How to assemble a sliding wardrobe. How to assemble a cabinet correctly. Door system installation

Today, you can easily use professional furniture assembly services. But some people want to do everything themselves, and the point here is not even the cost, but curiosity and interest. We'll tell you how to assemble a cabinet yourself in our article.

How to assemble a cabinet with your own hands

Young families often have to solve problems related to the furnishings of their “nest”. Sometimes the situation is further complicated by the lack of funds to purchase new furniture. Besides, small size living space forces you to think in advance about the location of all interior elements.

You can cope with this problem if you assemble a closet with your own hands - this way you will get a place to store existing things that will suit you in size.

If you prepare for the process (buy tools and materials in advance), you can easily assemble the cabinet yourself. You don't need professional skills for this.

It is easier to assemble a cabinet if you divide the entire production activity into several stages. The work consists of a set of sequential activities:

Circuit design.

Preparing the necessary tools.

Buying parts and giving them the desired shape and size.

Assembly of the structure.

Before assembling the cabinet, you should prepare tools that may be useful during the process:

electric drill - for tightening screws and drilling holes;

hammer - you will use it to hammer in dowels;

building level;

a simple pencil - for taking measurements and making marks;

glue – useful for gluing pile;

a hacksaw for wood, which will allow you to fit all the parts to required sizes;

a lot of screws and dowels.

Initially, it is necessary to check the quality of every detail of the future design. The surfaces must be free of blisters, cracks, scratches and other defects. Please take precautions when transporting cabinet parts. All components should be securely fastened to the car body.

Before assembling the cabinet, you need to draw up a sketch and decide on the location of the structure. Here you need to focus on personal preferences and the availability of free space. In most cases, cabinets are located in a closet, in the corner of a room, or near a wall.

The standard height to length ratio is 1.62. That is, if the ceiling height is 3 m, the optimal cabinet length is 185 cm (300/1.62 = 185.1). Cabinet parts can have a depth of 40, 50 or 60 cm. Of course, you can assemble a cabinet of completely different depths, but it is worth considering that too great importance This parameter makes the use of furniture not very convenient.

Having chosen a suitable location, you can begin to draw up a sketch, which is detailed diagram with a picture of all the elements of the future cabinet. It can be prepared manually on paper or using computer programs Excel and Basis. The advantage of the latest program is the ability to calculate the size and quantity of all parts that will need to be cut.

Example of filling a cabinet

Chipboard is most often used to make shelves. The shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners.

Before starting the assembly process, you need to prepare necessary materials. You can order cutting and edge processing of parts at the place where you will purchase them.

In order to assemble a structure measuring 1.5x2.4 m, you will need:

three horizontal parts 1.5×0.6 m;

two vertical parts 2×0.6 m (cabinet walls);

one partition 1.35×0.6 m;

three partitions for shelves measuring 0.325 × 0.6 m, which will be installed vertically;

one sheet for a shelf with dimensions 1.5 × 0.3 m;

three partitions for a shelf 0.3×0.4 m.

The main task at this stage is to calculate the number of parts and their sizes without errors. If the sketch is not drawn up accurately, there is a risk of buying the wrong amount of materials that will be needed.

How to assemble a cabinet: sequence of actions

First you need to install a 1.5x0.6 m board on the floor and attach two side elements to it. If there is a plinth on the floor, it is better to remove it so that the side parts do not need to be adjusted to fit it. It is better to use dowels to fasten parts. They allow you to securely attach elements to the cabinet wall.

To attach the remaining elements to the bottom board, screws and metal corners are useful. In some cases, shelves are installed using plastic corners, but fasteners made of such material are less reliable.

The next step is to assemble the shelves inside the cabinet: two boards are attached to the vertical part and the three transverse compartments, which are placed in a horizontal position.
The compartments are secured in a similar way - using self-tapping screws and metal corners. If it is possible to get close to the walls, which are located on the side, then the fastening elements can be Euroscrews.
The upper outer shelves are attached. Three vertical partitions of the structure are attached to a horizontal board with dimensions of 1.5 × 3 m. The frequency of fastening the partitions is 0.5 m.

If you want to assemble a floor-to-ceiling cabinet yourself, you may have difficulty securing the top cover.

You need to leave some space at the top to insert the hexagon. Alternative option consists of attaching the cabinet lid to metal corners from the inside.

This way you can get two hanger compartments in which you can place outerwear, dresses and shirts. On one side of the cabinet there will be a shelf, and the other side will be divided into three small compartments.

How to assemble a wardrobe

Is it possible to assemble a wardrobe yourself? To do this it is necessary to determine correct order actions. The first step is to check the integrity of the package - whether all cabinet parts have been delivered. You should have at your disposal several boxes of chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware.

Please note that hardware and other additional parts may be packaged with chipboard. When accepting cabinet parts, carefully check the contents of the boxes and inventory, since there are often cases when suppliers “forget” to include some items.

In order to assemble a wardrobe, you will need a set of the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver PH2;

hex wrench with edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);

tape measures (or rulers);

level (optional);

drills and drill bits with a diameter of 5 mm.

A screwdriver with bits (hexagonal and Phillips) will help to significantly speed up the work, but, of course, you can assemble the cabinet without it.

It is quite difficult to assemble a cabinet alone, so before starting work we recommend finding an assistant so that you have someone to ask to hold the part or hand over the tool. Before you start assembling the cabinet, you should remove all the parts from the packaging material and arrange the boards according to size. This way you can immediately determine the purpose of each element.

Each panel has characteristic holes, so it is almost impossible to assemble the parts incorrectly.

There are three chipboard connection schemes:

using confirmed screws;

using eccentric couplers (minifixes);

with the addition of wooden dowels (chops) to one of the above methods.

The connections differ from each other by characteristic holes that can be found on the plane and at the ends of the boards. The use of confirmations requires the presence of two types of holes:

In one part - through, in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm.

In the second part there is a blind part, with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.

The same number of holes is made for eccentric couplers:

In one part there is a blind part, in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm, into which the minifix rod is screwed.

The second part has a hole at the end (8 mm), connected to a recess in the plane with a diameter of 15 mm for the clamping cylinder.

For dowels, blind holes are made both at the end and in the plane with the same diameter of 8–10 mm.

Pay attention to the set of hardware from your cabinet; by their presence, you can determine the type of connections and the sequence of assembly of parts.

