It is thanks to this element that the composition will adhere to polystyrene foam. Since the mixture contains cement, the mesh should be selected from alkali-resistant ones. The denser the mesh you choose, the easier it will be to plaster with your own hands. Glue the plaster mesh using a universal mixture, starting from the corners and slopes.

For ease of work, cut strips of the required length (we focus on the height of the wall, leave a small margin) and a width of 30–60 cm. Gluing begins from top to bottom, from the top edge of the mesh - holding it with one hand, with the other, using a spatula, apply the solution in a solid line along the entire edge . Layer thickness is about 5 mm. As soon as the mixture sets, we begin to secure the strip along the entire width, moving from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that it is correct to install the adjacent strip with an overlap of at least a centimeter, so you should always leave a space free of plaster on the previous strip, as shown in the video. This is exactly how we move gradually along the entire perimeter of the wall and secure the reinforcing mesh. On level places without corners or slopes, you can cut the material into pieces up to 1 meter wide, no more. You simply won’t have time to glue more, since the gluing mixture dries very quickly.

The next stage is grouting the mesh with your own hands. To do this you will need a plastic grater with an emery cloth. The procedure is carried out only on a dried layer of plaster into which the mesh has been glued. In hot summer weather, it is enough to wait a few hours, but in damp, cloudy weather - a day. Rubbing should be done in a circular motion, applying little effort. From time to time, the sanding cloth should be knocked out of dust and replaced with a new one.

Be sure to wear safety glasses and a respirator. After completing this stage, we proceed to applying the main leveling layer. He will need the same plaster mixture and two spatulas with wide and narrow blades. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture onto a wider one and spread it over the surface with wide movements. Layer thickness – 3–5 mm. To get started, watch videos with examples of work and practice small area. According to the technology, the joints of the sections of the leveling layer should be located as far as possible from the joints of the mesh.

Then all that remains is to wait until the leveling plaster dries and rub it in according to the same principles as the plaster mesh. It is important not to delay this - you have up to 4 days. Then, every day the material will become stronger, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on grouting.

It is imperative to apply a finishing decorative finish to the prepared (primed) surface of the walls, for example, apply textured plaster with your own hands under a fur coat or using the “bark beetle” technology. Many people do not consider it necessary to plaster the walls again, but thanks to this layer, the insulation of the facade will last much longer.

To reliably apply plaster to polystyrene foam, the following is necessary:
Attach a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to the smooth surface of polystyrene foam;
Ensure reliable adhesion of the leveling layer of plaster with expanded polystyrene (or rather, with a fiberglass mesh applied to extruded polystyrene foam);
Remove the negative influence of the sun on work;

Fastening facade fiberglass mesh to the smooth surface of extruded polystyrene foam.

To reliably connect the reinforcing fiberglass mesh and expanded polystyrene on the Internet, you can find a recommendation - to treat the surface of the insulation with sandpaper. This will have some effect. If further finishing is limited structural plaster, this processing will be sufficient. For the facing layer of ceramic tiles this may not be enough.

Therefore, to ensure a more reliable adhesion on the surface of the extruded polystyrene, we scratched grooves with a nail. The pitch of the stripes is 10 centimeters. The stripes are not solid, but dot-dotted. The nail tears out pieces of insulation up to one centimeter deep.

And then everything is as usual. Applying glue to the surface (in our case, carefully filling the resulting depressions in polystyrene foam). Fastening the façade fiberglass mesh by rubbing it into the glue. Applying an additional layer of glue to the fiberglass. Naturally, glue must be used specifically designed for this work.

For the first layer, intended to fill the recesses, it is better to use the most expensive one available. This is the most vulnerable area fastening tiles to the base.

Ensure reliable adhesion of the leveling plaster to the façade fiberglass mesh.

Any adhesive for ceramic tiles will provide reliable adhesion to the fiberglass mesh. After all, the weak link still remains extruded polystyrene foam, and the glue manufacturer will not play a role here.

It would be possible to level the surface with just glue (this is usually done with a small layer, 2-3mm). But with a layer of 5-7 mm, the amount of glue required leads to a significant increase in cost. It is better to replace it with cheaper plaster for exterior use “Ceresit CT29″ or ready-made dry cement-sand mixture. For large layers, you can use regular cement-sand mortar M100, made from sifted sand. But the solution will not adhere to the smooth surface of the façade fiberglass mesh. Therefore, such a trick was used here.