Remember also that the front side (end) of the boards is edge-glued, while the back side (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. This will help you assemble the cabinet correctly, including the correct placement of shelves, lintels and sides.

Determining the purpose of the panels

Carry out a thorough inspection of all parts so as not to miss blind holes and additional markings. Initially, you need to install the bottom - the bottom of the wardrobe.

There are two types of bottom: with and without adjustable legs. If legs are attached to the bottom, then the bottom can be easily determined by the presence of blind or through holes with a diameter of about 10 mm into which they are inserted. Sometimes the legs are not inserted into the holes, but are installed using screws (in this case, the bottom of the cabinet will have corresponding markings).

The cabinet bottom without legs has a different design. It is based on side panels and special strips (plinths) 50–100 mm wide, which are located along the perimeter of the surface and prevent it from collapsing under the weight of the cabinet elements. A design feature of this bottom is additional holes for dowels for attaching the base.

Having set aside the bottom of the cabinet, you can also immediately remove the roof (top panel). Its size will be similar to the parameters of the bottom, only with fewer holes.

Finding the side frames is also usually not difficult - these are the longest parts with holes for attaching shelves on one side. The internal vertical jumpers are shorter than the side walls and have characteristic holes at the ends, which are intended for confirmations or dowels.

In order to separate the shelves from the rest of the cabinet, you just need to select boards of the same (small) size, which are glued only on one (front) side. Sliding wardrobes are almost never equipped with overhead shelves, so they must have at least two holes at the ends on both sides.

The design of a wardrobe often includes two additional large shelves. One is installed below as a stand for shoes, and the other at the top is used as a mezzanine. The dimensions of both elements are identical.

If the closet has drawers, then their components are quite easy to find - these are boards with the smallest dimensions (the width of the boards is about 120 mm).

Rules for installing various hardware

Those who want to assemble a cabinet with their own hands often have a question: do they need to glue the wooden dowels? It should be understood that if you glue them, you won’t be able to disassemble the cabinet if necessary (during moving or renovation) without damaging the fasteners. The use of glue does not make the structure more rigid or durable, so gluing is advisable in cases where the connection is made only with dowels, without the use of screws or minifixes.

How to install dowels correctly? They are hammered exclusively into holes on the plane and in no case into the end of the chipboard, since the board may crack when connected. It is recommended to insert dowels by hand or using rubber mallet. It is also possible to use a metal hammer, but you need to work very carefully so as not to pierce the panel through the dowel.

The minifix rods are screwed in with a Phillips screwdriver. A screwdriver is not very suitable for these purposes, since you can easily turn it in the hole and fixing the connections will be unreliable. Once the panels are connected and the rods are in the holes, the eccentric discs can be inserted. This makes it easier to assemble the cabinet, because if the disk is not centered correctly in advance, the minifix rod will not go all the way into the hole.

When tightening a furniture screw (confirm), you should not use much force to prevent it from turning in the hole. But if this does happen, try sealing the hole with three regular matches.

How to assemble a wardrobe: procedure

It is easier to assemble the cabinet if you place it face down on the floor. At the beginning of the process, be sure to measure the diagonal of the side panel (not the length, but the diagonal). This parameter should be 5 cm less than the ceiling height so that the assembled cabinet can then be raised. Otherwise, you can assemble the cabinet while standing, but you will need help holding the side panels in place.

If you want to assemble a wardrobe yourself, it is better to start from the bottom. Install the legs (or plinths) on the bottom of the cabinet and insert all the fixed hardware into the holes: dowels and minifix rods. After this, you need to insert all the hardware into one of the sides and connect it to the bottom. If the wardrobe is wide with vertical jumpers, you should install the closest panel to the already standing side part. Then you can install the shelves between them in order from bottom to top. Next, in a similar way, assemble the next jumper and secure it with shelves.

Before installing the second side piece, look at how the top should fit. If the “roof” is installed on top of the entire structure, then you first need to secure the side frame. And if the top panel must be located between the side panels, before the last of them is attached, then you must first fix the top.

Nailing the back wall

Once you have assembled the frame, you can begin to secure the fiberboard on the back side. Most often, the back panel consists of several parts, so to avoid errors, you should determine the location of each of them before installation. Long-term storage Chipboard leads to slight deformation (especially the side elements). An arc (“belly”) appears on the panel, which can be eliminated if the fiberboard is nailed correctly.

That is, having attached the board to the cabinet, you first need to find and nail the flat side. Then, straightening out the curvature, you should nail the second side. Fiberboard is cut on sawing machines and has a rectangular shape, which is close to ideal. The described method allows you to level the cabinet, correcting the diagonal curvature. You can check the quality of the work performed using a tape measure ( tolerance is 5 mm per 1 m).

Some cabinets include radius additions on the sides of the structure. These are independent elements that can be easily assembled and attached to the cabinet using special furniture ties. The same applies to the decorative figured roof (“canopy”) into which the lighting is mounted.

Installing additional items

These include box blocks, a pipe for trempels, hooks, a pantograph, and lighting. These parts are standard commercial items, each of which has its own instructions with detailed description sizes and installation work.

The exception is a pipe for hangers. The width is fixed exactly in the middle of the cabinet, and the height can be any. Most often, the pipe is installed below 50–100 mm from the top shelf.

Door system installation

If you managed to assemble the wardrobe yourself and install everything necessary elements, then you can begin installing its doors.

We propose to consider the most popular system, which is used most often due to its low cost. The set consists of two guides: high (which is installed on top) and low (with slots for wheels) - mounted on the bottom panel of the cabinet. In most cases, there are no holes in the guides, so before assembling the cabinet doors, you need to prepare a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. The recesses in the bottom strip should be drilled between the grooves in one row: two at the edges and the rest between them at intervals of 300 mm. Holes are drilled in the top bar in a similar way, only in two rows (separately for each groove). Fastening is carried out using furniture screws 12–16 mm long with a countersunk or flat head.

Important. Before installing the bottom strip, do not forget to insert special door stoppers into the bottom slots - each has a separate parking stop, which is set after adjusting it.

Installation of guides

The top guide is installed flush with the end of the roof. First, you should secure one side of the plank, then align it with the end, and then install the second. Next you need to screw in the remaining intermediate screws. If you assemble the doors in the described sequence, then the skewing of the strip can be eliminated.

Important. The lower guide is not fixed flush, but with a distance of 15 mm from the end into the depth of the cabinet. This distance ensures that the doors will stand in a strictly vertical position without tilting.

Door installation

The next step is to install the doors, but first you need to figure out the pattern on them (if there is one). The first step is to install the door on the rear slots. To do this you need to carefully insert top part into the rear upper groove, squeeze out the spring-loaded lower wheels and place them on the lower rear slot. If the cabinet design includes more than two doors, it is necessary to install the second door on the rear rails in the same way. The outer door is installed last.

Door adjustment

Now your task is to adjust the doors correctly. For these purposes, there are holes and adjusting screws for a 5-point hexagon at the bottom of the doors on both sides.

Using an L-shaped wrench, turn the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Pay attention to how the gap between the door and the sidewall changes - the smaller its width, the better.

After adjusting the doors, you need to set the stoppers correctly. They are designed to keep the doors stationary when closed. Align them so that the wheel fits exactly onto the stopper, and the end of the door does not reach the wall by about a millimeter. When there is more than one door, the outer latches are adjusted first, and then the rest relative to them.

Buffer fleece tape must be applied to the side ends of the adjusted doors (on both sides). This tape helps prevent doors from colliding with each other, as well as preventing damage to the chipboard. Sometimes, after filling the closet with things, the structure becomes slightly deformed, after which the doors need to be re-adjusted.

First you need to make sure that all work on leveling the walls, floors, finishing (including installing the apron), electrical wiring, connecting sockets and water supply is completed. Finish listed species It will be very difficult to work with an already installed kitchen cabinet.

Before you collect Kitchen Cabinet, take care to prepare the necessary tools:

a hammer drill, a drill with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm, a drill (and an adapter for it) and corresponding drills;

screwdriver (required!);

a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal (to saw off the tabletop);

hex wrench;

tools: square and level, tape measure, hammer, pliers and cutter knife.

Advice!You can borrow the missing items from someone, but it is better to purchase these tools yourself so that you can use them if necessary. A screwdriver and a hammer drill are useful in every home.

In order to assemble a kitchen cabinet, you should also prepare various fasteners:

furniture nails;

euroscrews;

fastening strip (rail) for hanging;

silicone based sealant;

ties that fasten the sections together;

self-tapping screws: 15–16 mm for fittings and 70 mm for hanging cabinets;

corners, dowels, anchor bolts(usually included with the headset);

conductor for dowels (preferably).

If you have instructions that tell you how to assemble the cabinet, study it carefully. It should describe (or draw) and number the parts of the headset, and also define the assembly sequence. Then you need to check the integrity of the package and arrange all the available elements. Because today almost everything kitchen sets consist of modules, the process of assembling a cabinet is reminiscent of working with a construction set.

Usually they start assembling a kitchen cabinet from the bottom: first they install the lower cabinets, then the countertop, then they form and hang the upper modules, draw markings on the wall, and then install and hang the modules.

What is the algorithm for installing kitchen cabinet parts? Do you need to assemble the lower sections first or, conversely, the upper ones? You can install in these two ways. There are craftsmen who begin the installation process from the upper modules so that the lower cabinets do not interfere with work.

Please note that the upper cabinets are installed without fronts, so their installation will be easier. Plus, in this way you can identify the gaps between the facades directly on the wall.

If you decide to assemble the kitchen yourself, it is better to start from the bottom tier. Standard cabinets are divided depending on the type of construction, each of which has its own characteristics.

So, the decision was made to assemble the kitchen, starting with the lower modules.

First of all, we connect the bottom to the side walls using Euroscrews, which are included in the kit.

We are installing the top strips, on which we will then lay the tabletop. Then we measure the diagonals of the cabinet using a tape measure. If their length differs by no more than 1.5–3 mm, we continue the work process.

We secure the back wall made of fairly thin fiberboard using small nails or a construction stapler. To ensure reliable fastening, monitor the step frequency (it should not exceed 8–10 mm).

We install the legs on the lower part of the cabinet, securing them with self-tapping screws.

We install hinges in pre-made nests and secure them with self-tapping screws, then attach the lower facades to the hinges.

After installing the cabinet in a vertical position, you need to align the doors using the adjusting screws on the hinges.

If you managed to assemble the set, at the end you need to install the handles.

Drawers are easier to assemble using a slightly different technology.

First, you need to make markings on the side walls to install metal guides.

In accordance with the markings, we secure the guides, and then connect the side walls with the bottom and upper slats.

We assemble the retractable elements by installing the mechanisms on their side surfaces.

Note! The bottom of such boxes is the weakest point. It is best to fasten it using a construction stapler with a step frequency of 5–8 mm.

We equip the front parts of the drawers with handles.

This element is the easiest to assemble.

First you need to assemble the “cabinet box” by connecting the bottom, top and side walls using Euroscrews.

We install the hinges in the sockets and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Advice! Do not rush to hang the doors, this will make it difficult to install the cabinets on the wall.

Last step– fastening of suspensions. If everything worked out, feel free to proceed with installing the kitchen cabinet.

We begin the installation process by installing the upper part of the structure, since the assembled lower cabinet with the already installed countertop can make it difficult to install wall-mounted modules.

We apply markings to the wall to secure the wall cabinets.

We measure the height of the tabletop and add from 50 to 60 cm to the resulting value, depending on our height. This way we get the height of the bottom edge of the wall cabinets.

From this line we measure the distance to the attachment point wall cabinet and draw another line. This is where we will fix the fasteners.

Advice! If your headset has corner cupboard, you should start assembling the upper part with it, and after installing it, begin installing the remaining elements.

After applying the markings, you can begin installing the fasteners.

If we hang cabinets on hinge fastenings, we need to drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and hammer plastic dowels into them.

Then we install locking screws with hooks at the ends into the dowels and then hang the cabinets.

Another way is to hang the elements on a metal rail. To do this, specially shaped fasteners are attached to the modules themselves, which cling to a metal profile fixed to the wall (as in the photo).

This method is considered more reliable, so it is better to use it if possible; besides, the cost of the tire cannot be called high.

After installing the modules, you can hang the fronts and align them using the adjustment screws.

The floor part is a little easier to assemble than the rest.

First, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a thin blade, we cut holes in the back walls of the cabinets for communications. We treat the edges of the cuts with silicone-based sealant to protect the cabinet from getting wet and deforming.