Glue grooves were applied to the wall surface with a notched trowel. The teeth of the spatula used were 4-5 mm. The glue used was the one that was brought for gluing ceramic tiles. The next day, when the glue grooves had dried, “Ceresit CT29” plaster was applied to the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam.

No primer was used during all of this work. Extruded polystyrene foam practically does not absorb water and therefore water is not drawn out of adhesives. This makes it possible for the mixtures to gain the required level of strength.

The use of adhesives at elevated air temperatures.

The instructions for almost all adhesive compositions contain a ban on work at outdoor temperatures above 30 degrees. Not everyone reads instructions. But in vain. With such heat, there is intense evaporation of moisture from the prepared mixture. That is, some part of the cement will not have enough water to react, and it will not turn into cement stone. If cement was added to obtain a strength equivalent to grade 100, then in hot weather this grade may turn out to be M70 or M50.

To solve this problem, all work was carried out in the direction of the sun. The working day began on the northern part of the building. Then they moved to the east. After 16-00 work was carried out on the southern part. On this wall, after applying the plaster, the surface was covered with film. At first glance, the black film should heat up and do little to reduce the temperature. The film, indeed, heated up, but the wind was blowing under the film, and the wall was cold. The film created an additional effect. It increased the humidity of the environment in which the hardening process took place, which helps to increase the strength of the solution.

On the western wall the work was left on autumn period. The dark surface of the polystyrene foam remained hot even when the sun set. If the work was carried out on a non-insulated wall surface, the influence of temperature would be less. The wall would distribute solar heat throughout the entire massif. And dark foam heats up instantly, at the first rays of the sun.

more on the topic:
Screed made of monolithic polystyrene foam concrete
Plaster application technology
Plastering corners, grooves and slopes

How to plaster polystyrene foam with your own hands

Plastering on polystyrene foam: preparing the mixture, gluing the mesh, applying a plaster layer, primer and decor

External insulation of house walls with polystyrene foam is gaining increasing popularity. However, this material requires additional protection from external influences, so styrofoam plastering is practically no alternative method.

This material is dedicated to the features and nuances of the technology for plastering foam plastic insulation of a house.

So, you have decided to insulate your house with polystyrene foam or its close relative - penoplex. How to protect the insulation layer from mechanical influences, moisture, temperature and ultraviolet radiation? There is only one way out - plastering.

Plastering on penoplex or polystyrene foam includes the following steps.

Preparation of mixtures.
Preparing and gluing the mesh to the walls.
Grout.
Alignment of walls.
Grouting the leveling layer.
Primer.
Do-it-yourself finishing with decorative plaster.

Preparing the mixtures

To apply plaster to polystyrene foam and related materials, various mixtures are used to work with polystyrene materials. The leading manufacturers are Ceresit, Ecomix, Stolit.

Some manufacturers' product line for working with polystyrene boards contains one universal mass, others have two, one for gluing foam to the base, the second for creating a protective layer.

For gluing mesh onto walls and performing further work It is the universal mass that is used.

Consumption is about 4 kg/m2 for gluing mesh and up to 6 kg/m2 for leveling walls with plaster.

As practice shows, for gluing the mesh it is most convenient to use a mixture with a consistency slightly thinner than the manufacturer recommends.

For the leveling layer, the mass should be quite liquid and practically flow off the spatula.

Now that we have figured out how to prepare a solution for plaster. You can start gluing the mesh on which the foam plaster will be fixed.

Sequence of work

Gluing the mesh

Before plastering the foam, care must be taken to ensure that the leveling compound can adhere to the surface being treated.

In order for the mass to hold securely on the foam, the use of a mesh is mandatory. The best option is a “mesh for external facade work”, with a density of 140-160 g/m2. As a rule, the denser it is, the smoother the layer is, but at the same time, it is more difficult to paste over corners with a dense mesh.

Note! Since cement-based masses are often used for plastering polystyrene foam, the mesh must be alkali-resistant.

Pasting walls with mesh begins with gluing the corners (including the slopes of window and door openings):

To glue it to a corner, cut a strip 30 cm wide and a length equal to the size of the slope.
We bend the strip exactly in the middle so that when the force is removed there is still an “edge” on it.
Using a spatula, apply the universal compound to the slopes and corners to be plastered. Thickness – 2-3 mm.
We apply the mesh to the surface to be pasted, press it with a spatula and smooth it out with movements from the corner to the side and down.

After the corners are glued (there should be parts that are not glued - they will be used for gluing the joints), we proceed to gluing the planes:

We cut the mesh from the roll into 1 meter pieces.
Using a 350 mm spatula, apply the universal compound to the wall in a strip 1 m long, 90 cm wide (5 cm from each edge will be used to glue the mesh joints) and a layer of about 3 mm.
We apply the mesh and, using the same spatula, smooth it out from the center and from top to bottom.
The mesh should be almost completely pressed into the adhesive mixture. When smoothing, you can add a little mixture to the spatula to completely cover the structure.
After one vertical strip is completely glued, we move to the side and glue the next one, laying it overlapping so that the joints of the strips are securely glued.

Pasting plaster mesh on foam plastic

We overlap the joints in the places where the corners are glued.

Note! If you do not leave any areas of the mesh that are not glued, the resulting joint looks quite rough and can stand out even through the fine finish.

Grouting mesh

The glued (more precisely, glued into the universal mixture) mesh must be rubbed down. Grouting is done using a plastic float with an emery cloth.

We grout using the dried mixture. In the warm season, the mixture dries within a few hours; in cooler, cloudy weather, it is better to wait at least a day.

Rub the mixture with a little force, using circular movements counterclockwise. If undried material gets into the sanding cloth, it will have to be replaced.

Applying leveling compound

Next, plaster on polystyrene foam (or similar insulation materials) involves applying a leveling layer. To apply it, the same “universal mixture for arranging a protective layer” is used.

Using a small spatula, apply the leveling mixture onto a wide spatula (350 mm or more).
Using a spatula, apply the mixture evenly onto the wall. The application thickness depends on the quality of the mesh grout and averages about 3 mm.
We apply it in sections, trying to place the joints of the sections away from the joints of the mesh.

Grouting the leveling layer

Grouting is done using the same technology as grouting over a mesh.

Grouting the leveling layer

Note! It should be grouted no earlier than 24 hours later, but no later than 4 days after application. Otherwise, you will have to make considerable efforts to carry out the procedure.

We rub until we get the most even surface possible. It is on this that we will apply the finishing touch, for example, decorative or textured plaster with our own hands.

Applying primer

In order for the finish to adhere reliably, it is necessary to prime the base. For decorative facade plaster, a primer with quartz grains is suitable (we recommend Ceresit CT 16). If we do not plan to plaster, but limit ourselves to painting the facade, we can use a primer without quartz grains, which leaves a smooth surface (we recommend Ceresit CT 17, price - from 556 rubles).

Apply the primer using a short-haired roller, being careful not to leave drips.

After the surface is primed, we can begin finishing our insulated building!

Applying decorative plaster

We apply decorative plaster with our own hands on a leveled and primed base using the following technology.

Application of decorative plaster

Using a spatula, apply a base coat of finish. The thickness of the application must be uniform over the entire area of the wall being plastered and depends on the size of the mineral grains included in the plaster mixture. The larger the grain, the thicker the plaster.
After this, on a small area using a sponge with large pores, a spatula or a grater, we begin to form a decorative texture.
When the entire area is covered and the texture is applied, leave the surface to dry. Completely dried decorative finishing can be painted (best of all - with special paints for facade work) or coated with a colorless protective agent.

This is the technology used to apply plaster on polystyrene foam. We hope the information was useful to you.

Summing up

Now you know how to plaster walls. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photos and instructions in which you will find the necessary information on this issue.

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How to plaster foam outside?

Polystyrene foam is a popular insulation material that has whole line advantages. But at the same time, it is not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and aggressive chemicals, and is quite fragile. To extend the service life of polystyrene foam, it must somehow be protected from the effects of destructive factors. Despite the low strength of the material, it can be plastered over polystyrene foam. Plaster will not only protect the material, but also give the surface a pleasant appearance.

How to plaster polystyrene foam?

Many people wonder whether it is possible to plaster polystyrene foam cement mortar? No, you shouldn't do this.

Which penoplex plaster is better? Review of mixtures and plastering technologies

There are special plaster mixtures for polystyrene foam and related polystyrene materials. Although they contain cement, they also contain special additives that ensure a strong connection to the surface of the foam.