We attach the cabinet to the place intended for it, level it, then connect it with the neighboring cabinets using furniture ties.

After installing all the cabinets, we install the tabletop.

If the tabletop does not fit, we cut its panel and install a protective end cap.

Note! The countertop must be installed in such a way that the gap between it and the kitchen wall is at least 5 mm (to avoid deformation).

How to assemble the tabletop:

We lower the tabletop onto the cabinets and make markings on its lower surface where the sink is installed.

We remove the countertop and, placing it on a table or workbench, cut out a hole for the sink. This can be done by drilling several holes using a drill and connecting them with a jigsaw.

We install and secure the sink on the countertop, then treat the joint with silicone sealant.

We install a countertop with a fixed sink on kitchen cabinets, after which we align it horizontally and plane, and then fix it on the kitchen modules. To do this you can take special fasteners or simply drive the spikes on the tabletop into sockets drilled in the walls of the modules.

The joint between the countertop and the wall can be disguised using a special plinth.

So we managed to assemble the kitchen cabinet. Now you can connect the sink to the water supply and sewerage system, place household appliances and use the kitchen as normal.

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Furnishing the home is the final step that combines all renovation and design stages. Modern furniture should combine several important qualities: operational functionality, appearance as such, and compliance with the overall design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are undeniable, and for such designer styles, like minimalism, urban, hi-tech and completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for making your own wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of modern concept wardrobe with compartment door opening system.

Advantages
Ergonomics	Standard designs require “blind” areas for opening. In coupe systems, doors move in one plane along guides when opening and closing. Significantly saved space.
Capacity	The ability to arbitrarily configure the internal space (filling), which determines the capacity. The only requirement is ergonomic feasibility.
Versatility	Fits into any interior. Various ways design and finishing allow you to install a wardrobe in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, etc.
Functionality	Inside, unlike ordinary cabinets, you can store large items and household appliances. Embed various devices- ironing board, workbench, tabletop, etc.
Ideal solution for narrow spaces	For narrow aisles and corridors, a sliding wardrobe is often the only solution. Only it can be placed in such places and used comfortably.
Zoning	Dual functionality. Using such furniture, you can easily zone a room, that is, it can also serve as a partition.
Variety of designs	No restrictions on internal content. A large number of materials for the manufacture of facades, which allows you to realize any design idea.
Using a mirror	You can install a mirror on the facade. This will improve the functionality of the room and visually expand the space.
Reliability during operation	Doors that move along guides will last much longer than doors that open on hinges.

There are significantly fewer disadvantages, but they are there:

Flaws
Failure of the sliding system	This only happens if you purchase a low-quality sliding system.
Need for additional lighting	If the dimensions are large, additional lighting will be required; it significantly increases operational comfort.
The need to clean the guides	Over time, the lower guides become clogged, which can interfere with the movement of the roller. Therefore, sometimes you have to clean the grooves of the guides.
The mirror gets dirty quickly	If a mirror is used in the decoration, then it will have to be washed frequently to remove stains and hand marks.
No possibility of rearrangement	When designing, dimensions are related to specific place cabinet location. Not suitable for those who like frequent rearrangements.

Varieties by shape

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

built-in;
free-standing;
corner;
diagonal-angular.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Built-in

When constructing such a cabinet there is no top, back wall and base. Only partitions are manufactured. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used for fixation.

This is a stationary structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

Has sides, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete separate piece of furniture. It can be moved and is not tied to any design elements.

Angular

Great solution for small apartments, where every meter is precious. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

Diagonal corner

This is a type of corner, but the facade does not follow the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with sliding door systems is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Material
	The most common and frequently used. Chipboard board, having a low price, is characterized by sufficient strength. A huge selection of textures, colors, patterns allows you to produce a façade for any design solutions. There is one, but significant, drawback - it is difficult to finely process. For this reason, mostly simple structures are made from chipboard or laminated chipboard.
	Eco-friendly material, easy to process. The variety of facade coatings is no less than that of chipboard. Practical and affordable material.
	Expensive option, but natural wood will last a long time. A magnificent decoration in any interior.

Types by design

Classification by design differences next:

built-in;
case.

Built-in . There is no need for top, bottom or sides. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. For manufacturing, you can use plasterboard, which will reduce total costs on the product.

Corpus . The main difference from a regular cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move it. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. The downside is the increased consumption of materials, since the side, bottom and top walls, and the rear part are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Let's look at the main structural elements wardrobe

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

Manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems make it possible to produce a sash up to 120 cm wide;
The width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
The choice is influenced by personal preferences. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions of use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

profile material;
principle of extension.

To manufacture the profile of the moving system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is selected, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures cheaper, but in most cases preference is given to aluminum.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-mounted and top-hung. In the lower-support type, the door with rollers moves along a rail. In the top-hung system, its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment/house. Designs are made from ceiling to floor, as well as smaller heights.

The standard length of the material used for the walls is 270 cm. A standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost identical dimensions make it possible not to saw or build up structural elements.

For ceilings higher than 270 mm (if you want to have a floor-to-ceiling closet) there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. Secondly, the mezzanine is assembled. Sheets can be joined using high-precision equipment from companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the everyday usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended figure is 60–70 cm. Usually in the closet there is a rod for hangers, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate contact between the inner surface of the door and clothes hung on hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. The shelves should not be made deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get “under the wall” when placing things.

The dimensions of the premises do not always allow the installation of furniture with the maximum recommended shelf depth. But there are also restrictions on the minimum depth. The best option may be 40 cm deep. Considering that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide. As an option, installation hanging rod(bars), perpendicular to the doors and the rear wall, in this case, the width of the hangers placed is not limited.

This solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a “narrow” design is an ideal solution for small apartments.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the location of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between shelves is 250–350 mm. The selection rule is simple: greater depth of shelves means greater distance between them, less depth means less distance. This dependence is associated with ease of access to stacks of linen located deep in the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the size of the things intended to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothing placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest item. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

shirts - up to 100 cm;
jackets - up to 110 cm;
long clothes - up to 130 cm;
raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

Video:

Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various project options and furniture assembly technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The picture shows universal scheme breakdown into storage areas for various things:

When purchasing a finished product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-production will allow maximum consideration of dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which will ultimately ensure maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

*Zoning*
	Shelves are one of the main filling elements. They can be stationary and retractable, solid and ventilated, half and full depth, etc.
	Drawers are the second most important element of the cabinet.
	Hanging rod - necessary for clothes on hangers. The material used varies, most often metal.
	Convenient storage baskets. All things are clearly visible in them, which creates a certain convenience.
	This device is called a trouser. Pants are always ironed and ready to wear.
	A bar (hanger) for storing ties is convenient to choose, does not wrinkle, and proper suspension prevents them from changing shape.
	Convenient placement of belts, as an alternative - storage on a shelf in rolls.
	Compact and convenient storage underwear.
	Placing bed linen, towels, and some clothes in piles on shelves.
	A significant part of the internal volume is allocated for storing blouses, light blazers, and short sundresses. A pipe with hangers is installed in the opening. You can make several such sections - for short and long things.
	Department for accessories - bracelets, watches, glasses, etc. It is recommended to store these items in drawers. Inside, the space can be divided into separate cells.
	Shelves for storing shoes. In the upper (mezzanine) part you can place shoes in boxes.
	Hooks, hangers, carabiners, rings and other accessories for bags.
Travel suitcases	Place rarely used (once a year during vacation) suitcases on the far (top) shelves or mezzanine.
	One of the options for bed linen. Shelf width up to 80 cm, height up to 60 cm.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

retractable and stationary shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). They can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. Rarely used and bulky items are stored on them;
Barbells are needed for hangers. Mounted along the width of the cabinet;
pantographs or special “furniture elevators”. Thanks to them, clothes are stored at the required level and can be easily pulled out using a special rod. They can be electrical or mechanical;
Baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

Facades

Thought out to the smallest detail internal filling will be in sharp dissonance with poorly chosen facades. It is the facades that give the entire cabinet a special finished look. Let's consider several options for their implementation.

Mirror

A mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. Can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance troubles - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if the family has small children.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and designs, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, the inside of the mirror is covered with shockproof (armor) film. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not fly away.

Glass

Glass is no less popular than mirror; facades are equipped with unbreakable ones. Frosted glass with a pattern is mainly used. Vertical and horizontal stripes that divide the canvas into separate squares look original.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, texture - from matte to bright glossy.

On MDF and Chipboard facades You can apply photo printing.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for making facades.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Gluing the edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the slab. Sequence of operations performed:

*Instructions for gluing the edge to the end of the workpieces*
	If you don’t have an assistant, you can use a simple trick. You will need a small box and a quick-release clamp. The clamp presses the board to the box, ensuring the stability of the workpiece and the convenience of gluing the edge tape.
	One side of the edge tape has an adhesive surface. Warm up to high temperature it is easy to glue to the workpiece.
	Cut the edge to the required length. Leave a margin of 1 cm at the edges. After gluing, you can cut it with ordinary scissors.
	For gluing, set the position of the iron temperature sensor to “2”.
	For safety reasons, wear left hand two gloves. There should be no pellets on the palm.
	Use the iron to move along the edge tape, and hold it with your left hand (flat).
	We move the iron in the opposite direction, at the same time using a gloved hand we firmly press (smooth) the edge tape.
	Use your hand to smooth the edge a few more times.
	Using a special roller. Iron on the edge tape and then roll it with a roller. Very comfortably.
	Cooled tape sharp knife Carefully cut off the remains from the end.
	We get a cut like this.
	We repeat the procedure for all ends of the workpiece. We measure the tape with a margin of 1 centimeter, from each edge.
	Glue it with an iron and smooth it out.
	Cut off the cooled edge. The edge on the adjacent edge has already been glued; we make the cut very carefully.
	We cut off the longitudinal remains of the protruding edge on all sides.
	Result. We glue the edges of the remaining blanks with edge tape.
	All cuts are sanded with a special whetstone. The inside of it is filled with foam rubber, the outside is filled with fine-grained abrasive.
	Grinding of cuts is done only with longitudinal movements.

The processing of the main elements is carried out similarly.

Assembly

According to the project, the details are cut out. It is better to do this operation in a workshop on a special formatting machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

*Frame assembly instructions*
	To work, you will need to assemble an additional device consisting of a metal strip and two pieces of board connected at an angle. It turns out a corner with a metal guide. You will also need two quick-release clamps. Using this device it is very convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
	We check with a square - it should be 90˚.
	Set aside 70 mm from the top edge.
	In the example, a 16 mm slab is used, therefore, it is necessary to retreat 9 mm from the edge. Why not 8 mm? Because the plate protrudes 1 mm beyond the edge, forming a small side. The middle of the end of the adjacent plate is at a distance of 9 mm.
	Drilling mark.
	A similar mark is placed below.
	Using a drill, we make holes for the fasteners.
	A special drill replaces three at once. It allows you to make the main hole, the collar and chamfer in one operation.
	Drilling.
	We tighten the confirmation with a screwdriver.
	Having secured the sidewall, we mark the installation locations for the shelves according to the design.
	Next, using a square, place marks on both sides under the holes for attaching the shelves.
	Markings along which holes for confirmations will be drilled.
	The device assembled at the beginning of work is convenient to use for fastening shelves. Using a tape measure, measure 1/2 the thickness of the slab. The thickness of the plate is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the mark.
	At this level we install the shelf using quick-release clamps.
	Here you can clearly see that the mark is in the middle of the end of the workpiece. Everything is ready for drilling.
	Let's drill.
	We tighten the confirmations.
	We install the remaining shelves in the same way.
	We install the cross member. And we fasten each shelf with confirmations.
	Having fixed the cross member quick clamp, we twist it with confirmations from above and below, then we secure each shelf.
	So it's going Bottom part wardrobe We clamp the strip from the slab with a clamp and secure it at the end with a confirmat.
	We drill shallow holes from below for installing furniture legs.
	We tighten the metal sleeve with external and internal threads.
	Using a hexagon, tighten (recess) to the required position.
	We screw the leg with the plastic support into the sleeve. Thanks to this, the furniture can be moved and leveled.
	Two parts support leg assembly.
	After assembling the cabinet, a fiberboard sheet is attached to its back side with ordinary nails.
	We start fixing the fiberboard from the top. By tilting the cabinet from side to side, we achieve a 90˚ angle between the side panel and the top bar. We nail the sides and bottom of the fiberboard sheet.
	During assembly, no such plastic furniture corners were used. Why? The use of confirmat is much more practical, since it is screwed into the slab a few centimeters and reliably connects the structure, giving it additional rigidity.
	We close the confirmation hats with a decorative cap.