To ensure that the plaster adheres well to the surface of the foam plastic, a plaster mesh is used. The denser the mesh is used, the smoother the plastered surface will be, but also the more difficult it is to paste over corners and bends.

The mixture is diluted in accordance with the instructions and proportions indicated on the package. You shouldn’t violate the manufacturers’ recommendations, but if anything, it’s better to make the mixture too liquid rather than too thick, because this way the mesh will stick better to the surface of the foam.

It is important to use plaster from the same manufacturer throughout the entire work. Due to possible differences in composition, reactions between products different brands may be unpredictable.

Specifically, what is the best way to plaster over polystyrene foam? The most popular products from the following manufacturers:

Procedure for plastering work

Plastering begins from the corners.

In order for the mesh to fit well on them and not come off, you must first bend it so that a trace of the bend remains, or simply purchase ready-made corners. The mixture is applied a few mm thick, a mesh is inserted into it and secured with pressing and smoothing movements in the direction from the corners to the center of the surface.

You should not immediately stick too wide strips of mesh (more than a meter) onto the wall surface itself, because due to the speed of setting of the solution, they will not be able to be fixed well. The mesh is pressed into the mixture and secured by moving the spatula from the center to the edges. A gap of several centimeters should be left at the joints for gluing and connecting individual sheets of mesh to each other.

After the first layer on which the mesh was glued has dried and sanded with a plastic float and sandpaper, a leveling layer also 2-3 mm thick is applied. The work is carried out with two spatulas. Using a narrow spatula, spread the mixture onto a wide one, spread it onto the wall surface and level it. It is advisable that the joints of individual plastered areas do not coincide with the joints of the mesh fabrics, this way the plaster will hold more firmly.

Before you apply the leveling layer, you should allow the plaster to dry. In dry and warm weather, a few hours may be enough for this; in cool and damp weather, at least a day will be required. But you shouldn’t delay sanding too much, otherwise the plaster will gain a lot of strength, and you’ll have to put in a lot of effort. After sanding, you can prime the walls and apply the finishing coat. It is important to understand that the better you plaster the foam, the longer it will last and the fewer problems it will cause during operation.

Plastering polystyrene foam with your own hands - protecting the insulation from external factors

Required tools and materials

Insulating the walls of a house with foam plastic was, is and will be one of the most popular types of thermal insulation. The popularity of polystyrene foam is due to its low price - insulating even a large house from the outside is a completely feasible task for the family budget. The task can be considered completed if the foam has been plastered and puttyed, either by craftsmen or with your own hands.

Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene foam - mistakes and misconceptions
Protective layer for foam plastic – puttying and plastering
Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene foam with our own hands

1 Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene foam - mistakes and misconceptions

Polystyrene foam, like other polymeric materials, has a very long decomposition period. Scientists talk about successful testing of slabs of this material under conditions simulating 80 cycles of temperature changes. How can this be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the fragility of polystyrene foam. This statement is only partially true - polystyrene foam becomes short-lived when exposed to direct ultraviolet radiation (sun rays) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to insulate the facade with foam plastic, you should take care to protect the material from these two factors.

According to experienced craftsmen, if you plaster the foam and carry out repair work in a timely manner, on average the service life of such a facade can be extended to 20 years. And the foam plastic for insulation and plaster must be special - grades PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25. The second misconception, popular among builders, is that polystyrene foam is flammable. And again, the statement only partially corresponds to the truth - of course, polystyrene foam is flammable, but its ignition temperature is almost 2 times higher than that of the same wood, and during combustion it releases two to three times less thermal energy.

That is, in the event of a possible fire, polystyrene foam, as this material is more correctly called, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore, it is more than suitable for insulating rooms from the inside and outside. If the technology is followed in the production of insulation boards, as well as their installation, they become significantly safer than other popular materials involved in repairs and construction.

2 Protective layer for foam plastic - puttying and plastering

The most popular way to protect polystyrene foam from environmental influences is plastering. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer that can resist mechanical damage and completely neutralize the ingress of ultraviolet radiation.

The entire process of plastering polystyrene foam is as follows:

special plaster mixtures are prepared (ordinary plaster is not suitable here);
a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of the polystyrene foam;
the first layer of plaster is applied;
the walls are leveled;
final grouting;
priming the surface for decorative plaster;
finishing with decorative plaster (bark beetle, mosaic).

In both cases, do not make basic mistakes - buy only specialized mixtures for polystyrene foam, do not skimp on foam fasteners. If you are determined to do all the work yourself, watch the tutorials.