Using the same operating sequence, you can assemble a wardrobe of any configuration.

Video:

Making doors

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a roller system. You should order it from a company that professionally deals with such systems. Specialized software Based on the given dimensions, it will calculate all the elements and issue a complete specification for assembly. Mirrors or slabs from other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

Elements for sliding system




	Vertical posts/handles for the side parts of the door.
	Sealing rubber for the mirror.
	Self-adhesive brush to soften the impact of doors when opening/closing.


	Brackets for fixing doors in extreme positions.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminum. All metal components must be coated protective film, protecting them from scratches during transportation.

Assembling the sliding system

Let's consider step by step assembly door leaf. In our example there will be two mirror doors.

Ready wardrobe

*Door assembly instructions*
	The door is located in a horizontal position and provides free access from all sides.
	In the upper part of the vertical post, which also serves as the door handle, we drill two mounting holes.
	The lower one has a diameter of 6.5 mm.
	The top hole is 10 mm. The upper door profile and the roller will be attached through it.
	The lower part of the same vertical profile. The upper hole is 10 mm, the lower one is 6.5 mm. The distance from the edge of the first hole is 7 mm, the second is 43 mm. The lower roller will be attached closer to the edge. The second hole is for the screw connecting to the profile.
*Profile installation*	We fix the rubber seal on top with a profile, carefully inserting it.
	We perform the procedure sequentially on all faces. We do not cut off the rubber seal at the corner, but continuously lay it along the entire perimeter.
Do not tighten it all the way	This screw does not tighten completely. Later the upper rollers will be installed into it.
	Install the upper rollers and tighten the screw until it stops.
	Rubber seal installed at the bottom of the door.
*The screw with the top roller is also tightened*	At the top we attach the second pair of rollers.
	Install the lower roller. We press the spring on the roller and carefully insert it into the hole, securing it with a screw.
	The screw is tightened with a hexagon.	Wardrobe with first door installed.
	We assemble and install the second door in the same sequence.

Additionally, we install auxiliary elements - a pipe for hangers, etc.

Video:

In the end it should look like this

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

Video:

Photo

Hello again. Today we will assemble our wardrobe, we will do this according to the instructions below.

So, we took the parts from the cut. We didn’t want to glue the edge ourselves, so we ordered gluing there, especially since the price of gluing is not that high.

We also purchased all the necessary fittings for the cabinet and the necessary fasteners.

The floor turned out to be not entirely level, so the cabinet had to be built not on a plinth, but on adjustable legs; accordingly, the detailing was slightly altered.

The introductory part is finished, let's start assembling.

Wardrobe assembly instructions

Our procedure for assembling the wardrobe will be as follows.

You need to start assembling from the bottom of the cabinet, namely by assembling the base and installing the legs.

We take a part called the bottom and mark its lower side for installing the base and legs as shown in the diagram below:

The plinth can be secured to the bottom using mini fixes (eccentrics, rasteks - whoever calls them), confirmats or ordinary plastic corners.

Since this will still be an invisible area, and the cabinet will not stand on a plinth, but on legs, I decided to secure the plinth using plastic corners. The legs were secured with 3.5*30 screws.

Just when you screw the legs, don’t overdo it (you can over-tighten it, and the sharp part of the screw will come out from the back side).

We attach the four parts of the base to each other using confirmations. For convenience, take yourself a corner clamp. You can use it.

Do not twist the front plinth with corners, as To adjust the legs you will have to remove it.

We will attach the sides to the bottom and roof with minifixes. They are great for fastening perpendicular parts, and they also manage to completely hide the fastener.

If space allows, it is convenient to assemble the sliding wardrobe lying on the front part and fasten it using confirmations. But since I didn’t have any free space in my room, I had to assemble it standing up and use eccentrics (rastexes, minifixes) as fasteners.

On the bottom and roof of the cabinet (from the inside) we mark holes for installing the minifix rod.

Before installing the sides, using a level, the bottom of the wardrobe must be leveled as evenly as possible. Simply lean the level and adjust the legs to the maximum horizontal position.

Now you need to mark the sidewalls, the holes should exactly coincide with the installed rods on the bottom and roof. In the sidewalls you will need to do two different drillings in two different planes.

The first hole is made for a metal eccentric, which will tighten the rod; it is made in inside sidewalls, with a special 15mm cutter, at a distance from the edge of the end to the center of 34mm (this is if the rod has a total length of 44mm, like mine).

In general, when fitting a part onto a rod, its head should protrude 6 mm. If this is your first time installing minifixes, practice better on rough parts, so you will feel more confident when assembling.

The second hole is made at the end of the part, with a 6-6.5 mm drill, strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

For a more detailed understanding of this assembly step, you can use our materials on.

When you have made all the necessary holes, do not rush to install the sides and roof right away.
To give the structure initial rigidity, immediately assemble the central partition with the upper shelf (we fasten it with confirmations).
At the next stage, we need to place the sidewalls, the rear wall of the console and the assembled T-shaped partition on the lower rods, tighten them with eccentrics, and secure the upper shelf to the sidewalls (with confirms). Use an angle clamp for support.
Next, we attach the roof and check the verticality using a level.
If everything is fine, to provide additional rigidity, we install additional shelves using confirmats.
Now, using 3.5*16 screws, we fasten the back wall of the fiberboard. We start from the two upper corners, and after perfect alignment, we begin to screw in screws throughout the box, in increments of 15-20mm. The fiberboard should also be secured to the central partition and the top shelf.

The hardest part of the job is finished. We put the cabinet in its place, once again check the position of the cabinet by level and proceed to installing shelves, hangers and drawers.

Shelves can be made either rigid (secured with confirmations) or removable (on shelf holders).

To have fewer plugs for holes on the visible side of the wardrobe, I decided to install the shelves on shelf holders.

Everything is simple here. We mark the required height on the sidewall, use a 4.5-5 mm drill to make a non-through hole, up to 8 mm deep, and hammer the shelf holder into it.

Many people are familiar with the eternal problem of lack of space: everything is always out of place, the purchased cabinets are insufficient or do not fit. If you are facing these difficulties, it is time to customize the furniture for your room so that it perfectly suits your personal needs and requirements. Making furniture to order is too expensive, but you can assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In this article we will give you detailed instructions with drawings and assembly diagrams.

The main housing in Russia is small Khrushchev-type apartments, in which every square meter counts. Old Soviet wardrobes are very bulky and roomy - there are useless legs on the bottom, a dust collector on top and empty space, which is usually filled with a mezzanine. Our homemade wardrobe is free of these disadvantages, because it is located either in a niche or the entire height of the room, thus using every centimeter of space.

The main advantage is spaciousness and compactness. The useful volume of space is 2.5 times greater than that of conventional furniture.
Sliding doors are why we love sliding wardrobes. They are very practical and do not take up much space.
Beautiful design - the ability to make doors from a mirror, frosted glass, apply sandblasting patterns, stickers and use any other material to decorate sliding doors.
Possibility to zone a room using a partition from a closet. We also note that the use of full-length mirrors will have a good effect on the space of the room, making it larger and brighter.

The main disadvantage is the price: if you buy a wardrobe to order or in a store, it will not cost you at all. However, it is quite possible to make a wardrobe with your own hands, the main thing is not to panic and follow the planned work plan.

Cabinet design

Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to finally decide on its drawing and location. Everything is individual here, and there can be no specific advice, just find a good place for the closet. This could be a closet, a niche in the wall, or just a corner in the room.

If free space is not limited, then choose the size of the cabinet according to the golden ratio rule, according to which the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.

Thus, if your ceiling is 2.5 m high, then it would be optimal to choose a cabinet length of 154 cm (250/1.62=154.3). The depth of standard furniture parts is usually 60 cm; there is no need to make it more, otherwise it will be inconvenient to get distant things from the upper shelves. Also note that all internal parts must be at least 10 cm narrower due to the width of the doors.

When you decide on the installation location, you need to draw up drawings. Make a detailed diagram of the cabinet and all shelves with dimensions on paper or on the computer (choose the Basic Cabinet or Excel program). Specialized programs will be able to give you with one button the number and dimensions of the required parts for cutting, which is very convenient.

When modeling interior shelves, you can’t do without your significant other, otherwise you’ll have to redo everything later. Modeling is one of the most important stages, which should be devoted to a separate topic, so now we will only briefly present our sliding wardrobe project with dimensions.

Drawing of a built-in wardrobe in a niche

This scheme The wardrobe is designed to be created in a closet with a beam at the top. Therefore, mirrored doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.

Filling

When creating shelves, we will use ordinary laminated chipboards light color. To fasten them we will use metal corners and self-tapping screws.

After calculating the materials for the cabinet, we bought necessary details and ordered cutting and edge processing on site:

3 parts 150x60 cm (horizontal);
2 parts 200x60 cm (vertical for walls);
1 vertical partition 135x60 cm;
3 vertical partitions for shelf compartments 32.5x60 cm;
1 horizontal sheet 150x30 cm for the shelf behind the beam;
3 partitions for a shelf behind a beam 30x40 cm.

The main thing here is not to make mistakes in the calculations, so before ordering parts, carefully study the drawing and calculate all the gaps.

Build process

Now about how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands.

First, we laid the 150x60 piece on the floor and attached two side boards to it. By the way, if you have a plinth, it is better to remove it, otherwise you will have to cut the walls at an angle. The fastening took place using dowels to the wall and metal corners to the bottom board using self-tapping screws. Some people use plastic furniture corners for shelves, but they are not so reliable: a child will stand on the shelf and it will collapse.
Then we assembled the internal shelves separately: we connected 2 horizontal boards 150x60 (which will be above the bar) with vertical part 135x60 and three small transverse compartments 32.5x60.
The finished compartments were secured to the cabinet in the same way, using corners and screws. If you have access to the side walls, you can use a Euroscrew for fastening - a popular furniture fasteners which is used for tables and shelves.
Now all that's left to do is upper shelves, we also cooked them separately outside. We attached three vertical partitions 30x40 every 50 centimeters to a horizontal board 150x30.

Note! If you are making a cabinet with a full-length top lid, you may have problems with its fastening. In this case, leave the required height so that you can climb up with a hexagon from above or attach the cover to the corners from the inside.

As a result, we got 2 large compartments for hangers, where everything will fit outerwear, shirts, dresses, etc. Then there is 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side is divided into 3 small compartments. Above there is one wide shelf, which is divided into 3 narrow compartments against the wall. And at the very top there is a shelf for unnecessary things. Everything is shown in the photo below.

Door installation

Now about the most difficult part - the wardrobe. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is better to buy them after assembling the frame. You can watch a video about assembling a mirror door from profiles:

It is not recommended to make the width of sliding doors more than 1 meter, so if the length of the cabinet is 154 cm, divide it in half: each door, roughly speaking, is 77 cm + an overlap of 2-4 cm so that there is no gap.

Calculation of wardrobe doors

Regarding the height of the doors, it is important to consider the height of the lining and wheels.

For example:

250 centimeters - ceiling height (or opening);
1.6 cm - thickness of laminated chipboard linings on top and bottom;
The gap at the top and bottom is 1.5 cm for the wheels;

Total: 250-1.6-1.6-1.5-1.5 = 243.8 cm - the height of our doors. You should have side handle profiles of this height. The clearance figures may vary, it all depends on the profiles used, so read the instructions from their manufacturer.

Sliding door design

- Since we are attaching the doors to the widened doorway of the pantry, we need to make a laminated chipboard gasket around the perimeter.
- Now let's cut the required length of the door guides. They should be equal to the width of the cabinet inside and fit freely between the walls. They must be secured strictly level and parallel to each other. First, we attach the upper rail to self-tapping screws with a press washer, then the lower one. Be sure to insert the stoppers into the bottom track when the doors are closed.

When the guides are level, you can insert the door. The far door is first inserted into the top track and then lifted to fit into the bottom. The front door is inserted in the same way - first insert the top, then the bottom.
To adjust the doors, tighten the special bolt at the bottom with a hex key. If you tighten the bolt, the door will rise, if you unscrew it, it will lower. If the doors are parallel and adjusted, then everything will run like clockwork, but if they are installed incorrectly, then sometimes the upper rollers can pop out.
At this point, the installation of the wardrobe is completed; now you can hang hooks, secure the hanging rod and, if necessary, add drawers.