Primer for foam plastic

On average, about 4 kg of mixture is consumed per square meter in the process of grouting the mesh, and up to 6 kg for the main layer of plaster. You don’t have to count the final grouting layer - just take mixtures with a margin of 8–10%.

3 Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene foam with our own hands

And for the grout layer, the consistency should be liquid and fluid, which is not written in the instructions.

Plaster mesh is a mandatory attribute when plastering polystyrene foam. You can find out what it looks like from. It is thanks to this element that the composition will adhere to polystyrene foam. Since the mixture contains cement, the mesh should be selected from alkali-resistant ones. The denser the mesh you choose, the easier it will be to plaster with your own hands. Glue the plaster mesh using a universal mixture, starting from the corners and slopes.

Keep in mind that it is correct to install the adjacent strip with an overlap of at least a centimeter, so you should always leave a space free of plaster on the previous strip, as shown in. This is exactly how we move gradually along the entire perimeter of the wall and secure the reinforcing mesh. On level places without corners or slopes, you can cut the material into pieces up to 1 meter wide, no more. You simply won’t have time to glue more, since the gluing mixture dries very quickly.

Be sure to wear safety glasses and a respirator. After completing this stage, we proceed to applying the main leveling layer. It will require the same plaster mixture and two spatulas with wide and narrow blades. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture onto a wider one and spread it over the surface with wide movements. Layer thickness – 3–5 mm. To get started, look at examples of work and practice on a small area. According to the technology, the joints of the sections of the leveling layer should be located as far as possible from the joints of the mesh.

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It is important not to delay this - you have up to 4 days. Then, every day the material will become stronger, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on grouting.

Every year, thermal insulation of facades with foam plastic becomes the most popular method of insulating houses and buildings. But for all its advantages, polystyrene foam must be protected from external influences of climatic and biological factors. It copes with this task well using polystyrene foam, provided that all work is performed correctly.

If you have chosen polystyrene foam or penoplex as the façade insulation, there will be a need for high-quality plastering of the thermal insulation surface. Below we consider in detail how to properly plaster a building, protecting its thermal insulation from the harmful effects of natural and atmospheric phenomena.

Plastering on polystyrene foam consists of several stages, which are performed in a certain sequence:

Preparation plaster mortar.
Preparation and pasting of the facade with plaster mesh.
Rubbing along the façade mesh.
Uniform treatment of the facade with plaster.
Rubbing an even layer of plaster.
Primer work.
The final decorative.

Preparation of plaster mortar

For processing expanded polystyrene, penoplex and other similar building materials for insulation, they are used different types plaster solutions.

Due to high-quality products that have proven themselves in the market, the most common manufacturers of such solutions are Stolit, Ceresit and Ecomix. The price of the above brands is affordable and has a good correlation with their quality.

It is important to know: when plastering a certain building, you need to use a solution or mixture from only one manufacturer.

Not all manufacturers of plaster mortars produce one mixture for treating thermal insulation of facades. There are manufacturers who make a separate solution for gluing plaster mesh to the wall and a separate mixture for treating facade insulation.

When purchasing a separate mixture for gluing the mesh, make sure that the plaster used for processing the thermal insulation of the facade belongs to the same manufacturer.

To glue a plaster mesh, it takes about 3.5 kg/m2 of solution, and the mixture consumption for uniform treatment of the entire facade is 5.5 kg/m2. When creating a solution, be sure to follow the required proportions, which are displayed by the manufacturer on the packaging itself.

Experts recommend mixing a solution that is slightly thinner than the manufacturer's recommended mixture. This will not affect the quality of the plaster itself and will create more comfortable conditions when applying it during finishing works. In particular, the layer intended for uniform treatment of the façade must be liquefied. The degree of liquefaction can be determined based on the level of drainage of the mixture from the spatula.

After preparing the required consistency of the plaster, proceed to installation. façade mesh, to which the polystyrene foam plaster will be attached.

Preparation and pasting of the facade with plaster mesh

When preparing plaster on polystyrene foam, it is imperative to adapt it to self-retention on the covering of the wall that you are going to process.

Without it, it is impossible to reliably stick to the foam. For this reason, it is necessary to choose a suitable material for wall treatment. Best choice There will be a purchase of mesh for external facade work, the density of which must be at least 150 g/m2. The most compacted mesh will facilitate uniform processing of the façade covering, but it is worth considering the difficulty that arises when gluing decorative elements and corners. These areas can be treated with a low-density net.