To finally figure out how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, the video lesson will tell you all the details during installation:

Conclusion

By doing all the work yourself, you will save 2-3 times more money than ordering a similar cabinet in a store, and you can also make it several times faster if desired. The main thing is to be careful and calculate every action before starting work. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

The sliding wardrobe in the domestic market has gained a leading position among cabinets of any design. This type of furniture has become a godsend for modern interior. It allows rational use indoors free space. The popularity of furniture is explained by a number of advantages: firstly, it is impeccable versatility, secondly, having a compact size, the cabinet has excellent capacity, thirdly, it has a long service life and high quality workmanship. In the manufacture of furniture, only environmentally friendly natural materials and reliable fittings are used. Interesting design solutions allow you to create attractive furniture, emphasizing its individual style. Such positive characteristics make this cabinet ideal for a modern interior. It will fit even into a small room. This article will tell you how to properly assemble a wardrobe.

Tools for work

Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to prepare the tools for assembly. For this you will need:

Level and tape measure.
Glue for fixing the pile.
Drill for making holes in drywall or wood surfaces, screwing in self-tapping screws.
A hacksaw for metal and wood for adjusting cabinet elements to the appropriate dimensions.
Hammer for driving in dowels.
Hammer for making holes in concrete and brick.
Self-tapping screws and dowels.

These tools will become real helpers in your work.

Main stages of the assembly process

To make it easier and faster to navigate the question of how to assemble a wardrobe, an assembly diagram is included in the package of the purchased product. You should check for its presence. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the quality of each element, strip and parts, make sure there are no cracks, swelling or other defects. When transporting the set, precautions must be taken: the furniture must be firmly secured in transport, and a flat road should be chosen for transportation.

First stage. Installation location and marking.

Before assembling the wardrobe, it is important to understand the assembly algorithm. If it is planned that the furniture will take up space in the corner of the room, then the total length of the set is measured from it. To do this, you need to measure the length of the mezzanine. Next, a vertical line is drawn that will display the boundaries of the future structure. To get a straight line, you need to make several marks.

After this, you should measure a vertical line. At its level, a bar will be placed in the same position, separating the compartment for things with horizontal shelves from the compartment where the hangers are located. To do this, you need to measure the perimeter of the ceiling and measure the distance from the right or left border of the cabinet. Next, the height of the shelves, the edge of the future structure and the vertical stand are measured on two vertical lines.

Second phase. Installation

The kit always includes instructions on how to assemble the wardrobe. After reading it carefully, you can carry out the second stage of work - installation
fastenings

Fasteners are attached to the drawn lines, and marks are made using a pencil for future holes where dowels are driven. The fastenings are secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Since the main task is the correct assembly of furniture, you should know that if profiles are used to frame the edges of some elements, it is more rational to use them at the next stage.

Stage three. Fastening a vertical rack, mezzanine, shelves, false panel and side wall

Since you have to assemble the wardrobe yourself, you should be very careful at every stage. The vertical stand is fixed with screws to the fastenings. In order to install the mezzanine, you need to draw a horizontal line with a pencil where it will be located. A hole is drilled on this line to secure the parts. After that, self-tapping screws and dowels are driven in there, the fasteners are mounted on the wall, and a mezzanine is installed on them, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.

The distance from the floor surface to the ceiling is measured with maximum accuracy. The side wall is adjusted to the size of the main structure and securely fixed with fasteners.

Then marks are made on the side wall and vertical stand of the cabinet. In these places, two fasteners are mounted, after which you can install the shelves, securing them with self-tapping screws.

Where there will be hangers, you should hang the tube for them, having previously secured them with appropriate fasteners. The tube is cut to the required size, inserted and also secured.

After this, marks are made with a pencil at the mounting points on the wall surface. A hole is drilled in each false panel into which dowels are driven. Then they can be attached to the marked places with self-tapping screws.

Fourth stage. Door assembly

Before assembling the wardrobe doors, it is necessary to determine the length of the guides and adjust them to the appropriate size. They are attached to false panels on the ceiling and floor using self-tapping screws. After assembling the frame, work begins on installing the door. Each model has its own sliding system which has its own individual characteristics. For a cabinet, it is better to choose a system that does not require special equipment. When ordering the manufacture of a door from a specialized furniture company, you do not need to cut the sheets, attach them to the guides and adjust them according to the dimensions of the rails.

So, before assembling the wardrobe doors, you need to:

Attach the rails to the finished door. The rollers should move, so there is no need to tighten them too tightly.
Insert the door alternately into both guides: upper and lower.
After adjusting the angle and height of the inclination, glue the pile on the sides of the sliding door. This action will allow it to close and open quietly.
After installing the doors, you should make sure that they are easy to operate and do not creak, that the fittings are reliable and that the shelves are securely fastened.

After all stages of the work have been completed, you can call your family and friends to evaluate the result.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe

For people who do not have sufficient experience in making furniture with their own hands, the idea of assembling furniture may seem utopian. Many apartment owners place the structure in a niche in order to save space. It's pretty rational decision, especially in small spaces.

Before assembling a built-in wardrobe, you need to choose its type, since a niche is usually filled with two types of wardrobes: built-in and full-size. The first type is a built-in structure, the second type is a regular custom-made cabinet. If there is a niche in the room, it is better to use it for a wardrobe. This solution significantly saves room space and financial costs for installation work.

Before assembling the wardrobe, you should put the niche in order: remove switches, sockets, and cover the walls with wallpaper or paint; if desired, you can use plastic panels. After this, the material for the door is selected: mirror, decorative plastic or glass. Since the standard ceiling height is more than three meters, it is more convenient to place mezzanines on the upper part of the niche. The most commonly used doors are hinged or sliding doors. Sometimes they choose an accordion door.

The built-in wardrobe can be installed in whole or in part; it has no surfaces, but is equipped with necessary fittings: shelves, holders, racks, baskets, etc. These elements can be easily attached to the walls of the room and the cabinet can be used fully. The only drawback is that it cannot be moved.

When installing the door, be aware that the floor surface may be uneven. For this reason, you may need to adjust the wheels that move the doors. The wheels should not be adjusted very often as they may become unusable.

You can also put a cabinet wardrobe in a niche, which contains all the elements of the standard model: ceiling, floor, back wall and side panels.