It is important to know: due to the fact that styrofoam plaster is most often made on a cement base, it is necessary to select an alkali-resistant mixture.

Gluing the façade mesh should start from corners, arches, window and door slopes, as well as other difficult-to-work areas:

To glue the facade mesh in the corner areas, it is necessary to cut a belt from the mesh 30 cm wide and 1 m long (the length for a slope or arch is determined by measuring the required area yourself).
The belt must be bent directly in the center so that when unbent, the fold line is clearly visible.
The plaster solution is applied to the corner areas using a spatula; its density should be at least 2 mm.
Attach the mesh to the covering the desired area facade and, pressing with a spatula, smooth it out with gentle movements, starting from the corner to the bottom side.

After successfully gluing all difficult-to-process areas, you can begin gluing the facade mesh to the flat areas of the facade:

The length of the segments for uniform sections of the facade should be no more than 1 m, since you will not be able to glue a longer piece due to the quick-drying properties of the plaster mortar. If you are sure that you can do it on time, you can cut off larger pieces, but it is recommended not to take risks, otherwise there is a chance of damaging the building materials.

The plaster mixture is applied to the treated area of the wall in a layer of at least 3 mm, guided by the size of the prepared mesh section.

When attaching the mesh, press it with a spatula and smooth it, starting from the center in all other directions. Make sure that all sections of the mesh are well pressed into the applied plaster solution.

Having successfully glued one piece, you need to continue installing the mesh in the same row, moving to the right or left. Pasting of the façade mesh is done with an overlap. Edge joints, as well as slopes, arches and corners are glued in the same way.

Important to know: pay attention Special attention joints, corners and decorative elements of the facade, otherwise they will look sloppy even after the final exterior finishing.

Rubbing along the façade mesh

The glued mesh must be rubbed evenly without fail. This is done using a plastic grater with sandpaper.

Grinding is carried out exclusively on the dried solution. This usually takes a little time; for example, in summer it will dry in just 4-5 hours. In cooler seasons, it is recommended to wait about 20-22 hours before grouting.

Rubbing should be carried out using gentle movements in a circle, preferably counterclockwise. Be sure to change sandpaper, if undried solution gets into it.

Uniform treatment of the facade

After the above steps, facade plaster on foam plastic involves applying a leveling layer of the mixture. Uniform processing of the wall is carried out as follows:

On a spatula big size A leveling plaster solution is applied, which must be used to evenly cover the facade wall. The thickness of the layer is selected based on the quality of the walls. In the best case, it is at least 2 mm.

Leveling is carried out by applying a layer of mortar in sections. In this case, it must be taken into account that the joints of the mesh should not fall on the joints of the leveled sections.

Rubbing an even layer of plaster

Rubbing a uniform layer is carried out using the same method as troweling over a façade mesh.

It is important to know: rubbing of a uniform layer must be done no earlier than 20-22 hours and no later than 4 days after processing the facade. If grouting is late, you will have to put in much more effort when processing the wall.

A uniform layer is rubbed down until an extremely even coating of the facade wall is obtained, since the decorative plaster will be applied precisely to this surface.

Primer work

To fine finishing well maintained on a uniform layer, it needs to be primed. Quartz primer (CT-16) is perfect for decorative plaster. In the case of regular façade painting, it is necessary to use a quartz-free primer to maintain an even finish (CT-17). When choosing a primer, you should pay attention to the Ceresit brand, as its price is about 450 rubles. and it correlates perfectly with the quality of the product.

The primer must be applied using a short-haired roller to avoid drips.
Having completed the priming work, you can begin final finishing facade of the building.

Final decorative finishing of the facade with plaster

The final finishing of the facade should be carried out by applying the main layer of plaster on a spatula. Its thickness is determined based on the size of the mineral grains in the solution: the finer the grains, the thinner the layer. Make sure that the layer is applied evenly over the surface area of the façade wall.

The base layer must be leveled using a large-pored sponge or grater, while simultaneously forming the desired decorative elements facade. Before painting the facade or applying a protective solution, it is necessary to allow the plaster to dry.

This guide will help you treat polystyrene foam insulation with stucco yourself. Omission of at least one of the stages does not guarantee successful processing and durability of the building facade.